• Re: Removing blade from a Honda mower.

    From Brian@21:1/5 to PeterC on Fri Apr 12 16:55:47 2024
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.

    Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one, a good fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From PeterC@21:1/5 to All on Fri Apr 12 17:30:22 2024
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
    has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
    no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.
    --
    Peter.
    The gods will stay away
    whilst religions hold sway

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From alan_m@21:1/5 to PeterC on Fri Apr 12 18:00:02 2024
    On 12/04/2024 17:30, PeterC wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.

    Lump hammer and shock it off. Spanner/socket on the nut then hit other
    end of the spanner or ratchet bar with the lump hammer.

    Stop the blade from turning with a lump of wood wedged in the deck.

    If it's a petrol mower first remove the spark plug lead

    --
    mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Brian on Fri Apr 12 19:16:56 2024
    On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
    sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's >> no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a >> lot of plastic under there.

    Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one, a good fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.


    Just lock the blades up using anything that comes to hand - wood blocks,
    mole grips, etc. and use serious long bar torque. I mean a 3ft long bar
    - hire but or borrow Also get it red hot with a blowtorch and douse in penetrating oil overnight



    --
    Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

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  • From Andrew@21:1/5 to Brian on Fri Apr 12 19:27:50 2024
    On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
    sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's >> no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a >> lot of plastic under there.

    Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one, a good fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.



    Take it to a tyre fitting place and ask them to undo it with
    their air-impact gun.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peter Able@21:1/5 to All on Fri Apr 12 18:27:56 2024
    On 12/04/2024 18:00, alan_m wrote:


    Lump hammer and shock it off. Spanner/socket on the nut then hit other
    end of the spanner or ratchet bar with the lump hammer.

    Stop the blade from turning with a lump of wood wedged in the deck.

    If it's a petrol mower first remove the spark plug lead

    Agreed. I've had two big Hondas over the years. The first had a thick slasher, rather than a blade. The second was a blade that could be
    sharpened whilst on the mower.

    Can't say more as the OP didn't identify the model. Helpful.

    PA

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  • From Tim Lamb@21:1/5 to tnp@invalid.invalid on Fri Apr 12 20:34:00 2024
    In message <uvbtqo$2garu$1@dont-email.me>, The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> writes
    On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs >>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
    no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there.
    Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one,
    a good
    fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.

    Just lock the blades up using anything that comes to hand - wood
    blocks, mole grips, etc. and use serious long bar torque. I mean a 3ft
    long bar - hire but or borrow Also get it red hot with a blowtorch and
    douse in penetrating oil overnight

    Two retainers were mentioned. Single bolts can be reverse threaded for
    self tightening depending on cutter blade rotation.

    --
    Tim Lamb

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  • From Tim+@21:1/5 to PeterC on Sat Apr 13 06:24:37 2024
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.

    Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver
    is great for jobs like these.

    Tim

    --
    Please don't feed the trolls

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  • From Thomas Prufer@21:1/5 to All on Sat Apr 13 08:57:15 2024
    On Fri, 12 Apr 2024 17:30:22 +0100, PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a >lot of plastic under there.

    Penetrating oil and let it sit for while. May not help, but certainly will not harm...


    Thomas Prufer

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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to All on Sat Apr 13 08:54:04 2024
    On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
    sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's >> no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a >> lot of plastic under there.

    Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver is great for jobs like these.

    Tim

    There is no point in reverse thread on these.
    Its juts massively gunged up.
    My ride on got like that once

    I just added even more torque till it gave up



    --
    Gun Control: The law that ensures that only criminals have guns.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Fredxx@21:1/5 to All on Sat Apr 13 12:37:44 2024
    On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs
    sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's >> no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a >> lot of plastic under there.

    Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver is great for jobs like these.

    I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary mowers
    are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits clippings to
    one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with have been
    ordinary RH threads.

    Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the bolt.
    If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
    the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Davey@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Sat Apr 13 13:36:39 2024
    On Fri, 12 Apr 2024 19:16:56 +0100
    The Natural Philosopher <tnp@invalid.invalid> wrote:

    On 12/04/2024 17:55, Brian wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It
    probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old
    at least). The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the
    spare I have) needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using
    steel handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with
    my size 13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so
    that there's no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might
    shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using
    a torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.

    Chances are you need to use an impact tool. If you don’t have one,
    a good fitting socket with a T bar and a firm ‘tap’ with a hammer.


    Just lock the blades up using anything that comes to hand - wood
    blocks, mole grips, etc. and use serious long bar torque. I mean a
    3ft long bar
    - hire but or borrow Also get it red hot with a blowtorch and douse
    in penetrating oil overnight




    Note his final sentence:
    " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there."

    Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.

    --
    Davey.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Tim Lamb@21:1/5 to All on Sat Apr 13 14:25:13 2024
    In message <uvdqq8$2vntm$1@dont-email.me>, Fredxx <fredxx@spam.invalid>
    writes
    On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs >>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
    no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there.
    Are you certain it isn’t a reverse thread? I cheap electric
    impact driver
    is great for jobs like these.

