• Need recommendation for USB power analyzer tool.

    From David Farber@21:1/5 to All on Sat Feb 5 10:54:40 2022
    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.
    --
    David Farber
    Los Osos, CA

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  • From legg@21:1/5 to farberbear.unspam@aol.com on Sat Feb 5 16:01:40 2022
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want >something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any >recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    More likely to be a non-linearity in the gauge monitoring
    method. A 15% gauge is a crude guess - a 95% gauge will
    depend on settings and tolerances. Both reported values
    will likely shift dramatically when transferring from charge
    to discharge mode or vice versa.

    A linear charger, thermally limited, will be more restricted
    in delivering power when the battery terminal voltage is lower
    (bigger drop across the regulator). Linears will only be found
    in the oldest or cheapest devices, at USB power and voltage
    levels.

    The deviation you've noted is probably not worth the time,
    trouble or expense to pursue, unless you're in the design/ build/test/repair/volume-trade businesses.

    RL

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Sat Feb 5 13:10:32 2022
    Consider a battery very similar to a clock spring. And the charger similar to the key winding that spring. The key turns at a constant rate, so the first 30 (of 100) turns seems to do almost nothing. Whereas the last turn requires the most effort and
    gives the largest measurable results. The gauge that you are reading measures the tension on the spring, not how fully it is wound, but for practical purposes, the same thing at the end of the process. Charging a battery is by no means similar to filling
    a gas tank - just keep that in mind.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

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  • From David Farber@21:1/5 to legg on Sat Feb 5 13:43:23 2022
    On 2/5/2022 1:01 PM, legg wrote:
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want
    something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any
    recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    More likely to be a non-linearity in the gauge monitoring
    method. A 15% gauge is a crude guess - a 95% gauge will
    depend on settings and tolerances. Both reported values
    will likely shift dramatically when transferring from charge
    to discharge mode or vice versa.

    A linear charger, thermally limited, will be more restricted
    in delivering power when the battery terminal voltage is lower
    (bigger drop across the regulator). Linears will only be found
    in the oldest or cheapest devices, at USB power and voltage
    levels.

    The deviation you've noted is probably not worth the time,
    trouble or expense to pursue, unless you're in the design/ build/test/repair/volume-trade businesses.

    RL
    Hi RL,

    Thanks for all those operational details but these USB power meters are
    not that expensive:

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+power+analyzer&sprefix=usb+power+anal%2Caps%2C502

    Most of them are in the $10-$40 range. My Kindle can take more than 8
    hours to charge so I'd like to do some investigating.

    Thanks for your reply.
    --
    David Farber
    Los Osos, CA

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From David Farber@21:1/5 to Peter W. on Sat Feb 5 14:00:51 2022
    On 2/5/2022 1:10 PM, Peter W. wrote:
    Consider a battery very similar to a clock spring. And the charger similar to the key winding that spring. The key turns at a constant rate, so the first 30 (of 100) turns seems to do almost nothing. Whereas the last turn requires the most effort and
    gives the largest measurable results. The gauge that you are reading measures the tension on the spring, not how fully it is wound, but for practical purposes, the same thing at the end of the process. Charging a battery is by no means similar to filling
    a gas tank - just keep that in mind.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    Hi Peter,

    Funny you should mention the clock spring analogy. Last year I completed
    my first course in clock repair. I was motivated to do so when a 100+
    year old mantel clock stopped functioning. It was professionally
    repaired many years ago and it did very well for 10 years after that.
    When it stopped working again, I really wanted to learn how to do my own repairs.

    Getting back to the USB charging issue, I was hoping someone in this
    group had a power meter in their toolbox and could recommend one.

    Thanks for your reply.
    --
    David Farber
    Los Osos, CA

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  • From Clifford Heath@21:1/5 to Peter W. on Sun Feb 6 09:57:37 2022
    On 6/2/22 8:10 am, Peter W. wrote:
    Consider a battery very similar to a clock spring. And the charger similar to the key winding that spring. The key turns at a constant rate, so the first 30 (of 100) turns seems to do almost nothing. Whereas the last turn requires the most effort and
    gives the largest measurable results.

    Thanks for demonstrating to us that you know almost nothing about either
    clock springs or battery chargers!

