• Correctly Torquing Rubber Gaskets

    From Cursitor Doom@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jun 20 18:43:16 2021
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load
    of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket;
    the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up
    the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up
    the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling
    through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket
    was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could
    that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque
    settings?

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  • From newshound@21:1/5 to Cursitor Doom on Sun Jun 20 21:01:20 2021
    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load
    of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket;
    the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up
    the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up
    the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling
    through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket
    was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could
    that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque
    settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Garages use pumps to suck out oil out from sump and gearbox fillers for
    a reason.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RJH@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 21 06:44:01 2021
    On 20 Jun 2021 at 21:01:20 BST, "newshound" <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load
    of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket;
    the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up
    the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up
    the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling
    through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket
    was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could
    that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque
    settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Yes, that and/or the securing bolts weren't torqued up to the same level, causing the cover to warp slightly - easily done if access difficult. Learnt this the hard way with a water pump cover.

    Consistent torquing is at least as important as level.


    Garages use pumps to suck out oil out from sump and gearbox fillers for
    a reason.


    --
    Cheers, Rob

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  • From newshound@21:1/5 to RJH on Mon Jun 21 10:41:17 2021
    On 21/06/2021 07:44, RJH wrote:
    On 20 Jun 2021 at 21:01:20 BST, "newshound" <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load
    of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket;
    the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up >>> the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up
    the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling
    through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket >>> was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could
    that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque
    settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Yes, that and/or the securing bolts weren't torqued up to the same level, causing the cover to warp slightly - easily done if access difficult. Learnt this the hard way with a water pump cover.

    Consistent torquing is at least as important as level.


    Agree 100%. I don't know the geometry of that sump, but traditional
    pressed steel engine sumps with thick cork gaskets usually had lots of
    bolts, making them slightly less sensitive. Water pumps were always
    prone to that.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Cursitor Doom@21:1/5 to newshound@stevejqr.plus.com on Mon Jun 21 14:43:03 2021
    On Mon, 21 Jun 2021 10:41:17 +0100, newshound
    <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    On 21/06/2021 07:44, RJH wrote:
    On 20 Jun 2021 at 21:01:20 BST, "newshound" <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com>
    wrote:

    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load >>>> of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket; >>>> the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up >>>> the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up >>>> the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling >>>> through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket >>>> was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could >>>> that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque
    settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Yes, that and/or the securing bolts weren't torqued up to the same level,
    causing the cover to warp slightly - easily done if access difficult. Learnt >> this the hard way with a water pump cover.

    Consistent torquing is at least as important as level.


    Agree 100%. I don't know the geometry of that sump,


    Dunno why I didn't think of just posting a link to the damn thing!

    https://tinyurl.com/zey2m648

    This is the top view they're showing, so the hollow of the 'U' section
    that the lip of the pan fits into is not visible from this angle.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From newshound@21:1/5 to Cursitor Doom on Tue Jun 22 13:45:43 2021
    On 21/06/2021 14:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    On Mon, 21 Jun 2021 10:41:17 +0100, newshound
    <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    On 21/06/2021 07:44, RJH wrote:
    On 20 Jun 2021 at 21:01:20 BST, "newshound" <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> >>> wrote:

    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes >>>>> E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been >>>>> well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are >>>>> supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load >>>>> of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket; >>>>> the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up >>>>> the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up >>>>> the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling >>>>> through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short, >>>>> ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a >>>>> torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket >>>>> was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts >>>>> up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could >>>>> that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque >>>>> settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Yes, that and/or the securing bolts weren't torqued up to the same level, >>> causing the cover to warp slightly - easily done if access difficult. Learnt
    this the hard way with a water pump cover.

    Consistent torquing is at least as important as level.


    Agree 100%. I don't know the geometry of that sump,


    Dunno why I didn't think of just posting a link to the damn thing!

    https://tinyurl.com/zey2m648

    This is the top view they're showing, so the hollow of the 'U' section
    that the lip of the pan fits into is not visible from this angle.

    I'm guessing it does not have that many bolts then. That said, I'd
    expect a Merc sump cover to be pretty well designed against deformation
    either from variable torque or temperature effects. IME relatively thick
    rubber gaskets and washers, provided they are adequately constrained,
    are normally *very* reliable. As I said, I'd expect the cause to be
    large debris or damage to one of the three parts, all of which should be revealed on dismantling.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Dave Plowman (News)@21:1/5 to newshound on Tue Jun 22 15:48:52 2021
    In article <ap-dnavTbNUMA1L9nZ2dnUU78T3NnZ2d@brightview.co.uk>,
    newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load
    of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket;
    the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up
    the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up
    the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket
    was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could
    that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Garages use pumps to suck out oil out from sump and gearbox fillers for
    a reason.

