• Need fuses for Multimeter

    From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jan 30 14:56:19 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the
    other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.

    I have gone to several hardware stores, an automotive parts store, and a
    home improvement center. No one carries this amperage fuse, at least not
    in that length (SFE). I thought I'd use a 1 amp if nothing else, but I
    cant even find those.

    For now, I found a 9 amp that fits, and am using that, but I know that
    is not going to protect the meter.

    I dont buy much online, and only use Ebay when I do. I thought Ebay
    surely would have them, but I was wrong. Ebay has SFE fuses, but only in
    larger amp sizes. Seems 7.5 amp and higher are common.

    (I searched ebay using these words "sfe 1 amp fuse" )

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Does anyone know where I might find these fuses? (Even a 1 amp size).

    No, I am NOT willing to go to one of those places that have a large
    minimum order, or charge $10 or more to ship a small item like this.
    After all, multimeters like this only cost around $25.

    One thing I did find, is at a local hardware store they do have a few
    boxes of AGA 1 amp. Those are a little short though, but I was wondering
    about slipping a tiny piece of copper tubing over one end....

    Without having one of them in front of me, I am not sure what the actual
    length is for a AGA type. But a website lists them as 5/8" so I assume
    that's correct. I also learned that the AG means "ALL GLASS".

    [ I do wonder if I might still find these using other wording, on ebay.
    I really would expect Ebay to have this... ] But what wording???

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tom Del Rosso@21:1/5 to oldschool@tubes.com on Tue Jan 30 17:55:53 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by
    the batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip
    on the other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.

    I forgot to mention what "a fuse like that" means. It's a 'high rupture capacity' HRC fuse. That's what to look for.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jan 30 18:14:36 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <iok17d9mlrbt9b60dpmk6i9ri0da54vavc@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...

    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the
    other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.

    I have gone to several hardware stores, an automotive parts store, and a
    home improvement center. No one carries this amperage fuse, at least not
    in that length (SFE). I thought I'd use a 1 amp if nothing else, but I
    cant even find those.

    For now, I found a 9 amp that fits, and am using that, but I know that
    is not going to protect the meter.

    I dont buy much online, and only use Ebay when I do. I thought Ebay
    surely would have them, but I was wrong. Ebay has SFE fuses, but only in larger amp sizes. Seems 7.5 amp and higher are common.

    (I searched ebay using these words "sfe 1 amp fuse" )

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Does anyone know where I might find these fuses? (Even a 1 amp size).

    No, I am NOT willing to go to one of those places that have a large
    minimum order, or charge $10 or more to ship a small item like this.
    After all, multimeters like this only cost around $25.

    One thing I did find, is at a local hardware store they do have a few
    boxes of AGA 1 amp. Those are a little short though, but I was wondering about slipping a tiny piece of copper tubing over one end....

    Without having one of them in front of me, I am not sure what the actual length is for a AGA type. But a website lists them as 5/8" so I assume
    that's correct. I also learned that the AG means "ALL GLASS".

    [ I do wonder if I might still find these using other wording, on ebay.
    I really would expect Ebay to have this... ] But what wording???


    If you check the book on the meter, you will see that you are not
    looking for a SFE fuse. A SFE fuse that length would only be made in a
    4 amp rating and probably 32 volts. SFE fuses were a certain length
    depeding on the curent rating.

    Your fuse may have a F on it,but probaly not the whole SFE.

    Copied from the internet.

    This fuse is known by the Garner Bender part of GF-0306 and it is rated
    at 500mA, 250V fast blow. It is also known as F500mA, 250V.
    Amazon carries it: www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-500mA-Fast-Blow- Fuse/dp/B000PHCTP2
    And Ebay:
    www.ebay.com/itm/5x-F500mAL250V-F500mA-250V-F500m-L250V-F500mL250V- cartridge-GLASS-fuse-5X20mm-/151136253242
    Or do a search on Google for "F500mA 250V fuse". The are easily and
    readily available.

    End of copy.

    That fuse is probably a metric size fuse.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tom Del Rosso@21:1/5 to oldschool@tubes.com on Tue Jan 30 17:15:42 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Are you kidding? Radio Shack had almost nothing. They never would have
    had a fuse like that even before they started focusing on toys and cell
    phones.

    Haven't you looked at Digi-Key?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jan 30 18:17:19 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <p4qqqg$ru1$1@dont-email.me>, fizzbintuesday@that-google- mail-domain.com says...

    oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Are you kidding? Radio Shack had almost nothing. They never would have
    had a fuse like that even before they started focusing on toys and cell phones.

    Haven't you looked at Digi-Key?


    Radio Shack may have had a fuse for the meter when they were open. Just
    not under the numbers OS gave out. It is probably one of the metric
    fuses and may have had a F on it,but not the SFE.

    Probably one of the metric type fuses and common where fuses are sold.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From M Philbrook@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jan 30 18:18:27 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <iok17d9mlrbt9b60dpmk6i9ri0da54vavc@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...

    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the
    other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.

    I have gone to several hardware stores, an automotive parts store, and a
    home improvement center. No one carries this amperage fuse, at least not
    in that length (SFE). I thought I'd use a 1 amp if nothing else, but I
    cant even find those.

    For now, I found a 9 amp that fits, and am using that, but I know that
    is not going to protect the meter.

