• My First TIG Weld - 304 Stainless

    From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to All on Wed Aug 5 09:25:06 2020
    I picked up an AHP201 AC/DC pulse rig a while back. Its mostly sat on
    the cart, and other than a few plays at making some beads and trying to understand the 40 billion possible settings I have not welded anything
    with it. For most things the Miller 212 does the job on the table, and
    the Lincoln ProCore does the job (if its small) outside.

    Well, a couple days ago I had a customer who wanted pull pins for a mold
    I made with a T-handle. Normally I either just put an L bend on small
    pull pins or on bigger ones I use the lathe to make a pull ring on the
    end, by using the lathe and a mandrel to (manually) spin the mandrel.
    In the past with much larger pull pins I've threaded the pull pin and
    tapped the T handle. It works pretty well and looks good.

    I pretty much always make these pull pins out of stainless. In fact in
    some sizes I just use stainless TIG wire. In some rare instances I'll
    use teflon because it doesn't transfer heat, and allows castings to fill better, but 99.9% of the time I just use stainless.

    These pins were 3/16 inch. Not a great size to thread and I know I don't
    have a 3/16 tap. I had the TIG wire on hand, and a fair amount of 304 stainless rod from 1/8 inch to 1-1/2 inch. I actually have owned
    stainless TIG wire a lot longer than I have owned a TIG welder. I've
    also picked up some other TIG wire for planned future projects as I
    develop my skills. ER70S(x), 308, 5356, 4043, etc.

    Anyway, 3/16" pull pins with a 1/2" handle with a 3/16 hole drilled
    through. I got it all setup on the table, tried some settings, grabbed
    a piece of 1/16 rod (trying to start small) and give it a go. It was
    terrible, and when I tried to clean it up on the belt sander most of the
    filler just fell off. Half of the weld looked ok though. This should
    have been my first clue.

    When I walked back over to the welding table I realized I had grabbed a
    piece of 5356 aluminum. Not stainless. Oops. So... I grabbed some 308
    and gave it another go. It welded better, but it seemed like I needed
    more current. The weld are is small. I wasn't crazy about using larger filler. My son suggest I just push the pull pin through a little
    further and use it as its own filler. I cranked the machine up to 150
    amps and tried it. By the 4th pull pin I got a good weld. Oh, it still
    looks terrible, but it looks like it did the job. I went back over the
    first three, cleaned them up on the belt sander, and they look like one
    piece of metal.

    Am I proud of those welds? No. Absolutely not, but I have the start of
    a feel for how to do it, and I'll get better.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Bob La Londe on Wed Aug 5 19:44:27 2020
    On 8/5/2020 11:25 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    I picked up an AHP201 AC/DC pulse rig a while back.  Its mostly sat on
    the cart, and other than a few plays at making some beads and trying to understand the 40 billion possible settings I have not welded anything
    with it.  For most things the Miller 212 does the job on the table, and
    the Lincoln ProCore does the job (if its small) outside.

    Well, a couple days ago I had a customer who wanted pull pins for a mold
    I made with a T-handle.  Normally I either just put an L bend on small
    pull pins or on bigger ones I use the lathe to make a pull ring on the
    end, by using the lathe and a mandrel to (manually) spin the mandrel. In
    the past with much larger pull pins I've threaded the pull pin and
    tapped the T handle.  It works pretty well and looks good.

    I pretty much always make these pull pins out of stainless.  In fact in
    some sizes I just use stainless TIG wire.  In some rare instances I'll
    use teflon because it doesn't transfer heat, and allows castings to fill better, but 99.9% of the time I just use stainless.

    These pins were 3/16 inch. Not a great size to thread and I know I don't
    have a 3/16 tap.  I had the TIG wire on hand, and a fair amount of 304 stainless rod from 1/8 inch to 1-1/2 inch.  I actually have owned
    stainless TIG wire a lot longer than I have owned a TIG welder.  I've
    also picked up some other TIG wire for planned future projects as I
    develop my skills.  ER70S(x), 308, 5356, 4043, etc.

    Anyway, 3/16" pull pins with a 1/2" handle with a 3/16 hole drilled through.  I got it all setup on the table, tried some settings, grabbed
    a piece of 1/16 rod (trying to start small) and give it a go.  It was terrible, and when I tried to clean it up on the belt sander most of the filler just fell off.  Half of the weld looked ok though.  This should
    have been my first clue.