    I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary
    mowers are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits
    clippings to one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with
    have been ordinary RH threads.

    Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the
    bolt. If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to
    'tighten' the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

    If the blade is retained by an anti slip *slot* or two bolts, there is
    no benefit in using a reverse threaded bolt.
    If the blade relies on bolt tightness only, an eyeball check for
    direction of rotation will indicate the possibility.

    Takes a bit of head juggling but starting at the drive shaft... the
    cutter will try to *slip* in the opposite direction. The retaining bolt
    thread needs to tighten in the direction of slip.


    --
    Tim Lamb

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From PeterC@21:1/5 to Fredxx on Sat Apr 13 19:01:50 2024
    On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 12:37:44 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

    On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably >>> has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs >>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
    no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off, >>> although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there.

    Are you certain it isn¢t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver >> is great for jobs like these.

    I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary mowers
    are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits clippings to
    one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with have been
    ordinary RH threads.

    Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the bolt.
    If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
    the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

    Right, sorry about no model but it's very similar to my still broken one
    (coil poss. but getting help to check for spark is difficult as it needs strength and some skill, which most seem to lack!).
    I always remove the cap from the plug - I don't want to 'bump start' it!
    The bolts are RH thread.
    Hammer, with as much preload as I can manage, tried with sharp blows.
    One undid; the other didn't move at all.
    I can try a torch (got 2 'asbestos' mats) but not too hot, then put oil on
    to cool it and, hopefully, the oil will be 'sucked' in.
    Tyre place - getting something that size on the bus...

    Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from 6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been looking but can't see anything.
    --
    Peter.
    The gods will stay away
    whilst religions hold sway

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David@21:1/5 to PeterC on Sat Apr 13 18:30:42 2024
    On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 19:01:50 +0100, PeterC wrote:

    On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 12:37:44 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

    On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It
    probably has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at
    least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have)
    needs sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size
    13. He moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that
    there's no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might
    shear off, although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a
    torch but there's a lot of plastic under there.

    Are you certain it isnʼt a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact
    driver is great for jobs like these.

    I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary
    mowers are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits
    clippings to one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with
    have been ordinary RH threads.

    Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the
    bolt.
    If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
    the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

    Right, sorry about no model but it's very similar to my still broken one (coil poss. but getting help to check for spark is difficult as it needs strength and some skill, which most seem to lack!).
    I always remove the cap from the plug - I don't want to 'bump start' it!
    The bolts are RH thread.
    Hammer, with as much preload as I can manage, tried with sharp blows.
    One undid; the other didn't move at all.
    I can try a torch (got 2 'asbestos' mats) but not too hot, then put oil
    on to cool it and, hopefully, the oil will be 'sucked' in.
    Tyre place - getting something that size on the bus...

    Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from
    6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been
    looking but can't see anything.

    Is this the kind of thing? <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Socket-Adapter-Extension-Driver/dp/ B077KT6239/?th=1>

    It should certainly work in a cordless drill with an SDS setting.

    Not sure where my set is at the moment so I can't immediately check with
    my impact driver.

    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From PeterC@21:1/5 to David on Sun Apr 14 17:59:58 2024
    On 13 Apr 2024 18:30:42 GMT, David wrote:

    Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from
    6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been
    looking but can't see anything.

    Is this the kind of thing? <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Socket-Adapter-Extension-Driver/dp/ B077KT6239/?th=1>

    It should certainly work in a cordless drill with an SDS setting.

    Not sure where my set is at the moment so I can't immediately check with
    my impact driver.

    Thanks - ordered adaptors and an impact socket
    --
    Peter.
    The gods will stay away
    whilst religions hold sway

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to PeterC on Sun Apr 14 13:37:54 2024
    On 4/13/2024 2:01 PM, PeterC wrote:
    On Sat, 13 Apr 2024 12:37:44 +0100, Fredxx wrote:

    On 13/04/2024 07:24, Tim+ wrote:
    PeterC <giraffenos.pam@homecall.co.uk> wrote:
    A friend 'obtained' for me a self-propelled Honda petrol mower. It probably
    has never been serviced and is, at a guess, 5 years old at least).
    The blade (rather annoyingly an inch longer than the spare I have) needs >>>> sharpening, to be polite about it.
    I couldn't move either bolt, even with about 18" leverage using steel
    handlebars. My neighbour tried whilst I held the blade with my size 13. He >>>> moved one but the other wouldn't budge.
    I might get a better quality 14mm socket, file the end of it so that there's
    no lead-in and it sits right down.

    Any suggestions for moving it, please. I'm worried that it might shear off,
    although I hope it's 8.8 steel. I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there.

    Are you certain it isn¢t a reverse thread? I cheap electric impact driver >>> is great for jobs like these.

