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flat area because of wind currents, dispersion of scent, and
visibility. Never place traps uphill or downhill from the coyote's
expected path of approach.
* Look for open places where coyote tracks indicate that the animal
milled around or stopped. Place the set upwind from the path (or
site of coyote activity) so the prevailing wind will carry the
scent across the area of expected coyote activity.
* Choose a level spot as close as possible to, but not directly on,
the coyote's path. The coyote's approach should never be over dry
leaves, tall grass, stones, sticks, weeds, or rough ground. Make
each set where the coyote has clear visibility as it approaches.
* Place the set using two No. 3 traps with a cold-shut chain repair
link affixed to the top of a steel stake. The link should swivel
around the stake top. The stake should be at least 18 inches (46
cm) long, or longer if the soil is loose. Use two stakes set at an
angle to each other if the soil will not hold with a single stake.

Figures 9 through 29 illustrate the procedures for making a set.
canvas placement for coyote trapping

Fig. 9. A piece of canvas, about 3 feet x 6 feet, used as a kneeling
cloth, makes preparing the trap site much easier.
compress the spring of the coyote trap prepare trap bed for coyote trap
set coyote trap photos step by step


place coyote trap in bed stake down coyote trap cover the trap pan bed
the coyote trap pan

Fig 20. Take out or add soil until the trap pan and jaws are about 1/2
inch below the level of the surrounding ground. Build a ridge for the
jaw opposite the trigger to sit on. On the side of the trap that has
the trigger, place soil under the trap pan cover on either side of the
trigger to hold the pan cover up tight against the bottom of the jaws.
take care not to get dirt under the trap pan

Fig 21. Stretch the pan cover tightly across the pan and under the
jaws. Pan and jaws should be level and flat. In cold weather, plastic
can be placed under the trap. Place plastic baggies on each spring and
mix table salt with dry soil or peat moss to cover the trap. Set the
other trap as shown above. Place the pan cover so that the dog or
trigger can move upward without binding it in. Anything that slows the
action of the trap can cause a miss or a toe hold.
sift dirt over coyote trap make coyote trap set look natural

Fig. 23. The trap should be set about 1/4 inch below the level of the
surrounding ground. The set must look natural. The soil around the trap
and over the springs, chains, and stake should be packed to the same
firmness as the ground the coyote walks on in its approach to the set.
Only soft soil should be directly over the trap pan within the set jaw
area. Use a curved stick, brush, or rib bone to level soil over the
trap.
place object near trap that can be easily seen bait trap remove signs
of human presence gather left over dirt dispose of left over dirt how
to leave the trap set area

Always bury the traps and stake in the ground using dry, finely sifted
soil. One of the most difficult aspects of using traps is trapping when
the ground is frozen, muddy, wet, or damp. If the weather is expected
to turn cold and/or wet, you should use one or a combination of the
following materials in which to set and cover the traps: Canadian
sphagnum peat moss, very dry soil, dry manure, buckwheat hulls, or
finely chopped hay. A mixture of one part table salt or calcium
chloride with three parts dry soil will prevent the soil from freezing
over the trap. When using peat moss or other dry, fluffy material,
cover the material with a thin layer of dry soil mixed with 1/4
teaspoon of table salt. This will blend the set with the surrounding
soil and prevent the wind from blowing peat moss away from the trap. As
an alternative, traps could be set in a bed of dry soil placed over the
snow or frozen ground.

Guiding Coyote Footsteps. Use a few strategically placed dirt clods,
sticks, small rocks, or stickers around the set to guide the coyote's
foot to the traps. Coyotes will tend to avoid the obstacles and place
their feet in bare areas. Do not use this method to the extent that the
set looks unnatural.

Care of Coyote Traps. New traps can be used to trap coyotes, but better
results may be obtained by using traps that have been dyed. Dyeing
traps helps prevent rust and removes odors. Wood chips or crystals for
dyeing traps are available from trapping supply outlets. Some trappers
also wax their traps to prevent them from rusting and to extend the
life of the traps.

Inevitably, rusting will occur when traps are in use. It does not harm
the traps, but after their continued use the rust often will slow the
action of the trap and cause it to miss a coyote. Traps also become
contaminated with skunk musk, gasoline, oil, blood, or other odors. It
is important that traps be clean and in good working condition. Rusted
traps should be cleaned with a wire brush to ensure that the trigger
and pan work freely. Check the chain links for open links. File the
triggers and receivers to eliminate all rounded edges. Make any
adjustments necessary so that the pan will sit level and the trap
perform smoothly.

Size of Traps for Coyotes. There are many suitable traps for catching
coyotes. Both the No. 3 and No. 4 are good choices. Many trappers
prefer a No. 3 coilspring round-jawed off-set trap. It is a good idea
to use superweld kinkless chain. The length of chain varies depending
on whether the trap is staked or a drag is used. A longer chain should
be used with a drag. The off-set jaws are designed to reduce broken
foot bones, which can allow the coyote to escape by wriggling out of
the trap. Traps with coil springs are good coyote traps, but they
require more upkeep than a double long-spring trap. The type and size
of trap may be regulated in each state. Body gripping traps are
dangerous and illegal in some states for catching coyotes. When pet
dogs might be present, use a padded-jaw No. 3 double coilspring trap.

While additional testing needs to be conducted, results of research to
reduce injury using padded-jaw traps have been encouraging. In tests
with No. 3 Soft-Catch(R) coilsprings, No. 3 NM longsprings, and No. 4
Newhouse longsprings, capture rates for coyotes were 95%, 100%, and
100%, respectively. Soft-Catch traps caused the least visible injury to
captured coyotes.

Anchoring Traps. Chain swivels are necessary for trapping coyotes. One
swivel at the stake, one in the middle of the chain, and one at the
trap are recommended. Drags (Fig. 30) instead of stakes can be used
where there is an abundance of brush or trees or where the ground is
too rocky to use a stake. Use a long chain (5 feet [1.5 m] or more) on
a drag.

Lures and Scents. Coyotes are interested in and may be attracted to
odors in their environment. Commercially available lures and scents or
natural odors such as fresh coyote, dog, or cat droppings or urine may
produce good results. Coyote urine works the best.

Problems in Trapping Coyotes. A great deal of experience is required to
effectively trap coyotes. Trapping by experienced or untrained people
may serve to educate coyotes, making them very difficult to catch, even
by experienced trappers. Coyotes, however, exhibit individualized
patterns of behavior. Many, but not all, coyotes become trap-shy after
being caught and then escaping from a trap. There is a record of one
coyote having been caught eight times in the same set. Some coyotes
require considerably more time and thought to trap than others. With
unlimited time, a person could trap almost any coyote.

