• 7018 fillet vertical down

    From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 28 11:33:49 2021
    7018 SMAW 3.2mm dia (1/8th-inch dia.)
    Had to do it.
    Overwelded anyway.
    Started with a bit of v-up just to be sure.
    But light frame angle-iron to a heavy steel column. Undercut on light
    section difficult to avoid.
    Time-served guy showed me.
    I didn't want slag running-ahead. Seemed wrong to allow that.
    Had nicely formed "finernail" of weld pool showing. All looked good.
    So, nice medium burn of rod (Amps), slight downward slope, ran
    downwards slow enough to puddle, but fast enough to leave all slag
    behind.
    It did look so right.

    Comments about doing this? Good tips?

    Rich S

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 28 09:15:14 2021
    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lypmw6th0y.fsf@void.com...

    7018 SMAW 3.2mm dia (1/8th-inch dia.)
    Had to do it.
    Overwelded anyway.
    Started with a bit of v-up just to be sure.
    But light frame angle-iron to a heavy steel column. Undercut on light
    section difficult to avoid.
    Time-served guy showed me.
    I didn't want slag running-ahead. Seemed wrong to allow that.
    Had nicely formed "finernail" of weld pool showing. All looked good.
    So, nice medium burn of rod (Amps), slight downward slope, ran
    downwards slow enough to puddle, but fast enough to leave all slag
    behind.
    It did look so right.

    Comments about doing this? Good tips?

    Rich S

    -------------------------

    Thanks, I have a lot of trouble joining different thicknesses. Does "slight downward slope" mean the rod or could you reposition the column?

    I have enough hoisting gear to usually reposition the small-scale welding I
    do. My trailer and the rusted fenders of my truck bed were much easier to
    patch upside-down.

    The 16' long overhead gantry track has been a very useful addition to my
    kit. So far I've used it only with center support although it was tested without it. I attach wheels on one end and a trailer coupler on the other to tow the beam to the work site, and added pipe clamp bases to boat trailer winches to raise it to the tops of the supporting tripods.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Mon Jun 28 18:07:09 2021
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lypmw6th0y.fsf@void.com...

    7018 SMAW 3.2mm dia (1/8th-inch dia.)
    Had to do it.
    Overwelded anyway.
    Started with a bit of v-up just to be sure.
    But light frame angle-iron to a heavy steel column. Undercut on light
    section difficult to avoid.
    Time-served guy showed me.
    I didn't want slag running-ahead. Seemed wrong to allow that.
    Had nicely formed "finernail" of weld pool showing. All looked good.
    So, nice medium burn of rod (Amps), slight downward slope, ran
    downwards slow enough to puddle, but fast enough to leave all slag
    behind.
    It did look so right.

    Comments about doing this? Good tips?

    Rich S

    -------------------------

    Thanks, I have a lot of trouble joining different thicknesses. Does
    "slight downward slope" mean the rod or could you reposition the
    column?

    I have enough hoisting gear to usually reposition the small-scale
    welding I do. My trailer and the rusted fenders of my truck bed were
    much easier to patch upside-down.

    The 16' long overhead gantry track has been a very useful addition to
    my kit. So far I've used it only with center support although it was
    tested without it. I attach wheels on one end and a trailer coupler on
    the other to tow the beam to the work site, and added pipe clamp bases
    to boat trailer winches to raise it to the tops of the supporting
    tripods.

    "Slight downward slope" is the welding rod.
    Your hand / the end of the electrode is higher than the tip of the
    electrode.
    Downward slope to tip is something like 10deg.
    Keeping narrowly / accurately it at whatever is found best is
    important. You mustn't move the rod by rotating your wrist - you must
    move your entire hand to keep that slope.

    I have seen so many "not welds" when done vertical-down with GMAW.
    Conversely, even as the agency temp, the foreperson has said "Rich - I
    want you to go do that weld vertical up" (knowing I will set the
    machine, do it vertical-up, etc.)

    So the idea of doing a vertical-down weld with SMAW 7018 didn't come
    easily.
    The weld is non-critical - stresses would be very very low -
    especially as very over-welded.
    But my impression was - there was nothing wrong with the weld -
    fluidity looked good.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 28 18:49:00 2021
    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyeecluddu.fsf@void.com...

