So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughts
on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various >companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping >assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp
for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle
but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you
still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why
the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool
simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other
type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these
type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have >teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at
the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things
in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts
are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight
stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the >pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughtsI do a lot of picture frames and have made some boxes using this clamp' >veritas-4-way-speed-clamp
on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/31162-veritas-4-way-speed-clamp
It is the quickest and easiest clamps I have found.
Since it is basically 1/4-20 threaded rod with the corner clamps, the
system can be expanded with a visit to the hardware store.
Similar systems area available in many places
I have used the system on some quite large frames up to 40" on a side.
As with any frame it is critical that the opposite sides be the exact
length.
I have also used the system to make boxes. I use one set near the
bottom of the sides and a second set near the top.
Once the corner are lined up exactly, the miter angle do the squaring up
the the frame. I always check using a simple square.
I would recommend the system to any one making any thing similar.
Initial cost is similar to other systems. (about $35/set) and since it
breaks down completely storage is simple.
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other'sI do a lot of picture frames and have made some boxes using this clamp' veritas-4-way-speed-clamp
thoughts on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/clamps/31162-veritas-4-way-speed-clamp
It is the quickest and easiest clamps I have found.
Since it is basically 1/4-20 threaded rod with the corner clamps, the system can be expanded with a visit to the hardware store.
Similar systems area available in many places
I have used the system on some quite large frames up to 40" on a side.
As with any frame it is critical that the opposite sides be the exact
length.
I have also used the system to make boxes.  I use one set near the
bottom of the sides and a second set near the top.
Once the corner are lined up exactly, the miter angle do the squaring up
the the frame. I always check using a simple square.
I would recommend the system to any one making any thing similar.
Initial cost is similar to other systems. (about $35/set) and since it
breaks down completely storage is simple.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 12:30:48 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
Most of the 1 & 2 star reviews complain that while the casing is aluminum, the gear is plastic and breaks under use.
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
On 2/10/2022 1:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 12:30:48 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
Most of the 1 & 2 star reviews complain that while the casing is aluminum, the gear is plastic and breaks under use.I could not argue with that but it works as advertised. It does what
the vast majority of these type corner clamps don't do, squeeze the
joint together.
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 6:06:35 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
I had the same thought.
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
I had the same thought.
The other thing I saw - but I don't build frames, so maybe it's not an
issue - was that they say (and show) that you have room to put a brad
in the outer corner. My question is this:
Without the clamp in the way wouldn't you use more than one brad? Is
one brad way out on the corner like they show enough?
On 2/10/2022 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 6:06:35 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
I had the same thought.
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
I had the same thought.
The other thing I saw - but I don't build frames, so maybe it's not an issue - was that they say (and show) that you have room to put a brad
in the outer corner. My question is this:
Without the clamp in the way wouldn't you use more than one brad? Is
one brad way out on the corner like they show enough?
One brad until the glue dries. Thank you Norm.
On Friday, February 11, 2022 at 10:07:35 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/10/2022 8:49 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 6:06:35 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>One brad until the glue dries. Thank you Norm.
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
I had the same thought.
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
I had the same thought.
The other thing I saw - but I don't build frames, so maybe it's not an
issue - was that they say (and show) that you have room to put a brad
in the outer corner. My question is this:
Without the clamp in the way wouldn't you use more than one brad? Is
one brad way out on the corner like they show enough?
I don't think I've ever seen Norm use *one* brad. ;-)
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:fits everytime with it.
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:fits everytime with it.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
On 2/12/2022 10:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other
angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to
fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two
pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using
wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with.
I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you
don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Even with the most costly equipment, or computer controlled saw cuts, IF
the opposite side are not the same length you will get bad miters.
If you have cut each of the sides to with in 1/32" of each other That difference is going to make a least 1/16" that is going to appear in one
of the miters.
When making frame I always cut opposite side together. I make the sides about a 1/4" proud, fasten them together use staples, I trim each end
until they are the proper length.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:fits everytime with it.
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >> >>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >> >>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >> >>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >> >>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 10:41:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:fits everytime with it.
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Ah Grasshopper...if the sides are not the same length have you
actually made a perfect miter?
Go now and ponder.
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:fits everytime with it.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
On 2/12/2022 11:51 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:fits everytime with it.
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 10:41:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Ah Grasshopper...if the sides are not the same length have you
actually made a perfect miter?
