• Removing a start drive screw from a disc in a caddy

    From Dave R@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 17 19:00:10 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    [Oh, and this is a new install of a 2016 version of Pan because reasons.]

    --
    On the Acer All-In-One

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  • From Fredxx@21:1/5 to Dave R on Fri Mar 17 19:51:32 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    You don't mean Philips or Pozidrive?

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    The usual way is a Dremel with a thin cutting disc to create a
    screwdriver slot. A small (thin) diamond wheel would be the best way.

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  • From alan_m@21:1/5 to Dave R on Fri Mar 17 20:41:47 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    It depends on how rounded off.

    File the tip off a cross head screwdriver bit so it sits further out on
    the shoulders of the cross on the head of the screw.

    Place the screwdriver in the rounded of head and give the end of the screwdriver a gentle tap with a hammer. This can often slightly free up
    a tight screw before using any other method of removal.

    Use the correct size screwdriver but place a flat piece of rubber band
    between the screwdriver and the rounded off head of the screw. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xoEEevkXhSU

    --
    mailto : news {at} admac {dot} myzen {dot} co {dot} uk

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  • From Joe@21:1/5 to Fredxx on Fri Mar 17 20:24:19 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:51:32 +0000
    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.uk> wrote:

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    You don't mean Philips or Pozidrive?

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a
    circuit board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get
    the disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    The usual way is a Dremel with a thin cutting disc to create a
    screwdriver slot. A small (thin) diamond wheel would be the best way.

    I've used a tool like this which worked very well. Unfortunately it was Japanese and at the time, not available here. It needs to be of good
    quality to work well, and of course there's no way to judge that on the
    Net..

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/CLTYQ-Screw-Extractor-Damaged-Remover/dp/B089GX2MWD

    --
    Joe

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  • From Joe@21:1/5 to junk@admac.myzen.co.uk on Fri Mar 17 21:45:44 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 20:41:47 +0000
    alan_m <junk@admac.myzen.co.uk> wrote:

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    It depends on how rounded off.

    File the tip off a cross head screwdriver bit so it sits further out
    on the shoulders of the cross on the head of the screw.

    Place the screwdriver in the rounded of head and give the end of the screwdriver a gentle tap with a hammer. This can often slightly free
    up a tight screw before using any other method of removal.

    Also try to tighten the screw for a moment before turning the other way.


    Use the correct size screwdriver but place a flat piece of rubber
    band between the screwdriver and the rounded off head of the screw. https://www.youtube.com/shorts/xoEEevkXhSU


    --
    Joe

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  • From Davey@21:1/5 to Joe on Fri Mar 17 22:51:57 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 20:24:19 +0000
    Joe <joe@jretrading.com> wrote:

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:51:32 +0000
    Fredxx <fredxx@spam.uk> wrote:

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start
    head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded
    off.

    You don't mean Philips or Pozidrive?

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a
    circuit board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto
    get the disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    The usual way is a Dremel with a thin cutting disc to create a
    screwdriver slot. A small (thin) diamond wheel would be the best
    way.
    I've used a tool like this which worked very well. Unfortunately it
    was Japanese and at the time, not available here. It needs to be of
    good quality to work well, and of course there's no way to judge that
    on the Net..

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/CLTYQ-Screw-Extractor-Damaged-Remover/dp/B089GX2MWD


    I got a set of those from 7dayshop some time ago. The one I tried
    worked well.
    --
    Davey.

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Dave R on Fri Mar 17 19:55:28 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 3/17/2023 3:00 PM, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    [Oh, and this is a new install of a 2016 version of Pan because reasons.]


    Screw extractor ? It has a drill bit on one end, and a reverse tap
    on the other end (tightens counter clockwise).

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORIA-Extractor-Damaged-Hardness-Stripped/dp/B07RZ6K8SK

    The vibration will not be good for the disk drive, particularly.

    You can try the reverse tap, without using the drill bit end first,
    but it might not be able to get a purchase on the metal.

    The instructions say to not go too quickly, when using the tap.
    So it has a chance to thread itself in.

    Paul

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  • From Thomas Prufer@21:1/5 to Dave R on Sat Mar 18 09:46:44 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT, Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Any ideas welcome.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BEKO-2616020-Schraubendoktor-20-Tube/dp/B007KIF73A


    Increases friction between screwdriver and screw. That's all it does, and it does that very well. Belongs in every bag of tricks! (Also used in aviation under the name "Viscogrip"... yeah, expensive.)




