I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made chiefly
of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to make
the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Greg Guarino

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdguarino@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made chiefly

of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to make

the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Here's a video:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d81qIn-oT2o>

There are others that show the same approach. This is almost as good
as a track saw and a lot cheaper. I need to make another one.

Or maybe it's an excuse to buy a track saw <grin>.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 6:18:08 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Here's a video:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d81qIn-oT2o>

There are others that show the same approach. This is almost as good
as a track saw and a lot cheaper. I need to make another one.

Or maybe it's an excuse to buy a track saw <grin>.

In his video, Colin says something that I believe is incorrect. He talks about dealing with the thickness of the blade.

If I'm not mistaken, there is no need to worry about the thickness of the blade
because the measurement taken and the jig itself is on the part of the board that is being kept. The jig was cut such that *inside* of the blade will follow the edge of the jig which will be set right at the measurement mark. Therefore the width of the blade will impact the cut-off, not the good piece.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 16:25:10 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 6:18:08 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Here's a video:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d81qIn-oT2o>

There are others that show the same approach. This is almost as good
as a track saw and a lot cheaper. I need to make another one.

Or maybe it's an excuse to buy a track saw <grin>.

In his video, Colin says something that I believe is incorrect. He talks about >dealing with the thickness of the blade.

If I'm not mistaken, there is no need to worry about the thickness of the blade
because the measurement taken and the jig itself is on the part of the board >that is being kept. The jig was cut such that *inside* of the blade will follow
the edge of the jig which will be set right at the measurement mark. Therefore >the width of the blade will impact the cut-off, not the good piece.

As long as you cut the right direction, you're correct. The width of
the blade is immaterial. The cut is against the sacrificial/alignment
strip. The waste is outside of saw blade, not the inside which is
where the track is aligned with the cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdguarino@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made chiefly

of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to make

the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

]

I may be in the minority here but if your funds are short, I'd buy the
best track saw I could buy with some sort of parallel guide. Put off
the table saw until you can afford both. Track saws are amazing and
amazingly simple tools.

As a bonus, you can use the track as a router guide (track), as well.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

]

I may be in the minority here but if your funds are short, I'd buy the
best track saw I could buy with some sort of parallel guide. Put off
the table saw until you can afford both. Track saws are amazing and amazingly simple tools.

As a bonus, you can use the track as a router guide (track), as well.

I can afford to buy both, but I'm trying to predict if I'll have enough use for a track saw over the long haul.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 3:47:39 PM UTC-5, gdgu...@gmail.com wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to make

the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Greg Guarino

I own a Festool 55 track saw. And several rail lengths. I have used it some. Not a huge amount. It works very well for cutting straight lines. Perfectly straight. Usable directly in furniture or shelves straight off the blade. No clean up or
jointing necessary after cutting with the saw blade. For sheet goods plywood, it is great. For other types of cuts such as straight lining a crooked edge board, it is great. Trimming doors to clear carpet, great. But there are many cuts it is not the
right tool. Such as cutting shorter boards down to length. Table saw with miter gauge or chop saw is the right tool. Ripping boards into face frames, use a table saw, not the track saw. Like all tools, its not great at everything. But it is very,
very good at certain things. And probably worth having for many/some people.

As for which brand track saw and rails to get, watch YouTube videos to maybe make a choice. Festool, Metabo, Makita, DeWalt all have track saws. I think DeWalt has one. Different prices and maybe different results from these choices. Which is best or
worst or good enough is something you will have to decide. When I bought my Festool 55 about 15 years ago I think it was the only one available. Or the only one I knew about. So best was an easy choice.

As for making yourself a guide to make your circular saw act exactly like a fancy high priced track saw. I am sure that is possible. Maybe practical for some or many. But an analogy. I am sure some people have made a contraption with a threaded rod
and screw mechanism and a rack to hold an electric drill. They made a drill press!!!!!! Or you can just buy an expensive fancy dandy drill press. Your choice.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 8:13:50 PM UTC-5, gdgu...@gmail.com wrote:

I can afford to buy both, but I'm trying to predict if I'll have enough use for a track saw over the long haul.

