That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from >about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it's
only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn't go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
Recently my front tyre has started going flat overnight though it holds up >fine during the day. I can't find any kind of puncture in the inner. I >suspect the valve (Presta) which leaks when unscrewed but shows no sign of >air escape when screwed up. I've swapped the tube out and we'll see what >happens.
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
I have a bike that was fitted with Schwalbe Delta Cruisers from new. I
never had a puncture with them over about 4 years. The rear one wore
out -
down to the brown belt under the tread - and I swapped it with a
Specialized Infinity Sport Reflect, which appears to be a similar spec and half the price of the M+, which I also considered. That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it’s only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn’t go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
Recently my front tyre has started going flat overnight though it holds up fine during the day. I can’t find any kind of puncture in the inner. I suspect the valve (Presta) which leaks when unscrewed but shows no sign of air escape when screwed up. I’ve swapped the tube out and we’ll see what happens.
Suggestions welcome.
Sam
--
The entity formerly known as Sam.Wilson@ed.ac.uk
Spit the dummy to reply
In article <r4njle$btb$1@dont-email.me>,
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from >>about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it's >>only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn't go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
Ah, the merits of butyl! No more pumping up twice a day :-)
Recently my front tyre has started going flat overnight though it holds up >>fine during the day. I can't find any kind of puncture in the inner. I >>suspect the valve (Presta) which leaks when unscrewed but shows no sign of >>air escape when screwed up. I've swapped the tube out and we'll see what >>happens.
That's probably the problem. I loathe Presta, and avoid it if at all possible, and that is one of the many reasons.
On 2020-03-17, Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article <r4njle$btb$1@dont-email.me>,
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from >>> about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it's
only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn't go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
Ah, the merits of butyl! No more pumping up twice a day :-)
Recently my front tyre has started going flat overnight though it holds up >>> fine during the day. I can't find any kind of puncture in the inner. I >>> suspect the valve (Presta) which leaks when unscrewed but shows no sign of >>> air escape when screwed up. I've swapped the tube out and we'll see what >>> happens.
That's probably the problem. I loathe Presta, and avoid it if at all
possible, and that is one of the many reasons.
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
On 18/03/2020 10:04, Adam Funk wrote:
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
Smaller hole in rim, free flow valve.
I have no idea why some people dislike them, I much prefer them to
Schraeder or heaven forbid Woods!
In article <O7WdnYzPVfhBbezDnZ2dnUU78LGdnZ2d@giganews.com>,
Tosspot <Frank.Leake@gmail.com> wrote:
On 18/03/2020 10:04, Adam Funk wrote:
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
Smaller hole in rim, free flow valve.
I have no idea why some people dislike them, I much prefer them to
Schraeder or heaven forbid Woods!
It's been explained several times before. They are prone to leaking,
very fiddly, require good finger dexterity and some strength, don't
work with many pumps, are very delicate, and misbehave horribly if
the rod is even slightly bent or they don't like the connector.
People with even minor physical handicaps often find them extremely
hard to use, extremely unreliable, and sometimes completely unusable.
My wife couldn't use them at all, even 20 years ago, and I can't get a
decent (i.e. reliable) lifetime out of them.
Woods is the only one that does not need an effective non-return
valve in the pump, or can be fixed without the use of fiddly tools.
It's the only one my wife can use, and she's not particularly unusual
in that respect. Yes, it used to be a problem back when the seal was
latex, but so were all other valve types. It's not a problem, unless
you have idiots who find it funny to unscrew it.
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
Smaller hole in rim, free flow valve.
I have no idea why some people dislike them, I much prefer them to
Schraeder or heaven forbid Woods!
It's been explained several times before. They are prone to leaking,
very fiddly, require good finger dexterity and some strength, don't
work with many pumps, are very delicate, and misbehave horribly if
the rod is even slightly bent or they don't like the connector.
People with even minor physical handicaps often find them extremely
hard to use, extremely unreliable, and sometimes completely unusable.
My wife couldn't use them at all, even 20 years ago, and I can't get a
decent (i.e. reliable) lifetime out of them.
All I can say is in 40 years I've never had one leak or break.
Woods is the only one that does not need an effective non-return
valve in the pump, or can be fixed without the use of fiddly tools.
It's the only one my wife can use, and she's not particularly unusual
in that respect. Yes, it used to be a problem back when the seal was
latex, but so were all other valve types. It's not a problem, unless
you have idiots who find it funny to unscrew it.
What do they use now then? I pumped one up yesterday[1] and tbh I was
just guessing the PSI at about 10 to overcome the valve, so max PSI 75,
call it 85 on the gauge and hope.
Of the half dozen or a bit more ones I have seen, over half leaked
unless I screwed the nut down, and one did even then. They were not
cheap and nasty ones, either. While I can screw and unscrew that nut,
my wife couldn't, even back then - a LOT of women lose strength after menopause, and lots of older people have trouble with fiddly things.
"Sam Wilson" <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote in message news:r4njle$btb$1@dont-email.me...
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
I have a bike that was fitted with Schwalbe Delta Cruisers from new. I
never had a puncture with them over about 4 years. The rear one wore
out -
down to the brown belt under the tread - and I swapped it with a
Specialized Infinity Sport Reflect, which appears to be a similar spec and >> half the price of the M+, which I also considered. That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from
about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it’s
only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn’t go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
Recently my front tyre has started going flat overnight though it holds up >> fine during the day. I can’t find any kind of puncture in the inner. I >> suspect the valve (Presta) which leaks when unscrewed but shows no sign of >> air escape when screwed up. I’ve swapped the tube out and we’ll see what
happens.
