• Re: Finishing Question - Will Wood Bleach Work?

    From hubops@ccanoemail.ca@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Apr 10 11:15:12 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    Sorry - not familar with using bleach.
    If it was mine - I'd just keep it rustic looking -
    ie: keep the dark areas and imperfections.
    If you can make the grain " pop " in the sanded-off
    areas - with a medium < deep golden / teak-coloured > stain -
    the dark imperfections become "character".
    Hopefully there is an area on the bottom or a scrap
    to allow a bit of experimenting ?
    John T.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 10 07:41:41 2022
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
    because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
    clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
    "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
    Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bill@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 10 11:15:46 2022
    On 4/10/2022 10:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.


    I like your idea of going with a dark stain (or--see below); I can't see
    why you would go with light colored stain on this. It seem like that
    would just magnify any imperfections that may be present. You know more
    than I do;
    that is just my immediate thought. Personally, I think I would consider "painting" it, and I might run that idea by the owner. A tan with some
    red in it, almost matching its color now, might look very good! I
    painted my deck that color last year, and a piece of this sort might
    complement it very nicely. Maybe you gave me an idea for a project!
    : )
    Sorry, I have no experience with wood bleach, but my gut feeling is that
    is the wrong direction. You would still be left with damaged wood.

    -Bill



    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Bill on Sun Apr 10 09:04:04 2022
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 11:15:51 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:
    On 4/10/2022 10:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.
    I like your idea of going with a dark stain (or--see below);

    It is not my intent to go with a dark stain.

    I can't see
    why you would go with light colored stain on this. It seem like that
    would just magnify any imperfections that may be present. You know more
    than I do;

    A dark piece would not match the decor of the room. That is mainly why
    the owner wants it lighter.

    that is just my immediate thought. Personally, I think I would consider "painting" it, and I might run that idea by the owner. A tan with some
    red in it, almost matching its color now, might look very good! I
    painted my deck that color last year, and a piece of this sort might complement it very nicely. Maybe you gave me an idea for a project!
    : )
    Sorry, I have no experience with wood bleach, but my gut feeling is that
    is the wrong direction. You would still be left with damaged wood.

    I'm not trying to fix the "damage" (i.e. character) I'm simply trying to get the piece to a more uniform color so that the remains of the dark stain
    doesn't show through whatever new finish is used. To be honest, I'm not
    even sure if wood bleach would do that, which is why I asked.


    -Bill

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 10 11:31:26 2022
    On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
    guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
    the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
    put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

    Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
    have to take.
    I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
    or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
    If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
    spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.

    I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.

    Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
    the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would
    likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
    blotchey.

    Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
    will give it a natural darker warm appearance.

    If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
    be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

    OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
    to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
    I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
    wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
    or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.

    When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
    it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
    wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
    This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Sun Apr 10 10:59:34 2022
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 12:31:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!
    It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
    guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
    the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
    put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

    I agree with the third officer plaque not being part of the original but that plaque screws onto this semi-circular bar that through-bolts into a U-shaped groove above the center recess. The curved bottom of the bar sure does make
    it seem like a handle. I assume that the "handle" is original to the piece and the
    plaque was added later to give the table a "nautical look".

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/uzghHpT.jpg

    The bolts are the same as the 28 bolts that hold the bottom layer to the top. The
    bottom is solid, with no indication that anything except the legs was ever attached
    to it, so I'm not sure that is was a spool. In addition, the bolts (and nuts) extend
    beyond the bottom which would be a hindrance to anything being wound onto the spool. Not that any of that matters, just conversation. ;-)

    https://i.imgur.com/Rum2LMB.jpg


    Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
    have to take.
    I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
    or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
    If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
    spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.

    I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.

    Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
    the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
    blotchey.

    Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
    will give it a natural darker warm appearance.

    If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
    be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

    "Boat load"? A intentional pun or just coincidence?


    OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
    to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
    I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
    wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
    or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.

    When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
    it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
    wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
    This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.

    Thanks.

    re: "I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of wet everywhere."

    I assume that this statement means that you are trying to have it appear to have a wet surface everywhere and that overworking it leaves dry-looking
    spots.