If a coyote digs up or springs a trap without getting caught, reset the
trap in the same place. Then carefully set one or two traps near the
first set. Use gloves and be careful to hide the traps. Changing scents
or using various tricks, such as a lone feather as a visual attraction
near a set, or a ticking clock in a dirt hole set as an audible
attraction, may help in trying to catch wary coyotes.

Resetting Traps and Checking Trap Sets. Once a coyote is caught at a
set, reset the trap in the same place. The odor and disturbance at the
set where a coyote has been caught will often attract other coyotes.
Sometimes other coyotes will approach but not enter the circle where
the coyote was caught. If signs indicate that this has happened, move
the trap set outside of the circle. Leave all sets out for at least 2
weeks before moving the traps to a new location. Check the traps once
every 24 hours, preferably in the morning around 9 or 10 o'clock.
Reapply the scent every 4 days, using 8 to 10 drops of coyote urine.

Human Scent and Coyote Trapping. Minimize human scent around trap sets
as much as possible.

Fig. 30. Trapping drag

Coyote trap drags

If traps are being set in warm months, make sure the trapper has
recently bathed, has clean clothes, and is not sweating. Leave no
unnecessary foreign odors, such as cigarette butts or gum wrappers,
near the set. Wear clean gloves and rubber footwear while setting
traps. A landowner may have an advantage over a stranger who comes to
set traps since the coyotes are acquainted with the landowner's scent
and expect him/her to be there. Coyotes have been known to leave an
area after encountering an unfamiliar human scent.

Because of human scent, coyotes are more difficult to catch with traps
in wet or humid weather. Wear gloves, wax traps, and take other
precautionary measures in areas where humans are not commonly present,
where wet weather conditions are common, and where coyotes have been
trapped for several years and have learned to avoid traps.

Killing a Trapped Coyote. A coyote will make its most desperate attempt
to get out of the trap as a person approaches. As soon as you get
within a few feet (m) of the coyote, check to see that the trap has a
firm hold on the coyote's foot. If so, shoot the coyote in the head,
with a .22 caliber weapon. It is often a good idea to reset the trap in
the same place. The blood from the coyote will not necessarily harm the
set as long as it is not on the trap or on the soil over the reset
traps. Reset the trap regardless of the species of animal captured,
skunks included.

Draw Stations. Draw stations are natural areas or places set up
intentionally to draw coyotes to a particular location. For example,
the straw and cleanings from a chicken house can be placed in an area
where coyote tracks are found. Traps can then be set around the edges
of the straw. Areas around carcasses or parts of animals, such as a
cow's head, are good places to set traps. Wire the carcass to a stake
driven into the ground and out of sight. Once coyotes start feeding,
set traps 30 to 60 feet (9 to 18 m) upwind from the carcasses or draw
station. Never set traps very close to carcasses because nontarget
animals such as vultures, eagles, hawks, skunks, and opossums will be
caught. If sheep graze in an area where traps are set, cover the traps
with a disc blade or brush during the day and uncover them at night
when the sheep are penned.

Opposition to Traps. Opposition to foothold traps is based primarily on
two objections: (1) a lack of selectivity for the animal which the trap
is set for and (2) foot injury sustained by the captured animal. Trap
pan tension devices such as sticks, forked twigs, springs, and sponges
placed under the trap pan have been used for many years to reduce
captures of nontarget species. Many coyote traps have an adjustable pan
tension screw. One study evaluated two pan tension devices. Preliminary
results indicated that the use of either device could exclude nearly
90% of the gray foxes, swift foxes, striped skunks, opossums, and
jackrabbits that stepped on traps, as compared with 24% on average for
unequipped traps. A variety of other species were excluded at even
higher rates. Some coyotes were also excluded, but because more traps
remained functional, the net result appeared to be an increase in
coyote trapping efficiency. Advances in trap design, including off-set
jaws and padded-jaw traps, have increased the humaneness of foothold
traps. Traps should be checked once or twice each day to minimize the
length of time that an animal must remain in a trap.
coyote snare components Fig. 33. Setting the snare

proper staking and setting of coyote snare

Fig. 34. Fastening the snare to the stake

Snares Snaring is the technique of setting a steel-cable loop in an
animal's path to capture it by the neck, body, or leg. Snares usually
consist of a 2.5- to 10foot (0.75- to 3.0-m) long piece of galvanized
aircraft cable containing a slide lock that forms a loop in the cable
(Fig. 31). On short snares, a swivel to prevent twisting and breaking
the cable is attached to the end of the cable opposite the loop. On
longer snares, swivels can be located near the middle of the cable and
at one end.

Snares offer several advantages over steel foothold traps. They are
lightweight, compact, simple in function, affected little by weather,
easy to set, low in cost, and offer a high degree of human safety. In a
south Texas study, snares were 10 times more selective over steel
foothold traps for target species of coyotes and bobcats. Snares,
however, can be a greater hazard than traps to livestock. Recent
research has produced deer stops and break-away or relaxing locks that
have significantly improved snare specificity.

Preparation of Snares.New commercial snares and extension cables can be
cleaned by boiling each dozen snares in a pan or bucket of water with 4
tablespoons (16 gm) of baking soda for one hour. The snares will turn a
dull gray after being removed from this bath and hung up to dry
outdoors. Darken snares by boiling them in brown logwood crystals and
dye. After boiling, snares should be kept clean of foreign odors. Wear
clean gloves when handling and setting snares.

How to Set Snares. Snares designed to capture predators by the neck or
leg are set directly in the animal's path of movement and are held in
place using various techniques. One support that works particularly
well can be constructed from a 36-inch (0.9-m) piece of 12-gauge
galvanized or 9-gauge soft wire. Form a V bend in the support wire,
about 4 inches (10 cm) from the end, and drive the wire into the ground
with a notched rod (Fig. 32) to prevent the support from moving in the
wind. Wrap the snare around the support about three times and hold it
in place with a U bend formed in the upper end of the snare support.
Bend the snare cable upward slightly, just inside the lock, to ensure
that the snare loop is not closed by the wind (Fig. 33).

