• USB charger from car battery inside house when power goes out

    From RonTheGuy@21:1/5 to All on Sat Oct 2 11:23:10 2021
    When the electrical power goes out, I have to charge my phone by turning the car on to the accessory position which isn't likely good for the car's electronics.

    In my spare parts box is a Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 (mfg 3/2015) with no
    power cord. The power receptacle at back seems to be the typical round
    center positive 12VDC input though, which may work off a spare car battery.

    It even has an RS485 in back with the plus and minus well marked.
    The DVR has two USB type A receptacles, one in back and one in front.

    Do you think if I craft a suitable power cable with clips fitting a 13 to
    15VDC (nominally 13.8VDC) car battery that this spare DVR can serve as an emergency phone charger when the electrical power goes out?

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to RonTheGuy on Sat Oct 2 13:29:52 2021
    On Sat, 2 Oct 2021 11:23:10 -0800, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:

    When the electrical power goes out, I have to charge my phone by turning the >car on to the accessory position which isn't likely good for the car's >electronics.

    In my spare parts box is a Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 (mfg 3/2015) with no >power cord. The power receptacle at back seems to be the typical round
    center positive 12VDC input though, which may work off a spare car battery.

    It even has an RS485 in back with the plus and minus well marked.
    The DVR has two USB type A receptacles, one in back and one in front.

    Do you think if I craft a suitable power cable with clips fitting a 13 to >15VDC (nominally 13.8VDC) car battery that this spare DVR can serve as an >emergency phone charger when the electrical power goes out?

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.

    It will work with your charger just fine. Just make sure that the
    Lorex DVR power supply has the + on the center pin, and the - on outer
    sleeve. Acceptable voltage range for automobiles can be anything
    between roughly 11 to 16V (or more) so you're not going to blow up the cigarette igniter to USB adapter.

    The problem is how to connect the Lorex power supply plug to the USB
    adapter. Several ways:

    1. The right way. Purchase a cigarette igniter connector with a
    wired pigtail. Something like this: <https://powerwerx.com/automotive-cigarette-lighter-socket-fused-bare-wire>

    2. If you don't have a connector or adapter, wrap a 3/4" dia hose
    clamp around the USB adapter. Make sure you have an electrical
    connection to the adapter ground connection. Connect a red alligator
    clip lead between the center pin of the DVR power supply and the
    center pin of the USB adapter. Connect a black alligator clip lead
    between the outer ground connection on the USB adapter, to the ground
    sleeve on the DVR power supply plug. If the wires move or fall out,
    hold them in place with some kind of tape. I've done it this way more
    times than I care to admit.

    3. Buy a 120V to 5V USB adapter: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=120v+to+5v+usb+adapter>

    4. Buy a charging station with USB A connectors and a pile of
    charging cables. Since I don't know what type of phone you have, I
    can't determine if you need micro-USB, USB-C, Lightning, fast charge,
    etc.

    5. If your unspecified model phone uses one of the fast charging
    options, such as QC-3.0 or Power Delivery 2 or 3, buy a quick charger
    and cable. The higher currents these cables use mean that the cables
    should be able to work at higher currents. I kinda like Anker power
    supplies (because unlike some others, they didn't die after a few
    months use). <https://www.target.com/p/anker-2-port-powerport-25-5w-power-delivery-wall-charger-with-3-39-powerline-select-lightning-to-usb-c-cable-white/-/A-76625604>
    (There are smaller cheaper models available).

