• Re: $400 keyboard

    From bitrex@21:1/5 to John Larkin on Mon Mar 25 13:04:40 2024
    On 3/25/2024 12:59 PM, John Larkin wrote:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F51G16

    Bizarre, when I clicked on it said I had bought it at one time, I did
    several years back for the lab PC. Definitely didn't pay that for it, it
    was maybe $40.

    Garbage keyboard, it started mis-firing within about 8 months and the
    key-caps are very difficult to remove without breaking them. All of my
    $4.99 surplus HP keyboards from the Goodwill have lasted way longer.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Larkin@21:1/5 to All on Mon Mar 25 09:59:40 2024
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F51G16

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From bitrex@21:1/5 to John Larkin on Mon Mar 25 13:29:37 2024
    On 3/25/2024 1:20 PM, John Larkin wrote:
    On Mon, 25 Mar 2024 13:04:40 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

    On 3/25/2024 12:59 PM, John Larkin wrote:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F51G16

    Bizarre, when I clicked on it said I had bought it at one time, I did
    several years back for the lab PC. Definitely didn't pay that for it, it
    was maybe $40.

    Garbage keyboard, it started mis-firing within about 8 months and the
    key-caps are very difficult to remove without breaking them. All of my
    $4.99 surplus HP keyboards from the Goodwill have lasted way longer.

    I'm typing on one now. It's OK. I definitely didn't pay $400 for it. I
    need two new keyboards, but not Logitech.

    I think some people (Amazon, ebay, Digikey) have some insanely priced
    stuff, assuming that someone will buy them for some reason.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NTE-ELECTRONICS-NTE27-TRANSISTOR-BJT/dp/B011OWMO1U/>

    I do like to remove keycaps and add some glue or something to disable
    them. Caps lock, insert.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Larkin@21:1/5 to bitrex on Mon Mar 25 10:20:29 2024
    On Mon, 25 Mar 2024 13:04:40 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

    On 3/25/2024 12:59 PM, John Larkin wrote:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F51G16

    Bizarre, when I clicked on it said I had bought it at one time, I did
    several years back for the lab PC. Definitely didn't pay that for it, it
    was maybe $40.

    Garbage keyboard, it started mis-firing within about 8 months and the >key-caps are very difficult to remove without breaking them. All of my
    $4.99 surplus HP keyboards from the Goodwill have lasted way longer.

    I'm typing on one now. It's OK. I definitely didn't pay $400 for it. I
    need two new keyboards, but not Logitech.

    I think some people (Amazon, ebay, Digikey) have some insanely priced
    stuff, assuming that someone will buy them for some reason.

    I do like to remove keycaps and add some glue or something to disable
    them. Caps lock, insert.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Larkin@21:1/5 to bitrex on Mon Mar 25 10:34:04 2024
    On Mon, 25 Mar 2024 13:29:37 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

    On 3/25/2024 1:20 PM, John Larkin wrote:
    On Mon, 25 Mar 2024 13:04:40 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

    On 3/25/2024 12:59 PM, John Larkin wrote:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F51G16

    Bizarre, when I clicked on it said I had bought it at one time, I did
    several years back for the lab PC. Definitely didn't pay that for it, it >>> was maybe $40.

    Garbage keyboard, it started mis-firing within about 8 months and the
    key-caps are very difficult to remove without breaking them. All of my
    $4.99 surplus HP keyboards from the Goodwill have lasted way longer.

    I'm typing on one now. It's OK. I definitely didn't pay $400 for it. I
    need two new keyboards, but not Logitech.

    I think some people (Amazon, ebay, Digikey) have some insanely priced
    stuff, assuming that someone will buy them for some reason.

    <https://www.amazon.com/NTE-ELECTRONICS-NTE27-TRANSISTOR-BJT/dp/B011OWMO1U/>

    I do like to remove keycaps and add some glue or something to disable
    them. Caps lock, insert.


    On the other hand,

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWCFH57N

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Dimiter_Popoff@21:1/5 to John Larkin on Mon Mar 25 23:56:06 2024
    On 3/25/2024 19:20, John Larkin wrote:
    On Mon, 25 Mar 2024 13:04:40 -0400, bitrex <user@example.net> wrote:

    On 3/25/2024 12:59 PM, John Larkin wrote:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001F51G16

    Bizarre, when I clicked on it said I had bought it at one time, I did
    several years back for the lab PC. Definitely didn't pay that for it, it
    was maybe $40.

    Garbage keyboard, it started mis-firing within about 8 months and the
    key-caps are very difficult to remove without breaking them. All of my
    $4.99 surplus HP keyboards from the Goodwill have lasted way longer.

    I'm typing on one now. It's OK. I definitely didn't pay $400 for it. I
    need two new keyboards, but not Logitech.

    I think some people (Amazon, ebay, Digikey) have some insanely priced
    stuff, assuming that someone will buy them for some reason.

    I do like to remove keycaps and add some glue or something to disable
    them. Caps lock, insert.


    I got this one about a year ago. Only tested (not in everyday use yet)
    but feels as good as it could feel.

    https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001377016222.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.124.3fcb1802RILlAS

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Wanderer@21:1/5 to On John Larkin on Tue Mar 26 11:52:43 2024
    On John Larkin wrote:
    On the other hand,
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWCFH57N

    Do you actually use protoboard like this? I usually went directly to PCBs.
    If I used protoboard, I would use the no copper perfboard and just bend
    leads and use jumper wire. The copper on the boards just got in the way.
    For surface mount I liked the 'surfboards' without the leads. Double stick
    tape them to copper clad and use that as a ground plane. I always believed
    I could of designed the surfboards better. For one, they should have had
    copper clad on the back so I could use that as the power plane and then
    double stick tape it to the ground plane.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Larkin@21:1/5 to Wanderer on Tue Mar 26 10:03:35 2024
    On Tue, 26 Mar 2024 11:52:43, Wanderer<dont@emailme.com> wrote:



    On John Larkin wrote:
    On the other hand,
    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BWCFH57N

    But I was impressed by the price.



    Do you actually use protoboard like this?

    No. It's ugly and confusing. I dremel copperclad and use surface-mount adapters, or quick-turn 4-layer PCBs.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/k41hgzd9j20ucey/Z482_PCB_Top.jpg?raw=1

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/2uoeruouhcoz6al/Z482_Can.jpg?raw=1

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/yur6uuhytc7cfcn/D200_BB_4.JPG?raw=1

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/5nlhqy7c8mt2xv3/LDP2.JPG?raw=1

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/zaftysxtgclxj82/Z412_Proto.JPG?raw=1



    I usually went directly to PCBs.
    If I used protoboard, I would use the no copper perfboard and just bend
    leads and use jumper wire. The copper on the boards just got in the way.
    For surface mount I liked the 'surfboards' without the leads. Double stick >tape them to copper clad and use that as a ground plane. I always believed
    I could of designed the surfboards better. For one, they should have had >copper clad on the back so I could use that as the power plane and then >double stick tape it to the ground plane.

    I had a few square feet of copperclad gold plated both sides. I shear
    it up into rectangles to make protos. It's beautiful.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)