• Re: Is battery leakage suddenly more common?

    From danny burstein@21:1/5 to Tim R on Thu Jul 21 00:06:39 2022
    In <6717f0c9-7259-4ec4-a82e-fc5edab333a1n@googlegroups.com> Tim R <timothy42bach@gmail.com> writes:

    I went to replace the AA in a kitchen timer and found it had leaked out of both ends.

    I think I've had more of these leak in the past year or so than in the previous ten. Is there something different in manufacture, or am I just unlucky?

    I noticed this starting about 15 years ago. The first time
    was with a bunch of Sears Die Hard branded AA's and D's.

    A couple of years later I ran into this with name brand
    Duracell and Everready.

    I suspect just about all these companies now just
    slap their label on "cheapest supplier of the week"...


    --
    _____________________________________________________
    Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
    dannyb@panix.com
    [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

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  • From Tim R@21:1/5 to All on Wed Jul 20 17:01:36 2022
    I went to replace the AA in a kitchen timer and found it had leaked out of both ends.

    I think I've had more of these leak in the past year or so than in the previous ten. Is there something different in manufacture, or am I just unlucky?

    I usually take batteries out of stuff I won't need right away but they've been leaking in a plastic bag anyway.

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to timothy42bach@gmail.com on Wed Jul 20 20:25:57 2022
    On Wed, 20 Jul 2022 17:01:36 -0700 (PDT), Tim R
    <timothy42bach@gmail.com> wrote:

    I went to replace the AA in a kitchen timer and found it had leaked out of both ends.
    I think I've had more of these leak in the past year or so than in the previous ten. Is there something different in manufacture, or am I just unlucky?
    I usually take batteries out of stuff I won't need right away but they've been leaking in a plastic bag anyway.

    These AAA alkaline cells were made in 2007. This is what they looked
    like in about 2016 or 2017: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>
    Not much has changed since then. I typically purchase batteries in
    lots of 50 or more. I've noticed that all the batteries from a single
    lot act much in the same way. In other words, they all leak at the
    same time. With some lots, I get lucky and they never leak. Others,
    like those in the photos, will leak while still in the bubble package.
    The SoC (state of charge) doesn't seem to matter. I'm finding almost discharged and unused batteries start to leak at the same time.
    Temperature does make a difference. Alkaline cells stored in the
    refrigerator (not freezer) last longer before they leak, but will
    eventually leak anyway.

    Over the years, I've systematically removed alkaline batteries from my equipment and replaced them with whatever is appropriate. I've had
    good luck with Energizer Ultimate Lithium cells. They're expensive,
    but so it the equipment a leaky battery will ruin. <https://www.energizer.com/about-batteries/no-leaks-guarantee> <https://www.energizer.com/about-batteries/battery-leakage>

    For most everything else, I've switched to either NiMH, LiIon, or LiPo rechargeable cells. For LiIon and LiPo, I install voltage dropping
    diodes, a regulator IC, or something to bring the voltage down to
    something that won't destroy the electronics. NiMH is close enough to
    alkaline cell voltage that it can be used without modification.

    For 9V batteries, I use the 600ma-hr LiPo rechargeable replacements: <https://www.ebay.com/itm/124977792380>
    Quality sucks, prices have doubled to $8/ea, but long term cost of
    ownership is still much better than having alkaline batteries trash my equipment. Besides being rechargeable, they LiIon and LiPo will hold
    their charge for a long time. It's nice having an almost fully
    charged battery ready when I decide to use a rarely used piece of
    equipment.



    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Bill Gill@21:1/5 to Tim R on Thu Jul 21 08:24:03 2022
    On 7/20/2022 7:01 PM, Tim R wrote:
    I went to replace the AA in a kitchen timer and found it had leaked out of both ends.

    I think I've had more of these leak in the past year or so than in the previous ten. Is there something different in manufacture, or am I just unlucky?

    I usually take batteries out of stuff I won't need right away but they've been leaking in a plastic bag anyway.
    I have had bad luck with Duracell batteries. They seem to leak when
    used in items that are low usage. The emergency flashlight in my bedside
    table and the batteries in my thermostat for example. I have had to
    spend quite a bit of time, off and on, cleaning contacts when I used
    Duracell.

    Now I always use Energizer batteries. I have never had any of them
    leak.

    Bill

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  • From Tim R@21:1/5 to Tim R on Thu Jul 21 10:11:49 2022
    On Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 8:01:39 PM UTC-4, Tim R wrote:
    I went to replace the AA in a kitchen timer and found it had leaked out of both ends.

    I think I've had more of these leak in the past year or so than in the previous ten. Is there something different in manufacture, or am I just unlucky?

    My aging brain had made an invalid comparison to fuel oil.
    Back in the mid 90's I was an engineer working on an underground storage tank replacement for the military, trying to meet the new tank requirements. Back then the military had a requirement for redundant backups, and some buildings had large fuel oil
    storage even if they'd been converted to gas. I ended up digging up a couple hundred tanks and only replacing about 20 of the big ones, which were refilled with fresh #2 fuel oil. Some of the old oil had been unused for decades but it was still good;
    disposal was cheap because it was all recyclable. One of those tanks needed to be removed again a few years later when the building was demolished. That oil had decomposed due to biological action. There was more than a foot of jello on the bottom. I
    did some research and found the chemistry of fuel oil had changed during that time period and it was not as stable.

    Sorry for the trip down memory lane. That was a good project, I brought it in 2 years early and $2 million under budget, my boss got promoted. (and eventually I became the boss so it all worked out)

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  • From Dave Platt@21:1/5 to billnews2@cox.net on Thu Jul 21 10:46:36 2022
    In article <tbbk1k$2cu7r$1@dont-email.me>,
    Bill Gill <billnews2@cox.net> wrote:

    I have had bad luck with Duracell batteries. They seem to leak when
    used in items that are low usage. The emergency flashlight in my bedside >table and the batteries in my thermostat for example. I have had to
    spend quite a bit of time, off and on, cleaning contacts when I used >Duracell.

    Now I always use Energizer batteries. I have never had any of them
    leak.

    I've had a similar experience, both with Duracell, and with the Costco
    Kirkland house-brand batteries which are reputed to be made by the
    Duracell plants. The first Kirkland batteries I bought (for some years)
    were fine, but in the last 5 years or more they've been prone to leak
    in those low-usage applications.