    Note: We went through multiple cycles of power outages in my area
    while PG&E repaired the power lines and circuit breakers so that they
    would not start another fire. Although I have two gasoline
    generators, I prefer not to run them just for low power applications,
    like charging batteries. I also don't like the noise. So, I keep
    several large 12V AGM stationary batteries on float chargers. When I
    need to charge the phones, I take the USB car chargers and cables and
    connect them to the batteries with clipleads (method #2). It was
    kinda messy, but did the job.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RonTheGuy@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sun Oct 3 01:03:29 2021
    On Oct 02, 2021, Jeff Liebermann wrote
    (in article<news:fjehlgpa32sj6qbqp4n75f7p73049kgr9g@4ax.com>):
    It will work with your charger just fine. Just make sure that the
    Lorex DVR power supply has the + on the center pin, and the - on outer sleeve. Acceptable voltage range for automobiles can be anything
    between roughly 11 to 16V (or more) so you're not going to blow up the cigarette igniter to USB adapter.

    This essentially answers the question but I wasn't clear that I'm not going
    to use the car at all once I set this DVR to work off a standalone battery.

    I have the 12VDC extra car battery on a table in the garage.

    The plan I'm asking if it will work is if I put two big clips on that
    battery's terminals and the other end of that cable will be connected to the Lorex DVR to power it (positive in the center, negative in the sleeve).

    The Lorex DVR will output to the two USB A ports to charge my phone.
    There is no car involved. Sorry for the confusion. I didn't explain well.

    The only question, really, is whether the car battery itself can power the Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 sufficient for the two USB-A ports to work.

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to RonTheGuy on Sat Oct 2 18:56:13 2021
    On Sun, 3 Oct 2021 01:03:29 +0000, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:

    The only question, really, is whether the car battery itself can power the >Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 sufficient for the two USB-A ports to work.

    I couldn't find that model on the Lorex web site to determine the
    power drain.
    <https://www.lorextechnology.com>
    See if you can find the data sheet.

    Battery life would depend on the DVR plus the number of cameras in use
    and their on/off duty cycle. Probably the easiest thing to do in
    insert an ammeter in series with the 12V battery powering the DVR and
    measure what it's drawing. A typical car battery is not designed for stationary use. It's also not intended to be discharged much below
    50% of capacity. Find the Amp-Hr capacity of your battery (NOT cold
    cranking amps).

    For example, if your car battery is typically good for about 80
    amp-hrs. 50% capacity would give you 40 amp-hrs. If your DVR draws 2
    amps, you will have:
    40 amp-hr / 2 amps = 20 hrs of operation before you should turn it
    off. That should be plenty of time to charge a smartphone. However,
    you can do much better if you simply take the take the DVR out of the
    picture, and use a (cheap) 12V to 5V USB cigarette lighter adapter
    connected between the battery and the charger cable.

    My apologies for providing such vague information, but you haven't
    volunteered any model numbers, specification, or measurements for me
    to do much more than approximate. Fortunately, the calculation above
    is easy enough to modify.

    Offhand, I would say charging from the battery powered DVR will work
    for maybe 20 hrs, or much longer if you replace the DVR with a 12V to
    5V adapter.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rich@21:1/5 to RonTheGuy on Sun Oct 3 02:27:55 2021
    RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:
    When the electrical power goes out, I have to charge my phone by turning the car on to the accessory position which isn't likely good for the car's electronics.

    In my spare parts box is a Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 (mfg 3/2015) with no power cord. The power receptacle at back seems to be the typical round
    center positive 12VDC input though, which may work off a spare car battery.

    It even has an RS485 in back with the plus and minus well marked.
    The DVR has two USB type A receptacles, one in back and one in front.

    Do you think if I craft a suitable power cable with clips fitting a 13 to 15VDC (nominally 13.8VDC) car battery that this spare DVR can serve as an emergency phone charger when the electrical power goes out?

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.


    Why go to all that trouble.

    Get one of these:

    1) https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=13412

    And one of these:

    2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MQPQLNM

    Connect the battery clips of #1 to the car battery, connect the car charger (#2) to the cigarette lighter plug on the battery clip cable (#1) and
    connect the phone to the USB port of the car charger (#1) using a
    suitable USB to phone charging cable.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From RonTheGuy@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sun Oct 3 03:07:32 2021
    On Oct 03, 2021, Jeff Liebermann wrote
    (in article<news:5m2ilghnt0fb0udgn3mrv7jnqhuhfsdvpg@4ax.com>):
    My apologies for providing such vague information, but you haven't volunteered any model numbers, specification, or measurements for me
    to do much more than approximate. Fortunately, the calculation above
    is easy enough to modify.

