Extech EX410A
On 03-10-2024 23:46, john larkin wrote:
Extech EX410A
I have good experience with the Uni-T products.
This one has close to same specs as a Keysigth one:
https://www.amazon.com/UT117C-High-Precision-True-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B0C7HFSVKV
at a third of the price...
On Fri, 4 Oct 2024 09:28:47 +0200, Klaus Vestergaard Kragelund ><klauskvik@hotmail.com> wrote:
On 03-10-2024 23:46, john larkin wrote:
Extech EX410A
I have good experience with the Uni-T products.
This one has close to same specs as a Keysigth one:
https://www.amazon.com/UT117C-High-Precision-True-Digital-Multimeter/dp/B0C7HFSVKV
at a third of the price...
Looks nice, currently unavailable.
Flukes are good, except for the insane pricing. And the insane
difficulty of replacing batteries or fuses.
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
EX410:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>
I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>
Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.
I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had no >difficulties except with various 9V batteries. I got tired of
replacing them. Over the last 5 or so years, I've experimented with
two types of rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries.
The ones without an internal battery charger had self-discharge
problems:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/304501384792>
They work, but I wouldn't recommend them.
The batteries I'm using now, which have a built in charger, are
better:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/386563315011>
On a sunny day (Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann ><jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <7so0gjtispsfqvv9klhq9vlsgfpqd1vs2m@4ax.com>:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com> >>wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
EX410:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>
I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>
Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.
I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had no >>difficulties except with various 9V batteries. I got tired of
replacing them. Over the last 5 or so years, I've experimented with
two types of rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries.
The ones without an internal battery charger had self-discharge
problems:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/304501384792>
They work, but I wouldn't recommend them.
The batteries I'm using now, which have a built in charger, are
better:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/386563315011>
Interesting, did not know that existed.
OTOH my multimeter lasts years on a 9V battery from the supermarket here.. >meter switches off automatically, but I switch it of by hand almost always. >means it is never left on for more than 24 hours..
https://panteltje.nl/pub/chinese_multimeter_img_3159.jpg
I use this too sometimes:
https://www.conrad.nl/nl/p/voltcraft-vc-320-stroomtang-digitaal-cat-ii-600-v-cat-iii-300-v-weergave-counts-2000-1307543.html
Have a Voltcraft soldering station too, now for > 20 years, is OK.
https://panteltje.nl/pub/soldering_iron_LCD_display_IMG_5456.JPG
never a problem...
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 06:45:27 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:
On a sunny day (Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann >><jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <7so0gjtispsfqvv9klhq9vlsgfpqd1vs2m@4ax.com>:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com> >>>wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away >>>>and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
EX410:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>
I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>
Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.
I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had no >>>difficulties except with various 9V batteries. I got tired of
replacing them. Over the last 5 or so years, I've experimented with
two types of rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries.
The ones without an internal battery charger had self-discharge
problems:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/304501384792>
They work, but I wouldn't recommend them.
The batteries I'm using now, which have a built in charger, are
better:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/386563315011>
Interesting, did not know that existed.
Eventually, there will be batteries and cells available in every
combination of size and chemistry. Whether all combinations are
usable, practical or economical, is a different problem. I didn't
know Li-Ion AAA cells existed until after I searched for them. One
day, they magically appeared on eBay and Amazon.
Incidentally, you might find these web pages of interest:
"Low current discharge of batteries" ><https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesLowCurrentDischarge%20UK.html#9V,_Panasonic_Pro_Power>
<https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesLowCurrentDischarge2%20UK.html>
Most of the battery related forums emphasize high current
applications, such as EV's, power tools, drones, flashlights, LED
lighting, etc, while low current devices, such as multimeters,
component testers, ESR meters, TDR's, etc seem to be neglected.
I think LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is a better solution for test >equipment and TV remote controls. With a nominal 3.2V voltage, a
single AA or AAA cell should substitute well for the usual two AA or
AAA cells in series arrangement:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/387366292333>
I'm trying to resist ordering some cells and creating yet another
project that I can't finish.
OTOH my multimeter lasts years on a 9V battery from the supermarket here.. >>meter switches off automatically, but I switch it of by hand almost always. >>means it is never left on for more than 24 hours..
https://panteltje.nl/pub/chinese_multimeter_img_3159.jpg
My main goal is to eliminate non-rechargeable batteries from my life, >especially alkaline cells, which tend to leak and corrode terminals,
wires and PCB's: ><https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>
I use this too sometimes:
https://www.conrad.nl/nl/p/voltcraft-vc-320-stroomtang-digitaal-cat-ii-600-v-cat-iii-300-v-weergave-counts-2000-1307543.html
Have a Voltcraft soldering station too, now for > 20 years, is OK.
https://panteltje.nl/pub/soldering_iron_LCD_display_IMG_5456.JPG
never a problem...
I have a box full of Weller WTCP series (TC202 base) very used
soldering stations along with a collection of half burned out tips. ><https://www.google.com/search?q=weller+wtcpt&udm=2>
I repaired what I could and produced about 15 working soldering
stations from the parts. I sold most of these, but still have and use
about 4 of them. I've had them since early college, which makes them
about 55 years old.
On 05-10-2024 15:35, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 06:45:27 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>I still have my first soldering iron, a Weller WECP-20 (so it's 40 years >old). Use it as much as the Thermaltronics professional station. Comes
wrote:
On a sunny day (Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <7so0gjtispsfqvv9klhq9vlsgfpqd1vs2m@4ax.com>: >>>
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away >>>>> and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
EX410:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>
I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>
Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.