    I dont buy much online, and only use Ebay when I do. I thought Ebay
    surely would have them, but I was wrong. Ebay has SFE fuses, but only in larger amp sizes. Seems 7.5 amp and higher are common.

    (I searched ebay using these words "sfe 1 amp fuse" )

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Does anyone know where I might find these fuses? (Even a 1 amp size).

    No, I am NOT willing to go to one of those places that have a large
    minimum order, or charge $10 or more to ship a small item like this.
    After all, multimeters like this only cost around $25.

    One thing I did find, is at a local hardware store they do have a few
    boxes of AGA 1 amp. Those are a little short though, but I was wondering about slipping a tiny piece of copper tubing over one end....

    Without having one of them in front of me, I am not sure what the actual length is for a AGA type. But a website lists them as 5/8" so I assume
    that's correct. I also learned that the AG means "ALL GLASS".

    [ I do wonder if I might still find these using other wording, on ebay.
    I really would expect Ebay to have this... ] But what wording???

    We have bunches are work... 125ma and up.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to rmowery28146@earthlink.net on Tue Jan 30 18:58:46 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On Tue, 30 Jan 2018 18:14:36 -0500, Ralph Mowery
    <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

    In article <iok17d9mlrbt9b60dpmk6i9ri0da54vavc@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...

    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the
    batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the
    other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.

    I have gone to several hardware stores, an automotive parts store, and a
    home improvement center. No one carries this amperage fuse, at least not
    in that length (SFE). I thought I'd use a 1 amp if nothing else, but I
    cant even find those.

    For now, I found a 9 amp that fits, and am using that, but I know that
    is not going to protect the meter.

    I dont buy much online, and only use Ebay when I do. I thought Ebay
    surely would have them, but I was wrong. Ebay has SFE fuses, but only in
    larger amp sizes. Seems 7.5 amp and higher are common.

    (I searched ebay using these words "sfe 1 amp fuse" )

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Does anyone know where I might find these fuses? (Even a 1 amp size).

    No, I am NOT willing to go to one of those places that have a large
    minimum order, or charge $10 or more to ship a small item like this.
    After all, multimeters like this only cost around $25.

    One thing I did find, is at a local hardware store they do have a few
    boxes of AGA 1 amp. Those are a little short though, but I was wondering
    about slipping a tiny piece of copper tubing over one end....

    Without having one of them in front of me, I am not sure what the actual
    length is for a AGA type. But a website lists them as 5/8" so I assume
    that's correct. I also learned that the AG means "ALL GLASS".

    [ I do wonder if I might still find these using other wording, on ebay.
    I really would expect Ebay to have this... ] But what wording???


    If you check the book on the meter, you will see that you are not
    looking for a SFE fuse. A SFE fuse that length would only be made in a
    4 amp rating and probably 32 volts. SFE fuses were a certain length
    depeding on the curent rating.

    Your fuse may have a F on it,but probaly not the whole SFE.

    Copied from the internet.

    This fuse is known by the Garner Bender part of GF-0306 and it is rated
    at 500mA, 250V fast blow. It is also known as F500mA, 250V.
    Amazon carries it: www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-500mA-Fast-Blow- >Fuse/dp/B000PHCTP2
    And Ebay:
    www.ebay.com/itm/5x-F500mAL250V-F500mA-250V-F500m-L250V-F500mL250V- >cartridge-GLASS-fuse-5X20mm-/151136253242
    Or do a search on Google for "F500mA 250V fuse". The are easily and
    readily available.

    End of copy.

    That fuse is probably a metric size fuse.



    Could you be kind enough to tell me where you found an online "book" for
    this meter? I no longer have the paper version.

    Thanks

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Tue Jan 30 22:38:16 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <23527dl231cg98hlo4578ick8gm18gpie4@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...
    Your fuse may have a F on it,but probaly not the whole SFE.

    Copied from the internet.

    This fuse is known by the Garner Bender part of GF-0306 and it is rated
    at 500mA, 250V fast blow. It is also known as F500mA, 250V.
    Amazon carries it: www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-500mA-Fast-Blow- >Fuse/dp/B000PHCTP2
    And Ebay: >www.ebay.com/itm/5x-F500mAL250V-F500mA-250V-F500m-L250V-F500mL250V- >cartridge-GLASS-fuse-5X20mm-/151136253242
    Or do a search on Google for "F500mA 250V fuse". The are easily and
    readily available.

    End of copy.

    That fuse is probably a metric size fuse.



    Could you be kind enough to tell me where you found an online "book" for
    this meter? I no longer have the paper version.



    Look here :

    http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/man-
    migrate/MANUAL000034172.pdf


    The - after man at the end of the line is suspose to be there.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 31 10:06:34 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <fb037dl99i4c3lsdpu7gkjqans34t9qokr@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...
    One thing I do not understand.
    In a store I found some other fuses that were about the same size as the
    SFE. It may have been AGW, but I dont remember for sure. They were 1A
    fuses rated at 32 volts. They were made out of glass, with the metal
    ends, just like the fuses rated at 250V.

    Why would a fuse like that not work at 250 V, or 100 V or any voltage
    above 32 V? I'm sure the glass container and metal ends would not fall apart. And isn't the element inside just a piece of very thin wire whose gauge is determined by the amperage? So, why wouldn't that fuse work at
    a (reasonable) voltage over 32 V? (Or up to 250 V)?

    I'm sure there is a reason, but I sure can not see why? Everything looks identical.