    Many autos require a filter change at the same time as the very infrequent fluid changes.

    --
    *The last thing I want to do is hurt you. But it's still on my list.

    Dave Plowman dave@davenoise.co.uk London SW
    To e-mail, change noise into sound.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Cursitor Doom@21:1/5 to newshound@stevejqr.plus.com on Wed Jun 23 00:54:01 2021
    On Tue, 22 Jun 2021 13:45:43 +0100, newshound
    <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    On 21/06/2021 14:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    On Mon, 21 Jun 2021 10:41:17 +0100, newshound
    <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    On 21/06/2021 07:44, RJH wrote:
    On 20 Jun 2021 at 21:01:20 BST, "newshound" <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> >>>> wrote:

    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes >>>>>> E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been >>>>>> well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are >>>>>> supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load >>>>>> of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket; >>>>>> the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up
    the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up >>>>>> the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling >>>>>> through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short, >>>>>> ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a >>>>>> torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket
    was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts >>>>>> up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could >>>>>> that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque >>>>>> settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Yes, that and/or the securing bolts weren't torqued up to the same level, >>>> causing the cover to warp slightly - easily done if access difficult. Learnt
    this the hard way with a water pump cover.

    Consistent torquing is at least as important as level.


    Agree 100%. I don't know the geometry of that sump,


    Dunno why I didn't think of just posting a link to the damn thing!

    https://tinyurl.com/zey2m648

    This is the top view they're showing, so the hollow of the 'U' section
    that the lip of the pan fits into is not visible from this angle.

    I'm guessing it does not have that many bolts then. That said, I'd
    expect a Merc sump cover to be pretty well designed against deformation >either from variable torque or temperature effects. IME relatively thick >rubber gaskets and washers, provided they are adequately constrained,
    are normally *very* reliable. As I said, I'd expect the cause to be
    large debris or damage to one of the three parts, all of which should be >revealed on dismantling.

    Duly noted, Newsy. I only suspected it was deformation because I'd
    reached the point where the bolts wouldn't turn any more - which
    didn't seem right and no, they were not x-threaded or anything. And
    this was at no great torque, too. I do have a TW ideal for this
    purpose but couldn't grab it without getting out from under the car
    and walking 20' and back. An unforgivable bit of laziness on my part I
    admit. :(

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Cursitor Doom@21:1/5 to dave@davenoise.co.uk on Wed Jun 23 00:48:21 2021
    On Tue, 22 Jun 2021 15:48:52 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)" <dave@davenoise.co.uk> wrote:

    In article <ap-dnavTbNUMA1L9nZ2dnUU78T3NnZ2d@brightview.co.uk>,
    newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
    On 20/06/2021 18:43, Cursitor Doom wrote:
    So anyway, I've decided to change the ATF and filter on my Mercedes
    E270 CDI which I keep as a spare cheap runabout. Only paid the
    equivalent of 2 grand for it. It's showing 135k miles but has been
    well looked after by previous owners. I know these auto boxes are
    supposed to be sealed for life and maintenance-free but that's a load
    of old cobblers as I think we all know by now.
    Anyway, the oll pan on these 'boxes uses a 'U' section rubber gasket;
    the lip around the edge of the pan fits inside this U. So I've done up
    the bolts and filled it back up with ATF. They say you should warm up
    the engine and check the level with it running in park after cycling
    through N,P,D and R a few times. Anyway, to cut a long story short,
    ATF was pissing out everywhere. I admit I got lazy and didn't use a
    torque wrench to do up the bolts, but I did check to ensure the gasket
    was still correctly seated over the pan's lip after doing the bolts
    up. I can only think the problem came from not using a TW, but could
    that really cause it? How fussy are these rubber gaskets WRT torque
    settings?


    My bet would be that you have got a mechanical problem somewhere,
    perhaps a cut gasket or a significant lump of trapped debris.

    Garages use pumps to suck out oil out from sump and gearbox fillers for
    a reason.

    Many autos require a filter change at the same time as the very infrequent >fluid changes.

    These aren't the monolithic type built in to the pan like some are.
    But they're just push-in; couldn't be simpler so yes, I'll be changing
    that at the same time.

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