    (It could sort of be read the other way around, so while I'm pretty sure I
    know what you mean, I want to be *really* sure.)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From J. Clarke@21:1/5 to hubops@ccanoemail.ca on Sun Apr 10 14:34:48 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 11:15:12 -0400, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:

    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >>authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more >>because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >>clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >>stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >>"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >>Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. >>I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >>decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    Sorry - not familar with using bleach.
    If it was mine - I'd just keep it rustic looking -
    ie: keep the dark areas and imperfections.
    If you can make the grain " pop " in the sanded-off
    areas - with a medium < deep golden / teak-coloured > stain -
    the dark imperfections become "character".
    Hopefully there is an area on the bottom or a scrap
    to allow a bit of experimenting ?

    My inclination would be to go after the remaining dark areas with a
    Dremel. For that recess I agree, template and router would be a good
    option.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to J. Clarke on Sun Apr 10 11:54:37 2022
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 2:34:52 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 11:15:12 -0400, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:

    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >>authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item. >>The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the >>bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more >>because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >>clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >>stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >>"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >>Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open >>to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. >>I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >>decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    Sorry - not familar with using bleach.
    If it was mine - I'd just keep it rustic looking -
    ie: keep the dark areas and imperfections.
    If you can make the grain " pop " in the sanded-off
    areas - with a medium < deep golden / teak-coloured > stain -
    the dark imperfections become "character".
    Hopefully there is an area on the bottom or a scrap
    to allow a bit of experimenting ?
    My inclination would be to go after the remaining dark areas with a
    Dremel. For that recess I agree, template and router would be a good
    option.

    The Dremel for the bolt holes might work. Thanks.

    I bought some flap wheel sanders for my drill press recently. I used them
    on the curved sections of the legs and they worked pretty well.

    For the center recess, I might take a shot with them in my hand drill
    and see what happens.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 10 17:13:26 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 11:31:26 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
    authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
    because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
    clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >> stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
    "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >> Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >> decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!

    It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
    guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
    the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
    put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

    Sure it is. It goes with captain's chairs.

    Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
    have to take.
    I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
    or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
    If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
    spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for.

    I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.

    Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
    the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would >likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
    blotchey.

    Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
    will give it a natural darker warm appearance.

    If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
    be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

    How about one of the penetrating epoxies. If you want to get really
    crass, a deep pour epoxy would preserve it. That is, unless it's left
    out in the sun, then nothing will help. Maybe a sheet of glass.

    OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
    to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
    I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
    wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this >technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
    or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.

    When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
    it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
    wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
    This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.



    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Apr 10 17:08:03 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >decent for a basement family room type setting.

    An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
    around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
    bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to k...@notreal.com on Sun Apr 10 16:13:14 2022
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >decent for a basement family room type setting.
    An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
    around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
    bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

    Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.

    Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
    remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
    want to know what to expect.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 10 19:00:22 2022
    On 4/10/2022 12:59 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 12:31:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/10/2022 9:41 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >>> authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
    because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >>> clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >>> stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
    "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >>> Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. >>> I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >>> decent for a basement family room type setting.

    Thanks!
    It does not look like oak to me but maybe it is the resolution. My
    guess would be fir maybe pine. I find it hard also to believe that
    the metallic third officer piece is original. It looks like some one
    put it there. Anyway it looks like the side of a spool to me.

    I agree with the third officer plaque not being part of the original but that plaque screws onto this semi-circular bar that through-bolts into a U-shaped groove above the center recess. The curved bottom of the bar sure does make it seem like a handle. I assume that the "handle" is original to the piece and the
    plaque was added later to give the table a "nautical look".

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/uzghHpT.jpg

    The bolts are the same as the 28 bolts that hold the bottom layer to the top. The
    bottom is solid, with no indication that anything except the legs was ever attached
    to it, so I'm not sure that is was a spool. In addition, the bolts (and nuts) extend
    beyond the bottom which would be a hindrance to anything being wound onto the spool. Not that any of that matters, just conversation. ;-)

    https://i.imgur.com/Rum2LMB.jpg


    Past that, what does the customer want. Explain to him what avenue you
    have to take.
    I am not sure bleach would work on the dark spots, may be a router and
    or a paint remover. Maybe leave that part alone.
    If this will continue to be a coffee table and perhaps have liquids
    spilled a gel varnish might not provide the protection you are looking for. >>
    I would recommend General Finishes Arm-R-Seal for the varnish.