Snares should be attached to a solid object so that captured animals
cannot escape (Fig. 34). A steel 1/2-inch (1.3- cm) diameter rebar, 24
to 30 inches (61 to 72 cm) long (depending on soil hardness), makes a
good anchor for coyotes and smaller predators. Attach snares to the
rebar with a strong swivel to prevent tangling and breaking. A lead
cable that is at least as strong as the snare cable can be used to
attach short snares to the rebar stake. Avoid using 9-gauge (0.38-cm)
wire or several strands of 14-gauge (0.21-cm) wire to anchor snares to
a rebar stake because they may bend back and forth, crystallize, and
break. When used for coyotes, snares also can be secured to a dead tree
limb that is at least 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter and 6 feet (2 m)
long.
snare set on woven wire

Snares set in holes under woven-wire fences can be held in place about
1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from the fence with the snare support
system (Fig. 35). The snare should be set far enough away from the
fence to prevent the lock from catching on the bottom wire of the
fence. The bottom of the loop should be about 2 inches (5 cm) above the
bottom of the hole. The snares can be anchored to the heavy-gauge wire
on the bottom of the fence. Two strands of baling wire or S hooks can
be used to fasten the snare to the bottom wire.

If there is a chance of accidentally catching a pet dog, a leg snare
set is recommended (Fig. 36). Set a small loop about 5 inches (13 cm)
or less to one side of the opening, and set the bottom of the loop on
the ground. When a coyote goes under a fence, it places both front feet
firmly on the ground, and sticks its head just under the bottom wire.
Once its head is past the bottom wire, the coyote begins to raise its
head. The idea is to set the leg snare so that one front foot will pass
through the snare.

Snares are usually set in the form of a round or oval loop. In a trail
set (Fig. 37), a round loop that is 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter can
form an oval loop that is about 14 inches (36 cm) high and 10 inches
(25 cm) wide. Use a 5/64- or 3/32-inch (0.2- or 0.24-cm) diameter
galvanized aircraft cable for snaring coyotes. Varying round loop
diameters and heights above ground is recommended when snaring coyotes
(Table 1). The loop size in a hole in a fence should vary depending
upon the size of the hole.


image of snare set to catch the leg of a coyote

CAPTION: Table 1 Specific loop dimensions for snaring coyotes

Height of
Round loop Loop above
Type of Set diameter Ground
Inches Centimeters Inches Centimeters
Trail 9-12 (23-30) 10-12 (25-30)
Under
Fence 7-10 (18-25) 2 (5)



Where to Set Snares. Animals usually follow the easiest route through
heavy cover. These routes, which generally consist of trails, are
excellent locations to snare predators. Snares are effective along
trails leading to draw stations. Some effective locations for snaring
coyotes include: (1) along trails in thickets or heavy vegetation
leading to a carcass, (2) on trails under fences, (3) on livestock
trails in vacant pastures, (4) in the bottoms of ravines, and 5) on
narrow paths inside weeds or brush. Trails can be created by driving on
weeds or stubble with a pickup, by walking in snow, or by mowing a
trail through weeds or grass with a weed eater.

Regulations for Snaring. Snares are not legal in all states. Where
snares are legal, most states have regulations which require that
snares be visually inspected every 24 hours. Snares should be checked
early in the morning to increase the probability of releasing nontarget
animals unharmed.

Methods to Avoid Capturing Nontarget Animals. Sites where snares are
set should be carefully selected to avoid capturing nontarget animals.
Avoid setting snares: (1) in pastures with livestock, (2) within 25
yards (23 m) of animal carcasses (to prevent capturing birds of prey
and other scavengers), (3) within major deer, elk, or antelope
wintering areas (these big game animals are much less susceptible to
foothold traps), (4) on any trails being used by livestock, deer, elk,
and other nontarget animals (attract predators away from these trails
with specific baits and lures), (5) under fences where livestock,
antelope, deer, or nontarget dogs are using the "crawl space," and (6)
where people can readily view captured animals.

Coyote trail snare Fig. 37. Trail snare set

Use a short snare cable to reduce injuries where accidentally captured
dogs might jump over a fence or a tree branch. Also avoid using
entangling devices (attachments that increase the chance of killing the
snared animal) where dogs might be captured. Use the lightest snare
lock (breakaway lock) possible to capture the desired animal. If
livestock, deer, elk, or antelope are captured by a leg, they can
usually break a light lock but may be held by heavy locks. Record the
location and number of snares on a map so they can be found, and remove
all snares when damage stops or when they cannot be checked frequently.

Shooting

Shooting coyotes is legal in many situations, and it often ranks high
among the choices for removing a predator. Safety, however, is a
critical factor that in some circumstances may preclude the use of
firearms (for example, local laws may prohibit shooting, or neighbors
may be too close).

For shooting coyotes, a medium-powered bolt-action rifle fitted with a
scope is recommended. The .223 Remington, .22-250, .220 Swift, or the
.243 Winchester are all capable of killing a coyote up to a distance of
250 yards (225 m). Since coyotes are able to detect human scent, the
shooter should take a stand downwind from where the coyote will likely
approach. An elevated location where the lighting works to the
shooter's advantage is a good choice. If predators are killing sheep in
the daytime, construct a comfortable blind at a vantage point in the
pasture where the killing has occurred. Whenever possible, rest the
rifle on a solid support while aiming. A homemade shooting stick will
improve accuracy over shooting freehand.

A shotgun, preferably a 12-gauge semi-automatic, can be used for
shooting at short range (less than 50 yards [45 m]). Often it is
advisable to have both a 12-gauge shotgun and a scoped rifle available.
Copper-coated (BB) lead shot, No. 4 buckshot (lead), and in newer
shotguns, the larger-sized steel shot works well for killing coyotes.

Shooting From Ground Vehicles. Shooting from vehicles (snowmobiles,
motorcycles, and pickups) in open, flat prairie country can be
effective and provide immediate results. Under most circumstances,
however, this method is not practical as it requires keen driving
skills, is dangerous, and is illegal in most states.

Calling and Shooting Coyotes. Coyotes may respond to predator calls.
Calling, like other methods of predation control, should be used
sparingly and only when needed. Coyotes can be called at any time of
the day although the first couple of hours after dawn and the last few
hours before darkness are usually best. Call in areas where there are
signs of coyotes, such as tracks or droppings.

In some situations, coyotes can be located by listening to their
howling at sundown and sunrise. Some hunters use sirens to elicit howls
from coyotes. Often a voice imitation of a coyote howl works as well.
Coyotes often come to a howl without howling back, so the prudent
hunter is always ready to shoot.

Hunting at Night. Not many people have witnessed predators killing
livestock because it usually occurs at night, away from human activity.
As stated previously, calling and shooting predators at night is
illegal in many states. Where legal, however, hunting at night with the
use of artificial lights may be effective. Red or blue light tends to
spook predators less readily than white light does. Calling without the
use of artificial lights is effective only with snow cover and the
light of a full moon.