    Clock springs are usually retained inside a barrel (except in the
    cheapest clocks), so that each turn of the winding key unfurls another
    rotation of the spring from being tight against the inside of the rest
    of the spring. This results in *very little* progression of spring force
    from run-down to fully wound. This is essential to proper time-keeping, depending on the Q of the escapement mechanism (a Q of say 100 means
    that the spring force can affect 1% of the clock's rate, clearly
    unacceptable).

    Battery chargers radically lower the charge rate when the battery gets
    above about 80% full. The key *doesn't* turn at a constant rate.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Charlie+@21:1/5 to farberbear.unspam@aol.com on Sun Feb 6 07:19:16 2022
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote as underneath :

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want >something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any >recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    I have about 4 different makes/types over the years all Chinese, all
    work on the A USB plug/socket Id have to find adaptors for use with
    USBC. Just get the cheapest from eBay but make sure is counts mAh
    cumulative with a reset as well as V and A, some dont. Some will read A
    to .000 most only do 2 places. C+

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Feb 6 09:40:18 2022
    In article <stmh5d$shc$1@dont-email.me>, farberbear.unspam@aol.com
    says...

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    I think this was the one I bought. I am very happy with it but don't
    have much need for the power sink add-on or the built-in mAh accumulator
    etc. I think it also monitors the charge control negotiation and
    displays the result. There's a user-manual PDF link.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Sun Feb 6 04:50:01 2022
    Clock springs are usually retained inside a barrel (except in the
    cheapest clocks), so that each turn of the winding key unfurls another rotation of the spring from being tight against the inside of the rest
    of the spring. This results in *very little* progression of spring force from run-down to fully wound. This is essential to proper time-keeping, depending on the Q of the escapement mechanism (a Q of say 100 means
    that the spring force can affect 1% of the clock's rate, clearly unacceptable).

    Here in the US, spring-driven pendulum clocks did not, and do not, for the most part, use barrels. They did, however, use the deadbeat escapement (Seth Thomas patent in the US) that does tolerate a wide range of spring force. Making accurate clocks much
    cheaper than before, as to get that level of accuracy, they often required a fusee drive. And for exactly the reason given. Any escapement with backlash as you suggest, allows the drive force (spring) to overcome the pendulum swing, introducing all sorts
    of inaccuracy.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From legg@21:1/5 to farberbear.unspam@aol.com on Sun Feb 6 10:16:54 2022
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 13:43:23 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    On 2/5/2022 1:01 PM, legg wrote:
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want
    something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any
    recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    More likely to be a non-linearity in the gauge monitoring
    method. A 15% gauge is a crude guess - a 95% gauge will
    depend on settings and tolerances. Both reported values
    will likely shift dramatically when transferring from charge
    to discharge mode or vice versa.

    A linear charger, thermally limited, will be more restricted
    in delivering power when the battery terminal voltage is lower
    (bigger drop across the regulator). Linears will only be found
    in the oldest or cheapest devices, at USB power and voltage
    levels.

    The deviation you've noted is probably not worth the time,
    trouble or expense to pursue, unless you're in the design/
    build/test/repair/volume-trade businesses.

    RL
    Hi RL,

    Thanks for all those operational details but these USB power meters are
    not that expensive:

    https://www.amazon.com/s?k=usb+power+analyzer&sprefix=usb+power+anal%2Caps%2C502

    Most of them are in the $10-$40 range. My Kindle can take more than 8
    hours to charge so I'd like to do some investigating.

    Thanks for your reply.

    Overnight charging time of a Kindle-era device is not unusual.
    If you are relying on the Kindles gauge for reporting, the most
    accurate monitor will be your memory/experience in converting
    those numbers to the practical performance delivered.

    As your issue is slow charge time and not reducing run-time,
    keeping the thing plugged in or replacing the battery probably
    won't resolve it.

    I encounter lousy gauges in expensive equipment all the time,
    but repairing/improving them usually isn't an option. Once
    the programmer has ben paid, at time of development, that's
    what you're going to get.

    I don't know that having a second gauge telling you something
    different is going to help - they can only tell you what
    current is flowing through USB power lines: not what current
    is flowing into or out of the internal battery, before or
    after conversion, dependent on direction of current flow.

    RL

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Feb 6 17:06:52 2022
    In article <56df672b-edcb-4e9e-a2f5-5ef90a5e7c83n@googlegroups.com>, peterwieck33@gmail.com says...