    What I've heard is that this leakage problem is tied to the removal of
    mercury from the alkaline-battery chemistry. In the older batteries,
    a small amount of a mercury compound acts as some sort of scavenger in
    the electrochemistry, binding up one of the post-discharge chemical
    products somehow. Without the mercury, even a partial discharge of
    the battery triggers a corrosive process which attacks the metal
    in the battery's outer shell, and leaks result.

    I've even had Kirkland AA batteries leak while still in the original
    package, well before their "best by" date, when they hadn't ever
    been discharged at all.

    I've been buying Energizer AA and AAA alkalines more recently and have
    not had leak problems. Buying the "industrial" versions in bulk seems
    to be the way to go - they're the same batteries as the consumer
    blister-pack versions (according to the manufacturer) but are distinctly cheaper.

    The best reliability and lifetime seems to come from the "Ultimate"
    lithium AA and AAA cells. They're pricey (again, best to buy in
    bulk) but I have yet to have any leak, at any level of discharge.

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to peterwieck33@gmail.com on Thu Jul 21 12:04:24 2022
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 11:34:50 -0700 (PDT), "Peter W."
    <peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:

    I have a rather simple-minded approach to batteries, and so far that has paid off:
    a) Use Name-Brand only. Those that guarantee 'full replacement' of any item damaged by their failure. No others, no matter how attractive the price.
    b) Do not leave standard (non-hard-wired rechargeable) batteries in-situ unless they are checked every six (6) months.
    c) Pay attention to self-discharge rates when choosing types.
    d) Pay attention to date-codes.
    e) Dispose of 'spent' batteries as hazardous landfill - our township accepts any and all sorts of batteries from all residents at no cost.

    Pretty much covers it.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    May I suggest a few additions to your list:
    f) Watch out for "phantom loads" or "parasitic drain", where the
    device does not quite turn off completely and slowly discharges the
    battery. Digital calipers are a common example.
    g) Make a list of every device you own that contains a battery with
    the potential of leaking. When I first did this, I had over 200
    gizmos that required regular inspection. As I started replacing
    alkaline cells with rechargeable cells (that don't leak), the list is
    now down to about 40 gizmos.
    h) The local landfill takes batteries, but requires that 9V battery
    terminals be insulated with tape. Apparently, they had a problem.
    This is what happened when a friend shorted a 9V alkaline Duracell: <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/pics/Duracell/index.html>
    i) Store new batteries in the fridge. That slows down any internal
    chemical reactions that might corrode the battery. Don't forget to
    let them warm to room temperature before using.
    j) Select your battery charger carefully. Overcharging will kill
    batteries.

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jul 21 11:34:50 2022
    I have a rather simple-minded approach to batteries, and so far that has paid off:
    a) Use Name-Brand only. Those that guarantee 'full replacement' of any item damaged by their failure. No others, no matter how attractive the price.
    b) Do not leave standard (non-hard-wired rechargeable) batteries in-situ unless they are checked every six (6) months.
    c) Pay attention to self-discharge rates when choosing types.
    d) Pay attention to date-codes.
    e) Dispose of 'spent' batteries as hazardous landfill - our township accepts any and all sorts of batteries from all residents at no cost.

    Pretty much covers it.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

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  • From danny burstein@21:1/5 to Peter W. on Thu Jul 21 19:00:48 2022
    In <cac3b67b-b3b5-483a-b2ae-923c773fe557n@googlegroups.com> "Peter W." <peterwieck33@gmail.com> writes:

    I have a rather simple-minded approach to batteries, and so far that has paid off:
    [snip]

    Pretty much covers it.

    I _love_ the (yeah, they're cheap) LED flashlights
    that have a "three cell holder" for the AA/AAAs.

    I pull out the holder, place the cells in it,
    then put the flashlight and the holder, separately,
    into a Ziplock brand Baggie...

    It's just a matter of five seconds to put it
    back together

    --
    _____________________________________________________
    Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
    dannyb@panix.com
    [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to Platt on Thu Jul 21 11:19:38 2022
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 10:46:36 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave
    Platt) wrote:

    What I've heard is that this leakage problem is tied to the removal of >mercury from the alkaline-battery chemistry. In the older batteries,
    a small amount of a mercury compound acts as some sort of scavenger in
    the electrochemistry, binding up one of the post-discharge chemical
    products somehow. Without the mercury, even a partial discharge of
    the battery triggers a corrosive process which attacks the metal
    in the battery's outer shell, and leaks result.

    That's also what I've heard. However, I can't seem to find any
    research reports or papers on the topic of lead (stabilizer) in
    alkaline cells. So far, this is what I've collected:

    This article, from 1999 has some details and is the source of quite a
    bit of the cut-n-paste vague comments on lead in alkaline cells: <https://www.rfglobalnet.com/doc/lithium-battery-power-sources-for-remote-or-p-0001>
    <https://www.custompower.com/alkaline-batteries> <https://www.pmbl.co.uk/alkaline-batteries>
    "In the early 90s, government mandate ruled out the use of mercury in
    alkaline cells providing a major challenge to manufacturers. Mercury,
    an environmental pollutant, was used in alkaline batteries as an anti-passivation stabilizer for the zinc electrode. Without mercury,
    chemical processes within the battery cause the zinc to function less efficiently as discharge proceeds because of passivation of zinc
    surface, thus limiting useful battery life. Manufacturers, such as
    Energizer and Duracell rose to the challenge and we now have mercury
    free cells that function just as well as their predecessors."

    More recent stuff from the EPA:
    <https://www.epa.gov/mercury/mercury-batteries>

    "IMERC Fact Sheet Mercury Use in Batteries" (2015) <https://www.newmoa.org/prevention/mercury/imerc/factsheets/batteries_2015.pdf> "Gas can form in all of these types of button batteries due to the
    corrosion of zinc. Zinc in the battery gets corroded into the
    electrolyte as the battery is used. This corrosion can cause
    electrolysis and can cause the generation of hydrogen gas in the
    canister. Build-up of hydrogen gas can cause the battery to leak,
    limiting the ability of the battery to function. Mercury suppresses
    this zinc corrosion, which is why it is added to button-cell
    batteries. These batteries may contain mercury in the insulating paper surrounding the battery, or mercury may be mixed in the anode itself.
    Any chance you have some references or maybe a research report? I've
    been chasing this one for years without any luck.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Dave Platt@21:1/5 to jeffl@cruzio.com on Thu Jul 21 12:17:35 2022
    In article <ka4jdh5osisg7fv9q19f6kn7bskosv9s7e@4ax.com>,
    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

    Any chance you have some references or maybe a research report? I've
    been chasing this one for years without any luck.