    Thomas Prufer

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  • From Theo@21:1/5 to Dave R on Sat Mar 18 10:03:41 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    In uk.comp.homebuilt Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    For getting a stripped screw out of an iPhone, somebody recently recommended superglue and baking soda. You make a paste and then glue a screwdriver bit into it, leave it to set and then screwdriver it out. The mixture can then
    be softened using acetone.

    I've not tried this myself.

    Theo

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  • From Jeff Layman@21:1/5 to Dave R on Sat Mar 18 10:29:28 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Is the thread end of the screw in metal or plastic? If plastic, it might
    help to put the caddy into a plastic bag and then put that in the
    freezer to get the screw to contract slightly. It might then be easier
    to turn. If it's in metal there's no point in trying a freezer as there
    will be little if any difference in contraction between the metals.

    --

    Jeff

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  • From wasbit@21:1/5 to Dave R on Sat Mar 18 10:28:38 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.


    If this is a pan head screw as opposed to countersunk, & you have
    access, a pair of water pump/gland nut pliers can often get enough grip
    to get the screw moving.

    --
    Regards
    wasbit

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  • From Andy Burns@21:1/5 to wasbit on Sat Mar 18 10:47:11 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    wasbit wrote:

    If this is a pan head screw as opposed to countersunk, & you have
    access, a pair of water pump/gland nut pliers can often get enough grip
    to get the screw moving.

    The last time I had given up getting a mangled screw out, and had
    decided sod-it, lets just drill it out, the drilling immediately spun
    the screw out, can't remember whether I'd left the drill in reverse

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  • From Joe@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 18 12:14:53 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:55:28 -0400
    Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    On 3/17/2023 3:00 PM, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a
    circuit board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get
    the disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    [Oh, and this is a new install of a 2016 version of Pan because
    reasons.]

    Screw extractor ? It has a drill bit on one end, and a reverse tap
    on the other end (tightens counter clockwise).

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORIA-Extractor-Damaged-Hardness-Stripped/dp/B07RZ6K8SK

    The vibration will not be good for the disk drive, particularly.

    With this size of screw and drill, it doesn't take long to drill it by
    hand. Obviously it helps if it is a brass screw rather then the
    increasingly common stainless steel type.

    You can try the reverse tap, without using the drill bit end first,
    but it might not be able to get a purchase on the metal.

    The instructions say to not go too quickly, when using the tap.
    So it has a chance to thread itself in.

    Paul






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  • From Rob Morley@21:1/5 to Dave R on Sat Mar 18 13:52:36 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT
    Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    Sometimes you can reshape a stripped screw head by peining it with a
    small hammer or flat punch sufficient to get a driver to grip.
    Otherwise cut a slot in the screw with a small abrasive wheel - if the screwdriver breaks the head, remove the side that didn't break using a
    punch or further application of the abrasive wheel.
    Or you might prefer to remove the head with a drill - use a bit the
    same size as the screw (3 mm?) - use high speed and feed it gently or
    it is likely to snag, might break. Sometimes a left handed drill will
    snag and remove the screw - I have a set but rarely use them.
    With the head removed you can extract the remains of the screw with
    vice grips or good pliers; failing that the drive will be fine with
    only three screws in it.

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  • From David@21:1/5 to Thomas Prufer on Sat Mar 18 13:50:51 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 09:46:44 +0100, Thomas Prufer wrote:

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT, Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Any ideas welcome.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BEKO-2616020-Schraubendoktor-20-Tube/dp/
    B007KIF73A


    Increases friction between screwdriver and screw. That's all it does,
    and it does that very well. Belongs in every bag of tricks! (Also used
    in aviation under the name "Viscogrip"... yeah, expensive.)

    Thanks.

    At £25 it would be cheaper to replace the caddy. :-(

    Cheers


    Dave R

    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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  • From David@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 18 13:54:22 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:55:28 -0400, Paul wrote:

    On 3/17/2023 3:00 PM, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    [Oh, and this is a new install of a 2016 version of Pan because
    reasons.]


    Screw extractor ? It has a drill bit on one end, and a reverse tap on
    the other end (tightens counter clockwise).

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/ORIA-Extractor-Damaged-Hardness-Stripped/dp/
    B07RZ6K8SK

    The vibration will not be good for the disk drive, particularly.

    You can try the reverse tap, without using the drill bit end first,
    but it might not be able to get a purchase on the metal.

    The instructions say to not go too quickly, when using the tap.
    So it has a chance to thread itself in.

