On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 12:18:50 -0400) it happened rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osaj9b$cs3$1@dont-email.me>:
I have yet to find much that would be appropriate for a small vessel like a >> kayak. It has to be two parts unless you want the bright white light
shining in your eyes. One of the great things about kayaking at night is
getting light adapted and seeing things under starlight.
Here is something interesting for enclosing the battery.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/112506110668
Yes, those bags are often recommended, maybe I should get some too, or not??? I keep the liion cells that I do not use in a plastic icecream box..:
http://panteltje.com/pub/liion_cells_storage_IMG_6338.JPG
the tape it to prevent cells moving and makeing a ciruit.
It is way larger than what I need, but can be folded over I think. Folding >> it twice it is small enough. They don't say what it is made of. One way to >> find out. Thanks for discussing this. I don't think I would have found
this bag if I weren't talking to you. The bag will be much better than the >> other two approaches I found. But then there is the question of how good
the bag will be. It's cheap enough I might just do the test you suggested.
There was a video on youtube about it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZEkewCjiDs0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CnNId0mDnBo
YMMV
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bag >is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling.
These bags are not made of thick material. Much better would be this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/171761074567
or this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192107744089
A meter of the hose is about $22 from Aliexpress. I used an eBay link >because you can't shorten Ali links the same way. The hose is silicone >coated fiberglass which is rated for some minutes at 1100 °F/600 °C which is >the alleged temperature of a Li-ion battery fire.
The blanket is only $8. It is ceramic fiber rated for higher temperatures >indefinitely. It would be enough material for at least three units. I plan >to make at least two. I believe I can make a pouch easily using thin gauge >wire.
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bag >> is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending >> on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling.
You have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
These bags are not made of thick material. Much better would be this...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/171761074567
or this...
I wonder if that stuff absorbs moisture...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192107744089
Same.
A meter of the hose is about $22 from Aliexpress. I used an eBay link
because you can't shorten Ali links the same way. The hose is silicone
coated fiberglass which is rated for some minutes at 1100 °F/600 °C which is >> the alleged temperature of a Li-ion battery fire.
The blanket is only $8. It is ceramic fiber rated for higher temperatures >> indefinitely. It would be enough material for at least three units. I plan >> to make at least two. I believe I can make a pouch easily using thin gauge >> wire.
I still think you are over-designing a bit.
I like the flat plastic case for the lights you posted, IF it is really waterproof I would
not bother with too much 'fire protection' especially with those batteries with protection chip.
If it does catch fire, then overboard with it... ;-)
Other thing I was thinking is to make 2 'antennas' of carbon fiber rod or some flexible rod at the rear of the kayak with in the top red and green LEDs,
battery holder at the bottom, needs some screws on an attachment point.
0 0 --> LED
\ /
\ /
\ / carbon rod
\ /
[ ] [ ]
================= kayak
Could also be one thing with 2 antennas
Danger is it sticks in you eyes.
Experiment.
Let us know !
These bags are not made of thick material. Much better would be this... >>>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/171761074567
or this...
I wonder if that stuff absorbs moisture...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192107744089
Same.
Not sure why you think it will wick moisture and why that is an issue. The >cell is sealed so some moisture won't hurt it. If it catches fire moisture >will only help dampen the temperature.
Maybe. Many people take their cell phone out on a kayak as a rescue device.
It would suck if it caught fire and cause the boat to sink.
Yeah, I already bought one case designed for cell phones and they seem to >have a very poor seal material, hard and not terribly compliant. Being
water tight is essential. I've had a number of things ruined while kayaking >when they were supposed to be water tight, including handheld IP67 GPS devices.
not bother with too much 'fire protection' especially with those batteries with protection chip.
If it does catch fire, then overboard with it... ;-)
You keep not paying attention.
There will be two of these at opposite ends
of a 17 foot kayak and the paddler in the middle. There's no way to release >it.
Other thing I was thinking is to make 2 'antennas' of carbon fiber rod or some flexible rod at the rear of the kayak with in
the top red and green LEDs,
battery holder at the bottom, needs some screws on an attachment point.
0 0 --> LED
\ /
\ /
\ / carbon rod
\ /
[ ] [ ]
================= kayak
Could also be one thing with 2 antennas
Danger is it sticks in you eyes.
Experiment.
Let us know !
No need to experiment. Things sticking up on a kayak are not good. I'm not >sure why you would think there is any advantage to this anyhow.
