I have owned both a Pentax KX DSLR and a Samsung S630 p&s for a number
of years. Recently, I began to sell coins from an estate. I wanted to
capture the best photos possible, so brought out the Pentax and set it
up on a tripod while not even considering the S630 because I was almost
certain that the KX photos would be superior (I mean, that's the whole
point between RAW versus JPG files right?(S630 only offers JPG)).
However....

I was wrong! The S630 has consistently produced better images. Just
why, I'm not certain. Maybe you could tell me. I use the same lighting
set ups for both. I don't even use the tripod with the 630 and get
sharper photos. With the Pentax, I can't even seem to get it to focus
properly if, for example, I am doing image focus stacking in order to
show the depth of a coin from the side. I've even tried to set the
focus points manually, I get the beep confirmation, and then I'll still
have a section out of focus. And the entire image isn't as sharp as the
630. I've tried various F stops with the KX and will still end up with
a softer image.

The 630, on the other hand, produces sharper images. Technically, its resolution is only half that of the KX (6 MB max versus 12 MB for the
KX), but, even so, I continue to be impressed. I can't figure out why
the contrast is better and the autofocus doesn't struggle like the KX
does. Only drawback is that I can't set the focus point manually (that
I know of), so have to move over various coin sections to try to get a
capture of the area needed. Much to my surprise, the resulting JPGs are
often workable in Photoshop. I can even sharpen them quite a bit
without introducing noise. I've gone through three S630's over the
years. When one goes bad (usually the flash), I toss it and order
another from eBay for about $10.

At this point, I'm about to put away the Pentax. Just seems not quite
right that the puny 630 should be doing so much better.

Ace

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 29/03/2022 15:57, Ace Crysler wrote:

I have owned both a Pentax KX DSLR and a Samsung S630 p&s for a number
of years. Recently, I began to sell coins from an estate. I wanted to capture the best photos possible, so brought out the Pentax and set it
up on a tripod while not even considering the S630 because I was almost certain that the KX photos would be superior (I mean, that's the whole
point between RAW versus JPG files right?(S630 only offers JPG)).
However....

I was wrong! The S630 has consistently produced better images. Just
why, I'm not certain. Maybe you could tell me. I use the same lighting
set ups for both. I don't even use the tripod with the 630 and get
sharper photos. With the Pentax, I can't even seem to get it to focus properly if, for example, I am doing image focus stacking in order to
show the depth of a coin from the side. I've even tried to set the
focus points manually, I get the beep confirmation, and then I'll still
have a section out of focus. And the entire image isn't as sharp as the
630. I've tried various F stops with the KX and will still end up with
a softer image.

The 630, on the other hand, produces sharper images. Technically, its resolution is only half that of the KX (6 MB max versus 12 MB for the
KX), but, even so, I continue to be impressed. I can't figure out why
the contrast is better and the autofocus doesn't struggle like the KX
does. Only drawback is that I can't set the focus point manually (that
I know of), so have to move over various coin sections to try to get a capture of the area needed. Much to my surprise, the resulting JPGs are often workable in Photoshop. I can even sharpen them quite a bit
without introducing noise. I've gone through three S630's over the
years. When one goes bad (usually the flash), I toss it and order
another from eBay for about $10.

At this point, I'm about to put away the Pentax. Just seems not quite
right that the puny 630 should be doing so much better.

Ace

It sounds as if you're not getting the best from the Pentax, but if it was faulty you would know, I'm sure.

My own experience has been with much more recent phones, and with the Google Pixel 6 Pro my micro-four-thirds DSLR usage has dropped to virtually zero. Yes, there are times when it would give better results, but not a lot better. With the sort of photography you describe I would expect the Panasonic to do better.
Any chance you would try a different lens on the Pentax?

--
Cheers,
David
Web: http://www.satsignal.eu

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mar 29, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t1v6op$8m2$1@dont-email.me>):

I have owned both a Pentax KX DSLR and a Samsung S630 p&s for a number
of years. Recently, I began to sell coins from an estate. I wanted to
capture the best photos possible, so brought out the Pentax and set it
up on a tripod while not even considering the S630 because I was almost certain that the KX photos would be superior (I mean, that's the whole
point between RAW versus JPG files right?(S630 only offers JPG)).
However....

