• =?UTF-8?Q?90=C2=B0_Hold_Downs_For_Table_Top?=

    From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jul 16 06:49:58 2022
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some
    type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that
    were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches
    should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width
    pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit. 4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is
    sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jul 16 09:57:07 2022
    On 7/16/2022 8:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that
    were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width
    pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.



    Food for thought. Why do you want to be able to detach the legs from
    the table?

    Yes it is heavy but how much weight do the legs actually add to the top?

    And it appears to be pretty short so I don't think the attached feet
    would pose any issue for going through door ways.

    Personally I would drill holes in through the bottom of the feet and use
    long lag screws to go into the bottom of the table.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Sat Jul 16 10:36:12 2022
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 10:57:16 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/16/2022 8:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches
    the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they
    extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.
    Food for thought. Why do you want to be able to detach the legs from
    the table?

    Because coming up with a cool method would be fun. ;-)

    I went to an architectural store and looked through all their window and door hardware. Nothing is really made to work at a right angle.

    I did find one window locking device that slid a small post into the jamb
    but the post was only about 1/2" long. Too short for my comfort..


    Yes it is heavy but how much weight do the legs actually add to the top?

    17 lbs


    And it appears to be pretty short so I don't think the attached feet
    would pose any issue for going through door ways.

    Tru dat.


    Personally I would drill holes in through the bottom of the feet and use
    long lag screws to go into the bottom of the table.

    Can't be done, at least not through the feet. Where the feet exist there is open space between the top of the legs and the bottom of the table. There
    is barely an inch of solid wood from the floor to the table.

    https://i.imgur.com/omdi13N.jpg

    I could go through the arches with a 10" lags but I feel that the closer I get to
    the center of the table, the less secure it will be. 10" of lag with less than 2"
    in the table, all near the center. If I'm going to go through that much trouble,
    I'll just make some wooden screw strips, finished to match, to replace the ugly L brackets. That would spread out the attachment points and look ok when someone is rolling on the floor playing with the dog. Brass screws, of course. ;-)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sat Jul 16 22:18:05 2022
    On Sat, 16 Jul 2022 06:49:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some >type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that
    were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches >should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width
    pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit. >4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than >enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches >the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they >extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is >sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.

    Festool knock-down connectors?

    I've also seen a completely hidden connector that uses a magnetic
    "key" on a drill. Place the key near the connector and turn on the
    drill. The magnet turns a similar rotating collar in the connector to close/release the connector. Looked cool but was rather expensive. I
    can't find it now, though.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sat Jul 16 22:09:01 2022
    On Sat, 16 Jul 2022 06:49:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some >type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that
    were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches >should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width
    pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit. >4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than >enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches >the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they >extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is >sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.

    I have used these hanging shelves on a wall, but recessed into the top
    or the legs with an opposing screw you could twist the top on no
    hardware to be seen. Set up is going to be interesting maybe even
    challenging.

    https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fittings-select-either-single-or-double

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jul 16 20:58:52 2022
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 11:09:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 16 Jul 2022 06:49:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some >type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that >were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches >should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width >pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than >enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches
    the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they
    extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is >sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.
    I have used these hanging shelves on a wall, but recessed into the top
    or the legs with an opposing screw you could twist the top on no
    hardware to be seen. Set up is going to be interesting maybe even challenging.

    https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fittings-select-either-single-or-double

    That is an interesting idea. Of course, no one but me (and you) will know
    how to get the table apart. ;-)

    But the idea of some type of "twist and lock" fitting sounds intriguing. I'm going to let that simmer for a day or two while the finish cures.

    Thanks!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Brian Welch@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 17 03:59:25 2022
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 11:58:55 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 11:09:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 16 Jul 2022 06:49:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some >type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that >were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches >should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width >pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than >enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches
    the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they
    extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is >sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.
    I have used these hanging shelves on a wall, but recessed into the top
    or the legs with an opposing screw you could twist the top on no
    hardware to be seen. Set up is going to be interesting maybe even challenging.

    https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fittings-select-either-single-or-double
    That is an interesting idea. Of course, no one but me (and you) will know
    how to get the table apart. ;-)

    But the idea of some type of "twist and lock" fitting sounds intriguing. I'm going to let that simmer for a day or two while the finish cures.

