On 1/16/2023 3:34 PM, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've been
f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and
affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around
such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
Does it need a couple/few turns around the pulley?
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've been f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around
such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've been f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around
such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
See those little pulley's that handle the string? They absorb all the string's efforts if they're dragging (and get worse with string tension on them). If you can remove them, clean and polish the shafts and apply some graphite.
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've been f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around
such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
On 1/17/2023 6:57 AM, Peter W. wrote:
[...] Then, obtain a some liquid resin - such as may be found at any music store that sells violin strings and so forth. [...]Isn't it rosin that they use on bow strings?
[...] Then, obtain a some liquid resin - such as may be found at any music store that sells violin strings and so forth. [...]Isn't it rosin that they use on bow strings?
Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?Terry:
It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 6:56:11 PM UTC-5, tschw...@aol.com wrote:
Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
On Wednesday, January 18, 2023 at 6:56:11 PM UTC-5, tschw...@aol.com wrote:
Peter, do you mean liquid "rosin" as used on violin bow strings?
It actually is sold as a solid but I believe it is soluble in
alcohol. Scrape some rosin shavings into iso-propyl and apply to the
string. The alcohol will evaporate and leave the rosin in place.
Rosin is a band-aid and isn't required if it's strung properly and
friction is mitigated. You can use virtually any non-stretching
string of a similar diameter and it won't slip.
I've often thought waxed dental floss might be a solution
for dial cord. But I never had a opportunity to employ it.
On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 6:34:48 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:them (some are staked on), then run some non aggressive solvent into the shaft and spin by hand until the move with no effort. With a small jeweler's screwdriver, add some graphite to the hub and tap so the graphite gets inside the pulley. Don't "poof"
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've been f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972Friction, friction, friction... not at the drive pulley where the dial cord grabs but everywhere else.
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
You must eliminate all possible friction from everywhere in the tuning system. Make sure the tuner's bearings are free of hardened gunk and lubed. When disconnected, the tuner should only require a very light touch to rotate.
See those little pulley's that handle the string? They absorb all the string's efforts if they're dragging (and get worse with string tension on them). If you can remove them, clean and polish the shafts and apply some graphite. If you can't remove
A lot of guys miss the dial indicator.. they're usually just folded metal that slide along the metal dial scale. Those things drag like you won't believe. Sometimes the dial might have a piece of folded fish paper inside as a bearing, but many don't.In any case, clean and polish the edge of the dial with an abrasive if need be to form a highly polished bearing surface. Rub some graphite into the area right where the dial slides along. Careful not to get graphite on the dial itself (unsightly).
Before restringing, get a Q-Tip/ISO and clean the drive pulley shaft and all secondary pulleys of lube or wayward graphite. If you excise all possible friction, you'll find it will tune with no dragging, jerking, or stopping even with less turns aroundthe drive pulley than the diagram calls for (resist the temptation of adding more turns than it calls for - it only causes windup binding).
I've had people pooh-pooh this advice and end up giving me the radio to restring because they don't believe that tiny amount of friction will prevent the dial cord from grabbing.
On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 9:56:42 AM UTC-5, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:them (some are staked on), then run some non aggressive solvent into the shaft and spin by hand until the move with no effort. With a small jeweler's screwdriver, add some graphite to the hub and tap so the graphite gets inside the pulley. Don't "poof"
On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 6:34:48 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've beenFriction, friction, friction... not at the drive pulley where the dial cord grabs but everywhere else.
f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and
affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around
such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
You must eliminate all possible friction from everywhere in the tuning system. Make sure the tuner's bearings are free of hardened gunk and lubed. When disconnected, the tuner should only require a very light touch to rotate.
See those little pulley's that handle the string? They absorb all the string's efforts if they're dragging (and get worse with string tension on them). If you can remove them, clean and polish the shafts and apply some graphite. If you can't remove
In any case, clean and polish the edge of the dial with an abrasive if need be to form a highly polished bearing surface. Rub some graphite into the area right where the dial slides along. Careful not to get graphite on the dial itself (unsightly).
A lot of guys miss the dial indicator.. they're usually just folded metal that slide along the metal dial scale. Those things drag like you won't believe. Sometimes the dial might have a piece of folded fish paper inside as a bearing, but many don't.
around the drive pulley than the diagram calls for (resist the temptation of adding more turns than it calls for - it only causes windup binding).
