• Re: small motor "brush" material ?

    From John Sabino@21:1/5 to MJC on Thu Feb 3 12:50:07 2022
    On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 5:36:29 PM UTC-4, MJC wrote:
    In article <f6e561cf-16a8-4d0b...@googlegroups.com>,
    pf...@aol.com says...

    Those fingers are spring bronze, very thin and relatively hard to
    duplicate as the bronze alloy is a delicate balance between being too
    hard and not having enough spring. Too hard would eat into the
    commutator, not hard enough would anneal and fail quickly.
    Back in the 1950s (I guess) when my Dad and I were playing with toys, we
    also thought that a small motor had phosphor-bronze spring brushes.
    Having no idea where to get stock metal we tried cutting up slices from
    a roll sold by a local hardware as draught-prevention seals for doors
    etc. I don't remember how durable it was!

    Not sure if it is the same stuff, but I have some more recent "Atomic
    Weather Strip" made of "specially prepared copper alloys" and carrying a
    ten year life time...

    Mike.
    https://www.collectableivy.com/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John Sabino@21:1/5 to All on Thu Feb 3 12:48:55 2022
    Vintage College Football program


    https://www.collectableivy.com/

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Thu Feb 3 21:31:33 2022
    In article <fb00fe6c-406e-4a27-ab37-01e2c7757a81n@googlegroups.com>, valuablebook@gmail.com says...

    On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 5:36:29 PM UTC-4, MJC wrote:
    In article <f6e561cf-16a8-4d0b...@googlegroups.com>,
    pf...@aol.com says...

    Those fingers are spring bronze, very thin and relatively hard to
    duplicate as the bronze alloy is a delicate balance between being too
    hard and not having enough spring. Too hard would eat into the
    commutator, not hard enough would anneal and fail quickly.
    Back in the 1950s (I guess) when my Dad and I were playing with toys, we also thought that a small motor had phosphor-bronze spring brushes.
    Having no idea where to get stock metal we tried cutting up slices from
    a roll sold by a local hardware as draught-prevention seals for doors
    etc. I don't remember how durable it was!

    Not sure if it is the same stuff, but I have some more recent "Atomic Weather Strip" made of "specially prepared copper alloys" and carrying a ten year life time...

    Mike.
    https://www.collectableivy.com/

    I think that is called a "non sequitur". But thanks for reminding me of
    what I wrote ~5 years ago, remembering my long-dead father. Mike.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Liz Tuddenham@21:1/5 to John Sabino on Thu Feb 3 21:49:28 2022
    John Sabino <valuablebook@gmail.com> wrote:

    On Thursday, May 12, 2016 at 5:36:29 PM UTC-4, MJC wrote:
    In article <f6e561cf-16a8-4d0b...@googlegroups.com>,
    pf...@aol.com says...

    Those fingers are spring bronze, very thin and relatively hard to
    duplicate as the bronze alloy is a delicate balance between being too
    hard and not having enough spring. Too hard would eat into the
    commutator, not hard enough would anneal and fail quickly.
    Back in the 1950s (I guess) when my Dad and I were playing with toys, we also thought that a small motor had phosphor-bronze spring brushes.
    Having no idea where to get stock metal we tried cutting up slices from
    a roll sold by a local hardware as draught-prevention seals for doors
    etc. I don't remember how durable it was!

    Not sure if it is the same stuff, but I have some more recent "Atomic Weather Strip" made of "specially prepared copper alloys" and carrying a ten year life time...

    I've missed out on the beginning of this thread, but I had a problem
    with worn phosphor bronze leaf brushes on a small motor many years ago.
    They had worn right through and the ends had fallen off. I took an
    ordinary carbon brush from a much larger sized motor and cut a pair of
    cubes from it. Then I copper plated one side of each cube and soldered
    it onto the remains of the original brush, which just acted as a
    mounting spring.

    The commutator segments had also been cut through, so I flattened some
    copper wire and made some grossly oversized segments which I fixed in
    place with epoxy resin. When everything had set hard, I mounted it in
    the chuck of a small modeller's drill under a microscope and used a
    jewellers file to shape it back to size. The final trimming was done by driving the shaft from the far end and mounting the commutator end in a temporary bearing to keep it exactly concentric.

    The motor caried on working for a long time after that and its
    performance didn't seem to suffer from the extra resistance of the
    carbon brushes.

    (We are talking about a very long time ago, when small motors were
    almost unobtainable and I had no money to spare.)


    --
    ~ Liz Tuddenham ~
    (Remove the ".invalid"s and add ".co.uk" to reply)
    www.poppyrecords.co.uk

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Mike Coon@21:1/5 to All on Fri Feb 4 11:38:46 2022
    In article <1pmtldd.105m2vn1p4x1naN%liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid>, liz@poppyrecords.invalid.invalid says...

    John Sabino <valuablebook@gmail.com> wrote:

    I've missed out on the beginning of this thread, but I had a problem
    with worn phosphor bronze leaf brushes on a small motor many years ago.
    They had worn right through and the ends had fallen off. I took an
    ordinary carbon brush from a much larger sized motor and cut a pair of
    cubes from it. Then I copper plated one side of each cube and soldered
    it onto the remains of the original brush, which just acted as a
    mounting spring.

    The commutator segments had also been cut through, so I flattened some
    copper wire and made some grossly oversized segments which I fixed in
    place with epoxy resin. When everything had set hard, I mounted it in
    the chuck of a small modeller's drill under a microscope and used a
    jewellers file to shape it back to size. The final trimming was done by driving the shaft from the far end and mounting the commutator end in a temporary bearing to keep it exactly concentric.

    The motor caried on working for a long time after that and its
    performance didn't seem to suffer from the extra resistance of the
    carbon brushes.

    (We are talking about a very long time ago, when small motors were
    almost unobtainable and I had no money to spare.)

    That's a great story; I especially like the successful copper plating!

    Conversely, in the early 1960s, I was trying to recondition a 9.5mm
    projector (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/9.5_mm_film) and after fixing
    the mechanics the motor commutator developed a fault.

    I had access to company (I was an apprentice) supplies and machinery,
    and was allowed to purchase a short lenth of copper rod 1" diameter. (I
    don't remember the price but I only needed a few mm length and have
    0.565kg left!) I turned a brass central bush, a mandrel to mount it on,
    and a short copper tube for the commutator.

    See
    https://drive.google.com/file/d/15GOegJInJUCxQbS8BduOh73JMqEuaF3t/view? usp=sharing

    I don't remember how I kept it all concentric while I filled the gap
    between bush and tube with epoxy. But when I started using a
    dividing/indexing head to start slicing the copper into the (IIRC) 14
    segments, the adhesion failed and th segments fell off; see photo!

    At which point I'm afraid I gave up on the projector!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)