• Purpose of fuse in televlision

    From micky@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 12 20:55:09 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the
    power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor
    plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power
    supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It
    gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an
    extra time, but that's not so bad.
































    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

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  • From micky@21:1/5 to NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com on Sat Mar 12 21:20:49 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 20:55:09 +0200, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit >breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor >plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power >supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    It seems to be 8 amps. I didn't think they used them that big, but
    otoh it's 40amp led screen tv.

    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    Tomorrow we can make some phone calls trying to find a place closer than
    60 miles, but you know as well as I that even if the ad says
    Electronicsm they probably won't have it, and real reapir stores are few
    and far between. And I don't want to spend tomorrow night here. I want
    to fix this and be done.

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It >gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an >extra time, but that's not so bad.

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  • From danny burstein@21:1/5 to micky on Sat Mar 12 19:32:24 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In <5esp2hpfn7o6snpjv8fr9tr1b01v6jvk0l@4ax.com> micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> writes:
    [snip]

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    Tomorrow we can make some phone calls trying to find a place closer than
    60 miles, but you know as well as I that even if the ad says
    Electronicsm they probably won't have it, and real reapir stores are few
    and far between. And I don't want to spend tomorrow night here. I want
    to fix this and be done.

    About 3 decades (obligatory where does the time go?) ago my
    large (for the time) Sony tv just died. I took it apart
    and yes, there was a fuse in the power supply that had blown.

    It was a simple automotive type ACG glass fuse, so the next
    time I was near a car supply place I picked up a set of them.

    I figured there was enough of a chance this was a "once off"
    fuse failure that (aside from my time...) it was worth
    spending $2.50 or so to check it out.

    (Alas, that second fuse blew, too).

    Anyway, that might be an option for you. Depending on
    how the wiring posts are, you might be able to
    hook up a similar automotive fuse holder and, well,
    fuse... and see what happens. Probably $10 or so
    of parts nowadays.


    --
    _____________________________________________________
    Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
    dannyb@panix.com
    [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

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  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 12 19:58:22 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In article <5esp2hpfn7o6snpjv8fr9tr1b01v6jvk0l@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07 @fmguy.com says...

    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 20:55:09 +0200, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit >breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor >plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power >supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    It seems to be 8 amps. I didn't think they used them that big, but
    otoh it's 40amp led screen tv.

    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    Tomorrow we can make some phone calls trying to find a place closer than
    60 miles, but you know as well as I that even if the ad says
    Electronicsm they probably won't have it, and real reapir stores are few
    and far between. And I don't want to spend tomorrow night here. I want
    to fix this and be done.

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world, >supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It >gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would >not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or >not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come >back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an >extra time, but that's not so bad.

    You cannot mean 40 amps, surely? Even at only 110 volts that is still
    quite a powerful heater! 40 inches, perhaps?

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  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to micky on Sat Mar 12 11:54:18 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an extra time, but that's not so bad.

    There could be a voltage limiter, like a MOV just past that fuse that
    shorts out to blow the fuse, thus keeping surge voltage from frying the
    TV. Such a device may need to be replaced also to retain that
    protection, or, if shorted, it would have to be disconnected.

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  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 09:08:17 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote
    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the
    power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor
    plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power
    supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    It seems to be 8 amps.

    You sure it isnt 3 amps ?

    I didn't think they used them that big,

    That is unusually high for a TV unless its a plasma

    but otoh it's 40amp led screen tv.

    Presumably you mean 40 inch.

    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    Tomorrow we can make some phone calls trying to find a place closer than
    60 miles, but you know as well as I that even if the ad says
    Electronicsm they probably won't have it, and real reapir stores are few
    and far between. And I don't want to spend tomorrow night here. I want
    to fix this and be done.

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It
    gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an
    extra time, but that's not so bad.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rod Speed@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 09:04:20 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse:

    To stop the power supply catching fire if the TV is plugged into 240V
    and to protect the TV against a surge and to protect against some
    fool who has chosen to use some fencing wire in the house fuse.

    To keep a short circuit in the power supply (or other part of the tv)
    from pulling too much current, melting the wire's insulation, and
    starting a fire?

    Starting a fire in the power supply.

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV from surges.

    That too. It doesn't have just one purpose, like most fuses.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    No, both types are available.

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts.(It
    gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a coldshort
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    Wrong. It is what is catching fire that matters.

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) andcome
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city.

    Or get real radical and order it on ebay or amazon.

    What are the odds it will fail in the next 3 week?

    Impossible to say when a surge may happen.

    That requires putting the tv back togehteran extra time, but that's not
    so bad.

    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    But presumably can still get ebay and amazon deliverys.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Phil Allison@21:1/5 to micky on Sat Mar 12 15:11:26 2022
    micky wrote:
    ==========


    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage.