    Clock springs are usually retained inside a barrel (except in the
    cheapest clocks), so that each turn of the winding key unfurls another rotation of the spring from being tight against the inside of the rest
    of the spring. This results in *very little* progression of spring force from run-down to fully wound. This is essential to proper time-keeping, depending on the Q of the escapement mechanism (a Q of say 100 means
    that the spring force can affect 1% of the clock's rate, clearly unacceptable).

    Here in the US, spring-driven pendulum clocks did not, and do not, for the most part, use barrels. They did, however, use the deadbeat escapement (Seth Thomas patent in the US) that does tolerate a wide range of spring force. Making accurate clocks
    much cheaper than before, as to get that level of accuracy, they often required a fusee drive. And for exactly the reason given. Any escapement with backlash as you suggest, allows the drive force (spring) to overcome the
    pendulum swing, introducing all sorts of inaccuracy.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    Anyone really interested in clock mechanisms could study "chain fusee" https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fusee_(horology)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From David Farber@21:1/5 to Mike Coon on Sun Feb 6 09:57:38 2022
    On 2/6/2022 1:40 AM, Mike Coon wrote:
    In article <stmh5d$shc$1@dont-email.me>, farberbear.unspam@aol.com
    says...

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want
    something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any
    recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    I think this was the one I bought. I am very happy with it but don't
    have much need for the power sink add-on or the built-in mAh accumulator
    etc. I think it also monitors the charge control negotiation and
    displays the result. There's a user-manual PDF link.

    Hi Mike,

    Did you inadvertently leave out the description of, "... the one I bought"?

    Thanks for your reply.
    --
    David Farber
    Los Osos, CA

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From legg@21:1/5 to charlie@xxx.net on Sun Feb 6 13:26:32 2022
    On Sun, 06 Feb 2022 07:19:16 +0000, Charlie+ <charlie@xxx.net> wrote:

    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote as underneath :

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't >>know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the >>charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in >>performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want >>something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any >>recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    I have about 4 different makes/types over the years all Chinese, all
    work on the A USB plug/socket Id have to find adaptors for use with
    USBC. Just get the cheapest from eBay but make sure is counts mAh
    cumulative with a reset as well as V and A, some dont. Some will read A
    to .000 most only do 2 places. C+

    These will not tell you actual battery status as they have no access
    to the battery terminals - only converter socket input and output.

    Currents will differ on both sides of the converters, in both
    directions and the external dongle will ignore the influence of
    both battery charging efficiency and converter losses in the
    transactions.

    . . . but then so do most built-in gauges, even for varying internal consumption. The best you'll ever get is a ball park estimate that
    your own experience has to qualify.

    RL

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Feb 6 19:45:00 2022
    In article <stp26i$vca$1@dont-email.me>, farberbear.unspam@aol.com
    says...

    On 2/6/2022 1:40 AM, Mike Coon wrote:
    In article <stmh5d$shc$1@dont-email.me>, farberbear.unspam@aol.com
    says...

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want
    something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any
    recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    I think this was the one I bought. I am very happy with it but don't
    have much need for the power sink add-on or the built-in mAh accumulator etc. I think it also monitors the charge control negotiation and
    displays the result. There's a user-manual PDF link.

    Hi Mike,

    Did you inadvertently leave out the description of, "... the one I bought"?

    Thanks for your reply.

    I didn't do it on purpose(!), and browser history has helped me get back
    to the page: <https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Multimeter-Current- Detector-delivery/dp/B07P252NY2/ref=sr_1_2? keywords=usb+power+analyzer&qid=1644139878&sprefix=usb+power+anal%2Caps% 2C502&sr=8-2#descriptionAndDetails>

    Link to manual: https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91cIyXAmu8L.pdf

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Clifford Heath@21:1/5 to Peter W. on Mon Feb 7 09:06:12 2022
    On 6/2/22 11:50 pm, Peter W. wrote:
    Clock springs are usually retained inside a barrel (except in the
    cheapest clocks), so that each turn of the winding key unfurls another
    rotation of the spring from being tight against the inside of the rest
    of the spring. This results in *very little* progression of spring force
    from run-down to fully wound. This is essential to proper time-keeping,
    depending on the Q of the escapement mechanism (a Q of say 100 means
    that the spring force can affect 1% of the clock's rate, clearly
    unacceptable).

