I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died" >>
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died" >>
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 10:46:37 -0700, Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> wrote:
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased >>> it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a >>> lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose. >>> He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust, >>> that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business. >>>
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated >>> into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go >>> back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died" >>>
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!
On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 10:46:37 -0700, Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> wrote:
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10"Just plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased >>> it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I
took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a >>> lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose. >>> He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust, >>> that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business. >>>
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and
spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated >>> into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go >>> back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The
oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not
know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died" >>>
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn
On 11/7/2024 8:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 10:46:37 -0700, Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> wrote:Has everyone lost their sense of humor?
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10" >>>> saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased >>>> it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980'sJust plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I >>>> took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a >>>> lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose. >>>> He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust, >>>> that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business. >>>>
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and >>>> spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated >>>> into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go >>>> back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The >>>> oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not >>>> know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!
Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> writes:
On 11/7/2024 8:08 PM, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 10:46:37 -0700, Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> wrote:Has everyone lost their sense of humor?
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:Along with all the magic smoke (and actually, no, it will NOT spin
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10" >>>>> saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line.  He purchasedJust plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as >>>> fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980's
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I >>>>> took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a
lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air hose. >>>>> He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of dust, >>>>> that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and >>>>> spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely >>>>> through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft >>>>> with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the >>>>> board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get >>>>> block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out MUST go >>>>> back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The >>>>> oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not >>>>> know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor "died"
trice as fast as it is a repuldion start INDUCTION motor which is
frequency dependent - not voltage!!!
No. But it's easy to miss the :), many readers of rec.woodworking
(if there are any left) will not understand the smiley, and there
are some who possibly may try your suggestion to their detriment.
On 11/7/2024 6:00 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 10:46:37 -0700, Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> wrote:See that :) ? That's a smiley face, it means I was joking.
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10" >>>> saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased >>>> it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980'sJust plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I >>>> took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a >>>> lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air
hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of
dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in
business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and >>>> spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely
through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be
separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft
with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the
board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get
block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out
MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The >>>> oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not >>>> know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor
"died"
fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn
But maybe getting hotter would burn the sawdust out. :) :)
On 11/7/2024 10:36 PM, Just Wondering wrote:
On 11/7/2024 6:00 PM, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 7 Nov 2024 10:46:37 -0700, Just Wondering <JW@jw.com> wrote:See that :) ? That's a smiley face, it means I was joking.
On 11/7/2024 6:36 AM, knuttle wrote:
I inherited my father in laws table saw. It is a Sear and Roebuck 10" >>>>> saw, knowing my father in law probably top of the line. He purchased >>>>> it about 1970, I got it some time in the late 1980'sJust plug that motor into a 220V outlet. The motor will spin twice as >>>> fast, and the centrifugal force will throw all that sawdust out. :)
The original motor has "died" twice since I got it. The first time I >>>>> took it to a shop. The guy dissembled it while I was there and found a >>>>> lot of fine dust inside of the case, which he blew out with an air
hose.
He reassembled it and it ran perfectly until about a week ago.
It "died" again about a week ago. But again I found it was full of
dust,
that interfered with a mechanical switch in the Capacitor start
assembly. Took it apart, blew the dust out and we are back in
business.
The point is that if you have an old motor that dies, don't run out and >>>>> spend $200 or more for a new motor.
With the old Sears motor there are four long bolts that go completely >>>>> through the motor. Removing these bolt allows the motor to be
separated
into four parts. The end with the electrical connections, the Shaft >>>>> with the electrical windings, the main body, and the opposite end.
Using an air hose blow the dust from each part. Concentrating on the >>>>> board with the electrical connection, as that has the switch that get >>>>> block. Reassemble as you took it apart.
NOTE: the motor should be unplugged, and all parts that come out
MUST go
back in as they were founds. NO parts left over.
Routinely blow the sawdust out of he motor and oil the bearings. The >>>>> oil points on my motor are covered by little rubber plugs. I did not >>>>> know what they were until the guy showed me the first time the motor >>>>> "died"
Stop! It's an induction motor, not DC. It will *not* run at twice
the speed, but it will try to get *four* time hotter than designed
for.
Joe Gwinn
But maybe getting hotter would burn the sawdust out. :) :)
Joe and Clare probably aren't much fun at parties. :)
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