Go now and ponder.
Possibly. A perfect fit miter does not require corner joints to be
perfect if the pieces do not form an enclosure.
I often build/add mitered moldings around a piece of furniture that fits >against the wall. No back molding. The sides do not mate with a back >therefore they do not have to be precisely the same length for them to
fit perfectly to the front piece.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>perfect fits everytime with it.
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 12:18:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>perfect fits everytime with it.
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 11:51 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 10:41:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Ah Grasshopper...if the sides are not the same length have you
actually made a perfect miter?
Go now and ponder.
Possibly. A perfect fit miter does not require corner joints to be
perfect if the pieces do not form an enclosure.
I often build/add mitered moldings around a piece of furniture that fits
against the wall. No back molding. The sides do not mate with a back
therefore they do not have to be precisely the same length for them to
fit perfectly to the front piece.
A miter can be used in a straight line, too. The lengths don't have
to be the same length. ;-)
On 2/12/2022 12:30 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 12:18:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 11:51 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 10:41:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >>>>>>> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog. >>>>>>>>>
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >>>>> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Ah Grasshopper...if the sides are not the same length have you
actually made a perfect miter?
Go now and ponder.
Possibly. A perfect fit miter does not require corner joints to be
perfect if the pieces do not form an enclosure.
I often build/add mitered moldings around a piece of furniture that fits >>> against the wall. No back molding. The sides do not mate with a back
therefore they do not have to be precisely the same length for them to
fit perfectly to the front piece.
A miter can be used in a straight line, too. The lengths don't have
to be the same length. ;-)
Often used to stretch wood!
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other >>>>>>>> angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to >>>>>>>> fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two >>>>>>>> pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think
about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using
wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with.
I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you
don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with
it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the >painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
On 2/12/2022 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com >>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other >>>>>>>>> angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to >>>>>>>>> fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two >>>>>>>>> pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think >>>>>>> about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using
wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. >>>>> I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you
don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with >>>>> it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the
painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
And just to add a bit to finish carpenters work. Most use miter saws
and Festool saw the problem.
The finish carpenter is at the mercy of the framer and the dry wall crew.
When putting down base boards and or shoe moldings he has to deal with >corners that, 95% of the time, are not square. So the 45 degree setting
on the saw does not work perfectly. Here is where the painters caulk
comes into play. The Festook Kapex includes a miter/angle measure tool
to set the saw up for cuts that will actually fit the angle of the corner.
And not even that is fool proof because of the drywall guys not properly >muding and sanding.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 12:33:50 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>perfect fits everytime with it.
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:30 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 12:18:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 11:51 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 10:41:48 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >>>>>>>> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog. >>>>>>>>>>
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >>>>>> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Ah Grasshopper...if the sides are not the same length have you
actually made a perfect miter?
Go now and ponder.
Possibly. A perfect fit miter does not require corner joints to be
perfect if the pieces do not form an enclosure.
I often build/add mitered moldings around a piece of furniture that fits >>>> against the wall. No back molding. The sides do not mate with a back >>>> therefore they do not have to be precisely the same length for them to >>>> fit perfectly to the front piece.
A miter can be used in a straight line, too. The lengths don't have
to be the same length. ;-)
Often used to stretch wood!
I was going to use those words but thought someone might object. ;-)
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the >painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 12:40:57 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com >>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >>>>>>> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other >>>>>>>>>> angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to >>>>>>>>>> fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two >>>>>>>>>> pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog. >>>>>>>>>
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think >>>>>>>> about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using >>>>>> wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. >>>>>> I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you >>>>>> don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with >>>>>> it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >>>>> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the
painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
And just to add a bit to finish carpenters work. Most use miter saws
and Festool saw the problem.
The finish carpenter is at the mercy of the framer and the dry wall crew.
When putting down base boards and or shoe moldings he has to deal with
corners that, 95% of the time, are not square. So the 45 degree setting
on the saw does not work perfectly. Here is where the painters caulk
comes into play. The Festook Kapex includes a miter/angle measure tool
to set the saw up for cuts that will actually fit the angle of the corner. >>
And not even that is fool proof because of the drywall guys not properly
muding and sanding.