    Here in the US, spring-driven pendulum clocks did not, and do not, for the most part, use barrels. They did, however, use the deadbeat escapement (Seth Thomas patent in the US) that does tolerate a wide range of spring force. Making accurate clocks
    much cheaper than before, as to get that level of accuracy, they often required a fusee drive. And for exactly the reason given. Any escapement with backlash as you suggest, allows the drive force (spring) to overcome the pendulum swing, introducing all
    sorts of inaccuracy.

    Deadbeat removes one source of inaccuracy, but at the end of the day,
    the spring has to deliver power to the pendulum to keep it swinging, and
    that coupling varies with spring force. The bottom line is that it's
    easier to e.g. use a heavier pendulum than it is to make a spring with a flatter power curve. The Taiwanese 31-day clocks can often tolerate a
    pendulum 3x heavier, and that dramatically improves their timekeeping.

    CH

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to farberbear.unspam@aol.com on Sun Feb 6 13:31:09 2022
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013,

    That's 9 years old. You could be dealing with an almost dead battery.

    Complaint: EVERY time you post a question, you either leave out or
    truncate the details on what you're working with. Some Kindle Fire
    models have "issues" and it's helpful to look for these "issues" or
    recalls before assaulting the alleged symptoms. In this case, None/HD/HDX/Kids, screen size, and what year Kindle Fire. Extra
    credit for some details on the charger. <https://www.mobilefun.co.uk/blog/2014/07/how-to-identify-your-kindle-model/>

    it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%.

    Hmmm... That's about what I would guess happens when you plug in an underpowered charger. As I vaguely recall, some of the Kindle tablets
    required a 5V 1.5A or 2.0A charger. Commodity chargers only deliver
    0.5A. If the USB controller chip in the charger is over-heating, I
    would expect something similar to what you're experiencing.

    Perhaps providing how long it takes (in minutes) might also be
    helpful? How long did it take to charge when it was new?

    In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer.

    You won't see much of that with an inline USB power meter unless you
    want to record voltage and current every few minutes and draw a graph. Something like this:
    "USB Current Sensor"
    <https://www.sparkfun.com/products/18016>
    Software:
    <https://github.com/sparkfunX/USB_Current_Sensor>
    Setup your computah as a data logger and measure the voltage output
    produced by the current sensor (1amp = 1volt). Graph the results and
    you can see what it's doing. My guess(tm) is that the graph is going
    to be far more erratic than you've already observed. If you don't
    want a pretty graph, just use the current senor and put voltmeters
    across the 5V line for the voltage, and across the output for current.

    Also, put an oscilloscope across USB 5V line. You might see
    oscillation and/or noise spikes.

    There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want >something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any >recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    I only have a pile of USB 2.0 type volt/amp USB meters. For fun, I
    put them all in series and compared readings. Not too horrible +/-5%
    on both voltage and current. However, you need something that will do
    USB 3.0:
    <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=usb+3.0+tester>

    Thanks for your reply.

    Gone to split some more firewood.

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From David Farber@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sun Feb 6 16:34:35 2022
    On 2/6/2022 1:31 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013,

    That's 9 years old. You could be dealing with an almost dead battery.

    Complaint: EVERY time you post a question, you either leave out or
    truncate the details on what you're working with. Some Kindle Fire
    models have "issues" and it's helpful to look for these "issues" or
    recalls before assaulting the alleged symptoms. In this case, None/HD/HDX/Kids, screen size, and what year Kindle Fire. Extra
    credit for some details on the charger. <https://www.mobilefun.co.uk/blog/2014/07/how-to-identify-your-kindle-model/>

    it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%.

    Hmmm... That's about what I would guess happens when you plug in an underpowered charger. As I vaguely recall, some of the Kindle tablets required a 5V 1.5A or 2.0A charger. Commodity chargers only deliver
    0.5A. If the USB controller chip in the charger is over-heating, I
    would expect something similar to what you're experiencing.

    Perhaps providing how long it takes (in minutes) might also be
    helpful? How long did it take to charge when it was new?

    In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer.