    Paul

    Thanks.

    Now to measure the size of the screw head.

    Being a small computer screw this could mean that the extractor is too
    large.

    Do I need a very small left hand thread drill bit?

    Cheers



    Dave R



    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to wasbit on Sat Mar 18 14:51:25 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 3/18/2023 6:28 AM, wasbit wrote:
    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws >> which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.


    If this is a pan head screw as opposed to countersunk, & you have access, a pair of water pump/gland nut pliers can often get enough grip to get the screw moving.


    Unfortunately, the caddy has a recess for the screw, so you
    can't get a grip on the outer diameter of the screw.

    I do like the idea posted, of gluing a screwdriver tip to the
    screw. Now, that sounds like fun.

    If you don't want to risk your screwdriver, a four inch common nail
    can be substituted. Using a file, you can shape the end of a
    common nail, to the task at hand. I have made hex drivers this way.
    (To make tools, you heat the work afterwards, and quench in
    water, to harden the thing up a bit.) You would not need to harden
    your make-shift tool, for this project.

    Paul

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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Jeff Layman on Sat Mar 18 14:58:32 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 3/18/2023 6:29 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws >> which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Is the thread end of the screw in metal or plastic? If plastic, it might help to put the caddy into a plastic bag and then put that in the freezer to get the screw to contract slightly. It might then be easier to turn. If it's in metal there's no point
    in trying a freezer as there will be little if any difference in contraction between the metals.


    It could be similar to this, so the screw goes through the
    side of the caddy, and right into the aluminium of the hard
    drive chassis. The side of the material recesses the screw head
    a bit, preventing easy access to it. Only a frontal attack to
    the screw head will work.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caddy-Compatible-Apollo-StoreEasy-Servers/dp/B07DGTNMBK

    There are limits on what you can do to the item in question,
    like say, beating it with a hammer or using your oxy-acetylene on it :-)

    The OP wants to save the hard drive. And the caddy.

    Paul

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  • From David@21:1/5 to Fredxx on Sat Mar 18 15:23:48 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:51:32 +0000, Fredxx wrote:

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    You don't mean Philips or Pozidrive?

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    The usual way is a Dremel with a thin cutting disc to create a
    screwdriver slot. A small (thin) diamond wheel would be the best way.

    I think they are Torx.
    Yep - just looked at the bits and they are Torx - thought there might be
    more splines but it is just very fine.

    Size 5 {units} which is the smallest in my Draper toolbox of fancy
    screwdriver bits.

    Callipers say 1.6 mm external so quite a small screw.

    Cheers



    Dave R


    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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  • From David@21:1/5 to Paul on Sat Mar 18 15:25:51 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 14:58:32 -0400, Paul wrote:

    On 3/18/2023 6:29 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get
    the disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Is the thread end of the screw in metal or plastic? If plastic, it
    might help to put the caddy into a plastic bag and then put that in the
    freezer to get the screw to contract slightly. It might then be easier
    to turn. If it's in metal there's no point in trying a freezer as there
    will be little if any difference in contraction between the metals.


    It could be similar to this, so the screw goes through the side of the
    caddy, and right into the aluminium of the hard drive chassis. The side
    of the material recesses the screw head a bit, preventing easy access to
    it. Only a frontal attack to the screw head will work.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caddy-Compatible-Apollo-StoreEasy-Servers/
    dp/B07DGTNMBK

    There are limits on what you can do to the item in question,
    like say, beating it with a hammer or using your oxy-acetylene on it :-)

    The OP wants to save the hard drive. And the caddy.

    Paul

    Yes, that is very similar.

    PC is a Proliant Server Gen 8.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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  • From David@21:1/5 to Rob Morley on Sat Mar 18 15:28:35 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 13:52:36 +0000, Rob Morley wrote:

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    Sometimes you can reshape a stripped screw head by peining it with a
    small hammer or flat punch sufficient to get a driver to grip.
    <snip>

    Hammers and hard drives are at best uneasy companions.


    Cheers


    Dave R


    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

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  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk on Sun Mar 19 04:07:01 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 21:03:41 +1100, Theo
    <theom+news@chiark.greenend.org.uk> wrote:

    In uk.comp.homebuilt Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws
    which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    For getting a stripped screw out of an iPhone,

    Those are MUCH smaller screws.

    somebody recently recommended
    superglue and baking soda. You make a paste and then glue a screwdriver
    bit
    into it, leave it to set and then screwdriver it out. The mixture can
    then
    be softened using acetone.