    Stains, if this is actually oak, most any will work, gel stains being
    the easiest to work without lap marks. If this is pine or fir you would
    likely want to use a sanding sealer so that the stain will not look
    blotchey.

    Or just varnish it. An oil based varnish, Like the on I mentioned above,
    will give it a natural darker warm appearance.

    If you go with the Arm-R-Seal you can apply it with a rag but you will
    be putting on a boat load of coats to get a thick protective layer.

    "Boat load"? A intentional pun or just coincidence?

    ;~0 I thought that would came back. Coincidence. The the name plate
    spot appears that perhaps an axle of some sort wint through the big hole
    and something like a roll pin through the axle to engage the surface.
    To perhaps wind cable back up on a spool.





    OR use a quality foam brush, Think Wooster brand and you may only need
    to put on a couple of coats. The foam brush will allow a thick coat.
    I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of
    wet everywhere. Put it down and leave it alone till dry. Practice this
    technique on a scrap. You can clean the Wooster foam brush with thinner
    or mineral spirits multiple times. Expect to pay about $4~$5 for a brush.

    When finished and the surface is dry, several days, and if it feels like
    it has little dust nibs wrap a piece of paper around a small block of
    wood and give the surface a few passes with light to moderate pressure.
    This almost always leaves a baby butt smooth feel.

    Thanks.

    re: "I try to not over work the surface so that it appears to have a layer of wet everywhere."

    That is what I was trying to say.



    I assume that this statement means that you are trying to have it appear to have a wet surface everywhere and that overworking it leaves dry-looking spots.

    Precisely. Thinking back, I think I applied with a rag for the first
    coat, and wipe off excess, and to seal the wood. And then a second/last
    coat with the foam brush. Easier to get and keep that wet look if the
    surface is already sealed. Don't worry with how the rag coat looks, dry
    or wet. Let the first coat dry to the touch.

    The Wooster foam brush will lay down a thick coat.



    (It could sort of be read the other way around, so while I'm pretty sure I know what you mean, I want to be *really* sure.)




    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Apr 10 18:49:31 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
    authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
    because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
    "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
    An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
    around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
    bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

    Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.

    Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the >remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
    want to know what to expect.

    Reading material https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/oxalic-acid-a-very-useful-bleach/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Sun Apr 10 17:25:22 2022
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 7:49:40 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item. >> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
    because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
    stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
    Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open >> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. >> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
    decent for a basement family room type setting.
    An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
    around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
    bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

    Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.

    Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the >remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
    want to know what to expect.
    Reading material https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/oxalic-acid-a-very-useful-bleach/

    As far I can tell Oxalic Acid will not remove the remaining *finishing* stain in
    the crevices, just water stains or other stain caused by iron.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Apr 10 23:53:27 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 17:25:22 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 7:49:40 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an >> >> >authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item. >> >> >The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the >> >> >bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more >> >> >because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can
    clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark
    stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The >> >> >"walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep.
    Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open >> >> >to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint. >> >> >I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look
    decent for a basement family room type setting.
    An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
    around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
    bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

    Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.

    Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the
    remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
    want to know what to expect.
    Reading material
    https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/oxalic-acid-a-very-useful-bleach/

    As far I can tell Oxalic Acid will not remove the remaining *finishing* stain in
    the crevices, just water stains or other stain caused by iron.

    If you wipe it down with mineral spirits how does it look?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bill@21:1/5 to All on Mon Apr 11 03:38:47 2022
    On 4/10/2022 12:04 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 11:15:51 AM UTC-4, Bill wrote:

    that is just my immediate thought. Personally, I think I would consider
    "painting" it, and I might run that idea by the owner. A tan with some
    red in it, almost matching its color now, might look very good! I
    painted my deck that color last year, and a piece of this sort might
    complement it very nicely. Maybe you gave me an idea for a project!
    : )
    Sorry, I have no experience with wood bleach, but my gut feeling is that
    is the wrong direction. You would still be left with damaged wood.

    I'm not trying to fix the "damage" (i.e. character) I'm simply trying to get the piece to a more uniform color so that the remains of the dark stain doesn't show through whatever new finish is used. To be honest, I'm not
    even sure if wood bleach would do that, which is why I asked.

