• Smiths industries Immersion timer ETU2000 failing

    From Andrew@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 21 14:42:20 2024
    I fitted this about 20 years ago and it has never failed
    (even after powercuts) until now. Being 'made in the UK'
    I expect it used better components than all their latest
    timers. The 7-day plug in timer that I bought in 2010
    (also Smiths) was 'made in China' and unless it is plugged
    into an old BT exchange surge protector, it loses its settings
    randomly after anywhere from 12 to 36 hours. The ETU2000
    is also electronic but it has been bullet-proof until very
    recently.

    Symptoms are that after turning ON, it never turns OFF
    after the set time. Sometimes it garbles the LCD screen.

    The hot tank is very well insulated and the stat on the
    immersion kicks in at 60C but I don't want to trust this
    and nor do I want in on 24/7.

    This seems to be a suitable time to upgrade to something
    that I can control via my PC or phone but I cannot find
    any immersion controllers that are intended for just one
    heater. Horstmann seem to do one for economy 7 but it is
    £95. It does have a blutooth interface as standard but
    the output relays are only rated at 13 amps. All the
    dedicated standalone single heater immersion timers seem
    to be rated at 16amps. Is this an issue ?.

    If I could find a suitable mains/mains relay with output
    16amp resistive switching then I could presumably activate
    it using a smart plug but there would be some ?back emf
    to the smart plug at the end of the timing period.

    I assume that the main timing logic of the ETU2000 is
    not at fault. Pressing the Boost and reset buttons for the
    required 3 seconds resets it, the relay clicks and the
    output LED goes off (as it should after a timed period).
    Presumably some discrete component has failed or is failing
    but I don't have any way of proving this.

    There must be relay devices that are intended for use with
    Zigbee/IFTTT setups that I could use in place of a dedicated
    immersion timer ?.

    Andrew

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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 21 17:32:43 2024
    On 21/01/2024 16:41, Tim+ wrote:
    Andrew <Andrew97d@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I fitted this about 20 years ago and it has never failed
    (even after powercuts) until now. Being 'made in the UK'
    I expect it used better components than all their latest
    timers. The 7-day plug in timer that I bought in 2010
    (also Smiths) was 'made in China' and unless it is plugged
    into an old BT exchange surge protector, it loses its settings
    randomly after anywhere from 12 to 36 hours. The ETU2000
    is also electronic but it has been bullet-proof until very
    recently.

    Symptoms are that after turning ON, it never turns OFF
    after the set time. Sometimes it garbles the LCD screen.

    The hot tank is very well insulated and the stat on the
    immersion kicks in at 60C but I don't want to trust this
    and nor do I want in on 24/7.

    This seems to be a suitable time to upgrade to something
    that I can control via my PC or phone but I cannot find
    any immersion controllers that are intended for just one
    heater. Horstmann seem to do one for economy 7 but it is
    £95. It does have a blutooth interface as standard but
    the output relays are only rated at 13 amps. All the
    dedicated standalone single heater immersion timers seem
    to be rated at 16amps. Is this an issue ?.

    If I could find a suitable mains/mains relay with output
    16amp resistive switching then I could presumably activate
    it using a smart plug but there would be some ?back emf
    to the smart plug at the end of the timing period.

    I assume that the main timing logic of the ETU2000 is
    not at fault. Pressing the Boost and reset buttons for the
    required 3 seconds resets it, the relay clicks and the
    output LED goes off (as it should after a timed period).
    Presumably some discrete component has failed or is failing
    but I don't have any way of proving this.

    There must be relay devices that are intended for use with
    Zigbee/IFTTT setups that I could use in place of a dedicated
    immersion timer ?.

    Andrew




    I’ve been using a cheap Sonoff Wi-Fi switch to control my immersion heater for years with no problems. My one has been superseded by this one with a slightly higher power rating (20A vs 16A).

    SONOFF POW Elite 20A Smart Power Meter Switch, WiFi Wireless Outlet with Power and Energy Monitoring, Control Lights and Appliances from Phone,
    Manage Energy for DIY Smart Home,Works with Alexa https://amzn.eu/d/ajKKud8

    Other stockists are available.

    Tim

    Thanks.

    I have been wading through the Vesternet site and all their
    huge array of offerings. I'll have a look at Sonoff stuff.

    I just tried using the 1hr boost button on my ETU2000 and
    it powered on the immersion and exactly 1 hour later it
    clicked the relay off, so some of the functionality is still
    there.