    Nope, I'm afraid not. All I have is diffusion-of-story, not anywhere
    near as concentrated as the two boluses you just cited :-)

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to Platt on Thu Jul 21 14:53:28 2022
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 12:17:35 -0700, dplatt@coop.radagast.org (Dave
    Platt) wrote:

    In article <ka4jdh5osisg7fv9q19f6kn7bskosv9s7e@4ax.com>,
    Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> wrote:

    Any chance you have some references or maybe a research report? I've
    been chasing this one for years without any luck.

    Nope, I'm afraid not. All I have is diffusion-of-story, not anywhere
    near as concentrated as the two boluses you just cited :-)

    Oh well. I would expect that the invention of lead free batteries of
    various types would be patentable. Yet, when I've dived into the
    patent pool and searched for such a miraculous invention, I find
    nothing. I might try again if time permits. Thanks.

    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Charles Lucas@21:1/5 to timoth...@gmail.com on Thu Jul 21 19:24:31 2022
    On Wednesday, July 20, 2022 at 7:01:39 PM UTC-5, timoth...@gmail.com wrote:
    I went to replace the AA in a kitchen timer and found it had leaked out of both ends.

    I think I've had more of these leak in the past year or so than in the previous ten. Is there something different in manufacture, or am I just unlucky?

    In my google search "has the quality of alkaline batteries gotten worse over time", several different
    sites come up including popular mechanics. Click on or copy the link from below:

    Why Your Gadgets' Batteries Degrade Over Time

    https://www.popularmechanics.com/technology/gadgets/how-to/a7432/why-your-gadgets-batteries-degrade-over-time-6705747/

    https://www.google.com/search?q=has+quality+of+alkaline+batteries+gotten+worse+over+time&rlz=1C1GCEA_enUS952US960&oq=has+quality+of+alkaline+batteries+gotten+worse&aqs=chrome.2.69i57j33i160l2j33i299.22003j0j15&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8#:~:text=https%3A//
    www.rd.com/article/shouldnt%2Dbuy%2Dbatteries%2Ddollar%2Dstore/

    What I gleaned from reading the content on these links is that even with the best conditions, you will have
    a dead battery in 3-4 years. They recommend rechargeable batteries best. The "Rayovac" brand primarily is
    the worst and leaks the most (in most cases- except for one). The dollar store batteries are made with zinc
    and another chemical are not recommended and do not last as long.

    The key is alkaline batteries are good, but they have gone up in price. For the costs involved, you
    can get a rechargeable battery and have it be more serviceable in the long run. If you are dead set
    on getting or using alkaline batteries as many devices say you can use, you may consider getting
    an alkaline battery charger, so you can pull the batteries out of the device and utilize the charger
    to charge them. The chargers will even do 9-volt alkaline batteries as well. With batteries running
    up in cost to $5.00 each for alkaline, it is not a bad idea to get an alkaline recharger device, if you
    use alkaline batteries.

    For long term storage, the recommendations for batteries are drain the power down 50% of duty
    cycle (power capacity). Store in a cool place (refrigeration). When you go to use them, you need
    to charge them up full on a trickle charge or use the recharger. Make sure they are at 100% before
    you use them and then run the down fully. Use the recharger and you are back to normal usage.

    Consider other variables, excessive heat, humidity, moisture, the deep freeze, and other conditions.
    All batteries in some way are a chemistry problem. The chemical composition each is made of has
    to factor in the appropriate application you intend to use the battery for and how often you use the
    device (especially timers and other appliances that have intermittent or from time to time use).

    Just thought I would impart this advice and encourage you to read several links from the google
    search quoted. God Bless you and have a great day.

    Sincerely,


    Charles Lucas



    I usually take batteries out of stuff I won't need right away but they've been leaking in a plastic bag anyway.

    P.S. It depends on the what materials the cases are composed of that holds the chemistry inside of the casing.
    Quality can vary. Buyer Beware and avoid sticker shock on the high prices of batteries. They have really gone up.

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  • From Peter W.@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jul 22 06:01:45 2022
    f) Watch out for "phantom loads" or "parasitic drain", where the
    device does not quite turn off completely and slowly discharges the
    battery. Digital calipers are a common example.

    Phantom (or expensive) load devices keep batteries only when in use. Even the one with the niggly little access screws.

    Starrett tools are pricey enough to make the bit of extra trouble worth it.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to peterwieck33@gmail.com on Fri Jul 22 08:10:19 2022
    On Fri, 22 Jul 2022 06:01:45 -0700 (PDT), "Peter W."
    <peterwieck33@gmail.com> wrote:

    f) Watch out for "phantom loads" or "parasitic drain", where the
    device does not quite turn off completely and slowly discharges the
    battery. Digital calipers are a common example.

    Phantom (or expensive) load devices keep batteries only when in use. Even the one with the niggly little access screws.

    Starrett tools are pricey enough to make the bit of extra trouble worth it.

    Peter Wieck
    Melrose Park, PA

    Starrett and Mitutoyo calipers are not a problem. They turn off
    completely and don't drain the battery. The problem is the cheap
    calipers commonly found on Harbor Fright, eBay and Amazon. <http://www.davehylands.com/Machinist/Caliper-Batteries/>
    Typical complaint: <https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/chinese-digital-calipers-and-battery-life.331105/>

    There are various solutions. The easiest is to simply remove the
    button cells when the calipers are not in use. That's what I do. I
    also use silver-oxide button cells instead of alkaline. Silver-oxide
    cells have a flat discharge voltage curve and will remain alive for
    longer. There are also some rather crude solutions: <https://community.glowforge.com/t/solved-cheap-calipers-draining-batteries/99493>
    Oddly, I have the calipers in the photo and they do NOT exhibit a self-discharge problem.

    I also have a pile of these calipers that were salvaged from a machine
    shop "auction". All of this style will self discharge to varying
    degrees:
    <https://www.sparkfun.com/tutorials/362>
    The big problem is loosing the plastic battery cover.

    More on the topic:
    <https://www.google.com/search?q=caliper+battery+discharge>


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

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  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to charlesandmilly@gmail.com on Fri Jul 22 08:45:22 2022
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 19:24:31 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:

    What I gleaned from reading the content on these links is that even with the best conditions, you will have
    a dead battery in 3-4 years.

    I think you're confusing different battery chemistries. Shelf life on
    alkaline batteries is guaranteed by the manufactory to be 5, 7, or 10
    years from date of manufacture depending on vendor.

    For NiMH cells, I use Eneloop LSD (low self discharge cells). I've
    tested their ability to hold a charge and found them to 80% charged at
    1 years.

