https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor.
** Shame about the odd markings.Those aren't shown in the pictures.
Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
** Nope.
Would only act on a short or reverse connected battery.
One cell shorted,
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 20:55:51 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 3:33:49 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
Maybe it's an AC battery? They are very useful for grid storage applications as long as you can control the phase.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor. Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.
I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor.
Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 23:02:03 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:LiIon.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 5:34:04 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 20:55:51 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 3:33:49 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
Maybe it's an AC battery? They are very useful for grid storage applications as long as you can control the phase.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor. Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
It won't do that. It is simply a fuse that prevents too high a current from flowing, such as if you connected the battery backwards.Surely a higher current would flow if the battery became 9 cells instead of 10 because one failed and became zero volts? Ever tried charging a car battery with 14V when it only contains 5 working cells? The others boil.
I'm not sure what this circuit is supposed to do. It doesn't look right to me.It's the (5 hour) charger for a very cheap cordless drill. The input is a 14.4V wall wart. The output is to a pack of NiCad cells. It's worked fine for years, until I can no longer find replacement NiCad cells, so I'm converting the battery packs to
I didn't expect two completely different devices to look identical.So how the fuck am I supposed to tell which one is?
Try an ohmmeter.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 23:59:33 -0000, <jla...@highlandsniptechnology.com> wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 22:47:41 -0000, "Commander Kinsey"
<C...@nospam.com> wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 21:56:55 -0000, jkn <jkn...@nicorp.f9.co.uk> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 9:16:58 PM UTC, Custos Custodum wrote: >>>> On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 12:52:31 -0800 (PST), jkn <jkn...@nicorp.f9.co.uk> >>>> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 8:33:42 PM UTC, Commander Kinsey wrote: >>>> >> https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
What else might that yellow thing be, other than a capacitor?
A thermistor or a VDR, to provide current limiting.
Regarding operation, power diodes tend to have a higher Vf than small >>>> signal diodes or transistor junctions, so once the diode goes into
conduction it produces a large enough voltage to turn on the
transistor and the red LED, indicating that charging is taking place. >>>> The green LED merely indicates that power is applied to the circuit.
My (probably futile) hope was that he might answer it himself,
or at least try to...
I didn't expect two completely different devices to look identical. So how the fuck am I supposed to tell which one is?
Try an ohmmeter.Not so easy when in the middle of a big circuit.
I'm not sure what this circuit is supposed to do. It doesn't look right to me.
Unless NiCads are vastly different to car batteries, one shorted cell makes a hell of a lot more current flow.
Unless NiCads are vastly different to car batteries, one shorted cell
makes a hell of a lot more current flow.
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 00:10:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:LiIon.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 6:08:03 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 23:02:03 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 5:34:04 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Surely a higher current would flow if the battery became 9 cells instead of 10 because one failed and became zero volts? Ever tried charging a car battery with 14V when it only contains 5 working cells? The others boil.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 20:55:51 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 3:33:49 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
Maybe it's an AC battery? They are very useful for grid storage applications as long as you can control the phase.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor. Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
It won't do that. It is simply a fuse that prevents too high a current from flowing, such as if you connected the battery backwards.
I'm not sure what this circuit is supposed to do. It doesn't look right to me.It's the (5 hour) charger for a very cheap cordless drill. The input is a 14.4V wall wart. The output is to a pack of NiCad cells. It's worked fine for years, until I can no longer find replacement NiCad cells, so I'm converting the battery packs to
the right, the resistor to the right of that and the diode across the two. The two resistors and the green LED probably should be on the left, where power comes in. That's all they do is indicate the presence of power.My point is this circuit isn't setting the voltage or limiting current other than through the fuse.It will be limited by the wall wart, which is a basic transformer and diodes. Since it's a 5 hour charge, it won't harm the battery to just keep going.
It appears to be a couple of LEDs that indicate the battery is charging and/or has power.Yes, the battery is basically just charged through the diode and fuse.
The diode will prevent the transistor from ever turning on more than a tiny amount, but with the gain of the transistor the red LED is turned on with a small current in the transistor BE path. It could be more clear if you redraw it with the base on
Yeah it was just a quick sketch to try to understand it.
In any event, it is the wall wart that would seem to be doing all the work of charging the battery, setting the max current and the max voltage just by having a significant series resistance most likely.Ah, you beat me to it.
That's why the fuse is not needed for a shorted cell. Being at 11V instead of 14V isn't enough to make the current jump so much. A short or reversed battery is a different matter.Unless NiCads are vastly different to car batteries, one shorted cell makes a hell of a lot more current flow.
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 01:24:36 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:to LiIon.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 7:47:42 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 00:10:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 6:08:03 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 23:02:03 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 5:34:04 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Surely a higher current would flow if the battery became 9 cells instead of 10 because one failed and became zero volts? Ever tried charging a car battery with 14V when it only contains 5 working cells? The others boil.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 20:55:51 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 3:33:49 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
Maybe it's an AC battery? They are very useful for grid storage applications as long as you can control the phase.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor. Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
It won't do that. It is simply a fuse that prevents too high a current from flowing, such as if you connected the battery backwards.
I'm not sure what this circuit is supposed to do. It doesn't look right to me.It's the (5 hour) charger for a very cheap cordless drill. The input is a 14.4V wall wart. The output is to a pack of NiCad cells. It's worked fine for years, until I can no longer find replacement NiCad cells, so I'm converting the battery packs
on the right, the resistor to the right of that and the diode across the two. The two resistors and the green LED probably should be on the left, where power comes in. That's all they do is indicate the presence of power.It will be limited by the wall wart, which is a basic transformer and diodes. Since it's a 5 hour charge, it won't harm the battery to just keep going.