    I have a nagging suspicion that it might be external
    electronic noise making the timer unit go funny, but there
    is no way of proving this without expensive monitoring kit.

    It is 20 years old so it must have a nicad battery. I'll
    try and have a look inside to see if anything has leaked
    and damaged the circuit board.

    The LCD is becoming difficult to read, their later models
    seem better in that respect but TBH using an app on my
    phone is quite appealing.

    Andrew

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jan 21 18:32:25 2024
    On 21/01/2024 16:41, Tim+ wrote:
    Andrew <Andrew97d@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I fitted this about 20 years ago and it has never failed
    (even after powercuts) until now. Being 'made in the UK'
    I expect it used better components than all their latest
    timers. The 7-day plug in timer that I bought in 2010
    (also Smiths) was 'made in China' and unless it is plugged
    into an old BT exchange surge protector, it loses its settings
    randomly after anywhere from 12 to 36 hours. The ETU2000
    is also electronic but it has been bullet-proof until very
    recently.

    Symptoms are that after turning ON, it never turns OFF
    after the set time. Sometimes it garbles the LCD screen.

    The hot tank is very well insulated and the stat on the
    immersion kicks in at 60C but I don't want to trust this
    and nor do I want in on 24/7.

    This seems to be a suitable time to upgrade to something
    that I can control via my PC or phone but I cannot find
    any immersion controllers that are intended for just one
    heater. Horstmann seem to do one for economy 7 but it is
    £95. It does have a blutooth interface as standard but
    the output relays are only rated at 13 amps. All the
    dedicated standalone single heater immersion timers seem
    to be rated at 16amps. Is this an issue ?.

    If I could find a suitable mains/mains relay with output
    16amp resistive switching then I could presumably activate
    it using a smart plug but there would be some ?back emf
    to the smart plug at the end of the timing period.

    I assume that the main timing logic of the ETU2000 is
    not at fault. Pressing the Boost and reset buttons for the
    required 3 seconds resets it, the relay clicks and the
    output LED goes off (as it should after a timed period).
    Presumably some discrete component has failed or is failing
    but I don't have any way of proving this.

    There must be relay devices that are intended for use with
    Zigbee/IFTTT setups that I could use in place of a dedicated
    immersion timer ?.

    Andrew




    I’ve been using a cheap Sonoff Wi-Fi switch to control my immersion heater for years with no problems. My one has been superseded by this one with a slightly higher power rating (20A vs 16A).

    SONOFF POW Elite 20A Smart Power Meter Switch, WiFi Wireless Outlet with Power and Energy Monitoring, Control Lights and Appliances from Phone,
    Manage Energy for DIY Smart Home,Works with Alexa https://amzn.eu/d/ajKKud8

    Other stockists are available.

    Tim


    The amazon UK page seems to show it attached to a din rail
    even though the Sonoff site shows it fixed to a wall with a
    cover to protect the mains connectors.

    Is yours fitted to a DIN rail or to wall directly ?

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/POWR3-Monitoring-Wireless-Compatible-Function/dp/B09XB3RZB9?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

    Also there is a more expensive version on this amazon page that
    is physically different and lacks an LCD, and it costs ~£42
    rather than ~£24.

    I don't use Alexa, so I hope I can just manage it using the
    phone app to simply set on/off times. I don't care about
    measuring power usage, I can do the maths in my head.

    Andrew

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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to Brian Gaff on Wed Jan 24 12:13:56 2024
    Brian,

    Today I have removed it and it is running from a flying lead
    on my desk and so far it is behaving perfectly !. Grrr.

    I am only using a plug and flex from a table lamp, so no
    earth connection though.

    The immersion is still connected to a 15 amp rewireable
    fuse in the wylex fuse board, so I have no idea if the
    immersion heater element is starting to fail. How would
    I test it ?. The original (? dual pole) switch is still
    in situ, with the original flex feeding the Smiths
    timer and a new length of heatproof flex going to the
    immersion. I have connected the ends of the two flexes
    that went into/out of the timer using a 45 amp output
    cover so that I can use the immersion manually. I notice
    that the original switch gets a bit warm after 15 minutes.
    Not what I would expect. Do switch contacts need to be
    exercised to remove corrosion ?. For 20 years it has
    just been left in the ON position.

