1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes inlaid.
I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
hope for a consistent result.
There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
to 42" long.
So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
tiny Shop Smith TS.
This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
1/8" wide.
This is what I am going for.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
Thoughts?
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
inlaid.
I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
hope for a consistent result.
There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
to 42" long.
So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
tiny Shop Smith TS.
This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
1/8" wide.
This is what I am going for.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
Thoughts?
If the longest strips you need are 42”, why do you say you need
to cut 8’ strips?
I like the jig in the video although the flipping of the stop, the
resetting of the jig after each cut, etc. looks a little clumsy. I
guess if you get rhythm going, it might not be so bad.
Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t seem like the pressure would be enough.
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes inlaid.
I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side ofWhat about resawing a board to about 1/4" thick, then running through the planer to get 1/8" thick. Then its a matter of cutting strips out of the thin board on the table saw. I can do it on my planer. I am not sure about your combo jointer/planer.
the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
hope for a consistent result.
There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
to 42" long.
So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
tiny Shop Smith TS.
This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
1/8" wide.
This is what I am going for.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
Thoughts?
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 2:20:35 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.What about resawing a board to about 1/4" thick, then running through the planer to get 1/8" thick. Then its a matter of cutting strips out of the thin board on the table saw. I can do it on my planer. I am not sure about your combo jointer/planer.
There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and
drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes
inlaid.
I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and
hope for a consistent result.
There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up
to 42" long.
So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing
the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
tiny Shop Smith TS.
This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips
1/8" wide.
This is what I am going for.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
Thoughts?
On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?
I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".
Then build a jig with a GEM blade (at an angle) and a fence, where the blade is 1/4" from the fence and pull the 1/8" x 8" finished slabs
through the jig to slice off 1/4" x 1/8" strips.
On 4/10/2023 6:21 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?
1/8" wide and about 1/8" deep. Cutting a bit taller to make handling
easier and to have something to sand off to the surface of the walnut.
I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".
Agreed BUT white oak is better than red oak. I have build quite a bit
with cherry and over 1~2 years it has darkened considerably in our home.
That is great but the contrast would likely lessen over time against
the walnut. Maple too would be a good contrast but I hate working with >maple. Most of the maple down here does not stay straight after being
On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
There is what I am going to use for the rail and stiles of the door and >> drawer fronts for our kitchen redo.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
100 linear feet of 1x8 s4s walnut with 2, 1/8" wide white oak pinstripes >> inlaid.
I have the jig that sets the width of the thin rip to the left side of
the blade, the kind that you readjust the rip fence with every pass and >> hope for a consistent result.
There are numerous jigs out there but I also need to cut this strips up >> to 42" long.
So this guy has come up with an elegant solution that puts the thin
strip between the fixed object on the right side of the blade. So no
moving the fence with every pass. This method is not unique but with
90% of these type jigs you are kinda limited to short strips. The jig
in the video seems to have all the bases covered regardless of how thing >> the strips need to be and the fence never moves. And he does this on a
tiny Shop Smith TS.
This is the best jig I have seen for this purpose.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9Rt3IkcW08&t=24s
Now a question, I will be cutting approximately 72, 8' long thin strips >> 1/8" wide.
This is what I am going for.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52807026517/in/datetaken/
Band Saw or TS? I will for certain cut the 1/8" x 3/4" strips down to
3, 3/16" tall pieces on the BS.
Wood Glue? or Super Glue?
Thoughts?
If the longest strips you need are 42”, why do you say you needI have 158 pieces that need to receive 2 pinstripe pieces. The longer
to cut 8’ strips?
the pinstripe piece the more pieces I can get our of an 8' pieces vs. 2,
4' pieces. Some pieces are less than 4" long.
I may rethink that.
The plan is to work with 2'~5' pieces and glue them in place and then
cut to length. I need to over size the cuts on the walnut so that the pinstripes stick out each end. I don't want to have to cut the
pinstripes to exact length before gluing them in.
I like the jig in the video although the flipping of the stop, the resetting of the jig after each cut, etc. looks a little clumsy. II think better than repositioning the rip fence every time.
guess if you get rhythm going, it might not be so bad.
Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? CertainlyYes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a bunch.
Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling
a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.
This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get
to the end, most other jigs do not.
https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the useYeah I missed that part.
of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t seem like the pressure would be enough.
Yes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly
not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re
done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a
bunch.
Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling
a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.
That's not how he resets it. Maybe it's because of his guard, but he lifts
it off the table almost every time. Look at the video in the background
here. There's only one time he pulls it back and then the next time he
lifts it again.
https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?t=413
Without a guard, yes, pulling it back would be easier. I don't know if
you use a guard or if your guard allows it to be pulled back. The guard
on my 70's vintage Craftsman has kickback pawls that would have to
be defeated but the jig would still hit the guard itself. Not that I actually use my guard, but he claims that one of the advantages of his jig is
that it can be used with the guard. With all of the cuts you will be making, lifting that jig every time would be brutal
This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get
to the end, most other jigs do not.
Yep...saw that. That is a good feature.
Assuming that it can actually be pulled back after each cut, I wonder if modifying it to be an over-the-fence jig would make it even better. Then
you wouldn't even have to think about feeding it straight along the fence.