    ** The US, Canada and Japan use 100 or 120 VAC power at 60Hz.
    So where are YOU ?

    Can this 40 inch set happily use 50 Hz power and pick up the local broadcast format ?
    Has it ever worked there?


    .... Phil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 12 23:39:08 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:08:17 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
    Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

    <FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

    --
    MrTurnip@down.the.farm about senile Rodent Speed:
    "This is like having a conversation with someone with brain damage."
    MID: <ps10v9$uo2$1@gioia.aioe.org>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Peeler@21:1/5 to All on Sat Mar 12 23:40:43 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:04:20 +1100, cantankerous trolling geezer Rodent
    Speed, the auto-contradicting senile sociopath, blabbered, again:

    <FLUSH the abnormal trolling senile cretin's latest trollshit unread>

    --
    Pomegranate Bastard addressing the trolling senile cretin from Oz:
    "Surely you can find an Australian group to pollute rather than posting
    your unwanted guff here."
    MID: <c1pqvgte5ldlo1rn3fpl7igtg4h8i9mk7p@4ax.com>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clifford Heath@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 12:42:35 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 13/3/22 5:55 am, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse:

    To stop your house burning down.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.

    It won't be hard to find another fuse, but you might have to pay for
    postage.

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    The fuse will usually blow after something else in the TV has failed. If
    you bridge the fuse, it will fail harder.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    The transformer has limited amperage because if you overload it, it will
    burn out or catch fire.

    Get a proper fuse. Buy two, because the first one will probably blow due
    to the fault that blew the first one. Use the second after you've fixed
    that fault.

    CH

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  • From Phil Allison@21:1/5 to Clifford Heath is Blind on Sat Mar 12 18:16:57 2022
    Clifford Heath is Blind wrote:

    =====================
    On 13/3/22 5:55 am, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse:
    To stop your house burning down.

    ** Plenty of homes have burned down due to TV set fires that did not blow the fuse.


    The fuse will usually blow after something else in the TV has failed. If
    you bridge the fuse, it will fail harder.

    ** Huh ?

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,

    The transformer has limited amperage because if you overload it, it will
    burn out or catch fire.

    ** Most have a thermal fuse inside them.

    Get a proper fuse. Buy two, because the first one will probably blow due
    to the fault that blew the first one. Use the second after you've fixed
    that fault.


    ** You did see how the "110V" set had been somehow connected to "220V" ??

    Massive over voltage on the PSU, electros become voltage clamps and MOSFETs go phufft.


    ...... Phil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Phil Allison@21:1/5 to Clifford the Chirping Cricket on Sat Mar 12 21:41:35 2022
    Clifford the Chirping Cricket wrote:
    ==============================

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >>> power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor >>> plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse:

    To stop your house burning down.

    ** Plenty of homes have burned down due to TV set fires that did not blow the fuse.

    The question is,

    ** No it isn't.

    You reply was WRONG.


    how many have *not* burnt down due to a TV set fire
    that didn't happen because the fuse blew?

    ** Too many hypothetical negatives for me....

    A fuse in your TV isn't going to stop a meteorite hitting your house either.

    ** That POS takes the "straw man" fallacy to a whole new height.


    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,

    Get a proper fuse. Buy two, because the first one will probably blow due >> to the fault that blew the first one. Use the second after you've fixed
    that fault.

    ** You did see how the "110V" set had been somehow connected to "220V" ??

    Massive over voltage on the PSU, electros become voltage clamps and MOSFETs go phufft.

    Yep, exactly why I told him not to hope a replacement fuse would fix it.

    ** My god, you are one desperate fucking wanker.

    Blowing the shit out of a SMPSU with double supply voltage not a FAULT.

    Maybe you think crashing your car into a tree is a "breakdown" ??



    ...... Phil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Phil Allison@21:1/5 to micky mouse the moron on Sat Mar 12 22:01:05 2022
    micky mouse the moron wrote:

    ======================

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just
    blow the fuse over and over,

    ** Plus itself too - MOVs explode and shatter.

    and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that
    allow enough current to start a fire?

    ** No. But would trip your breaker.



    ...... Phil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From micky@21:1/5 to bobnospam@gmail.com on Sun Mar 13 07:52:35 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the
    power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor
    plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power
    supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It
    gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an
    extra time, but that's not so bad.

    There could be a voltage limiter, like a MOV just past that fuse that
    shorts out to blow the fuse, thus keeping surge voltage from frying the
    TV. Such a device may need to be replaced also to retain that
    protection, or, if shorted, it would have to be disconnected.

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just
    blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that
    allow enough current to start a fire?

    The board has a fee parts that might be a MOV.
    They are labeled CY101..., TH101..., UA101 and CP101. There is only
    one of the last two.
    Are any of these usual abbreviation for a MOV? I've been looking
    online for a list of abbreviations that includes these, no luck so far,
    quicker to ask you, Bob (and others).