That may be a lost cause. It works for out of square corners but
doesn't work so well if they aren't planar, at least towards the
corner. A bump is going to screw everything up. Festool makes a tool
for that, too. ;-)
<https://www.festoolusa.com/products/illuminating/stl-450-inspection-light/201938---stl-450-usa#Overview>
On 2/12/2022 12:59 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 12:40:57 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com >>>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >>>>>>>> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other >>>>>>>>>>> angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to >>>>>>>>>>> fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two >>>>>>>>>>> pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog. >>>>>>>>>>
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think >>>>>>>>> about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using >>>>>>> wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. >>>>>>> I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you >>>>>>> don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with >>>>>>> it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >>>>>> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the >>>> painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
And just to add a bit to finish carpenters work. Most use miter saws
and Festool saw the problem.
The finish carpenter is at the mercy of the framer and the dry wall crew. >>>
When putting down base boards and or shoe moldings he has to deal with
corners that, 95% of the time, are not square. So the 45 degree setting >>> on the saw does not work perfectly. Here is where the painters caulk
comes into play. The Festook Kapex includes a miter/angle measure tool
to set the saw up for cuts that will actually fit the angle of the corner. >>>
And not even that is fool proof because of the drywall guys not properly >>> muding and sanding.
That may be a lost cause. It works for out of square corners but
doesn't work so well if they aren't planar, at least towards the
corner. A bump is going to screw everything up. Festool makes a tool
for that, too. ;-)
<https://www.festoolusa.com/products/illuminating/stl-450-inspection-light/201938---stl-450-usa#Overview>
I don't think you will ever see a drywall crew use one of those, they
depend on their texturing guy to hide their ills.
I have seen a lamp, like that one, used to show imperfections in sanding >wood.
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:fits everytime with it.
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
On 2/12/2022 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com >>>> wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other >>>>>>>> angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to >>>>>>>> fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two >>>>>>>> pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think >>>>>> about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using
wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. >>>> I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you
don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with >>>> it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.And just to add a bit to finish carpenters work. Most use miter saws
and Festool saw the problem.
The finish carpenter is at the mercy of the framer and the dry wall crew.
When putting down base boards and or shoe moldings he has to deal with corners that, 95% of the time, are not square. So the 45 degree setting
on the saw does not work perfectly. Here is where the painters caulk
comes into play. The Festook Kapex includes a miter/angle measure tool
to set the saw up for cuts that will actually fit the angle of the corner.
And not even that is fool proof because of the drywall guys not properly muding and sanding.
On 2/12/2022 10:41 AM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com
wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other
angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit >>>>>>> the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two
pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using
wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I
have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't
cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Even with the most costly equipment, or computer controlled saw cuts,
IF the opposite side are not the same length you will get bad miters.
If you have cut each of the sides to with in 1/32" of each other That >difference is going to make a least 1/16" that is going to appear in one
of the miters.
When making frame I always cut opposite side together. I make the sides >about a 1/4" proud, fasten them together use staples, I trim each end
until they are the proper length.
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:fits everytime with it.
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >> >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >> >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >> >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >> >>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets on bothWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly. It's
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisperfect fits everytime with it.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >> >>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >> >>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >> >>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >> >> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >> >> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets on bothWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly. It's
You mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >> >>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >> >>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >> >>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >> >> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >> >> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >> >> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
s a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets on bothWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly. It'
You mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> >> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >> >> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >> >>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >> >>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
It's a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets onWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly.
at all the choices there, the Bessey strap clamp caught my eye. Hmmm. marked down to under $20. What the heck. I ordered two so I could get same day free shipping. They were on my door step 4 hours later (Oh the advantages of having an Amazon warehouse 5You mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).
All this talk about clamping miters got me to thinking and wanting to try other approaches suggested here. I almost ordered the Lee valley frame clamp as described here. I wanted it quicker than Lee Valley can deliver, so searched Amazon. While looking<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
Comments and critiques welsome.
Bob
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 12:41:10 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:32 PM, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:And just to add a bit to finish carpenters work. Most use miter saws
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 09:41:38 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com >>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >>>>>>> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other >>>>>>>>>> angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. >>>>>>>>>> These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >>>>>>>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to >>>>>>>>>> fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two >>>>>>>>>> pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog. >>>>>>>>>
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think >>>>>>>> about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >>>>>>>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >>>>>>>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment >>>>>>> for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >>>>>>> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >>>>>>> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >>>>>>> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using >>>>>> wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. >>>>>> I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you >>>>>> don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect fits everytime with >>>>>> it.