    They recommend rechargeable batteries best.

    Agreed, especially LiIon or battery yet, LiFePO4.

    The "Rayovac" brand primarily is
    the worst and leaks the most (in most cases- except for one). The dollar store batteries are made with zinc
    and another chemical are not recommended and do not last as long.

    Most alkaline batteries are made with zinc. Notice how often zinc is
    mentioned in the Wikipedia article: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaline_battery>

    The key is alkaline batteries are good, but they have gone up in price. For the costs involved, you
    can get a rechargeable battery and have it be more serviceable in the long run.

    Rechargeable batteries have also increased in cost.

    If you are dead set
    on getting or using alkaline batteries as many devices say you can use, you may consider getting
    an alkaline battery charger, so you can pull the batteries out of the device and utilize the charger
    to charge them. The chargers will even do 9-volt alkaline batteries as well. With batteries running
    up in cost to $5.00 each for alkaline, it is not a bad idea to get an alkaline recharger device, if you
    use alkaline batteries.

    WRONG! Conventional alkaline cells are not rechargeable. If you
    look, I think it even says so on the package. However, there are
    rechargeable alkaline cells that can be PARTIALLY recharged. Unlike
    other rechargeable chemistries, rechargeable alkaline cells recover an
    ever decreasing percentage of full charge until they are useless. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rechargeable_alkaline_battery>
    The also have a miserable self discharge time, where they are dead if
    not used within 6 months. The combination of these "features" make rechargeable alkaline cells somewhat useless.

    For long term storage, the recommendations for batteries are drain the power down 50% of duty
    cycle (power capacity).

    That's the common recommendation for rechargeable cells. It's
    generally true for LiIon. It's not true for NiMH. In reality, the
    50% charge storage recommendation is to make the batteries safe for
    shipping:
    <https://pe.usps.com/text/pub52/pub52apxc_032.htm> <https://www.ups.com/assets/resources/media/en_US/pack_ship_batteries.pdf>
    "In accordance with IATA, all lithium ion batteries (without
    equipment) shipped by air must not exceed 30% SoC."

    Store in a cool place (refrigeration). When you go to use them, you need
    to charge them up full on a trickle charge or use the recharger.

    Not exactly. Each chemistry has its own charge profile. For example,
    the best way to kill a random battery is to "fast charge" it. Also,
    trickle chargers don't work well with some chemistries. Use a charger
    that matches the manufacturers recommendations for the battery
    chemistry.

    Make sure they are at 100% before
    you use them and then run the down fully. Use the recharger and you are back to normal usage.

    Running LiIon, NiCd, NiMH, and lead-acid batteries to zero are a great
    way to kill them. That why LiIon battery packs come with a BMS
    (battery management system) PC board to prevent you from completely
    discharging the battery. For a time, NiCd cells did have a "memory
    effect" problem which could be reversed by discharging to zero, but
    that's no longer the case with modern battery chemistries.

    Consider other variables, excessive heat, humidity, moisture, the deep freeze, and other conditions.
    All batteries in some way are a chemistry problem. The chemical composition each is made of has
    to factor in the appropriate application you intend to use the battery for and how often you use the
    device (especially timers and other appliances that have intermittent or from time to time use).

    Just thought I would impart this advice and encourage you to read several links from the google
    search quoted. God Bless you and have a great day.

    Well, you're off to a bad start in the information business. However,
    don't take it personally. Understanding the characteristics of
    various battery chemistries is tricky and often confusing. There's
    also quite a bit of bad advice on the internet. I suggest skimming
    this site for better information. There are things I disagree with on
    the site, but it's better than most:
    <https://batteryuniversity.com>

    Sincerely,


    Charles Lucas



    I usually take batteries out of stuff I won't need right away but they've been leaking in a plastic bag anyway.

    P.S. It depends on the what materials the cases are composed of that holds the chemistry inside of the casing.
    Quality can vary. Buyer Beware and avoid sticker shock on the high prices of batteries. They have really gone up.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Charles Lucas@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sat Jul 23 12:48:38 2022
    On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 10:45:32 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 19:24:31 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:

    What I gleaned from reading the content on these links is that even with the best conditions, you will have
    a dead battery in 3-4 years.
    I think you're confusing different battery chemistries. Shelf life on alkaline batteries is guaranteed by the manufactory to be 5, 7, or 10
    years from date of manufacture depending on vendor.

    Manufacturers can say anything for their marketing and to get your money out of you. I have rarely ever seen
    a product live up to its claim- especially in regards to time. Buyer Beware. I am inclined to think that in regards
    to batteries, the data about them is made up on longevity. Then it depends upon the conditions that are subjected
    to that. Tell me, who really tests these batteries anyways to determine how long they last?

    For NiMH cells, I use Eneloop LSD (low self discharge cells). I've
    tested their ability to hold a charge and found them to 80% charged at
    1 years.
    They recommend rechargeable batteries best.
    Agreed, especially LiIon or battery yet, LiFePO4.
    The "Rayovac" brand primarily is
    the worst and leaks the most (in most cases- except for one). The dollar store batteries are made with zinc
    and another chemical are not recommended and do not last as long.
    Most alkaline batteries are made with zinc. Notice how often zinc is mentioned in the Wikipedia article: <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Alkaline_battery>
    The key is alkaline batteries are good, but they have gone up in price. For the costs involved, you
    can get a rechargeable battery and have it be more serviceable in the long run.
    Rechargeable batteries have also increased in cost.
    If you are dead set
    on getting or using alkaline batteries as many devices say you can use, you may consider getting
    an alkaline battery charger, so you can pull the batteries out of the device and utilize the charger
    to charge them. The chargers will even do 9-volt alkaline batteries as well. With batteries running
    up in cost to $5.00 each for alkaline, it is not a bad idea to get an alkaline recharger device, if you
    use alkaline batteries.
    WRONG! Conventional alkaline cells are not rechargeable. If you
    look, I think it even says so on the package. However, there are
    rechargeable alkaline cells that can be PARTIALLY recharged. Unlike
    other rechargeable chemistries, rechargeable alkaline cells recover an
    ever decreasing percentage of full charge until they are useless. <https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rechargeable_alkaline_battery>
    The also have a miserable self discharge time, where they are dead if
    not used within 6 months. The combination of these "features" make rechargeable alkaline cells somewhat useless.
    For long term storage, the recommendations for batteries are drain the power down 50% of duty
    cycle (power capacity).
    That's the common recommendation for rechargeable cells. It's
    generally true for LiIon. It's not true for NiMH. In reality, the
    50% charge storage recommendation is to make the batteries safe for
    shipping:
    <https://pe.usps.com/text/pub52/pub52apxc_032.htm> <https://www.ups.com/assets/resources/media/en_US/pack_ship_batteries.pdf> "In accordance with IATA, all lithium ion batteries (without
    equipment) shipped by air must not exceed 30% SoC."
    Store in a cool place (refrigeration). When you go to use them, you need
    to charge them up full on a trickle charge or use the recharger.
    Not exactly. Each chemistry has its own charge profile. For example,
    the best way to kill a random battery is to "fast charge" it. Also,
    trickle chargers don't work well with some chemistries. Use a charger
    that matches the manufacturers recommendations for the battery
    chemistry.
    Make sure they are at 100% before
    you use them and then run the down fully. Use the recharger and you are back to normal usage.
    Running LiIon, NiCd, NiMH, and lead-acid batteries to zero are a great
    way to kill them. That why LiIon battery packs come with a BMS
    (battery management system) PC board to prevent you from completely discharging the battery. For a time, NiCd cells did have a "memory
    effect" problem which could be reversed by discharging to zero, but
    that's no longer the case with modern battery chemistries.
    Consider other variables, excessive heat, humidity, moisture, the deep freeze, and other conditions.
    All batteries in some way are a chemistry problem. The chemical composition each is made of has
    to factor in the appropriate application you intend to use the battery for and how often you use the
    device (especially timers and other appliances that have intermittent or from time to time use).

