• cold weather issue?

    From Jim Flom@21:1/5 to All on Tue Nov 28 08:49:27 2023
    My c. 2020 Ultegra (front right) shifter/brake assembly is misbehaving in colder weather it seems.
    First, in cooler weather I have been finding the inner shifter fails to engage when shifting to a higher gear. I have to swing it sometimes several times before it engages.
    Second, this morning it was just below freezing, and I discovered that my rear (disc) brake was extremely hard to compress. Didn't want to stop me.
    What's the deal? Any suggestions? Thanks.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Tue Nov 28 12:12:25 2023
    On 11/28/2023 10:49 AM, Jim Flom wrote:
    My c. 2020 Ultegra (front right) shifter/brake assembly is misbehaving in colder weather it seems.
    First, in cooler weather I have been finding the inner shifter fails to engage when shifting to a higher gear. I have to swing it sometimes several times before it engages.
    Second, this morning it was just below freezing, and I discovered that my rear (disc) brake was extremely hard to compress. Didn't want to stop me.
    What's the deal? Any suggestions? Thanks.

    Most probably condensation (or dried lubricant/crud) in the
    cable casings. Check that first before anything else.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tom Kunich@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Tue Nov 28 11:37:33 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 8:49:30 AM UTC-8, Jim Flom wrote:
    My c. 2020 Ultegra (front right) shifter/brake assembly is misbehaving in colder weather it seems.
    First, in cooler weather I have been finding the inner shifter fails to engage when shifting to a higher gear. I have to swing it sometimes several times before it engages.
    Second, this morning it was just below freezing, and I discovered that my rear (disc) brake was extremely hard to compress. Didn't want to stop me.
    What's the deal? Any suggestions? Thanks.
    This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed and all you have to do is use a Shimano mineral
    oil. DO NOT use car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could get it wrong but stranger things have happened.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Flom@21:1/5 to Tom Kunich on Tue Nov 28 12:26:54 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 11:37:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
    This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed and all you have to do is use a Shimano mineral
    oil. DO NOT use car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could get it wrong but stranger things have happened.

    Thanks gentlemen. Chain is good, chainring is fine. Brakes are not hydraulic. Crud theory is active.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Mark Cleary@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Tue Nov 28 13:02:46 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:26:57 PM UTC-6, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 11:37:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
    This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed and all you have to do is use a Shimano
    mineral oil. DO NOT use car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could get it wrong but stranger things have happened.
    Thanks gentlemen. Chain is good, chainring is fine. Brakes are not hydraulic. Crud theory is active.

    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the head in the shifter too. This can cause the
    exact same symptoms. Once it warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Sir Ridesalot@21:1/5 to Mark Cleary on Tue Nov 28 14:50:13 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 3:02:49 p.m. UTC-6, Mark Cleary wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:26:57 PM UTC-6, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 11:37:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote:
    This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed and all you have to do is use a Shimano
    mineral oil. DO NOT use car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could get it wrong but stranger things have happened.
    Thanks gentlemen. Chain is good, chainring is fine. Brakes are not hydraulic. Crud theory is active.
    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the head in the shifter too. This can cause
    the exact same symptoms. Once it warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    In really cold weather I don't think much beats old school friction thumbshifters. I have Deore friction?\/index rear shifter on one of my winter bikes and I can shift that even with thick mittens. No worries about a cabl fraying either.

    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle from a warm building out into deep cold.

    Cheers

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From AMuzi@21:1/5 to Sir Ridesalot on Tue Nov 28 16:53:59 2023
    On 11/28/2023 4:50 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 3:02:49 p.m. UTC-6, Mark Cleary wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:26:57 PM UTC-6, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 11:37:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote: >>>> This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed and all you have to do is use a Shimano
    mineral oil. DO NOT use car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could get it wrong but stranger things have happened.
    Thanks gentlemen. Chain is good, chainring is fine. Brakes are not hydraulic. Crud theory is active.
    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the head in the shifter too. This can cause
    the exact same symptoms. Once it warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    In really cold weather I don't think much beats old school friction thumbshifters. I have Deore friction?\/index rear shifter on one of my winter bikes and I can shift that even with thick mittens. No worries about a cabl fraying either.

    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle from a warm building out into deep cold.