    "Slight downward slope" is the welding rod.
    Your hand / the end of the electrode is higher than the tip of the
    electrode.
    Downward slope to tip is something like 10deg.
    Keeping narrowly / accurately it at whatever is found best is
    important. You mustn't move the rod by rotating your wrist - you must
    move your entire hand to keep that slope.

    I have seen so many "not welds" when done vertical-down with GMAW.
    Conversely, even as the agency temp, the foreperson has said "Rich - I
    want you to go do that weld vertical up" (knowing I will set the
    machine, do it vertical-up, etc.)

    So the idea of doing a vertical-down weld with SMAW 7018 didn't come
    easily.
    The weld is non-critical - stresses would be very very low -
    especially as very over-welded.
    But my impression was - there was nothing wrong with the weld -
    fluidity looked good.

    ---------------------------------
    I practiced welding up and down with industrial machines in night school,
    and the disappointing results convinced me to buy a lift like this as a
    welding positioner so I could weld everything horizontally: https://handtrucks2go.com/Foot-Operated-Hydraulic-Platform-Stacker-Curved-Top.html

    I paid $10 at the auction and $40 to have the hydraulics rebuilt so it would work again, though a lever chain hoist can substitute, doesn't droop, and is reachable from all sides for fine adjustments. The upright frame is very convenient to clamp to. It's also useful to load heavy stuff on or off the truck, support long stock on the horizontal bandsaw and fix outdoor power equipment at a comfortable height, the carb at eye level for instance. When idle it's an extra shelf.

    I can reach a fair level of welding proficiency with practice but I don't
    need to weld often enough to maintain it. My main problem-solving machines
    are the lathe and vertical mill.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Tue Jun 29 07:02:27 2021
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    ...

    I practiced welding up and down with industrial machines in night
    school, and the disappointing results convinced me to buy a lift like
    this as a welding positioner so I could weld everything horizontally: https://handtrucks2go.com/Foot-Operated-Hydraulic-Platform-Stacker-Curved-Top.html

    I paid $10 at the auction and $40 to have the hydraulics rebuilt so it
    would work again, though a lever chain hoist can substitute, doesn't
    droop, and is reachable from all sides for fine adjustments. The
    upright frame is very convenient to clamp to. It's also useful to load
    heavy stuff on or off the truck, support long stock on the horizontal
    bandsaw and fix outdoor power equipment at a comfortable height, the
    carb at eye level for instance. When idle it's an extra shelf.

    I can reach a fair level of welding proficiency with practice but I
    don't need to weld often enough to maintain it. My main
    problem-solving machines are the lathe and vertical mill.

    It's so much easier and quicker to weld in the flat or the
    horizontal-vertical (for fillets) - the 2F/PB.

    There are welding positioners with axis rotations and a rotating
    turntable to huge sizes for always presenting welds in a favourable orientation.

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jun 29 08:11:29 2021
    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyv95xp5sc.fsf@void.com...
    ...
    There are welding positioners with axis rotations and a rotating
    turntable to huge sizes for always presenting welds in a favourable orientation.

    -------------------

    I was looking for an inexpensive and compact lift suited to a larger
    hobbyist sized welding project, a plane, car or trailer frame for example,
    and with multiple other uses to justify its cost and space. I think an unpowered "stacker" fork lift would also do. The advantages over a hydraulic scissors lift table are greater height and the clear space underneath, to
    hang a trailer frame vertically, the disadvantage is the upright frame that makes lifting a riding mower difficult. It does hold my snow blower well.

    Although I paid to have the broken hydraulics rebuilt I later found that a
    1/2 ton lever chain hoist was a good substitute for it, one that doesn't
    leak down like a worn cylinder and can be adjusted from the front or side to nudge a right angle joint clamped to the upright and platform into exact position.

    I used mine to cut and weld the 2-story-high steel columns for a friend's
    house restoration project. After buying the old house he found it had been built to third-world standards by foreign labor, which is not just a Florida problem. The steel supplier had engineered the structure and cut the top
    beam to length but the columns needed individual custom fitting, and bolting plates welded on the ends.