While it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >>>>> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >>>>> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Tell that to finish carpenters (think: crown molding).
I think, actually I know, that finish carpenters actually depend on the
painters to caulk and close the miters.
And in many cases there is no miter at all on an inside corner.
and Festool saw the problem.
The finish carpenter is at the mercy of the framer and the dry wall crew.
When putting down base boards and or shoe moldings he has to deal with
corners that, 95% of the time, are not square. So the 45 degree setting
on the saw does not work perfectly. Here is where the painters caulk
comes into play. The Festook Kapex includes a miter/angle measure tool
to set the saw up for cuts that will actually fit the angle of the corner. >>
And not even that is fool proof because of the drywall guys not properly
muding and sanding.
Pssst! Hey buddy, wanta buy some woodpecker steel angle clamps cheap?
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:fits everytime with it.
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or >>>>>>> bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >>>>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all. >>>>>>> Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about >>>>> it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make perfect
s a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets on bothWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly. It'
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >> > >> >>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >> > >> >>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >> > >> >>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >> > >> >> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >> > >> >> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >> > >> >> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
s a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets on bothWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >> > >> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly. It'
looking at all the choices there, the Bessey strap clamp caught my eye. Hmmm. marked down to under $20. What the heck. I ordered two so I could get same day free shipping. They were on my door step 4 hours later (Oh the advantages of having an AmazonYou mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>
All this talk about clamping miters got me to thinking and wanting to try other approaches suggested here. I almost ordered the Lee valley frame clamp as described here. I wanted it quicker than Lee Valley can deliver, so searched Amazon. While
Comments and critiques welsome.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever. >> > >> >>>>> Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would >> > >> >>>>> think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND
PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have. >> > >> >>>
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
you!
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to >> > >> >> the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock >> > >> >> it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is >> > >> >> going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
s a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets on bothWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame >> > >> be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same
length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly. It'
looking at all the choices there, the Bessey strap clamp caught my eye. Hmmm. marked down to under $20. What the heck. I ordered two so I could get same day free shipping. They were on my door step 4 hours later (Oh the advantages of having an AmazonYou mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>
All this talk about clamping miters got me to thinking and wanting to try other approaches suggested here. I almost ordered the Lee valley frame clamp as described here. I wanted it quicker than Lee Valley can deliver, so searched Amazon. While
Comments and critiques welsome.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 15:19:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisperfect fits everytime with it.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> > On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> > >> >> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >> > >> >> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >> > >> >>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
It's a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets onWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >> > >> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly.
looking at all the choices there, the Bessey strap clamp caught my eye. Hmmm. marked down to under $20. What the heck. I ordered two so I could get same day free shipping. They were on my door step 4 hours later (Oh the advantages of having an AmazonYou mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>
All this talk about clamping miters got me to thinking and wanting to try other approaches suggested here. I almost ordered the Lee valley frame clamp as described here. I wanted it quicker than Lee Valley can deliver, so searched Amazon. While
Comments and critiques welsome.Hmm again. $19.36 for one or $51.60 for two. Maybe I'll buy a
four-pack. ;-0
On Monday, February 14, 2022 at 1:06:37 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:perfect fits everytime with it.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 15:19:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> > On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> >> > >> >> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >> >> > >> >> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >> >> > >> >>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
It's a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets onWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >> >> > >> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly.
looking at all the choices there, the Bessey strap clamp caught my eye. Hmmm. marked down to under $20. What the heck. I ordered two so I could get same day free shipping. They were on my door step 4 hours later (Oh the advantages of having an AmazonYou mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>
All this talk about clamping miters got me to thinking and wanting to try other approaches suggested here. I almost ordered the Lee valley frame clamp as described here. I wanted it quicker than Lee Valley can deliver, so searched Amazon. While
Hmm again. $19.36 for one or $51.60 for two. Maybe I'll buy a
Comments and critiques welsome.
four-pack. ;-0
Not sure I get the joke.
My order for a pair came to $41.82 after tax of $3.10. Could having Prime
be the difference?