Check to see if it is the removable valve core type
I suspect it is and its not tightend up enough
so when you unscew the nut, your actually undoing the core
On 18/03/2020 11:45, Nick Maclaren wrote:
In article <O7WdnYzPVfhBbezDnZ2dnUU78LGdnZ2d@giganews.com>,
Tosspot <Frank.Leake@gmail.com> wrote:
On 18/03/2020 10:04, Adam Funk wrote:
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
Smaller hole in rim, free flow valve.
I have no idea why some people dislike them, I much prefer them to
Schraeder or heaven forbid Woods!
It's been explained several times before. They are prone to leaking,
very fiddly, require good finger dexterity and some strength, don't
work with many pumps, are very delicate, and misbehave horribly if
the rod is even slightly bent or they don't like the connector.
People with even minor physical handicaps often find them extremely
hard to use, extremely unreliable, and sometimes completely unusable.
My wife couldn't use them at all, even 20 years ago, and I can't get a
decent (i.e. reliable) lifetime out of them.
All I can say is in 40 years I've never had one leak or break.
Woods is the only one that does not need an effective non-return
valve in the pump, or can be fixed without the use of fiddly tools.
It's the only one my wife can use, and she's not particularly unusual
in that respect. Yes, it used to be a problem back when the seal was
latex, but so were all other valve types. It's not a problem, unless
you have idiots who find it funny to unscrew it.
In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Wed, 18 Mar 2020 14:15:59 -0000 (UTC)
Nick Maclaren <nmm@wheeler.UUCP> wrote:
Of the half dozen or a bit more ones I have seen, over half leaked
unless I screwed the nut down, and one did even then. They were not
cheap and nasty ones, either. While I can screw and unscrew that nut,
my wife couldn't, even back then - a LOT of women lose strength after
menopause, and lots of older people have trouble with fiddly things.
Glad that hasn't happened to me. I can still unscrew mine, even the
bent one. Which doesn't leak any more than the unbent one, say from
100psi to 80 psi in around 2 weeks.
Had one go bad when the bike fell over while still attached to the
pump. I forgive it for that even though I was late to work because I
had to change the tube.
I'm not all that fond but I cope.
I do find that some pumps can't easily overcome the pressure. I have a Lezyne track pump (cheapest one) that can't do the ones on the 26" wheel, whereas the Lezyne mini pump carried for emergencies can. So that's
cheap pumps for you! (bought to do the rear wheel on the trike as only Lezyne's screw on chuck fits)
I have pondered going to schraeder on all. Have to check the rims on
the 'bent as I don't feel like drilling. THe B doesn't need presta
anymore as a larger pump can fit in the current seatpost but then
I'd have to find a schraeder pump that can and new tubes and sod it.
As I say, not fond of them but they are what I have and I personally
have no reason to change.
Zebee
I /did/ have an issue with a Presta recently: it had held air so well
that I only pumped it up once a blue moon, it had lost its dust cap and >road-salt rendered it very difficult to open. Not really something I'd
put down as a deal-breaker TBH.
The problem with Woods is getting tubes, and getting a track-pump that
will fit. I imagine a Dutch online shop would solve either easily
enough. Roos has them on her Gazelle and I have to use the wee pump that
came with the bike to pump them up, but that's a pump limitation, not a
valve issue.
I find that in practice different pumps connect either well or badly to whatever. I personally prefer Prestas because I've had fewer faffs with
them over the years, but bottom line is I have Prestas and Schreaders
and both work okay. Various folk have religious objections to one or the other, and if so then it makes sense to stick to the other, but <shrug>
In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Thu, 19 Mar 2020 16:11:34 +0000
Kim Wall <kim@ductilebiscuit.net> wrote:
The hand-strength issue is a good one though. I doubt my partner could
unscrew a Presta valve without resorting to pliers (this is largely
academic, as she can't really work a pump, and isn't currently able to
cycle anyway). Indeed, I've done so myself on a couple of occasions.
I find this fascinating as I've never had the problem. Is it maybe
something that happens in a cold country where you can get some icing
of the valve?
I think I've once had one that was a bit stiff but never one I
couldn't undo with a bit of effort.
Guess I've got that to look forward to?
The hand-strength issue is a good one though. I doubt my partner could unscrew a Presta valve without resorting to pliers (this is largely
academic, as she can't really work a pump, and isn't currently able to
cycle anyway). Indeed, I've done so myself on a couple of occasions.
In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Thu, 19 Mar 2020 16:11:34 +0000
Kim Wall <kim@ductilebiscuit.net> wrote:
The hand-strength issue is a good one though. I doubt my partner could
unscrew a Presta valve without resorting to pliers (this is largely
academic, as she can't really work a pump, and isn't currently able to
cycle anyway). Indeed, I've done so myself on a couple of occasions.
I find this fascinating as I've never had the problem. Is it maybe
something that happens in a cold country where you can get some icing
of the valve?
In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Thu, 19 Mar 2020 16:11:34 +0000
Kim Wall <kim@ductilebiscuit.net> wrote:
The hand-strength issue is a good one though. I doubt my partner could
unscrew a Presta valve without resorting to pliers (this is largely
academic, as she can't really work a pump, and isn't currently able to
cycle anyway). Indeed, I've done so myself on a couple of occasions.
