On 12/15/2022 1:58 PM, Keith Nuttle wrote:
On 12/15/2022 11:47 AM, Leon wrote:
On 12/14/2022 2:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I need to make rabbets about 1/16" deep by about 3/8" wide in a bunch
of pieces of 1x3, likely poplar (to be decided by others). It's for a
stage set and need only pass the "30 foot" test, meaning, it will
look OK to the nearest audience member.
The 1x3s will be either 16" or 50" long. I have a 1/2" x 3/8"
rabbeting bit. So which of these is the better way to do it, with the
1x3 laying on the table:
https://flic.kr/p/2o5V6FE
or "standing up" against the fence:
https://flic.kr/p/2o5SKf4
Thanks in advance.
Greg Guarino
Either way works. But if the piece is with the wide side laying on
the table top, like the first pic, it will not tip. You should not
need feather boards.
I use feather boards whether I cut the rabbet with the board vertically
of horizontally. I thing the deciding factor is you intended use and
the size of the rabbet itself/
The rabbit is 1/16" deep and 3/8" wide. There is going to be little to
no resistance.
I'm not saying to not use feather boards ever, I was just responding to
the OP and the specifics he stated.
I do a lot of repetitive routes. Once I get the router set up, it
helps with the precision to use feather boards.
If there is a chance that the work could tilt or if it is warped, or
when cutting a grove in the center of a face, yes feather boards are
helpful. But cutting into the wide surface of a 1x3 with the wide side
down there is not much that can damage the cut. The only possibility
is that the work moves away from the fence/bit and you have to run it
through again.
While precision is not as critical with a rabbet, for decorative routing
is quite necessary. Especially if you are making something like a
picture frame and you want the routes to line up in the corners
I agree. But again, a 1/16" deep by 3/8" wide rabbit in, possibly
poplar, not necessary.
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