    My apologies. Here is a photo of the insides and the model number plate. https://i.postimg.cc/pVgpNhY1/inside.jpg https://i.postimg.cc/9f8QLrQb/outside.jpg

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 3 08:19:06 2021
    A bunch of stuff:

    a) It is never a good idea to use a standard lead-acid car battery inside a house or other enclosed area. Writing for myself, I would not even charge such a battery in a closed garage.
    b) A phone charger draws only a tiny bit of current relative to a standard car battery in otherwise good condition.
    c) Eschew needless complexity. Rich nailed it - get a simple clip-on device to a standard OTC charger device, and have-at.

    Or, if a belt, suspenders and Velcro is required, get a charging station/jump-starter (US$60 - $100) and be ready for a long black-out.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to RonTheGuy on Sun Oct 3 11:12:45 2021
    On Sun, 3 Oct 2021 03:07:32 -0800, RonTheGuy <ron@null.invalid> wrote:

    On Oct 03, 2021, Jeff Liebermann wrote
    (in article<news:5m2ilghnt0fb0udgn3mrv7jnqhuhfsdvpg@4ax.com>):
    My apologies for providing such vague information, but you haven't
    volunteered any model numbers, specification, or measurements for me
    to do much more than approximate. Fortunately, the calculation above
    is easy enough to modify.

    My apologies. Here is a photo of the insides and the model number plate. >https://i.postimg.cc/pVgpNhY1/inside.jpg >https://i.postimg.cc/9f8QLrQb/outside.jpg

    I have an old DVR (buried somewhere) that looks similar to the one in
    your photo. I can't see a tiny fan in your photo, but if it's like
    mine, the fan burns out every year and has to be replaced.
    Fortunately, I have a large number of fans.

    The power supply connector inside is a SATA power connector that's
    intended to only power a single SATA hard disk drive. In other words,
    I have no idea how much power can be provided by the 5V line or USB
    port. I assume the USB port will do at least 0.5A charge current,
    which will work with most phones, but will be depressingly slow.

    The label is marked "Output 12V 2A". I can't tell what they mean by
    that. Is that actually the input from the external AC power supply
    "brick" that you haven't mentioned? Or is it the power supply voltage
    needed to power the various external cameras? My guess it's the
    "brick" output voltage and current, but I'm not sure.

    Rather than try to figure it out, I again suggest that you give up on
    the idea of using the DVR or its power supply, and connect a USB
    cigarette lighter adapter to your 12V battery. That's roughly how I
    made it through the latest PG&E power outages. Want me to post a
    photo of my messy setup?


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Ralph Phillips@21:1/5 to RonTheGuy on Sun Oct 3 21:50:05 2021
    On 10/2/2021 8:03 PM, RonTheGuy wrote:

    The Lorex DVR will output to the two USB A ports to charge my phone.
    There is no car involved. Sorry for the confusion. I didn't explain well.

    The only question, really, is whether the car battery itself can power the Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 sufficient for the two USB-A ports to work.

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.


    That sounds like Rube Goldberging it.

    I'd suggest, instead, something like https://smile.amazon.com/StickyDeal-2-Pack-Converter-Adapter-Step-Down/dp/B09B2Y71F7/
    .

    I have several that are shaped into a accessory-jack sized housing wired
    into my dash; and a couple of flat buck converter boards around for
    extra USB ports in my truck. Same thing will work for your charging at
    the house.

    THESE are encapsulated to keep any short damage out.

    And avoids the load of that DVR on the battery while charging the phone.