Aerial Hunting. The use of aircraft for shooting coyotes is strictly
regulated by the provisions of the Airborne Hunting Act and is allowed
only under special permit in states where legal. Aerial hunting is
selective and allows taking only the target species. Although it is
costly, it may be one of the most cost-effective methods of reducing
predator damage when all factors are considered. It is often the best
method where conditions are right for removing depredating animals that
have successfully evaded traditional ground control methods such as
trapping.

Fixed-wing aerial hunting is limited primarily to open areas with
little vegetative cover. The greater maneuverability of helicopters
makes them more useful for hunting in areas of brush, scattered timber,
and rugged terrain.

Although aerial hunting can be conducted over bare ground, it is most
effective where there is deep snow cover. Animals are more visible
against a background of snow and are much less mobile in their attempts
to avoid the aircraft. Under optimal conditions of clear, sunny skies
and fresh snow cover, much of the hunting can be accomplished by
searching for and following fresh coyote tracks. Aerial hunting success
can be increased when conducted with the assistance of a ground crew.
Before the plane arrives, a ground crew can locate coyotes in the
hunting area by eliciting howls with a siren, a mouth-blown howler
call, or a voice howl. Two-way radio communication allows the ground
crew to direct the aircraft toward the sound of the coyotes, thus
reducing hunting time.

Aerial hunting is not recommended for, nor undertaken by, most
livestock producers because of the special skills required of both
pilot and gunner and the danger inherent with the low-level flight.
Although weather, terrain, and state laws limit the application of this
method, it can often provide a prompt resolution to depredation
problems.

Denning

Predation can frequently be resolved by locating coyote dens and
removing the pups and/or the adults responsible for depredations.
Denning may also be warranted as a preventive control strategy if
coyote predation has historically and consistently occurred in a
particular area during the lambing season.

Breeding pairs of coyotes are extremely territorial. They vigorously
defend their territories against other canine intruders. Coyotes often
den year after year in the same general location. If a particular
denning pair of coyotes has a history of existing with and not preying
on livestock, it may be to the producer's advantage to leave them
alone. Their removal will open up a territory that may become occupied
with coyotes that are more likely to prey on livestock.

Although tracking a coyote from a livestock kill back to its den
requires skill and persistence, it is probably the most foolproof
method to locate the den of the offending animals. If tracking is not
feasible because of poor tracking conditions or lack of the required
skills, there are alternatives that may be used.

Coyotes will usually howl in response to a howl from another coyote
near their den. One or both adult coyotes will often be near the den
between 7:30 to 9:00 a.m. A response can be elicited by voice howling,
blowing a coyote howler call, or broadcasting recorded calls from a
tape player. It is usually best to wait 30 minutes to 1 hour between
howls because the same coyotes may not respond again within that
period.

Once the approximate location of a den is determined, careful planning
is required to ensure the best chance of immediately removing the adult
coyotes. The hunter should approach the den unseen and downwind to
within calling distance, armed with a high powered rifle and/or
repeating shotgun loaded with heavy shot. A call that imitates the
whines or yelps of a coyote pup can be very effective under these
circumstances, especially when used in conjunction with a dog to act as
a decoy. A small-to medium-sized dog moving in the vicinity of the den
gives the coyotes something to focus on and reduces the likelihood that
the hunter will be detected. The sounds of a pup in distress along with
the sight of a dog so near the den will cause most coyotes to display
highly aggressive behavior, frequently chasing the dog back to within
close proximity of the hunter.

After the adults are removed, the pups can be killed by fumigating the
den with a gas cartridge registered for this purpose, or the pups can
be dug out by hand. If attempts to shoot one or both adults are
unsuccessful, the chances of trapping or snaring them are improved if
the pups are left alive and confined in the den. This can be
accomplished by driving stakes 2 inches (5 cm) apart down through the
den entrance. Carefully place blind sets in the den trails or at the
den mound. Capture will often result when the adults return to
investigate the area. If the adults are not captured within a
reasonable period of time, the pups should be destroyed. Removal of the
pups is often effective in stopping predation even if the adult coyotes
are not removed.

An airplane can be used very effectively to locate coyote dens when
depredations occur in spring or early summer in open prairies or
sagebrush terrain. Early morning hours provide the best light
conditions for locating adult animals near the den site or as they
return from hunting. The low angle light reflects on the coyote and
provides good contrast with the surrounding vegetation and soil. Actual
den sign, however, shows up better during the middle of the day with
light coming from directly overhead. Dens are most easily located after
the pups have begun venturing outside. The pups soon trample down the
vegetation around the den, making the site more visible from the air.
If aerial shooting is legal, it is often possible to remove the adults
and pups in one operation. In open terrain, landings can often be made
within walking distance of the den.

Although denning requires special skills, training, and often
considerable time, the advantages can be significant. A cost-benefit
analysis conducted during one study determined that the cost to remove
a den of depredating coyotes could be recovered if only 3.6 lambs were
saved. In the same study, the average number of lambs killed by each
depredating pair of coyotes was 4.9 per week. While these findings
indicate that denning could be cost effective after only a few days,
the benefits actually continue in most instances for the duration of
the season. Denning can be very selective for the offending animals and
can resolve some depredation problems at relatively low cost.

Hunting with Dogs. Several breeds are generally known as trailing
hounds, including Walkers, Julys, redbones, blueticks, black and tans,
Plott hounds, and English fox hounds. Trail hounds follow the scent
left by a predator and run it to tree or bay it on the ground. Coyotes
are seldom caught and killed by trail hounds. In most instances, trail
hounds are used in combination with sight hounds. The trail hounds run
coyotes into the open, and then sight hounds are released to capture
the fleeing coyote. More commonly, coyotes are shot as they run from
the pack of hounds. Sight hounds, generally greyhounds or Russian wolf
hounds, are used in open prairie country to run coyotes down and kill
them.

Economics of Damage and Control

Sheep numbers in the United States have declined about 80% from 1942 to
1976 (Gee et al. 1977). Former sheep producers reported that the
principal reasons for leaving the sheep industry included high
predation losses, low lamb and wool prices, a shortage of good hired
labor, and the producer's age.