    I've not tried this myself.

    Theo

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  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to Rob Morley on Sun Mar 19 04:17:08 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 00:52:36 +1100, Rob Morley <nospam@ntlworld.com> wrote:

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT
    Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    Sometimes you can reshape a stripped screw head by peining it with a
    small hammer or flat punch sufficient to get a driver to grip.

    Not going to be good for a hard drive.

    Otherwise cut a slot in the screw with a small abrasive wheel - if the screwdriver breaks the head, remove the side that didn't break using a
    punch

    Not going to be good for a hard drive.

    or further application of the abrasive wheel.

    Or you might prefer to remove the head with a drill - use a bit the
    same size as the screw (3 mm?) - use high speed and feed it gently or
    it is likely to snag, might break. Sometimes a left handed drill will
    snag and remove the screw - I have a set but rarely use them.

    With the head removed you can extract the remains of the screw with
    vice grips or good pliers; failing that the drive will be fine with
    only three screws in it.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to All on Sun Mar 19 04:27:51 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 05:58:32 +1100, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    Your system time is way out.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 18 19:03:07 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 04:07:01 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
    Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

    <FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

    --
    pamela about Rodent Speed:
    "His off the cuff expertise demonstrates how little he knows..."
    MID: <XnsA90B720A381A2D4AM2@81.171.92.183>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 18 19:03:41 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 04:27:51 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
    Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

    <FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

    --
    Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
    "Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
    MID: <g4t0jtFrknaU1@mid.individual.net>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 18 19:04:17 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 04:17:08 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
    Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

    <FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

    --
    The Natural Philosopher about senile Rodent:
    "Rod speed is not a Brexiteer. He is an Australian troll and arsehole." Message-ID: <pu07vj$s5$2@dont-email.me>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to David on Sat Mar 18 14:58:56 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 3/18/2023 11:25 AM, David wrote:
    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 14:58:32 -0400, Paul wrote:

    On 3/18/2023 6:29 AM, Jeff Layman wrote:
    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the
    caddy or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get
    the disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Is the thread end of the screw in metal or plastic? If plastic, it
    might help to put the caddy into a plastic bag and then put that in the
    freezer to get the screw to contract slightly. It might then be easier
    to turn. If it's in metal there's no point in trying a freezer as there
    will be little if any difference in contraction between the metals.


    It could be similar to this, so the screw goes through the side of the
    caddy, and right into the aluminium of the hard drive chassis. The side
    of the material recesses the screw head a bit, preventing easy access to
    it. Only a frontal attack to the screw head will work.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/Caddy-Compatible-Apollo-StoreEasy-Servers/
    dp/B07DGTNMBK

    There are limits on what you can do to the item in question,
    like say, beating it with a hammer or using your oxy-acetylene on it :-)

    The OP wants to save the hard drive. And the caddy.

    Yes, that is very similar.

    PC is a Proliant Server Gen 8.

    Cheers

    It's possible someone has substituted a screw,
    and it was the wrong thread. I seem to remember
    there was some screw in the PC hardware box-of-screws
    where you could do that. A cross threaded screw,
    where someone abused it to the point of failure,
    that's more of a challenge than a casually
    overtightened proper screw.

    The only other option I could think of, is to remove
    three of four screws, so that only the duff screw remains
    and see if wiggling the drive with respect to the
    side, loosens the screw at all. But if someone has
    stripped the head on it in an effort to drive in it,
    it will likely take a similar level of villainy to get
    it out again.

    Take the caddy to a store which sells items
    like screw extractors, and maybe you can get
    a measure for an exact single item to use. I
    have a machine shop here, that retails items
    like taps or dies, and if I need a tap, they
    have some nice stuff. A second store just sells
    tools, and they have taps as well. They would
    likely have a screw extractor (perhaps as a single
    item and not an expensive kit -- but the single
    item won't be Chinese-cheap either).

    If a screw extractor becomes small enough,
    the shaft will probably respond elastically
    while you're using it (twist and spring back,
    as a function of the metal quality). And that's
    a signal to you, that more force than that, isn't going
    to be available. Perhaps tapping it with the screw extractor,
    then gluing something which is thicker to the fresh
    threads, will give enough strength to get it out.

    But the way the thing is built, I doubt you could
    slide a hack saw blade into there and saw the screw head off.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Rod Speed on Sat Mar 18 14:43:39 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 3/18/2023 1:27 PM, Rod Speed wrote:
    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 05:58:32 +1100, Paul <nospam@needed.invalid> wrote:

    Your system time is way out.

