• Extending Ethernet through wall without too many boxes - Xpost

    From David@21:1/5 to All on Mon May 13 11:04:46 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface
    or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    I could fit an extender (socket type) to the cable but I'm not really keen
    on this. Is there a connector with punch down connectors on both sides to extend a run of Ethernet?

    As usual, once I start typing out the details I think of more options.

    Cheers


    Dave R



    --
    W11 Home on Dell XPS 13 i7

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  • From Theo@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 12:40:45 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there, then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface
    or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    If you don't mind 100Mbit, you could split the cat5e into two groups of two pairs. 100M will work over two pairs while gigabit needs four.

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    There are 'in wall APs' which also have a switch: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134217005.html

    Powered by PoE so you can feed that in from the other end of the ethernet.

    TP-Link has the EAPxxx-Wall series which are larger than a single socket box: https://www.tp-link.com/uk/business-networking/omada-eap/#wall-plate-ap

    (either in a double box horizontally, or vertically via a double-to-single plate - need to check mounting holes)

    Maybe one of these would also work as your external AP, ie no need for the extra ethernet? You could use a double cable run outside, eg take one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it outside, plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the outdoor AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket. The AP is outside (needs to be protected from the rain as it's not exterior grade) and the internal socket is now downstream of it.

    Also, some outdoor APs may have a second ethernet port. You can do the same idea with one of those, looping back the second ethernet port to provide a
    port on your socket.

    Theo

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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 12:44:55 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 12:04, David wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    Ok.... so lets here more about that...


    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there, then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I am perplexed. Is this a socket inside an outside wall or outside an
    outside wall?

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface
    or adjoining wall.

    What work surface?

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    Sure. solder a new cable onto the old, replace the double socket with a single, and Robert is a relative


    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    I could fit an extender (socket type) to the cable but I'm not really keen
    on this. Is there a connector with punch down connectors on both sides to extend a run of Ethernet?

    I think you are overthinking this

    Cat 5e is simply an array of low grade twisted pairs. It isn't massively
    fussy about being extended with chocolate blocks and solder/heat shrink
    is way better.
    That's how I extended mine to get a socket in the kitchen.

    What you can't do is multiply the *number* of sockets without a *switch*.
    But switches are very cheap
    If you have or can cobble up power over Ethernet a one to two port
    switch is peanuts and could be buried in the wall...

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Shanrya-Gigabit-Network-Splitter-Adapter/dp/B0BSDNDFQ3

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Ethernet-Portable-Network-Console-BROLEOh5m2veu0w8-12/dp/B0CVG1LC5Y/
    is the cheapest one that doesn't need POE but takes an external power brick



    --
    “Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it everywhere, diagnosing it incorrectly and applying the wrong remedies.”
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  • From John Rumm@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 12:49:20 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 12:04, David wrote:

    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there, then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface
    or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:

    https://www.comms-express.com/products/cat5e-utp-junction-box/

    Note however that you would lose access to the internal socket, since
    you can't just daisy chain network sockets.

    (If you need the internal socket, then select an AP with more than one
    ethernet port on it, and bring a second CAT5 back from the AP, to
    terminate on the socket)


    --
    Cheers,

    John.

    /=================================================================\
    | Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk | |-----------------------------------------------------------------|
    | John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk | \=================================================================/

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  • From David@21:1/5 to Theo on Mon May 13 11:59:55 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:40:45 +0100, Theo wrote:

    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due
    to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out
    there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    If you don't mind 100Mbit, you could split the cat5e into two groups of
    two pairs. 100M will work over two pairs while gigabit needs four.

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    There are 'in wall APs' which also have a switch: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134217005.html

    Powered by PoE so you can feed that in from the other end of the
    ethernet.

    TP-Link has the EAPxxx-Wall series which are larger than a single socket
    box:
    https://www.tp-link.com/uk/business-networking/omada-eap/#wall-plate-ap

    (either in a double box horizontally, or vertically via a
    double-to-single plate - need to check mounting holes)

    Maybe one of these would also work as your external AP, ie no need for
    the extra ethernet? You could use a double cable run outside, eg take
    one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it outside,
    plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the outdoor AP
    to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket. The AP is outside
    (needs to be protected from the rain as it's not exterior grade) and the internal socket is now downstream of it.