    I understand. I think you face a tough task and I wish you luck with it.
    Only you and the owner appreciate the value, sentimental and otherwise,
    of this piece, and what you are willing to invest to save or preserve
    it. It reminds me a little of a cute old lamp that I picked up for $7
    at an auction. After I replaced the socket, the ("lamp") cord and the
    shade it's cost was closer to something like $42--but it's a cute little
    lamp.
    I put lamp cord in italics, because I had never hear of "lamp cord" and presumed I could use an extension cord (nope, it didn't fit). : )

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Sonny@21:1/5 to All on Mon Apr 11 07:46:16 2022
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.
    2) The top boards seem older, used, well worn, multiple "defects", whereas the bottom boards have none. The bottom boards may have been added to the original piece.
    3) Why would round head nails in the top boards be needed if there are lots of bolts.... and there seem to be no nails in the bottom boards?
    4) It looks like fir to me. Oak has tannins that would react to the nails/bolts causing blackness. The blackness shown on the boards doesn't appear to be the blackness you'd see if it were oak-metal reaction. I think that blackness/darkness is
    rust stains combined with the blackish stain-stuff that you sanded off. Dab a bit of Oxalic acid on a small (rust stain?) spot and see what happens.
    5) Cleaning out those crevices may require a bit of tedious hand scraping/sanding and the like. Probably limited success with using power tools, but worth a try on some areas.
    6) Third Officer plate not original. I think the cavity it fits into would be a more precise fit, if so.

    Neat project, though. I would enjoy doing it. It reminds me of a round Spanish Cedar bench I want to redo..... similarly, has the T&G mating edges. Re: bottom side view of your project.... I like your old looking work cabinet behind the table.

    Sonny

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Sonny on Mon Apr 11 11:53:57 2022
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch

    2) The top boards seem older, used, well worn, multiple "defects", whereas the bottom boards have none. The bottom boards may have been added to the original piece.

    I would expect the exposed top to be more worn than the bottom, whether it was a hatch, a table, a spool.
    If the bottom was added afterwards, whoever did it took care to match the T&G quite nicely. It's hard to tell
    from the image (angle, etc.) but the size and placement are within a 1/32" in both size and placement. In
    addition, the wood seems to be the same in type, thickness and age.

    https://i.imgur.com/uuC87V9.jpg

    Granted, many of the hatch covers in the images linked to above are "single thickness" but that doesn't mean they
    all were.

    3) Why would round head nails in the top boards be needed if there are lots of bolts.... and there seem to be no nails in the bottom boards?

    There's lots of nails on the bottom. Maybe the nails are original and the bolts were added later or maybe they were
    the builder's version of Norm's "just a few brads" to hold it together while the holes were drilled and bolts inserted.
    Overkill, yes, but overbuilt is sometimes ok, especially on a ship.

    https://i.imgur.com/cb0D57w.jpg

    4) It looks like fir to me. Oak has tannins that would react to the nails/bolts causing blackness. The blackness shown on the boards doesn't appear to be the blackness you'd see if it were oak-metal reaction. I think that blackness/darkness is rust
    stains combined with the blackish stain-stuff that you sanded off. Dab a bit of Oxalic acid on a small (rust stain?) spot and see what happens.

    I'm leaning towards fir also, based on the end-grain pattern

    5) Cleaning out those crevices may require a bit of tedious hand scraping/sanding and the like. Probably limited success with using power tools, but worth a try on some areas.

    Tru dat.

    6) Third Officer plate not original. I think the cavity it fits into would be a more precise fit, if so.

    I'm in agreement that the plate is not original, but the "handle bar" underneath it has a very precise fit
    (other than the round ends) and uses the same bolts as the ones out in the field, leading me to think
    that even the field bolts are original. Admittedly, the round over on the top wouldn't make it a great
    hatch cover, but that may have been added when it was turned into a table. Adding a nautical style
    name plate to a ship's hatch cover as a design feature sure does make a lot of sense. It certainly
    dresses up the flat handle bar a lot.

    In addition, the center recess extends well into the lower boards. Even if the table was made from pieces
    of wood from old hatches, I can't think of why they would have recessed the bottom piece also.