I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had no >>>> difficulties except with various 9V batteries. I got tired of
replacing them. Over the last 5 or so years, I've experimented with
two types of rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries.
The ones without an internal battery charger had self-discharge
problems:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/304501384792>
They work, but I wouldn't recommend them.
The batteries I'm using now, which have a built in charger, are
better:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/386563315011>
Interesting, did not know that existed.
Eventually, there will be batteries and cells available in every
combination of size and chemistry. Whether all combinations are
usable, practical or economical, is a different problem. I didn't
know Li-Ion AAA cells existed until after I searched for them. One
day, they magically appeared on eBay and Amazon.
Incidentally, you might find these web pages of interest:
"Low current discharge of batteries"
<https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesLowCurrentDischarge%20UK.html#9V,_Panasonic_Pro_Power>
<https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesLowCurrentDischarge2%20UK.html>
Most of the battery related forums emphasize high current
applications, such as EV's, power tools, drones, flashlights, LED
lighting, etc, while low current devices, such as multimeters,
component testers, ESR meters, TDR's, etc seem to be neglected.
I think LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is a better solution for test
equipment and TV remote controls. With a nominal 3.2V voltage, a
single AA or AAA cell should substitute well for the usual two AA or
AAA cells in series arrangement:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/387366292333>
I'm trying to resist ordering some cells and creating yet another
project that I can't finish.
OTOH my multimeter lasts years on a 9V battery from the supermarket here.. >>> meter switches off automatically, but I switch it of by hand almost always. >>> means it is never left on for more than 24 hours..
https://panteltje.nl/pub/chinese_multimeter_img_3159.jpg
My main goal is to eliminate non-rechargeable batteries from my life,
especially alkaline cells, which tend to leak and corrode terminals,
wires and PCB's:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>
I use this too sometimes:
https://www.conrad.nl/nl/p/voltcraft-vc-320-stroomtang-digitaal-cat-ii-600-v-cat-iii-300-v-weergave-counts-2000-1307543.html
Have a Voltcraft soldering station too, now for > 20 years, is OK.
https://panteltje.nl/pub/soldering_iron_LCD_display_IMG_5456.JPG
never a problem...
I have a box full of Weller WTCP series (TC202 base) very used
soldering stations along with a collection of half burned out tips.
<https://www.google.com/search?q=weller+wtcpt&udm=2>
I repaired what I could and produced about 15 working soldering
stations from the parts. I sold most of these, but still have and use
about 4 of them. I've had them since early college, which makes them
about 55 years old.
in handy when I need something with more heat capacity.
Also have a Weller WMRP. Heats up in 3 seconds:
https://www.conradelektronik.dk/da/p/weller-wmrp-set-loddekolber-40-w-inkl-opbevaring-588538.html
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 06:45:27 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:
On a sunny day (Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann >> <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <7so0gjtispsfqvv9klhq9vlsgfpqd1vs2m@4ax.com>:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
EX410:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>
I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>
Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.
I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had no
difficulties except with various 9V batteries. I got tired of
replacing them. Over the last 5 or so years, I've experimented with
two types of rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries.
The ones without an internal battery charger had self-discharge
problems:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/304501384792>
They work, but I wouldn't recommend them.
The batteries I'm using now, which have a built in charger, are
better:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/386563315011>
Interesting, did not know that existed.
Eventually, there will be batteries and cells available in every
combination of size and chemistry. Whether all combinations are
usable, practical or economical, is a different problem. I didn't
know Li-Ion AAA cells existed until after I searched for them. One
day, they magically appeared on eBay and Amazon.
Incidentally, you might find these web pages of interest:
"Low current discharge of batteries" <https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesLowCurrentDischarge%20UK.html#9V,_Panasonic_Pro_Power>
<https://lygte-info.dk/info/BatteriesLowCurrentDischarge2%20UK.html>
Most of the battery related forums emphasize high current
applications, such as EV's, power tools, drones, flashlights, LED
lighting, etc, while low current devices, such as multimeters,
component testers, ESR meters, TDR's, etc seem to be neglected.
I think LiFePO4 (lithium iron phosphate) is a better solution for test equipment and TV remote controls. With a nominal 3.2V voltage, a
single AA or AAA cell should substitute well for the usual two AA or
AAA cells in series arrangement:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/387366292333>
I'm trying to resist ordering some cells and creating yet another
project that I can't finish.
OTOH my multimeter lasts years on a 9V battery from the supermarket here.. >> meter switches off automatically, but I switch it of by hand almost always. >> means it is never left on for more than 24 hours..
https://panteltje.nl/pub/chinese_multimeter_img_3159.jpg
My main goal is to eliminate non-rechargeable batteries from my life, especially alkaline cells, which tend to leak and corrode terminals,
wires and PCB's: <https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>
I use this too sometimes:
https://www.conrad.nl/nl/p/voltcraft-vc-320-stroomtang-digitaal-cat-ii-600-v-cat-iii-300-v-weergave-counts-2000-1307543.html
Have a Voltcraft soldering station too, now for > 20 years, is OK.
https://panteltje.nl/pub/soldering_iron_LCD_display_IMG_5456.JPG
never a problem...
I have a box full of Weller WTCP series (TC202 base) very used
soldering stations along with a collection of half burned out tips. <https://www.google.com/search?q=weller+wtcpt&udm=2>
I repaired what I could and produced about 15 working soldering
stations from the parts. I sold most of these, but still have and use
about 4 of them. I've had them since early college, which makes them
about 55 years old.