    RwP

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 3 20:50:41 2021
    On Sun, 3 Oct 2021 21:50:05 -0500, Ralph Phillips <ralphp@philent.biz>
    wrote:

    On 10/2/2021 8:03 PM, RonTheGuy wrote:

    The Lorex DVR will output to the two USB A ports to charge my phone.
    There is no car involved. Sorry for the confusion. I didn't explain well.

    The only question, really, is whether the car battery itself can power the >> Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 sufficient for the two USB-A ports to work.

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.

    That sounds like Rube Goldberging it.

    I'd suggest, instead, something like >https://smile.amazon.com/StickyDeal-2-Pack-Converter-Adapter-Step-Down/dp/B09B2Y71F7/
    .

    I have several that are shaped into a accessory-jack sized housing wired
    into my dash; and a couple of flat buck converter boards around for
    extra USB ports in my truck. Same thing will work for your charging at
    the house.

    THESE are encapsulated to keep any short damage out.

    And avoids the load of that DVR on the battery while charging the phone.

    RwP

    I agree. Much better. I just ordered two of them on eBay: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/321645899181>
    Time to get rid of the cigarette igniter to USB adapter, hose clamp,
    and clip lead abomination. I was going to build my own from one of
    the buck inverter boards found on eBay, but this looks better. Thanks.

    Also, I forgot to mumble that I have several large "USB power bank"
    devices made to power smartphones. Something like these: <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=usb+battery+power+bank> <https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+power+bank&tbm=isch>
    I bought most of mine at a garage sale, where the former owner somehow
    killed most of the 18650 LiIon cells. They were moderately easy to
    replace with a (borrowed) spot welder and some nickel flat wire.

    While USB power banks do not have the capacity of a lead-acid car
    battery, they also don't have the potential to make a giant mess. I've
    charged various lead acid and AGM batteries on my Formica workbench,
    Formica computer desk, and oak kitchen table. I ruined them all with
    acid burns. I've never had a hydrogen explosion indoors, but have
    seen two in various automobiles (not mine). I now do all my storage
    battery charging outdoors: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/DuroMax%20XP4400E.jpg> <http://www.dekabatteries.com/assets/base/0008DekaLG.pdf>
    Note the lack of battery fill plugs and vents. If a spark gets into
    that battery, it's likely to blow the top or a side off the battery.
    Best to be very careful, very safe, and charge hydrogen gas belching
    batteries outdoors.

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Rich@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Mon Oct 4 14:36:51 2021
    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Oct 2021 21:50:05 -0500, Ralph Phillips <ralphp@philent.biz>
    wrote:

    On 10/2/2021 8:03 PM, RonTheGuy wrote:

    The Lorex DVR will output to the two USB A ports to charge my phone.
    There is no car involved. Sorry for the confusion. I didn't explain well. >>>
    The only question, really, is whether the car battery itself can power the >>> Lorex DVR Model #LH030800 sufficient for the two USB-A ports to work.

    Ron, the humblest guy in town.

    That sounds like Rube Goldberging it.

    I'd suggest, instead, something like >>https://smile.amazon.com/StickyDeal-2-Pack-Converter-Adapter-Step-Down/dp/B09B2Y71F7/
    .

    I have several that are shaped into a accessory-jack sized housing wired >>into my dash; and a couple of flat buck converter boards around for
    extra USB ports in my truck. Same thing will work for your charging at
    the house.

    THESE are encapsulated to keep any short damage out.

    And avoids the load of that DVR on the battery while charging the phone.

    RwP

    I agree. Much better. I just ordered two of them on eBay: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/321645899181>
    Time to get rid of the cigarette igniter to USB adapter, hose clamp,
    and clip lead abomination. I was going to build my own from one of
    the buck inverter boards found on eBay, but this looks better. Thanks.

    One of "Amazon's" suggestions to Ralph's suggestion was this:

    https://smile.amazon.com/StickyDeal-2-Pack-Converter-Adapter-Step-Down/dp/B09B2Y71F7/

    which matches the OP's original use perfectly. Battery clips for
    attaching to the battery and four usb charge output ports for charging "phones".