    I filled the cavity with scrapes and even with my smallish hands, it's hard to fully grab the handle with just a hole in the top
    boards. The extra depth is almost required, once again leading me to think that the top and bottom have always been part
    of the piece.

    https://i.imgur.com/fKk9P3S.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg


    Neat project, though. I would enjoy doing it. It reminds me of a round Spanish Cedar bench I want to redo..... similarly, has the T&G mating edges. Re: bottom side view of your project.... I like your old looking work cabinet behind the table.

    Ha! That's actually an old dresser. Big drawers hold lots of stuff. They've needed some reinforcement over the years,
    but it's a solid piece that supports that counter top quite nicely.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Mon Apr 11 17:25:50 2022
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 16:13:14 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, April 10, 2022 at 5:08:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 10 Apr 2022 07:41:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
    Disclaimer: My finishing skills are pretty weak, so be gentle.

    I've been asked to refinish this "coffee table". I don't know if it's an
    authentic hatch cover from a ship, but it shore (PI) is one heavy item.
    The top alone weighs about 40 lbs. I believe that it's oak.

    Top and one leg:

    https://i.imgur.com/sj0JgR2.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/SJUzqLW.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/NRi7PFK.jpg

    The table was dark brown, as shown in the center recess and around the
    bolt holes. I sanded most of it off, but I don't want to sand any more
    because what's left is pretty deep, especially around the bolt holes.

    https://i.imgur.com/XwYUe9b.jpg

    https://i.imgur.com/oIlA87N.jpg

    The owner would like to piece to be lighter than it was, but unless I can >> >clean up what's left of the previous finish, I may have to stay with a dark >> >stain. I also need a way to get the stain out of the center recess. The
    "walls" of the recess are vertical, kind of like 2 steps down. 2.25" deep. >> >Hard to sand, maybe a template and a (long) straight bit in a router?

    I've never used wood bleach. Should I try it? Can I do any harm?

    I was thinking of using a gel stain and then a gel topcoat but I'm open
    to other suggestions. No sprays unless it's from a rattle can. No paint.
    I'm not trying to turn this table into a heirloom piece, just make it look >> >decent for a basement family room type setting.
    An "oxy" bleach should take that right out. Oxalic Acid has been
    around as a "wood bleach" since forever. Do NOT use a chlorine based
    bleach. It'll unglue the wood itself (dissolve the lignin).

    Yeah, Oxalic Acid was the kind of bleach I was curious about.

    Will it change the existing color of the wood or just get rid of the >remaining stain? I don't think I'll care if it lightens the wood, just
    want to know what to expect.

    IME, it'll significantly lighten the color.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Tue Apr 12 09:06:35 2022
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch


    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Tue Apr 12 13:14:20 2022
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Tue Apr 12 16:29:38 2022
    On Tue, 12 Apr 2022 13:14:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    It is not centered in the piece right? At first I thought of a spool
    but your first post it looked off center. You could sell as a hobbit
    door, but I think a hatch is more likely.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Tue Apr 12 17:16:54 2022
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 5:29:48 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Tue, 12 Apr 2022 13:14:20 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.
    It is not centered in the piece right? At first I thought of a spool
    but your first post it looked off center. You could sell as a hobbit
    door, but I think a hatch is more likely.

    Perfectly centered

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Wed Apr 13 10:55:55 2022
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the
    middle?






    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?


    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you
    said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.






    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look
    nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not
    recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
    appears to have had in your first picture.


    https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Leon on Wed Apr 13 10:58:09 2022
    On 4/13/2022 10:55 AM, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool
    with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are
    common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391


    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain
    this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle
    on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated
    slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner.  And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the middle?






    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the
    handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?


    Yes.  It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.






    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain
    away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that
    extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate.  There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look nautical.  Not all spools have or need an axle support plate.  I do not recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
    appears to have had in your first picture.


    https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable


    Notice here the nautical compass theme used on this spool converted to
    be used as a table.

    https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205828645446108676/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Wed Apr 13 13:39:12 2022
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you
    said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not
    recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.



    Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
    appears to have had in your first picture.