    Just thought I would impart this advice and encourage you to read several links from the google
    search quoted. God Bless you and have a great day.

    Oops! mistakes here. Correcting.

    Well, you're off to a bad start in the information business. However,
    don't take it personally. Understanding the characteristics of
    various battery chemistries is tricky and often confusing. There's
    also quite a bit of bad advice on the internet. I suggest skimming
    this site for better information. There are things I disagree with on
    the site, but it's better than most:
    <https://batteryuniversity.com>

    Will do. Thank you.
    Sincerely,


    Charles Lucas



    I usually take batteries out of stuff I won't need right away but they've been leaking in a plastic bag anyway.

    P.S. It depends on the what materials the cases are composed of that holds the chemistry inside of the casing.
    Quality can vary. Buyer Beware and avoid sticker shock on the high prices of batteries. They have really gone up.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    Jeff,

    I really appreciate the information you had posted on the different battery chemistries out there. Yes,
    they are confusing. I am not a chemist (although I know batteries require chemicals to work and that
    they work within a range of temperatures and specific gravities)- I am a tech. Different batteries do a
    bit of a different kind of thing, even though there are variations all over the place. I appreciate the
    information.

    Sincerely,


    Charles Lucas

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to charlesandmilly@gmail.com on Sat Jul 23 14:25:46 2022
    On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 12:48:38 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:

    On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 10:45:32 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 19:24:31 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas
    <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:

    What I gleaned from reading the content on these links is that even with the best conditions, you will have
    a dead battery in 3-4 years.
    I think you're confusing different battery chemistries. Shelf life on
    alkaline batteries is guaranteed by the manufactory to be 5, 7, or 10
    years from date of manufacture depending on vendor.

    Manufacturers can say anything for their marketing and to get your money out of you. I have rarely ever seen
    a product live up to its claim- especially in regards to time. Buyer Beware. I am inclined to think that in regards
    to batteries, the data about them is made up on longevity. Then it depends upon the conditions that are subjected
    to that. Tell me, who really tests these batteries anyways to determine how long they last?

    Well, just about any manufacturer that wants to sell products in the
    USA or EU dreads the day when they receive a letter from an attorney
    announcing a class action lawsuit on behalf of a currently unspecified
    mob of "victims" by their product not living up to advertised
    specifications. <https://www.reuters.com/article/us-energizer-duracell-lawsuit/duracell-energizer-end-lawsuits-over-battery-life-claims-idUSKBN28H2XM>
    If Costco or Kirkland specifies a 7-year *SHELF* life for their AAA
    alkaline cells, they had better be certain that the batteries will not
    be dead on arrival after 7 years of sitting on the shelf. <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>
    I'm dead tired right now and don't want to go looking for battery test
    methods and standards. There should be something in here: <https://espec.com/na/chamber_faq/answer/battery_test_methods_and_specifications>
    <https://batterystandards.info> <https://www.ul.com/services/battery-safety-testing>
    Lots of battery test labs found using Google: <https://www.google.com/search?q=battery+test+lab>

    I guess I should mention that the "life" of a battery is rather
    ambiguous. The first questions is which life test?
    Shelf life, run time, cycle life (number of charge cycles) and all the aforementioned lives under adverse environmental conditions (hot,
    cold, humidity, immersion, altitude, various gases, explosion proof,
    etc). <https://www.batteryuniverse.com/blog/battery-efficiency/how-long-should-batteries-last/>
    I would NOT expect to see laboratory test results for batteries found
    on eBay or Amazon, but retail, industrial, commercial, aviation,
    construction, and other mission critical applications demand lab tests
    and certifications before they'll buy anything that might ruin their
    day.

    I really appreciate the information you had posted on the different battery chemistries out there. Yes,
    they are confusing. I am not a chemist (although I know batteries require chemicals to work and that
    they work within a range of temperatures and specific gravities)- I am a tech. Different batteries do a
    bit of a different kind of thing, even though there are variations all over the place. I appreciate the
    information.

    Y'er welcome. Much of what I've done in my checkered past has
    involved some flavor of chemistry. I survived some classes in
    college, but the rest I learned by reading the books and "Learn by
    Destroying". I still have the scorch marks on my Formica workbench
    and oak kitchen table. I'm retired now, so I spend my time watching
    others repeat my mistakes on YouTube. However, you don't really need
    to know much about chemistry to work with batteries. I believe it's
    more important to learn about the electronics that are wrapped around
    the battery and which are used to charge the battery. For example,
    the all important ESR (equivalent series resistance), which is the
    basis for what separates a good battery from a dead battery, can be
    understood and used without much knowledge of the chemical reactions
    involved.

    I mentioned Battery University. I think you'll also find these sites interesting and useful:
    <https://www.candlepowerforums.com>
    <https://budgetlightforum.com>

    Good luck.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Charles Lucas@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sun Jul 24 13:35:00 2022
    On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:25:56 PM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 12:48:38 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:

    On Friday, July 22, 2022 at 10:45:32 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Thu, 21 Jul 2022 19:24:31 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas
    <charles...@gmail.com> wrote:

    What I gleaned from reading the content on these links is that even with the best conditions, you will have
    a dead battery in 3-4 years.
    I think you're confusing different battery chemistries. Shelf life on
    alkaline batteries is guaranteed by the manufactory to be 5, 7, or 10
    years from date of manufacture depending on vendor.