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    I'm the second or third person she's had look at it. It's too big and
    heavy to take to a shop, so if I bypass the fuse and fail to note a
    shorted MOV and it gets worse, I think she will just take her loss and
    buy one.


    References to previous thread. The TV has HDMI input (3 interfaces!),
    but when she lived in Baltimore she was streaming from Amazon, and I
    think that was her current plan. Although I don't understand how. The
    manual says "INPUT Repeatedly press to change the source you are
    viewing (ANT/CABLE, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, ColorStream
    HD1, ColorStream HD2, HDMI 1, HDMI 2, HDMI 3, PC)."

    Colorstream is their name for separate red, blue, whatever color input. Component! That's it. She can't use that.

    Video1 AND 2 are composite, she can't use that.

    PC IN For use when connecting a personal computer. When she lived in Baltimore her PC was in another room and I don't think there was a wire connecting them. I've written her son to try to find out what she is
    talking about.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clifford Heath@21:1/5 to Phil Allison on Sun Mar 13 16:22:04 2022
    On 13/3/22 1:16 pm, Phil Allison wrote:
    On 13/3/22 5:55 am, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >>> power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor
    plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse:
    To stop your house burning down.

    ** Plenty of homes have burned down due to TV set fires that did not blow the fuse.

    The question is, how many have *not* burnt down due to a TV set fire
    that didn't happen because the fuse blew? No protection is perfect.

    A fuse in your TV isn't going to stop a meteorite hitting your house either.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,

    The transformer has limited amperage because if you overload it, it will
    burn out or catch fire.

    ** Most have a thermal fuse inside them.

    Hopefully. Not a good idea to rely on it, as he seemed to suggest he would.

    Get a proper fuse. Buy two, because the first one will probably blow due
    to the fault that blew the first one. Use the second after you've fixed
    that fault.
    ** You did see how the "110V" set had been somehow connected to "220V" ??
    Massive over voltage on the PSU, electros become voltage clamps and MOSFETs go phufft.

    Yep, exactly why I told him not to hope a replacement fuse would fix it.
    Told him to buy two fuses because he probably won't listen :)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Layman@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 09:35:12 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 13/03/2022 05:52, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:

    (snip)

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just
    blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that allow enough current to start a fire?

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    (what url did you forget to insert?!)

    Did you not read the warning above the fuse on that PCB?
    "CAUTION: For continued protection against risk of fire replace only
    with same type and rating of fuse". I don't think it could be any clearer.

    Out of interest, is it usual in the US to spec a 240V fuse for use with
    a 120V supply?

    --

    Jeff

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com on Sun Mar 13 15:37:41 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    Ok, guys, I jumpered the fuse holder with a store-bought 10" jumper wire
    and got a big spark (even before I tried to turn the tv on. I guess I
    should have anticipated that.)

    I thought that was bad until I thought, Well, it uses almost 8 amps and
    maybe the alligator clips didn't make a good connection.

    So used all three jumper wires and this time no spark, just smoke. :-)

    From one of the diodes, based on the brown spot next to it and the
    swollen diode.

    Plus the alligator clips at one end of two of the jumper wires fell off!

    So now it's on to a new board.

    The board is discontinued of course, but there are lots for sale at
    various places, all about 40 dollars. Whether they are new,
    "reconditioned" or used, it's okay by me.

    The part number is Toshiba PK101V0830I

    But what would be great is to find the 220v version of this. So how
    would I find what the part number is for the 220 volt version of this.

    I wrote Toshiba to ask what the partnumber would be for 220v, but I
    think I wrote Toshiba USA. I can call Toshiba in the US Monday at
    8AM. Will they know or should I call some European repairman? I
    haven't found a tech support page for anywhere in Europe yet. It looks
    like I have but then the page is about all of Toshiba, not just tvs, not
    just consumer goods,

    Would Toshiba use the same tv model# 40RV525U for its 220volt model? I
    doubt it, and I can't guess what it would be.

    What should I do next? (Helpful answers only, please.)



    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 20:55:09 +0200, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit >breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor >plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power >supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It >gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an >extra time, but that's not so bad.
































    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Sun Mar 13 10:35:26 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In article <t0kdsg$r3u$1@dont-email.me>, jmlayman@invalid.invalid
    says...

    Did you not read the warning above the fuse on that PCB?
    "CAUTION: For continued protection against risk of fire replace only
    with same type and rating of fuse". I don't think it could be any clearer.

    Out of interest, is it usual in the US to spec a 240V fuse for use with
    a 120V supply?