    Also, some outdoor APs may have a second ethernet port. You can do the
    same idea with one of those, looping back the second ethernet port to
    provide a port on your socket.

    Theo

    Thanks.
    Interesting stuff.
    However my current wall socket is a double box with a modular face plate.

    There are three connections:

    Ethernet RJ45

    Satellite F-plug (not currently connected

    TV F-plug connected

    So there is little scope for replacing the current faceplate.

    The outside area is under a wrap around car port so is protected from any direct rain

    You said:
    "eg take one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it
    outside, plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the
    outdoor AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket."

    This is my immediate issue - to get enough cable length to take the lead outside.
    After that, running a cable back to the original socket on the internal
    box is relatively trivial.

    The location would not be good for an AP as I want it around the back of
    the house up high under the plastic roof to give the best signal path down
    the garden, and good signal to people sitting out on the deck.

    Some very useful links there, though.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 13:09:52 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    You said:
    "eg take one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it
    outside, plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the
    outdoor AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket."

    This is my immediate issue - to get enough cable length to take the lead outside.
    After that, running a cable back to the original socket on the internal
    box is relatively trivial.

    In which case use a punchdown coupler as suggested. Here's one with a better pic of the innards:
    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/162924849929

    Would that fit in the back of your socket box? Then run two cables from the back of the box to your AP location, one into the coupler and one into the faceplate. Then have a dual-port AP outside.

    Theo

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  • From Pancho@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Mon May 13 12:58:25 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 12:49, John Rumm wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:


    Presuming that works, why not just twist the cables together, strand by
    strand, with a shrink tube around each strand.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David@21:1/5 to John Rumm on Mon May 13 13:03:35 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:49:20 +0100, John Rumm wrote:

    On 13/05/2024 12:04, David wrote:

    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due
    to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out
    there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:

    https://www.comms-express.com/products/cat5e-utp-junction-box/

    Note however that you would lose access to the internal socket, since
    you can't just daisy chain network sockets.

    (If you need the internal socket, then select an AP with more than one ethernet port on it, and bring a second CAT5 back from the AP, to
    terminate on the socket)

    Thanks to all so far.

    I will check, but a double back box already accommodating two Coax cables
    and a Cat5E cable may not have enough spare space for a punch down
    connector.

    Hmmm...more space than I expected.
    Might be able to get a punch down connector in there.
    However I seem to have left plenty of spare cable up inside the cavity
    (always a good idea) so I might just have enough to got through the wall.

    The work was done 12 years ago so my memory is a bit rusty.

    Anyway it is a plasterboard box so should be reasonably easy to get the
    box out of the wall for further investigation.

    Looks like I will be using external Ethernet cabling.

    Are there any issues with using normal indoor Cat5E punch down connectors?
    I assume you just have to strip back to the external sleeve as you would
    with an internal cable.
    Will the cable outer still fit into connectors (RJ45 plug) or do you need
    a different plug?

    The planned run to the shed would have a socket at either end, but running cables outside from a router would require plugs.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tricky Dicky@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 12:52:55 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:40:45 +0100, Theo wrote:

    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due
    to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out
    there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    If you don't mind 100Mbit, you could split the cat5e into two groups of
    two pairs. 100M will work over two pairs while gigabit needs four.

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    There are 'in wall APs' which also have a switch:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134217005.html

    Powered by PoE so you can feed that in from the other end of the
    ethernet.

    TP-Link has the EAPxxx-Wall series which are larger than a single socket
    box:
    https://www.tp-link.com/uk/business-networking/omada-eap/#wall-plate-ap

    (either in a double box horizontally, or vertically via a
    double-to-single plate - need to check mounting holes)

    Maybe one of these would also work as your external AP, ie no need for
    the extra ethernet? You could use a double cable run outside, eg take
    one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it outside,
    plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the outdoor AP
    to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket. The AP is outside
    (needs to be protected from the rain as it's not exterior grade) and the
    internal socket is now downstream of it.