I find this fascinating as I've never had the problem. Is it maybe
something that happens in a cold country where you can get some icing
of the valve?
I think I've once had one that was a bit stiff but never one I
couldn't undo with a bit of effort.
Guess I've got that to look forward to?
Tbf, the big advantage of Schraeder is of course the roadside garage,Good point (also muggle bike pumps tend to be set to Schrader). I have
but I have a presta-schraeder adaptor living in my handlebars for that.
They don't need to be screwed up tight to start with, otoh, I did once
have a recalcitrant one that was caked in salt and slime. That just
made me buy a job lot of dust caps :-)
Jolly polly <kneedown@aton.com> wrote:
Check to see if it is the removable valve core type
I suspect it is and its not tightend up enough
so when you unscew the nut, your actually undoing the core
It is the removable core type[1] but the core didn’t seem to be loose. I’ve now reseated it and inflated the inner tube and we’ll see whether it goes down or not. Even previously there was no sign of leakage when I
stuck it in my basin of water.
In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Thu, 19 Mar 2020 16:11:34 +0000
Kim Wall <kim@ductilebiscuit.net> wrote:
The hand-strength issue is a good one though. I doubt my partner could
unscrew a Presta valve without resorting to pliers (this is largely
academic, as she can't really work a pump, and isn't currently able to
cycle anyway). Indeed, I've done so myself on a couple of occasions.
I find this fascinating as I've never had the problem. Is it maybe
something that happens in a cold country where you can get some icing
of the valve?
I think I've once had one that was a bit stiff but never one I
couldn't undo with a bit of effort.
Guess I've got that to look forward to?
And YOU may not have any problem with bending right over or balancing,
but a LOT of people do. All you have to do is jerk that damn rod, and
the valve stops working properly. After I had bent several back, and replaced a couple of tubes, I thought 'sod this for a lark' and drilled
out for Schraeder/Woods. The point is that there is NO modern field
pump that can be used on those things if the user can't pump while
bending over, or can't hold steady while pumping. Track pumps aren't
a problem.
That's probably the problem. I loathe Presta, and avoid it if at all possible, and that is one of the many reasons.
In article <O7WdnYzPVfhBbezDnZ2dnUU78LGdnZ2d@giganews.com>,
Tosspot <Frank.Leake@gmail.com> wrote:
On 18/03/2020 10:04, Adam Funk wrote:
Why have Presta valves become so common anyway?
Smaller hole in rim, free flow valve.
I have no idea why some people dislike them, I much prefer them to >>Schraeder or heaven forbid Woods!
It's been explained several times before. They are prone to leaking,
very fiddly, require good finger dexterity and some strength, don't
work with many pumps, are very delicate, and misbehave horribly if
the rod is even slightly bent or they don't like the connector.
People with even minor physical handicaps often find them extremely
hard to use, extremely unreliable, and sometimes completely unusable.
My wife couldn't use them at all, even 20 years ago, and I can't get a
decent (i.e. reliable) lifetime out of them.
Woods is the only one that does not need an effective non-return
valve in the pump, or can be fixed without the use of fiddly tools.
It's the only one my wife can use, and she's not particularly unusual
in that respect. Yes, it used to be a problem back when the seal was
latex, but so were all other valve types. It's not a problem, unless
you have idiots who find it funny to unscrew it.
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
Jolly polly <kneedown@aton.com> wrote:
Check to see if it is the removable valve core type
I suspect it is and its not tightend up enough
so when you unscew the nut, your actually undoing the core
It is the removable core type[1] but the core didn’t seem to be loose.
I’ve now reseated it and inflated the inner tube and we’ll see whether it
goes down or not. Even previously there was no sign of leakage when I
stuck it in my basin of water.
The inflated inner tube has not appreciably leaked overnight. The
question
now is whether I stick it back on the wheel, inflate it to full pressure
and then see what happens, or whether I just put it back in the bag,
knowing it’s good enough for emergencies... :-)
Sam
--
The entity formerly known as Sam.Wilson@ed.ac.uk
Spit the dummy to reply
And YOU may not have any problem with bending right over or balancing,
but a LOT of people do. All you have to do is jerk that damn rod, and
the valve stops working properly. After I had bent several back, and
replaced a couple of tubes, I thought 'sod this for a lark' and drilled
out for Schraeder/Woods. The point is that there is NO modern field
pump that can be used on those things if the user can't pump while
bending over, or can't hold steady while pumping. Track pumps aren't
a problem.
I find no discernible difference in the difficulties attaching any given
pump to any of the main 3 valve systems (put head over tube, lever to
lock), and no difference in using the pump once it is attached.
Thinks like the Topeak Road Morph are IME much easier to use then
typical hand pumps, and the short hose also provides useful mechanical >isolation which makes pumping easier than the more typical direct >connections. It's not as easy to use as a proper track pump, but much
easier than most hand pumps. There's a fold-out foot that you stand on
and then drive the pump against the ground, like a track pump but smaller.
"Sam Wilson" <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote in message news:r4vdbg$l96$1@dont-email.me...
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
Jolly polly <kneedown@aton.com> wrote:
Check to see if it is the removable valve core type I suspect
it is and its not tightend up enough so when you unscew the
nut, your actually undoing the core
It is the removable core type[1] but the core didn’t seem to be
loose. I’ve now reseated it and inflated the inner tube and we’ll
see whether it goes down or not. Even previously there was no
sign of leakage when I stuck it in my basin of water.