The US Fish and Wildlife Service (1978) estimated the economic impact
of coyote predation on producers with predator problems, on producers
without predator problems, and on consumers during 1977. They used an

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flat area because of wind currents, dispersion of scent, and
visibility. Never place traps uphill or downhill from the coyote's
expected path of approach.
* Look for open places where coyote tracks indicate that the animal
milled around or stopped. Place the set upwind from the path (or
site of coyote activity) so the prevailing wind will carry the
scent across the area of expected coyote activity.
* Choose a level spot as close as possible to, but not directly on,
the coyote's path. The coyote's approach should never be over dry
leaves, tall grass, stones, sticks, weeds, or rough ground. Make
each set where the coyote has clear visibility as it approaches.
* Place the set using two No. 3 traps with a cold-shut chain repair
link affixed to the top of a steel stake. The link should swivel
around the stake top. The stake should be at least 18 inches (46
cm) long, or longer if the soil is loose. Use two stakes set at an
angle to each other if the soil will not hold with a single stake.

Figures 9 through 29 illustrate the procedures for making a set.
canvas placement for coyote trapping

Fig. 9. A piece of canvas, about 3 feet x 6 feet, used as a kneeling
cloth, makes preparing the trap site much easier.
compress the spring of the coyote trap prepare trap bed for coyote trap
set coyote trap photos step by step


place coyote trap in bed stake down coyote trap cover the trap pan bed
the coyote trap pan

Fig 20. Take out or add soil until the trap pan and jaws are about 1/2
inch below the level of the surrounding ground. Build a ridge for the
jaw opposite the trigger to sit on. On the side of the trap that has
the trigger, place soil under the trap pan cover on either side of the
trigger to hold the pan cover up tight against the bottom of the jaws.
take care not to get dirt under the trap pan

Fig 21. Stretch the pan cover tightly across the pan and under the
jaws. Pan and jaws should be level and flat. In cold weather, plastic
can be placed under the trap. Place plastic baggies on each spring and
mix table salt with dry soil or peat moss to cover the trap. Set the
other trap as shown above. Place the pan cover so that the dog or
trigger can move upward without binding it in. Anything that slows the
action of the trap can cause a miss or a toe hold.
sift dirt over coyote trap make coyote trap set look natural

Fig. 23. The trap should be set about 1/4 inch below the level of the
surrounding ground. The set must look natural. The soil around the trap
and over the springs, chains, and stake should be packed to the same
firmness as the ground the coyote walks on in its approach to the set.
Only soft soil should be directly over the trap pan within the set jaw
area. Use a curved stick, brush, or rib bone to level soil over the
trap.
place object near trap that can be easily seen bait trap remove signs
of human presence gather left over dirt dispose of left over dirt how
to leave the trap set area

Always bury the traps and stake in the ground using dry, finely sifted
soil. One of the most difficult aspects of using traps is trapping when
the ground is frozen, muddy, wet, or damp. If the weather is expected
to turn cold and/or wet, you should use one or a combination of the
following materials in which to set and cover the traps: Canadian
sphagnum peat moss, very dry soil, dry manure, buckwheat hulls, or
finely chopped hay. A mixture of one part table salt or calcium
chloride with three parts dry soil will prevent the soil from freezing
over the trap. When using peat moss or other dry, fluffy material,
cover the material with a thin layer of dry soil mixed with 1/4
teaspoon of table salt. This will blend the set with the surrounding
soil and prevent the wind from blowing peat moss away from the trap. As
an alternative, traps could be set in a bed of dry soil placed over the
snow or frozen ground.

Guiding Coyote Footsteps. Use a few strategically placed dirt clods,
sticks, small rocks, or stickers around the set to guide the coyote's
foot to the traps. Coyotes will tend to avoid the obstacles and place
their feet in bare areas. Do not use this method to the extent that the
set looks unnatural.

Care of Coyote Traps. New traps can be used to trap coyotes, but better
results may be obtained by using traps that have been dyed. Dyeing
traps helps prevent rust and removes odors. Wood chips or crystals for
dyeing traps are available from trapping supply outlets. Some trappers
also wax their traps to prevent them from rusting and to extend the
life of the traps.

Inevitably, rusting will occur when traps are in use. It does not harm
the traps, but after their continued use the rust often will slow the
action of the trap and cause it to miss a coyote. Traps also become
contaminated with skunk musk, gasoline, oil, blood, or other odors. It
is important that traps be clean and in good working condition. Rusted
traps should be cleaned with a wire brush to ensure that the trigger
and pan work freely. Check the chain links for open links. File the
triggers and receivers to eliminate all rounded edges. Make any
adjustments necessary so that the pan will sit level and the trap
perform smoothly.

Size of Traps for Coyotes. There are many suitable traps for catching
coyotes. Both the No. 3 and No. 4 are good choices. Many trappers
prefer a No. 3 coilspring round-jawed off-set trap. It is a good idea
to use superweld kinkless chain. The length of chain varies depending
on whether the trap is staked or a drag is used. A longer chain should
be used with a drag. The off-set jaws are designed to reduce broken
foot bones, which can allow the coyote to escape by wriggling out of
the trap. Traps with coil springs are good coyote traps, but they
require more upkeep than a double long-spring trap. The type and size
of trap may be regulated in each state. Body gripping traps are
dangerous and illegal in some states for catching coyotes. When pet
dogs might be present, use a padded-jaw No. 3 double coilspring trap.

While additional testing needs to be conducted, results of research to
reduce injury using padded-jaw traps have been encouraging. In tests
with No. 3 Soft-Catch(R) coilsprings, No. 3 NM longsprings, and No. 4
Newhouse longsprings, capture rates for coyotes were 95%, 100%, and
100%, respectively. Soft-Catch traps caused the least visible injury to
captured coyotes.

Anchoring Traps. Chain swivels are necessary for trapping coyotes. One
swivel at the stake, one in the middle of the chain, and one at the
trap are recommended. Drags (Fig. 30) instead of stakes can be used
where there is an abundance of brush or trees or where the ground is
too rocky to use a stake. Use a long chain (5 feet [1.5 m] or more) on
a drag.

Lures and Scents. Coyotes are interested in and may be attracted to
odors in their environment. Commercially available lures and scents or
natural odors such as fresh coyote, dog, or cat droppings or urine may
produce good results. Coyote urine works the best.

Problems in Trapping Coyotes. A great deal of experience is required to
effectively trap coyotes. Trapping by experienced or untrained people
may serve to educate coyotes, making them very difficult to catch, even
by experienced trappers. Coyotes, however, exhibit individualized
patterns of behavior. Many, but not all, coyotes become trap-shy after
being caught and then escaping from a trap. There is a record of one
coyote having been caught eight times in the same set. Some coyotes
require considerably more time and thought to trap than others. With
unlimited time, a person could trap almost any coyote.