    Thanks!
    Your original ideas could be implemented, if you were to add small riser blocks, or pieces of angle, on the underside that would give you 2 aligning vertical planes...
    I do like the keyhole/twist idea...very clever...

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 17 13:41:00 2022
    On 7/16/2022 12:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 10:57:16 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/16/2022 8:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some >>> type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that
    were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches
    should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width
    pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than >>> enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches
    the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they
    extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is
    sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle. >>>
    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.
    Food for thought. Why do you want to be able to detach the legs from
    the table?

    Because coming up with a cool method would be fun. ;-)

    I went to an architectural store and looked through all their window and door hardware. Nothing is really made to work at a right angle.

    I did find one window locking device that slid a small post into the jamb
    but the post was only about 1/2" long. Too short for my comfort..


    Yes it is heavy but how much weight do the legs actually add to the top?

    17 lbs


    And it appears to be pretty short so I don't think the attached feet
    would pose any issue for going through door ways.

    Tru dat.


    Personally I would drill holes in through the bottom of the feet and use
    long lag screws to go into the bottom of the table.

    Can't be done, at least not through the feet. Where the feet exist there is open space between the top of the legs and the bottom of the table. There
    is barely an inch of solid wood from the floor to the table.

    https://i.imgur.com/omdi13N.jpg

    Yes that would be dicey.




    I could go through the arches with a 10" lags but I feel that the closer I get to
    the center of the table, the less secure it will be. 10" of lag with less than 2"
    in the table, all near the center. If I'm going to go through that much trouble,
    I'll just make some wooden screw strips, finished to match, to replace the ugly
    L brackets. That would spread out the attachment points and look ok when someone is rolling on the floor playing with the dog. Brass screws, of course. ;-)


    Rare earth magnets!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Sun Jul 17 16:45:12 2022
    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 2:41:09 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/16/2022 12:36 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 10:57:16 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/16/2022 8:49 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some
    type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that >>> were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches >>> should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base. >>>
    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width
    pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than >>> enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches
    the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they
    extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is >>> sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle. >>>
    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.
    Food for thought. Why do you want to be able to detach the legs from
    the table?

    Because coming up with a cool method would be fun. ;-)

    I went to an architectural store and looked through all their window and door
    hardware. Nothing is really made to work at a right angle.

    I did find one window locking device that slid a small post into the jamb but the post was only about 1/2" long. Too short for my comfort..


    Yes it is heavy but how much weight do the legs actually add to the top?

    17 lbs


    And it appears to be pretty short so I don't think the attached feet
    would pose any issue for going through door ways.

    Tru dat.


    Personally I would drill holes in through the bottom of the feet and use >> long lag screws to go into the bottom of the table.

    Can't be done, at least not through the feet. Where the feet exist there is open space between the top of the legs and the bottom of the table. There is barely an inch of solid wood from the floor to the table.

    https://i.imgur.com/omdi13N.jpg
    Yes that would be dicey.

    I could go through the arches with a 10" lags but I feel that the closer I get to
    the center of the table, the less secure it will be. 10" of lag with less than 2"
    in the table, all near the center. If I'm going to go through that much trouble,
    I'll just make some wooden screw strips, finished to match, to replace the ugly
    L brackets. That would spread out the attachment points and look ok when someone is rolling on the floor playing with the dog. Brass screws, of course. ;-)
    Rare earth magnets!

    Now that would be different!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Sonny@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 17 16:31:45 2022
    Make your own - Glue some blocks to the underside of the table, each side of the legs.... blocks with holes in them. Key the blocks to the legs with pegs/dowels.... maybe tapered dowels to be more easily extracted.

    Or some type of keyed application may be the easiest to figure out. Whichever kind of key, attach it with short string/leather to the table's bottom so the key doesn't get lost.