Everything on a kayak wants to be low on the deck, unless you are flying a >flag. The red and green lights go on the front to make sure they are seen
at all times. They shine from dead ahead to 22.5 degrees past a >perpendicular line off each side. The person needs to not be in the way or >the light can be missed. They are mounted (along with the white light that >shines over the remaining 135 degrees) on the top of the mast of a sail boat >because it *has* a mast. On a kayak, a second unit is needed at the rear
for the white light. When "at anchor" an all around white light is
required. If you were to put the lights on a mast of some sort, they would >all be mounted in one unit, not separate units. But a tall thing is a very >poor idea for may reasons. Try kayaking sometime, you will learn quickly.
My idea is to use two identical units with something to tell each one which >is which (I'm thinking of a magnet operated switch perhaps or an internal >switch that you open the cover to set when you mount it on the boat). The >only difference is how the units respond to the remote. There are four >states - Off, Nav (red/green/white), anchor (all white) and emergency >(flashes SOS in Morse code with all lights white). The flashing lowers the >duty cycle and extends the duration of the battery. With 3000 mAHr it would >run for some 10 hours continuously, or twice or triple that when flashing. >But that is just an estimate. It helps in recovering the boat and/or the body.
--
Rick C
Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998
On a sunny day (Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400) it happened rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <oscdoi$iu3$1@dont-email.me>:
These bags are not made of thick material. Much better would be this... >>>>
https://www.ebay.com/itm/171761074567
or this...
I wonder if that stuff absorbs moisture...
https://www.ebay.com/itm/192107744089
Same.
Not sure why you think it will wick moisture and why that is an issue. The >> cell is sealed so some moisture won't hurt it. If it catches fire moisture >> will only help dampen the temperature.
So, you contradict yourself,
you had fear of water (for the cells ;-) ),
now you say they are dry.
Maybe. Many people take their cell phone out on a kayak as a rescue device. >> It would suck if it caught fire and cause the boat to sink.
The solution is well known, called a PLB, EPIRB, the latest seems to be this:
http://oceansignal.com/products/plb1/
But I do not think you will be kayaking on the ocean or big water?
https://www.panbo.com/archives/2016/12/mcmurdo_smartfind_g8_ais_epirb_first_of_many_plbs_too_.html
lots of info there too.
Yeah, I already bought one case designed for cell phones and they seem to
have a very poor seal material, hard and not terribly compliant. Being
water tight is essential. I've had a number of things ruined while kayaking >> when they were supposed to be water tight, including handheld IP67 GPS devices.
not bother with too much 'fire protection' especially with those batteries with protection chip.
If it does catch fire, then overboard with it... ;-)
You keep not paying attention.
Wow
There will be two of these at opposite ends
of a 17 foot kayak and the paddler in the middle. There's no way to release >> it.
Easy to make a release system with some dyneema line.
Other thing I was thinking is to make 2 'antennas' of carbon fiber rod or some flexible rod at the rear of the kayak with in
the top red and green LEDs,
battery holder at the bottom, needs some screws on an attachment point.
0 0 --> LED
\ /
\ /
\ / carbon rod
\ /
[ ] [ ]
================= kayak
Could also be one thing with 2 antennas
Danger is it sticks in you eyes.
Experiment.
Let us know !
No need to experiment. Things sticking up on a kayak are not good. I'm not >> sure why you would think there is any advantage to this anyhow.
Can view it from further away seems a good one to me.
Everything on a kayak wants to be low on the deck, unless you are flying a >> flag. The red and green lights go on the front to make sure they are seen >> at all times. They shine from dead ahead to 22.5 degrees past a
perpendicular line off each side. The person needs to not be in the way or >> the light can be missed. They are mounted (along with the white light that >> shines over the remaining 135 degrees) on the top of the mast of a sail boat >> because it *has* a mast. On a kayak, a second unit is needed at the rear
for the white light. When "at anchor" an all around white light is
required. If you were to put the lights on a mast of some sort, they would >> all be mounted in one unit, not separate units. But a tall thing is a very >> poor idea for may reasons. Try kayaking sometime, you will learn quickly.
Actually I did, has been 50 years ago or so though.
But not at night.
My idea is to use two identical units with something to tell each one which >> is which (I'm thinking of a magnet operated switch perhaps or an internal
switch that you open the cover to set when you mount it on the boat). The >> only difference is how the units respond to the remote. There are four
states - Off, Nav (red/green/white), anchor (all white) and emergency
(flashes SOS in Morse code with all lights white). The flashing lowers the >> duty cycle and extends the duration of the battery. With 3000 mAHr it would >> run for some 10 hours continuously, or twice or triple that when flashing. >> But that is just an estimate. It helps in recovering the boat and/or the body.