    I'm not sure what you see that appears to have been a bushing.
    There is certainly no evidence of a bushing ever existing on the piece
    I have.



    https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable

    What I notice on every spool shown is that there are bolts
    where the center core is attached to the round ends. There
    is nothing like that on my piece.

    FWIW, I spoke to the owner. I asked where she got the table from.
    She said it was years ago and what she remembers is that the guy
    she got it from said the top came from a ship. I know that's not much,
    but that's what was said. Could have been passed around multiple
    times and the true story lost to the ages. Who knows.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Wed Apr 13 13:44:54 2022
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:58:18 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 10:55 AM, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool
    with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are
    common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391


    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain
    this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle
    on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated
    slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg

    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the middle?






    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the
    handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?


    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.






    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain
    away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that
    extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
    appears to have had in your first picture.


    https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable
    Notice here the nautical compass theme used on this spool converted to
    be used as a table.

    https://www.pinterest.com/pin/205828645446108676/

    That's obviously a spool. It has all the features that I have mentioned are missing from mine. The attachment holes for the center core, the through
    axle hole, the single layer ends, no exposed bolt ends under the top, etc.

    This is from a Nautical Antiques dealer. Yes, I imagine that one could argue that whoever used a spool end to make the one I'm working on, made more
    than one. Or that other people took spool ends and used the same "2 layered, bottom layer a couple of inches smaller than the top, center handle" modifications. It could happen.

    Yes, they both could have been fabricated from ship parts and not actually
    have been a hatch cover. However, a spool end? I still don't see it, for all the
    reasons I posted earlier.

    Just in case the Pinterest links doesn't work. I snipped the picture also.

    https://www.pinterest.com/pin/337207090825470185/

    https://i.imgur.com/UFEIGY3.jpg

    Moving on.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Wed Apr 13 15:01:04 2022
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the
    middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you
    said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look
    nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not
    recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece
    vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing
    on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate
    in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what
    my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Wed Apr 13 17:15:29 2022
    On Wed, 13 Apr 2022 15:01:04 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover >over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."

    Could have been a forward bulk head hatch, I could see a prank being
    played on the Third officer, "there is your cabin sir".

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Wed Apr 13 16:21:09 2022
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the
    middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you
    said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look
    nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not
    recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.

    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece
    vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing
    on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate
    in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?





    Notice here no support plate but rather a bushing, like the piece
    appears to have had in your first picture.

    I'm not sure what you see that appears to have been a bushing.
    There is certainly no evidence of a bushing ever existing on the piece
    I have.

    The sholdered hole. Similar to a hole in a disk rotor that accepts the
    race.






    https://www.bigiron.com/Lots/GeneralCableSteelCable

    What I notice on every spool shown is that there are bolts
    where the center core is attached to the round ends. There
    is nothing like that on my piece.

    FWIW, I spoke to the owner. I asked where she got the table from.
    She said it was years ago and what she remembers is that the guy
    she got it from said the top came from a ship. I know that's not much,
    but that's what was said. Could have been passed around multiple
    times and the true story lost to the ages. Who knows.


    Yeah Who knows! FWIW ships had spools for cable to be laid at the sea
    bottom. And as cargo.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Thu Apr 14 12:46:21 2022
    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen.

    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal
    name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look
    nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not
    recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece
    vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing
    on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate
    in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."



    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand
    what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that
    his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    No hard feelings on my side.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Thu Apr 14 14:41:16 2022
    On Thu, 14 Apr 2022 12:46:21 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>>>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen. >>>>>>
    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal >>>>> name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look >>>>> nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not >>>>> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece
    vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing
    on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate
    in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what >> my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate >> itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please >> don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes
    in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover >> over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."



    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand
    what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that
    his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    Do you know why manholes are round?

    No hard feelings on my side.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Thu Apr 14 13:55:01 2022
    On 4/14/2022 1:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 14 Apr 2022 12:46:21 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote: >>>>>>>>>> Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>>>>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen. >>>>>>>
    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal >>>>>> name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look >>>>>> nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not >>>>>> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools. >>>>>
    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece >>>> vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing >>>> on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate >>>> in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what >>> my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate >>> itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please >>> don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes
    in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover
    over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."