    The reason for the voltage rating is the arc over voltage. That is if
    the voltage is high enough when the fuse element melts there will be an
    arc created in the fuse and the current flow will still not be cut off.

    At work we had some fuses that were about 8 inches long and over an inch
    in diameter. They were rated for only one amp, but for 6000 or so
    volts.

    Fuses that have a higher voltage rating are fine to use in the low
    voltage applications. They only work on the curent. In those
    inexpensive meters with fuses only rated for 250 volts, they could be
    dangerous at higher voltages. We were shown a trainging film by the
    Fluke salesmen. They showed what could hapen if you had a low voltage
    fuse and had the meter set for ohms or amps and put it across a 480 volt
    line with plenty of curent. The fuse would arc over and the leads would
    melt down. You would too if you were holding the leads. They make some special fuses for them to get the higher CAT ratings.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to rmowery28146@earthlink.net on Wed Jan 31 14:23:18 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On Tue, 30 Jan 2018 18:14:36 -0500, Ralph Mowery
    <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

    This fuse is known by the Garner Bender part of GF-0306 and it is rated
    at 500mA, 250V fast blow. It is also known as F500mA, 250V.
    Amazon carries it: www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-500mA-Fast-Blow- >Fuse/dp/B000PHCTP2
    And Ebay:
    www.ebay.com/itm/5x-F500mAL250V-F500mA-250V-F500m-L250V-F500mL250V- >cartridge-GLASS-fuse-5X20mm-/151136253242
    Or do a search on Google for "F500mA 250V fuse". The are easily and
    readily available.

    End of copy.

    That fuse is probably a metric size fuse.


    Just to mention it, I ordered some fuses on Ebay. 5 X 20 mm. I found
    they wanted around $6.50 for five 500ma fuses. Then I found a whole kit
    of 100 of that size fuse, for around $7.25. The kit has ten of the 500ma
    size and ten more each of other amperages, up to 15A. Needless to say, I
    bought the whole kit for pennies more.

    Amazon was pulling their usual shit. They list something for a certain
    price but require a minimum dollar amount order, and add even more if I
    am not a "prime" member and then add high shipping in the end. I began
    with a $7 box of fuses and would have had to pay double that amount in
    the end. Precisely why I never buy from Amazon..... They can keep their bullshit games, and shove their "prime" service up their a$$.

    The initial item was cheaper on Ebay, and with free shipping, Thats all
    I paid, and checking out was much quicker too. I dont know why anyone
    even bothers with Amazon. They're crooks....

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to rmowery28146@earthlink.net on Wed Jan 31 03:00:45 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On Tue, 30 Jan 2018 22:38:16 -0500, Ralph Mowery
    <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

    Your fuse may have a F on it,but probaly not the whole SFE.

    Copied from the internet.

    This fuse is known by the Garner Bender part of GF-0306 and it is rated
    at 500mA, 250V fast blow. It is also known as F500mA, 250V.
    Amazon carries it: www.amazon.com/Littelfuse-500mA-Fast-Blow-
    Fuse/dp/B000PHCTP2
    And Ebay:
    www.ebay.com/itm/5x-F500mAL250V-F500mA-250V-F500m-L250V-F500mL250V-
    cartridge-GLASS-fuse-5X20mm-/151136253242
    Or do a search on Google for "F500mA 250V fuse". The are easily and
    readily available.

    End of copy.

    That fuse is probably a metric size fuse.



    Could you be kind enough to tell me where you found an online "book" for
    this meter? I no longer have the paper version.



    Look here :

    http://ec1.images-amazon.com/media/i3d/01/A/man-
    migrate/MANUAL000034172.pdf


    The - after man at the end of the line is suspose to be there.


    Thanks. It's nice having a manual for it again. I lost a lot of manuals
    for older stuff, because I had them in a garage and mice decided they
    were something to chew up.

    PDF files are better than paper....

    The meter does not say the fuse size inside the case, except 0.5 A and
    250 V. It's probably a year or more since I needed a fuse and used what
    I had on hand, which was a SFE 9 A. It fits, but it looks like it did
    widen the prongs on the fuse holder.I only noticed the wrong size fuse
    and remembered using the wrong size the other day, when I replaced the batteries in it.

    One thing I do not understand.
    In a store I found some other fuses that were about the same size as the
    SFE. It may have been AGW, but I dont remember for sure. They were 1A
    fuses rated at 32 volts. They were made out of glass, with the metal
    ends, just like the fuses rated at 250V.

    Why would a fuse like that not work at 250 V, or 100 V or any voltage
    above 32 V? I'm sure the glass container and metal ends would not fall
    apart. And isn't the element inside just a piece of very thin wire whose
    gauge is determined by the amperage? So, why wouldn't that fuse work at
    a (reasonable) voltage over 32 V? (Or up to 250 V)?

    I'm sure there is a reason, but I sure can not see why? Everything looks identical.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to rmowery28146@earthlink.net on Wed Jan 31 14:07:21 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On Wed, 31 Jan 2018 10:06:34 -0500, Ralph Mowery
    <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:

    In article <fb037dl99i4c3lsdpu7gkjqans34t9qokr@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...
    One thing I do not understand.
    In a store I found some other fuses that were about the same size as the
    SFE. It may have been AGW, but I dont remember for sure. They were 1A
    fuses rated at 32 volts. They were made out of glass, with the metal
    ends, just like the fuses rated at 250V.