    Square headed dowels? .... similar to the decor applications here, but your dowel heads would be extended for grasping.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/46468121842/in/photostream

    Sonny

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Brian Welch on Sun Jul 17 16:43:45 2022
    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 6:59:27 AM UTC-4, Brian Welch wrote:
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 11:58:55 PM UTC-4, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 16, 2022 at 11:09:11 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 16 Jul 2022 06:49:58 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    T\It's time to put your thinking caps on.

    I need to attach this coffee table top to the base, but I want to use some
    type of hold-down latches instead of the screwed-on angle brackets that >were used previously. IOW, no tools needed for disassembly. The latches >should exert some downward force so that the top is tight to the base.

    https://i.imgur.com/r475aTA.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/GcMRjTd.jpg

    The 4 legged base consists a full width section and then 2 half width >pieces. The pieces will be attached together so that it will be a single unit.
    4 latches, attached to sides of the full width section, will be more than
    enough.

    I don't want anything shiny like this, I'm looking for something that matches
    the overall look of the table. These are also too long (5") meaning that they
    extend too far down the leg. 3" or so would be hidden unless someone is >sitting on the floor.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NNNJunhua-Thickened-Stainless-Horizontal-Adjustable/dp/B097BJY31H/>

    Something like these, but that are designed to be used at a right angle.

    https://i.imgur.com/ULYNXrS.jpg

    Thanks for any ideas.
    I have used these hanging shelves on a wall, but recessed into the top
    or the legs with an opposing screw you could twist the top on no
    hardware to be seen. Set up is going to be interesting maybe even challenging.

    https://www.rockler.com/keyhole-fittings-select-either-single-or-double
    That is an interesting idea. Of course, no one but me (and you) will know how to get the table apart. ;-)

    But the idea of some type of "twist and lock" fitting sounds intriguing. I'm
    going to let that simmer for a day or two while the finish cures.

    Thanks!
    Your original ideas could be implemented, if you were to add small riser blocks, or pieces of angle, on the underside that would give you 2 aligning vertical planes...
    I do like the keyhole/twist idea...very clever...

    Riser blocks are a consideration. Thanks.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Sonny on Sun Jul 17 17:00:23 2022
    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:31:48 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Make your own - Glue some blocks to the underside of the table, each side of the legs.... blocks with holes in them. Key the blocks to the legs with pegs/dowels.... maybe tapered dowels to be more easily extracted.

    Or some type of keyed application may be the easiest to figure out. Whichever kind of key, attach it with short string/leather to the table's bottom so the key doesn't get lost.

    Square headed dowels? .... similar to the decor applications here, but your dowel heads would be extended for grasping.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/46468121842/in/photostream

    Sonny

    Interesting idea. Tapered would even add some "pull-down" to keep the top on tight.

    FWIW, all ideas need to be tabled for a little while. (Did you see what I did there?)

    We just found out that we've got some family coming to stay, so I've been instructed
    to get the table assembled and ready for use. I picked up some 2" brass corner brackets
    for the time being. The table is already rustic, so a few more small holes on the underside
    is not going to make any difference.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Jul 17 22:04:12 2022
    On Sun, 17 Jul 2022 17:00:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:31:48 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Make your own - Glue some blocks to the underside of the table, each side of the legs.... blocks with holes in them. Key the blocks to the legs with pegs/dowels.... maybe tapered dowels to be more easily extracted.

    Or some type of keyed application may be the easiest to figure out. Whichever kind of key, attach it with short string/leather to the table's bottom so the key doesn't get lost.

    Square headed dowels? .... similar to the decor applications here, but your dowel heads would be extended for grasping.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/46468121842/in/photostream

    Sonny

    Interesting idea. Tapered would even add some "pull-down" to keep the top on tight.

    ANy swelling would make them *really* tight. I don't know if there is
    a way to make brass or aluminum wedges but it might work better.

    FWIW, all ideas need to be tabled for a little while. (Did you see what I did there?)