My point is this circuit isn't setting the voltage or limiting current other than through the fuse.
It appears to be a couple of LEDs that indicate the battery is charging and/or has power.Yes, the battery is basically just charged through the diode and fuse.
The diode will prevent the transistor from ever turning on more than a tiny amount, but with the gain of the transistor the red LED is turned on with a small current in the transistor BE path. It could be more clear if you redraw it with the base
Yeah it was just a quick sketch to try to understand it.
In any event, it is the wall wart that would seem to be doing all the work of charging the battery, setting the max current and the max voltage just by having a significant series resistance most likely.Ah, you beat me to it.
That's why the fuse is not needed for a shorted cell. Being at 11V instead of 14V isn't enough to make the current jump so much. A short or reversed battery is a different matter.Unless NiCads are vastly different to car batteries, one shorted cell makes a hell of a lot more current flow.
THE WALL WART LIMITS THE CURRENT AND PREVENTS ANY ISSUES FROM A SINGLE SHORTED CELL.
Is that clear?Yes, so why have the semiconductor fuse at all?
[other groups reinstated to stop you limiting the audience - others may be reading this in another group]
Oh, you use google groups. My god man get a newsreader program.
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit.
Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current,
you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total.
gnuarm.del...@gmail.com :
= fucking MORON
===========================
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit.
Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current,
you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total.
** What do you think the fucking 1A DIODE in series does ??
Whistle Dixie ???
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 04:30:57 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:packs to LiIon.
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 10:04:23 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 01:24:36 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 7:47:42 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 00:10:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 6:08:03 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 23:02:03 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 5:34:04 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Surely a higher current would flow if the battery became 9 cells instead of 10 because one failed and became zero volts? Ever tried charging a car battery with 14V when it only contains 5 working cells? The others boil.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 20:55:51 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 3:33:49 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
Maybe it's an AC battery? They are very useful for grid storage applications as long as you can control the phase.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor. Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
It won't do that. It is simply a fuse that prevents too high a current from flowing, such as if you connected the battery backwards.
I'm not sure what this circuit is supposed to do. It doesn't look right to me.It's the (5 hour) charger for a very cheap cordless drill. The input is a 14.4V wall wart. The output is to a pack of NiCad cells. It's worked fine for years, until I can no longer find replacement NiCad cells, so I'm converting the battery
base on the right, the resistor to the right of that and the diode across the two. The two resistors and the green LED probably should be on the left, where power comes in. That's all they do is indicate the presence of power.It will be limited by the wall wart, which is a basic transformer and diodes. Since it's a 5 hour charge, it won't harm the battery to just keep going.
My point is this circuit isn't setting the voltage or limiting current other than through the fuse.
It appears to be a couple of LEDs that indicate the battery is charging and/or has power.Yes, the battery is basically just charged through the diode and fuse. >> >> > The diode will prevent the transistor from ever turning on more than a tiny amount, but with the gain of the transistor the red LED is turned on with a small current in the transistor BE path. It could be more clear if you redraw it with the
going to push some unreasonable current though the power pack, so the fuse is needed.Yes, so why have the semiconductor fuse at all?Yeah it was just a quick sketch to try to understand it.
In any event, it is the wall wart that would seem to be doing all the work of charging the battery, setting the max current and the max voltage just by having a significant series resistance most likely.Ah, you beat me to it.
That's why the fuse is not needed for a shorted cell. Being at 11V instead of 14V isn't enough to make the current jump so much. A short or reversed battery is a different matter.Unless NiCads are vastly different to car batteries, one shorted cell makes a hell of a lot more current flow.
THE WALL WART LIMITS THE CURRENT AND PREVENTS ANY ISSUES FROM A SINGLE SHORTED CELL.
Is that clear?
[other groups reinstated to stop you limiting the audience - others may be reading this in another group]
Oh, you use google groups. My god man get a newsreader program.
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit. Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current, you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total. Yeah, that's
Since the battery pack, like any cordless drill, has a semicircle shaped connector, it cannot possibly be connected backwards.
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit.
Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current,
you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total.
** What do you think the fucking 1A DIODE in series does ??
Whistle Dixie ???
LOL Now he doesn't even understand the circuit. Try looking at the schematic and tell me what the diode will do if the battery is connected in reverse?
gnuarm.del...@gmail.com wrote:
= fucking MORON
===========================
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit.
Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current,
you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total.
** What do you think the fucking 1A DIODE in series does ??
Whistle Dixie ???
LOL Now he doesn't even understand the circuit. Try looking at the schematic and tell me what the diode will do if the battery is connected in reverse?** Stop current flow back into the charging circuit.
The battery will charge in reverse and soon go reverse polarity.
The PTC ( aka Polyfuse) will not act.
This is NOT a stand alone charger - but incorporated inside a tool.
So the NiCd pak cannot be easily reverse connected.
gnuarm.del...@gmail.com wrote:
= fucking MORON
===========================
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit.
Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current,
you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total.
** What do you think the fucking 1A DIODE in series does ??
Whistle Dixie ???
LOL Now he doesn't even understand the circuit. Try looking at the schematic and tell me what the diode will do if the battery is connected in reverse?** Stop current flow back into the charging circuit.