    I just cloned over, and have been switching OSes a bit
    while working. I'm all the time having to fix the time.

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Thomas Prufer@21:1/5 to David on Sat Mar 18 20:59:19 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 18 Mar 2023 13:50:51 GMT, David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 09:46:44 +0100, Thomas Prufer wrote:

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT, Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Any ideas welcome.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BEKO-2616020-Schraubendoktor-20-Tube/dp/ >B007KIF73A


    Increases friction between screwdriver and screw. That's all it does,
    and it does that very well. Belongs in every bag of tricks! (Also used
    in aviation under the name "Viscogrip"... yeah, expensive.)

    Thanks.

    At £25 it would be cheaper to replace the caddy. :-(

    Yes -- I recalled an acquaintance who had worked at an auto plat telling me of this magic stuff, and that they shared it around for those rare cases where it was needed. Found it, and was surprised at the price!

    I hoped someone might weigh in with a DIY solution: abrasive powder mixed with grease? or some sticky mastic? ATA, Vim, "Barkeeper's Friend"? There's bits by Wiha with a diamond grit coating which do grip better than others, at least until the coating wears off -- but not in small Torx sizes, ends at T15 or something...

    (You could also try heating the screw with a soldering iron, for a moment...)


    Thomas Prufer

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to prufer.public@mnet-online.de.invali on Sun Mar 19 08:15:00 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 06:59:19 +1100, Thomas Prufer <prufer.public@mnet-online.de.invalid> wrote:

    On 18 Mar 2023 13:50:51 GMT, David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    On Sat, 18 Mar 2023 09:46:44 +0100, Thomas Prufer wrote:

    On 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 GMT, Dave R <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Any ideas welcome.

    https://www.amazon.co.uk/BEKO-2616020-Schraubendoktor-20-Tube/dp/
    B007KIF73A


    Increases friction between screwdriver and screw. That's all it does,
    and it does that very well. Belongs in every bag of tricks! (Also used
    in aviation under the name "Viscogrip"... yeah, expensive.)

    Thanks.

    At £25 it would be cheaper to replace the caddy. :-(

    Yes -- I recalled an acquaintance who had worked at an auto plat telling
    me of
    this magic stuff, and that they shared it around for those rare cases
    where it
    was needed. Found it, and was surprised at the price!

    I hoped someone might weigh in with a DIY solution: abrasive powder
    mixed with
    grease?

    You can buy that for that purpose.

    or some sticky mastic? ATA, Vim, "Barkeeper's Friend"? There's bits by
    Wiha with a diamond grit coating which do grip better than others, at
    least
    until the coating wears off -- but not in small Torx sizes, ends at T15
    or
    something...

    (You could also try heating the screw with a soldering iron, for a
    moment...)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 18 22:42:48 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 08:15:00 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
    Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

    <FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

    --
    Norman Wells addressing trolling senile Rodent:
    "Ah, the voice of scum speaks."
    MID: <g4t0jtFrknaU1@mid.individual.net>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rob Morley@21:1/5 to David on Sun Mar 19 02:25:35 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 18 Mar 2023 15:28:35 GMT
    David <wibble@btinternet.com> wrote:

    Hammers and hard drives are at best uneasy companions.

    As long as the heads are parked and you don't go crazy there shouldn't
    be too much risk of damage.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From GB@21:1/5 to Dave R on Sun Mar 19 15:17:25 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 17/03/2023 19:00, Dave R wrote:
    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    [Oh, and this is a new install of a 2016 version of Pan because reasons.]



    A piece cut out of a wide rubber band will increase the friction between
    the screwdriver and the screw. It works the same way as the visco stuff elsewhere in this thread, but £25 cheaper. :)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Thomas Prufer@21:1/5 to NOTsomeone@microsoft.invalid on Mon Mar 20 10:21:23 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Sun, 19 Mar 2023 15:17:25 +0000, GB <NOTsomeone@microsoft.invalid> wrote:

    A piece cut out of a wide rubber band will increase the friction between
    the screwdriver and the screw. It works the same way as the visco stuff >elsewhere in this thread, but £25 cheaper. :)


    Excellent... I'll try that.

    I haven't found a use either pressing enough (or billable) to justify spending that kinda money on a one-trick pony, however useful.

    Also, should I think of it, a pinch of carborundum powder, maybe in a binder (oil/grease seem counterproductive -- maybe water?)