    I was thinking the same. I've been caught out before. Many rotary mowers
    are intended to spin in a specific direction that deposits clippings to
    one side. I'm pretty sure the couple I have dealt with have been
    ordinary RH threads.

    Only the OP will know if the bolt moved in the attempt to undo the bolt.
    If it did and then wouldn't move any more I'd be tempted to 'tighten'
    the bolt to see if it moves and undoes.

    Right, sorry about no model but it's very similar to my still broken one (coil poss. but getting help to check for spark is difficult as it needs strength and some skill, which most seem to lack!).
    I always remove the cap from the plug - I don't want to 'bump start' it!
    The bolts are RH thread.
    Hammer, with as much preload as I can manage, tried with sharp blows.
    One undid; the other didn't move at all.
    I can try a torch (got 2 'asbestos' mats) but not too hot, then put oil on
    to cool it and, hopefully, the oil will be 'sucked' in.
    Tyre place - getting something that size on the bus...

    Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from 6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been looking but can't see anything.


    On this one, the two bolts seem conventional and CCW removal.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H1Vvs3Ph4o

    | |
    | |
    | | | xxxH
    (engine) | | |
    | | | xxxH
    | |
    | |
    Plate Blade Blade

    I still can't see how you'd distort
    that enough, to jam the thread. If there
    was a blade strike, the one bolt you did get
    out should also have caused grief.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Harry Bloomfield Esq@21:1/5 to Davey on Sun Apr 14 21:58:42 2024
    On 13/04/2024 13:36, Davey wrote:
    Note his final sentence:
    " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there."

    Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.

    Heat up a sacrificial socket to red heat, then put it on the bolt head
    to transfer it heat to the bolt.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Layman@21:1/5 to Harry Bloomfield Esq on Mon Apr 15 10:54:23 2024
    On 14/04/2024 21:58, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
    On 13/04/2024 13:36, Davey wrote:
    Note his final sentence:
    " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there."

    Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.

    Heat up a sacrificial socket to red heat, then put it on the bolt head
    to transfer it heat to the bolt.

    Heating up the bolt will cause it to expand and grip whatever it's in
    even tighter. You need to heat up the bolt then pour ice-cold water on
    it in the hope that it'll contract away from whatever it's in faster
    than whatever it's in contracts to grip the bolt again!

    --
    Jeff

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Jeff Layman on Mon Apr 15 06:49:51 2024
    On 4/15/2024 5:54 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
    On 14/04/2024 21:58, Harry Bloomfield Esq wrote:
    On 13/04/2024 13:36, Davey wrote:
    Note his final sentence:
    " I wondered about using a torch but there's a
    lot of plastic under there."

    Not a pretty sight if that catches fire.

    Heat up a sacrificial socket to red heat, then put it on the bolt head
    to transfer it heat to the bolt.

    Heating up the bolt will cause it to expand and grip whatever it's in even tighter. You need to heat up the bolt then pour ice-cold water on it in the hope that it'll contract away from whatever it's in faster than whatever it's in contracts to grip
    the bolt again!


    I would look at the bolt that was
    removable, for hints about what
    it would take to stop the
    removal of the other one.

    The thing is probably cross-threaded
    or stripped by overtorque or there is Red Loktite.
    If it had been to a shop, maybe someone
    used a power tool on it, when they should have
    been using a torque wrench like the service
    manual said to do.

    The thread length on the plate, may be
    too short for a simple rust job to hold
    it that securely. Applying a "rust busting"
    recipe, might be a waste of time.

    I don't know if heat is enough to
    degrade Red (permanent) Loktite or not.

    Even examining the back of the plate, where
    the bolt comes through, may give a hint how
    it's been abused. A dental inspection mirror
    might work.

    Paul

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  • From PeterC@21:1/5 to PeterC on Sat Apr 20 17:42:50 2024
    On Sun, 14 Apr 2024 17:59:58 +0100, PeterC wrote:

    On 13 Apr 2024 18:30:42 GMT, David wrote:

    Now, impact driver. Seems best but I don't have the fittings to get from >>> 6mm hex to 3/8" square - the hex stem sockets stop 1mm short. Been
    looking but can't see anything.

    Is this the kind of thing?
    <https://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Socket-Adapter-Extension-Driver/dp/
    B077KT6239/?th=1>

    It should certainly work in a cordless drill with an SDS setting.

    Not sure where my set is at the moment so I can't immediately check with
    my impact driver.

    Thanks - ordered adaptors and an impact socket

    Oh dear, still no good.
    Heated it locally, penetrating oil on hot bolt so that it might take in some
    as it cooled.
    Used impact driver with new socket and adaptor. No effect at all; this might
    be due to the ~10 yo 12V Makita ID.
    Chap down the road works on cars on a professional basis (e.g. _complete_ stripdown, overhaul and rebuild of a BFO Range Rover engine). He has
    air-driven gear for wheel nuts - methinks build up slowly, as an 8mm bolt
    might shear.
    --
    Peter.
    The gods will stay away
    whilst religions hold sway

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