    Why would a fuse like that not work at 250 V, or 100 V or any voltage
    above 32 V? I'm sure the glass container and metal ends would not fall
    apart. And isn't the element inside just a piece of very thin wire whose
    gauge is determined by the amperage? So, why wouldn't that fuse work at
    a (reasonable) voltage over 32 V? (Or up to 250 V)?

    I'm sure there is a reason, but I sure can not see why? Everything looks
    identical.





    The reason for the voltage rating is the arc over voltage. That is if
    the voltage is high enough when the fuse element melts there will be an
    arc created in the fuse and the current flow will still not be cut off.

    At work we had some fuses that were about 8 inches long and over an inch
    in diameter. They were rated for only one amp, but for 6000 or so
    volts.

    Fuses that have a higher voltage rating are fine to use in the low
    voltage applications. They only work on the curent. In those
    inexpensive meters with fuses only rated for 250 volts, they could be >dangerous at higher voltages. We were shown a trainging film by the
    Fluke salesmen. They showed what could hapen if you had a low voltage
    fuse and had the meter set for ohms or amps and put it across a 480 volt
    line with plenty of curent. The fuse would arc over and the leads would
    melt down. You would too if you were holding the leads. They make some >special fuses for them to get the higher CAT ratings.


    Ok, that makes sense. Apparently the element inside the fuse must melt
    for a wider gap on higher voltage rated fuses. Which would occur because
    of the type of metal used and/or shape of the wire. I have seen fuses
    with that element looking wavy, so I suppose that has something to do
    with it. This is all mostly just a guess, but something has to make that
    gap wider to prevent arc-over.

    I can see arcing at voltages above 250 V. I have worked on lots of old
    tube tv sets, and have seen the B+ high voltage jump across tube socket
    pins and other places. Most of the time the voltages were from 300 volts
    up to nearing 600 volts. Apparently these meters are not really suited
    for that higher voltage tube gear, even though both the AC and the DC
    ranges go to 1000 V.

    I do find the 32 V limit on some of those fuses sort of an oddball
    figure though. Any voltage from 32 to 100 V is not going to arc much.
    Even 120 V AC line voltage really does not arc very much. Most of the
    arcing I have seen has been over 250 V. The CRT anodes on old CRT tv
    sets were notorious for arcing, but that was several thousand volts. I
    have seen (and felt) the arcing from electric livestock fences (that
    bites, and always makes me use my worst vocabulary). Those fences are
    generally 2000 to 6000 volts.

    Anyhow, this has been an interesting thread. I learned more about fuses,
    which I have used for decades but never given much thought to them,
    other than selecting one that is the right amperage and fits the holder.
    It is likely I have used automotive fuses on tube gear that were not
    rated for the voltage. Now I will be more aware of that.

    Speaking of arcing. There is a youtube video where a main high tension
    line on a tower is disconnected, and that forms am arc that keeps
    growing taller. (Called a Jacobs Ladder). If I recall, the voltage is
    something like 500,000 volts. The guys open 3 switches on the tower (3
    phase), and that arc occurs. Those switches are probably one of more
    feet of gap, but at that voltage it dont seem to matter. That's an
    awesome video.....

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-dom on Wed Jan 31 14:30:17 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On Tue, 30 Jan 2018 17:15:42 -0500, "Tom Del Rosso" <fizzbintuesday@that-google-mail-domain.com> wrote:

    oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

    * Now I know why I miss Radio Shack, they usually had stuff like this.

    Are you kidding? Radio Shack had almost nothing. They never would have
    had a fuse like that even before they started focusing on toys and cell >phones.

    Haven't you looked at Digi-Key?



    Until Radio Shack closed their doors, they DID have a decent selection
    of fuses, switches, and certain other parts. They were lacking with
    capacitors and semiconductors though. Yea, their prices were a little
    high, but they were convenient....

    Places like Digi-Key, Mouser and others like that all have minimum
    orders, and high shipping. I dont even bother looking on those places
    anymore, unless I intend to buy a whole bunch of stuff that I dont
    really need, just to obtain one part.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Dave Platt@21:1/5 to oldschool@tubes.com on Wed Jan 31 14:53:10 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <cf947dpqa56d68hdob75er2c1r480tbnet@4ax.com>,
    <oldschool@tubes.com> wrote:

    Places like Digi-Key, Mouser and others like that all have minimum
    orders, and high shipping.

    I think your information is outdated.

    Mouser: "No minimum order dollar amount on products normally stocked
    in our warehouse."

    Digi-Key: "There is no minimum order or handling fee."

    "Except as otherwise provided on the Site, (1) shipping or
    freight charges and insurance will be paid by the
    customer*,

    * When a check or money order accompanies your order,
    Digi-Key pays all shipping and insurance (our choice for
    method of shipping) to all addresses in the U.S. and
    Canada."

    So, if you want to order a single pack of fuses from Digi-Key, you can
    do so very inexpensively - simply MAIL them your order (rather than
    submitting it on-line) and include a check or money order.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Tom Del Rosso@21:1/5 to oldschool@tubes.com on Wed Jan 31 18:48:47 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    oldschool@tubes.com wrote:

    Until Radio Shack closed their doors, they DID have a decent selection
    of fuses, switches, and certain other parts. They were lacking with capacitors and semiconductors though. Yea, their prices were a little
    high, but they were convenient....