The inflated inner tube has not appreciably leaked overnight. The
question now is whether I stick it back on the wheel, inflate it
to full pressure and then see what happens, or whether I just put
it back in the bag, knowing it’s good enough for emergencies...
:-)
If it were me, I'd pop it back in. You would then know for sure
you've found and fixed the fault after a week or so
Thinks like the Topeak Road Morph are IME much easier to use then
typical hand pumps, and the short hose also provides useful mechanical isolation which makes pumping easier than the more typical direct connections. It's not as easy to use as a proper track pump, but much
easier than most hand pumps. There's a fold-out foot that you stand on
and then drive the pump against the ground, like a track pump but smaller.
"Sam Wilson" <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote in message news:r4vdbg$l96$1@dont-email.me...
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
Jolly polly <kneedown@aton.com> wrote:
Check to see if it is the removable valve core type
I suspect it is and its not tightend up enough
so when you unscew the nut, your actually undoing the core
It is the removable core type[1] but the core didn’t seem to be loose. >>> I’ve now reseated it and inflated the inner tube and we’ll see whether it
goes down or not. Even previously there was no sign of leakage when I
stuck it in my basin of water.
The inflated inner tube has not appreciably leaked overnight. The
question
now is whether I stick it back on the wheel, inflate it to full pressure
and then see what happens, or whether I just put it back in the bag,
knowing it’s good enough for emergencies... :-)
If it were me, I'd pop it back in. You would then know for sure you've found and fixed the fault after a week or so
In article <hdgoi5F356vU1@mid.individual.net>,
Peter Clinch <p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk> wrote:
And YOU may not have any problem with bending right over or balancing,
but a LOT of people do. All you have to do is jerk that damn rod, and
the valve stops working properly. After I had bent several back, and
replaced a couple of tubes, I thought 'sod this for a lark' and drilled
out for Schraeder/Woods. The point is that there is NO modern field
pump that can be used on those things if the user can't pump while
bending over, or can't hold steady while pumping. Track pumps aren't
a problem.
I find no discernible difference in the difficulties attaching any given
pump to any of the main 3 valve systems (put head over tube, lever to
lock), and no difference in using the pump once it is attached.
And how difficult do YOU find it to pump and balance while bending
over? As I said, this is a problem for a large number of people who
have various minor handicaps, often due simply to old age.
I am not joking that I have known people who cycled for decades, and
gave up when they were moved to Presta or were thinking of doing so.
Thinks like the Topeak Road Morph are IME much easier to use then
typical hand pumps, and the short hose also provides useful mechanical
isolation which makes pumping easier than the more typical direct
connections. It's not as easy to use as a proper track pump, but much
easier than most hand pumps. There's a fold-out foot that you stand on
and then drive the pump against the ground, like a track pump but smaller.
Yeah. Sodding EVIL. I need 3 stable points to hold position precisely
when performing physical activity (e.g. pumping) or to be able to rock
around on my feet (and move by body as needed) to maintain balance. If
I put my foot on it, that foot ceases to be adequate for balancing. And
when (WHEN not IF) I lose balance, I will fall further than that stupid little hose allows before I can recover. I use an almost identical one
from another maker, but (a) have fallen completely over several times
trying to protect the valve (NOT a good idea for people with even osteopaenia, let alone osteoporosis, but I don't have them) and (b) it's Schraeder valves, which are VASTLY more robust against being jerked.
Balance as bad as mine is rare in younger people, but gets increasingly common in the elderly, and is the norm for people in their 90s. Over
60-70 years, I have learnt to live with it, but it gets my goat when
people tell me that there isn't a problem because THEY don't have it.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
I'm impressed your attempting to stand, I can't for mini/frame pumps I'm >liable to rip the valve clean off, fall, Put my head though the wheel... >Track/foot pump that's fine but for hand pumps I need to kneel, I equally >hated the road morph was neither fish or fowl. So I got a big frame pump
for the odd occasions I wanted a big pump but couldn't take a frame pump, >generally taking a bike abroad. For all other uses I use the Topeak Race >Rocket MT ie a mini pump with a hose, and a decent throw, since my bikes go >from 35mm to 60mm+ so high pressures aren't needed, but volume is.
In article <r56ipo$uqq$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
I'm impressed your attempting to stand, I can't for mini/frame pumps I'm
liable to rip the valve clean off, fall, Put my head though the wheel...
Track/foot pump that's fine but for hand pumps I need to kneel, I equally
hated the road morph was neither fish or fowl. So I got a big frame pump
for the odd occasions I wanted a big pump but couldn't take a frame pump,
generally taking a bike abroad. For all other uses I use the Topeak Race
Rocket MT ie a mini pump with a hose, and a decent throw, since my bikes go >> from 35mm to 60mm+ so high pressures aren't needed, but volume is.
Yes, but I was lucky with my loss of hearing and vestibular function,
because I lost a lot of their functionality shortly after learning to
walk and talk, so I was at the optimal time to adapt and have had a
lifetime to do so! I even managed to learn to parallel ski at 64,
but it took me 5 times as long as most people and I was the slowest
parallel skier on the slopes :-)
I often kneel or lie down, too, but that's serious unpleasant in many circumstances, and I don't find holding position when kneeling is at
all easy.
I will take a look at that pump (and the Lezyne). Thanks.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Young brains learn/cope well, though looking at others as you age the
ability to compensate goes.
For myself I always had very good balance growing up in the hills, so as
long as there light it's generally okay crowds and public transport aren't >great, one of the reasons I commute by bike, I also saw the vestibular >physios who though did weird sh*t to me, has helped.