    Manufacturers can say anything for their marketing and to get your money out of you. I have rarely ever seen
    a product live up to its claim- especially in regards to time. Buyer Beware. I am inclined to think that in regards
    to batteries, the data about them is made up on longevity. Then it depends upon the conditions that are subjected
    to that. Tell me, who really tests these batteries anyways to determine how long they last?
    Well, just about any manufacturer that wants to sell products in the
    USA or EU dreads the day when they receive a letter from an attorney announcing a class action lawsuit on behalf of a currently unspecified
    mob of "victims" by their product not living up to advertised
    specifications. <https://www.reuters.com/article/us-energizer-duracell-lawsuit/duracell-energizer-end-lawsuits-over-battery-life-claims-idUSKBN28H2XM>
    If Costco or Kirkland specifies a 7-year *SHELF* life for their AAA
    alkaline cells, they had better be certain that the batteries will not
    be dead on arrival after 7 years of sitting on the shelf. <http://www.learnbydestroying.com/jeffl/crud/Kirkland-AAA-leak.jpg>
    I'm dead tired right now and don't want to go looking for battery test methods and standards. There should be something in here: <https://espec.com/na/chamber_faq/answer/battery_test_methods_and_specifications>
    <https://batterystandards.info> <https://www.ul.com/services/battery-safety-testing>
    Lots of battery test labs found using Google: <https://www.google.com/search?q=battery+test+lab>

    I guess I should mention that the "life" of a battery is rather
    ambiguous. The first questions is which life test?
    Shelf life, run time, cycle life (number of charge cycles) and all the aforementioned lives under adverse environmental conditions (hot,
    cold, humidity, immersion, altitude, various gases, explosion proof,
    etc). <https://www.batteryuniverse.com/blog/battery-efficiency/how-long-should-batteries-last/>
    I would NOT expect to see laboratory test results for batteries found
    on eBay or Amazon, but retail, industrial, commercial, aviation, construction, and other mission critical applications demand lab tests
    and certifications before they'll buy anything that might ruin their
    day.
    I really appreciate the information you had posted on the different battery chemistries out there. Yes,
    they are confusing. I am not a chemist (although I know batteries require chemicals to work and that
    they work within a range of temperatures and specific gravities)- I am a tech. Different batteries do a
    bit of a different kind of thing, even though there are variations all over the place. I appreciate the
    information.
    Y'er welcome. Much of what I've done in my checkered past has
    involved some flavor of chemistry. I survived some classes in
    college, but the rest I learned by reading the books and "Learn by Destroying". I still have the scorch marks on my Formica workbench
    and oak kitchen table. I'm retired now, so I spend my time watching
    others repeat my mistakes on YouTube. However, you don't really need
    to know much about chemistry to work with batteries. I believe it's
    more important to learn about the electronics that are wrapped around
    the battery and which are used to charge the battery. For example,
    the all important ESR (equivalent series resistance), which is the
    basis for what separates a good battery from a dead battery, can be understood and used without much knowledge of the chemical reactions involved.

    I mentioned Battery University. I think you'll also find these sites interesting and useful:
    <https://www.candlepowerforums.com>
    <https://budgetlightforum.com>

    Good luck.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    I really appreciate the greats lengths you went to in your explanation. I am going to the sites
    you recommended to learn more. I did have a nagging question. In the late 1980's and into
    the early 1990's, Radio Shack actually sold an alkaline battery "recharger", or so they called
    it, for around $50.00 retail back then. They stated it will recharge alkaline batteries despite the
    responses you made to the contrary in your replies. Would you clarify what this product
    - the alkaline battery 'recharger' as Archer claims it was- actually did then since this
    company actually made that claim? I even bought one- although it was 30 years ago when I
    did. This is a mystery I would like to solve. Also, by asking this, I am not going contrary to
    what you said- I would just like to know to put the issue to bed for good. I really appreciate
    your valued opinion and request your clarification on this.

    Sincerely,


    Charles Lucas

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to charlesandmilly@gmail.com on Sun Jul 24 15:36:10 2022
    On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 13:35:00 -0700 (PDT), Charles Lucas <charlesandmilly@gmail.com> wrote:

    In the late 1980's and into
    the early 1990's, Radio Shack actually sold an alkaline battery "recharger", or so they called
    it, for around $50.00 retail back then. They stated it will recharge alkaline batteries despite the
    responses you made to the contrary in your replies. Would you clarify what this product
    - the alkaline battery 'recharger' as Archer claims it was- actually did then since this
    company actually made that claim? I even bought one- although it was 30 years ago when I
    did. This is a mystery I would like to solve. Also, by asking this, I am not going contrary to
    what you said- I would just like to know to put the issue to bed for good. I really appreciate
    your valued opinion and request your clarification on this.

    "Did Radio Shack sell alkaline battery chargers?" <https://www.google.com/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+%22alkaline%22+battery+chargers%3F&tbm=isch>
    <https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+alkaline+battery+chargers%3F&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle>
    Nothing found. If Google and Bing can't find it, it doesn't exist.
    The double quotes in the Google search means that the word "alkaline"
    must be found in the results.

    I don't recall seeing any Radio Shack conventional alkaline chargers.
    They did sell chargers that were intended to charge alkaline
    rechargeable batteries such as Rayovac Renewals batteries. <https://www.google.com/search?q=rayovac+renewal+power+station&tbm=isch>

    Radio Shack did sell a fair number of "Universal" charger models.
    However, RS was very careful to specify the type of battery chemistry
    that could be recharged.

    However, there were a few chargers that didn't clearly specify that
    they were not intended to recharge conventional alkaline batteries.
    For example:
    <https://www.whateverworks.com/itemdy00.aspx?T1=K8558>
    Notice the reviews. Yes, you can trickle charge a new alkaline
    battery to about 30% SoC, maybe once. However, it takes forever to
    recharge and usually causes the cell to leak electrolyte. I don't
    think there was any "experimenter" in that era that didn't at least
    try to recharge alkaline cells in whatever charger they had available.
    When I tried it, the cells overheated, melted the plastic and made a
    big mess. Lesson learned.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From danny burstein@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Sun Jul 24 23:06:53 2022
    In <iegrdhd25h3l3e42kar2relej48esdelq4@4ax.com> Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes:

    [lots snipped]

    the early 1990's, Radio Shack actually sold an alkaline battery "recharger", or so they called
    it, for around $50.00 retail back then. They stated it will recharge alkaline batteries despite the

    "Did Radio Shack sell alkaline battery chargers?" ><https://www.google.com/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+%22alkaline%22+battery+chargers%3F&tbm=isch>
    <https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+alkaline+battery+chargers%3F&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle>
    Nothing found. If Google and Bing can't find it, it doesn't exist.