    I still need to upgrade the Smiths timer because it has
    on old fashioned lcd display that has no backlight and
    can only be read with a strong light and at a particular
    angle. There are better modern equivalents that use
    backlit displays (but I bet they wont last 20 years) and
    the ability to use a phone, tablet app or some form of
    home automation is quite appealing

    Andrew



    On 22/01/2024 10:09, Brian Gaff wrote:
    This sounds like capacitor trouble in its psu. they dry out and the unit tends to get low voltages marred by interference from parts of the circuit. My Immersion heater timer lost its battery back up but a new solder in one brought it back to life, and it can now cope with a power cut.
    I used to have an el cheapo vcr once that had this fault you describe, and it was also very prone to picking up interference from an electronic tube torch. It was a Philips and it never was fixed. Moving it to another part of the room seemed to fix its tendency to corrupt.
    Brian


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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From alan_m@21:1/5 to Andrew on Thu Jan 25 08:06:14 2024
    On 24/01/2024 12:13, Andrew wrote:

    I still need to upgrade the Smiths timer because it has
    on old fashioned lcd display that has no backlight and
    can only be read with a strong light and at a particular
    angle. There are better modern equivalents that use
    backlit displays (but I bet they wont last 20 years) and
    the ability to use a phone, tablet app or some form of
    home automation is quite appealing

    Quite often the backlight only comes on for a short period when you
    select a function.

    --
    mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jan 25 10:48:04 2024
    On 25/01/2024 08:06, alan_m wrote:
    On 24/01/2024 12:13, Andrew wrote:

    I still need to upgrade the Smiths timer because it has
    on old fashioned lcd display that has no backlight and
    can only be read with a strong light and at a particular
    angle. There are better modern equivalents that use
    backlit displays (but I bet they wont last 20 years) and
    the ability to use a phone, tablet app or some form of
    home automation is quite appealing

    Quite often the backlight only comes on for a short period when you
    select a function.


    I thought that was pretty well standard behaviour, it's the only
    time a backlight would be needed.

    Meanwhile the Smiths Timer is sitting happily on my desk without
    any output load, connected with a length of lighting flex to a
    3pin plug (and without an earth connection) and it is working
    fine.

    QED the problem must be elsewhere.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Sam Plusnet@21:1/5 to Andrew on Thu Jan 25 18:16:30 2024
    On 25-Jan-24 10:48, Andrew wrote:
    On 25/01/2024 08:06, alan_m wrote:
    On 24/01/2024 12:13, Andrew wrote:

    I still need to upgrade the Smiths timer because it has
    on old fashioned lcd display that has no backlight and
    can only be read with a strong light and at a particular
    angle. There are better modern equivalents that use
    backlit displays (but I bet they wont last 20 years) and
    the ability to use a phone, tablet app or some form of
    home automation is quite appealing

    Quite often the backlight only comes on for a short period when you
    select a function.


    I thought that was pretty well standard behaviour, it's the only
    time a backlight would be needed.

    Meanwhile the Smiths Timer is sitting happily on my desk without
    any output load, connected with a length of lighting flex to a
    3pin plug (and without an earth connection) and it is working
    fine.

    QED the problem must be elsewhere.

    In your safety protocols for a start. 😃

    --
    Sam Plusnet

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to Sam Plusnet on Thu Jan 25 18:33:27 2024
    On 25/01/2024 18:16, Sam Plusnet wrote:
    On 25-Jan-24 10:48, Andrew wrote:
    On 25/01/2024 08:06, alan_m wrote:
    On 24/01/2024 12:13, Andrew wrote:

    I still need to upgrade the Smiths timer because it has
    on old fashioned lcd display that has no backlight and
    can only be read with a strong light and at a particular
    angle. There are better modern equivalents that use
    backlit displays (but I bet they wont last 20 years) and
    the ability to use a phone, tablet app or some form of
    home automation is quite appealing

    Quite often the backlight only comes on for a short period when you
    select a function.


    I thought that was pretty well standard behaviour, it's the only
    time a backlight would be needed.

    Meanwhile the Smiths Timer is sitting happily on my desk without
    any output load, connected with a length of lighting flex to a
    3pin plug (and without an earth connection) and it is working
    fine.

    QED the problem must be elsewhere.

    In your safety protocols for a start. 😃

    Why ?. It has a plastic enclosure, there is no output
    connection so all it needs is 230V with minimum current
    draw to test the functionality of the timer. The
    plastic cover over the in/out mains connections is in
    place.

    I wouldn't mind betting that the earth terminals are
    simply there to pass the immersion earth through to
    the house earth and not actually connected to the
    electronics inside the timer.

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