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 15:19:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisperfect fits everytime with it.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 12:21:11 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:42:37 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> > On Sat, 12 Feb 2022 21:34:10 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 12, 2022 at 9:41:48 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/12/2022 12:17 AM, Bob Davis wrote:
On Thursday, February 10, 2022 at 5:06:35 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 10 Feb 2022 11:30:35 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> > >> >> wrote:
On 2/9/2022 11:29 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:Expensive? It's only $100. Four for $400. Such a deal I have for >> > >> >> you!
Snip
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I laughed too. I thought I was looking at a Rockler catalog.
Well speaking of Rockler. I just now saw this. You have to think about
it a bit to understand how this actually works as described. AND >> > >> >>> PRICEY! But if making a lot of frames a set might be good to have.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qXf4W3mFfb8
The two things that got me was bragging about the 1-degree adjustment
for miters that "weren't perfect". OK, what happens when you get to
the opposite corner?
The other thing was the tear-out on the cuts. They didn't even knock
it off with a swipe of sandpaper, though on a dark frame nothing is
going to fix it.
Using a clamp to correct imperfect miter is about as good as using wood filler to cover the gap. Make the miter perfect to begin with. I have one of those ancient cast iron miter slicing tools. If you don't cut off your fingers, you can make
It's a tool that virtually no one would have unless they run a framing business. I bought it for $25 on ebay and had the blades professionally sharpened. I was making wet canvass carriers for my wife, which are like tiny picture frames with insets onWhile it is important to make miter cuts dead on for a tight fit,
equally important is that the lengths of the opposite sides of a frame
be precisely the same length. If the opposite sides are not the same >> > >> length a perfect miter will not close properly.
Opposite side equal length requirement is well known. My comment about the perfect miter meant making a cut 45.0 degrees with clean, sharp edges. The miter slicer does that, leaving faces that require no cleanup or other touches before assembly.
looking at all the choices there, the Bessey strap clamp caught my eye. Hmmm. marked down to under $20. What the heck. I ordered two so I could get same day free shipping. They were on my door step 4 hours later (Oh the advantages of having an AmazonYou mean like this (even Rockler sells them ;-).Yes, that is what it looks like. That's the made overseas copy. Mine is the original Made-in-USA version (has not been made here for years).
<https://www.rockler.com/miter-trimmer>
All this talk about clamping miters got me to thinking and wanting to try other approaches suggested here. I almost ordered the Lee valley frame clamp as described here. I wanted it quicker than Lee Valley can deliver, so searched Amazon. While
Comments and critiques welsome.Hmm. I'd tried band clamps before but had always found them more
problem than they were worth. It seemed that I always needed another
hand or three to clamp where I wanted. Maybe I'll try them some time.
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughtsFor mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp
for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle
but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you
still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why
the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool
simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other
type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at
the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things
in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts
are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight
stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other'sFor mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
thoughts on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by
various companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in
clamping assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional
clamp for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a
specific angle but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint
tightly. So, you still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight
one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning.
Why the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This
tool simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any
other type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only
using these type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not
properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they
have teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together
tightly at the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold
things in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to
the table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree
cuts are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold
straight stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other
angles. And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a
PIA. These clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking
lever. Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge
and or bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I
would think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to
fit the way your work goes together. And then why bother using them
at all. Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold
two pieces of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting
the pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The
key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.
 I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should work: https://tinyurl.com/yc3d68dv
I never used it however.
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughts
on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp
for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why
the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at
the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things
in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts
are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?For mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The
key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.
I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should work: https://tinyurl.com/yc3d68dv
I never used it however.
On 2/17/2022 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughts >>> on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioningFor mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered >>> that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various >>> companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping >>> assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp >>> for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle >>> but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you
still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why >>> the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool
simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other >>> type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these >>> type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have >>> teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at >>> the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things >>> in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts
are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight >>> stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>> of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the >>> pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The
key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.
I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should work: >> https://tinyurl.com/yc3d68dv
I never used it however.
I don't think that jig will work.
It looks like the G-clamps are two different colors. If it's justI just noticed the "G" designation. I have never known those clamps to
the lighting, then you should be good to go.
be anything other then "C" clamps.
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughts >>> on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioningFor mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered
that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various >>> companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping
assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp
for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle >>> but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you
still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why
the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool
simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other
type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these >>> type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have >>> teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at
the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things >>> in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts
are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight
stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles.
And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These
clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the
way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces
of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the
pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The
key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.