The battery will charge in reverse and soon go reverse polarity.
The PTC ( aka Polyfuse) will not act.
On Monday, February 14, 2022 at 1:02:37 PM UTC-8, palli...@gmail.com wrote:
gnuarm.del...@gmail.com wrote:
= fucking MORON
===========================
** Stop current flow back into the charging circuit.** What do you think the fucking 1A DIODE in series does ??
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit.
Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current,
you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total.
Whistle Dixie ???
LOL Now he doesn't even understand the circuit. Try looking at the schematic and tell me what the diode will do if the battery is connected in reverse?
The battery will charge in reverse and soon go reverse polarity.
The PTC ( aka Polyfuse) will not act.
This is NOT a stand alone charger - but incorporated inside a tool.
So the NiCd pak cannot be easily reverse connected.
Still not a good idea to have the battery charging the charger, when power is off.
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
Does anyone know what is going on with this Peeler guy or gal?
Peeler's posts seem very hateful without any purpose whatsoever.
This person reminds me of some of the loonies in c.l.f.
Never heard of a shorted battery. Not all the cells at once.
On Monday, February 14, 2022 at 1:32:58 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:packs to LiIon.
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 04:30:57 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 10:04:23 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote: >> >> On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 01:24:36 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 7:47:42 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 00:10:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 6:08:03 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 23:02:03 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 5:34:04 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Surely a higher current would flow if the battery became 9 cells instead of 10 because one failed and became zero volts? Ever tried charging a car battery with 14V when it only contains 5 working cells? The others boil.
On Sun, 13 Feb 2022 20:55:51 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Sunday, February 13, 2022 at 3:33:49 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've learned from someone on Quora that it's actually a PTC Fuse - a resettable semiconductor fuse.
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor. How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
Maybe it's an AC battery? They are very useful for grid storage applications as long as you can control the phase.
What makes you think that component is a capacitor? I'm assuming you drew the schematic.
The second image in the link shows a brown disk, which I thought was a ceramic capacitor. Looks like it's to stop a busted battery from being overcharged when a cell has died.
It won't do that. It is simply a fuse that prevents too high a current from flowing, such as if you connected the battery backwards.
I'm not sure what this circuit is supposed to do. It doesn't look right to me.It's the (5 hour) charger for a very cheap cordless drill. The input is a 14.4V wall wart. The output is to a pack of NiCad cells. It's worked fine for years, until I can no longer find replacement NiCad cells, so I'm converting the battery
base on the right, the resistor to the right of that and the diode across the two. The two resistors and the green LED probably should be on the left, where power comes in. That's all they do is indicate the presence of power.It will be limited by the wall wart, which is a basic transformer and diodes. Since it's a 5 hour charge, it won't harm the battery to just keep going.
My point is this circuit isn't setting the voltage or limiting current other than through the fuse.
It appears to be a couple of LEDs that indicate the battery is charging and/or has power.Yes, the battery is basically just charged through the diode and fuse. >> >> >> > The diode will prevent the transistor from ever turning on more than a tiny amount, but with the gain of the transistor the red LED is turned on with a small current in the transistor BE path. It could be more clear if you redraw it with the
going to push some unreasonable current though the power pack, so the fuse is needed.Yes, so why have the semiconductor fuse at all?Yeah it was just a quick sketch to try to understand it.
In any event, it is the wall wart that would seem to be doing all the work of charging the battery, setting the max current and the max voltage just by having a significant series resistance most likely.Ah, you beat me to it.
That's why the fuse is not needed for a shorted cell. Being at 11V instead of 14V isn't enough to make the current jump so much. A short or reversed battery is a different matter.Unless NiCads are vastly different to car batteries, one shorted cell makes a hell of a lot more current flow.
THE WALL WART LIMITS THE CURRENT AND PREVENTS ANY ISSUES FROM A SINGLE SHORTED CELL.
Is that clear?
[other groups reinstated to stop you limiting the audience - others may be reading this in another group]
Oh, you use google groups. My god man get a newsreader program.
As I said, when you reverse connect the battery, you double the voltage in the circuit. Rather than having a difference of a couple of volts in the EMF opposing the current, you now have a voltage that is perhaps 10 times that total. Yeah, that's
Since the battery pack, like any cordless drill, has a semicircle shaped connector, it cannot possibly be connected backwards.
Did the guy designing the board know that would be the case?
Even connecting a shorted battery is much worse than a single shorted cell. I don't get why you are arguing this.
gnuarm.delusional MORON rote:
==========================
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor** TOTAL CRAP YOU IDIOT
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
It senses battery charge current.
At a low enough value, the BJT will turn off and the LED go out.
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor** TOTAL CRAP YOU IDIOT
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
It senses battery charge current.
At a low enough value, the BJT will turn off and the LED go out.
You didn't understand a thing I wrote,
gnuarm.delusional MORON rote:
==========================
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor** TOTAL CRAP YOU IDIOT
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
It senses battery charge current.
At a low enough value, the BJT will turn off and the LED go out.
You didn't understand a thing I wrote,** It was full of ABSURD FUCKING CRAP
like you !!!
gnuarm.delusional MORON rote:
==========================
BEWARE : DELUSIONAL SCHIZO
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
** TOTAL CRAP YOU IDIOT
It senses battery charge current.
At a low enough value, the BJT will turn off and the LED go out.