I was wrong! The S630 has consistently produced better images. Just
why, I'm not certain. Maybe you could tell me. I use the same lighting
set ups for both. I don't even use the tripod with the 630 and get
sharper photos. With the Pentax, I can't even seem to get it to focus properly if, for example, I am doing image focus stacking in order to
show the depth of a coin from the side. I've even tried to set the
focus points manually, I get the beep confirmation, and then I'll still
have a section out of focus. And the entire image isn't as sharp as the
630. I've tried various F stops with the KX and will still end up with
a softer image.

The 630, on the other hand, produces sharper images. Technically, its resolution is only half that of the KX (6 MB max versus 12 MB for the
KX), but, even so, I continue to be impressed. I can't figure out why
the contrast is better and the autofocus doesn't struggle like the KX
does. Only drawback is that I can't set the focus point manually (that
I know of), so have to move over various coin sections to try to get a capture of the area needed. Much to my surprise, the resulting JPGs are
often workable in Photoshop. I can even sharpen them quite a bit
without introducing noise. I've gone through three S630's over the
years. When one goes bad (usually the flash), I toss it and order
another from eBay for about $10.

At this point, I'm about to put away the Pentax. Just seems not quite
right that the puny 630 should be doing so much better.

Ace

I don’t think you’ve posted here before, so no one is going to know your level of knowledge. What AF mode are you using? What camera mode? What lens?
Is it clean? Are you sure you are beyond the minimum focus distance of that lens? What aperture and ISO? Are you sure the camera is actually focusing exactly where you want it to? And JPG’s can easily look better than unprocessed raw files, until you process those raws. That Pentax is a bit
old, but should still take very good photos.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

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--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mar 29, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t1vcgn$pgq$1@dont-email.me>):

On 3/29/22 11:44, Bill W wrote:

On Mar 29, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t1v6op$8m2$1@dont-email.me>):

I have owned both a Pentax KX DSLR and a Samsung S630 p&s for a number
of years. Recently, I began to sell coins from an estate. I wanted to capture the best photos possible, so brought out the Pentax and set it
up on a tripod while not even considering the S630 because I was almost certain that the KX photos would be superior (I mean, that's the whole point between RAW versus JPG files right?(S630 only offers JPG)). However....

I was wrong! The S630 has consistently produced better images. Just
why, I'm not certain. Maybe you could tell me. I use the same lighting set ups for both. I don't even use the tripod with the 630 and get sharper photos. With the Pentax, I can't even seem to get it to focus properly if, for example, I am doing image focus stacking in order to show the depth of a coin from the side. I've even tried to set the
focus points manually, I get the beep confirmation, and then I'll still have a section out of focus. And the entire image isn't as sharp as the 630. I've tried various F stops with the KX and will still end up with
a softer image.

The 630, on the other hand, produces sharper images. Technically, its resolution is only half that of the KX (6 MB max versus 12 MB for the KX), but, even so, I continue to be impressed. I can't figure out why
the contrast is better and the autofocus doesn't struggle like the KX does. Only drawback is that I can't set the focus point manually (that
I know of), so have to move over various coin sections to try to get a capture of the area needed. Much to my surprise, the resulting JPGs are often workable in Photoshop. I can even sharpen them quite a bit
without introducing noise. I've gone through three S630's over the
years. When one goes bad (usually the flash), I toss it and order
another from eBay for about $10.

At this point, I'm about to put away the Pentax. Just seems not quite right that the puny 630 should be doing so much better.

Ace

I don’t think you’ve posted here before, so no one is going to know your
level of knowledge. What AF mode are you using? What camera mode? What lens?
Is it clean? Are you sure you are beyond the minimum focus distance of that lens? What aperture and ISO? Are you sure the camera is actually focusing exactly where you want it to? And JPG’s can easily look better than unprocessed raw files, until you process those raws. That Pentax is a bit old, but should still take very good photos.