In article <r57m8s$sv7$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Young brains learn/cope well, though looking at others as you age the
ability to compensate goes.
Yes. It's primarily an unconscious (reflex) matter, and that is very
slow to train at the best of times. 150 hours for my skiing.
For myself I always had very good balance growing up in the hills, so as
long as there light it's generally okay crowds and public transport aren't >> great, one of the reasons I commute by bike, I also saw the vestibular
physios who though did weird sh*t to me, has helped.
I rely primarily on touch and proprioreception, not sight - but,
whatever method you use, it's a matter of "use it or lose it". I saw
some specialists, and it turns out have no physical function in one
side, and don't even track with my eyes (the primary function of the vestibular system). I predict, and was making very rude remarks about
the author of the pseudrorandom number generator used in the test by
the end (which happens to be a speciality of mine). But, because of
what I rely on, I am VERY sensitive to being bumped into (especially
on a bicycle), which is why I had to give up when they 'improved' the
route into my work and forced cyclists onto a dangerously narrow
psychle farcility.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
I've been using Presta valves for the last 50 years or so and can only >remember having trouble with one in all that time.
I find no discernible difference in the difficulties attaching any given
pump to any of the main 3 valve systems (put head over tube, lever to
lock), and no difference in using the pump once it is attached.
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
I have a bike that was fitted with Schwalbe Delta Cruisers from new. I
never had a puncture with them over about 4 years. The rear one wore out - down to the brown belt under the tread - and I swapped it with a
Specialized Infinity Sport Reflect, which appears to be a similar spec and half the price of the M+, which I also considered. That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it’s only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn’t go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
In article <hdgoi5F356vU1@mid.individual.net>,
Peter Clinch <p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk> wrote:
And YOU may not have any problem with bending right over or balancing,
but a LOT of people do. All you have to do is jerk that damn rod, and
the valve stops working properly. After I had bent several back, and
replaced a couple of tubes, I thought 'sod this for a lark' and drilled
out for Schraeder/Woods. The point is that there is NO modern field
pump that can be used on those things if the user can't pump while
bending over, or can't hold steady while pumping. Track pumps aren't
a problem.
I find no discernible difference in the difficulties attaching any given
pump to any of the main 3 valve systems (put head over tube, lever to
lock), and no difference in using the pump once it is attached.
And how difficult do YOU find it to pump and balance while bending
over? As I said, this is a problem for a large number of people who
have various minor handicaps, often due simply to old age.
Thinks like the Topeak Road Morph are IME much easier to use then
typical hand pumps, and the short hose also provides useful mechanical
isolation which makes pumping easier than the more typical direct
connections. It's not as easy to use as a proper track pump, but much
easier than most hand pumps. There's a fold-out foot that you stand on
and then drive the pump against the ground, like a track pump but smaller.
Yeah. Sodding EVIL. I need 3 stable points to hold position precisely
when performing physical activity (e.g. pumping) or to be able to rock
around on my feet (and move by body as needed) to maintain balance. If
I put my foot on it, that foot ceases to be adequate for balancing. And
when (WHEN not IF) I lose balance, I will fall further than that stupid little hose allows before I can recover.
The key point here is not how difficult I find it, but that there is no >discerbible difference in difficulty between Prestas and Schraeders. In
other words, if I can do one, I can do the other, and if I can't do one
I'd be just as snookered with the other.
Why not just sit or kneel in front of the wheel instead of doing it
stood and bent over? On the 'bent trike you could actually do the front >wheels sat in the chair.
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will see how
much the extra hose length helps. I have got the version without a
gauge, because several reviews damned the gauge to hell, but the pen
gauges used for car tyres are cheap, small, easy to use and accurate.
And, as you may notice, available only for Schraeder.
Nick Maclaren <nmm@wheeler.UUCP> wrote:
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will see how
much the extra hose length helps. I have got the version without a
gauge, because several reviews damned the gauge to hell, but the pen
gauges used for car tyres are cheap, small, easy to use and accurate.
And, as you may notice, available only for Schraeder.
Or for Presta fitted with a Schrader[1] adaptor? I don’t know, but since the adapters have been mentioned upthread then it seems worth
investigating.
Sam
[1] The online references all seem to say “Schrader” rather than “Schraeder” or “Schräder”.
Or for Presta fitted with a Schrader[1] adaptor? I don’t know, but since >the adapters have been mentioned upthread then it seems worth
investigating.
Tosspot <Frank.Leake@gmail.com> wrote:
On 24/03/2020 20:27, Sam Wilson wrote:
Nick Maclaren <nmm@wheeler.UUCP> wrote:
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will
see how much the extra hose length helps. I have got the
version without a gauge, because several reviews damned the
gauge to hell, but the pen gauges used for car tyres are cheap,
small, easy to use and accurate. And, as you may notice,
available only for Schraeder.
Or for Presta fitted with a Schrader[1] adaptor? I don’t know,
but since the adapters have been mentioned upthread then it seems
worth investigating.
No the pressure gauges push the pin down in a schraeder valve, put
and adapter on and it won't work. But since garages have pressure
gauges for me it's a mute point.
So the adaptor doesn’t link the Presta and Schrader pins? Similarly
it relies on pressure from the pump to overcome the Presta valve
rather than pressing the Presta or Schrader pin in like most pumps? Interesting...