You didn't understand a thing I wrote,** It was full of ABSURD FUCKING CRAP
like you !!!
And yet you can't argue the facts** ROTFL - WHAT FUCKING FACTS ??????
You rabid,nut case loopy notions ARE NOT FACTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Whatever. I used to enjoy trying to reason with you** Whaaaaaaattttt ????
Go fuck your self - you despicable POS asshole.
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
** TOTAL CRAP YOU IDIOT
It senses battery charge current.
At a low enough value, the BJT will turn off and the LED go out.
You didn't understand a thing I wrote,** It was full of ABSURD FUCKING CRAP
like you !!!
And yet you can't argue the facts
Whatever. I used to enjoy trying to reason with you
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 12:34:44 AM UTC-5, palli...@gmail.com wrote:
gnuarm.delusional MORON rote:
==========================
BEWARE : DELUSIONAL SCHIZO
** ROTFL - WHAT FUCKING FACTS ??????
The reality is the 1 amp diode is there to limit the current through the transistor
base and so the collector which feeds the LED. So the 1amp diode is limiting the LED current.
** It was full of ABSURD FUCKING CRAP** TOTAL CRAP YOU IDIOT
It senses battery charge current.
At a low enough value, the BJT will turn off and the LED go out.
You didn't understand a thing I wrote,
like you !!!
And yet you can't argue the facts
You rabid,nut case loopy notions ARE NOT FACTS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Whatever. I used to enjoy trying to reason with you** Whaaaaaaattttt ????
Go fuck your self - you despicable POS asshole.
Yuuuupppp. Of his meds again. Or maybe he's on the meths again? Hard to tell. But it is clear he is totally incapable of discussing anything rationally. I wonder how he keeps a roof over his head?
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow
disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the
output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high
current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its
resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance
to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through
the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which
they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room
temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause
them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see
the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it
DOES flow through the capacitors
see https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage
divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it
down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it
is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors.
Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the
top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the
input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference
is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few
tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor,
with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25 milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R
= V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 /
(2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a
larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety,
and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from
holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years.
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 2:01:20 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:expensive which is why the dangerous units are sold.
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote: >> > On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow
disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the
output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high
current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its
resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance
to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through
the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which
they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room
temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause
them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see
the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it
DOES flow through the capacitors
see
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage
divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it
down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it
is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum
voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors.
Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the
top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the
input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference
is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few
tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor,
with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever >> > the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25
milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R
= V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 /
(2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a
larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety,
and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting
resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from
holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see
https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years.
So have nuclear reactors. Both are more expensive than what the Chinese suppliers pay for these cheap and dangerous power supplies. Switched power converters are significantly more expensive. Even a properly designed transformerless supply is more
Don't forget to check my spelling.
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 20:19:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:expensive which is why the dangerous units are sold.
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 2:01:20 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow
disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the
output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high
current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its >> >> resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance >> >> to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through
the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which
they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room
temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause >> >> them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see
the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it
DOES flow through the capacitors
see
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage
divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it
down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it >> > is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum
voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors.
Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the
top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the
input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference >> > is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few
tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor,
with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever
the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25
milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R >> > = V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 / >> > (2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a
larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety,
and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting
resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from
holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see
https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years.
So have nuclear reactors. Both are more expensive than what the Chinese suppliers pay for these cheap and dangerous power supplies. Switched power converters are significantly more expensive. Even a properly designed transformerless supply is more
Don't forget to check my spelling.I prefer cheap to safe.
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 2:05:50 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:expensive which is why the dangerous units are sold.
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 20:19:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 2:01:20 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote: >> >> On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
So have nuclear reactors. Both are more expensive than what the Chinese suppliers pay for these cheap and dangerous power supplies. Switched power converters are significantly more expensive. Even a properly designed transformerless supply is moreOn Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow
disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the
output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high
current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its >> >> >> resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance >> >> >> to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through
the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which
they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room
temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause >> >> >> them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see
the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it
DOES flow through the capacitors
see
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage
divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it
down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it >> >> > is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum
voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors.
Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the
top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the
input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference >> >> > is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few
tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor,
with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever
the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25
milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R >> >> > = V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 / >> >> > (2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a
larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety,
and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting
resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from
holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see
https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years. >> >
I prefer cheap to safe.
Don't forget to check my spelling.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:expensive which is why the dangerous units are sold.
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 2:05:50 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 20:19:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 2:01:20 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave >> >> > Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow >> >> >> disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the >> >> >> output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high >> >> >> current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its
resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance
to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through >> >> >> the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which >> >> >> they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room
temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause
them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see >> >> >> the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it >> >> > DOES flow through the capacitors
see
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage
divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it >> >> > down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it
is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum >> >> > voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors.
Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the >> >> > top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the >> >> > input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference
is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few >> >> > tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor, >> >> > with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever
the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25 >> >> > milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R
= V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 /
(2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a >> >> > larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety, >> >> > and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting >> >> > resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from >> >> > holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see
https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years.
So have nuclear reactors. Both are more expensive than what the Chinese suppliers pay for these cheap and dangerous power supplies. Switched power converters are significantly more expensive. Even a properly designed transformerless supply is more
I prefer cheap to safe.