Ok, so I'll concentrate on the Pentax since that is the camera in
question. To answer your questions: I have tried both spot and multi AF modes, both auto and manual. I've even adjusted the manual for
positioning on screen to focus on specific spots. AF is set to auto currently, but I have also tried manual to no avail. I am using the
original kit lens. I do have telephoto lenses such as 135 and 200 mm,
but that would complicate matters as they would place the coin-lens
distance too far away for me to be able to adjust the lighting properly.
I also have a 50mm Pentax prime lens I have not tried for this. I
wouldn't think that I would receive a beep confirmation if in auto focus
if it wasn't focused(?). I use various apertures. For coins, I've
tried to stick around F13 or so, but I have tried down to F5.6 and
attempted to do more focusing of certain sections since there's not as
much focus available. ISO is always set to 200 or less. I also never
quite get the same coloring or contrast of the Samsung, the latter of
which always has better of each. Perhaps it's the original kit lens,
but I would think stopped down as I do that performance would be better.

I would at least try the 50mm lens to eliminate that. What is the shutter speed, and are you using the tripod with the Pentax? And does the KX have a focus indicator that shows exactly where it is focusing? And are you
processing the raw files before you compare? If not, try some jpg’s on the Pentax. Other than what I’ve already said, I have no other ideas.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

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--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

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DQo=

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mar 29, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t1vdvo$6k9$1@dont-email.me>):

On 3/29/22 12:52, Bill W wrote:

On Mar 29, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t1vcgn$pgq$1@dont-email.me>):

On 3/29/22 11:44, Bill W wrote:

On Mar 29, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t1v6op$8m2$1@dont-email.me>):

I have owned both a Pentax KX DSLR and a Samsung S630 p&s for a number
of years. Recently, I began to sell coins from an estate. I wanted to capture the best photos possible, so brought out the Pentax and set it
up on a tripod while not even considering the S630 because I was almost
certain that the KX photos would be superior (I mean, that's the whole
point between RAW versus JPG files right?(S630 only offers JPG)). However....

I was wrong! The S630 has consistently produced better images. Just why, I'm not certain. Maybe you could tell me. I use the same lighting
set ups for both. I don't even use the tripod with the 630 and get sharper photos. With the Pentax, I can't even seem to get it to focus properly if, for example, I am doing image focus stacking in order to show the depth of a coin from the side. I've even tried to set the focus points manually, I get the beep confirmation, and then I'll still
have a section out of focus. And the entire image isn't as sharp as the
630. I've tried various F stops with the KX and will still end up with
a softer image.

The 630, on the other hand, produces sharper images. Technically, its resolution is only half that of the KX (6 MB max versus 12 MB for the KX), but, even so, I continue to be impressed. I can't figure out why the contrast is better and the autofocus doesn't struggle like the KX does. Only drawback is that I can't set the focus point manually (that
I know of), so have to move over various coin sections to try to get a
capture of the area needed. Much to my surprise, the resulting JPGs are
often workable in Photoshop. I can even sharpen them quite a bit without introducing noise. I've gone through three S630's over the years. When one goes bad (usually the flash), I toss it and order another from eBay for about $10.

At this point, I'm about to put away the Pentax. Just seems not quite right that the puny 630 should be doing so much better.

Ace

I don’t think you’ve posted here before, so no one is going to know your
level of knowledge. What AF mode are you using? What camera mode? What lens?
Is it clean? Are you sure you are beyond the minimum focus distance of that
lens? What aperture and ISO? Are you sure the camera is actually focusing
exactly where you want it to? And JPG’s can easily look better than unprocessed raw files, until you process those raws. That Pentax is a bit
old, but should still take very good photos.

Ok, so I'll concentrate on the Pentax since that is the camera in question. To answer your questions: I have tried both spot and multi AF modes, both auto and manual. I've even adjusted the manual for positioning on screen to focus on specific spots. AF is set to auto currently, but I have also tried manual to no avail. I am using the original kit lens. I do have telephoto lenses such as 135 and 200 mm,
but that would complicate matters as they would place the coin-lens distance too far away for me to be able to adjust the lighting properly. I also have a 50mm Pentax prime lens I have not tried for this. I wouldn't think that I would receive a beep confirmation if in auto focus if it wasn't focused(?). I use various apertures. For coins, I've
tried to stick around F13 or so, but I have tried down to F5.6 and attempted to do more focusing of certain sections since there's not as much focus available. ISO is always set to 200 or less. I also never quite get the same coloring or contrast of the Samsung, the latter of which always has better of each. Perhaps it's the original kit lens,
but I would think stopped down as I do that performance would be better.