    --



    In the US fuses for the plug in devices like lamps and TV sets are
    usually rated for 250 volts. It is fine to use a fuse rated for 250
    volts on the 120 volt devices. Most of the house wiring is for 120
    volts for the common plug in wall sockets.

    There are some fuses rated for around 25 volts (forget the exect
    voltage) that are made to use in the older cars that operate on 12 volts
    and maybe 24 volts DC.

    The reason for a voltage rating on a fuse is that if a higher voltage
    is used it may arc over and not actually cout off the power. A fuse
    rated for 10 amps will open at around 10 amps no matter what the voltage
    is as long as it is low enough not to arc over.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to jmlayman@invalid.invalid on Sun Mar 13 16:46:57 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:35:12 +0000, Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:

    On 13/03/2022 05:52, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F
    <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:

    (snip)

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just
    blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that
    allow enough current to start a fire?

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo :
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    (what url did you forget to insert?!)

    Who knows! With all the radiation I've gotten ever since I used that
    off-brand fuse, I can't tell my right hand from my right hand.

    Did you not read the warning above the fuse on that PCB?

    No. Warnings are for grown-ups.

    "CAUTION: For continued protection against risk of fire replace only
    with same type and rating of fuse". I don't think it could be any clearer.

    Out of interest, is it usual in the US to spec a 240V fuse for use with
    a 120V supply?

    Most fuses go up to 250, don't they?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 08:50:58 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 3/13/2022 7:46 AM, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:35:12 +0000, Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:

    On 13/03/2022 05:52, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F
    <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:

    (snip)

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just >>> blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that >>> allow enough current to start a fire?

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo :
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    (what url did you forget to insert?!)

    Who knows! With all the radiation I've gotten ever since I used that off-brand fuse, I can't tell my right hand from my right hand.

    Did you not read the warning above the fuse on that PCB?

    No. Warnings are for grown-ups.

    "CAUTION: For continued protection against risk of fire replace only
    with same type and rating of fuse". I don't think it could be any clearer. >>
    Out of interest, is it usual in the US to spec a 240V fuse for use with
    a 120V supply?

    Most fuses go up to 250, don't they?

    I can't remember ever seeing a "120V" fuse. The basic configuration of
    old fashioned fuses will handle 250V fine. How/why would they make them
    "120V" fuses.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to jmlayman@invalid.invalid on Sun Mar 13 17:32:36 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:35:12 +0000, Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:


    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo :
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    (what url did you forget to insert?!)

    I was going to find the url before posting. Failing that I tried just
    now.

    Someone messed with my Firefox and made Bing the default search engine!!
    I sure didn't do that.

    So I thought if I went back to google I'd find it. It was the second or
    third hit when I first looked, searching on the TV model number. Now I
    can't find it at all. I thought it int eresting becaue the board didn't
    look at all like the one in the ebay ad, and maybe someone wrote him or
    he noticed he had the wrong model number and he changed it, so I can't
    find it. Who knows? It was the wrong video anyhow.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 09:07:50 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 3/12/2022 9:52 PM, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >>> power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor
    plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power
    supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It >>> gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would >>> not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or >>> not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come >>> back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an >>> extra time, but that's not so bad.

    There could be a voltage limiter, like a MOV just past that fuse that
    shorts out to blow the fuse, thus keeping surge voltage from frying the
    TV. Such a device may need to be replaced also to retain that
    protection, or, if shorted, it would have to be disconnected.

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just
    blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that allow enough current to start a fire?

    The board has a fee parts that might be a MOV.
    They are labeled CY101..., TH101..., UA101 and CP101. There is only
    one of the last two.
    Are any of these usual abbreviation for a MOV? I've been looking
    online for a list of abbreviations that includes these, no luck so far, quicker to ask you, Bob (and others).

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo : https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    I'm the second or third person she's had look at it. It's too big and
    heavy to take to a shop, so if I bypass the fuse and fail to note a
    shorted MOV and it gets worse, I think she will just take her loss and
    buy one.

    If the fuse did its job fast enough, the MOV, if any, may be fine.

    A little light reading
    https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-select-mov/



    References to previous thread. The TV has HDMI input (3 interfaces!),
    but when she lived in Baltimore she was streaming from Amazon, and I
    think that was her current plan. Although I don't understand how. The manual says "INPUT — Repeatedly press to change the source you are
    viewing (ANT/CABLE, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, ColorStream
    HD1, ColorStream HD2, HDMI 1, HDMI 2, HDMI 3, PC)."

    Colorstream is their name for separate red, blue, whatever color input. Component! That's it. She can't use that.

    Video1 AND 2 are composite, she can't use that.

    Smart TVs can stream directly through their WiFi or ethernet cable
    connector. A streaming box, like an Amazon Fire TV, can be plugged into
    any HDMI input of older TVs to do the same.