Schrader was a German immigrant and in German it would be spelt
Schraeder or with an omelette. Likely in this case with the
omelette and due to early 19th tech it was simply left out. So,
you are correct, for the valve it should be Schrader :-)
Sam
[1] The online references all seem to say “Schrader” rather than
“Schraeder” or “Schräder”.
Not knowing enough German to know if Schrader was a possible German
name I rather assumed that. I’m also assuming that Americans would pronounce Schrader pretty much how a German speaker would pronounce Schräder, rather than how such a speaker would pronounce Schrader!
On 24/03/2020 20:27, Sam Wilson wrote:
Nick Maclaren <nmm@wheeler.UUCP> wrote:
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will see how
much the extra hose length helps. I have got the version without a
gauge, because several reviews damned the gauge to hell, but the pen
gauges used for car tyres are cheap, small, easy to use and accurate.
And, as you may notice, available only for Schraeder.
Or for Presta fitted with a Schrader[1] adaptor? I don’t know, but since >> the adapters have been mentioned upthread then it seems worth
investigating.
No the pressure gauges push the pin down in a schraeder valve, put and adapter on and it won't work. But since garages have pressure gauges
for me it's a mute point.
Schrader was a German immigrant and in German it would be spelt
Schraeder or with an omelette. Likely in this case with the omelette
and due to early 19th tech it was simply left out. So, you are correct,
for the valve it should be Schrader :-)
Sam
[1] The online references all seem to say “Schrader” rather than
“Schraeder” or “Schräder”.
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
I have a bike that was fitted with Schwalbe Delta Cruisers from new. I
never had a puncture with them over about 4 years. The rear one wore out - >> down to the brown belt under the tread - and I swapped it with a
Specialized Infinity Sport Reflect, which appears to be a similar spec and >> half the price of the M+, which I also considered. That was fine for a
while but over the last few months the pressure has started to drop from
about 5 bar to 2 over the course of a week or so, except this week it’s
only down to 3.5 bar. It doesn’t go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
PF doing what s/he/they do best:
- Monday, pump up rear tyre from 3.5 to 5 bar, go for leisurely ride;
- Friday, pump up rear tyre from 3.5 to 5 bar, go for leisurely ride (maintaining social distance);
- Saturday, pump up rear tyre from 3.5 to 5 bar, go for leisurely ride with friends (maintaining social distance except when crossing the Slateford aqueduct and passing other people on the towpath at less than 2 m separation);
- Monday, 10 minutes before doctor’s appointment 5 minutes ride away (it’s
OK, they’re triaging and I’m asymptomatic) rear tyre is completely flat - pump up to 5 bar and it’s down to 4 bar 30 minutes later when I get home.
I’m going to have to do something about that one.
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
I have a bike that was fitted with Schwalbe Delta Cruisers from
new. I never had a puncture with them over about 4 years. The
rear one wore out - down to the brown belt under the tread - and
I swapped it with a Specialized Infinity Sport Reflect, which
appears to be a similar spec and half the price of the M+, which
I also considered. That was fine for a while but over the last
few months the pressure has started to drop from about 5 bar to 2
over the course of a week or so, except this week it’s only down
to 3.5 bar. It doesn’t go below 2 bar as far as I can tell.
PF doing what s/he/they do best:
- Monday, pump up rear tyre from 3.5 to 5 bar, go for leisurely
ride; - Friday, pump up rear tyre from 3.5 to 5 bar, go for
leisurely ride (maintaining social distance); - Saturday, pump up
rear tyre from 3.5 to 5 bar, go for leisurely ride with friends
(maintaining social distance except when crossing the Slateford
aqueduct and passing other people on the towpath at less than 2 m
separation); - Monday, 10 minutes before doctor’s appointment 5
minutes ride away (it’s OK, they’re triaging and I’m asymptomatic)
rear tyre is completely flat - pump up to 5 bar and it’s down to 4
bar 30 minutes later when I get home.
I’m going to have to do something about that one.
And following Jolly polly’s information about removable Presta cores
I can confirm that that inner also had a removable core. I took the
inner out, checked for leaks (tested negative), took the valve core
out, gave it a good coat of looking at and reassembled the whole
thing. A week later the tyre is still fully inflated.
Good call, Polly, thank you - looks like the PF had suborned my
valves.
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
On 16 Mar 2020 at 11:16:14 GMT, "Sam Wilson" <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
It's taken me two weeks of mildly wondering, but... is it Puncture Fairy?
Cheers - Jaimie
Jaimie Vandenbergh <jaimie@usually.sessile.org> wrote:
On 16 Mar 2020 at 11:16:14 GMT, "Sam Wilson"
<ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
It's taken me two weeks of mildly wondering, but... is it Puncture Fairy?
It would be, she even used to have a Twitter account!
In article <r6567q$afa$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Jaimie Vandenbergh <jaimie@usually.sessile.org> wrote:
On 16 Mar 2020 at 11:16:14 GMT, "Sam Wilson"It would be, she even used to have a Twitter account!
<ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
[Note for Scottish readers: Not that kind of PF]
It's taken me two weeks of mildly wondering, but... is it Puncture Fairy? >>
Yes, but what I want to know is what the other kind of PF is in
Scotland!
Yes, but what I want to know is what the other kind of PF is in
Scotland!
Procurator Fiscal. Another entity you want to keep on the right side of.
In article <r65ic0$2tt$1@dont-email.me>,
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
Yes, but what I want to know is what the other kind of PF is in
Scotland!
Procurator Fiscal. Another entity you want to keep on the right side of.