    Since it is for a meter, and because you had trouble finding it, I
    assumed it was an HRC and not a common fuse. Sorry.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 31 18:11:30 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <th847dpmrd03t776hj6brr1nfq3t4nf4ch@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...


    Just to mention it, I ordered some fuses on Ebay. 5 X 20 mm. I found
    they wanted around $6.50 for five 500ma fuses. Then I found a whole kit
    of 100 of that size fuse, for around $7.25. The kit has ten of the 500ma
    size and ten more each of other amperages, up to 15A. Needless to say, I bought the whole kit for pennies more.

    Amazon was pulling their usual shit. They list something for a certain
    price but require a minimum dollar amount order, and add even more if I
    am not a "prime" member and then add high shipping in the end. I began
    with a $7 box of fuses and would have had to pay double that amount in
    the end. Precisely why I never buy from Amazon..... They can keep their bullshit games, and shove their "prime" service up their a$$.

    The initial item was cheaper on Ebay, and with free shipping, Thats all
    I paid, and checking out was much quicker too. I dont know why anyone
    even bothers with Amazon. They're crooks....





    A while back I ordered some coffee off Amazon. It shipped from Target.
    I looked at the Target site and it was less from them, so from then on I
    go to the Target web site. Would go to Target, but it is about 30 miles
    one way from here.

    I live in a small town so not too much around here. Even with some
    shiping charges, it is less expensive for me to order things.

    Really came out a while back with Best Buy. Ordered a 60 inch TV tht
    had free shipping. Two people came out and set it up. They turned it
    on,but said they could not mess with the cable TV as per company policy.
    They carried off the packing material and offered to carry off the old
    TV. All that service was free. The nearest BB is about 30 miles away.

    While I do order from Amazon, I also check other places for the best
    price.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jan 31 18:50:21 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <2i647dla33h4gegvdpqbqn6k5ugu9qeein@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...
    Fuses that have a higher voltage rating are fine to use in the low
    voltage applications. They only work on the curent. In those
    inexpensive meters with fuses only rated for 250 volts, they could be >dangerous at higher voltages. We were shown a trainging film by the
    Fluke salesmen. They showed what could hapen if you had a low voltage >fuse and had the meter set for ohms or amps and put it across a 480 volt >line with plenty of curent. The fuse would arc over and the leads would >melt down. You would too if you were holding the leads. They make some >special fuses for them to get the higher CAT ratings.


    Ok, that makes sense. Apparently the element inside the fuse must melt
    for a wider gap on higher voltage rated fuses. Which would occur because
    of the type of metal used and/or shape of the wire. I have seen fuses
    with that element looking wavy, so I suppose that has something to do
    with it. This is all mostly just a guess, but something has to make that
    gap wider to prevent arc-over.

    I can see arcing at voltages above 250 V. I have worked on lots of old
    tube tv sets, and have seen the B+ high voltage jump across tube socket
    pins and other places. Most of the time the voltages were from 300 volts
    up to nearing 600 volts. Apparently these meters are not really suited
    for that higher voltage tube gear, even though both the AC and the DC
    ranges go to 1000 V.

    I do find the 32 V limit on some of those fuses sort of an oddball
    figure though. Any voltage from 32 to 100 V is not going to arc much.
    Even 120 V AC line voltage really does not arc very much. Most of the
    arcing I have seen has been over 250 V. The CRT anodes on old CRT tv
    sets were notorious for arcing, but that was several thousand volts. I
    have seen (and felt) the arcing from electric livestock fences (that
    bites, and always makes me use my worst vocabulary). Those fences are generally 2000 to 6000 volts.

    Anyhow, this has been an interesting thread. I learned more about fuses, which I have used for decades but never given much thought to them,
    other than selecting one that is the right amperage and fits the holder.
    It is likely I have used automotive fuses on tube gear that were not
    rated for the voltage. Now I will be more aware of that.

    Speaking of arcing. There is a youtube video where a main high tension
    line on a tower is disconnected, and that forms am arc that keeps
    growing taller. (Called a Jacobs Ladder). If I recall, the voltage is something like 500,000 volts. The guys open 3 switches on the tower (3 phase), and that arc occurs. Those switches are probably one of more
    feet of gap, but at that voltage it dont seem to matter. That's an
    awesome video.....




    There is a lot more to the fuses than meets the eye..

    I don't know about the low voltage fuses, but wild guess for the 32
    volts is most of them were used in cars and trucks where 24 volt
    batteries were the highest and the 32 was some safety factor.

    The 250 volt is good for common house voltages in the US.

    My Fluke meter has 2 fuses in it and they are both rated for 1000 volts.
    One is for 11 amps and I don't recall the lower curent one. That is so
    it will meet the CAT 3 requirements. If you have not heard of the CAT requirements, you should look it up on the internet. I don't know wht
    the voltage ratings are for my old Simpson 260, but should look one day.
    I do have abox of fuses that will fit in my Fluke but they are only
    rated for 600 volts AC. As I don't work around anything but around the
    house I would use them if one of the origional ones blow. If I was
    still working and around the 480 vot 3 phase stuff that had 500 amp or
    more fuses in it, I would only replace with the origional type.

    I do have a hand full of the Harbor Freight 'free' voms scattered around
    the house and cars. Good enough for quick checks. They are really very accurate for the price (usually less than 1 % off the Fluke) as I
    compaired them with some of the Fluke meters.

    I do remember drawing arcs of several inches off the old black and white
    TVs. I think they ran about 10 to 12 thousand volts.