Well just build it, I really do not see the problem, few hours design work. If you have the remote, add an eject button:-)
(it would need a separate battery, but wait, why not eject automatically (spring latch)
when an IR optocoupler detects smoke or a sensor over-heating in the thing? Now THERE is a design challenge.
You can add a phone home, fire crackers, sound alarm, and a speaker giving voice instructions to the crew(you) how to duck for cover.
You also need coffee maker, pizza oven, fridge, probably need a bigger battery than just 3 Ah.
How's that for paying attention?
Can you keep up?
:-)
Viewed the eclipse at Wintercrest Farms,
on the centerline of totality since 1998
Here a few days ago the sun was red from the bush fires in the south of Europe, wind from that direction, you could smell it too.
When the 100 % eclipse was here around 2000 IIRC even the flowers closed.. very strange.
The solution is well known, called a PLB, EPIRB, the latest seems to be this:
http://oceansignal.com/products/plb1/
Why do you feel the need to educate me on things I already know about?
On a sunny day (Fri, 20 Oct 2017 12:47:16 -0400) it happened rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osd9ak$g1o$1@dont-email.me>:
The solution is well known, called a PLB, EPIRB, the latest seems to be this:
http://oceansignal.com/products/plb1/
Why do you feel the need to educate me on things I already know about?
Sigh,
note what it says about the battery.
You DO notice it has none of those protections you are on about?
There simply is no space for that.
It is simply a waterproof case, and the battery is OK.
Study other designs before taking of on a tangent.
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman
<gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bag
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending >>> on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling.
You have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can >> be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other
video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty >instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the >pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much >energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with >NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power
tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance.
But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a >good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman
<gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bag
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling.
You have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other
video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty >>> instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the >>> pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much >>> energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with >>> NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power
tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance. >>> But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a >>> good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in
power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools
these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even
though they scare you.
The context was compared to NiMH.
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman
<gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bag
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending >>>> on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling.
You have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can >>> be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other
video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty >> instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the >> pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much >> energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with >> NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power
tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance.
But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a
good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in
power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools
these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even
though they scare you.
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:54:41 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman >>>>> <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bagYou have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling. >>>>>
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other >>>> video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty
instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the >>>> pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much >>>> energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with >>>> NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power >>>> tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance. >>>> But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a >>>> good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in
power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools
these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even
though they scare you.
The context was compared to NiMH.
Gotcha. Is anyone still making NiCD or NiMH tools? I haven't seen
any in a long time.
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 11:03 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:54:41 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman >>>>>> <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bagYou have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling. >>>>>>
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other >>>>> video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty
instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the
pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much
energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with
NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power >>>>> tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance. >>>>> But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a >>>>> good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in >>>> power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools
these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even
though they scare you.
The context was compared to NiMH.
Gotcha. Is anyone still making NiCD or NiMH tools? I haven't seen
any in a long time.
Don't know. It's been too long since I dug into hand tools much. I
remember having an RC boat which ran ok on alkaline cells. Then I got >rechargeables for it and it TOOK OFF like a rocket. Seems the lower >resistance of the NiCd made a big difference. But it only ran for five >minutes, lol.
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 23:23:20 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 11:03 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:54:41 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman >>>>>>> <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bagYou have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling. >>>>>>>
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other >>>>>> video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty
instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the
pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much
energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with
NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power >>>>>> tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance.
But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a
good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in >>>>> power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools >>>>> these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even
though they scare you.
The context was compared to NiMH.
Gotcha. Is anyone still making NiCD or NiMH tools? I haven't seen
any in a long time.
Don't know. It's been too long since I dug into hand tools much. I
remember having an RC boat which ran ok on alkaline cells. Then I got
rechargeables for it and it TOOK OFF like a rocket. Seems the lower
resistance of the NiCd made a big difference. But it only ran for five
minutes, lol.
Most stuff designed for Alkalines ran like crap with NiCds, due to the
lower voltage. Some stuff didn't run at all (UVLO). NiCds also have
a horrible self discharge and short life, particularly multi-cell
packs if not kept charged. A real bad combination for tools. LiIon
fixes all that.
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/21/2017 10:48 AM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 23:23:20 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 11:03 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:54:41 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in >>>>>> power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools >>>>>> these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even >>>>>> though they scare you.