I still have my first soldering iron, a Weller WECP-20 (so it's 40 years >old). Use it as much as the Thermaltronics professional station. Comes
in handy when I need something with more heat capacity.
Also have a Weller WMRP. Heats up in 3 seconds: >https://www.conradelektronik.dk/da/p/weller-wmrp-set-loddekolber-40-w-inkl-opbevaring-588538.html
On Sat, 5 Oct 2024 21:04:03 +0200, Klaus Vestergaard Kragelund <klauskvik@hotmail.com> wrote:
I still have my first soldering iron, a Weller WECP-20 (so it's 40 years
old). Use it as much as the Thermaltronics professional station. Comes
in handy when I need something with more heat capacity.
Also have a Weller WMRP. Heats up in 3 seconds:
https://www.conradelektronik.dk/da/p/weller-wmrp-set-loddekolber-40-w-inkl-opbevaring-588538.html
Nice. A fine tip would be nice but I do fine soldering with a hot air
gun or a copper wire wrapped around the soldering tip (with plenty of
flux). <https://www.instructables.com/Making-a-fine-tip-for-your-solding-iron-for-SMD-so/>
My traveling kit has a TS101 style soldering iron which I don't use
very often. Something like this: <https://www.amazon.com/TOOLSAGE-Kit-Programmable-TS101B-B2/dp/B0C39SPZXH>
On Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com> >>wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
It shuts off in the middle of a measurement, and you have to rotate
the very klunky range knob all the way back to OFF and then all the
way back to where it was.
It's OK for one-time measurements I guess, but terrible for bench >experiments.
Extech was planning to introduce some thermal imagers, so FLIR bought
them to stop it. That's all FLIR really cares about.
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 07:52:25 -0700, john larkin <JL@gct.com> wrote:
On Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
It shuts off in the middle of a measurement, and you have to rotate
the very klunky range knob all the way back to OFF and then all the
way back to where it was.
It's OK for one-time measurements I guess, but terrible for bench
experiments.
I agree. That's a serious problem.
Some of the Extech meters have a way to disable auto power off. It's
usually disarmed by holding down one of the buttons while turning on
the meter. I couldn't find anything like that for the EX410A. I'll
look again when I'm more awake.
However, my Uni-T UT-210E does have a way to disable auto power off.
From the user docs at: <https://meters.uni-trend.com/download/ut210e-user-manual/?wpdmdl=7228>
- Automatic power-off: when measuring, if the rotary button has not
pulled out in 15 minutes, the instrument will automatically power off
to save energy. In automatic power-off mode, turn rotary button to OFF
and restart the machine, or click any key to wake the instrument.
- Turn off automatic power-off function: press and hold SELECT key,
then power-on start, you will heard 5 buzzing which means automatic
power-off function is cancelled. Turn off and restart the machine,
automatic power-off function will be recovered.
- The buzzer will send out 5 warnings 1 minute before automatic power
off. A long buzz will be heard before power off When automatic power
off function is canceled, you will hear 5 continuous warnings in every
15 minutes.
I just tested it and found that it works as described. Maybe a meter
made by Uni-T might be less stupid. The manual doesn't mention that
every time you turn the meter off, auto power off is re-enabled. You
need to remember to hold down the SELECT button every time you turn it
on. For bench use, I don't see this as much of a problem. For my
use, which involves turning it on/off many times, it's still a
problem.
I mentioned that the UT-210E is hackable. See: <https://github.com/bdlow/UT210E?tab=readme-ov-file#modify-the-auto-off-and-backlight-times>
The programming looks easy, but providing the adapter needed to
program the DM24C02A EEPROM seems rather messy. For an 8 pin SOIC
package, I would desolder the device and do the editing in an external programmer. Whether this is worthy of the time and effort involved is
your decision.
Extech was planning to introduce some thermal imagers, so FLIR bought
them to stop it. That's all FLIR really cares about.
I didn't know that. FLIR bought Extech in Oct, 2007. After 17 years
and once FLIR owns the IP (intellectual property), I would have
expected FLIR to sell off Extech in parts and pieces: <https://www.flir.com/about/about-flir/about-extech/>
"In 2007, Extech was acquired by Teledyne FLIR, a global leader in
innovative infrared thermal imaging solutions."
Well maybe. FLIR did sell off Extech Data System, which made portable printers in 2009. Looks to me that FLIR had too much cash on hand and
needed to buy something quickly:
"FLIR Systems Reports Record Fourth Quarter and Full Year 2007
Financial Results" <https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2008/02/07/1049954/0/en/FLIR-Systems-Reports-Record-Fourth-Quarter-and-Full-Year-2007-Financial-Results.html>
"Cash provided by operations during the quarter was a record $55
million. Cash used during the quarter included $40 million for the acquisition of Extech Instruments..."
$50 million cash for Extech seems to me to have been a bargain
purchase.
I remember the Wellers from work, had one for years at home too.
As to rechargable AAA and AA I use 'Eneloop' batteries,
self discharge is almost zero, nice in a small flashlight (always light even if not used in ages)
in TV remotes, even in my gamma spectrometer.
I have some AA lifepo4 and a 250 Ah big 12V lifepo4 pack with a 2 kW 50 Hz DC/ AC converter
that can power my fridge or even a cooking plate or a microwave if needed.
https://panteltje.online/pub/250_Ah_12V_to_230V_sinewave_IXXIMG_0796.JPG
Flexible solar cells I can lay out in the garden... and a charger for the battery pack.