    Cheers

    Still, friction or index, some products such as Rock-N-Roll
    can be very helpful in extreme cold.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    am@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Sir Ridesalot on Tue Nov 28 23:30:46 2023
    Sir Ridesalot <i_am_cycle_pathic@yahoo.ca> wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 3:02:49 p.m. UTC-6, Mark Cleary wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:26:57 PM UTC-6, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 11:37:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote: >>>> This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem
    could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be
    just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can
    form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and
    outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely
    bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed
    and all you have to do is use a Shimano mineral oil. DO NOT use
    car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be >>>> sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could
    get it wrong but stranger things have happened.
    Thanks gentlemen. Chain is good, chainring is fine. Brakes are not
    hydraulic. Crud theory is active.
    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees
    Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a
    little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the
    head in the shifter too. This can cause the exact same symptoms. Once it
    warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I
    simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not
    bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    In really cold weather I don't think much beats old school friction thumbshifters. I have Deore friction?\/index rear shifter on one of my
    winter bikes and I can shift that even with thick mittens. No worries
    about a cabl fraying either.

    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable
    (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle
    from a warm building out into deep cold.

    Cheers

    I’ve known single speed bmx type hubs to freeze and the pawls start to be erratic as to engagement.

    But in good service ie cables outers are still sealed so cables don’t have water in them. Absolutely fine, MTB trigger shifters aren’t that bad with gloves though I wear lightweight gloves as I run hot.

    Certainly in normal winter conditions out on the hills ie temperatures that will get below zero and maybe -10/15 occasionally. It will hit -5 or so
    just early mornings on way to work if it’s a cold night.

    But shifting is fine, if I am wearing gloves road shifters are mildly less
    easy to use.

    Roger Merriman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Flom@21:1/5 to Sir Ridesalot on Tue Nov 28 19:13:18 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:50:16 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle from a warm building out into deep cold.

    Ah ha! Crazy. You might be onto something.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Flom@21:1/5 to Mark Cleary on Tue Nov 28 19:12:14 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 1:02:49 PM UTC-8, Mark Cleary wrote:
    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the head in the shifter too. This can cause
    the exact same symptoms. Once it warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    Will check that out. I was skeptical of disk brakes and I am no less skeptical after this cold weather stuff.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Wed Nov 29 10:31:07 2023
    Jim Flom <jamesaflom@gmail.com> wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 1:02:49 PM UTC-8, Mark Cleary wrote:
    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees
    Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a
    little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the
    head in the shifter too. This can cause the exact same symptoms. Once it
    warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I
    simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not
    bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    Will check that out. I was skeptical of disk brakes and I am no less skeptical after this cold weather stuff.


    Doesn’t sound like disks are the issue but cables and possibly the shifter housing. With cable disks callipers are exposed so muck can get in though
    this doesn’t sound like this happened?

    Cable disks are arguably worse of both worlds but I don’t believe this is a disks problem but a cable one.

    Roger Merriman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From funkmasterxx@hotmail.com@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Wed Nov 29 03:57:39 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 10:13:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:50:16 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle from a warm building out into deep cold.
    Ah ha! Crazy. You might be onto something.

    I had a freewheel on my CX bike which froze up during an exceptionally cold race for exactly that reason.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Flom@21:1/5 to Roger Merriman on Wed Nov 29 05:51:03 2023
    On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 2:31:11 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Doesn’t sound like disks are the issue but cables and possibly the shifter housing. With cable disks callipers are exposed so muck can get in though this doesn’t sound like this happened?

    Cable disks are arguably worse of both worlds but I don’t believe this is a
    disks problem but a cable one.

    Roger Merriman

    Yeah, I'm going to have to dig into that. Really not sold on disk brakes... they get crazy hot on winding descents, and this... I'll take rims over this nonsense.

    JF

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jim Flom@21:1/5 to funkma...@hotmail.com on Wed Nov 29 05:48:33 2023
    On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 3:57:41 AM UTC-8, funkma...@hotmail.com wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 10:13:20 PM UTC-5, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:50:16 PM UTC-8, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle from a warm building out into deep cold.
    Ah ha! Crazy. You might be onto something.
    I had a freewheel on my CX bike which froze up during an exceptionally cold race for exactly that reason.

    I have to keep my bike inside where it's warm and everything is fine if I just keep it leaning against the wall. lol.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tom Kunich@21:1/5 to AMuzi on Wed Nov 29 07:15:04 2023
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:54:01 PM UTC-8, AMuzi wrote:
    On 11/28/2023 4:50 PM, Sir Ridesalot wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 3:02:49 p.m. UTC-6, Mark Cleary wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 2:26:57 PM UTC-6, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Tuesday, November 28, 2023 at 11:37:35 AM UTC-8, Tom Kunich wrote: >>>> This sounds to me like two separate problems. The shifting problem could be from crud between the inner and outer cables But it could be just as easily a worn chain or chain ring,

    But the brakes are probably hydraulic and any water in the line can form ice that will block that brake entirely.

