What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?
I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working.
It's gray with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.
I replaced the two CR2025 batteries but it doesn't open the door.
The single red LED flashes once with the left button held down, stays red with the middle button held down, and flashes once with the right button.
The middle button was the one that I was using on the hand-held clicker.
The garage door opener has a sticker on the outside saying Stanley Deluxe
1/2 HP, model 3205, 120V, 60Hz, single phase, 7.0 Amp, 1/2 HP motor, add
load 202VA, operating rate 25 ft lb/sec.
There are three things sticking out the bottom, one of which is a short six inches or so antenna, and another is a one-inch diameter black adjustment knob of some sort, and then two 3/8ths inch additional adjustment knobs, one black and the other white (I've never touched them).
Climbing on a ladder & removing that yellow cover reveals a red 10-pin
static dip switch whose circuit board has a sticker that says Stanley FCC ID A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845.
The garage door opener works fine from the wall switch.
I was given this garage door opener clicker when I bought the house years
ago so it wasn't me who set it up in the first place.
Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be?
I just want the clicker to work again.
What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?
I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working. It's gray
with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.
Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be?
I just want the clicker to work again.
What is the process of getting a garage door opener clicker to work again?
I had been using the "Clicker" brand hand held three button garage door >opener clicker for years when it recently stopped working.
It's gray with 3 blue buttons, FCC ID MJN321, frequency 300, 310 & 390 MHz.
I replaced the two CR2025 batteries but it doesn't open the door.
The single red LED flashes once with the left button held down, stays red >with the middle button held down, and flashes once with the right button.
The middle button was the one that I was using on the hand-held clicker.
The garage door opener has a sticker on the outside saying Stanley Deluxe
1/2 HP, model 3205, 120V, 60Hz, single phase, 7.0 Amp, 1/2 HP motor, add
load 202VA, operating rate 25 ft lb/sec.
There are three things sticking out the bottom, one of which is a short six >inches or so antenna, and another is a one-inch diameter black adjustment >knob of some sort, and then two 3/8ths inch additional adjustment knobs, one >black and the other white (I've never touched them).
Climbing on a ladder & removing that yellow cover reveals a red 10-pin
static dip switch whose circuit board has a sticker that says Stanley FCC ID >A9K9KG RCOMBO model 3045-01, frequency 310 8845.
The garage door opener works fine from the wall switch.
I was given this garage door opener clicker when I bought the house years
ago so it wasn't me who set it up in the first place.
Does it normally need to be retrained when the batteries are replaced?
Do you have advice as to what the typical retraining procedure might be?
I just want the clicker to work again.
google the words "MJN321 manual"
I just want the clicker to work again.
What, if anything, have you Googled?
If you've changed the lighting source near or on the door
opener, this can prevent operation. Older mechanisms
may not function if fluorescent lamps are substituted
for previous incandescent. LED subs are probably OK.
How does a ballast buzz?
Loose laminations
How does a ballast buzz?
Does it have moving parts?
Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?
On Tue, 26 Apr 2022 at 17:48:25, Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> wrote: (my responses usually follow points raised):
How does a ballast buzz?
Loose laminations
Must be that then.
Maybe my ears are better than I thought.
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
How does a ballast buzz?
Loose laminations
Does it have moving parts?
only on a small scale (see above)
Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?
Hopefully 50Hz unless you've moved ...
In <jcqm2rFqvvvU1@mid.individual.net> Andy Burns <usenet@andyburns.uk> writes:
J. P. Gilliver (John) wrote:
How does a ballast buzz?
Loose laminations
Does it have moving parts?
only on a small scale (see above)
Or does the buzzing just mean it's loose and it's vibrating at 60Hz?
Hopefully 50Hz unless you've moved ...
Actually, for reasons I'm not quite understanding,
that "60Hz" (or 50..) "hum" is usually, actually,
buzzing at _120_Hz (or 100).
Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling
effect.
On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gravity@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:
Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or
repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling
effect.
Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?
On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gra...@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:
Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both halfGiven the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?
cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling effect.
On Wednesday, April 27, 2022 at 2:25:42 AM UTC-7, mike wrote:
On 27-04-2022 09:54 Mike Coon <gra...@mjcoon.plus.com> wrote:
Because the movement is due to magnetised laminations attracting (or repelling, perhaps) each other. They do the same thing on both half cycles because they all switch polarity together, hence the doubling effect.Given the inevitable loss of energy, perhaps only slight, and the potential for failure, is the vibration detrimental to the operation of the equipment?
Yeah, very slowly; strain in the metal parts can accumulate and change the magnetic properties of the laminations. By 2322, you'll notice that difference...
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