    You won't see much of that with an inline USB power meter unless you
    want to record voltage and current every few minutes and draw a graph. Something like this:
    "USB Current Sensor"
    <https://www.sparkfun.com/products/18016>
    Software:
    <https://github.com/sparkfunX/USB_Current_Sensor>
    Setup your computah as a data logger and measure the voltage output
    produced by the current sensor (1amp = 1volt). Graph the results and
    you can see what it's doing. My guess(tm) is that the graph is going
    to be far more erratic than you've already observed. If you don't
    want a pretty graph, just use the current senor and put voltmeters
    across the 5V line for the voltage, and across the output for current.

    Also, put an oscilloscope across USB 5V line. You might see
    oscillation and/or noise spikes.

    There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want
    something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any
    recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a
    few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    I only have a pile of USB 2.0 type volt/amp USB meters. For fun, I
    put them all in series and compared readings. Not too horrible +/-5%
    on both voltage and current. However, you need something that will do
    USB 3.0:
    <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=usb+3.0+tester>

    Thanks for your reply.

    Gone to split some more firewood.

    Hi Jeff and all the other contributors to this group,

    I really do appreciate all the feedback I get from this community. I've
    been posting messages and getting expert help here for over 20 years.

    As to your complaint about me leaving out important details every time,
    I am not doing that intentionally. I was expecting to purchase a USB
    tool that would help me figure out if one of my chargers, cords, or USB
    port on the Kindle were intermittent. I didn't think that it would be a manufacturing glitch or defect specific to this device.

    The Kindle model is: P48WVB4 otherwise known as a Fire HD (3rd
    generation) with a 7" screen. On the back, near the model number it says "Input: 5.0 VDC MAX 1.8A" I received the device 2nd hand when the owner upgraded to a new one. I don't have the original charger. I have three
    chargers which came from various devices and sources. Two of them are
    5.0 VDC 1A and the third one is, 5.0 VDC 0.85A. I have three USB cords.
    One is quite old and I suspect this is part of the problem.

    I viewed the link to the current sensor tool you mentioned (https://github.com/sparkfunX/USB_Current_Sensor). Though it does not
    have a display, it does have output terminals which the others do not.
    Again, I think the problem my Kindle has is a loose connection or a bad
    wire that can be easily detected by just monitoring the current while
    tapping on the connectors and flexing the wires. The battery when fully charged, will last around a week before needing to be recharged. I use
    it from 1-3 hours a day and leave the wireless disabled and brightness
    set to one step above minimum as I read in the evening with the text set
    to a white font and the background set to dark.

    Thanks for your reply.
    --
    David Farber
    Los Osos, CA

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to All on Sun Feb 6 19:07:14 2022
    On Sun, 06 Feb 2022 18:54:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    I found a few
    references that indicate that the Kindle Fire HD 7 3rd generation
    supports PD (power delivery) for fast charging.

    That's wrong. I did some more digging and could not find any
    references to the Kindle Fire HD 7 2013 3rd generation supporting PD
    (power delivery). The closest approximation to a spec sheet doesn't
    mention PD (or any other fast charging specs): <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_HD>
    Therefore, any 5V charger that will provide 2amps (10 watts) and a USB
    2.0 Micro-B connector, should work.

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to farberbear.unspam@aol.com on Sun Feb 6 18:54:30 2022
    On Sun, 6 Feb 2022 16:34:35 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:
    The Kindle model is: P48WVB4 otherwise known as a Fire HD (3rd
    generation) with a 7" screen.

    In the Amazonian language, that's a
    "Kindle Fire HD 7, 2013, 3rd Generation" <https://developer.amazon.com/docs/fire-tablets/ft-device-specifications-firehd-models.html?v=firehd_2013>
    Note that this is the 2nd version of the Kindle Fire HD 7, but since
    it was released in the 3rd year after the original, Amazon decided to
    call it the 3rd generation. Bigger numbers are better.

    I couldn't find anything that looked like a manufacturer's defect or
    chronic problem, just the usual bugs and glitches: <https://www.androidauthority.com/amazon-fire-tablet-problems-fixes-539370/>

    On the back, near the model number it says
    "Input: 5.0 VDC MAX 1.8A"

    Bingo. That's either a 2Amp or 10 Watt charger. I found a few
    references that indicate that the Kindle Fire HD 7 3rd generation
    supports PD (power delivery) for fast charging. You might want to
    borrow a 10 watt or 15 watt PD charger and see if it magically fixing
    the charge time problem.