    You mentioned the Jachobs ladder. I have made them out of old neon sign transformers and some furnace igniter transformers and some rods about 2
    feet tall.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From bud--@21:1/5 to Ralph Mowery on Thu Feb 1 22:25:24 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On 1/31/2018 5:50 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:
    In article <2i647dla33h4gegvdpqbqn6k5ugu9qeein@4ax.com>,
    oldschool@tubes.com says...
    Fuses that have a higher voltage rating are fine to use in the low
    voltage applications. They only work on the curent. In those
    inexpensive meters with fuses only rated for 250 volts, they could be
    dangerous at higher voltages. We were shown a trainging film by the
    Fluke salesmen. They showed what could hapen if you had a low voltage
    fuse and had the meter set for ohms or amps and put it across a 480 volt >>> line with plenty of curent. The fuse would arc over and the leads would >>> melt down. You would too if you were holding the leads. They make some >>> special fuses for them to get the higher CAT ratings.


    Ok, that makes sense. Apparently the element inside the fuse must melt
    for a wider gap on higher voltage rated fuses. Which would occur because
    of the type of metal used and/or shape of the wire. I have seen fuses
    with that element looking wavy, so I suppose that has something to do
    with it. This is all mostly just a guess, but something has to make that
    gap wider to prevent arc-over.

    I can see arcing at voltages above 250 V. I have worked on lots of old
    tube tv sets, and have seen the B+ high voltage jump across tube socket
    pins and other places. Most of the time the voltages were from 300 volts
    up to nearing 600 volts. Apparently these meters are not really suited
    for that higher voltage tube gear, even though both the AC and the DC
    ranges go to 1000 V.

    I do find the 32 V limit on some of those fuses sort of an oddball
    figure though. Any voltage from 32 to 100 V is not going to arc much.
    Even 120 V AC line voltage really does not arc very much. Most of the
    arcing I have seen has been over 250 V. The CRT anodes on old CRT tv
    sets were notorious for arcing, but that was several thousand volts. I
    have seen (and felt) the arcing from electric livestock fences (that
    bites, and always makes me use my worst vocabulary). Those fences are
    generally 2000 to 6000 volts.

    Anyhow, this has been an interesting thread. I learned more about fuses,
    which I have used for decades but never given much thought to them,
    other than selecting one that is the right amperage and fits the holder.
    It is likely I have used automotive fuses on tube gear that were not
    rated for the voltage. Now I will be more aware of that.

    Speaking of arcing. There is a youtube video where a main high tension
    line on a tower is disconnected, and that forms am arc that keeps
    growing taller. (Called a Jacobs Ladder). If I recall, the voltage is
    something like 500,000 volts. The guys open 3 switches on the tower (3
    phase), and that arc occurs. Those switches are probably one of more
    feet of gap, but at that voltage it dont seem to matter. That's an
    awesome video.....




    There is a lot more to the fuses than meets the eye..

    I don't know about the low voltage fuses, but wild guess for the 32
    volts is most of them were used in cars and trucks where 24 volt
    batteries were the highest and the 32 was some safety factor.

    The 250 volt is good for common house voltages in the US.

    My Fluke meter has 2 fuses in it and they are both rated for 1000 volts.
    One is for 11 amps and I don't recall the lower curent one. That is so
    it will meet the CAT 3 requirements. If you have not heard of the CAT requirements, you should look it up on the internet.

    The fuses are not just voltage rated. The fuses Fluke uses are rated for interrupting on circuits with high available fault current.

    The available fault current rating is very familiar to electricians
    working on power circuitry, like where you used to work.

    "Category rated" meters need to be used on high capacity power equipment
    - you must have used them where you used to work.

    Why use the right fuse, and in particular Cat rated meters: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hp1JdVwbN_U
    and
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P35HRYHFz7c

    "Arc flash" has been recognized as a danger, and provisions are creeping
    into the US National Electrical Code, and it is a particular issue with
    OSHA. "Personal Protective Equipment" may have to be worn when access
    covers are removed, and some equipment is not safe to work on live.

    The smartest electrician I have met was on a trouble call to a food
    plant. He wanted to measure the motor current on a moderately large
    motor. The only place to do that (and a good location) was the motor
    starter. It was in a 480V motor control center - a frame with module
    spaces that motor starter "buckets" were installed into. He opened the
    door and put a clamp on ammeter on the motor lead, absolutely common
    practice. It is not known what happened next, but there was an arc
    flash. He was in the hospital for quite a while. Some of his injuries
    were from copper vapor condensing on his skin. He looked younger after
    the plastic surgery. Among the damage to the plant - one of the high
    voltage primary fuses to the supply transformer for the building blew
    and its fuseholder was damaged and had to be replaced.

    It can be a problem at lower voltages too. A downtown building had a
    mere 208/120V service, but high available fault current with 4 or 6
    supply conduits. The service 'burned down' (no one around). Some of the
    service wires burned back into the conduits, with a few welding
    themselves to the conduit. (The were attached to the utility transformer
    vault bus bars with "cable limiters", a combination lug and fuse - fuse
    was blown.) Some of the wires burned back and remained live.

    Some of you probably have exposure to high capacity power equipment,
    like where you used to work.

    Phil covered some of this also.