The answer to this question is probably related to how much work you do with plywood and sheet goods. Or maybe how much straight line ripping of boards you do to get them ready to rip on a table saw. Track saw is great for straight cuts. Short and
long. But not really repetitive work. Cutting 20-30 boards to two foot lengths, not really a track saw strength. It can be done. But a table saw or chop saw is the right tool for this specific task. Cutting ONE 4x8 foot plywood into two foot widths,
track saw great. Especially great for work where its best to take the saw to the work instead of carrying the work to the saw. If you are ripping face frame material to 2 inch widths for your kitchen cabinets, and your parents kitchen cabinets, and
your sisters kitchen cabinets, and your brothers kitchen cabinets, and your cousins kitchen cabinets, then the track saw is not the best choice. Analogy: Its kind of maybe possibly like back in the olden days when lumberjacks cut all the trees with
axes. Chain saws are easier. But both will work.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 18:13:47 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdguarino@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

]

I may be in the minority here but if your funds are short, I'd buy the
best track saw I could buy with some sort of parallel guide. Put off
the table saw until you can afford both. Track saws are amazing and
amazingly simple tools.

As a bonus, you can use the track as a router guide (track), as well.

I can afford to buy both, but I'm trying to predict if I'll have enough use for a track saw over the long haul.

If you can afford both, go for it. All of us have some limit to our
funds. What would be your next tool choice if you didn't buy both?

If you're using sheet goods for cabinets, and the like, a track saw is
the best choice. It's not just for breaking down sheets for the table
saw. They're just as, if not more, accurate than a table saw.

Table saws excel at rips and dados. With a sled or miter gauge, small
parts are easier on a table saw, too. A track saw isn't appropriate.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:19:53 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 18:13:47 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

A track saw is portable, powerful, and accurate. It is the best thing for breaking down plywood. If you have to trim a bit here and there on plywood, it's quick and easy.

But pricey, yes. I bought a Makita and it was a lot.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 20:15:36 -0700 (PDT), Michael
<michaeldwilson2@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:19:53 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 18:13:47 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

A track saw is portable, powerful, and accurate. It is the best thing for breaking down plywood. If you have to trim a bit here and there on plywood, it's quick and easy.

But pricey, yes. I bought a Makita and it was a lot.

When I bought my Festool TS55 about 12 years ago, there were two
others on the market (Makita and I can't remember the other). All in,
the Festool wasn't that much more expensive than either alternative.
Things have changed some since. Even Kreg has gotten into the market.
I have no idea what the quality of any of the alternatives are. I've
had no reason to look.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

"russellseaton1@yahoo.com" <ritzannaseaton@gmail.com> wrote in news:b7011528-f748-405d-8737-3715cf3cba61n@googlegroups.com:

*snip*

As for making yourself a guide to make your circular saw act exactly
like a fancy high priced track saw. I am sure that is possible.
Maybe practical for some or many. But an analogy. I am sure some
people have made a contraption with a threaded rod and screw mechanism
and a rack to hold an electric drill. They made a drill press!!!!!!
Or you can just buy an expensive fancy dandy drill press. Your
choice.

A simple guide can be made with a piece of hardboard (or plywood) and
another piece of wood for a fence. Just screw the fence to the hardboard
and run your saw along it. (You can do both sides too, so one side is
about 1 1/4" and the other is about 3 1/2" or whatever your saw measures.) You'll need to apply some side pressure to keep the saw tight against the
fence so you'll definitely need to clamp the guide in place.

How do the track saws keep the track in place?

Puckdropper

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 10/4/2021 8:12 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 16:25:10 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 6:18:08 PM UTC-4, J. Clarke wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Here's a video:
<https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d81qIn-oT2o>

There are others that show the same approach. This is almost as good
as a track saw and a lot cheaper. I need to make another one.

Or maybe it's an excuse to buy a track saw <grin>.

In his video, Colin says something that I believe is incorrect. He talks about
dealing with the thickness of the blade.

If I'm not mistaken, there is no need to worry about the thickness of the blade
because the measurement taken and the jig itself is on the part of the board >> that is being kept. The jig was cut such that *inside* of the blade will follow
the edge of the jig which will be set right at the measurement mark. Therefore
the width of the blade will impact the cut-off, not the good piece.

As long as you cut the right direction, you're correct. The width of
the blade is immaterial. The cut is against the sacrificial/alignment
strip. The waste is outside of saw blade, not the inside which is
where the track is aligned with the cut.