I do use a lipo in my weather station, one 3V lipo + a short (Ohm) AAA battery >to replace 2 1.5 V batteries, same in one remote.
The weather station runs a few month on that before it needs a re-charge.
The remote I do not remember having recharged in a few years...
And have several lipo 2 and 3 cell models for my drones:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/3cell_40C_ebay_lipo_IMG_6682.JPG
And ofcourse many of these in different projects:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/SWR_bridge_wired_IMG_5013.JPG https://panteltje.online/pub/SWR_bridge_on_dummy_load_IMG_5046.JPG
As a kid I started with 4.5 V batteries...
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 14:37:55 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:
(chomp)
I remember the Wellers from work, had one for years at home too.
I remember and like the reassuring clicking sound of the "magnastat" >contacts. If I don't hear the clicking, I know something is seriously
wrong (such as the contacts welded together).
As to rechargable AAA and AA I use 'Eneloop' batteries,
self discharge is almost zero, nice in a small flashlight (always light even if not used in ages)
in TV remotes, even in my gamma spectrometer.
NiMH generally work well in devices that will tolerate low voltages.
Eneloop cells start out at about 1.5V and expected to work down to
1.2V. Most of the meters and gadgets fail at 1.3V and below. My
guess(tm) is that the meter starts to complain that it wants a charge
when about 40% of the capacity is still left in the battery. Most of
the equipment I've seen is designed to use alkaline cells which has a
higher voltage range.
There are also consistence problems and matching issues with NiMH: ><https://eneloop101.com/batteries/eneloop-test-results/>
Fun with shorting alakline batteries: ><https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/Duracell/index.html>
I have some AA lifepo4 and a 250 Ah big 12V lifepo4 pack with a 2 kW 50 Hz DC/ AC converter
that can power my fridge or even a cooking plate or a microwave if needed.
https://panteltje.online/pub/250_Ah_12V_to_230V_sinewave_IXXIMG_0796.JPG >>Flexible solar cells I can lay out in the garden... and a charger for the battery pack.
I have a gasoline generator for running my two refrigerators. I tried
using batteries and an inverter, but they couldn't tolerate the
required peak surge current of the refrigerators. Generators are also
useful for drying my gloves.
<https://photos.app.goo.gl/WDezqtWsXkfubmdJ8>
I have two LiFePO4 batteries: ><https://www.bioennopower.com/products/12v-20ah-lfp-battery>
I plan to use them in running my networking and media (TV) equipment,
which I'm slowly converting to run on 12V DC power. I live in the
deep dark forest, where solar power is not practical. I do have a 160
watt panel that works for a few hours during summer and doesn't work
at all during winter.
I do use a lipo in my weather station, one 3V lipo + a short (Ohm) AAA battery
to replace 2 1.5 V batteries, same in one remote.
Ok, that works. My problem with do-it-thyself battery power systems
is they usually are missing the BMS (battery management system). A
BMS is mandatory for Lithium-Anything system.
The weather station runs a few month on that before it needs a re-charge.
I solved that problem a few years ago by convincing a neighbor to buy
a "no moving parts" weather station for about $300. ><https://tempestwx.com/station/76665/grid> ><https://shop.tempest.earth/products/tempest>
I get to play with it and he gets to deal with maintenance issues.
The remote I do not remember having recharged in a few years...
I have a bad habit called "YouTube". Google allows free streaming on >YouTube, but adds an overdose of commercials. The commercials are
tolerable because Google allows me to skip forward with the touch of a
button on the remote control. Unfortunately, my remote is by Roku,
which is not very well constructed, and with the upcoming election,
the number of commercial interruptions have grown substantially. I
haven't counted, but I would guess(tm) that I need to push the same
remote button 100 times per day. The average life of my remote
control buttons is about 3 months. A remote doesn't last long enough
for me to worry about charging. I stuff in whatever AAA alkaline
cells I can find and use the remote until it dies. ><https://www.roku.com/products/accessories>
And have several lipo 2 and 3 cell models for my drones:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/3cell_40C_ebay_lipo_IMG_6682.JPG
I have 2 drones. I haven't flown either drone for about 6 years.
Flying a drone in the trees is a really bad idea. Also, the county >government and FCC have various restrictions that make legal drone
flying without a commercial license almost impossible. For
entertainment I've become rather adept at indoor drone flying. I
can't find any photos. Remind me to take some photos if you're
interested.
And ofcourse many of these in different projects:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/SWR_bridge_wired_IMG_5013.JPG
https://panteltje.online/pub/SWR_bridge_on_dummy_load_IMG_5046.JPG
I'll pretend to be polite and not say anything about the wiring.
As a kid I started with 4.5 V batteries...
I'm still a kid.
On a sunny day (Sat, 05 Oct 2024 17:30:03 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <ugj3gjp918lmu1b7fipb2vqe4a2kucgf5q@4ax.com>:
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 14:37:55 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:
(chomp)
I remember the Wellers from work, had one for years at home too.
I remember and like the reassuring clicking sound of the "magnastat"
contacts. If I don't hear the clicking, I know something is seriously
wrong (such as the contacts welded together).
As to rechargable AAA and AA I use 'Eneloop' batteries,
self discharge is almost zero, nice in a small flashlight (always light even if not used in ages)
in TV remotes, even in my gamma spectrometer.
NiMH generally work well in devices that will tolerate low voltages.