Don't forget to check my spelling.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:more expensive which is why the dangerous units are sold.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 2:05:50 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 20:19:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 2:01:20 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave >> >> >> > Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow >> >> >> >> disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the >> >> >> >> output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high >> >> >> >> current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its
resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance
to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through >> >> >> >> the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which >> >> >> >> they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room
temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause
them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see >> >> >> >> the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it >> >> >> > DOES flow through the capacitors
see
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage
divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it >> >> >> > down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it
is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum >> >> >> > voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors.
Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the >> >> >> > top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the >> >> >> > input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference
is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few >> >> >> > tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor, >> >> >> > with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever
the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25 >> >> >> > milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R
= V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 /
(2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a >> >> >> > larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety, >> >> >> > and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting >> >> >> > resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from >> >> >> > holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see
https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years.
So have nuclear reactors. Both are more expensive than what the Chinese suppliers pay for these cheap and dangerous power supplies. Switched power converters are significantly more expensive. Even a properly designed transformerless supply is
Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.I prefer cheap to safe.
Don't forget to check my spelling.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:more expensive which is why the dangerous units are sold.
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 2:05:50 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 20:19:47 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, February 15, 2022 at 2:01:20 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Tue, 15 Feb 2022 06:04:34 -0000, Clare Snyder <cl...@snyder.on.ca> wrote:
On Mon, 14 Feb 2022 15:13:04 -0800, dpl...@coop.radagast.org (Dave
Platt) wrote:
In article <op.1hjp1...@ryzen.lan>,
Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
https://imgur.com/a/b8l5qKQ
Look at the circuit diagram. The positive of the battery is only connected through a capacitor.
How can a capacitor possibly pass DC current to allow the battery to charge?
I don't believe that it could.
My guess is that schematic misinterprets the nature of the yellow
disc. I suspect that it's not a capacitor at all, but is a
positive-temperature-coefficient thermistor - a "soft fuse". If the
output (to the battery) is accidentally short-circuited, the high
current flow through the PTC will cause it to heat up, increasing its
resistance, causing it to heat up even faster, causing its resistance
to increase even more... and thus limiting the current flow through
the short circuit. These PTCs usually have a "hold current" (which
they will allow to pass for an unlimited amount of time, at room >> >> >> >> temperature) and a "trip current" which will heat them enough to cause
them to limit the current.
Since we don't have a profile view of this component and can't see
the markings, I can't tell for sure.
It is called "resonant charging" and the current is pulses - so it
DOES flow through the capacitors
see
https://www.researchgate.net/publication/327260616/figure/download/fig2/AS:664444522733570@1535427327725/Lossless-Resonant-Charging-Circuit.png
Nowhere in there does the current for the load have to pass through a capacitor.
Or it could be a TPS as described here:
A transformerless power supply (TPS) is basically just a voltage >> >> >> > divider that takes the 115 or 220 VAC from your wall and divides it
down to whatever voltage you want. If that voltage needs to be DC, it
is rectified through a few diodes, and maybe regulated to a maximum
voltage but we’ll get to that in a minute.
Normally, DC voltage dividers are made with a pair of resistors. >> >> >> > Combined, they define the current flowing through the path, and the
top resistor can then be chosen to drop the difference between the
input voltage and the desired output. If, in our case, that difference
is some one or two hundred volts, even if it only has to pass a few
tens of milliamps, that resistor is going to get hot fast.
A better component to use in the top of the divider is a capacitor,
with its reactance chosen to give the desired “resistance†at whatever
the mains frequency is where you live. For example, say you want 25
milliamps out at 5 V, and you’re in America and need to drop 110 V. R
= V / I = 4,400 O. Using the reactance of a capacitor, that’s C = 1 /
(2 * pi * 60 Hz * 4400) = 0.6 µF. If you need more current, use a
larger capacitor, and vice-versa. It’s that easy!
A fully elaborated TPS design requires a few more parts. For safety,
and to limit inrush current, a fuse and a one-watt current-limiting
resistor on the input are a good idea. A large-value discharge
resistor in parallel with the reactive capacitor will keep it from
holding its high voltage and shocking you when the circuit is
unplugged.
see
https://hackaday.com/2017/04/04/the-shocking-truth-about-transformerless-power-supplies/
But nowadays they're electronic. Switched mode has been around for years.
So have nuclear reactors. Both are more expensive than what the Chinese suppliers pay for these cheap and dangerous power supplies. Switched power converters are significantly more expensive. Even a properly designed transformerless supply is
Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.I prefer cheap to safe.
Don't forget to check my spelling.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videosI've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless unitsThey consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:buys cell phone chargers by their efficiency.
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they
consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out. The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb significantly less efficient. No one
Being current limited is of no utility in this case. When that cheap capacitor in the cheap power supply fails, the output becomes high voltage frying devices and people. It only takes a few mA to stop the heart.
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:buys cell phone chargers by their efficiency.
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they
consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out. The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb significantly less efficient. No one
Being current limited is of no utility in this case.
When that cheap capacitor in the cheap power supply fails, the output becomes high voltage frying devices and people.
It only takes a few mA to stop the heart.
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they
consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
No one buys cell phone chargers by their efficiency.
Being current limited is of no utility in this case. When that cheap capacitor in the cheap power supply fails, the output becomes high voltage frying devices and people. It only takes a few mA to stop the heart.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they >> > consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% orSo does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
where are you getting 20% ?