I would at least try the 50mm lens to eliminate that. What is the shutter speed, and are you using the tripod with the Pentax? And does the KX have a focus indicator that shows exactly where it is focusing? And are you processing the raw files before you compare? If not, try some jpg’s on the
Pentax. Other than what I’ve already said, I have no other ideas.

I try to keep the shutter at least 1/500 to avoid shakes. On the tripod though, I can go less of course. Yes, I normally use a tripod with the
KX. I will have to see if it shows exactly where focusing, but I
usually zoom in to see where it is on live view. Yes, once the raws are processed, I see better quality with the Samsung. Perhaps I'll try the
50mm prime and see how it goes. I'm not holding my breath though.

In the past, I've used the Pentax for photographing insects down to the
macro level. I used tubes to move the lens away from the body if unable
to get close enough with current lenses. However, much of the time yet
again the Samsung was the winner with both better contrast, focus, and
color. I did actually use the 50mm prime for much of the insect work.

Regarding the contrast and color, that still goes back to raw vs jpg. Raw photos can look washed out compared to jpg’s, depending on the cameras. You should be able to process the raws to look at least as good as the jpg’s.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

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--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Tue, 29 Mar 2022 12:35:33 -0400, Ace Crysler <ace9000@hal.net>
wrote:

Ok, so I'll concentrate on the Pentax since that is the camera in
question. To answer your questions: I have tried both spot and multi AF >modes, both auto and manual. I've even adjusted the manual for
positioning on screen to focus on specific spots. AF is set to auto >currently, but I have also tried manual to no avail. I am using the
original kit lens. I do have telephoto lenses such as 135 and 200 mm,
but that would complicate matters as they would place the coin-lens
distance too far away for me to be able to adjust the lighting properly.
I also have a 50mm Pentax prime lens I have not tried for this. I
wouldn't think that I would receive a beep confirmation if in auto focus
if it wasn't focused(?). I use various apertures. For coins, I've
tried to stick around F13 or so, but I have tried down to F5.6 and
attempted to do more focusing of certain sections since there's not as
much focus available. ISO is always set to 200 or less. I also never
quite get the same coloring or contrast of the Samsung, the latter of
which always has better of each. Perhaps it's the original kit lens,
but I would think stopped down as I do that performance would be better.

There are SO MANY things wrong with that synopsis that I can't even
begin to debunk it.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 3/29/22 17:30, Still Bud wrote:

On Tue, 29 Mar 2022 12:35:33 -0400, Ace Crysler <ace9000@hal.net>
wrote:

Ok, so I'll concentrate on the Pentax since that is the camera in
question. To answer your questions: I have tried both spot and multi AF
modes, both auto and manual. I've even adjusted the manual for
positioning on screen to focus on specific spots. AF is set to auto
currently, but I have also tried manual to no avail. I am using the
original kit lens. I do have telephoto lenses such as 135 and 200 mm,
but that would complicate matters as they would place the coin-lens
distance too far away for me to be able to adjust the lighting properly.
I also have a 50mm Pentax prime lens I have not tried for this. I
wouldn't think that I would receive a beep confirmation if in auto focus
if it wasn't focused(?). I use various apertures. For coins, I've
tried to stick around F13 or so, but I have tried down to F5.6 and
attempted to do more focusing of certain sections since there's not as
much focus available. ISO is always set to 200 or less. I also never
quite get the same coloring or contrast of the Samsung, the latter of
which always has better of each. Perhaps it's the original kit lens,
but I would think stopped down as I do that performance would be better.

There are SO MANY things wrong with that synopsis that I can't even
begin to debunk it.

Such as?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Ok so, just for kicks, I decided to do almost everything "by the book"
with the Pentax DSLR this time around and see what result I would
achieve. I placed the camera on the tripod with the lens as parallel to
the coin's surface as possible. I used a couple of small bubble levels
to help. With a felt surface for the coin, even if the coin is
suspended a bit to help blur the black felt, it was still next to
impossible to achieve bullseye for both coin and camera since the felt
is uneven, but I got as close as I could. Then I brought my Jansjo
light as close to the lens as possible for the highest angle lighting I
could achieve. I never have used these lights (I have a pair of them)
because I never cared for their yellowish light, but went ahead anyway
and adjusted camera color balance which seemed to negate the effect. I
only used a single light getting it as close to the coin as possible
with as little shadowing on the coin's opposite side. With the felt,
you're not going to see shadow anyway, which is good (note that I have
normally been using a backlit light panel with coins placed directly on
top). Still using "kit" lens. I decided to try setting aperture
priority first, but wasn't happy with that and went to manual. F/8 and
shutter around 1/60 or so at 100 ISO. Everything in place, activate
shutter with 10s delay. I used the bulb both without diffusion and then
some shots with diffusion (milk carton plastic).