    Used 50" TV's are easy to find these days for $50, or often free in my
    local Craigslist. I picked up a 55" 4K TV with just a little screen burn
    for $75 a few weeks ago.


    PC IN — For use when connecting a personal computer. When she lived in Baltimore her PC was in another room and I don't think there was a wire connecting them. I've written her son to try to find out what she is talking about.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 09:10:36 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 3/13/2022 6:37 AM, micky wrote:
    Ok, guys, I jumpered the fuse holder with a store-bought 10" jumper wire
    and got a big spark (even before I tried to turn the tv on. I guess I
    should have anticipated that.)

    I thought that was bad until I thought, Well, it uses almost 8 amps and
    maybe the alligator clips didn't make a good connection.

    So used all three jumper wires and this time no spark, just smoke. :-)

    From one of the diodes, based on the brown spot next to it and the
    swollen diode.

    Plus the alligator clips at one end of two of the jumper wires fell off!

    So now it's on to a new board.

    The board is discontinued of course, but there are lots for sale at
    various places, all about 40 dollars. Whether they are new,
    "reconditioned" or used, it's okay by me.

    The part number is Toshiba PK101V0830I

    But what would be great is to find the 220v version of this. So how
    would I find what the part number is for the 220 volt version of this.

    I wrote Toshiba to ask what the partnumber would be for 220v, but I
    think I wrote Toshiba USA. I can call Toshiba in the US Monday at
    8AM. Will they know or should I call some European repairman? I
    haven't found a tech support page for anywhere in Europe yet. It looks
    like I have but then the page is about all of Toshiba, not just tvs, not
    just consumer goods,

    Would Toshiba use the same tv model# 40RV525U for its 220volt model? I
    doubt it, and I can't guess what it would be.

    What should I do next? (Helpful answers only, please.)

    Buy a used TV.




    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 20:55:09 +0200, micky <NONONOmisc07@fmguy.com> wrote:

    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the
    power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor
    plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power
    supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It
    gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an
    extra time, but that's not so bad.
































    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Mar 13 17:02:07 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In article <t0l3t2$ql3$1@dont-email.me>, bobnospam@gmail.com says...

    On 3/13/2022 7:46 AM, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:35:12 +0000, Jeff Layman <jmlayman@invalid.invalid> wrote:

    On 13/03/2022 05:52, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F
    <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:

    (snip)

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just >>> blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that >>> allow enough current to start a fire?

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo :
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had >>> found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    (what url did you forget to insert?!)

    Who knows! With all the radiation I've gotten ever since I used that off-brand fuse, I can't tell my right hand from my right hand.

    Did you not read the warning above the fuse on that PCB?

    No. Warnings are for grown-ups.

    "CAUTION: For continued protection against risk of fire replace only
    with same type and rating of fuse". I don't think it could be any clearer. >>
    Out of interest, is it usual in the US to spec a 240V fuse for use with
    a 120V supply?

    Most fuses go up to 250, don't they?

    I can't remember ever seeing a "120V" fuse. The basic configuration of
    old fashioned fuses will handle 250V fine. How/why would they make them "120V" fuses.

    Surely the fuse would be identical, just the labelling changed for the
    benefit of people who did not know what it meant anyway...

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to bobnospam@gmail.com on Sun Mar 13 19:46:10 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:07:50 -0700, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 9:52 PM, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F
    <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >>>> power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit >>>> breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor >>>> plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power >>>> supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting >>>> the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV >>>> from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse. >>>> I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It >>>> gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short >>>> in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would >>>> not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or >>>> not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come >>>> back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an >>>> extra time, but that's not so bad.

    There could be a voltage limiter, like a MOV just past that fuse that
    shorts out to blow the fuse, thus keeping surge voltage from frying the
    TV. Such a device may need to be replaced also to retain that
    protection, or, if shorted, it would have to be disconnected.

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just
    blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that
    allow enough current to start a fire?

    The board has a fee parts that might be a MOV.
    They are labeled CY101..., TH101..., UA101 and CP101. There is only
    one of the last two.
    Are any of these usual abbreviation for a MOV? I've been looking
    online for a list of abbreviations that includes these, no luck so far,
    quicker to ask you, Bob (and others).

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo :
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    I'm the second or third person she's had look at it. It's too big and
    heavy to take to a shop, so if I bypass the fuse and fail to note a
    shorted MOV and it gets worse, I think she will just take her loss and
    buy one.

    If the fuse did its job fast enough, the MOV, if any, may be fine.

    I guess it didn't. I might not have said this because I distrust some
    of the reports I've gotten but did I mention that the whole house went
    dark when this first happened? So I guess it wasn't fast enough.

    A little light reading
    https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-select-mov/

    Bedtime.