    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand
    what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that
    his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    Do you know why manholes are round?


    So that they will not fall into the hole.

    Do you know why the lift area is at the perimeter instead of in the middle?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Thu Apr 14 15:23:53 2022
    On Thu, 14 Apr 2022 13:55:01 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/14/2022 1:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 14 Apr 2022 12:46:21 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>>>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>>>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen. >>>>>>>>
    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal >>>>>>> name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look >>>>>>> nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not >>>>>>> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools. >>>>>>
    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the >>>>>> plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece >>>>> vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing >>>>> on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side >>>>> of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think >>>>> the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate >>>>> in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what
    my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate
    itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please
    don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes
    in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover
    over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."



    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand >>> what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that
    his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    Do you know why manholes are round?


    So that they will not fall into the hole.

    Do you know why the lift area is at the perimeter instead of in the middle?

    Most have the hole at the edge but there are other sorts.

    <https://duckduckgo.com/?q=manhole+cover+pictures&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_Gb4NmAd9gS8%2FTGc7mNkVzYI%2FAAAAAAAABRE%2FFxX3Ct2vD7E%2Fs1600%2Fmanholecover03.jpg>

    Not round but the lifter is a bar across the middle.

    <https://duckduckgo.com/?q=manhole+cover+pictures&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2F5.imimg.com%2Fdata5%2FPP%2FEE%2FMY-2552693%2Fsfrc-manhole-covers-500x500.jpg>

    Hatch sort of thing: <https://duckduckgo.com/?q=manhole+cover+pictures&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2Faairknuagp.cloudimg.io%2Fv7%2Fwww.kentstainless.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2020%2F09%2FSTAINL3-1-1.jpg>

    There is a WIDE variety of these things


    But I agree, it's a spool

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Thu Apr 14 14:14:08 2022
    On Thursday, April 14, 2022 at 1:46:31 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
    Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen. >>>>>
    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal >>>> name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look >>>> nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not >>>> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools.

    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece
    vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing
    on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate
    in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes
    in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover
    over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."

    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand
    what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that
    his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    No hard feelings on my side.

    Same here.

    Thanks for the finishing advice.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Thu Apr 14 17:14:27 2022
    On 4/14/2022 2:23 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 14 Apr 2022 13:55:01 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/14/2022 1:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 14 Apr 2022 12:46:21 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>> On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch
    Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>>>>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>>>>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen. >>>>>>>>>
    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal >>>>>>>> name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look >>>>>>>> nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not >>>>>>>> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools. >>>>>>>
    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the >>>>>>> name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the >>>>>>> plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches. >>>>>> Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece >>>>>> vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing >>>>>> on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side >>>>>> of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think >>>>>> the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate >>>>>> in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what
    my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate
    itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please
    don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes
    in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover
    over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."



    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand >>>> what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that >>>> his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    Do you know why manholes are round?


    So that they will not fall into the hole.

    Do you know why the lift area is at the perimeter instead of in the middle?

    Most have the hole at the edge but there are other sorts.

    <https://duckduckgo.com/?q=manhole+cover+pictures&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2F3.bp.blogspot.com%2F_Gb4NmAd9gS8%2FTGc7mNkVzYI%2FAAAAAAAABRE%2FFxX3Ct2vD7E%2Fs1600%2Fmanholecover03.jpg>

    This looks like a small diameter water valve cover. Down here in the
    Houston area the water valve cover is about 8~9" across.




    Not round but the lifter is a bar across the middle.





    <https://duckduckgo.com/?q=manhole+cover+pictures&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2F5.imimg.com%2Fdata5%2FPP%2FEE%2FMY-2552693%2Fsfrc-manhole-covers-500x500.jpg>


    And concrete. While still heavy the cast iron ones are very heavy.

    Hatch sort of thing: <https://duckduckgo.com/?q=manhole+cover+pictures&t=ffab&iax=images&ia=images&iai=https%3A%2F%2Faairknuagp.cloudimg.io%2Fv7%2Fwww.kentstainless.com%2Fwp-content%2Fuploads%2F2020%2F09%2FSTAINL3-1-1.jpg>

    There is a WIDE variety of these things

    Wow those are some really cool ones. I like the one of the alligator
    grabbing a doll with a $ for it's head. Money down the drain.