Results were promising. I can normally achieve similar lighting with
the Samsung, but I use a large 50 W LED spot light of course well
diffused and bright it up as close to the Samsung as possible around the
10 PM position. So, the Jansio, being much smaller, could be brought
even higher. It appears that more details could be seen in the
highlights than with the larger light. I suppose this could be a
workable system except the result still isn't as sharp as the Samsung
and also the bottom of the coin was just slightly out of focus. Barely detectable, but there when viewed at full size. Hard to believe I'd
still have that at F8. Maybe try to increase to F13 or so for next tests.

In Photoshop, the RAW was opened and most of the contrast appeared to be present with very little manipulation needed, which is different than
the norm. The color was close so did not have to be changed much.
Still had to apply some sharpening to get the sharpness to approach what
the Samsung achieves.

I guess maybe I could work with this technique a little more. Anything
to cut the processing a bit. I have a lot of coins and it takes too
long to have to apply curves, sharpening, etc in Photoshop for every
coin. I suppose I could use something like Lightroom, but I don't have
it.

I still think the Pentax suffers. I am now beginning to suspect the kit
lens as the cause. It offers poorer contrast and lack of sharpness
compared to a better lens. No $ to afford a better one which was why I
was thinking of a cheap Canon p&s with an already matched lens that
offered RAW capability. Used of course.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 30/03/2022 13:40, Ace Crysler wrote:

I still think the Pentax suffers. I am now beginning to suspect the kit
lens as the cause. It offers poorer contrast and lack of sharpness
compared to a better lens. No $ to afford a better one which was why I
was thinking of a cheap Canon p&s with an already matched lens that
offered RAW capability. Used of course.

Not that it helps, but I did find that with my Panasonic MFT, getting a macro lens was an great idea, and produces excellent results. It's a 60 mm,f/2.8 lens which gives a good working distance. Flat field, high quality etc.


https://www.olympus.co.uk/site/en/c/lenses/om_d_pen_lenses/m_zuiko/m_zuiko_digital_ed_60mm_1_2_8/index.html

Maybe you already have something similar - if not perhaps there's something on the second hand market. The "kit" lens will be as low a cost item as possible most likely, and will not be optimised for very close working.

--
Cheers,
David
Web: http://www.satsignal.eu

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mar 30, 2022, Ace Crysler wrote
(in article <t21j3c$40h$1@dont-email.me>):

Ok so, just for kicks, I decided to do almost everything "by the book"
with the Pentax DSLR this time around and see what result I would
achieve. I placed the camera on the tripod with the lens as parallel to
the coin's surface as possible. I used a couple of small bubble levels
to help. With a felt surface for the coin, even if the coin is
suspended a bit to help blur the black felt, it was still next to
impossible to achieve bullseye for both coin and camera since the felt
is uneven, but I got as close as I could. Then I brought my Jansjo
light as close to the lens as possible for the highest angle lighting I
could achieve. I never have used these lights (I have a pair of them)
because I never cared for their yellowish light, but went ahead anyway
and adjusted camera color balance which seemed to negate the effect. I
only used a single light getting it as close to the coin as possible
with as little shadowing on the coin's opposite side. With the felt,
you're not going to see shadow anyway, which is good (note that I have normally been using a backlit light panel with coins placed directly on
top). Still using "kit" lens. I decided to try setting aperture
priority first, but wasn't happy with that and went to manual. F/8 and shutter around 1/60 or so at 100 ISO. Everything in place, activate
shutter with 10s delay. I used the bulb both without diffusion and then
some shots with diffusion (milk carton plastic).

Results were promising. I can normally achieve similar lighting with
the Samsung, but I use a large 50 W LED spot light of course well
diffused and bright it up as close to the Samsung as possible around the
10 PM position. So, the Jansio, being much smaller, could be brought
even higher. It appears that more details could be seen in the
highlights than with the larger light. I suppose this could be a
workable system except the result still isn't as sharp as the Samsung
and also the bottom of the coin was just slightly out of focus. Barely detectable, but there when viewed at full size. Hard to believe I'd
still have that at F8. Maybe try to increase to F13 or so for next tests.