Before restringing, get a Q-Tip/ISO and clean the drive pulley shaft and all secondary pulleys of lube or wayward graphite. If you excise all possible friction, you'll find it will tune with no dragging, jerking, or stopping even with less turns
I've had people pooh-pooh this advice and end up giving me the radio to restring because they don't believe that tiny amount of friction will prevent the dial cord from grabbing.
Thank you!! After reading this, a light bullb went off and I decided
to pull out a troublesome Philco that has always slipped. I had some
guys at Kutztown restring it about 5 years ago and it worked for a few
days and started slipping again, so I stopped using it. Nothing more frustrating than trying to change the station or even tweaking the
tuning as it drifts after an hour of use. They put on some liquid
which was probably rosin and it worked great at the table. Too bad it
didn't last. You were right about the pulleys. With the dial string
removed they spun freely but putting either a little side pressure or
up pressure on them where they might butt up against the peened top
made them stiffen right up. That is probably why the heavier the
spring I tried the worse it got. I used the wide end of a flat
toothpick to tap in a bit of graphite moly powder i had kicking around
from Pinewood derby between the pulleys and the shafts, and now the
pulleys spin easily even when I side load them. I also found the top
rail of the dial binding when I pushed down on it just like you said.
I used a small needle file and dressed the top edge and then sanded it
smooth and rubbed in some graphite with a qtip so I wouldn't get any
on the dial face and now the dial indicator pushes smooth even when I
put pressure on it. The tuner itself seemed free but I added a couple
of drops of light synthetic oil to the bearings anyway. My Philco now
tunes like butter and I can even put my thumb on the big tuner pulley
and it still pulls the tuner through. I can now tune and fine tune
this radio for the first time ever. Thanks so much. I will do this
with every radio I have from now on.
On Tuesday, January 17, 2023 at 9:56:42 AM UTC-5, ohg...@gmail.com wrote:them (some are staked on), then run some non aggressive solvent into the shaft and spin by hand until the move with no effort. With a small jeweler's screwdriver, add some graphite to the hub and tap so the graphite gets inside the pulley. Don't "poof"
On Monday, January 16, 2023 at 6:34:48 PM UTC-5, Cursitor Doom wrote:
Anyone successfully done this? If so, what's the secret? I've been f***-arsing around for 4 hours today trying to do one on a 1972Friction, friction, friction... not at the drive pulley where the dial cord grabs but everywhere else.
Grundig portable FM/AM radio and got nowhere. The design is most of
the problem. For some reason, the drive pully is completely smooth and affords no grip to the cord whatsoever, so the thing just slips around such that the pointer only moves when it can get a bit of traction.
What a f***ing joke.
You must eliminate all possible friction from everywhere in the tuning system. Make sure the tuner's bearings are free of hardened gunk and lubed. When disconnected, the tuner should only require a very light touch to rotate.
See those little pulley's that handle the string? They absorb all the string's efforts if they're dragging (and get worse with string tension on them). If you can remove them, clean and polish the shafts and apply some graphite. If you can't remove
In any case, clean and polish the edge of the dial with an abrasive if need be to form a highly polished bearing surface. Rub some graphite into the area right where the dial slides along. Careful not to get graphite on the dial itself (unsightly).A lot of guys miss the dial indicator.. they're usually just folded metal that slide along the metal dial scale. Those things drag like you won't believe. Sometimes the dial might have a piece of folded fish paper inside as a bearing, but many don't.
around the drive pulley than the diagram calls for (resist the temptation of adding more turns than it calls for - it only causes windup binding).Before restringing, get a Q-Tip/ISO and clean the drive pulley shaft and all secondary pulleys of lube or wayward graphite. If you excise all possible friction, you'll find it will tune with no dragging, jerking, or stopping even with less turns
I've had people pooh-pooh this advice and end up giving me the radio to restring because they don't believe that tiny amount of friction will prevent the dial cord from grabbing.
After reading this, a light bullb went off and I decided to pull out a troublesome Philco that has always slipped. ...... I also found the top rail of the dial binding when I pushed down on it just like you said. I used a small needle file and dressedthe top edge and then sanded it smooth and rubbed in some graphite with a qtip so I wouldn't get any on the dial face and now the dial indicator pushes smooth even when I put pressure on it.....Thanks so much. I will do this with every radio I have from
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