    I don't know wht
    the voltage ratings are for my old Simpson 260, but should look one day.
    I do have abox of fuses that will fit in my Fluke but they are only
    rated for 600 volts AC. As I don't work around anything but around the
    house I would use them if one of the origional ones blow. If I was
    still working and around the 480 vot 3 phase stuff that had 500 amp or
    more fuses in it, I would only replace with the origional type.

    I do have a hand full of the Harbor Freight 'free' voms scattered around
    the house and cars. Good enough for quick checks. They are really very accurate for the price (usually less than 1 % off the Fluke) as I
    compaired them with some of the Fluke meters.

    I do remember drawing arcs of several inches off the old black and white
    TVs. I think they ran about 10 to 12 thousand volts.

    You mentioned the Jachobs ladder. I have made them out of old neon sign transformers and some furnace igniter transformers and some rods about 2
    feet tall.



    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Fri Feb 2 14:15:52 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <mMRcC.852$9%2.323@fx36.iad>, null@void.com says...

    My Fluke meter has 2 fuses in it and they are both rated for 1000 volts. One is for 11 amps and I don't recall the lower curent one. That is so
    it will meet the CAT 3 requirements. If you have not heard of the CAT requirements, you should look it up on the internet.

    The fuses are not just voltage rated. The fuses Fluke uses are rated for interrupting on circuits with high available fault current.

    The available fault current rating is very familiar to electricians
    working on power circuitry, like where you used to work.

    "Category rated" meters need to be used on high capacity power equipment
    - you must have used them where you used to work.

    Why use the right fuse, and in particular Cat rated meters: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hp1JdVwbN_U
    and
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=P35HRYHFz7c

    "Arc flash" has been recognized as a danger, and provisions are creeping
    into the US National Electrical Code, and it is a particular issue with
    OSHA. "Personal Protective Equipment" may have to be worn when access
    covers are removed, and some equipment is not safe to work on live.

    The smartest electrician I have met was on a trouble call to a food
    plant. He wanted to measure the motor current on a moderately large
    motor. The only place to do that (and a good location) was the motor
    starter. It was in a 480V motor control center - a frame with module
    spaces that motor starter "buckets" were installed into. He opened the
    door and put a clamp on ammeter on the motor lead, absolutely common practice. It is not known what happened next, but there was an arc
    flash. He was in the hospital for quite a while. Some of his injuries
    were from copper vapor condensing on his skin. He looked younger after
    the plastic surgery. Among the damage to the plant - one of the high
    voltage primary fuses to the supply transformer for the building blew
    and its fuseholder was damaged and had to be replaced.

    It can be a problem at lower voltages too. A downtown building had a
    mere 208/120V service, but high available fault current with 4 or 6
    supply conduits. The service 'burned down' (no one around). Some of the service wires burned back into the conduits, with a few welding
    themselves to the conduit. (The were attached to the utility transformer vault bus bars with "cable limiters", a combination lug and fuse - fuse
    was blown.) Some of the wires burned back and remained live.

    Some of you probably have exposure to high capacity power equipment,
    like where you used to work.



    Where I worked was in a very large plant. The primary feed came in from
    2 directions so we would not loose power if just one of them failed.

    From there it was cut to 13,200 volts and feed to other parts of the
    plant where much of it ws converted to 480 volts 3 phase. We were
    always working on 480 volt circuits that could have up to 500 amp fuses
    feeding them. We used either Fluke meters or the good old Simpson 260
    and the old analog Ampprobe . No 'hobby' or consumer grade meters in
    the plant.

    One fellow at work was just turning on a 480 3 phase breaker for the
    motor starter in one of the motor control centers. It was only about 10
    or 20 amps as I recall. Good thing the door was closed on it at the
    time. There was a major melt down. It took out the buss bars behind
    it. Those were rods about an inch or more in diameter. Hollow, not
    solid. We had to replace the whole MCC. That was about 50 circuits
    ranging from a few amps to about 50 amps in that particular MCC.

    Then there were the low 24 volt circuits ar about 20 milliamps. Nothing
    to get excited about. Just had to really keep in mind what we were
    working on .

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From oldschool@tubes.com@21:1/5 to rmowery28146@earthlink.net on Fri Feb 2 15:07:41 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On Wed, 31 Jan 2018 18:11:30 -0500, Ralph Mowery
    <rmowery28146@earthlink.net> wrote:


    The initial item was cheaper on Ebay, and with free shipping, Thats all
    I paid, and checking out was much quicker too. I dont know why anyone
    even bothers with Amazon. They're crooks....





    A while back I ordered some coffee off Amazon. It shipped from Target.
    I looked at the Target site and it was less from them, so from then on I
    go to the Target web site. Would go to Target, but it is about 30 miles
    one way from here.

    I live in a small town so not too much around here. Even with some
    shiping charges, it is less expensive for me to order things.

    Really came out a while back with Best Buy. Ordered a 60 inch TV tht
    had free shipping. Two people came out and set it up. They turned it
    on,but said they could not mess with the cable TV as per company policy.
    They carried off the packing material and offered to carry off the old
    TV. All that service was free. The nearest BB is about 30 miles away.

    While I do order from Amazon, I also check other places for the best
    price.

    Years ago, I ordered a few books and DVD movies from Amazon. That was
    before they started playing all their stupid games. Back then, I was
    able to look at the item, see it's ACTUAL price and shipping, and
    checkout easily without any minimum order or requirement to join their
    damn "club". Back then Amazon was mostly just there to sell books and recordings.