    I received the device 2nd hand when the owner
    upgraded to a new one. I don't have the original charger.

    Sigh. He probably kept the PD charger (if that's what the Kindle Fire
    HD 7 3rd generation uses).

    I have three
    chargers which came from various devices and sources. Two of them are
    5.0 VDC 1A and the third one is, 5.0 VDC 0.85A.

    Both of those chargers should default to charging at 5V 0.5A. They'll
    probably work, but very sloooooooowly.

    I have three USB cords.
    One is quite old and I suspect this is part of the problem.

    I'll assume USB-C cables. A large percentage of the USB-C cables seem
    to use very fine wire and therefore have a substantial voltage drop.
    Phones, tablets, gizmos, and the guys who wrote the USB specs, will do
    strange things if the voltage drops below:
    5.0V -5% = 4.75V
    A bad cable might be a problem, but I don't think so. When I see bad
    cables, it's usually very "digital". It either works, or it doesn't,
    with nothing in between.

    I viewed the link to the current sensor tool you mentioned >(https://github.com/sparkfunX/USB_Current_Sensor). Though it does not
    have a display, it does have output terminals which the others do not.

    Please re-read what I wrote. You need to supply a voltmeter (DVM) in
    order to read the current. The device converts USB current into a
    measurable voltage (1Amp = 1Volt) while introducing only a tiny
    voltage loss.

    Again, I think the problem my Kindle has is a loose connection or a bad
    wire that can be easily detected by just monitoring the current while
    tapping on the connectors and flexing the wires.

    OK. I give up. Please purchase a USB 3.0 tester, any tester, and see
    if it can detect an intermittent cable or connector. When that fails,
    come back here and I'll try to convince you to try a 10 watt (or 15
    watt) charger, or consider a replacement battery.
    "How to Replace Your Amazon Kindle Fire HD 7 3rd Generation Battery" <https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4IMHHMM8sqg> <https://newpower99.com/products/amazon-kindle-fire-hd-3rd-generation-battery-replacement-kit>
    Hmmm... a bit expensive. More batteries: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=amazon+kindle+fire+hd+3rd+generation+battery>

    The battery when fully
    charged, will last around a week before needing to be recharged. I use
    it from 1-3 hours a day and leave the wireless disabled and brightness
    set to one step above minimum as I read in the evening with the text set
    to a white font and the background set to dark.

    I can't tell much from that without knowing how long it would run
    under similar conditions when it was new. CNet test show 9.3 hrs
    runtime for their video test. <https://www.cnet.com/reviews/amazon-kindle-fire-hd-2013-review/>


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Charlie+@21:1/5 to legg on Mon Feb 7 06:57:44 2022
    On Sun, 06 Feb 2022 13:26:32 -0500, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote as underneath :

    On Sun, 06 Feb 2022 07:19:16 +0000, Charlie+ <charlie@xxx.net> wrote:

    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote as underneath :

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the >>>house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works >>>fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't >>>know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16% >>>than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the >>>charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in >>>performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer. There's a
    very large selection of USB power analyzers available but I mostly want >>>something that will test "C" ports as well as the older ones. Any >>>recommendations? It seems that every review I read contains more than a >>>few complaints about reliability and sturdiness.

    Thanks for your reply.

    I have about 4 different makes/types over the years all Chinese, all
    work on the A USB plug/socket Id have to find adaptors for use with
    USBC. Just get the cheapest from eBay but make sure is counts mAh >>cumulative with a reset as well as V and A, some dont. Some will read A
    to .000 most only do 2 places. C+

    These will not tell you actual battery status as they have no access
    to the battery terminals - only converter socket input and output.

    Currents will differ on both sides of the converters, in both
    directions and the external dongle will ignore the influence of
    both battery charging efficiency and converter losses in the
    transactions.

    . . . but then so do most built-in gauges, even for varying internal >consumption. The best you'll ever get is a ball park estimate that
    your own experience has to qualify.