    He told me a woman had delivered the steel and helped him muscle the 600 Lb beam off the truck. I only had to hoist it into position with my 2 ton chain fall. They erected temporary stud walls on either side to support the
    weight.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Wed Jun 30 08:44:27 2021
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyv95xp5sc.fsf@void.com...
    ...
    There are welding positioners with axis rotations and a rotating
    turntable to huge sizes for always presenting welds in a favourable orientation.

    -------------------

    I was looking for an inexpensive and compact lift suited to a larger hobbyist sized welding project, a plane, car or trailer frame for
    example, and with multiple other uses to justify its cost and space. I
    think an unpowered "stacker" fork lift would also do. The advantages
    over a hydraulic scissors lift table are greater height and the clear
    space underneath, to hang a trailer frame vertically, the disadvantage
    is the upright frame that makes lifting a riding mower difficult. It
    does hold my snow blower well.

    Although I paid to have the broken hydraulics rebuilt I later found
    that a 1/2 ton lever chain hoist was a good substitute for it, one
    that doesn't leak down like a worn cylinder and can be adjusted from
    the front or side to nudge a right angle joint clamped to the upright
    and platform into exact position.

    I used mine to cut and weld the 2-story-high steel columns for a
    friend's house restoration project. After buying the old house he
    found it had been built to third-world standards by foreign labor,
    which is not just a Florida problem. The steel supplier had engineered
    the structure and cut the top beam to length but the columns needed individual custom fitting, and bolting plates welded on the ends.

    He told me a woman had delivered the steel and helped him muscle the
    600 Lb beam off the truck. I only had to hoist it into position with
    my 2 ton chain fall. They erected temporary stud walls on either side
    to support the weight.

    Jim - your experience of arriving at "forest clearing" practical
    solutions is way beyond what I cna even comprehend. Sounds to have
    been a good project. Rich S

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jul 1 06:46:27 2021
    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyczs3x0dg.fsf@void.com...

    Jim - your experience of arriving at "forest clearing" practical
    solutions is way beyond what I cna even comprehend. Sounds to have
    been a good project. Rich S

    ------------------------

    I was fortunate to join teams of clever engineers as the tech who built what they imagined. New England has been a hotbed of innovation for 200 years.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Thu Jul 1 12:01:41 2021
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyczs3x0dg.fsf@void.com...

    Jim - your experience of arriving at "forest clearing" practical
    solutions is way beyond what I cna even comprehend. Sounds to have
    been a good project. Rich S

    ------------------------

    I was fortunate to join teams of clever engineers as the tech who
    built what they imagined. New England has been a hotbed of innovation
    for 200 years.

    {thumbs-up}

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Thu Jul 1 12:33:21 2021
    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyo8bmi9gq.fsf@void.com...

    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyczs3x0dg.fsf@void.com...

    Jim - your experience of arriving at "forest clearing" practical
    solutions is way beyond what I cna even comprehend. Sounds to have
    been a good project. Rich S

    ------------------------

    I was fortunate to join teams of clever engineers as the tech who
    built what they imagined. New England has been a hotbed of innovation
    for 200 years.

    {thumbs-up}

    ----------------------------

    Thanks. Your own accomplishments are very impressive: http://weldsmith.co.uk/career/in_pics/career_outline_in_imgs.html

    I recently looked up rope splicing. The suggestion was 4 tucks for manila, 5 for nylon and 7 for mooring lines. I used 7 for my nylon log handling
    slings. Using rope loops hung from pulleys allows rotating the log to
    inspect and debark it, and position it on the sawmill for best yield.

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Fri Jul 2 07:09:16 2021
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    ...
    I recently looked up rope splicing. The suggestion was 4 tucks for
    manila, 5 for nylon and 7 for mooring lines. I used 7 for my nylon log handling slings. Using rope loops hung from pulleys allows rotating
    the log to inspect and debark it, and position it on the sawmill for
    best yield.

    Splicing is great.
    Splices are very strong and tough.
    However, they take longer to make so tend to be used in something
    which is permanent or has long-term use. Like a strop (you join the
    rope back to itself, to produce a ring of rope).