    When I walked back over to the welding table I realized I had grabbed a
    piece of 5356 aluminum.  Not stainless.  Oops.  So... I grabbed some 308 and gave it another go.  It welded better, but it seemed like I needed
    more current.  The weld are is small.  I wasn't crazy about using larger filler.  My son suggest I just push the pull pin through a little
    further and use it as its own filler.  I cranked the machine up to 150
    amps and tried it.  By the 4th pull pin I got a good weld.  Oh, it still looks terrible, but it looks like it did the job.  I went back over the first three, cleaned them up on the belt sander, and they look like one
    piece of metal.

    Am I proud of those welds?  No.  Absolutely not, but I have the start of
    a feel for how to do it, and I'll get better.

    The longest journey begins with a single step ... I once did the
    opposite of what you did , tried to weld some aluminum with a piece of
    1/16" 308L filler . That didn't work either .
    --
    Snag
    Illegitimi non
    carborundum

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Thu Aug 6 13:31:11 2020
    "Bob La Londe" wrote in message news:rgemh2$apg$1@gioia.aioe.org...
    ...
    These pins were 3/16 inch. Not a great size to thread and I know I don't
    have a 3/16 tap.
    ...

    ------------------

    You probably do have a 3/16" tap, labeled #10-24 or #10-32.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Snag on Thu Aug 6 10:15:32 2020
    On 8/5/2020 5:44 PM, Snag wrote:
    On 8/5/2020 11:25 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
    I picked up an AHP201 AC/DC pulse rig a while back. Its mostly sat
    on the cart, and other than a few plays at making some beads and trying
    to understand the 40 billion possible settings I have not welded
    anything with it. For most things the Miller 212 does the job on the
    table, and the Lincoln ProCore does the job (if its small) outside.

    Well, a couple days ago I had a customer who wanted pull pins for a
    mold I made with a T-handle. Normally I either just put an L bend on
    small pull pins or on bigger ones I use the lathe to make a pull ring on
    the end, by using the lathe and a mandrel to (manually) spin the
    mandrel. In the past with much larger pull pins I've threaded the pull
    pin and tapped the T handle. It works pretty well and looks good.

    I pretty much always make these pull pins out of stainless. In fact
    in some sizes I just use stainless TIG wire. In some rare instances
    I'll use teflon because it doesn't transfer heat, and allows castings to
    fill better, but 99.9% of the time I just use stainless.

    These pins were 3/16 inch. Not a great size to thread and I know I
    don't have a 3/16 tap. I had the TIG wire on hand, and a fair amount of
    304 stainless rod from 1/8 inch to 1-1/2 inch. I actually have owned
    stainless TIG wire a lot longer than I have owned a TIG welder. I've
    also picked up some other TIG wire for planned future projects as I
    develop my skills. ER70S(x), 308, 5356, 4043, etc.

    Anyway, 3/16" pull pins with a 1/2" handle with a 3/16 hole drilled through. I got it all setup on the table, tried some settings, grabbed
    a piece of 1/16 rod (trying to start small) and give it a go. It was
    terrible, and when I tried to clean it up on the belt sander most of the
    filler just fell off. Half of the weld looked ok though. This should
    have been my first clue.

    When I walked back over to the welding table I realized I had
    grabbed a piece of 5356 aluminum. Not stainless. Oops. So... I
    grabbed some 308 and gave it another go. It welded better, but it
    seemed like I needed more current. The weld are is small. I wasn't
    crazy about using larger filler. My son suggest I just push the pull
    pin through a little further and use it as its own filler. I cranked
    the machine up to 150 amps and tried it. By the 4th pull pin I got a
    good weld. Oh, it still looks terrible, but it looks like it did the
    job. I went back over the first three, cleaned them up on the belt
    sander, and they look like one piece of metal.

    Am I proud of those welds? No. Absolutely not, but I have the
    start of a feel for how to do it, and I'll get better.

    The longest journey begins with a single step ... I once did the
    opposite of what you did , tried to weld some aluminum with a piece of
    1/16" 308L filler . That didn't work either .


    A several years ago one of my friends told me a story about how he and
    one of his high school buddies struggled to weld up a trailer jack using aluminum wire. They burned and burned and burned and finally it
    stuck... somehow. Just a month ago his high school buddy who manages
    the local Praxair store told me the exact same story.

    I think I figured out how they did it. LOL.

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  • From Bob La Londe@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Fri Aug 7 08:00:58 2020
    On 8/6/2020 10:31 AM, Jim Wilkins wrote:
    "Bob La Londe"  wrote in message news:rgemh2$apg$1@gioia.aioe.org... ... These pins were 3/16 inch. Not a great size to thread and I know I don't
    have a 3/16 tap. ...

    ------------------

    You probably do have a 3/16" tap, labeled #10-24 or #10-32.


    Maybe, but I do have a couple 3/16 repair dies labeled as 3/16. I don't
    recall the pitch off hand.

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