Silly of me! Thanks. At least the two offices are separate :-)
On 3 Apr 2020 at 12:01:47 BST, "Nick Maclaren" <Nick Maclaren> wrote:
In article <r65ic0$2tt$1@dont-email.me>,
Sam Wilson <ukr@dummy.wislons.fastmail.co.uk> wrote:
Silly of me! Thanks. At least the two offices are separate :-)
Yes, but what I want to know is what the other kind of PF is in
Scotland!
Procurator Fiscal. Another entity you want to keep on the right side of. >>
I hadn't even got as far as wondering about the Scottish PF, so thank you for asking that question!
I've just pumped up the road bike to full for the first time since last spring. Rather concerned that the aging Marathons might be approaching spontaneous disassembly age, but they look pretty rubbery still, no cracks. Fingers crossed.
Cheers - Jaimie
Jaimie Vandenbergh <jaimie@usually.sessile.org> wrote:
I've just pumped up the road bike to full for the first time since last
spring. Rather concerned that the aging Marathons might be approaching
spontaneous disassembly age, but they look pretty rubbery still, no cracks. >> Fingers crossed.
I always understood it that for most part cracking was cosmetic than >structural, ie in the rubber rather than in the carcass.
Though I believe that earlier Marathons could be prone to this,
particularly if under inflated I seem to recall reading one Schwalbe note, >probably when I was looking at options before choosing Big Apples to
replace the Marathon Plus Touring.
In article <r6a349$52v$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Jaimie Vandenbergh <jaimie@usually.sessile.org> wrote:
I've just pumped up the road bike to full for the first time since last
spring. Rather concerned that the aging Marathons might be approaching
spontaneous disassembly age, but they look pretty rubbery still, no cracks. >>> Fingers crossed.
I always understood it that for most part cracking was cosmetic than
structural, ie in the rubber rather than in the carcass.
Surface cracking is cosmetic, yes, but when it reaches the carcase,
it's structural. Remember that it's like fibreglass - once the
binding fails, the tyre stops being a composite structure, and the
fabric will start to separate and even tear.
Though I believe that earlier Marathons could be prone to this,
particularly if under inflated I seem to recall reading one Schwalbe note, >> probably when I was looking at options before choosing Big Apples to
replace the Marathon Plus Touring.
Yes, they were. You had to underinflate them quite a lot, but many
people did.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Surface cracking is cosmetic, yes, but when it reaches the carcase,
it's structural. Remember that it's like fibreglass - once the
binding fails, the tyre stops being a composite structure, and the
fabric will start to separate and even tear.
I've generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much! >Oddly the Big Apples are picking up gravel shards though seems to be coping >with glass. Which did for the Marathons or rather got to the point I felt >some of the wounds where too big!
The only tyres I can remember cracking was some very cheap tyres that where >fitting new to the bike, which I'd been meaning to replace any way.
In article <r6b3js$27g$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Surface cracking is cosmetic, yes, but when it reaches the carcase,
it's structural. Remember that it's like fibreglass - once the
binding fails, the tyre stops being a composite structure, and the
fabric will start to separate and even tear.
I've generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much!
Oddly the Big Apples are picking up gravel shards though seems to be coping >> with glass. Which did for the Marathons or rather got to the point I felt
some of the wounds where too big!
The only tyres I can remember cracking was some very cheap tyres that where >> fitting new to the bike, which I'd been meaning to replace any way.
Yes, those are most of the ones I have seen crack. The Marathons I
saw cracked were all run far too often at below 25 PSI (sometimes
below 15) for 622x37. That also causes the tyre to move on braking,
which twists and writes off the tube!
I am interested what they are resistant against. My Big Ben Pluses
on the trike are rather prone to (needle-like) thorn punctures; my
Marthon Pluses seem immune to that, because of the thickness of the
tread and protective band. I never had much problem from glass,
possibly because I can't ride safely near the gutter and on the local
psychle farcilities, anyway.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
Nick Maclaren <nmm@wheeler.UUCP> wrote:
In article <r6a349$52v$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
I always understood it that for most part cracking was cosmetic than
structural, ie in the rubber rather than in the carcass.
Surface cracking is cosmetic, yes, but when it reaches the carcase,
it's structural. Remember that it's like fibreglass - once the
binding fails, the tyre stops being a composite structure, and the
fabric will start to separate and even tear.
I’ve generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much!
Kim Wall <kim@ductilebiscuit.net> wrote:
Indeed. In the absence of catastrophic damage, I've found they
eventually get to a point where they start getting regular punctures,
rather than generally not getting punctures. There's usually a fair
amount of tread left, and no obvious signs of falling apart.
With the Marathon plus/Touring that doesn’t seem to have happened might well with the Big Apples, it’s what seems to happen to road tyres often. but the plus bit keeps working it’s just that over the 7/8k of Miles it’s picked up enough slashes that gets to the point I’m uncomfortable using them any more.
On 05/04/2020 00:01, Roger Merriman wrote:
Nick Maclaren <nmm@wheeler.UUCP> wrote:
In article <r6a349$52v$1@dont-email.me>,
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
I always understood it that for most part cracking was cosmetic than
structural, ie in the rubber rather than in the carcass.
Surface cracking is cosmetic, yes, but when it reaches the carcase,
it's structural. Remember that it's like fibreglass - once the
binding fails, the tyre stops being a composite structure, and the
fabric will start to separate and even tear.
I’ve generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much!