Or in simpler terms, place the track on the keeper side.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 10/4/2021 3:47 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

Greg Guarino

With few exceptions a "good" track saw could replace a table saw. Cuts
on a Festool track saw are very clean.

I tend to break down sheets with my track saw but I rely on those cuts
to be accurate so that I do not have to make those cuts again on the TS.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 10/4/2021 8:13 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

]

I may be in the minority here but if your funds are short, I'd buy the
best track saw I could buy with some sort of parallel guide. Put off
the table saw until you can afford both. Track saws are amazing and
amazingly simple tools.

As a bonus, you can use the track as a router guide (track), as well.

I can afford to buy both, but I'm trying to predict if I'll have enough use for a track saw over the long haul.

Keep in mind that with a track saw you can straighten bowed boards much
more easily than with a TS. It almost would replace a jointer in that
respect.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Wed, 06 Oct 2021 08:41:49 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
wrote:

"russellseaton1@yahoo.com" <ritzannaseaton@gmail.com> wrote in >news:b7011528-f748-405d-8737-3715cf3cba61n@googlegroups.com:

*snip*

As for making yourself a guide to make your circular saw act exactly
like a fancy high priced track saw. I am sure that is possible.
Maybe practical for some or many. But an analogy. I am sure some
people have made a contraption with a threaded rod and screw mechanism
and a rack to hold an electric drill. They made a drill press!!!!!!
Or you can just buy an expensive fancy dandy drill press. Your
choice.

A simple guide can be made with a piece of hardboard (or plywood) and
another piece of wood for a fence. Just screw the fence to the hardboard
and run your saw along it. (You can do both sides too, so one side is
about 1 1/4" and the other is about 3 1/2" or whatever your saw measures.) >You'll need to apply some side pressure to keep the saw tight against the >fence so you'll definitely need to clamp the guide in place.

How do the track saws keep the track in place?

Rubber strips on the bottom or if you're chicken, clamps. The clamps
go into extrusions on the back side of the track, though, so aren't in
the path of the saw.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 09:20:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 10/4/2021 8:13 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

]

I may be in the minority here but if your funds are short, I'd buy the
best track saw I could buy with some sort of parallel guide. Put off
the table saw until you can afford both. Track saws are amazing and
amazingly simple tools.

As a bonus, you can use the track as a router guide (track), as well.

I can afford to buy both, but I'm trying to predict if I'll have enough use for a track saw over the long haul.

Keep in mind that with a track saw you can straighten bowed boards much
more easily than with a TS. It almost would replace a jointer in that >respect.

Resawing with a track saw? That's an image. ;-)

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On 10/6/2021 11:00 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Wed, 6 Oct 2021 09:20:41 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 10/4/2021 8:13 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:

On Monday, October 4, 2021 at 9:05:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Mon, 4 Oct 2021 13:47:37 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino

<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:

I've done a number of projects over the years, getting by without a table saw. I would use a circular saw and fence guide, and a miter saw for smaller crosscuts.

I have many of the typical hand-held power tools: sanders, routers, drills, etc. I also have a router table and drill press.

I would like to finally step up a bit, perhaps early next year. I plan to get a (hybrid) table saw, but courtesy of Hurricane Ida my first project is likely to be a fairly large set of built-in cabinets for the family room (12' x 36" x 16") made

chiefly of plywood. This will not be the last thing I make out of ply.

I'm wondering if I should buy a track saw (also). I should mention that I suck with a circular saw, having gotten by before by "jointing" some of the imperfect edges with a router and straightedge guide. Once I have a table saw I could use that to

make the finished cuts after breaking down the full sheets with a circular saw, but I'd love to avoid that.

In the past my ignorant questions have yielded some pretty good information. This one is pretty ignorant, so I'm hoping for even better results.

]

I may be in the minority here but if your funds are short, I'd buy the >>>> best track saw I could buy with some sort of parallel guide. Put off
the table saw until you can afford both. Track saws are amazing and
amazingly simple tools.

As a bonus, you can use the track as a router guide (track), as well.

I can afford to buy both, but I'm trying to predict if I'll have enough use for a track saw over the long haul.

Keep in mind that with a track saw you can straighten bowed boards much
more easily than with a TS. It almost would replace a jointer in that
respect.