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman >>>>>>>> <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bagYou have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling. >>>>>>>>
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other >>>>>>> video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty
instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the
pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much
energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with
NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power >>>>>>> tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance.
But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a
good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing. >>>>>>
The context was compared to NiMH.
Gotcha. Is anyone still making NiCD or NiMH tools? I haven't seen
any in a long time.
Don't know. It's been too long since I dug into hand tools much. I
remember having an RC boat which ran ok on alkaline cells. Then I got
rechargeables for it and it TOOK OFF like a rocket. Seems the lower
resistance of the NiCd made a big difference. But it only ran for five
minutes, lol.
Most stuff designed for Alkalines ran like crap with NiCds, due to the
lower voltage. Some stuff didn't run at all (UVLO). NiCds also have
a horrible self discharge and short life, particularly multi-cell
packs if not kept charged. A real bad combination for tools. LiIon
fixes all that.
Self discharge for sure. But I don't know about the short life.
I have a
Makita power tool with NiCd batteries and that thing ran for 15 years before >the battery wouldn't charge. It was often left laying around uncharged so
it wasn't pampered either. I was amazed. A new battery pack costs as much >as a new tool with Li-ion. Actually, I think the tool I replaced it with >*also* used NiCd, to my surprise and it crapped out after a much shorter >time. Finally I got a hammer drill with Li-ion and all is good.
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 23:23:20 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 11:03 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:54:41 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman >>>>>>> <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bagYou have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling. >>>>>>>
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other >>>>>> video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty
instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the
pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much
energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with
NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power >>>>>> tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance.
But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a
good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing.
Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in >>>>> power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools >>>>> these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even
though they scare you.
The context was compared to NiMH.
Gotcha. Is anyone still making NiCD or NiMH tools? I haven't seen
any in a long time.
Don't know. It's been too long since I dug into hand tools much. I >>remember having an RC boat which ran ok on alkaline cells. Then I got >>rechargeables for it and it TOOK OFF like a rocket. Seems the lower >>resistance of the NiCd made a big difference. But it only ran for five >>minutes, lol.
Most stuff designed for Alkalines ran like crap with NiCds, due to the
lower voltage.
On 2017-10-21, krw@notreal.com <krw@notreal.com> wrote:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 23:23:20 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 11:03 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 22:54:41 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote:
krw@notreal.com wrote on 10/20/2017 8:05 PM:
On Fri, 20 Oct 2017 04:56:50 -0400, rickman <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote: >>>>>>
Jan Panteltje wrote on 10/20/2017 3:48 AM:Not sure where you going with your comment that "they" prefer NiCad in >>>>>> power tools. "They" (manufacturers) make almost[*] 100% LiIon tools >>>>>> these days. LiIon is a hands-down winner in this application, even >>>>>> though they scare you.
On a sunny day (Thu, 19 Oct 2017 18:34:47 -0400) it happened rickman >>>>>>>> <gnuarm@gmail.com> wrote in <osb9a9$v5o$1@dont-email.me>:
Interesting. Both videos use a lot more battery than I will use and the bagYou have to leave some opening so the smoke can escape and the pressure can
is barely closed. I would be essentially rolling the bag up and depending
on the size I use I would be folding the sides over before rolling. >>>>>>>>
be prevented to build up to a point where the bag tares.
Yes, but some opening is not the gaping holes in these bags. The other >>>>>>> video with a bunch of batteries in a latched and sealed ammo case is pretty
instructive. Before it broke the seal it actually dented the can with the
pressure. But like I said earlier, one cell of Lipo is not nearly as much
energy as the videos show.
If I could find similar products to the power bank boards that worked with
NiMH, I'd go that route. I believe they actually prefer NiCad in power >>>>>>> tools because of the high current. NiMH has too much internal impedance.
But this will only draw a couple hundred mA most likely, so it would be a
good fit. I would have to roll my own design for the whole thing. >>>>>>
The context was compared to NiMH.
Gotcha. Is anyone still making NiCD or NiMH tools? I haven't seen
any in a long time.
Don't know. It's been too long since I dug into hand tools much. I >>>remember having an RC boat which ran ok on alkaline cells. Then I got >>>rechargeables for it and it TOOK OFF like a rocket. Seems the lower >>>resistance of the NiCd made a big difference. But it only ran for five >>>minutes, lol.
Most stuff designed for Alkalines ran like crap with NiCds, due to the
lower voltage.
Alkalines have lower voltage. 0.9V terminal discharge voltage vs 1.15V
Stuff that quits at 1.2V was not designed, or perhaps was designed to
sell batteries.
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