It would do that on its own.
Yeah I missed that part.
https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use
of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t >>> seem like the pressure would be enough.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
On 4/10/2023 6:21 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
On 4/10/2023 5:03 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Monday, April 10, 2023 at 3:20:35 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
1/8" thin strips that are about 1/4 thick/tall.
The stringing is 1/8 wide, and 1/4" deep, then?
1/8" wide and about 1/8" deep. Cutting a bit taller to make handling
easier and to have something to sand off to the surface of the walnut.
I'd start with 1x8 white oak (although I think a less coarse grain
would be easier to work, e.g. maple or cherry both of which contrast
well with walnut). Joint one face, resaw a 3/16" slabs, then
with a drum sander, sand the resawn (non jointed) face to 1/8".
Agreed BUT white oak is better than red oak. I have build quite a bit
with cherry and over 1~2 years it has darkened considerably in our home.
With the cherry, I'd use sapwood instead of heartwood; the sapwood
stays pale and doesn't age like the heartwood.
That is great but the contrast would likely lessen over time against
the walnut. Maple too would be a good contrast but I hate working with
maple. Most of the maple down here does not stay straight after being
Have you tested the moisture content? I get pretty good stuff
(or have in the past anyway) out here in california, it all
comes from east of the mississippi, I had stored the
8/4 stuff that I used for my workbench for several years before
cutting it, allowing it to acclimate.
On 4/10/2023 8:20 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Snip
Yes I have 2 and for many many years, but they do not insure that the
Have you considered a Grr-Ripper (or 2) with the 1/8” leg? Certainly >>> not as inexpensive as that homemade jig, but it should get the job
done without the “resetting” after each pass. Plus, after you’re >>> done, you’ll have a Grr-Ripper (or 2) ;-)
thin pieces will not get battered by the blade, the fence not letting
the piece be free. With the jig there is room for the strip to be in
open space after being cut until the very end of the cut and not
possibly being scorched by the blade. The gripper is good but I have
had issues with them when needing to do thin material. I need to cut a
bunch.
Resetting is simply a matter of pulling the jig back, similar to pulling >> a miter gauge back after each cut and then flipping the arm back down.
That's not how he resets it. Maybe it's because of his guard, but he lifts it off the table almost every time. Look at the video in the background here. There's only one time he pulls it back and then the next time he lifts it again.Yes, I don't use a guard, SS, Having to get repositioned around the
guard would be a pia. In my case, I would just slide it back into
position and lower the stop lever.
https://youtu.be/U9Rt3IkcW08?t=413
Without a guard, yes, pulling it back would be easier. I don't know ifAgreed, see above.
you use a guard or if your guard allows it to be pulled back. The guard
on my 70's vintage Craftsman has kickback pawls that would have to
be defeated but the jig would still hit the guard itself. Not that I actually
use my guard, but he claims that one of the advantages of his jig is
that it can be used with the guard. With all of the cuts you will be making,
lifting that jig every time would be brutal
This jig actually feeds the work through with a solid stop when you get >> to the end, most other jigs do not.
Yep...saw that. That is a good feature.
Assuming that it can actually be pulled back after each cut, I wonder if modifying it to be an over-the-fence jig would make it even better. Then you wouldn't even have to think about feeding it straight along the fence. It would do that on its own.I have thought about having it cradle the fence so that it would not
move away from the fence, just move along the fence.
Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to beYeah I missed that part.
https://youtu.be/v_RdyX2rd40
Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use >>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
seem like the pressure would be enough.
violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
lift up and float.
Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to beYeah I missed that part.
Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use >>>>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t >>>>> seem like the pressure would be enough.
violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
lift up and float.
Lifting and floating was also what I was picturing. I haven’t
look at it too deeply, but it crossed my mind that it might make
sense to make that flip arm not just be a pusher, but also a
hold down like most push sticks are.
On 4/11/2023 4:01 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Snip
Thinking on your question, it could kick back but not likely to beYeah I missed that part.
Unrelated (sort of) but I’m curious about his comment about the use >>>>> of the riving knife. Is a 1/4” strip on the inside of the blade really going
to cause kickback if the board “closes up”? Somehow it just doesn’t
seem like the pressure would be enough.
violently since there is little mass. And it would more likely simply
lift up and float.
Lifting and floating was also what I was picturing. I haven’tOk, So I built the jig and it took 3 minute adjustments to get this to
look at it too deeply, but it crossed my mind that it might make
sense to make that flip arm not just be a pusher, but also a
hold down like most push sticks are.
fit the way I wonted it to fit.
These are approximately 1/8" deep and the on nearest the middle was with
a different blade, one that cuts flat bottoms.
There was no tendency for the thin strip to come up, it was still
attached to the board that it was being cut from and then past the blade
I had to look closely to realize that the strip was still against the
jig, it did not fall away. And both pieces were similar in color. So
this was very stable wood. I'm happy with the results and will rip the strips into thirds, with my band saw to get 3 strips from each 1/8" x
3/4" strip. And hopefully yield 3, 3/16" tall pinstripes.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/52810457126/in/datetaken/
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