Resawing with a track saw? That's an image. ;-)

Bowed, not cupped or warped is what I was shooting at. ;~)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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On 10/6/2021 3:41 AM, Puckdropper wrote:

"russellseaton1@yahoo.com" <ritzannaseaton@gmail.com> wrote in news:b7011528-f748-405d-8737-3715cf3cba61n@googlegroups.com:

*snip*

As for making yourself a guide to make your circular saw act exactly
like a fancy high priced track saw. I am sure that is possible.
Maybe practical for some or many. But an analogy. I am sure some
people have made a contraption with a threaded rod and screw mechanism
and a rack to hold an electric drill. They made a drill press!!!!!!
Or you can just buy an expensive fancy dandy drill press. Your
choice.

A simple guide can be made with a piece of hardboard (or plywood) and
another piece of wood for a fence. Just screw the fence to the hardboard
and run your saw along it. (You can do both sides too, so one side is
about 1 1/4" and the other is about 3 1/2" or whatever your saw measures.) You'll need to apply some side pressure to keep the saw tight against the fence so you'll definitely need to clamp the guide in place.

How do the track saws keep the track in place?

Puckdropper

Track saws have a recessed area that is parallel to the blade. The
track has a raised area that fits snugly into that recessed area. There
are adjustments for proper friction fit.


The tracks have a rubber friction pad that tuns the length of the track, 99.999% of the time the track will not slip from where you place it.
And most all have a recess on the bottom side, the same as the raised
spot on the top side. A special clamp will fit in that slot under the
track to hold the track if you want the extra insurance. I used a clamp
on my track a couple of times but can say that I may have only used the
clamps a time or two in the past 10 years. The rubber on the bottom of
the track really does a good job at holding it in place

The problem with making your own guide for your regular circular saw is
that many things can spoil the cut.

A track saw guides the saw and the saw cannot drift away from the track.
With a straight edge the saw could drift away from the straight edge.
And this can easily happen with an inferior blade, and especially if
the saw shoe edge is not parallel to the blade.

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On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 10:07:08 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

On 10/6/2021 11:00 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Resawing with a track saw? That's an image. ;-)

Bowed, not cupped or warped is what I was shooting at. ;~)

I've always either used a table saw, or a plane, for bowed boards.
With a bench stop and a smooth plane you can straighten to a sight line in just a few seconds. Won't work on plywood, of course (but plywood
doesn't usually bow).

That's important for me, I made my own track from hardwood plywood, one
5' and one 4' section, 9' when joined together. Table saw made the joined-pair
edge straight, and I glued/screwed a vertical hardboard rib to that edge.
A wood sled holds the circular saw, keeps the guard retracted, and engages the rib so the saw cannot, in a cut, twist or pull away from the guide. A good plunge mechanism with a smaller blade would be less awkward, but... I'm satisfied with the 7.25" Skilsaw.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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On Wed, 06 Oct 2021 08:41:49 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
wrote:

"russellseaton1@yahoo.com" <ritzannaseaton@gmail.com> wrote in >news:b7011528-f748-405d-8737-3715cf3cba61n@googlegroups.com:

*snip*

As for making yourself a guide to make your circular saw act exactly
like a fancy high priced track saw. I am sure that is possible.
Maybe practical for some or many. But an analogy. I am sure some
people have made a contraption with a threaded rod and screw mechanism
and a rack to hold an electric drill. They made a drill press!!!!!!
Or you can just buy an expensive fancy dandy drill press. Your
choice.

A simple guide can be made with a piece of hardboard (or plywood) and
another piece of wood for a fence. Just screw the fence to the hardboard
and run your saw along it. (You can do both sides too, so one side is
about 1 1/4" and the other is about 3 1/2" or whatever your saw measures.) >You'll need to apply some side pressure to keep the saw tight against the >fence so you'll definitely need to clamp the guide in place.

How do the track saws keep the track in place?

Depends. Sometimes weight and friction are enough, others you need to
clamp it.

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On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 1:07:51 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 10:07:08 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

On 10/6/2021 11:00 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Resawing with a track saw? That's an image. ;-)

Bowed, not cupped or warped is what I was shooting at. ;~)

I've always either used a table saw, or a plane, for bowed boards.
With a bench stop and a smooth plane you can straighten to a sight line in just a few seconds. Won't work on plywood, of course (but plywood
doesn't usually bow).