If a coyote digs up or springs a trap without getting caught, reset the
trap in the same place. Then carefully set one or two traps near the
first set. Use gloves and be careful to hide the traps. Changing scents
or using various tricks, such as a lone feather as a visual attraction
near a set, or a ticking clock in a dirt hole set as an audible
attraction, may help in trying to catch wary coyotes.

Resetting Traps and Checking Trap Sets. Once a coyote is caught at a
set, reset the trap in the same place. The odor and disturbance at the
set where a coyote has been caught will often attract other coyotes.
Sometimes other coyotes will approach but not enter the circle where
the coyote was caught. If signs indicate that this has happened, move
the trap set outside of the circle. Leave all sets out for at least 2
weeks before moving the traps to a new location. Check the traps once
every 24 hours, preferably in the morning around 9 or 10 o'clock.
Reapply the scent every 4 days, using 8 to 10 drops of coyote urine.

Human Scent and Coyote Trapping. Minimize human scent around trap sets
as much as possible.

Fig. 30. Trapping drag

Coyote trap drags

If traps are being set in warm months, make sure the trapper has
recently bathed, has clean clothes, and is not sweating. Leave no
unnecessary foreign odors, such as cigarette butts or gum wrappers,
near the set. Wear clean gloves and rubber footwear while setting
traps. A landowner may have an advantage over a stranger who comes to
set traps since the coyotes are acquainted with the landowner's scent
and expect him/her to be there. Coyotes have been known to leave an
area after encountering an unfamiliar human scent.

Because of human scent, coyotes are more difficult to catch with traps
in wet or humid weather. Wear gloves, wax traps, and take other
precautionary measures in areas where humans are not commonly present,
where wet weather conditions are common, and where coyotes have been
trapped for several years and have learned to avoid traps.

Killing a Trapped Coyote. A coyote will make its most desperate attempt
to get out of the trap as a person approaches. As soon as you get
within a few feet (m) of the coyote, check to see that the trap has a
firm hold on the coyote's foot. If so, shoot the coyote in the head,
with a .22 caliber weapon. It is often a good idea to reset the trap in
the same place. The blood from the coyote will not necessarily harm the
set as long as it is not on the trap or on the soil over the reset
traps. Reset the trap regardless of the species of animal captured,
skunks included.

Draw Stations. Draw stations are natural areas or places set up
intentionally to draw coyotes to a particular location. For example,
the straw and cleanings from a chicken house can be placed in an area
where coyote tracks are found. Traps can then be set around the edges
of the straw. Areas around carcasses or parts of animals, such as a
cow's head, are good places to set traps. Wire the carcass to a stake
driven into the ground and out of sight. Once coyotes start feeding,
set traps 30 to 60 feet (9 to 18 m) upwind from the carcasses or draw
station. Never set traps very close to carcasses because nontarget
animals such as vultures, eagles, hawks, skunks, and opossums will be
caught. If sheep graze in an area where traps are set, cover the traps
with a disc blade or brush during the day and uncover them at night
when the sheep are penned.

Opposition to Traps. Opposition to foothold traps is based primarily on
two objections: (1) a lack of selectivity for the animal which the trap
is set for and (2) foot injury sustained by the captured animal. Trap
pan tension devices such as sticks, forked twigs, springs, and sponges
placed under the trap pan have been used for many years to reduce
captures of nontarget species. Many coyote traps have an adjustable pan
tension screw. One study evaluated two pan tension devices. Preliminary
results indicated that the use of either device could exclude nearly
90% of the gray foxes, swift foxes, striped skunks, opossums, and
jackrabbits that stepped on traps, as compared with 24% on average for
unequipped traps. A variety of other species were excluded at even
higher rates. Some coyotes were also excluded, but because more traps
remained functional, the net result appeared to be an increase in
coyote trapping efficiency. Advances in trap design, including off-set
jaws and padded-jaw traps, have increased the humaneness of foothold
traps. Traps should be checked once or twice each day to minimize the
length of time that an animal must remain in a trap.
coyote snare components Fig. 33. Setting the snare

proper staking and setting of coyote snare

Fig. 34. Fastening the snare to the stake

Snares Snaring is the technique of setting a steel-cable loop in an
animal's path to capture it by the neck, body, or leg. Snares usually
consist of a 2.5- to 10foot (0.75- to 3.0-m) long piece of galvanized
aircraft cable containing a slide lock that forms a loop in the cable
(Fig. 31). On short snares, a swivel to prevent twisting and breaking
the cable is attached to the end of the cable opposite the loop. On
longer snares, swivels can be located near the middle of the cable and
at one end.

Snares offer several advantages over steel foothold traps. They are
lightweight, compact, simple in function, affected little by weather,
easy to set, low in cost, and offer a high degree of human safety. In a
south Texas study, snares were 10 times more selective over steel
foothold traps for target species of coyotes and bobcats. Snares,
however, can be a greater hazard than traps to livestock. Recent
research has produced deer stops and break-away or relaxing locks that
have significantly improved snare specificity.

Preparation of Snares.New commercial snares and extension cables can be
cleaned by boiling each dozen snares in a pan or bucket of water with 4
tablespoons (16 gm) of baking soda for one hour. The snares will turn a
dull gray after being removed from this bath and hung up to dry
outdoors. Darken snares by boiling them in brown logwood crystals and
dye. After boiling, snares should be kept clean of foreign odors. Wear
clean gloves when handling and setting snares.

How to Set Snares. Snares designed to capture predators by the neck or
leg are set directly in the animal's path of movement and are held in
place using various techniques. One support that works particularly
well can be constructed from a 36-inch (0.9-m) piece of 12-gauge
galvanized or 9-gauge soft wire. Form a V bend in the support wire,
about 4 inches (10 cm) from the end, and drive the wire into the ground
with a notched rod (Fig. 32) to prevent the support from moving in the
wind. Wrap the snare around the support about three times and hold it
in place with a U bend formed in the upper end of the snare support.
Bend the snare cable upward slightly, just inside the lock, to ensure
that the snare loop is not closed by the wind (Fig. 33).