    References to previous thread. The TV has HDMI input (3 interfaces!),
    but when she lived in Baltimore she was streaming from Amazon, and I
    think that was her current plan. Although I don't understand how. The
    manual says "INPUT Repeatedly press to change the source you are
    viewing (ANT/CABLE, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, ColorStream
    HD1, ColorStream HD2, HDMI 1, HDMI 2, HDMI 3, PC)."

    Colorstream is their name for separate red, blue, whatever color input.
    Component! That's it. She can't use that.

    Video1 AND 2 are composite, she can't use that.

    Smart TVs can stream directly through their WiFi or ethernet cable
    connector. A streaming box, like an Amazon Fire TV, can be plugged into
    any HDMI input of older TVs to do the same.

    She claimed she needed no box. I'll ask her son.

    Used 50" TV's are easy to find these days for $50, or often free in my
    local Craigslist. I picked up a 55" 4K TV with just a little screen burn
    for $75 a few weeks ago.

    I looked for thrift shops but I haven't looked on Craiglist. That's
    where I got an apartment one year, but this year the closest roommates
    wanted were 100's of miles away. Maybe covid is responsible somehow.


    PC IN For use when connecting a personal computer. When she lived in
    Baltimore her PC was in another room and I don't think there was a wire
    connecting them. I've written her son to try to find out what she is
    talking about.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From micky@21:1/5 to gravity@mjcoon.plus.com on Sun Mar 13 20:02:43 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 19:58:22 -0000, Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:

    In article <5esp2hpfn7o6snpjv8fr9tr1b01v6jvk0l@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07 >@fmguy.com says...

    You cannot mean 40 amps, surely? Even at only 110 volts that is still
    quite a powerful heater! 40 inches, perhaps?

    yes 40 inches!!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 13:41:21 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 3/13/2022 10:46 AM, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:07:50 -0700, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 9:52 PM, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 11:54:18 -0800, Bob F
    <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 3/12/2022 10:55 AM, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the >>>>> power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit >>>>> breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor >>>>> plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power >>>>> supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting >>>>> the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV >>>>> from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse. >>>>> I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but >>>>> it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?) >>>>>
    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to >>>>> take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world, >>>>> supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It >>>>> gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short >>>>> in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would >>>>> not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or >>>>> not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come >>>>> back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will >>>>> fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an >>>>> extra time, but that's not so bad.

    There could be a voltage limiter, like a MOV just past that fuse that
    shorts out to blow the fuse, thus keeping surge voltage from frying the >>>> TV. Such a device may need to be replaced also to retain that
    protection, or, if shorted, it would have to be disconnected.

    This seems very important. If there is one that's shorted, it will just >>> blow the fuse over and over, and if I've bypassed the fuse....would that >>> allow enough current to start a fire?

    The board has a fee parts that might be a MOV.
    They are labeled CY101..., TH101..., UA101 and CP101. There is only
    one of the last two.
    Are any of these usual abbreviation for a MOV? I've been looking
    online for a list of abbreviations that includes these, no luck so far,
    quicker to ask you, Bob (and others).

    Retirednoguilt was kind enough to post
    Power supply on ebay shows a fuse in the photo :
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Toshiba-40RV525U-Power-Supply-75013355-PK101V0830I-/263417775721?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l4275.c3#viTabs_0
    and that looks just like her power supply. --- Surprising since I had
    found this video of someone repairing the PS on supposedly the same
    model and the boards look entirely diffferen -- [Insert url here]

    I'm the second or third person she's had look at it. It's too big and
    heavy to take to a shop, so if I bypass the fuse and fail to note a
    shorted MOV and it gets worse, I think she will just take her loss and
    buy one.

    If the fuse did its job fast enough, the MOV, if any, may be fine.

    I guess it didn't. I might not have said this because I distrust some
    of the reports I've gotten but did I mention that the whole house went
    dark when this first happened? So I guess it wasn't fast enough.

    Knowing that, It is probably time to write that TV off. Who knows where
    in the TV got too much voltage?




    A little light reading
    https://www.homemade-circuits.com/how-to-select-mov/

    Bedtime.


    References to previous thread. The TV has HDMI input (3 interfaces!),
    but when she lived in Baltimore she was streaming from Amazon, and I
    think that was her current plan. Although I don't understand how. The >>> manual says "INPUT — Repeatedly press to change the source you are
    viewing (ANT/CABLE, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2, ColorStream
    HD1, ColorStream HD2, HDMI 1, HDMI 2, HDMI 3, PC)."

    Colorstream is their name for separate red, blue, whatever color input.
    Component! That's it. She can't use that.

    Video1 AND 2 are composite, she can't use that.

    Smart TVs can stream directly through their WiFi or ethernet cable
    connector. A streaming box, like an Amazon Fire TV, can be plugged into
    any HDMI input of older TVs to do the same.

    She claimed she needed no box. I'll ask her son.