That's important for me, I made my own track from hardwood plywood, one
5' and one 4' section, 9' when joined together. Table saw made the joined-pair
edge straight, and I glued/screwed a vertical hardboard rib to that edge.
A wood sled holds the circular saw, keeps the guard retracted, and engages the
rib so the saw cannot, in a cut, twist or pull away from the guide. A good plunge mechanism with a smaller blade would be less awkward, but... I'm satisfied with the 7.25" Skilsaw.

This is how I used to work, and it did the job. I had to clamp my plywood/hardwood guide every time though, and the aluminum on a track saw is light and the rubber base prevents any slipping. (I have two unused clamps that came with the saw.) I've had
the track saw for over a year now and I'm still kind of amazed how quick and accurate it breaks down a sheet of plywood.

However, if someone is starting up a wood shop, I would recommend a good table saw. That seems to me a basic tool for multiple reasons.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 10/8/2021 9:24 AM, Michael wrote:

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 1:07:51 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 10:07:08 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

On 10/6/2021 11:00 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Resawing with a track saw? That's an image. ;-)

Bowed, not cupped or warped is what I was shooting at. ;~)

I've always either used a table saw, or a plane, for bowed boards.
With a bench stop and a smooth plane you can straighten to a sight line in >> just a few seconds. Won't work on plywood, of course (but plywood
doesn't usually bow).

That's important for me, I made my own track from hardwood plywood, one
5' and one 4' section, 9' when joined together. Table saw made the joined-pair
edge straight, and I glued/screwed a vertical hardboard rib to that edge.
A wood sled holds the circular saw, keeps the guard retracted, and engages the
rib so the saw cannot, in a cut, twist or pull away from the guide. A good >> plunge mechanism with a smaller blade would be less awkward, but... I'm
satisfied with the 7.25" Skilsaw.

This is how I used to work, and it did the job. I had to clamp my plywood/hardwood guide every time though, and the aluminum on a track saw is light and the rubber base prevents any slipping. (I have two unused clamps that came with the saw.) I've had

the track saw for over a year now and I'm still kind of amazed how quick and accurate it breaks down a sheet of plywood.

However, if someone is starting up a wood shop, I would recommend a good table saw. That seems to me a basic tool for multiple reasons.

It is difficult/impossible to cut groves, dado's, and rabbets in a
single pass with a track saw. Tenons would be difficult too.

And the TS would afford repeatable production type cuts more quick and
more easily.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 8 Oct 2021 12:02:22 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 10/8/2021 9:24 AM, Michael wrote:

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 1:07:51 PM UTC-5, whit3rd wrote:

On Wednesday, October 6, 2021 at 10:07:08 AM UTC-7, Leon wrote:

On 10/6/2021 11:00 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

Resawing with a track saw? That's an image. ;-)

Bowed, not cupped or warped is what I was shooting at. ;~)

I've always either used a table saw, or a plane, for bowed boards.
With a bench stop and a smooth plane you can straighten to a sight line in >>> just a few seconds. Won't work on plywood, of course (but plywood
doesn't usually bow).

That's important for me, I made my own track from hardwood plywood, one
5' and one 4' section, 9' when joined together. Table saw made the joined-pair
edge straight, and I glued/screwed a vertical hardboard rib to that edge. >>> A wood sled holds the circular saw, keeps the guard retracted, and engages the
rib so the saw cannot, in a cut, twist or pull away from the guide. A good >>> plunge mechanism with a smaller blade would be less awkward, but... I'm
satisfied with the 7.25" Skilsaw.

This is how I used to work, and it did the job. I had to clamp my plywood/hardwood guide every time though, and the aluminum on a track saw is light and the rubber base prevents any slipping. (I have two unused clamps that came with the saw.) I've had

the track saw for over a year now and I'm still kind of amazed how quick and accurate it breaks down a sheet of plywood.

However, if someone is starting up a wood shop, I would recommend a good table saw. That seems to me a basic tool for multiple reasons.

It is difficult/impossible to cut groves, dado's, and rabbets in a
single pass with a track saw. Tenons would be difficult too.

And the TS would afford repeatable production type cuts more quick and
more easily.

Parallel guides can make pretty short work of a sheet of plywood.
Faster than jockeying a sheet around a table saw.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)