I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint canvas. What kind of glue do you think would be best?
Bob
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint canvas. What kind of glue do you think would be best?
Bob
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint canvas. What kind of glue do you think would be best?
On Thu, 20 Jan 2022 05:45:00 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint canvas. What kind of glue do you think would be best?
While the conventional answer is "epoxy", try dripping some Titebond
III onto a piece of your bandsaw blade and letting it dry. Make sure
the blade is clean and oil-free first. If it sticks to your blade
like it sticks to my clamps I think you'll find it quite sufficient.
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint canvas. What kind of glue do you think would be best?
On Thu, 20 Jan 2022 05:45:00 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint canvas. What kind of glue do you think would be best?Wood and steel have very different coefficients of expansion in
response to variations of temperature and of humidity. No rigid glue
will long hold. You'll need some rivets, like the handles on knives.
And that's where I'd look - there are lots of suppliers of
knife-making raw materials.
Joe Gwinn
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The >teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint >canvas. What >kind of glue do you think would be best?
"Bob Davis" wrote in message
news:76e52cbd-20bc-4e19...@googlegroups.com...
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany. The >teeth of the blade will be exposed to grip an artist's paint >canvas. What >kind of glue do you think would be best?How big is this to be? How much pressure will be on it? How thick is the mahogany? I'm trying to understand the demands on the joint...
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
On 1/21/2022 10:47 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com
wrote:
I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth
per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2
inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd
poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the
steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade.  The foam-up will fill
voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might.
Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a
thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with
water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure;
sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
It occurred to me that small wedges (splines?) might work well. One
could even cut the metal to somehow accept the spline. Glue the wood splines in place and it should last forever. If there is not enough
wood present, add more! ; )
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double sided
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
Bob
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double sided
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
BobG/flex or a different West System product?
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:47:23 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:sided tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
BobG/flex or a different West System product?
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/I used gflex. Your comments are opening up a whole world to me. I was not aware of all the fillers and applications for west systems. This warrants some exploration.
Bob
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:19:35 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:sided tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:47:23 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
BobG/flex or a different West System product?
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/I used gflex. Your comments are opening up a whole world to me. I was not aware of all the fillers and applications for west systems. This warrants some exploration.
BobEpoxy is magic! ;-)
When I was building Soap Box Derby cars we used gallons of it.
In the image below, the fillets (flairs) where the axles enter the body were made from West System 205/105 epoxy mix and the 407 filler.
The entire body was built to be 3/8" below the minimum girth allowed and then wrapped in 3 layers of fiberglass mat and 205/105 epoxy to bring it back
up to the minimum spec. It was then baked in a black trailer in the 90° heat for
3 days to achieve maximum hardness. No amount of rough track is going to twist the body and temperature/humidity changes will have virtually no impact.
Yes, my son is in the car. ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/IOQt88q.jpg
A trick we used to use is to spread some Vaseline on any area where you don't
want the epoxy to stick. That way you can build up areas and not have to be exact.
e.g. if you want to bury a nut into a recess, put Vaseline on the bolt, put it in the
threads and just pour your epoxy over the nut. Once it cures, just unscrew the
bolt and you'll have a hole that leads down into the threads.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 9:08:26 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:sided tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:19:35 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote: >> > On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:47:23 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
Good Caraubu wax works too as a "release ent" and is less likely toEpoxy is magic! ;-)I used gflex. Your comments are opening up a whole world to me. I was not aware of all the fillers and applications for west systems. This warrants some exploration.G/flex or a different West System product?
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
Bob
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/
Bob
When I was building Soap Box Derby cars we used gallons of it.
In the image below, the fillets (flairs) where the axles enter the body were >> made from West System 205/105 epoxy mix and the 407 filler.
The entire body was built to be 3/8" below the minimum girth allowed and
then wrapped in 3 layers of fiberglass mat and 205/105 epoxy to bring it back
up to the minimum spec. It was then baked in a black trailer in the 90° heat for
3 days to achieve maximum hardness. No amount of rough track is going to
twist the body and temperature/humidity changes will have virtually no impact.