    We just found out that we've got some family coming to stay, so I've been instructed
    to get the table assembled and ready for use. I picked up some 2" brass corner brackets
    for the time being. The table is already rustic, so a few more small holes on the underside
    is not going to make any difference.

    How about threaded inserts screwed into the table and screws from the
    legs up.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Puckdropper@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Mon Jul 18 06:37:30 2022
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:n3s6dh58l3e05f61r29vhcj9g41e15ltgb@4ax.com:


    Festool knock-down connectors?

    I've also seen a completely hidden connector that uses a magnetic
    "key" on a drill. Place the key near the connector and turn on the
    drill. The magnet turns a similar rotating collar in the connector to close/release the connector. Looked cool but was rather expensive. I
    can't find it now, though.


    I don't know if this will help any, but I saw it used on a stair rail on
    This Old House.

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to k...@notreal.com on Mon Jul 18 07:32:17 2022
    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:04:39 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 17 Jul 2022 17:00:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:31:48 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Make your own - Glue some blocks to the underside of the table, each side of the legs.... blocks with holes in them. Key the blocks to the legs with pegs/dowels.... maybe tapered dowels to be more easily extracted.

    Or some type of keyed application may be the easiest to figure out. Whichever kind of key, attach it with short string/leather to the table's bottom so the key doesn't get lost.

    Square headed dowels? .... similar to the decor applications here, but your dowel heads would be extended for grasping.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/46468121842/in/photostream

    Sonny

    Interesting idea. Tapered would even add some "pull-down" to keep the top on tight.
    ANy swelling would make them *really* tight. I don't know if there is
    a way to make brass or aluminum wedges but it might work better.

    FWIW, all ideas need to be tabled for a little while. (Did you see what I did there?)

    We just found out that we've got some family coming to stay, so I've been instructed
    to get the table assembled and ready for use. I picked up some 2" brass corner brackets
    for the time being. The table is already rustic, so a few more small holes on the underside
    is not going to make any difference.
    How about threaded inserts screwed into the table and screws from the
    legs up.

    Isn't that basically what Leon suggested in his first reply, except that he said long lags?

    if so...

    Can't do that...the base has no real place to put the screws because there is essentially no
    material (wood) between the actual feet and the bottom of the table top.

    https://i.imgur.com/omdi13N.jpg

    Unless you meant putting the screws (bolts) somewhere else besides up through the feet.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Mon Jul 18 17:34:14 2022
    On Mon, 18 Jul 2022 07:32:17 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 10:04:39 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 17 Jul 2022 17:00:23 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 17, 2022 at 7:31:48 PM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Make your own - Glue some blocks to the underside of the table, each side of the legs.... blocks with holes in them. Key the blocks to the legs with pegs/dowels.... maybe tapered dowels to be more easily extracted.

    Or some type of keyed application may be the easiest to figure out. Whichever kind of key, attach it with short string/leather to the table's bottom so the key doesn't get lost.

    Square headed dowels? .... similar to the decor applications here, but your dowel heads would be extended for grasping.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/46468121842/in/photostream

    Sonny

    Interesting idea. Tapered would even add some "pull-down" to keep the top on tight.
    ANy swelling would make them *really* tight. I don't know if there is
    a way to make brass or aluminum wedges but it might work better.

    FWIW, all ideas need to be tabled for a little while. (Did you see what I did there?)

    We just found out that we've got some family coming to stay, so I've been instructed
    to get the table assembled and ready for use. I picked up some 2" brass corner brackets
    for the time being. The table is already rustic, so a few more small holes on the underside
    is not going to make any difference.
    How about threaded inserts screwed into the table and screws from the
    legs up.

    Isn't that basically what Leon suggested in his first reply, except that he said long lags?

    if so...

    Can't do that...the base has no real place to put the screws because there is essentially no
    material (wood) between the actual feet and the bottom of the table top.

    https://i.imgur.com/omdi13N.jpg

    Unless you meant putting the screws (bolts) somewhere else besides up through the feet.


    Looonnng screws, counter-bore, or maybe at an angle. ISTM, opposing
    angled inserts/screws would be really strong.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)