Snares should be attached to a solid object so that captured animals
cannot escape (Fig. 34). A steel 1/2-inch (1.3- cm) diameter rebar, 24
to 30 inches (61 to 72 cm) long (depending on soil hardness), makes a
good anchor for coyotes and smaller predators. Attach snares to the
rebar with a strong swivel to prevent tangling and breaking. A lead
cable that is at least as strong as the snare cable can be used to
attach short snares to the rebar stake. Avoid using 9-gauge (0.38-cm)
wire or several strands of 14-gauge (0.21-cm) wire to anchor snares to
a rebar stake because they may bend back and forth, crystallize, and
break. When used for coyotes, snares also can be secured to a dead tree
limb that is at least 6 inches (15 cm) in diameter and 6 feet (2 m)
long.
snare set on woven wire

Snares set in holes under woven-wire fences can be held in place about
1 to 2 inches (2.5 to 5 cm) from the fence with the snare support
system (Fig. 35). The snare should be set far enough away from the
fence to prevent the lock from catching on the bottom wire of the
fence. The bottom of the loop should be about 2 inches (5 cm) above the
bottom of the hole. The snares can be anchored to the heavy-gauge wire
on the bottom of the fence. Two strands of baling wire or S hooks can
be used to fasten the snare to the bottom wire.

If there is a chance of accidentally catching a pet dog, a leg snare
set is recommended (Fig. 36). Set a small loop about 5 inches (13 cm)
or less to one side of the opening, and set the bottom of the loop on
the ground. When a coyote goes under a fence, it places both front feet
firmly on the ground, and sticks its head just under the bottom wire.
Once its head is past the bottom wire, the coyote begins to raise its
head. The idea is to set the leg snare so that one front foot will pass
through the snare.

Snares are usually set in the form of a round or oval loop. In a trail
set (Fig. 37), a round loop that is 12 inches (30 cm) in diameter can
form an oval loop that is about 14 inches (36 cm) high and 10 inches
(25 cm) wide. Use a 5/64- or 3/32-inch (0.2- or 0.24-cm) diameter
galvanized aircraft cable for snaring coyotes. Varying round loop
diameters and heights above ground is recommended when snaring coyotes
(Table 1). The loop size in a hole in a fence should vary depending
upon the size of the hole.


image of snare set to catch the leg of a coyote

CAPTION: Table 1 Specific loop dimensions for snaring coyotes

Height of
Round loop Loop above
Type of Set diameter Ground
Inches Centimeters Inches Centimeters
Trail 9-12 (23-30) 10-12 (25-30)
Under
Fence 7-10 (18-25) 2 (5)



Where to Set Snares. Animals usually follow the easiest route through
heavy cover. These routes, which generally consist of trails, are
excellent locations to snare predators. Snares are effective along
trails leading to draw stations. Some effective locations for snaring
coyotes include: (1) along trails in thickets or heavy vegetation
leading to a carcass, (2) on trails under fences, (3) on livestock
trails in vacant pastures, (4) in the bottoms of ravines, and 5) on
narrow paths inside weeds or brush. Trails can be created by driving on
weeds or stubble with a pickup, by walking in snow, or by mowing a
trail through weeds or grass with a weed eater.

Regulations for Snaring. Snares are not legal in all states. Where
snares are legal, most states have regulations which require that
snares be visually inspected every 24 hours. Snares should be checked
early in the morning to increase the probability of releasing nontarget
animals unharmed.

Methods to Avoid Capturing Nontarget Animals. Sites where snares are
set should be carefully selected to avoid capturing nontarget animals.
Avoid setting snares: (1) in pastures with livestock, (2) within 25
yards (23 m) of animal carcasses (to prevent capturing birds of prey
and other scavengers), (3) within major deer, elk, or antelope
wintering areas (these big game animals are much less susceptible to
foothold traps), (4) on any trails being used by livestock, deer, elk,
and other nontarget animals (attract predators away from these trails
with specific baits and lures), (5) under fences where livestock,
antelope, deer, or nontarget dogs are using the "crawl space," and (6)
where people can readily view captured animals.

Coyote trail snare Fig. 37. Trail snare set

Use a short snare cable to reduce injuries where accidentally captured
dogs might jump over a fence or a tree branch. Also avoid using
entangling devices (attachments that increase the chance of killing the
snared animal) where dogs might be captured. Use the lightest snare
lock (breakaway lock) possible to capture the desired animal. If
livestock, deer, elk, or antelope are captured by a leg, they can
usually break a light lock but may be held by heavy locks. Record the
location and number of snares on a map so they can be found, and remove
all snares when damage stops or when they cannot be checked frequently.

Shooting

Shooting coyotes is legal in many situations, and it often ranks high
among the choices for removing a predator. Safety, however, is a
critical factor that in some circumstances may preclude the use of
firearms (for example, local laws may prohibit shooting, or neighbors
may be too close).

For shooting coyotes, a medium-powered bolt-action rifle fitted with a
scope is recommended. The .223 Remington, .22-250, .220 Swift, or the
.243 Winchester are all capable of killing a coyote up to a distance of
250 yards (225 m). Since coyotes are able to detect human scent, the
shooter should take a stand downwind from where the coyote will likely
approach. An elevated location where the lighting works to the
shooter's advantage is a good choice. If predators are killing sheep in
the daytime, construct a comfortable blind at a vantage point in the
pasture where the killing has occurred. Whenever possible, rest the
rifle on a solid support while aiming. A homemade shooting stick will
improve accuracy over shooting freehand.

A shotgun, preferably a 12-gauge semi-automatic, can be used for
shooting at short range (less than 50 yards [45 m]). Often it is
advisable to have both a 12-gauge shotgun and a scoped rifle available.
Copper-coated (BB) lead shot, No. 4 buckshot (lead), and in newer
shotguns, the larger-sized steel shot works well for killing coyotes.

Shooting From Ground Vehicles. Shooting from vehicles (snowmobiles,
motorcycles, and pickups) in open, flat prairie country can be
effective and provide immediate results. Under most circumstances,
however, this method is not practical as it requires keen driving
skills, is dangerous, and is illegal in most states.

Calling and Shooting Coyotes. Coyotes may respond to predator calls.
Calling, like other methods of predation control, should be used
sparingly and only when needed. Coyotes can be called at any time of
the day although the first couple of hours after dawn and the last few
hours before darkness are usually best. Call in areas where there are
signs of coyotes, such as tracks or droppings.

In some situations, coyotes can be located by listening to their
howling at sundown and sunrise. Some hunters use sirens to elicit howls
from coyotes. Often a voice imitation of a coyote howl works as well.
Coyotes often come to a howl without howling back, so the prudent
hunter is always ready to shoot.