    Thomas Prufer

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Dave R@21:1/5 to Dave R on Mon Mar 20 13:54:12 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Fri, 17 Mar 2023 19:00:10 +0000, Dave R wrote:

    Some time ago I bought a used Proliant to act as a file server.

    When it arrived it still had one disc in.

    I discovered why on further investigation - one of the 4 start head
    screws which held the disc into the caddy had been rounded off.

    My problem now is how to remove this without destroying either the caddy
    or the disc.

    I can't get at the internal end of the screw without taking a circuit
    board off the disc.

    I do have a spare caddy (if I can find it) but I would like mto get the
    disc out if possible.

    Any ideas welcome.

    Well, there's a thing.

    Just had a minor brain wave.
    Took out 3 screws as suggested so that I could move the plastic case
    around to make sure that was not binding.
    Then I worked my way through the comprehensive set of unusual/security
    screw bits in my Draper set to see if another type of bit would fit well
    enough into the hole to grip.
    Somewhat to my surprise a hex head fitted well enough to give a bit of
    grip and the screw is now out!

    This attempt was prompted by the suggestions, including rubber bands, to provide a little bit of extra friction.
    So those ideas are as yet untested.

    Now to put it back with 3 screws and then find another screw to fit from
    my collection of small screws.

    Then (eventually) to build a file server.

    As an aside I have been talking about upgrading my graphics card on my
    daily driver to enable reliable 4k display support.

    The current card may well do nicely in a PCIe slot in the server.

    Cheers



    Dave R





    --
    On the Acer All-In-One

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Paul@21:1/5 to Dave R on Wed Mar 22 05:56:06 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On 3/20/2023 9:54 AM, Dave R wrote:

    Well, there's a thing.

    Just had a minor brain wave.
    Took out 3 screws as suggested so that I could move the plastic case
    around to make sure that was not binding.
    Then I worked my way through the comprehensive set of unusual/security
    screw bits in my Draper set to see if another type of bit would fit well enough into the hole to grip.
    Somewhat to my surprise a hex head fitted well enough to give a bit of
    grip and the screw is now out!

    This attempt was prompted by the suggestions, including rubber bands, to provide a little bit of extra friction.
    So those ideas are as yet untested.

    Now to put it back with 3 screws and then find another screw to fit from
    my collection of small screws.

    Then (eventually) to build a file server.

    As an aside I have been talking about upgrading my graphics card on my
    daily driver to enable reliable 4k display support.

    The current card may well do nicely in a PCIe slot in the server.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    What condition was the screw in ?

    Had it been abused by someone ? Threads ruined ?

    Paul

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David@21:1/5 to Paul on Wed Mar 22 10:26:16 2023
    XPost: uk.d-i-y

    On Wed, 22 Mar 2023 05:56:06 -0400, Paul wrote:

    On 3/20/2023 9:54 AM, Dave R wrote:

    Well, there's a thing.

    Just had a minor brain wave.
    Took out 3 screws as suggested so that I could move the plastic case
    around to make sure that was not binding.
    Then I worked my way through the comprehensive set of unusual/security
    screw bits in my Draper set to see if another type of bit would fit
    well enough into the hole to grip.
    Somewhat to my surprise a hex head fitted well enough to give a bit of
    grip and the screw is now out!

    This attempt was prompted by the suggestions, including rubber bands,
    to provide a little bit of extra friction.
    So those ideas are as yet untested.

    Now to put it back with 3 screws and then find another screw to fit
    from my collection of small screws.

    Then (eventually) to build a file server.

    As an aside I have been talking about upgrading my graphics card on my
    daily driver to enable reliable 4k display support.

    The current card may well do nicely in a PCIe slot in the server.

    Cheers



    Dave R

    What condition was the screw in ?

    Had it been abused by someone ? Threads ruined ?

    Paul

    The head was stripped, but as soon as I managed to get a screwdriver bit
    to get a little purchase it came out very easily.
    No sign of over tightening as the plastic caddy would rotate.
    A bit of a puzzle, really.

    Almost as if the screw was damaged before it was screwed in.
    This assumes that there was enough purchase by a screwdriver to spin it in against no resistance but to cam out as soon as the screw tightened up a
    bit.

    The replacement screw with a smaller head diameter went in easily so the
    thread seems OK.

    Cheers




    Dave R


    --
    AMD FX-6300 in GA-990X-Gaming SLI-CF running Windows 7 Pro x64

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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