    Yep! C+

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  • From whit3rd@21:1/5 to David Farber on Sun Feb 6 23:57:41 2022
    On Saturday, February 5, 2022 at 1:43:25 PM UTC-8, David Farber wrote:
    On 2/5/2022 1:01 PM, legg wrote:
    On Sat, 5 Feb 2022 10:54:40 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbe...@aol.com> wrote:

    I have various USB chargers, cords, and portable devices around the
    house. One of my devices, a Kindle Fire from around 2013, which works
    fine, seems to have a nonlinear charging rate. Maybe that's OK. I don't
    know. For example, it seems to take much longer to go from 15% to 16%
    than from 95%-100%. In any case, I'd be curious to know how much the
    charging current is fluctuating and if there is any variation in
    performance between the wall chargers I have in my drawer.

    The deviation you've noted is probably not worth the time,
    trouble or expense to pursue, unless you're in the design/ build/test/repair/volume-trade businesses.

    The under-$10 items from Banggood and other marketers are adequate to
    tell if y our charge power supply can handle 100/500/1000/2000 mA currents,
    and if the voltage is correct. Some low-end USB sources are low-powered, some are not, and all the USB chargeables are different; sometimes it's nice to match
    the best charge source with the tablet that needs it. It won't tell you power, exactly, just
    monitors average current and voltage, but that's a good start.

    Beware, type C connections, as well as mini-B, micro-B, B, A, OTG and USB SuperSpeed, may
    not all work with any particular box; only the power current and voltage are fully compatible,
    not the connectors and data-transfer particulars.

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  • From David Farber@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sat Feb 26 11:31:28 2022
    On 2/6/2022 7:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Sun, 06 Feb 2022 18:54:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    I found a few
    references that indicate that the Kindle Fire HD 7 3rd generation
    supports PD (power delivery) for fast charging.

    That's wrong. I did some more digging and could not find any
    references to the Kindle Fire HD 7 2013 3rd generation supporting PD
    (power delivery). The closest approximation to a spec sheet doesn't
    mention PD (or any other fast charging specs): <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_HD>
    Therefore, any 5V charger that will provide 2amps (10 watts) and a USB
    2.0 Micro-B connector, should work.

    I bought the MarkerHawk USB tester, Model3. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCSNHNB
    I've been using it for a while now and it's quite good though it's not enclosed in a case and the buttons (which are bare microswitches) are
    mounted sideways AND recessed so they're not that easy to press. Also,
    you cannot view all the data on one screen. Most notably to view the
    elapsed charging time you need several button presses to switch screens
    and then several more button presses to return to the main screen. The
    features are nice but I wish I had gotten the 3B model which includes
    Bluetooth capabilities. This would have allowed me to use the included
    software on my laptop. Anyway, I noticed the biggest effect on the
    charging current was the type of cord I was using. I have a couple of
    skinny micro USB cords and one thicker cord. The thicker cord will
    register 3 times as much current as the thinner ones and that's why the charging times were not consistent.

    I performed a test last night using the thicker cord with the Kindle registering 15% remaining charge. After two hours, the numbers were very consistent. The intervals of my readings varied from 5 to 30 minutes but
    the percent increase charge per minute varied only slightly with the
    average being 2.38 minutes per one percent increase in charge. The
    charging current was maximum during the first 15 minutes starting at
    1.15A and dropping to 1.09A after 15 minutes. Then for the next 35
    minutes, the charging current was constant at 0.86A. The percentage
    charge was now at 37%. Then for the next 60 minutes, the current dropped
    to 0.67A and the percentage charge was 60%. At this point, the power was accidentally interrupted and when I plugged it back in again, the
    charging current jumped back up to over 1A and the tester's clock reset
    to 0. I felt at this point I had enough data to get an idea of how
    things were progressing so I stopped monitoring the charging current.

    In summary, it's a nice tool to use but the owner's manual...

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZFC9TEPUBI5vD081lVSdVgsmeWRnaqi9/view?usp=sharing

    ...takes some time to absorb as it's apparently been translated from
    another language. Maybe one of you could explain the importance (or unimportance) in knowing the voltages for the DP+ and DP- (data lines
    +/-)? Speaking of data lines, I noticed some of my cords will not
    transfer data and can only be used for charging. The thicker cord I was
    using does have the ability to transfer data so I'm wondering if there's
    some kind of communication going on between the charger and the Kindle
    that affects the charging rate.

    Thanks for your reply.