No one buys cell phone chargers by their efficiency.Noone wants one that runs smoking hot. Everyone wants an efficient phone charger.
Being current limited is of no utility in this case. When that cheap capacitor in the cheap power supply fails, the output becomes high voltage frying devices and people. It only takes a few mA to stop the heart.What are you on about now?
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:you may end up a dead duck.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out the feet,
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they
consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
So does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
where are you getting 20% ?
No one buys cell phone chargers by their efficiency.
Noone wants one that runs smoking hot. Everyone wants an efficient phone charger.
Being current limited is of no utility in this case. When that cheap capacitor in the cheap power supply fails, the output becomes high voltage frying devices and people. It only takes a few mA to stop the heart.
What are you on about now?
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 7:31:04 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they >> >> > consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
15W phone chargers are high end and typically cost a lot more and are built well. The cheap phone chargers are the ones that have the capacitive dropper design.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% orSo does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
where are you getting 20% ?
The resistors added to a capacitive dropper.
No one buys cell phone chargers by their efficiency.Noone wants one that runs smoking hot. Everyone wants an efficient phone charger.
Lol. So how do you check that? Light bulbs have specific labeling on the package to tell you how many watts it uses and how many lumens it produces. Granted, many don't have a clue as to how to use those numbers, but for those who do they are there.
The best you will find on a cell phone charger is the amps drawn from the power line which is always inflated in my experience. I guess that's a safety thing? Dunno, but it is worthless for calculating efficiency.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:you may end up a dead duck.
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out the feet,
I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 12:13:35 -0000, Jasen Betts <usenet@revmaps.no-ip.org> wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they >>>> > consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
A phone battery is 4V. 15 W would be charging it at 4A, you'd get an explosion.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
So does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
It doesn't save money. I bought Cree (shittest company ever) bulbs, they lasted 1 month due to getting so fucking hot they couldn't be touched comfortably for even half a second. I sent them back 5 times, costing them a fortune.
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 11:43:59 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:you may end up a dead duck.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote: >> >> On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out the feet,
I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
Yes, willfully ignorant. Not only do you appear to ignore safety advice,
you don't understand the difference between a "breaker" and a GFCI.
A GFCI will protect you if the current is flowing through you to ground, but not if you are in a live circuit with both hands, one on each conductor.
Yes, you are not a girl. Girls can understand science, engineering and medicine.
On 2022-02-18, Commander Kinsey <CK1@nospam.com> wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 12:13:35 -0000, Jasen Betts <usenet@revmaps.no-ip.org> wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote: >>>>> On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units
waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they >>>>> > consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the
current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
A phone battery is 4V. 15 W would be charging it at 4A, you'd get an explosion.
the phone "charger" label says 15W but when I measured it was closer to 13w, I guess
that's why it hasn't exploded yet.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
So does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
It doesn't save money. I bought Cree (shittest company ever) bulbs, they lasted 1 month due to getting so fucking hot they couldn't be touched comfortably for even half a second. I sent them back 5 times, costing them a fortune.
Saves the manufacturer money. they can achieve brihtness while using
less material, also they can sell more if they don't last too long.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 17:56:41 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:feet, you may end up a dead duck.
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 11:43:59 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out the
I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
Yes, willfully ignorant. Not only do you appear to ignore safety advice,Safety advice is for the weak and frail scaredycats.
you don't understand the difference between a "breaker" and a GFCI.They tend to go together, you either have them both in the box, or they're part of the same unit.
A GFCI will protect you if the current is flowing through you to ground, but not if you are in a live circuit with both hands, one on each conductor.That is very unlikely to happen, although I've done it and I'm still here.
Yes, you are not a girl. Girls can understand science, engineering and medicine.They also shriek at the slightest pain.
On Saturday, February 19, 2022 at 1:48:58 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:feet, you may end up a dead duck.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 17:56:41 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 11:43:59 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote: >> >> On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out the
They tend to go together, you either have them both in the box, or they're part of the same unit.I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
Yes, willfully ignorant. Not only do you appear to ignore safety advice, >> Safety advice is for the weak and frail scaredycats.
you don't understand the difference between a "breaker" and a GFCI.
Complete rubbish. I have several houses, all with GFCI and none have it in the circuit breaker panels. GFCI outlets can protect the entire string of outlets.
https://www.google.com/search?q=GFCI+outlets
A GFCI will protect you if the current is flowing through you to ground, but not if you are in a live circuit with both hands, one on each conductor.That is very unlikely to happen, although I've done it and I'm still here.
Unfortunately...
Yes, you are not a girl. Girls can understand science, engineering and medicine.They also shriek at the slightest pain.
Certainly they shriek at an attempt to communicate with you.
I'm done here. It is seldom that even in s.e.d anyone appears to be as willfully ignorant as you.
On Sat, 19 Feb 2022 19:12:36 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:feet, you may end up a dead duck.
On Saturday, February 19, 2022 at 1:48:58 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote: >>> On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 17:56:41 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote: >>>
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 11:43:59 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out the
They tend to go together, you either have them both in the box, or they're part of the same unit.I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
Yes, willfully ignorant. Not only do you appear to ignore safety advice, >>> Safety advice is for the weak and frail scaredycats.
you don't understand the difference between a "breaker" and a GFCI.