    But I agree, it's a spool

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Thu Apr 14 17:07:01 2022
    On 4/14/2022 4:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Thursday, April 14, 2022 at 1:46:31 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 5:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 5:21:20 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/13/2022 3:39 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Wednesday, April 13, 2022 at 11:56:05 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/12/2022 3:14 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, April 12, 2022 at 10:06:45 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 4/11/2022 1:53 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, April 11, 2022 at 10:46:19 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote: >>>>>>>>>> Couple of observations:
    1) Looks like a spool construction, but I've never seen a spool with T&G mating edges of the boards.

    Scroll through these images. The center recess and cross bar are common traits of hatch covers
    on old ships.

    https://www.google.com/search?q=ship+wooden+deck+hatch+cover&tbm=isch >>>>>>>> Looks more like this to me.

    https://www.dreamstime.com/large-empty-wooden-coil-new-cable-drum-industrial-area-outdoors-wooden-spool-cable-image107746391

    Yes. It's round, thick and made of wood. ;-)

    I'm not saying that you are wrong, just asking that you please explain this:

    The handle in the center the table is exactly the same as the handle on tables supposedly made from hatch covers.
    The bar, the bolts, the round recess, even the curved and elongated slot that the bar sits in. (center image, right hand
    side)

    https://i.imgur.com/xmSOqK4.jpg
    All examples of hatches are square and the handle is near the
    edge/corner. And who would design a heavy hatch with the handle in the >>>>>> middle?

    Do you feel that the builder took a spool end and manually matched the handle set-up so as to make it look like a hatch cover?

    Yes. It is coincidental that the name plate fit the slot and or as you >>>>>> said, the fabricator cut the slot with a router.
    There are a lot of other differences that might be easier to explain away - no indication of an axle support plate, two
    layers of wood, T&G construction, no through axle hole, bolts that extend into the winding area, etc. - but that handle
    sure as heck looks just like all the other hatch handles I've seen. >>>>>>>
    The only thing that looks similar to other hatch designs is the metal >>>>>> name plate. There are many pieces of furniture that are made to look >>>>>> nautical. Not all spools have or need an axle support plate. I do not >>>>>> recall actually seeing a support plate on most of these type spools. >>>>>
    I'm not sure that you understood my point when I agreed that the
    name plate was added on later. My point was that the bar below the
    plate and the recess exactly match what is shown on other hatches.
    Except that the hole and handle is in the middle of a large round piece >>>> vs. the edge/corner like in all of the samples you provided. One thing >>>> on this object resembles a hatch. Everything else looks like the side
    of a spool.

    One last observation, you mentioned that this is heavy. Do you think
    the 2 little screws on each end would be enough to hold the name plate >>>> in place while lifting the hatch over the life of the hatch?

    What? Where did that come from? It appears that you did not understand what >>> my images meant nor the words that I used to describe them.

    I'll try one last time.

    1 - This is the handle and the name plate. We all agree that the name plate >>> itself was probably added on after the table was built:

    https://i.imgur.com/iMftT06.jpg

    2 - Take the handle - without the name plate - and set it in the slot and then
    bolt it through both layers of the table top. No bolt shown here, but the bolts
    are the 3/8" x 3 1/2" bolts shown in the previous image.

    https://i.imgur.com/AOGdTdB.jpg

    Now you have handle that can easily support the weight of the piece. Please >>> don't doubt me, I've lifted the piece using that handle.

    Later, when you are turning the hatch cover into a table, drill 2 small holes
    in the handle and screw the name plate *to the bolted in handle*:

    https://i.imgur.com/Ck0AzbU.jpg

    I never once said or implied that the name plate was part of the hatch cover
    over it's lifetime. 3 days ago I specifically said - to you - that "I agree with the
    third officer plaque not being part of the original..."

    I let this lay. I think both of us don't think either of us understand
    what the other is saying. My only point is that I truly believe that
    his was never a hatch and was simply the side of a spool. I Googled
    round hatches and never found a picture other than square hatches.
    Googling spools comes up with countless varieties of picture like the
    one you posted.

    No hard feelings on my side.

    Same here.

    Thanks for the finishing advice.



    You bet! Any time sir!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)