Eneloop cells start out at about 1.5V and expected to work down to
1.2V. Most of the meters and gadgets fail at 1.3V and below. My
guess(tm) is that the meter starts to complain that it wants a charge
when about 40% of the capacity is still left in the battery. Most of
the equipment I've seen is designed to use alkaline cells which has a
higher voltage range.
There are also consistence problems and matching issues with NiMH:
<https://eneloop101.com/batteries/eneloop-test-results/>
Wow, some test site.
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 14:37:55 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:
(chomp)
I remember the Wellers from work, had one for years at home too.
I remember and like the reassuring clicking sound of the "magnastat" >contacts. If I don't hear the clicking, I know something is seriously
wrong (such as the contacts welded together).
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away
and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
EX410:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>
I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:
<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>
Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.
I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had no >difficulties except with various 9V batteries. I got tired of
replacing them. Over the last 5 or so years, I've experimented with
two types of rechargeable Li-Ion 9V batteries.
The ones without an internal battery charger had self-discharge
problems:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/304501384792>
They work, but I wouldn't recommend them.
The batteries I'm using now, which have a built in charger, are
better:
<https://www.ebay.com/itm/386563315011>
If your complaint about the auto power off feature involves some
leakage current when the auto power off feature has turned off, these >batteries might help.
I just measured the battery drains in my Extech EX470.
Time to power off: 30 mins
Operating battery current: 5.4 ma
Power off after timeout: 0.02 ma
Power off using rotary switch: <0.01 ma
I also have a Uni-T UT210E. ><https://meters.uni-trend.com/product/ut210-series/>
I bought it for automotive use because of the "clamp on" DC Ammeter
feature. 3 DC scales (2, 20, 100 Amps DC) using a hall effect device.
It's sensitive to nearby metal objects at <1A DC. Switching from
between AC and DC is not logical. When switching ranges, it also
switches from DC -> AC. When using the hall effect ammeter, resetting
to zero has to be done fairly often. It uses two AAA alkaline cells.
NiMH will barely work due to low voltage. Li-Ion AAA are available
but I haven't tried any (yet):
<https://www.xtar.cc/aa-aaa-battery.html> ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/364640309348>
Otherwise, I like Uni-T.
Also, some hacking is possible: ><https://www.eevblog.com/forum/testgear/a-look-at-the-uni-t-ut210e/>
On a sunny day (Sat, 05 Oct 2024 17:30:03 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann ><jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <ugj3gjp918lmu1b7fipb2vqe4a2kucgf5q@4ax.com>: >>There are also consistence problems and matching issues with NiMH: >><https://eneloop101.com/batteries/eneloop-test-results/>
Wow, some test site.
Eneloop looks good, oldest onces I have are AAA from 2010 ...
still going fine, some in remotes, one in an inside/outside temperature meter >I have a DCF radio-clock with eneloop too.
Fun with shorting alakline batteries: >><https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/Duracell/index.html>
I gave up on Duracell long ago, when the AA rechargebles I bought for a lot of money
did not keepd their charge even for a few days!
I still have those, repeated test once .. some result.. crap.
No generator here, but I am considering buying something like this:
https://tesup.com/uk/tesup-vertical-wind-turbines-for-homes
there is more wind than sun here :-)
I have two LiFePO4 batteries: >><https://www.bioennopower.com/products/12v-20ah-lfp-battery>
That is very expensive,
I payed $872.14 for my 12 V Lifepo4 250 Ah battery pack from Aliexpress.
Well, I am more lucky with a huge garden where the wind can blow,
A wind generator on the roof would produce a LOT of power here,
but might blow away in the next storm, we just had one.
But in the garden, why not?
Can you not mount something on top of an old tree?
I solved that problem a few years ago by convincing a neighbor to buy
a "no moving parts" weather station for about $300. >><https://tempestwx.com/station/76665/grid> >><https://shop.tempest.earth/products/tempest>
I get to play with it and he gets to deal with maintenance issues.
Better than mine, mine only does temperature and humidity, sends data via RF to an in-house receiver.
I also log it to a file, receive it with an RTL-SDR stick connected to a Raspberry Pi.
I have been experimenting with wind speed - and direction sensors based on temperature differences:
https://panteltje.nl/panteltje/pic/wind_pic_thermal_udp/
and by using ultrasonics:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/wind_speed_by_differential_2_ebay_distance_meters_IMG_4891.JPG
these are 2 dolar ultrasonic distance meters from ebay..
Well, I did some testing writing quadcopter code, these days useful for bombing I guess:
https://panteltje.nl/panteltje/quadcopter/index.html
I'll pretend to be polite and not say anything about the wiring.
Ah, how 'bout this then?
https://panteltje.nl/pub/z80/sound_card_bottom.jpg
As a kid I started with 4.5 V batteries...
I'm still a kid.
Sure, almost 80 here ...
I am still running around, biking, writing code and soldering with 60/40. >lead bad?
;-)
Inhaled resin smoke all my life,
BTW that Voltcraft soldering iron has adjustable preset temperatures,
so no special tips needed like a Weller.
Also I >never use a wet sponge< on the tips,
I clean tips with a piece of kleenex or even toilet paper, or rub it against the lead..
Using wet sponges kills your soldering tips, it is a sales trick.
I have tips that still look fine after 24 years.
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 17:30:03 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 14:37:55 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid> >>wrote:
(chomp)
I remember the Wellers from work, had one for years at home too.
I remember and like the reassuring clicking sound of the "magnastat" >>contacts. If I don't hear the clicking, I know something is seriously >>wrong (such as the contacts welded together).