Complete rubbish. I have several houses, all with GFCI and none have it in the circuit breaker panels. GFCI outlets can protect the entire string of outlets.
https://www.google.com/search?q=GFCI+outlets
Just because you're too stupid to install it in the fusebox doesn't mean they don't exist. The entire UK has one of these (apart from houses like mine which have fuses):
https://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ZJIQhmgWwwoj/2p-25A-30mA-Hyundai-RCCB-Residual-Current-Circuit-Breaker-ELCB.jpg
Protects against overcurrent and earth leakage.
Perhaps the USA is behind the times, perhaps you don't realise there are countries, better countries, outside of yours.
Unfortunately...A GFCI will protect you if the current is flowing through you to ground, but not if you are in a live circuit with both hands, one on each conductor.That is very unlikely to happen, although I've done it and I'm still here. >>
It proves it's not dangerous.
Yes, you are not a girl. Girls can understand science, engineering and medicine.They also shriek at the slightest pain.
Certainly they shriek at an attempt to communicate with you.
They shriek at everything.
I'm done here. It is seldom that even in s.e.d anyone appears to be as willfully ignorant as you.
Then why the fuck did you reply? That's utterly childish, replying THEN killfiling me. No doubt you've got one of those shit killfiles that doesn't block responses to me, so you'll read this when someone else replies.
On Sat, 19 Feb 2022 21:54:44 -0000, Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:the feet, you may end up a dead duck.
On Sat, 19 Feb 2022 19:12:36 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 19, 2022 at 1:48:58 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 17:56:41 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 11:43:59 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out
Safety advice is for the weak and frail scaredycats.I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
Yes, willfully ignorant. Not only do you appear to ignore safety advice,
you don't understand the difference between a "breaker" and a GFCI. >>> They tend to go together, you either have them both in the box, or they're part of the same unit.
Complete rubbish. I have several houses, all with GFCI and none have it in the circuit breaker panels. GFCI outlets can protect the entire string of outlets.
https://www.google.com/search?q=GFCI+outlets
Just because you're too stupid to install it in the fusebox doesn't mean they don't exist. The entire UK has one of these (apart from houses like mine which have fuses):
https://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ZJIQhmgWwwoj/2p-25A-30mA-Hyundai-RCCB-Residual-Current-Circuit-Breaker-ELCB.jpg
Protects against overcurrent and earth leakage.
Perhaps the USA is behind the times, perhaps you don't realise there are countries, better countries, outside of yours.
A GFCI will protect you if the current is flowing through you to ground, but not if you are in a live circuit with both hands, one on each conductor.That is very unlikely to happen, although I've done it and I'm still here.
Unfortunately...
It proves it's not dangerous.
Yes, you are not a girl. Girls can understand science, engineering and medicine.They also shriek at the slightest pain.
Certainly they shriek at an attempt to communicate with you.
They shriek at everything.
I'm done here. It is seldom that even in s.e.d anyone appears to be as willfully ignorant as you.
Then why the fuck did you reply? That's utterly childish, replying THEN killfiling me. No doubt you've got one of those shit killfiles that doesn't block responses to me, so you'll read this when someone else replies.Like me.
On Saturday, February 19, 2022 at 4:57:01 PM UTC-5, Kimberly Richards wrote:the feet, you may end up a dead duck.
On Sat, 19 Feb 2022 21:54:44 -0000, Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
On Sat, 19 Feb 2022 19:12:36 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, February 19, 2022 at 1:48:58 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 17:56:41 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 11:43:59 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 15:21:24 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 18, 2022 at 2:06:28 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 14:51:37 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 4:56:32 AM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:I've had several 240V shocks. That's all they are, a shock. Your muscles jump. Big fucking deal.
On Thu, 17 Feb 2022 06:24:16 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Wednesday, February 16, 2022 at 11:53:34 PM UTC-5, Commander Kinsey wrote:Actually I have an old one which is just a capacitor dropper. The capacitor recently exploded so I opened it up and replaced it with a larger one.
On Wed, 16 Feb 2022 15:28:11 -0000, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the current.
The lightbulbs are sold through retail establishments that expect a level of quality and safety.I'm not stupid enough to buy anything through an expensive retail establishment.
A typical wall wart isn't and doesn't regulate anything very well. The junk that are sold on the Internet are literally death traps. Watch one of Big Clive's tear-downs on various products. He finds dangerous stuff all the time.I've watched a lot of his stuff, but I've never had a problem with a cheapo Chinese USB supply like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/303876456847
https://www.youtube.com/c/Bigclive/videos
Mind you I'm not scared of electricity.
Yeah, sure. Enjoy.
Wow! It's not often you find people who are so ignorant. You didn't have the electricity pass through your heart. If it goes in one finger and out another on the same hand, no big deal, but in one hand and out the other or in a hand and out
Like me.Safety advice is for the weak and frail scaredycats.I've had it in all directions. In one hand the hand gets warm, no muscles in your hand. One hand to the other, your arms do a Mexican wave, it's quite funny. Not painful at all.
What is the lethal current, 10 mA or so?You're the ignorant one, it's 80mA (and only with a weak heart), why do you think breakers trip at 30mA? Which by the way means you cannot die if you have breakers. I have fuses because I'm not a girl.
You strike me as a particularly ignorant person. Willfully ignorant, you might say. Is that right?
Yes, willfully ignorant. Not only do you appear to ignore safety advice,
you don't understand the difference between a "breaker" and a GFCI.They tend to go together, you either have them both in the box, or they're part of the same unit.