    I use a lot of tucks because polymer rope is slippery.
    On a 12mm rope, I tend to make a short splice at least 200mm long
    (1/2" rope - splice 8" long). Tend to do slightly longer still, then
    if you use it to carry something over your shoulder, have the bigger
    diameter short-splice region on your shoulder so {force over a bigger
    area} is less pressure and more comfortable :-)
    Can carry a lot onto a construction site that way, balanced
    left-and-right with things on strops both sides :-)

    You can easily make a
    fid
    with tinsnips from an offcut of sheet metal.
    Easily produce a neat splice and doesn't introduce any bad habits or
    anything like that.

    Heat-seal the end of each of the 3 strands so as splicing, the strands
    stay tight together as spun.

    Your one about can rotate on pulleys - means wear on the rope is not concentrating on one place. = good.

    On construction sites, for most applications one would advocate
    3-strand cut-film polypropylene rope ("disposable rope") because

    * compensate for lower, but still very high, strength with larger
    diameter makes rope easily to handle / hold

    * the rope is so cheap that you can freely replace it as it
    accumulates wear-and-tear

    The latter is the big advantage in every way.
    You don't have to plead to anyone else to be able to replace 3-strand
    cut-film pp. rope...

    Rich S

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  • From Richard Smith@21:1/5 to Jim Wilkins on Fri Jul 2 06:45:21 2021
    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyo8bmi9gq.fsf@void.com...

    "Jim Wilkins" <muratlanne@gmail.com> writes:

    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lyczs3x0dg.fsf@void.com...

    Jim - your experience of arriving at "forest clearing" practical
    solutions is way beyond what I cna even comprehend. Sounds to have
    been a good project. Rich S

    ------------------------

    I was fortunate to join teams of clever engineers as the tech who
    built what they imagined. New England has been a hotbed of innovation
    for 200 years.

    {thumbs-up}

    ----------------------------

    Thanks. Your own accomplishments are very impressive: http://weldsmith.co.uk/career/in_pics/career_outline_in_imgs.html

    ...

    I wish that didn't make the current in-employment demography run
    scared from me, here in Britain.
    "Post-industrial" seems to have come with a reliance on a money-spring
    which bubbles out of the ground and spreads across the economy at
    constant invariant rate. Creating new value-system in which I am left
    looking like some "Don Quixote" figure.

    An impression - fair or not?
    So many "entrepreneurs" driving around "the Queen's highway" in their
    German limosines are solely funded by from-the-State money, in a world
    which is competitive but only between each other.

    I just had a good 7-day assignment as a welder on the running repairs
    of a ship berthed at a nearby port.

    Rich S

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  • From Jim Wilkins@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jul 2 10:52:16 2021
    "Richard Smith" wrote in message news:lybl7lgsc3.fsf_-_@void.com...

    You can easily make a fid
    with tinsnips from an offcut of sheet metal.
    Easily produce a neat splice and doesn't introduce any bad habits or
    anything like that.

    -----------------------

    A fid was maybe my earliest metal project as a kid. It came out well enough that I still use it.

    The second was sheet metal and nail bearings for a windmill to tumble stones and scare the birds from the garden.

    The next was a pair of ratchet wheels for a model catapult, cut from
    aluminum on a table saw. The ratchet claw and other metalwork were filed
    from brass. Otherwise I made everything from a large pile of remodeling
    scrap wood, including shafts, pulleys and lantern-wheel gears.

    The Latin teacher was quite impressed with my model catapult (onager) and similar cord-powered crossbow, until she found out how powerful and accurate they were. The 'lost' secret appears to be cotton for the torsion winding. I had to use only the smallest firecrackers without taped-on gravel as a
    handicap in battles across the street because they could be placed and timed for an air burst so closely.

    At school I made and sold silent, low-profile pocket catapults we used to instigate food fights between distant tables in the cafeteria, without
    raising our arms suspiciously. Coming down the stairs, at ceiling height you could faintly make out bits of dried whipped cream protruding below the
    white textured ceiling in a large circle around our table, heavier jello and peas flew lower. Otherwise we left no trace and our table with the class officers was above reproach.

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