I think they used a Curie effect magetic path to switch the heater
contacts.
Metcal uses Curie effect without the contacts.
Seems to me that a thermocouple and a heater would work as well.
On Sun, 06 Oct 2024 06:04:58 GMT, Jan Panteltje <alien@comet.invalid>
wrote:
On a sunny day (Sat, 05 Oct 2024 17:30:03 -0700) it happened Jeff Liebermann >><jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote in <ugj3gjp918lmu1b7fipb2vqe4a2kucgf5q@4ax.com>: >>>There are also consistence problems and matching issues with NiMH: >>><https://eneloop101.com/batteries/eneloop-test-results/>
Wow, some test site.
Yes. I find the best web sites when I'm looking for something else.
Eneloop looks good, oldest onces I have are AAA from 2010 ...
still going fine, some in remotes, one in an inside/outside temperature meter >>I have a DCF radio-clock with eneloop too.
Will your DCF radio clock operate at 1.2VDC (or less) at the radios
"normal" current drain? Actually, yours probably uses two cell in
series, so that should be 2.4VDC.
The better NiMH cells provide 1.2V
with a very light load: ><https://eneloop101.com/wp-content/uploads/eneloop-sanyo-white-1900-mah-cell-2007-2017-10-year-battery_-capacity-test.png>
Disabling the receiver for most of the day and only operating it for a
few minutes when propagation is good (after midnight), isn't
sufficient. The battery voltage might be higher than 1.2V when the
receiver is off, but as soon as the receiver comes on, and the current
drain increases, the voltage will drop below 1.2V. I forgot how much
lower. I did some polarization testing with an Oregon Scientific Time >Machine using WWVB. It ran on two AAA cells. Alkaline and
carbon-zinc worked well, but NiMH lost considerable sensitivity as the >battery aged:
<https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/WWVB%20test/> ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/387144016757>
I just found the device. If I get ambitious or bored, I'll put the
clock on a variable voltage power supply and see how it handles low
battery voltages.
Fun with shorting alakline batteries: >>><https://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/Duracell/index.html>
I gave up on Duracell long ago, when the AA rechargebles I bought for a lot of money
did not keepd their charge even for a few days!
I still have those, repeated test once .. some result.. crap.
The photos are not of a common Duracell leaking electrolyte, but
rather of a premium Duracell exploding inside its metal case. There's
a small chance that this 9V battery was a counterfeit, but it's too
late to check.
No generator here, but I am considering buying something like this:
https://tesup.com/uk/tesup-vertical-wind-turbines-for-homes
there is more wind than sun here :-)
Ummm... A tiny desktop vertical rotating turbine is not likely to
produce 10 Kw of power. The unspecified size solar panel might
produce 10 Kw, but a small desktop device will only deliver a few
watts at best.
I've had some experience with vertical turbine generators. In a
strong wind, they can't be feathered and will usually rip the base out
of the roof or whatever it's mounted on. They also make far too much
noise. When ground mounted, the part of the vertical turbine blades
near the ground don't contribute much power.
I suggest you do some reading before you waste your money: ><https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vertical-axis_wind_turbine>
I have two LiFePO4 batteries: >>><https://www.bioennopower.com/products/12v-20ah-lfp-battery>
That is very expensive,
I payed $872.14 for my 12 V Lifepo4 250 Ah battery pack from Aliexpress.
I didn't pay anywhere near full price for the two batteries. I don't
want to explain how I obtained the batteries but I will assure you
that I didn't steal them.
Well, I am more lucky with a huge garden where the wind can blow,
A wind generator on the roof would produce a LOT of power here,
but might blow away in the next storm, we just had one.
But in the garden, why not?
Can you not mount something on top of an old tree?
Again, you can't easily feather a vertical wind turbine. There's no
easy way to point the vertical turbine blades perpendicular to the
wind. The only way to slow down the rotation is with some form of
brake, which essentially converts the wind energy into heat. Imagine
your turbine dissipating 10 Kw of heat continuously.
I solved that problem a few years ago by convincing a neighbor to buy
a "no moving parts" weather station for about $300. >>><https://tempestwx.com/station/76665/grid> >>><https://shop.tempest.earth/products/tempest>
I get to play with it and he gets to deal with maintenance issues.
Better than mine, mine only does temperature and humidity, sends data via RF to an in-house receiver.
I also log it to a file, receive it with an RTL-SDR stick connected to a Raspberry Pi.
I have been experimenting with wind speed - and direction sensors based on temperature differences:
https://panteltje.nl/panteltje/pic/wind_pic_thermal_udp/
and by using ultrasonics:
https://panteltje.nl/pub/wind_speed_by_differential_2_ebay_distance_meters_IMG_4891.JPG
these are 2 dolar ultrasonic distance meters from ebay..
That's roughly the way the Tempest weather station works. I suggest
you look at the available data sheet, feature list, and software
before you reinvent the device. Communications is via Wi-Fi: ><https://shop.tempest.earth/products/hub>
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lks6lIb5gGM>
See "Technical Questions" near middle of FAQ: ><https://tempest.earth/frequently-asked-questions/>
How does the ultrasonic anemometer work?
The ultra-sonic anemometer is composed of 4 transducers housed in the
top of the device. The Tempest measures wind speed and direction based
on the time of flight of ultrasonic pulses between pairs of
transducers. This allows for a high degree of accuracy especially in
variable wind conditions. An ultrasonic sensor is very good at
detecting light winds and has an advantage over mechanical sensors
which require momentum to rotate their bearings. Tempest’s ultrasonic >anemometer has an upper detection limit of 100mph (~160 kmph). Any
wind speeds above this threshold may be outside of accuracy
specifications.