    Used 50" TV's are easy to find these days for $50, or often free in my
    local Craigslist. I picked up a 55" 4K TV with just a little screen burn
    for $75 a few weeks ago.

    I looked for thrift shops but I haven't looked on Craiglist. That's
    where I got an apartment one year, but this year the closest roommates
    wanted were 100's of miles away. Maybe covid is responsible somehow.


    PC IN — For use when connecting a personal computer. When she lived in >>> Baltimore her PC was in another room and I don't think there was a wire
    connecting them. I've written her son to try to find out what she is
    talking about.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Adrian Caspersz@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Mar 13 21:29:33 2022
    XPost: alt.home.repair

    On 13/03/2022 18:02, micky wrote:
    In alt.home.repair, on Sat, 12 Mar 2022 19:58:22 -0000, Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:

    In article <5esp2hpfn7o6snpjv8fr9tr1b01v6jvk0l@4ax.com>, NONONOmisc07
    @fmguy.com says...

    You cannot mean 40 amps, surely? Even at only 110 volts that is still
    quite a powerful heater! 40 inches, perhaps?

    yes 40 inches!!

    Hi Micky,

    Twice the voltage in something not prepared for it is a crap shoot to
    fix. And sounds like you have taken a US television abroad? Heap of pain
    with standards and frequencies?

    As others have posted, yeah - buy/bag a used TV

    Some folks are throwing out their perfectly good 'old' 4 yr old LCD TVs
    the same way some of them throw out their mobile phones.

    It's the apps. They have to have their apps.

    It's a TV!

    --
    Adrian C

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Phil Allison@21:1/5 to Adrian Caspersz on Sun Mar 13 15:37:04 2022
    Adrian Caspersz wrote:
    ==================

    Hi Micky,

    Twice the voltage in something not prepared for it is a crap shoot to
    fix.

    ** Certainly is with SMPSs.

    But when iron transformers ruled, it mostly only blew a supply fuse.
    Such transformers draw a HUGE current when double voltaged and save the circuitry.


    And sounds like you have taken a US television abroad?

    ** Stupid folk do things like that.


    .... Phil

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From steve@justnn.com@21:1/5 to Bob F on Mon Mar 14 15:08:52 2022
    On Sun, 13 Mar 2022 09:07:50 -0700, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    Used 50" TV's are easy to find these days for $50, or often free in my
    local Craigslist. I picked up a 55" 4K TV with just a little screen burn
    for $75 a few weeks ago.

    It's amazing how just a tiny burn becomes a distraction. I put up with
    a barely visible dot on a TV for about a year because I couldn't get
    out to buy a new one. Eventually a friend bought me a new one because
    she was sick of me moaning about the dot!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From whit3rd@21:1/5 to Jeff Layman on Mon Mar 14 18:12:44 2022
    On Sunday, March 13, 2022 at 1:35:17 AM UTC-8, Jeff Layman wrote:

    Out of interest, is it usual in the US to spec a 240V fuse for use with
    a 120V supply?

    Yes, it is. The possibility of a 'floating neutral' means that a 240V input from a nominal 120V socket is a (relatively) common kind of home wiring failure.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From YK@21:1/5 to All on Thu Mar 17 10:03:20 2022
    I think 'Micky' uses a random generator to bring up all these questions.
    He doesn't even want an answer. He just wants to roil up the newsgroups.

    This isn't the only newsgroup he does this random question generation on.
    I think he does it for fun but we'd have to ask him why he does it.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From ohger1s@gmail.com@21:1/5 to All on Thu Mar 17 11:05:26 2022
    On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 10:03:24 AM UTC-4, YK wrote:
    I think 'Micky' uses a random generator to bring up all these questions.
    He doesn't even want an answer. He just wants to roil up the newsgroups.

    This isn't the only newsgroup he does this random question generation on.
    I think he does it for fun but we'd have to ask him why he does it.

    He'd be better off then spamming Quora, who *encourages* this type of inane questioning and will actually pay you if you can pump enough questions into their site.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From three_jeeps@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 18 10:07:41 2022
    On Thursday, March 17, 2022 at 10:03:24 AM UTC-4, YK wrote:
    I think 'Micky' uses a random generator to bring up all these questions.
    He doesn't even want an answer. He just wants to roil up the newsgroups.

    This isn't the only newsgroup he does this random question generation on.
    I think he does it for fun but we'd have to ask him why he does it.

    The fact that he/she/they/them/it is an idiot/troll/an AI program was apparent from his first few posts. No one can be that stupid, well then again, there are exceptions.
    Ignore him/her/they/them/it and (hopefully) it will go away.
    J

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Charles Lucas@21:1/5 to micky on Sun Jul 10 13:20:42 2022
    On Saturday, March 12, 2022 at 12:55:16 PM UTC-6, micky wrote:
    I took apart the television I've posted about and there is a fuse on the power supply board and it's blown. It was blown (and the home circuit
    breaker was tripped at the same time it iseems) when a helpful neighbor plugged the 110v tv straight into 220.