    Also, some outdoor APs may have a second ethernet port. You can do the
    same idea with one of those, looping back the second ethernet port to
    provide a port on your socket.

    Theo

    Thanks.
    Interesting stuff.
    However my current wall socket is a double box with a modular face plate.

    There are three connections:

    Ethernet RJ45

    Satellite F-plug (not currently connected

    TV F-plug connected

    So there is little scope for replacing the current faceplate.

    The outside area is under a wrap around car port so is protected from any direct rain

    You said:
    "eg take one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it
    outside, plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the
    outdoor AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket."

    This is my immediate issue - to get enough cable length to take the lead outside.
    After that, running a cable back to the original socket on the internal
    box is relatively trivial.

    The location would not be good for an AP as I want it around the back of
    the house up high under the plastic roof to give the best signal path down the garden, and good signal to people sitting out on the deck.

    Some very useful links there, though.

    Cheers



    Dave R


    If you can do without the internal RJ45 I would replace any network switch
    with a POE enabled one then all you need to do is run Ethernet to a POE
    enabled AP which could be done by splicing the wires in your existing box. Alternatively get a POE injector plug it into the network socket run your
    cable from outside and plug it into the injector and plug the injector into
    any convenient 13A socket.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David@21:1/5 to Dicky on Mon May 13 13:06:04 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:52:55 +0000, Tricky Dicky wrote:

    David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:40:45 +0100, Theo wrote:

    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain
    due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run
    it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router
    out there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a
    double back box?

    If you don't mind 100Mbit, you could split the cat5e into two groups
    of two pairs. 100M will work over two pairs while gigabit needs four.

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    There are 'in wall APs' which also have a switch:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134217005.html

    Powered by PoE so you can feed that in from the other end of the
    ethernet.

    TP-Link has the EAPxxx-Wall series which are larger than a single
    socket box:
    https://www.tp-link.com/uk/business-networking/omada-eap/#wall-plate-ap

    (either in a double box horizontally, or vertically via a
    double-to-single plate - need to check mounting holes)

    Maybe one of these would also work as your external AP, ie no need for
    the extra ethernet? You could use a double cable run outside, eg take
    one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it outside,
    plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the outdoor
    AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket. The AP is
    outside (needs to be protected from the rain as it's not exterior
    grade) and the internal socket is now downstream of it.

    Also, some outdoor APs may have a second ethernet port. You can do
    the same idea with one of those, looping back the second ethernet port
    to provide a port on your socket.

    Theo

    Thanks.
    Interesting stuff.
    However my current wall socket is a double box with a modular face
    plate.

    There are three connections:

    Ethernet RJ45

    Satellite F-plug (not currently connected

    TV F-plug connected

    So there is little scope for replacing the current faceplate.

    The outside area is under a wrap around car port so is protected from
    any direct rain

    You said:
    "eg take one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it
    outside, plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the
    outdoor AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket."

    This is my immediate issue - to get enough cable length to take the
    lead outside.
    After that, running a cable back to the original socket on the internal
    box is relatively trivial.

    The location would not be good for an AP as I want it around the back
    of the house up high under the plastic roof to give the best signal
    path down the garden, and good signal to people sitting out on the
    deck.

    Some very useful links there, though.

    Cheers



    Dave R


    If you can do without the internal RJ45 I would replace any network
    switch with a POE enabled one then all you need to do is run Ethernet to
    a POE enabled AP which could be done by splicing the wires in your
    existing box. Alternatively get a POE injector plug it into the network socket run your cable from outside and plug it into the injector and
    plug the injector into any convenient 13A socket.

    Thanks.
    I want to retain the internal RJ45 connector as it is part of the sat/TV/ Ethernet point where (should we no longer be able to use upstairs) we can install a big TV in our new living area.

    Cheers



    Dave R



    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Pancho on Mon May 13 13:17:33 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    In uk.d-i-y Pancho <Pancho.Jones@proton.me> wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 12:49, John Rumm wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:


    Presuming that works, why not just twist the cables together, strand by strand, with a shrink tube around each strand.