    Gotta disagree. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing alkaline
    chargers at Radio Shack 1990ish as we looked into them for
    use with our Motorola alpha numeric pagers.

    They sucked.

    Sidenote: we tried the Rayovac brand "Renewal" cells and
    designated chargers in 2,000 or so, and they were abysmal..

    I still avoid Rayovac big time.

    There was also a mass market alkaline charger hawked on TV
    called "Buddy" by one of the game show hosts. I'm picturing him in
    my mind but drawing a blank on his name.

    Ah, yes, it was Dick Clark.

    https://www.ebay.com/p/2254455804


    --
    _____________________________________________________
    Knowledge may be power, but communications is the key
    dannyb@panix.com
    [to foil spammers, my address has been double rot-13 encoded]

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Jeff Liebermann@21:1/5 to dannyb@panix.com on Sun Jul 24 22:07:20 2022
    On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 23:06:53 -0000 (UTC), danny burstein
    <dannyb@panix.com> wrote:

    In <iegrdhd25h3l3e42kar2relej48esdelq4@4ax.com> Jeff Liebermann <jeffl@cruzio.com> writes:

    [lots snipped]

    the early 1990's, Radio Shack actually sold an alkaline battery "recharger", or so they called
    it, for around $50.00 retail back then. They stated it will recharge alkaline batteries despite the

    "Did Radio Shack sell alkaline battery chargers?" >><https://www.google.com/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+%22alkaline%22+battery+chargers%3F&tbm=isch>
    <https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+alkaline+battery+chargers%3F&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle>
    Nothing found. If Google and Bing can't find it, it doesn't exist.

    Gotta disagree. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing alkaline
    chargers at Radio Shack 1990ish as we looked into them for
    use with our Motorola alpha numeric pagers.

    They sucked.

    There are various copies of Radio Shack catalogs online. <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com>

    1989: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1989_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 92. NiCd batteries and chargers start on Pg 141 and
    alkalines on Page 143. I didn't find anything that looked like an
    alkaline charger. Probably too early.

    1993: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1993_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 170. Battery chargers on Pg 88. There are some NiCd
    chargers, but no alkaline chargers.

    1996: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1996_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 218. Battery chargers on Pg 176, 212-213, 216. NiCd
    chargers, but no alkaline chargers.

    2000: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/2000_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 396. Chargers now have their own section under "Chargers"
    listed by type. Nothing that says "universal" or "alkaline".

    2004-2005: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/2004-05_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 210. Same as 2000 with NiMH added.

    Unless I missed something, there are no alkaline or universal chargers
    in the catalogs.

    There was also a mass market alkaline charger hawked on TV
    called "Buddy" by one of the game show hosts. I'm picturing him in
    my mind but drawing a blank on his name.

    Ah, yes, it was Dick Clark.

    https://www.ebay.com/p/2254455804

    Nice find. If the name includes amazing, super, magic, miracle,
    amazing, ultra, ultimate or other superlatives, it's usually junk.
    Such junk eventually fades away, only to be resurrected from the dead
    every few years. These days, I'm finding numerous scams on YouTube advertising. Here's one example from the 1950's that keeps
    re-appearing:
    "How to Convert an Electrical Outlet to an Antenna" <https://itstillworks.com/13582317/how-to-convert-an-electrical-outlet-to-an-antenna>
    More of the same: <https://www.google.com/search?q=turn+your+house+wiring+into+an+antenna>
    These days, it's not TV antennas and alkaline battery chargers. It's
    magic technologies to fast charge your phone, make your EV go farther,
    or revive your storage batteries from the dead. They're not really
    sold to consumers directly, but rather as an investment scam, creative financing, or early adopters discount pricing. I guess this is now
    called progress.


    --
    Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Allodoxaphobia@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Mon Jul 25 12:46:37 2022
    On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 22:07:20 -0700, Jeff Liebermann wrote:

    .......... If the name includes amazing, super, magic, miracle,
    amazing, ultra, ultimate or other superlatives, it's usually junk.
    Such junk eventually fades away, only to be resurrected from the dead
    every few years.

    When innocent folks pick them up at Goodwill, ARC, and Salvation Army second-hand stores. :-)

    Jonesy
    --
    Marvin L Jones | Marvin | W3DHJ.net | linux
    38.238N 104.547W | @ jonz.net | Jonesy | FreeBSD
    * Killfiling google & XXXXbanter.com: jonz.net/ng.htm

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Charles Lucas@21:1/5 to Jeff Liebermann on Mon Jul 25 19:16:59 2022
    On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 12:07:29 AM UTC-5, Jeff Liebermann wrote:
    On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 23:06:53 -0000 (UTC), danny burstein
    <dan...@panix.com> wrote:

    In <iegrdhd25h3l3e42k...@4ax.com> Jeff Liebermann <je...@cruzio.com> writes:

    [lots snipped]

    the early 1990's, Radio Shack actually sold an alkaline battery "recharger", or so they called
    it, for around $50.00 retail back then. They stated it will recharge alkaline batteries despite the

    "Did Radio Shack sell alkaline battery chargers?" >><https://www.google.com/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+%22alkaline%22+battery+chargers%3F&tbm=isch>
    <https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=Did+Radio+Shack+sell+alkaline+battery+chargers%3F&first=1&tsc=ImageHoverTitle>
    Nothing found. If Google and Bing can't find it, it doesn't exist.

    Gotta disagree. I'm pretty sure I remember seeing alkaline
    chargers at Radio Shack 1990ish as we looked into them for
    use with our Motorola alpha numeric pagers.

    I found this link that prominently says "alkaline" and the charger was made by Buddy-L. I nicknamed them "battery buddy" 30 + years ago (about 1990). Click on this link and you will see. Thanks for everything. After the conversation and
    my faulty memory, I thought I would do some digging. So, the link is right here.
    Click below.

    https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m75188640508/?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=16711599291&utm_content=t0&adgroup=130207367930&network=g&device=c&merchant_id=126358573&product_id=m75188640508&product_id=1645796691995&gclid=
    Cj0KCQjw_viWBhD8ARIsAH1mCd7avDuQlJDgVRLgiu3Xv3qdGA6kPwLn7ntr7T0bB7fFuW7glChXbpMaAuuJEALw_wcB


    They sucked.
    There are various copies of Radio Shack catalogs online. <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com>

    1989: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1989_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 92. NiCd batteries and chargers start on Pg 141 and
    alkalines on Page 143. I didn't find anything that looked like an
    alkaline charger. Probably too early.

