OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018The hydrogen dissolves into the molten steel and causes embrittlement.
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other >properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've
just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some
tubes for the TIG wire .
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj8u0p$soi$1@dont-email.me...
OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've
just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some
tubes for the TIG wire .
Snag
=====================================
The procedure to dry it is pretty much spread it on top of the wood stove. https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-au/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx
On 9/8/2020 6:11 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj8u0p$soi$1@dont-email.me...
OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other
properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've
just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some
tubes for the TIG wire .
Snag
=====================================
The procedure to dry it is pretty much spread it on top of the wood stove. >> https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-au/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx
I knew I could count on you for a solution ... I'm a lousy stick
weldor , my beads look like gobs of pigeon crap . But shit sticks
together , so I'll keep on keepin' on . I'm not doing anything
man-rated , and I'm careful to stay out of the likely impact zone if something fails . It appears that the recent modifications (which
included stick welding with 7018 - vertical up) to my firewood
handling system has made me at least twice as productive as compared
to me actually lifting bigass chunks of log .
--
Snag
Illegitimi non
carborundum
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj8u0p$soi$1@dont-email.me...
OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've
just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some
tubes for the TIG wire .
Snag
=====================================
The procedure to dry it is pretty much spread it on top of the wood stove. https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-au/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx
I plan to seal the inner fenders and seams with Flex Tape which sticks
like a barnacle. Has anyone else tried it?
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj957u$kug$1@dont-email.me...
On 9/8/2020 6:11 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj8u0p$soi$1@dont-email.me...
OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other
properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've
just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some
tubes for the TIG wire .
Snag
=====================================
The procedure to dry it is pretty much spread it on top of the wood
stove.
https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-au/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx
I knew I could count on you for a solution ... I'm a lousy stick
weldor , my beads look like gobs of pigeon crap . But shit sticks
together , so I'll keep on keepin' on . I'm not doing anything man-rated
, and I'm careful to stay out of the likely impact zone if something
fails . It appears that the recent modifications (which included stick welding with 7018 - vertical up) to my firewood handling system has made
me at least twice as productive as compared to me actually lifting
bigass chunks of log .
Snag
====================
I needed a lot of expert advice and practice at Voc-Tech night classes
before my 7018 beads looked good and more importantly withstood being
bent double.
My present welding problem is a dime-sized rust hole in the Honda's rear fender lip, where the inner wheel well leaves no clearance for hammer
and dolly adjustment. In 2010 I welded a flush patch, held in place with magnets, in the same area and made something of a mess because the thin
steel melted through very easily. I chipped off the Bondo because the
paint over it had cracked and found a still sound unrusted weld. In 2017
I welded the other side with a patch overlapped on the inside, which
solved the melt-through issue but left a depression. Then I realized
that the cause of the rust was an open seam between the inner and outer fenders, which I covered by gluing on stainless heat treating foil. This
time I fitted a flush patch over a larger backing plate. So far one body
shop quoted $100 to just weld it in.
I plan to seal the inner fenders and seams with Flex Tape which sticks
like a barnacle. Has anyone else tried it?
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj8u0p$soi$1@dont-email.me...stove.
OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some tubes for the TIG wire .
Snag
=====================================
The procedure to dry it is pretty much spread it on top of the wood
...
My present welding problem is a dime-sized rust hole in the Honda's rear fender lip, ...
...
My present welding problem is a dime-sized rust hole in the Honda's rear fender lip, ... This time I fitted a flush patch over a larger backing plate. So far one body shop quoted $100 to just weld it in.
On 9/8/2020 4:11 PM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"Snag" wrote in message news:rj8u0p$soi$1@dont-email.me...
OK , so I know that if not properly stored and kept dry this 7018
I've got is no longer "low hydrogen" . What I'm wondering is what other properties are altered and how it affects the weldment properties . I've just ordered another 5 lbs , and I'll be more careful about how I store
it . Probably use a piece of PVC pipe with a cap on one end and a
threaded plug in the other . And while I'm at it I think I'll make some tubes for the TIG wire .
Snag
=====================================
The procedure to dry it is pretty much spread it on top of the woodstove.
https://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-au/support/welding-how-to/Pages/storing-electrodes-detail.aspx
Jim is all over it. Rod can be dried a couple times, but if redries to
many times the flux falls off or angels loose their wings or pixies
sprout warts warts so big it looks like the wart has grown a pixie...
The big boy have fancy rod drying ovens and heated rod storage and
magical leprechauns that touch their rods with drying wands, but I just
toss a few sticks at a time in the same toaster oven I use for powder
coating small parts. I always have look up suggestions for temp and time.
"Snag" wrote in message news:rjmfgg$3pv$1@dont-email.me...
My new 5 lb package of 7018AC arrived yesterday , it's going to stay
in the factory wrapper until the last dozen or so I had on hand are gone
. Might be a few more weeks before I can lay that old stock on the wood
stove . We're getting overnight lows in the 60's now but daytime highs
are still in the mid 80's . I also have some 6011 and 6013 on hand , I
can use that for whatever I need to weld that's too thick for the little
MIG or outside where the TIG doesn't do so well .
Snag
======================================================
The IR temperature of the top of my wood stove runs 500F ~ 650F but
things placed on it don't get quite that hot.
Pure lead melts at 621.5F.
The temperature readout in the kitchen tells me when to add wood or
reduce the air intake, and if I don't pay attention to it the stove's temperature fluctuates considerably depending on firewood split size and water content, air intake opening and outdoor temperature, which affects draft suction.
My wood stove is a copy of the old Jotul 118, clean-burning and
efficient after I refitted and gasketed the joints, but fussy. I ran extension wire up for four thermocouples though only two are necessary,
one for the body of the stove and the other for a probe in food
simmering on it. The others were to datalog chimney and outdoor
temperature while I was learning how to make the stove burn smoke-free,
which with US hardwood is NOT the "cigarette burn" Jotul suggests. Temperatures weren't enough, there's also a night vision camera showing
the chimney top.
It's a demanding beast only its mother (or a tinkerer) could love.
However it anneals and hardens steel and heats through NH winters on
usually less than 2 cords per year, while other similar houses use 5.
"Snag" wrote in message news:rjooee$v1k$1@dont-email.me...
Interesting stove ..., I like ours , it's a King Circulater ,
===================================
Can you remove the louvered top and place the rods directly on the firebox?
Mine directs any smoke from the rear of the fire to the front where it
mixes with separate preheated 'secondary' air and burns as it travels to
the rear again under the top lid, so the front part of that lid is the hottest external part of the stove, and the only one that can reach 600F.
...
Can you remove the louvered top and place the rods directly on the
firebox?
Mine directs any smoke from the rear of the fire to the front where it
mixes with separate preheated 'secondary' air and burns as it travels to
the rear again under the top lid, so the front part of that lid is the hottest external part of the stove, and the only one that can reach 600F.
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