    Use the proper box for the sake of a couple of quid? Ethernet is high speed signalling, so the signal integrity does matter. Gigabit isn't as fussy as other high speed protocols, and you probably aren't pushing the length
    limits, but even so it's better to use fittings designed for the job, not bodging it. If you bodged it and it's marginal it may *work* but see lots
    of packet errors which reduce your speed - like being on dodgy wifi.

    If you're so space constrained that the proper fittings won't fit, then
    there are ways to do it while preserving the best signal integrity you can (keep pairs together, minimise intra-pair gaps). But much better not to
    have to do that, and the boxes reduce the variability.

    Theo

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Paul@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 09:47:23 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 5/13/2024 7:04 AM, David wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there, then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface
    or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    I could fit an extender (socket type) to the cable but I'm not really keen
    on this. Is there a connector with punch down connectors on both sides to extend a run of Ethernet?

    As usual, once I start typing out the details I think of more options.

    Cheers


    Dave R

    "avoid a box on the work surface"

    Could you put some kit *under* the work surface ?

    As long as nothing else will run into it under
    there, you might be able to do a less-obvious install.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Pancho@21:1/5 to Theo on Mon May 13 15:11:58 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 13:17, Theo wrote:
    In uk.d-i-y Pancho <Pancho.Jones@proton.me> wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 12:49, John Rumm wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double >>>> back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:


    Presuming that works, why not just twist the cables together, strand by
    strand, with a shrink tube around each strand.

    Use the proper box for the sake of a couple of quid?

    Me???? Do a proper job :-).

    But thinking about it, you are right, the cables need to be twisted
    pair. An untwisted stretch > 2cm could be problematic.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Pancho on Mon May 13 15:12:16 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 12:58, Pancho wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 12:49, John Rumm wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:


    Presuming that works, why not just twist the cables together, strand by strand, with a shrink tube around each strand.


    That does work, but its corrosion liable., Solder them as well




    --
    "An intellectual is a person knowledgeable in one field who speaks out
    only in others...”

    Tom Wolfe

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tricky Dicky@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 14:06:35 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:52:55 +0000, Tricky Dicky wrote:

    David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    On Mon, 13 May 2024 12:40:45 +0100, Theo wrote:

    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to >>>>> provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain
    due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run >>>>> it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router
    out there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a
    double back box?

    If you don't mind 100Mbit, you could split the cat5e into two groups
    of two pairs. 100M will work over two pairs while gigabit needs four. >>>>
    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    There are 'in wall APs' which also have a switch:
    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134217005.html

    Powered by PoE so you can feed that in from the other end of the
    ethernet.

    TP-Link has the EAPxxx-Wall series which are larger than a single
    socket box:
    https://www.tp-link.com/uk/business-networking/omada-eap/#wall-plate-ap >>>>
    (either in a double box horizontally, or vertically via a
    double-to-single plate - need to check mounting holes)

    Maybe one of these would also work as your external AP, ie no need for >>>> the extra ethernet? You could use a double cable run outside, eg take >>>> one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it outside,
    plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the outdoor
    AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket. The AP is
    outside (needs to be protected from the rain as it's not exterior
    grade) and the internal socket is now downstream of it.

    Also, some outdoor APs may have a second ethernet port. You can do
    the same idea with one of those, looping back the second ethernet port >>>> to provide a port on your socket.

    Theo

    Thanks.
    Interesting stuff.
    However my current wall socket is a double box with a modular face
    plate.

    There are three connections:

    Ethernet RJ45

    Satellite F-plug (not currently connected

    TV F-plug connected

    So there is little scope for replacing the current faceplate.

    The outside area is under a wrap around car port so is protected from
    any direct rain

    You said:
    "eg take one cable from behind your internal ethernet socket, run it
    outside, plug into the AP, take second cable and run it back from the
    outdoor AP to connect to the faceplate of the internal socket."

    This is my immediate issue - to get enough cable length to take the
    lead outside.
    After that, running a cable back to the original socket on the internal
    box is relatively trivial.

    The location would not be good for an AP as I want it around the back
    of the house up high under the plastic roof to give the best signal
    path down the garden, and good signal to people sitting out on the
    deck.

    Some very useful links there, though.