    --
    David Farber
    Los Osos, CA

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  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Sun Feb 27 06:12:30 2022
    You have to install National Instruments VISA package, Microsoft
    Studio, Labview elements yada yada and 2Meg worth of licensing
    agreements to use a $22 USB power test dongle?

    a) Does it charge the device? - Yes. Stop there.
    b) Does it charge the device? - No. Not at all? Replace. Yes but exceedingly slowly.
    c) Exceedingly slowly - Will another charger charge the device? Yes - dispose of first charger. No - suspect the device.

    This is not rocket science, nor is it worth any sort of brain damage, deep analysis or heroic measures. But, then this venue exists to provide overly complex solutions to simple problems after extensive discussions of picayune and irrelevant issues.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

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  • From legg@21:1/5 to farberbear.unspam@aol.com on Sun Feb 27 08:57:19 2022
    On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 11:31:28 -0800, David Farber
    <farberbear.unspam@aol.com> wrote:

    On 2/6/2022 7:07 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Sun, 06 Feb 2022 18:54:30 -0800, Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com>
    wrote:

    I found a few
    references that indicate that the Kindle Fire HD 7 3rd generation
    supports PD (power delivery) for fast charging.

    That's wrong. I did some more digging and could not find any
    references to the Kindle Fire HD 7 2013 3rd generation supporting PD
    (power delivery). The closest approximation to a spec sheet doesn't
    mention PD (or any other fast charging specs):
    <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fire_HD>
    Therefore, any 5V charger that will provide 2amps (10 watts) and a USB
    2.0 Micro-B connector, should work.

    I bought the MarkerHawk USB tester, Model3. >https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DCSNHNB
    I've been using it for a while now and it's quite good though it's not
    enclosed in a case and the buttons (which are bare microswitches) are
    mounted sideways AND recessed so they're not that easy to press. Also,
    you cannot view all the data on one screen. Most notably to view the
    elapsed charging time you need several button presses to switch screens
    and then several more button presses to return to the main screen. The >features are nice but I wish I had gotten the 3B model which includes >Bluetooth capabilities. This would have allowed me to use the included >software on my laptop. Anyway, I noticed the biggest effect on the
    charging current was the type of cord I was using. I have a couple of
    skinny micro USB cords and one thicker cord. The thicker cord will
    register 3 times as much current as the thinner ones and that's why the >charging times were not consistent.
    <snip>
    things were progressing so I stopped monitoring the charging current.

    In summary, it's a nice tool to use but the owner's manual...

    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZFC9TEPUBI5vD081lVSdVgsmeWRnaqi9/view?usp=sharing

    1/2G Zip file?

    ...takes some time to absorb as it's apparently been translated from
    another language. Maybe one of you could explain the importance (or >unimportance) in knowing the voltages for the DP+ and DP- (data lines
    +/-)? Speaking of data lines, I noticed some of my cords will not
    transfer data and can only be used for charging. The thicker cord I was
    using does have the ability to transfer data so I'm wondering if there's
    some kind of communication going on between the charger and the Kindle
    that affects the charging rate.

    Thanks for your reply.

    You have to install National Instruments VISA package, Microsoft
    Studio, Labview elements yada yada and 2Meg worth of licensing
    agreements to use a $22 USB power test dongle?

    Depending on how you look at it, it's either the deal of the
    century or some kind of OS invasion.

    RL

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to legg on Sun Feb 27 10:26:22 2022
    On Sun, 27 Feb 2022 08:57:19 -0500, legg <legg@nospam.magma.ca> wrote:

    In summary, it's a nice tool to use but the owner's manual...
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZFC9TEPUBI5vD081lVSdVgsmeWRnaqi9/view?usp=sharing

    1/2G Zip file?

    473MB ZIP file which un-compresses to 570MB. 386 files,

    The reason for the absurdly large file size is that the AC3 PC
    Software v1.3 appears twice in the ZIP archive. Once as uncompressed
    files and again as a RAR archive.

    For those interested, I copied the device and PC software instructions
    to:
    <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/A3C-USB-Analyzer/>
    About 2MBytes total.

    Note that all this ignores the original problem of charging the
    Kindle, which I guessed was because the 5V charger was rated at less
    than the required 2 Amps. It also appears that there's a USB cable
    problem which might be attributable to excessively high DC resistance
    or possibly the lack of data wires needed to negotiate a USB charging
    protocol.

    I'll play with this when time permits. Busy with firewood and dump
    runs for a few days.

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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