Indeed. In the absence of catastrophic damage, I've found they
eventually get to a point where they start getting regular punctures,
rather than generally not getting punctures. There's usually a fair
amount of tread left, and no obvious signs of falling apart.
Kim.
In uk.rec.cycling.moderated on Sun, 5 Apr 2020 21:39:14 -0000 (UTC)
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> wrote:
Kim Wall <kim@ductilebiscuit.net> wrote:
Indeed. In the absence of catastrophic damage, I've found they
eventually get to a point where they start getting regular punctures,
rather than generally not getting punctures. There's usually a fair
amount of tread left, and no obvious signs of falling apart.
With the Marathon plus/Touring that doesn’t seem to have happened might
well with the Big Apples, it’s what seems to happen to road tyres often. >> but the plus bit keeps working it’s just that over the 7/8k of Miles it’s
picked up enough slashes that gets to the point I’m uncomfortable using
them any more.
THe ones on the 2 wheel 'bent so far have worn the tread to the belt
without getting punctures.
I suspect I'm riding on better swept roads...
The Conti Contact Speeds have held up very well on the trike so far but mostly local where there aren't many horrors. Some glass but looks like
the NSW drink container deposit scheme is working: the glass I'm seeing
now is windscreen glass not bottle glass so lumps not sharp bits.
I noticed that when I lived in Adelaide which had a bottle refund schem
for years: you just don't get broken bottles on the road there.
Zebee
I’ve generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much!
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> writes:
I’ve generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much!
Mine seem to reach a point where tiny shards of gravel stick in rather
than coming out; that typically is fairly shortly followed by punctures
(as a shard gets far enough in to start puncturing), so I try and
replace at that point rather than after having to find the offending
fragment in the dark by the roadside...
In article <np37dys3iu1.fsf@sanger.ac.uk>,
Matthew Vernon <matthew@debian.org> wrote:
Roger Merriman <roger@sarlet.com> writes:
I’ve generally replaced marathons types when the war wounds get too much! >>Mine seem to reach a point where tiny shards of gravel stick in rather
than coming out; that typically is fairly shortly followed by punctures
(as a shard gets far enough in to start puncturing), so I try and
replace at that point rather than after having to find the offending
fragment in the dark by the roadside...
Yes. That's why I find there is no substitute for tread - e.g. Marathon
Plus Tour is good, but ordinary Marathon Plus only so-so, and even much cheaper tready tyres are as good. What I think happens is that:
If such shards/thorns/whatever get stuck into the thread, they break off
in use, and gradually get pushed in, but there is a sufficient distance
that they don't get the whole way - I have found quite a lot of such
things, on inspection of older tyres.
If they go between the tread (unusual, but happens), they break off,
and the tread prevents them from being pushed in the whole way, so an infrequent inspection and removal is enough. I have also found a few
such things in that state.
But, as always, it's a matter of probabilities - and then there are
large cuts, which I have very rarely had, but I know some people get
quite a lot.
Regards,
Nick Maclaren.
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will see how
much the extra hose length helps. I have got the version without a
gauge, because several reviews damned the gauge to hell, but the pen
gauges used for car tyres are cheap, small, easy to use and accurate.
And, as you may notice, available only for Schraeder.
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will see how
much the extra hose length helps. I have got the version without a
gauge, because several reviews damned the gauge to hell, but the pen
gauges used for car tyres are cheap, small, easy to use and accurate.
And, as you may notice, available only for Schraeder.
How did you go with the pump Nick?
In article <slrnrc1ld3.95b.zebeej@gmail.com>,
Zebee Johnstone <zebeej@gmail.com> wrote:
I am getting the Lezyne valve than zeebee suggested, and will see how
much the extra hose length helps. I have got the version without a
gauge, because several reviews damned the gauge to hell, but the pen
gauges used for car tyres are cheap, small, easy to use and accurate.
And, as you may notice, available only for Schraeder.
How did you go with the pump Nick?
It's OK, but I haven't used it much, because I am under lockdown,
and the frame pump is much easier. Thanks for the reminder, because
I must start using it instead of that to give it a better test.
Initial verdict: I can use it standing up, though I have to stoop,
especially as the valve needs to be low down for the pen gauge.
It's a pain not having a direct-reading gauge, but the reviews were
SO damning I didn't want to take the risk.
Really?
I've not had to use mine in anger but I've tested it on all my bikes.
No idea what the gauge issue is - not having seen it mentioned in any
reviews I saw - but for me it seems to do the job.
What problem did the reviewers see?
In article <slrnrc344b.95b.zebeej@gmail.com>,
Zebee Johnstone <zebeej@gmail.com> wrote:
Really?
I've not had to use mine in anger but I've tested it on all my bikes.
No idea what the gauge issue is - not having seen it mentioned in any >>reviews I saw - but for me it seems to do the job.
What problem did the reviewers see?
Grossly inaccurate and leaked. About 10% of the buyers reported
such problems, which I felt was too high.
I've not had to use mine in anger but I've tested it on all my bikes.
No idea what the gauge issue is - not having seen it mentioned in any >>>reviews I saw - but for me it seems to do the job.
What problem did the reviewers see?
Grossly inaccurate and leaked. About 10% of the buyers reported
such problems, which I felt was too high.
on my 2 wheel 'bent's presta 26" the gauge read the same as my
floor pump's within a psi or so, and on the trike's rear tyre which
is schraeder seemed to the the same as my elderly pen gauge. I have
noticed no leakage. So guess I'm in the 90% of lucky ones.
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