Well, I did some testing writing quadcopter code, these days useful for bombing I guess:
https://panteltje.nl/panteltje/quadcopter/index.html
Sorry, but exploding drones have been replaced by exploding pagers.
I'll pretend to be polite and not say anything about the wiring.
Ah, how 'bout this then?
https://panteltje.nl/pub/z80/sound_card_bottom.jpg
The wiring is (barely) tolerable. However, whatever animal droppings
you used for flux is beyond disgusting. I suggest baptizing your
wiring maze in some alcohol, which should remove the brown goo and
make your masterpiece presentable.
As a kid I started with 4.5 V batteries...
I'm still a kid.
Sure, almost 80 here ...
I'm 76 and holding. ><http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/jeffl/jeffl-wolf.gif>
I am still running around, biking, writing code and soldering with 60/40. >>lead bad?
;-)
Inhaled resin smoke all my life,
I've given up running and cycling and downsized to walking and hiking. ><https://www.strava.com/athletes/103870441>
<http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/bicycles/5bikes.JPG>
I don't write code. Many years ago, I had to choose between a career
in hardware or software. I chose hardware because it was less likely
to be automated into insignificance. So far, I think I made the right >choice.
I still use 63/37 tin-lead solder, but have forced myself to tolerate
using ROHS dross. I have separate soldering and desoldering stations
on my bench, one for each blend. There's are two small fans blowing
the fumes towards the wall behind my bench, which has slowly changed
from white to brown. I make my own rosin flux from pine tree sap and >isopropyl alcohol. It's very organic, substitutes nicely for incense
and might even be healthy.
BTW that Voltcraft soldering iron has adjustable preset temperatures,
so no special tips needed like a Weller.
Also I >never use a wet sponge< on the tips,
I clean tips with a piece of kleenex or even toilet paper, or rub it against the lead..
Using wet sponges kills your soldering tips, it is a sales trick.
I have tips that still look fine after 24 years.
I didn't know that. I use cellulose sponges and water for tip
cleaning. I also use some brass "wool" tip cleaners. For the big
irons, I use a sal ammoniac (ammonium chloride) block. When I bought
the box of Weller soldering station parts many years ago, it came with
about 50 dirty Weller tips. I soon determined that the company that
provided me with these irons had a policy of not cleaning tips. When
a tip became dirty with burned flux, it was replaced with a new tip.
After some experimenting, I managed to clean almost all the tips, some
of which I still use today.
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>wrote:>Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy>>The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away>and get something usable.What don't you like about the auto power offfeature in the EX410A?EX410:<https://www.flir.com/products/ex410a/>I have two Extech EX470 DMM's:<https://www.flir.com/products/ex470a>Presumably, the auto power off function is similar.I've had both DMM's for over 10 years and use them often. I've had
On 06-10-2024 00:15, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 07:52:25 -0700, john larkin <JL@gct.com> wrote:For IR measurements for handheld, I use Seek Thermal:
On Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin <jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine away >>>>> and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
It shuts off in the middle of a measurement, and you have to rotate
the very klunky range knob all the way back to OFF and then all the
way back to where it was.
It's OK for one-time measurements I guess, but terrible for bench
experiments.
I agree. That's a serious problem.
Some of the Extech meters have a way to disable auto power off. It's
usually disarmed by holding down one of the buttons while turning on
the meter. I couldn't find anything like that for the EX410A. I'll
look again when I'm more awake.
However, my Uni-T UT-210E does have a way to disable auto power off.
From the user docs at:
<https://meters.uni-trend.com/download/ut210e-user-manual/?wpdmdl=7228>
- Automatic power-off: when measuring, if the rotary button has not
pulled out in 15 minutes, the instrument will automatically power off
to save energy. In automatic power-off mode, turn rotary button to OFF
and restart the machine, or click any key to wake the instrument.
- Turn off automatic power-off function: press and hold SELECT key,
then power-on start, you will heard 5 buzzing which means automatic
power-off function is cancelled. Turn off and restart the machine,
automatic power-off function will be recovered.
- The buzzer will send out 5 warnings 1 minute before automatic power
off. A long buzz will be heard before power off When automatic power
off function is canceled, you will hear 5 continuous warnings in every
15 minutes.
I just tested it and found that it works as described. Maybe a meter
made by Uni-T might be less stupid. The manual doesn't mention that
every time you turn the meter off, auto power off is re-enabled. You
need to remember to hold down the SELECT button every time you turn it
on. For bench use, I don't see this as much of a problem. For my
use, which involves turning it on/off many times, it's still a
problem.
I mentioned that the UT-210E is hackable. See:
<https://github.com/bdlow/UT210E?tab=readme-ov-file#modify-the-auto-off-and-backlight-times>
The programming looks easy, but providing the adapter needed to
program the DM24C02A EEPROM seems rather messy. For an 8 pin SOIC
package, I would desolder the device and do the editing in an external
programmer. Whether this is worthy of the time and effort involved is
your decision.
Extech was planning to introduce some thermal imagers, so FLIR bought
them to stop it. That's all FLIR really cares about.
I didn't know that. FLIR bought Extech in Oct, 2007. After 17 years
and once FLIR owns the IP (intellectual property), I would have
expected FLIR to sell off Extech in parts and pieces:
<https://www.flir.com/about/about-flir/about-extech/>
"In 2007, Extech was acquired by Teledyne FLIR, a global leader in
innovative infrared thermal imaging solutions."