Complete rubbish. I have several houses, all with GFCI and none have it in the circuit breaker panels. GFCI outlets can protect the entire string of outlets.
https://www.google.com/search?q=GFCI+outlets
Just because you're too stupid to install it in the fusebox doesn't mean they don't exist. The entire UK has one of these (apart from houses like mine which have fuses):
https://image.made-in-china.com/2f0j00ZJIQhmgWwwoj/2p-25A-30mA-Hyundai-RCCB-Residual-Current-Circuit-Breaker-ELCB.jpg
Protects against overcurrent and earth leakage.
Perhaps the USA is behind the times, perhaps you don't realise there are countries, better countries, outside of yours.
A GFCI will protect you if the current is flowing through you to ground, but not if you are in a live circuit with both hands, one on each conductor.That is very unlikely to happen, although I've done it and I'm still here.
Unfortunately...
It proves it's not dangerous.
Yes, you are not a girl. Girls can understand science, engineering and medicine.They also shriek at the slightest pain.
Certainly they shriek at an attempt to communicate with you.
They shriek at everything.
I'm done here. It is seldom that even in s.e.d anyone appears to be as willfully ignorant as you.
Then why the fuck did you reply? That's utterly childish, replying THEN killfiling me. No doubt you've got one of those shit killfiles that doesn't block responses to me, so you'll read this when someone else replies.
That shows how stupid he is. I never said anything about kill filing him. I just said I won't be responding to him. He has to be one of the most stupid people here and that includes the likes of DLUNU and Cursitor Dumb.
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 20:08:31 -0000, Jasen Betts <usenet@revmaps.no-ip.org> wrote:
On 2022-02-18, Commander Kinsey <CK1@nospam.com> wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 12:13:35 -0000, Jasen Betts <usenet@revmaps.no-ip.org> wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote: >>>>>> On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units >>>>>> > waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they >>>>>> > consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the >>>>>> > current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
A phone battery is 4V. 15 W would be charging it at 4A, you'd get an explosion.
the phone "charger" label says 15W but when I measured it was closer to 13w, I guess
that's why it hasn't exploded yet.
Even my high spec 18650 cells recommend charging at 1.5A. And those aren't enclosed in a phone.
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or
more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
So does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
It doesn't save money. I bought Cree (shittest company ever) bulbs, they lasted 1 month due to getting so fucking hot they couldn't be touched comfortably for even half a second. I sent them back 5 times, costing them a fortune.
Saves the manufacturer money. they can achieve brihtness while using
less material, also they can sell more if they don't last too long.
They won't sell more. They either get them returned costing them
money, or the customer never uses that brand again.
On 2022-02-19, Commander Kinsey <CK1@nospam.com> wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 20:08:31 -0000, Jasen Betts <usenet@revmaps.no-ip.org> wrote:
On 2022-02-18, Commander Kinsey <CK1@nospam.com> wrote:
On Fri, 18 Feb 2022 12:13:35 -0000, Jasen Betts <usenet@revmaps.no-ip.org> wrote:
On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.deletethisbit@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 17, 2022 at 7:01:03 AM UTC-5, Jasen Betts wrote: >>>>>>> On 2022-02-17, Rick C <gnuarm.del...@gmail.com> wrote:
They consume a few watts, tens at most. not a lot of power.Never looked inside one in great detail. I assumed they were switched mode, since a £4 LED bulb from China is. Never tried looking inside a tiny one, like a plug in USB PSU.
Yes, exactly. That's why it was disingenuous to post about the switched supplies. Saying, "nowadays they're electronic" would appear to be saying the transformerless supplies are not in use which is not correct.
The light bulb has to be a switched device. Transformerless units >>>>>>> > waste a fair amount of power. Lightbulbs need to be efficient as they >>>>>>> > consume a fair amount of power and they also need to regulate the >>>>>>> > current.
a capacitive dropper is inherently current limited.
"A few watts" in most light bulbs is a lot more than a cell phone charger puts out.
Phone charger 2.5W to 15W. LED lamp 3W to 30W. Same ballpark.
A phone battery is 4V. 15 W would be charging it at 4A, you'd get an explosion.
the phone "charger" label says 15W but when I measured it was closer to 13w, I guess
that's why it hasn't exploded yet.
Even my high spec 18650 cells recommend charging at 1.5A. And those aren't enclosed in a phone.
Well it's a fast charger. so it charges at about 1C (which seems to
also be the fast-charge rate for lithium ion)
The purpose of LED light bulbs is to save power. Giving up 20% or >>>>>> more to the dissipative elements in a dropper makes the bulb
significantly less efficient.
So does overdriving the LEDs, but they do that to save money.
It doesn't save money. I bought Cree (shittest company ever) bulbs, they lasted 1 month due to getting so fucking hot they couldn't be touched comfortably for even half a second. I sent them back 5 times, costing them a fortune.
Saves the manufacturer money. they can achieve brihtness while using
less material, also they can sell more if they don't last too long.
They won't sell more. They either get them returned costing them
money, or the customer never uses that brand again.
Maybe if the customer can remember when they purchased the lamp,
and notices the gradual dimming. pretty much the only place that has
high efficiency LED lamps is Dubai.
On 2022-02-19, Commander Kinsey <C...@nospam.com> wrote:
Even my high spec 18650 cells recommend charging at 1.5A. And those aren't enclosed in a phone.Well it's a fast charger. so it charges at about 1C (which seems to
also be the fast-charge rate for lithium ion)
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