    Cheers



    Dave R


    If you can do without the internal RJ45 I would replace any network
    switch with a POE enabled one then all you need to do is run Ethernet to
    a POE enabled AP which could be done by splicing the wires in your
    existing box. Alternatively get a POE injector plug it into the network
    socket run your cable from outside and plug it into the injector and
    plug the injector into any convenient 13A socket.

    Thanks.
    I want to retain the internal RJ45 connector as it is part of the sat/TV/ Ethernet point where (should we no longer be able to use upstairs) we can install a big TV in our new living area.

    Cheers



    Dave R




    As TNP has already said network switches can be daisy chained as long as
    you do not go overboard. As your existing socket is mounted on a
    plasterboard back box I presume it is either a stud wall or dot and dab. Temporarily removing the box may in a stud wall enable you to put a small
    two port network switch enabled for POE in the cavity and wire in your
    existing Ethernet to it and then back to the existing network point and the exterior AP. At some point further back on the existing Cat5e use a POE injector or replace your network switch with a POE type. For dot & dab you
    may have to do a bit of chiselling out to make more room which might be
    easier if you are prepared to take out and afterwards replace and fill a section of PB.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 15:23:05 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 14:06, David wrote:
    I want to retain the internal RJ45 connector as it is part of the sat/TV/ Ethernet point where (should we no longer be able to use upstairs) we can install a big TV in our new living area.

    Then you will need a powered switch *of some sort*

    Depending on your exact layout, the simplest thing might be to go from
    the existing Ethernet to a powered switch and then take a lead from
    that outside to a socket or wireless AP.

    Any TVS that would have used tie existing port can hook up to the switch instead

    Wall mounting seems best. If you want to also create a wifi AP, ther are
    a few units that also do that.

    https://www.voipon.co.uk/grandstream-gwn7602-wifi-access-point-with-integrated-ethernet-switch-p-8820.html

    looks perfect for the job. Original Ethernet in one port, and three more ethernet ports plus wifi.


    --
    "An intellectual is a person knowledgeable in one field who speaks out
    only in others...”

    Tom Wolfe

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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Pancho on Mon May 13 15:38:32 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 15:11, Pancho wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 13:17, Theo wrote:
    In uk.d-i-y Pancho <Pancho.Jones@proton.me> wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 12:49, John Rumm wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double >>>>> back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:


    Presuming that works, why not just twist the cables together, strand by
    strand, with a shrink tube around each strand.

    Use the proper box for the sake of a couple of quid?

    Me???? Do a proper job :-).

    But thinking about it, you are right, the cables need to be twisted
    pair. An untwisted stretch > 2cm could be problematic.

    It most certainly isn't at 100Mbps.

    And I warrant at Gbps too. The power levels used in Ethernet are
    *massive* compared with what is typical at RF. .

    The twisted pair part of Ethernet is as much stopping it radiating
    interference as it is rejecting outside interference, and the
    termination impedance at both ends is enough to swamp reflections from
    'bad' connections'

    When you think about it, a soldered or twisted together line is a lot
    less shitty than a punch down pair of forks...in a rack...

    Ethernet is designed to be installed by 'unskilled' personnel



    --
    It’s easier to fool people than to convince them that they have been fooled. Mark Twain

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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 18:45:43 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    David wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a
    double back box?

    Room for something like this?
    <https://broadbandbuyer.com/products/48185>

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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 13 21:50:29 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 14:03, David wrote:

    I will check, but a double back box already accommodating two Coax cables
    and a Cat5E cable may not have enough spare space for a punch down
    connector.
    Fitting 'RJ45' plugs and using a coupler might eat less space ...

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  • From Sam Plusnet@21:1/5 to Theo on Tue May 14 01:02:31 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13-May-24 12:40, Theo wrote:
    In uk.d-i-y David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to >> difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there, >> then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface >> or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    If you don't mind 100Mbit, you could split the cat5e into two groups of two pairs. 100M will work over two pairs while gigabit needs four.

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    There are 'in wall APs' which also have a switch: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003134217005.html

    There's a weird picture on that webpage (5th from the left) which has a
    hand pointing at the Ethernet ports.
    Either they employed a Lilliputian, or that Access Port is massive.