Hunting at Night. Not many people have witnessed predators killing
livestock because it usually occurs at night, away from human activity.
As stated previously, calling and shooting predators at night is
illegal in many states. Where legal, however, hunting at night with the
use of artificial lights may be effective. Red or blue light tends to
spook predators less readily than white light does. Calling without the
use of artificial lights is effective only with snow cover and the
light of a full moon.

Aerial Hunting. The use of aircraft for shooting coyotes is strictly
regulated by the provisions of the Airborne Hunting Act and is allowed
only under special permit in states where legal. Aerial hunting is
selective and allows taking only the target species. Although it is
costly, it may be one of the most cost-effective methods of reducing
predator damage when all factors are considered. It is often the best
method where conditions are right for removing depredating animals that
have successfully evaded traditional ground control methods such as
trapping.

Fixed-wing aerial hunting is limited primarily to open areas with
little vegetative cover. The greater maneuverability of helicopters
makes them more useful for hunting in areas of brush, scattered timber,
and rugged terrain.

Although aerial hunting can be conducted over bare ground, it is most
effective where there is deep snow cover. Animals are more visible
against a background of snow and are much less mobile in their attempts
to avoid the aircraft. Under optimal conditions of clear, sunny skies
and fresh snow cover, much of the hunting can be accomplished by
searching for and following fresh coyote tracks. Aerial hunting success
can be increased when conducted with the assistance of a ground crew.
Before the plane arrives, a ground crew can locate coyotes in the
hunting area by eliciting howls with a siren, a mouth-blown howler
call, or a voice howl. Two-way radio communication allows the ground
crew to direct the aircraft toward the sound of the coyotes, thus
reducing hunting time.

Aerial hunting is not recommended for, nor undertaken by, most
livestock producers because of the special skills required of both
pilot and gunner and the danger inherent with the low-level flight.
Although weather, terrain, and state laws limit the application of this
method, it can often provide a prompt resolution to depredation
problems.

Denning

Predation can frequently be resolved by locating coyote dens and
removing the pups and/or the adults responsible for depredations.
Denning may also be warranted as a preventive control strategy if
coyote predation has historically and consistently occurred in a
particular area during the lambing season.

Breeding pairs of coyotes are extremely territorial. They vigorously
defend their territories against other canine intruders. Coyotes often
den year after year in the same general location. If a particular
denning pair of coyotes has a history of existing with and not preying
on livestock, it may be to the producer's advantage to leave them
alone. Their removal will open up a territory that may become occupied
with coyotes that are more likely to prey on livestock.

Although tracking a coyote from a livestock kill back to its den
requires skill and persistence, it is probably the most foolproof
method to locate the den of the offending animals. If tracking is not
feasible because of poor tracking conditions or lack of the required
skills, there are alternatives that may be used.

Coyotes will usually howl in response to a howl from another coyote
near their den. One or both adult coyotes will often be near the den
between 7:30 to 9:00 a.m. A response can be elicited by voice howling,
blowing a coyote howler call, or broadcasting recorded calls from a
tape player. It is usually best to wait 30 minutes to 1 hour between
howls because the same coyotes may not respond again within that
period.

Once the approximate location of a den is determined, careful planning
is required to ensure the best chance of immediately removing the adult
coyotes. The hunter should approach the den unseen and downwind to
within calling distance, armed with a high powered rifle and/or
repeating shotgun loaded with heavy shot. A call that imitates the
whines or yelps of a coyote pup can be very effective under these
circumstances, especially when used in conjunction with a dog to act as
a decoy. A small-to medium-sized dog moving in the vicinity of the den
gives the coyotes something to focus on and reduces the likelihood that
the hunter will be detected. The sounds of a pup in distress along with
the sight of a dog so near the den will cause most coyotes to display
highly aggressive behavior, frequently chasing the dog back to within
close proximity of the hunter.

After the adults are removed, the pups can be killed by fumigating the
den with a gas cartridge registered for this purpose, or the pups can
be dug out by hand. If attempts to shoot one or both adults are
unsuccessful, the chances of trapping or snaring them are improved if
the pups are left alive and confined in the den. This can be
accomplished by driving stakes 2 inches (5 cm) apart down through the
den entrance. Carefully place blind sets in the den trails or at the
den mound. Capture will often result when the adults return to
investigate the area. If the adults are not captured within a
reasonable period of time, the pups should be destroyed. Removal of the
pups is often effective in stopping predation even if the adult coyotes
are not removed.

An airplane can be used very effectively to locate coyote dens when
depredations occur in spring or early summer in open prairies or
sagebrush terrain. Early morning hours provide the best light
conditions for locating adult animals near the den site or as they
return from hunting. The low angle light reflects on the coyote and
provides good contrast with the surrounding vegetation and soil. Actual
den sign, however, shows up better during the middle of the day with
light coming from directly overhead. Dens are most easily located after
the pups have begun venturing outside. The pups soon trample down the
vegetation around the den, making the site more visible from the air.
If aerial shooting is legal, it is often possible to remove the adults
and pups in one operation. In open terrain, landings can often be made
within walking distance of the den.

Although denning requires special skills, training, and often
considerable time, the advantages can be significant. A cost-benefit
analysis conducted during one study determined that the cost to remove
a den of depredating coyotes could be recovered if only 3.6 lambs were
saved. In the same study, the average number of lambs killed by each
depredating pair of coyotes was 4.9 per week. While these findings
indicate that denning could be cost effective after only a few days,
the benefits actually continue in most instances for the duration of
the season. Denning can be very selective for the offending animals and
can resolve some depredation problems at relatively low cost.

Hunting with Dogs. Several breeds are generally known as trailing
hounds, including Walkers, Julys, redbones, blueticks, black and tans,
Plott hounds, and English fox hounds. Trail hounds follow the scent
left by a predator and run it to tree or bay it on the ground. Coyotes
are seldom caught and killed by trail hounds. In most instances, trail
hounds are used in combination with sight hounds. The trail hounds run
coyotes into the open, and then sight hounds are released to capture
the fleeing coyote. More commonly, coyotes are shot as they run from
the pack of hounds. Sight hounds, generally greyhounds or Russian wolf
hounds, are used in open prairie country to run coyotes down and kill
them.

Economics of Damage and Control

Sheep numbers in the United States have declined about 80% from 1942 to
1976 (Gee et al. 1977). Former sheep producers reported that the
principal reasons for leaving the sheep industry included high
predation losses, low lamb and wool prices, a shortage of good hired
labor, and the producer's age.

The US Fish and Wildlife Service (1978) estimated the economic impact
of coyote predation on producers with predator problems, on producers
without predator problems, and on consumers during 1977. They used an

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