Well maybe. FLIR did sell off Extech Data System, which made portable
printers in 2009. Looks to me that FLIR had too much cash on hand and
needed to buy something quickly:
"FLIR Systems Reports Record Fourth Quarter and Full Year 2007
Financial Results"
<https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2008/02/07/1049954/0/en/FLIR-Systems-Reports-Record-Fourth-Quarter-and-Full-Year-2007-Financial-Results.html>
"Cash provided by operations during the quarter was a record $55
million. Cash used during the quarter included $40 million for the
acquisition of Extech Instruments..."
$50 million cash for Extech seems to me to have been a bargain
purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GX8XTG5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
And for table top:
https://www.dyt-ir.com/dytspectrumowl-ca-60-rd-grade-thermal-analyzer-with-macro-lens-product/
On Sun, 6 Oct 2024 01:43:44 +0200, Klaus Vestergaard Kragelund <klauskvik@hotmail.com> wrote:wpdmdl=7228>
On 06-10-2024 00:15, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
On Sat, 05 Oct 2024 07:52:25 -0700, john larkin <JL@gct.com> wrote:
On Fri, 04 Oct 2024 16:07:24 -0700, Jeff Liebermann
<jeffl@cruzio.com>
wrote:
On Thu, 03 Oct 2024 14:46:46 -0700, john larkin
<jl@glen--canyon.com>
wrote:
Extech EX410A DVM Don't Buy
The auto power off is incredibly stupid. I'm going to throw mine
away and get something usable.
What don't you like about the auto power off feature in the EX410A?
It shuts off in the middle of a measurement, and you have to rotate
the very klunky range knob all the way back to OFF and then all the
way back to where it was.
It's OK for one-time measurements I guess, but terrible for bench
experiments.
I agree. That's a serious problem.
Some of the Extech meters have a way to disable auto power off. It's
usually disarmed by holding down one of the buttons while turning on
the meter. I couldn't find anything like that for the EX410A. I'll
look again when I'm more awake.
However, my Uni-T UT-210E does have a way to disable auto power off.
From the user docs at:
<https://meters.uni-trend.com/download/ut210e-user-manual/?
What does that cost? I got a similar Flir unit (a freebie!) but it'sFor IR measurements for handheld, I use Seek Thermal:
- Automatic power-off: when measuring, if the rotary button has not
pulled out in 15 minutes, the instrument will automatically power off
to save energy. In automatic power-off mode, turn rotary button to OFF
and restart the machine, or click any key to wake the instrument.
- Turn off automatic power-off function: press and hold SELECT key,
then power-on start, you will heard 5 buzzing which means automatic
power-off function is cancelled. Turn off and restart the machine,
automatic power-off function will be recovered.
- The buzzer will send out 5 warnings 1 minute before automatic power
off. A long buzz will be heard before power off When automatic power
off function is canceled, you will hear 5 continuous warnings in every
15 minutes.
I just tested it and found that it works as described. Maybe a meter
made by Uni-T might be less stupid. The manual doesn't mention that
every time you turn the meter off, auto power off is re-enabled. You
need to remember to hold down the SELECT button every time you turn it
on. For bench use, I don't see this as much of a problem. For my
use, which involves turning it on/off many times, it's still a
problem.
I mentioned that the UT-210E is hackable. See:
<https://github.com/bdlow/UT210E?tab=readme-ov-file#modify-the-auto- off-and-backlight-times>
The programming looks easy, but providing the adapter needed to
program the DM24C02A EEPROM seems rather messy. For an 8 pin SOIC
package, I would desolder the device and do the editing in an external
programmer. Whether this is worthy of the time and effort involved is
your decision.
Extech was planning to introduce some thermal imagers, so FLIR bought
them to stop it. That's all FLIR really cares about.
I didn't know that. FLIR bought Extech in Oct, 2007. After 17 years
and once FLIR owns the IP (intellectual property), I would have
expected FLIR to sell off Extech in parts and pieces:
<https://www.flir.com/about/about-flir/about-extech/>
"In 2007, Extech was acquired by Teledyne FLIR, a global leader in
innovative infrared thermal imaging solutions."
Well maybe. FLIR did sell off Extech Data System, which made portable
printers in 2009. Looks to me that FLIR had too much cash on hand and
needed to buy something quickly:
"FLIR Systems Reports Record Fourth Quarter and Full Year 2007
Financial Results"
<https://www.globenewswire.com/en/news-release/2008/02/07/1049954/0/ en/FLIR-Systems-Reports-Record-Fourth-Quarter-and-Full-Year-2007- Financial-Results.html>
"Cash provided by operations during the quarter was a record $55
million. Cash used during the quarter included $40 million for the
acquisition of Extech Instruments..."
$50 million cash for Extech seems to me to have been a bargain
purchase.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GX8XTG5/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1? smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
And for table top:
https://www.dyt-ir.com/dytspectrumowl-ca-60-rd-grade-thermal-analyzer- with-macro-lens-product/
mostly useless. The post on the stand limits how big a board you can
image, and it doesn't have an adjustable focus.
The Uni-T 260B handheld thermal imager, with the close-up lens, is
great.
I got their 139C dvm too, and it's fine. It reads about 0.2% low. When
it times out, push some button and it wakes up.
I blew the current fuse on the Extech, couldn't figure out how to
replace it, so I threw it away.
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