    To fix it I would recommend replacing the shift cables inner and outer. For the braking problem I would say that you need to entirely bleed the brake giving you the problem. Shimano is very easy to bleed and all you have to do is use a Shimano
    mineral oil. DO NOT use car-type braking fluid since Shimano seals are not designed for it. Be sure to read the Shimano bleeding manual. I don't see how you could get it wrong but stranger things have happened.
    Thanks gentlemen. Chain is good, chainring is fine. Brakes are not hydraulic. Crud theory is active.
    I have Shimano 6800 and on real cold day with temps at 30 degrees Fahrenheit they can do the exact same thing. I think the grease gets a little slow. You need to watch for the cable fray that happens in at the head in the shifter too. This can cause
    the exact same symptoms. Once it warms up then the bike shifts fine. The worst-case scenario is the I simply have trigger the shifter a couple times to upshift. It does not bother the downshifting.
    Deacon Mark

    In really cold weather I don't think much beats old school friction thumbshifters. I have Deore friction?\/index rear shifter on one of my winter bikes and I can shift that even with thick mittens. No worries about a cabl fraying either.

    Heavy condensation can totally freeze up a shifter or even brake cable (or freehub or freewheel). That can happen simply by moving a bicycle from a warm building out into deep cold.

    Cheers
    Still, friction or index, some products such as Rock-N-Roll
    can be very helpful in extreme cold.
    --
    Andrew Muzi
    a...@yellowjersey.org
    Open every day since 1 April, 1971
    He indicated that he has cable discs. So that is his stopping problem. In bad weather you have to ride more carefully and notice the poor braking of cable discs more

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tom Kunich@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Wed Nov 29 07:21:20 2023
    On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 5:51:05 AM UTC-8, Jim Flom wrote:
    On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 2:31:11 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Doesn’t sound like disks are the issue but cables and possibly the shifter
    housing. With cable disks callipers are exposed so muck can get in though this doesn’t sound like this happened?

    Cable disks are arguably worse of both worlds but I don’t believe this is a
    disks problem but a cable one.

    Roger Merriman
    Yeah, I'm going to have to dig into that. Really not sold on disk brakes... they get crazy hot on winding descents, and this... I'll take rims over this nonsense.

    JF

    cable discs pull the disc off center. I have fully enclosed hydraulic brakes on my Cannondale so that they cable causes them to close from both sides which improves the braking. But I still prefer rim brakes.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Roger Merriman@21:1/5 to Jim Flom on Wed Nov 29 21:58:33 2023
    Jim Flom <jamesaflom@gmail.com> wrote:
    On Wednesday, November 29, 2023 at 2:31:11 AM UTC-8, Roger Merriman wrote:
    Doesn’t sound like disks are the issue but cables and possibly the shifter >> housing. With cable disks callipers are exposed so muck can get in though
    this doesn’t sound like this happened?

    Cable disks are arguably worse of both worlds but I don’t believe this is a
    disks problem but a cable one.

    Roger Merriman

    Yeah, I'm going to have to dig into that. Really not sold on disk
    brakes... they get crazy hot on winding descents, and this... I'll take
    rims over this nonsense.

    JF


    Unless or even if you are dragging brakes shouldn’t get that hot. Though cable disks can feel rather less secure than hydraulic.

    I’m assuming your bike frame doesn’t have rim brake mounts? MTB did for a while even some that came with disk front and rim rear.

    Clearly could upgrade to hydraulic though that’s expensive ie with new shifters etc.

    Roger Merriman

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From legg@21:1/5 to jamesaflom@gmail.com on Thu Nov 30 10:54:50 2023
    On Tue, 28 Nov 2023 08:49:27 -0800 (PST), Jim Flom
    <jamesaflom@gmail.com> wrote:

    My c. 2020 Ultegra (front right) shifter/brake assembly is misbehaving in colder weather it seems.
    First, in cooler weather I have been finding the inner shifter fails to engage when shifting to a higher gear. I have to swing it sometimes several times before it engages.
    Second, this morning it was just below freezing, and I discovered that my rear (disc) brake was extremely hard to compress. Didn't want to stop me.
    What's the deal? Any suggestions? Thanks.

    WD40.

    This will shift crud and lower vicosity of lubricants temporarily.

    RL

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)