In Photoshop, the RAW was opened and most of the contrast appeared to be present with very little manipulation needed, which is different than
the norm. The color was close so did not have to be changed much.
Still had to apply some sharpening to get the sharpness to approach what
the Samsung achieves.

I guess maybe I could work with this technique a little more. Anything
to cut the processing a bit. I have a lot of coins and it takes too
long to have to apply curves, sharpening, etc in Photoshop for every
coin. I suppose I could use something like Lightroom, but I don't have
it.

I still think the Pentax suffers. I am now beginning to suspect the kit
lens as the cause. It offers poorer contrast and lack of sharpness
compared to a better lens. No $ to afford a better one which was why I
was thinking of a cheap Canon p&s with an already matched lens that
offered RAW capability. Used of course.

If you’ve gone through all that trouble, you might as well try that 50mm lens, too. And does that camera allow focus peaking in live view?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

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--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

So this time I decided to try axial lighting using a piece of glass at
45 degrees. Much greater contrast result than anything else tried:

https://i.imgur.com/DG6f1tg.jpg

Only issue with this technique are the hot spots. Even with diffused
light, I still get them. I think once the other camera arrives, I could probably tame those areas in raw (the Samsung was used for this image).
I may use this technique for now on though, reveals more details than
any of the prior methods.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 31/03/2022 12:24 pm, Ace Crysler wrote:

So this time I decided to try axial lighting using a piece of glass at
45 degrees.  Much greater contrast result than anything else tried:

https://i.imgur.com/DG6f1tg.jpg

Only issue with this technique are the hot spots.  Even with diffused
light, I still get them.  I think once the other camera arrives, I could probably tame those areas in raw (the Samsung was used for this image).
 I may use this technique for now on though, reveals more details than
any of the prior methods.

Looks fine to me. Can't imagine why anybody would want something in some
way 'better' for the purpose.

geoff

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

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--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Before the Canon S90 p&s arrives, I decided to give a "proper" go with
the Pentax KX. This time, I switched out its kit lens for a Carl Zeiss
Jena Sonnar 135mm f3.5 I have here. It's an older, manual lens that is supposed to be known for its sharpness. I added a couple of macro tubes
so that the coin would nearly fill the frame and so I could get a lot
closer distance. This is the result:

https://i.imgur.com/riTUnDI.jpg

Again, I used axial lighting. Very little post processing had to be
done as contrast was pretty much spot on. There was still a bit of
color imbalance, but easily adjusted. I almost don't know what to do
when I don't have to touch the contrast in post processing. Looks like
I won't have to wait for the S90 after all!

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 2/04/2022 5:37 am, Ace Crysler wrote:

Before the Canon S90 p&s arrives, I decided to give a "proper" go with
the Pentax KX.  This time, I switched out its kit lens for a Carl Zeiss
Jena Sonnar 135mm f3.5  I have here.  It's an older, manual lens that is supposed to be known for its sharpness.  I added a couple of macro tubes
so that the coin would nearly fill the frame and so I could get a lot
closer distance.  This is the result:

 https://i.imgur.com/riTUnDI.jpg

Again, I used axial lighting.  Very little post processing had to be
done as contrast was pretty much spot on.  There was still a bit of
color imbalance, but easily adjusted.  I almost don't know what to do
when I don't have to touch the contrast in post processing.  Looks like
I won't have to wait for the S90 after all!

Colour balance is very much a variable at your end (unless you have a calibrated monitor), and even more-so for the end-viewers, over which
you have no control (unless physical prints that you have supplied
yourself).

So don't get too obsessed over it !

geoff

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

No P&S costs $10. It might have cost you that (just like I can buy an old Canon DSLR with 8mp for $40) because
of the declining value of old tech. Having said that, I found an old Kodak 2mp P&S to have a perceptually better lens on its
sensor than a modernish Olympus 14mp P&S, but a 2mp sensor puts much less stress on a lens than does a 14mp
sensor leading to the perception the images out of the Kodak were better when it fact they had less resolution
than the much higher mp count Olympus.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)