I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should work:
https://tinyurl.com/yc3d68dv
I never used it however.
I don't think that jig will work.
It looks like the G-clamps are two different colors. If it's just
the lighting, then you should be good to go.
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 12:50:21 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/17/2022 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:I just noticed the "G" designation. I have never known those clamps to
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other's thoughts >>>>> on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioningFor mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered >>>>> that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by various >>>>> companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping >>>>> assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp >>>>> for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific angle >>>>> but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you >>>>> still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why >>>>> the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool >>>>> simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other >>>>> type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using these >>>>> type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed. >>>>>
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull >>>>> the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they have >>>>> teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at >>>>> the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold things >>>>> in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts >>>>> are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight >>>>> stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>>> of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the >>>>> pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The
key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.
I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should work: >>>> https://tinyurl.com/yc3d68dv
I never used it however.
I don't think that jig will work.
It looks like the G-clamps are two different colors. If it's just
the lighting, then you should be good to go.
be anything other then "C" clamps.
When fully open, it's a C-clamp. Once you turn the screw up a little ways,
it becomes a G-clamp. ;-)
Even Wikipedia doesn't know what to call it. Maybe the C comes from the
shape of the body or maybe the C comes from the original name: Carriage
Clamp or maybe Wikipedia is wrong.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C-clamp#cite_note-G-clamp-1
On 2/17/2022 10:34 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 9:12:16 AM UTC-5, Jack wrote:
On 2/9/2022 12:07 PM, Leon wrote:
So It is quiet here and I thought I would inquire about other'sFor mitered picture frames I simply pin nailed the joints and let the
thoughts
on these tools. In another thread we were briefly mentioning
Woodpeckers tools and I think we are seeing another tool being offered >>>> that rally serves no purpose.
There are numerous varieties of corner clamping tools offered by
various
companies. And I have never felt that they actually helped in clamping >>>> assembly.
My experience has been that they do not eliminate the traditional clamp >>>> for mating parts. I see that they do hold the parts at a specific
angle
but do little to nothing as far as closing the joint tightly. So, you >>>> still need regular clamps to make that joint a tight one.
Having said that I have Baltic birch clamping squares that I use to
check squatness of a joint. On occasion I use them to hold a joint
square after I have used my traditional clamps to close the joint.
If a joint is cut correctly, it is self squaring. and or aligning. Why >>>> the need for something like the new Woodpeckers VaryClamp? This tool >>>> simply holds the angle of the parts but does not pull the parts
together. These type clamps seldom are shown being used with any other >>>> type clamp. And with that in mind, I can tell you that only using
these
type clamps will result in a weak joint that is not properly closed.
That said I have seen a couple of corner clamps that do actually pull
the joints together. One style is aimed at picture frames and they
have
teeth that dig into the mating parts and pulls them together tightly at >>>> the joint.
For the most part, the right angle clamping squares can help hold
things
in alignment for certain conditions. But they bring nothing to the
table to make the closure of the joint tight. AND most 90 degree cuts >>>> are easy to replicate time and again so these type clamps hold straight >>>> stock square while using traditional clamps to close the joint.
The Woodpeckers VaryAngle clamps are designed to aid with other angles. >>>> And these clamps have me scratching my head thinking what a PIA. These >>>> clamps have a relatively coarse degree scale and locking lever.
Hopefully this scale agrees with the one on your miter gauge and or
bevel on your saw. If not, you have introduced a problem. I would
think never use the degree scale on the clamp and adjust it to fit the >>>> way your work goes together. And then why bother using them at all.
Again they do not pull the joint together, they simply hold two pieces >>>> of work at a specific angle.
I could actually see using this type clamp with metal work, getting the >>>> pieces close and filling the gap with a weld.
https://www.woodpeck.com/varyangle-clamping-fixture.html
Thoughts?
glue dry. Other goofy devices never worked enough to bother with. The
key is always having a perfectly square joint to start with.
I did save a picture of this homemade jig that looks like it should
work:
https://tinyurl.com/yc3d68dv
I never used it however.
I don't think that jig will work.
It looks like the G-clamps are two different colors. If it's just
the lighting, then you should be good to go.
I just noticed the "G" designation. I have never known those clamps toI noticed it immediately but figured it was either a typo or he mumbled
be anything other then "C" clamps.
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