    --
    Sam Plusnet

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to The Natural Philosopher on Tue May 14 06:24:50 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 5/13/2024 10:38 AM, The Natural Philosopher wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 15:11, Pancho wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 13:17, Theo wrote:
    In uk.d-i-y Pancho <Pancho.Jones@proton.me> wrote:
    On 13/05/2024 12:49, John Rumm wrote:

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double >>>>>> back box?


    A standard punch down CAT5 junction box should do the trick, like:


    Presuming that works, why not just twist the cables together, strand by >>>> strand, with a shrink tube around each strand.

    Use the proper box for the sake of a couple of quid?

    Me???? Do a proper job :-).

    But thinking about it, you are right, the cables need to be twisted pair. An untwisted stretch > 2cm could be problematic.

    It most certainly isn't at 100Mbps.

    And I warrant at Gbps too. The power levels used in Ethernet are *massive* compared with what is typical at RF. .

    The twisted pair part of Ethernet is as much stopping it radiating interference as it is rejecting outside interference, and the termination impedance at both ends is enough to swamp reflections from 'bad' connections'

    When you think about it, a soldered or twisted together  line is a lot less shitty than a punch down pair of forks...in a rack...

    Ethernet is designed to be installed by 'unskilled' personnel

    You can test this.

    One of the Marvell NIC chips, has an impedance tester (page 13):

    http://web.archive.org/web/20051101231749/http://marvell.com/products/transceivers/singleport/VCT_White_Paper.pdf

    (their own flavour of TDR). And it can tell you "shorted", "open",
    or "characteristic impedance". Since there are four pairs
    and the Marvell is GbE, there are four words on the screen,
    one word for each pair. When I first got the P5E Deluxe, the RJ45
    was dirty, and had one open contact, so I got to use the VCT test
    right away. And one of the pairs was rated "Open". Re-inserting
    the RJ45, five times, was sufficient to clean the contact.

    Eth.Cable
    P5E Deluxe -------------------- Router with power off ("no heartbeat")
    booted and running Now, you are testing cable, and router RJ45 contacts.
    onboard Marvell chip.

    Marvell still lists some parts that have VCT capability, but
    I don't know how easy it is to find a working specimen at retail.

    https://www.marvell.com/products/ethernet-phys.html

    The error rate on Ethernet, is finite. It's not zero.
    And our objective as hobbyists, is to not make it worse :-)
    I occasionally run SHA hashes on network transferred files,
    to keep an eye on the enhanced error rate. I've never
    seen a bit flipped in a transferred file... yet. But the
    opportunity for that, does exist.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Paul on Tue May 14 12:30:35 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    In uk.d-i-y Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    One of the Marvell NIC chips, has an impedance tester (page 13):

    http://web.archive.org/web/20051101231749/http://marvell.com/products/transceivers/singleport/VCT_White_Paper.pdf

    (their own flavour of TDR). And it can tell you "shorted", "open",
    or "characteristic impedance". Since there are four pairs
    and the Marvell is GbE, there are four words on the screen,
    one word for each pair. When I first got the P5E Deluxe, the RJ45
    was dirty, and had one open contact, so I got to use the VCT test
    right away. And one of the pairs was rated "Open". Re-inserting
    the RJ45, five times, was sufficient to clean the contact.

    That's interesting, I hadn't come across those. They look quite handy.

    Marvell still lists some parts that have VCT capability, but
    I don't know how easy it is to find a working specimen at retail.

    https://www.marvell.com/products/ethernet-phys.html

    For the record those are PHYs - they go after the MAC chip which is the one that talks USB/PCI/PCIe/... There might be a USB ethernet adapter which has such a Marvell PHY after its MAC, but it's a job to find one unless you look
    at teardown photos. Many cheaper devices have combined MAC and PHY in the
    same silicon so that makes them less likely. You could hunt around for
    PCI(e) cards with Marvell PHY chips on them I suppose.

    But it might be easier just to buy a proper TDR, ~$80: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004008485938.html

    The error rate on Ethernet, is finite. It's not zero.
    And our objective as hobbyists, is to not make it worse :-)
    I occasionally run SHA hashes on network transferred files,
    to keep an eye on the enhanced error rate. I've never
    seen a bit flipped in a transferred file... yet. But the
    opportunity for that, does exist.

