1. Forum
  2. Usenet
  3. REC.GARDENS

  • scotch spanish broom

    From paul@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jan 16 20:09:42 2021
    it keeps coming back

    spanish broom is like a hydra

    what do you use to get rid of broom?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David E. Ross@21:1/5 to paul on Sat Jan 16 12:33:15 2021
    On 1/16/2021 11:09 AM, paul wrote:
    it keeps coming back

    spanish broom is like a hydra

    what do you use to get rid of broom?

    I have never had broom in my garden. However, I have had other
    persistent weeds.

    Roundup can be your friend. Just wait until the broom is growing
    vigorously in the spring.

    Mix the Roundup from a concentrate, slightly weak. Full strength might
    kill only the top growth without killing the roots. Include a little
    liquid soap in the mixture as a wetting agent.

    DO NOT SPRAY! Spraying might damage adjacent plants that you want to
    keep. Apply from a bucket with a paintbrush. You do not have to cover
    each shoot in its entirety, but you should try to apply to at least a
    part of each shoot.

    --

    David E. Ross
    <http://www.rossde.com/>.

    The only reason we have so many laws is that not enough people will do
    the right thing. (© 1997 by David Ross)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From azigni@21:1/5 to paul on Sat Jan 16 21:17:18 2021
    On Sat, 16 Jan 2021 20:09:42 +0100, paul wrote:
    what do you use to get rid of broom?

    I had this problem first with Morning Glory and then Rose bushes that
    went 'wild'.

    In the end I turned over the soil every couple of weeks until everything stopped coming up.

    This wasn't a fast process, but where they were planed was not turned
    into a hazardous waste site. gl

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David E. Ross@21:1/5 to paul on Sat Jan 16 20:05:59 2021
    On 1/16/2021 7:30 PM, paul wrote:
    David E. Ross wrote:

    Include a little
    liquid soap in the mixture as a wetting agent.

    I read somewhere not to use ionic surfactants.

    how would I know if a dish detergent or liquid soap is non ionic?


    I really do not know. I know that I use a cheap brand of liquid soap
    for any spraying I do, and I always get the desired results.

    While I indicated not to spray, I do spray Roundup with a small,
    hand-held sprayer on my hill. Yes, my desired ground cover is sometimes damaged; but new growth eventually replaces the damage. On my paths, I
    use the same hand-held sprayer whiile bending low to ensure that only
    the weeds are hit. Of course, I only spray when there is NO wind.

    --

    David E. Ross
    <http://www.rossde.com/>.

    The only reason we have so many laws is that not enough people will do
    the right thing. (© 1997 by David Ross)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From paul@21:1/5 to azigni on Sun Jan 17 04:29:11 2021
    azigni wrote:

    In the end I turned over the soil every couple of weeks until everything stopped coming up.

    they say for scotch & spanish broom not to turn over the soil as the seeds which last for 30 to 60 years will simply germinate more.

    gotta be a better way somehow

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From paul@21:1/5 to David E. Ross on Sun Jan 17 04:30:00 2021
    David E. Ross wrote:

    Include a little
    liquid soap in the mixture as a wetting agent.

    I read somewhere not to use ionic surfactants.

    how would I know if a dish detergent or liquid soap is non ionic?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From songbird@21:1/5 to paul on Sat Jan 16 23:02:24 2021
    paul wrote:
    azigni wrote:

    In the end I turned over the soil every couple of weeks until everything
    stopped coming up.

    they say for scotch & spanish broom not to turn over the soil as the seeds which last for 30 to 60 years will simply germinate more.

    gotta be a better way somehow

    if you are worried about soil disturbance and gemination then
    i normally would use the smother and mulch approach as this means
    not disturbing the soil or moving the seeds around. several
    layers of cardboard with the seams overlapping by 9 inches or so
    and then after that is down top it with some other mulch to hold
    it in place. this may last a season or more depending upon your
    local climate and conditions. it may not be that much work to
    scrape the mulch aside and to repeat putting down more cardboard
    on top of the old (leave the bits that are not gone as they'll
    be worm food eventually) and then put the mulch back. i've yet
    to have any plant last more than a few seasons once the top has
    been cut back and then treated like this.


    songbird

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From azigni@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 17 05:54:08 2021
    Ditto

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David E. Ross@21:1/5 to songbird on Sun Jan 17 08:46:32 2021
    On 1/16/2021 8:02 PM, songbird wrote:
    paul wrote:
    azigni wrote:

    In the end I turned over the soil every couple of weeks until everything >>> stopped coming up.

    they say for scotch & spanish broom not to turn over the soil as the seeds >> which last for 30 to 60 years will simply germinate more.

    gotta be a better way somehow

    if you are worried about soil disturbance and gemination then
    i normally would use the smother and mulch approach as this means
    not disturbing the soil or moving the seeds around. several
    layers of cardboard with the seams overlapping by 9 inches or so
    and then after that is down top it with some other mulch to hold
    it in place. this may last a season or more depending upon your
    local climate and conditions. it may not be that much work to
    scrape the mulch aside and to repeat putting down more cardboard
    on top of the old (leave the bits that are not gone as they'll
    be worm food eventually) and then put the mulch back. i've yet
    to have any plant last more than a few seasons once the top has
    been cut back and then treated like this.

    Some commercial agriculture use black plastic film anchored with metal
    stakes. The area is irrigated first, and then the film is laid. All
    this is done in sunny weather. Sunshine heats the film sufficiently to
    cook any seeds and surface roots enough to kill them. However, this
    works only for large empty fields, not for home landscapes where the
    weeds are growing among desired plants.

    The cardboard mulch idea can be used in small areas. However, it will
    not eliminate certain seeds that can survive for years in the ground,
    such as morning glory.

    --
    David E. Ross
    Climate: California Mediterranean, see <http://www.rossde.com/garden/climate.html>
    Gardening diary at <http://www.rossde.com/garden/diary>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From songbird@21:1/5 to David E. Ross on Sun Jan 17 12:02:39 2021
    David E. Ross wrote:
    ...
    The cardboard mulch idea can be used in small areas. However, it will
    not eliminate certain seeds that can survive for years in the ground,
    such as morning glory.

    if i'm using an area where the soil will be disturbed
    after eliminating a hard to get rid of weed, i have what
    is called a stirrup hoe which quickly kills seedlings
    before they can get well established again.

    if the area isn't disturbed again the 2nd and 3rd year
    after this method is used the seeds likely won't sprout
    again if the mulch is deep enough, but not all seeds are
    the same. it depends a lot upon the plant. morning
    glory seeds are a pain in the butt for sure. i no longer
    let them grow anywhere on our land if i can see them.


    songbird

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)