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Mon Oct 4 09:15:26 2021
    We need to understand the purpose of this group - which is to give the most complicated and unsuitable possible solution to the simplest request entirely without reference to common sense, life-safety or cost.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Terrell@21:1/5 to Peter W. on Tue Oct 5 09:46:30 2021
    On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 12:15:29 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
    We need to understand the purpose of this group - which is to give the most complicated and unsuitable possible solution to the simplest request entirely without reference to common sense, life-safety or cost.

    Peter, I've noticed that Jeff Angus hasn't posted lately. Any idea why?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Wed Oct 6 13:21:28 2021
    Peter, I've noticed that Jeff Angus hasn't posted lately. Any idea why?

    Alive and well, still in Ranger, TX.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Terrell@21:1/5 to Peter W. on Wed Oct 6 23:06:37 2021
    On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 4:21:31 PM UTC-4, Peter W. wrote:
    Peter, I've noticed that Jeff Angus hasn't posted lately. Any idea why?
    Alive and well, still in Ranger, TX.

    Thanks, I was getting a bit concerned about him. He stopped replying to me when Hillary lost the election, so it wasn't worth the time for me to try to contact him.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 10 12:07:53 2021
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  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Sun Oct 10 14:26:56 2021
    Why would anyone propose any other solution when that ebay url points
    you straight to a 2000 amp hour solar usb charger for $17.

    Because the sun is not always readily available.

    2,000 amp-hours. Really?

    The typical solar panel (good utility-grade devices) make roughly 300 watts at very roughly 37.8 volts and is a bit under two square meters. That is just under eight (8) amps. To create 2,000 amp-hours of capacity at cell-charger voltages (say, 6 volts),
    you would need in excess of 12,000 watts in total. Making 40 panels. All that for $17.00. And from Brooklyn, NY, no less.
    Now, the typical LiPo 1,200 MaH battery @ ~8VDC weighs a few ounces. A mere 1,666 of these would get you there as well.

    Does anyone read for content?

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to Bob F on Sun Oct 10 14:18:01 2021
    On Sun, 10 Oct 2021 12:07:53 -0700, Bob F <bobnospam@gmail.com> wrote:

    On 10/3/2021 8:50 PM, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    ....

    Also, I forgot to mumble that I have several large "USB power bank"
    devices made to power smartphones. Something like these:
    <https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=usb+battery+power+bank>
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=usb+power+bank&tbm=isch>
    I bought most of mine at a garage sale, where the former owner somehow
    killed most of the 18650 LiIon cells. They were moderately easy to
    replace with a (borrowed) spot welder and some nickel flat wire.

    Why would anyone propose any other solution when that ebay url points
    you straight to a 2000 amp hour solar usb charger for $17.

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/224104772302 (Tracking junk removed from URL)

    2,000,000 milli-amp-hr solar charger? It might work if it were a
    2,000,000 micro-amp-hour charger (same as a 2 Amp-hr charger). What's
    a few decimal points anyway? Inflation must really be getting out of
    control. The eBay page says that 6,165 customers bought one. Looks
    like it's already obsolete. Here is the 30,000,000 ma-hr version: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/401747105665>
    More zeros are better for sales. 10,282 sold.

    Incidentally, the 12V to 5V(USB) adapter gizmos arrived and were
    immediately put into service when the local power died for about 4
    hrs.
    <https://www.ebay.com/itm/321645899181>
    It doesn't work any better than my tangle of gel cell battery,
    cigarette igniter to USB adapter, hose clamp, and clip lead kludge,
    but is much neater and less prone to falling apart. The phone display
    says "charging rapidly" which is what I would expect from a 10 watt
    charger. This might be a problem if I wanted a Quick Charge or Power
    Deliver fast charge that I was getting from my cigarette lighter to
    USB adapter.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)