    You're several levels of checksumming at that point, which covers a
    multitude of sins. But bodging it now stores up problems for the future -
    our entire office building had to be rewired because the contractors who installed cat5 when it was built only wired 2 pairs, which was all that was needed for 'super fast' 100Mbit at the time (the cable was fine, but all the terminations had to be redone).

    2.5/5/10G copper is becoming more common and better to do it right than do
    it twice.

    Theo

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From The Natural Philosopher@21:1/5 to Theo on Tue May 14 13:38:35 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 14/05/2024 12:30, Theo wrote:
    In uk.d-i-y Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    One of the Marvell NIC chips, has an impedance tester (page 13):

    http://web.archive.org/web/20051101231749/http://marvell.com/products/transceivers/singleport/VCT_White_Paper.pdf

    (their own flavour of TDR). And it can tell you "shorted", "open",
    or "characteristic impedance". Since there are four pairs
    and the Marvell is GbE, there are four words on the screen,
    one word for each pair. When I first got the P5E Deluxe, the RJ45
    was dirty, and had one open contact, so I got to use the VCT test
    right away. And one of the pairs was rated "Open". Re-inserting
    the RJ45, five times, was sufficient to clean the contact.

    That's interesting, I hadn't come across those. They look quite handy.

    Marvell still lists some parts that have VCT capability, but
    I don't know how easy it is to find a working specimen at retail.

    https://www.marvell.com/products/ethernet-phys.html

    For the record those are PHYs - they go after the MAC chip which is the one that talks USB/PCI/PCIe/... There might be a USB ethernet adapter which has such a Marvell PHY after its MAC, but it's a job to find one unless you look at teardown photos. Many cheaper devices have combined MAC and PHY in the same silicon so that makes them less likely. You could hunt around for PCI(e) cards with Marvell PHY chips on them I suppose.

    But it might be easier just to buy a proper TDR, ~$80: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004008485938.html

    The error rate on Ethernet, is finite. It's not zero.
    And our objective as hobbyists, is to not make it worse :-)
    I occasionally run SHA hashes on network transferred files,
    to keep an eye on the enhanced error rate. I've never
    seen a bit flipped in a transferred file... yet. But the
    opportunity for that, does exist.

    You're several levels of checksumming at that point, which covers a
    multitude of sins. But bodging it now stores up problems for the future - our entire office building had to be rewired because the contractors who installed cat5 when it was built only wired 2 pairs, which was all that was needed for 'super fast' 100Mbit at the time (the cable was fine, but all the terminations had to be redone).

    2.5/5/10G copper is becoming more common and better to do it right than do
    it twice.

    Theo
    All this theory and possibility is trumped by the fact that a soldered
    joint actually leaves the pairs a lot more twisted than an RJ45 plug and
    socket does.

    And a soldered joint inside a house is far less likely to corrode than a
    punch down...

    I repeat my mantra. Punch down is designed so that numpties can do
    wiring, and the Ethernet specification is robust enough for rather crap connections not to fail.

    And punchdown is rather crap compared with soldering.

    In many years of Ethernet I have NEVER come across a link that 'worked
    with high error rate'

    They work, or they don't IME.

    PS you won't see errors in file transfer using TCP/IP because that has
    its own error checking. The effect of corruption on IP links is to
    reduce throughput, as the retransmissions become more frequent.

    If your Ethernet is doing full speed IP transfers it has nothing wrong
    with it.

    --
    “Ideas are inherently conservative. They yield not to the attack of
    other ideas but to the massive onslaught of circumstance"

    - John K Galbraith

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  • From Vir Campestris@21:1/5 to David on Mon May 20 21:30:21 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 12:59, David wrote:
    The location would not be good for an AP as I want it around the back of
    the house up high under the plastic roof to give the best signal path down the garden, and good signal to people sitting out on the deck.

    How far is your deck?

    I get good coverage all over the garden from the router _inside_ my home
    office - a timber framed, plasterboard lined room. Out to at least 30m.

    OTOH we don't have many neighbours to interfere with the signal.