    I am the kind of person who hates money games both online and in brick
    stores. I once shopped at a Walgreens store that required membership to
    their "rewards club". I only went in there to buy a cold drink (soda) on
    a very hot day. The soda was on sale for something like 79cents. When I
    got to the checkout I was asked for my rewards card. I told them I did
    not have or want one. I was then told that this soda would cost me about
    $2, without the rewards card. She handed me the sign up form. I quickly
    looked it over and said "sorry, I dont give out personal information,
    due to the risk of identity theft". She said, ok, but then you dont get
    the sale price. I replied "and then you dont make a sale", and I walked
    out of the store and have never gone back to any Walgreens store since.

    I guess Amazon is now the online version of Walgreens, and from what I understand, I would have to pay them to join their bullshit "club". NO
    THANKS!

    Even though I'm retired, I have a lot of things to do and even if I am
    not real busy, I have projects to do, friends to visit, and personal
    things that need to be accomplished. I do not have the time or the
    interest in playing these money games, which waste my time. When I shop,
    I make a list, grab what I need and want to exit the store as quick as I
    can. While I like saving money, as do most people, I am not selling my
    identity for a bag of free potato chips or to save a few pennies. If
    people knew how much money those stores make off selling their mailing
    lists, they would have a panic attack, when they realize all they get in
    return is a couple bucks worth of savings from time to time.

    I too live in a rural area, and our local town has little for shopping.
    We have a dollar store (I like that place). We have 2 grocery stores
    which have fair prices. We have a Shopko, that place has outrageously
    high prices. And we have a local ripoff hardware store that charges 2 or
    3 times what the item would sell for at most other stores. Our local
    lumber yard is the same, very over priced. That's about all we have for
    stores.

    The nearest larger city is 55 miles away for me (each way). That's the
    only place I can go to shop at electronic stores, home improvement
    stores, or buy anything beyold the very limited things in our small
    town. There is however a Walmart about 25 miles from here. Either way,
    its costly for fuel and time consuming to go to those stores. So, if I
    need some special thing, I add it to a list and try to limit my trips to
    the big city to once a month. Or I go to that Walmart. Otherwise I am
    stuck paying the very high local prices, or shopping online. I do a lot
    of business on Ebay. At least Ebay puts the price upfront including the shipping and I dont have to play stupid games. Ebay also does a decent
    job of dealing with defective items and other problems for the most
    part.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Brian Gregory@21:1/5 to oldschool@tubes.com on Tue Mar 20 04:33:32 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On 30/01/2018 20:56, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:
    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the
    other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.
    ...

    WTF does SFE mean??

    --

    Brian Gregory (in England).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Tue Mar 20 09:58:56 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    In article <0radnSinAYWBEi3HnZ2dnUU78YudnZ2d@giganews.com>, void- invalid-dead-dontuse@gmail.com says...

    On 30/01/2018 20:56, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:
    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.
    ...

    WTF does SFE mean??

    Society of Fuse Engineers


    North-American built automobiles up to 1981 had electrical systems
    protected by cylindrical glass cartridge fuses rated 32 volts DC and
    current ratings from 4 amperes to 30 amperes. These are known as "SFE"
    fuses, as they were designed by the Society of Fuse Engineers to prevent
    the insertion of a grossly inadequate or unsafe fuse into the vehicle's
    fuse panel.[3][4] These SFE fuses all have a ?1/4 inch diameter, and the
    length varies according to the rating of the fuse.

    A 4 amp SFE 4 fuse is ?5/8 inch long (the same dimension as an AGA fuse
    of any rating),
    a 6 amp SFE 6 fuse is ?3/4 inch long,
    a 7.5 amp SFE 7.5 fuse is ?7/8 inch long (same as an AGW fuse of any
    rating),
    a 9 amp SFE 9 fuse is ?7/8 inch long (same as an AGW fuse of any
    rating),
    a 14 amp SFE 14 fuse is 1?1/16 inch long,
    a 20 amp SFE 20 fuse is 1?1/4 inch long (same as an AGC fuse of any
    rating), and
    a 30 amp SFE 30 fuse is 1?7/16 inches long.[3]

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Brian Gregory@21:1/5 to Ralph Mowery on Mon Mar 26 23:20:50 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On 20/03/2018 13:58, Ralph Mowery wrote:
    In article <0radnSinAYWBEi3HnZ2dnUU78YudnZ2d@giganews.com>, void- invalid-dead-dontuse@gmail.com says...

    On 30/01/2018 20:56, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:
    I have a GB Instruments multimeter (GMT -19A).
    I've had this meter for years and it's always worked fine.

    It came with 2 fuses. One was installed in the fuse holder inside by the >>> batteries. The other is a spare fuse which was in a plastic clip on the
    other side of the batteries, and meant to be a spare.

    The fuses are 7/8 inch long and are supposed to be SFE 0.5 amp / 250V.
    >...

    WTF does SFE mean??

    Society of Fuse Engineers

    <snip>


    Definitely very sub-standard for this application then.

    --

    Brian Gregory (in England).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Badbob@21:1/5 to oldschool@tubes.com on Fri May 25 10:22:59 2018
    XPost: sci.electronics.design

    On 1/30/2018 2:56 PM, oldschool@tubes.com wrote:
    SFE 0.5 amp / 250V


    Consider Amazon. I used them to find a rare car fuse not found locally.
    Because they have everything I always find stuff to make up an order
    for free shipping.

    Bob

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)