    1993: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1993_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 170. Battery chargers on Pg 88. There are some NiCd
    chargers, but no alkaline chargers.

    1996: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/1996_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 218. Battery chargers on Pg 176, 212-213, 216. NiCd
    chargers, but no alkaline chargers.

    2000: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/2000_radioshack_catalog.html> Index on Pg 396. Chargers now have their own section under "Chargers"
    listed by type. Nothing that says "universal" or "alkaline".

    2004-2005: <https://www.radioshackcatalogs.com/flipbook/2004-05_radioshack_catalog.html>
    Index on Pg 210. Same as 2000 with NiMH added.

    Unless I missed something, there are no alkaline or universal chargers
    in the catalogs.
    There was also a mass market alkaline charger hawked on TV
    called "Buddy" by one of the game show hosts. I'm picturing him in
    my mind but drawing a blank on his name.

    Ah, yes, it was Dick Clark.

    https://www.ebay.com/p/2254455804
    Nice find. If the name includes amazing, super, magic, miracle,
    amazing, ultra, ultimate or other superlatives, it's usually junk.
    Such junk eventually fades away, only to be resurrected from the dead
    every few years. These days, I'm finding numerous scams on YouTube advertising. Here's one example from the 1950's that keeps
    re-appearing:
    "How to Convert an Electrical Outlet to an Antenna" <https://itstillworks.com/13582317/how-to-convert-an-electrical-outlet-to-an-antenna>
    More of the same: <https://www.google.com/search?q=turn+your+house+wiring+into+an+antenna> These days, it's not TV antennas and alkaline battery chargers. It's
    magic technologies to fast charge your phone, make your EV go farther,
    or revive your storage batteries from the dead. They're not really
    sold to consumers directly, but rather as an investment scam, creative financing, or early adopters discount pricing. I guess this is now
    called progress.
    --
    Jeff Liebermann je...@cruzio.com
    PO Box 272 http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
    Ben Lomond CA 95005-0272
    Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558

    I really appreciate the great conversation. This is so useful, I am archiving it for my
    records as I have truly learned an immense amount here. Thank you so much! I love your sense of humor too. Really great!

    Have a wonderful day!

    Sincerely,

    Charles Lucas

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  • From ohger1s@gmail.com@21:1/5 to ehsjr on Tue Jul 26 13:56:21 2022
    On Tuesday, July 26, 2022 at 4:48:49 PM UTC-4, ehsjr wrote:
    On 7/25/2022 10:16 PM, Charles Lucas wrote:
    <snip>

    I found this link that prominently says "alkaline" and the charger was made by
    Buddy-L. I nicknamed them "battery buddy" 30 + years ago (about 1990). Click
    on this link and you will see. Thanks for everything. After the conversation and
    my faulty memory, I thought I would do some digging. So, the link is right here.
    Click below.

    https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m75188640508/?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=16711599291&utm_content=t0&adgroup=130207367930&network=g&device=c&merchant_id=126358573&product_id=m75188640508&product_id=1645796691995&gclid=
    Cj0KCQjw_viWBhD8ARIsAH1mCd7avDuQlJDgVRLgiu3Xv3qdGA6kPwLn7ntr7T0bB7fFuW7glChXbpMaAuuJEALw_wcB

    That link is to sell an old Buddy-L . The link does NOT
    support the idea that alkaline batteries are a good candidate
    for recharging. They are NOT. Under some limited conditions
    you can get a few recharges with them, as Jeff already told you.
    Examples of good rechargeable chemistries include NiMh, NiCd,
    PBS04 and various Lithiums. These can be recharged hundreds
    of times.

    Here's a link that you might wish to read: https://michaelbluejay.com/batteries/charging-alkalines.html

    You might consider experimenting with alkaline batteries on
    your own, so that you can know from your own experience how
    they work as rechargeables.

    Thanks,
    Ed

    <snipped remainder>

    I remember when that charger was introduced, Popular Science (or Mechanics, can't recall) did a review on it and they generally liked it, but when reading the copy, it seemed like a waste of time based on their collected data. The best results were
    achieved when the cells were "recharged" when they were still usable. Fine, but most of us need to recharge when we notice our battery powered devices failing. At most, they might have doubled the total run time of the alkaline by recharging several
    times as long as the cell wasn't mostly spent before the first recharge.

    Everyone at some point has put a small charge across an alkaline cell and bought a bit more time until new cells could be acquired. I've put 9V batteries on my power supply during lunch time and gotten almost a month more use in a low drain application
    like a Fluke DMM. I don't see the Buddy L charger as doing any more than what I as doing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From ehsjr@21:1/5 to Charles Lucas on Tue Jul 26 16:48:38 2022
    On 7/25/2022 10:16 PM, Charles Lucas wrote:
    <snip>


    I found this link that prominently says "alkaline" and the charger was made by
    Buddy-L. I nicknamed them "battery buddy" 30 + years ago (about 1990). Click on this link and you will see. Thanks for everything. After the conversation and
    my faulty memory, I thought I would do some digging. So, the link is right here.
    Click below.

    https://www.mercari.com/us/item/m75188640508/?gclsrc=aw.ds&&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=16711599291&utm_content=t0&adgroup=130207367930&network=g&device=c&merchant_id=126358573&product_id=m75188640508&product_id=1645796691995&gclid=
    Cj0KCQjw_viWBhD8ARIsAH1mCd7avDuQlJDgVRLgiu3Xv3qdGA6kPwLn7ntr7T0bB7fFuW7glChXbpMaAuuJEALw_wcB


    That link is to sell an old Buddy-L . The link does NOT
    support the idea that alkaline batteries are a good candidate
    for recharging. They are NOT. Under some limited conditions
    you can get a few recharges with them, as Jeff already told you.
    Examples of good rechargeable chemistries include NiMh, NiCd,
    PBS04 and various Lithiums. These can be recharged hundreds
    of times.

    Here's a link that you might wish to read: https://michaelbluejay.com/batteries/charging-alkalines.html

    You might consider experimenting with alkaline batteries on
    your own, so that you can know from your own experience how
    they work as rechargeables.

    Thanks,
    Ed

    <snipped remainder>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)