    Andy

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  • From David@21:1/5 to David on Tue May 21 07:54:45 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 13/05/2024 12:04, David wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out there, then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work surface
    or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    I could fit an extender (socket type) to the cable but I'm not really keen
    on this. Is there a connector with punch down connectors on both sides to extend a run of Ethernet?

    As usual, once I start typing out the details I think of more options.

    Cheers


    Dave R



    Are you aware that some WAPs can be configured as repeaters. No need for
    any additional UTP cabling

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David@21:1/5 to David on Wed May 22 18:13:05 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Tue, 21 May 2024 07:54:45 +0100, David wrote:

    On 13/05/2024 12:04, David wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due
    to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out
    there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    I could fit an extender (socket type) to the cable but I'm not really
    keen on this. Is there a connector with punch down connectors on both
    sides to extend a run of Ethernet?

    As usual, once I start typing out the details I think of more options.

    Cheers


    Dave R



    Are you aware that some WAPs can be configured as repeaters. No need for
    any additional UTP cabling

    Yes, thanks.

    The issue is getting enough signal to the WAP.

    We sit right outside the bifold doors which is where the WAP would have to
    go.

    Problem may have been solved by a new WiFi6 WAP in the living area, which
    is far more effective than the old route which was being used as a WAP.

    Cheers



    Dave R


    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David@21:1/5 to Vir Campestris on Wed May 22 18:15:29 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Mon, 20 May 2024 21:30:21 +0100, Vir Campestris wrote:

    On 13/05/2024 12:59, David wrote:
    The location would not be good for an AP as I want it around the back
    of the house up high under the plastic roof to give the best signal
    path down the garden, and good signal to people sitting out on the
    deck.

    How far is your deck?

    I get good coverage all over the garden from the router _inside_ my home office - a timber framed, plasterboard lined room. Out to at least 30m.

    OTOH we don't have many neighbours to interfere with the signal.

    Andy

    Deck is directly outside the bifold doors of the rear living/dining/
    cooking area.

    The problem seems to be the bifold doors blocking the WIFi signal.

    However have just installed a new WiFi6 WAP w2here the old WAP was, and
    the signal is much stronger.

    So I may not need the wiring after all.

    Cheers



    Dave R


    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 10 x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David@21:1/5 to David on Thu May 23 06:11:02 2024
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 22/05/2024 19:13, David wrote:
    On Tue, 21 May 2024 07:54:45 +0100, David wrote:

    On 13/05/2024 12:04, David wrote:
    I need to extend my Ethernet network outside to allow use of an AP to
    provide signal to the garden area.

    Running a new cable from the switch under the stairs is a real pain due
    to difficult access between the floors around the stairs.

    One option is an existing internal socket in the outside wall.

    I don't think that there is enough spare cable to disconnect and run it
    through the wall to the outside to a new socket, mount a router out
    there,
    then take a cable back in to the wall socket.

    I can connect a router inside, but want to avoid a box on the work
    surface or adjoining wall.

    Is there is a straightforward way to extend Cat5E from within a double
    back box?

    A very small router and power supply seems far too big.

    I could fit an extender (socket type) to the cable but I'm not really
    keen on this. Is there a connector with punch down connectors on both
    sides to extend a run of Ethernet?

    As usual, once I start typing out the details I think of more options.

    Cheers


    Dave R



    Are you aware that some WAPs can be configured as repeaters. No need for
    any additional UTP cabling

    Yes, thanks.

    The issue is getting enough signal to the WAP.

    We sit right outside the bifold doors which is where the WAP would have to go.

    Problem may have been solved by a new WiFi6 WAP in the living area, which
    is far more effective than the old route which was being used as a WAP.

    Cheers



    Dave R



    If you still have problems, you could try using a directional (gain)
    antenna, a booster amplifier or a combination of both, such as

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285737697246

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/174337934800

    https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/404903265043

    If you need to buy cables with SMA connectors, be aware that they come
    in two flavours, SMA and SMA-RP (Reverse Polarity). Wifi antenna
    connectors are usually SMA-RP.

    At 2.4GHz the cables are lossy, and it is very easy to loose more signal
    in the cable that you are likely to gain with a gain antenna or a signal amplifier.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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