    What is the purpose of the fuse: To keep a short circuit in the power
    supply (or other part of the tv) from pulling too much current, melting
    the wire's insulation, and starting a fire?

    Or the opposite, to protect the TV
    from surges.

    It will be hard to find another fuse. It's a small size ceramic fuse.
    I can post the size after I f ind a lamp and a magnifying glass, but
    it's probably 2 or 3 amps, right? (Are all ceramic fuses slo-blo?)

    If the purpose of the fuse is only to protect the tv, I'm willing to
    take the risk, wrap the fuse in tinfoil and put it back together.

    If it's to avoid a fire, then this is a 110v tv in a 220 volt world,
    supplied by a step-down transformer of limited amperage. 500 watts. (It
    gives the same wattage for both directions.) Surely even a cold short
    in the tv when the maxiumum supplied power is I guess about 5 amps would
    not be anywhere near enough to start a fire.

    Right?

    The other possibility is to wrap the fuse in foil, decide if it works or
    not, and leave here (where it is too cold for me and too rainy) and come
    back after I buy the right fuse in a city. What are the odds it will
    fail in the next 3 week? That requires putting the tv back togehter an
    extra time, but that's not so bad.
































    We are 50 miles from nowhere down a rainy winding road.

    The purpose of a fuse is for protection of the consumer (or consumer's house) in the event of any electrical failure beyond the comprehension of the consumer.
    The fuse is designed to open up even with the slightest of problems. Safety first.
    The circuits start out as AC (alternating current) power and have to go through a few power conversions. There is AC to DC conversion and AC to AC conversion. In your case, it sounds like you had an over-voltage
    condition (a form of overload on the input power, or a form of a power surge). From what you tell the board or forum, more than likely
    it is a one-off situation. I would spend the $3 on the replacement fuse (and never
    use tin foil or a penny for a number of various reasons, some of them obvious).

    Other reasons why fuses blow is because of short circuits, failed components,
    overcurrent conditions, and overvoltage conditions. Seems like you had an overvoltage
    condition (which is a relatively minor problem, based on what you said) versus the other
    reasons fuses blow. This is a small part of some of the failures found in electronics.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 10 14:09:39 2022
    The purpose of a fuse is for protection of the consumer (or consumer's house)
    in the event of any electrical failure beyond the comprehension of the consumer.
    The fuse is designed to open up even with the slightest of problems. Safety first.
    The circuits start out as AC (alternating current) power and have to go through
    a few power conversions. There is AC to DC conversion and AC to AC conversion.
    In your case, it sounds like you had an over-voltage
    condition (a form of overload on the input power, or a form of a power surge).

    I am not sure what you do for either a hobby, business or living of any nature. What is clear is that your knowledge of fuses is a mile wide, but only an inch deep.

    Some basics:
    a) Fuses do age. and fuses that run even reasonably close to their rating age rather quickly. Dozens of months, not dozens of years.
    b) Fuses come in many types - most basic are "Normal", "Slow Blow" and "Time Delay", not to be confused with Slow Blow. Within each basic category are sub-sets:

    "Normal" also comes in Fast-Blow and Ultra-Fast Blow.
    "Slow Blow" also comes in Very-Slow-Blow - You might see these types on Kilns and other very heavy resistance-only loads where equipment failure is very rare, and the fuses are rated against nuisance failures.
    "Time Delay", AKA Dual-Element Fuses can handle an initial surge, then revert to 'standard' or 'fast' behavior. Mostly seen on motor-loads, but useful for tube equipment, as cold filaments have very low resistance. With these fuses, the amount and time
    of the surge tolerated varies.

    The OP does not understand the nature of the fuse in the Device. Just as you do not understand the 'which fuse' question. However, it is clear that the fuse failed properly - not from age - and that there is something else going on. 8 amps! that is a lot
    of current into even a very large-screen TV. Our vintage, very large plasma TV pulls half of that. So, whatever is going on is serious.

    As to bypassing fuses - DO SO FIRST IF ONE MUST across either (an) incandescent lamp(s) of some wattage such that one might predict how bright it should be, 8 amps @ 110 VAC is 880 watts - start with 200 watts and see if that goes to full brightness.
    Unless the screen is huge, I cannot imagine that, as "Book" on a 60" LED is 200 watts. "Book" on a similar Plasma is 500 watts. But, NEVER with a jumper. Then again, is the OP's fuse at line-level, or down-line? Hmmmm...

    I have a little outboard fuse block that I will jumper into a piece of equipment so as to be able to do tests - but there is STILL a fuse involved.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)