Yes, my son is in the car. ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/IOQt88q.jpg
A trick we used to use is to spread some Vaseline on any area where you don't
want the epoxy to stick. That way you can build up areas and not have to be exact.
e.g. if you want to bury a nut into a recess, put Vaseline on the bolt, put it in the
threads and just pour your epoxy over the nut. Once it cures, just unscrew the
bolt and you'll have a hole that leads down into the threads.
I like this magic. I downloaded the west systems user manual to educate myself.
Bob
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:35:51 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisdouble sided tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 9:08:26 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:19:35 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:47:23 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
Epoxy is magic! ;-)I used gflex. Your comments are opening up a whole world to me. I was not aware of all the fillers and applications for west systems. This warrants some exploration.G/flex or a different West System product?
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
Bob
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/
Bob
When I was building Soap Box Derby cars we used gallons of it.
In the image below, the fillets (flairs) where the axles enter the body were
made from West System 205/105 epoxy mix and the 407 filler.
The entire body was built to be 3/8" below the minimum girth allowed and >> then wrapped in 3 layers of fiberglass mat and 205/105 epoxy to bring it back
up to the minimum spec. It was then baked in a black trailer in the 90° heat for
3 days to achieve maximum hardness. No amount of rough track is going to >> twist the body and temperature/humidity changes will have virtually no impact.
Yes, my son is in the car. ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/IOQt88q.jpg
A trick we used to use is to spread some Vaseline on any area where you don't
want the epoxy to stick. That way you can build up areas and not have to be exact.
e.g. if you want to bury a nut into a recess, put Vaseline on the bolt, put it in the
threads and just pour your epoxy over the nut. Once it cures, just unscrew the
bolt and you'll have a hole that leads down into the threads.
I like this magic. I downloaded the west systems user manual to educate myself.
BobGood Caraubu wax works too as a "release ent" and is less likely to
affect the epoxy.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:47:23 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:sided tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
G/flex or a different West System product?
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
Bob
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/
I used gflex. Your comments are opening up a whole world to me. I was not aware of all the fillers and applications for west systems. This warrants some exploration.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 04:19:33 -0800 (PST), Bob Davissided tape to attach a wooden piece to the saw blade that acted as a depth stop. Before gluing, I used frog tape to mask off both sides of each blade to minimize glue runs on the wood. Here are pictures of the prep and final result.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 2:47:23 PM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 3:31:11 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 9:47:43 PM UTC-6, whit3rd wrote:
On Friday, January 21, 2022 at 11:11:56 AM UTC-8, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:Thanks to all for various suggestions and advice. I completed this aspect of the project. I used West Systems epoxy. The metal blades cannot be loosened, even with a hammer. I used a Japanese cross cut saw to cut the thin grooves. I used double
I understand your valid questions. The metal is a 1/2" wide 12 tooth per inch bandsaw blade. Pieces of the blade, approximately 1 1/2 inches long are embedded about 1/4 inch deep cross-grain...I need to glue pieces of a bandsaw blade into thin slots in mahogany.
For short lengths, wood expansion ought not to be a big problem; I'd poke some polyurethane
(Gorilla Glue of the classic type) into the slot, wipe glue on the steel blade, then mist with water
to start the cure, and insert the blade. The foam-up will fill voids, and it doesn't soak
into the endgrain of the wood like a water-based adhesive might. Even just some
plaster of paris would probably work.
The thin kerf that you'd want to insert the blade into, won't allow a thick glue to flow well,
and most water-based types are suboptimal in contact with water-thirsty endgrain.
Mahogany is somewhat resinous, test the glue on scraps to be sure; sometimes resin interferes
with paint or glue chemistry
G/flex or a different West System product?
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGLLXGLGb9zML
Bob
In any case, consider getting some filler to have on hand.
I always have a couple of different types on the shelf.
https://www.westsystem.com/filler-selection-guide/
I used gflex. Your comments are opening up a whole world to me. I was not aware of all the fillers and applications for west systems. This warrants some exploration.Ditto. Is it mail order only? Some of that stuff can be a problem
with shipping.
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