I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 5:51:08 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
Use an abrasive cutoff blade.
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 6:51:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:large knobs with larger slots the hacksaw would be the place to start. You could take it to the next level and clock the slots so they all line up when tight... e.g., install them with padded pliers and make the slot direction and then cut the slots. ;~)
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?How many are you talking about here? If it's a handful or less I'd be inclined to do it with handtools..., e.g., hacksaw, slitting file, screw slot file. For relatively small knobs and slots the slitting and slot files would suffice. For relatively
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 6:51:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:large knobs with larger slots the hacksaw would be the place to start. You could take it to the next level and clock the slots so they all line up when tight... e.g., install them with padded pliers and make the slot direction and then cut the slots. ;~)
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
How many are you talking about here? If it's a handful or less I'd be inclined to do it with handtools..., e.g., hacksaw, slitting file, screw slot file. For relatively small knobs and slots the slitting and slot files would suffice. For relatively
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 08:34:36 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin <gros...@gmail.com> wrote:large knobs with larger slots the hacksaw would be the place to start. You could take it to the next level and clock the slots so they all line up when tight... e.g., install them with padded pliers and make the slot direction and then cut the slots. ;~)
How many are you talking about here? If it's a handful or less I'd be inclined to do it with handtools..., e.g., hacksaw, slitting file, screw slot file. For relatively small knobs and slots the slitting and slot files would suffice. For relatively
The screws are 1/4-20 and the heads 3/4". The width of the slot isn't
all that important. I'd like them to look nice. It's for a Shaper Workstation. ;-)
I ordered a metal blade from Amazon. The description says it'll cut
brass. I'll bury them in a 2x4 when I'm cutting so I shouldn't be in
too much danger. I looked around online and I found many sites saying
that it can be done but be careful of the "sticky" problem.
On Monday, October 10, 2022 at 10:42:30 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:large knobs with larger slots the hacksaw would be the place to start. You could take it to the next level and clock the slots so they all line up when tight... e.g., install them with padded pliers and make the slot direction and then cut the slots. ;~)
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 08:34:36 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin
<gros...@gmail.com> wrote:
How many are you talking about here? If it's a handful or less I'd be inclined to do it with handtools..., e.g., hacksaw, slitting file, screw slot file. For relatively small knobs and slots the slitting and slot files would suffice. For relatively
The screws are 1/4-20 and the heads 3/4". The width of the slot isn't
all that important. I'd like them to look nice. It's for a Shaper
Workstation. ;-)
I ordered a metal blade from Amazon. The description says it'll cut
brass. I'll bury them in a 2x4 when I'm cutting so I shouldn't be in
too much danger. I looked around online and I found many sites saying
that it can be done but be careful of the "sticky" problem.
Hand tools ? crude. ;~) The gunsmiths at Colonial Williamsburg make screws by hand and those guns sell for $10-20K+ (mostly depending on the barrel and lock used).
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 20:35:16 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin
Hand tools ? crude. ;~) The gunsmiths at Colonial Williamsburg make screws by hand and those guns sell for $10-20K+ (mostly depending on the barrel and lock used).
I'll let you know when I'm done with my gun. I'll expect $20,000.
Cash (PayPal is reported to the 87,000 new IRS agents).
On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 9:03:10 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 20:35:16 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin
Hand tools ? crude. ;~) The gunsmiths at Colonial Williamsburg make screws by hand and those guns sell for $10-20K+ (mostly depending on the barrel and lock used).
I'll let you know when I'm done with my gun. I'll expect $20,000.
Cash (PayPal is reported to the 87,000 new IRS agents).
I have connections there... worked for the foundation.
On Tue, 11 Oct 2022 19:22:45 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin
wrote:
On Tuesday, October 11, 2022 at 9:03:10 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 20:35:16 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin
Hand tools ? crude. ;~) The gunsmiths at Colonial Williamsburg make screws by hand and those guns sell for $10-20K+ (mostly depending on the barrel and lock used).
I'll let you know when I'm done with my gun. I'll expect $20,000.
Cash (PayPal is reported to the 87,000 new IRS agents).
I have connections there... worked for the foundation.That's one of the wonders of the world. How did these guys, 250 years
ago, make a rifle? A musket is one thing but a rifle is something
else entirely. Gunsmithing really is high art.
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 20:35:16 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin ><grossboj@gmail.com> wrote:
Cash (PayPal is reported to the 87,000 new IRS agents).
krw@notreal.com writes:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 20:35:16 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin
<grossboj@gmail.com> wrote:
Cash (PayPal is reported to the 87,000 new IRS agents).
Good grief. 50,000 of those are to replace retiring agents,
and the rest just return the IRS to a reasonable staffing level.
krw@notreal.com writes:
On Mon, 10 Oct 2022 20:35:16 -0700 (PDT), John Grossbohlin >><grossboj@gmail.com> wrote:
Cash (PayPal is reported to the 87,000 new IRS agents).
Good grief. 50,000 of those are to replace retiring agents,
and the rest just return the IRS to a reasonable staffing level.
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
On Sun, 9 Oct 2022 07:23:32 -0700 (PDT), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 5:51:08 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
Use an abrasive cutoff blade.
That's a good idea. Amazon has 10" metal blades for $11. It says
they're for chop saws but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The max
RPM is in the 6K region so that shouldn't be a problem either. The
manual for the Unisaw says the blade has to be rated for >4000RPM.
Then there is a metal blade "for aluminum and non-ferrous metals": <https://www.amazon.com/TOMAX-10-Inch-Aluminum-Non-Ferrous-8-Inch/dp/B01LXDARMZ/ref=psdc_552292_t2_B0052IP0GO?th=1>
I intend to bury the screws in a 2x4(?) so the blade won't be exposed
in any case.
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 6:51:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
I see you've met micky in another group. How that work out for you?
On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 9:02:16 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 9 Oct 2022 07:23:32 -0700 (PDT), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 5:51:08 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating.
I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot
at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
Use an abrasive cutoff blade.
That's a good idea. Amazon has 10" metal blades for $11. It says
they're for chop saws but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The max
RPM is in the 6K region so that shouldn't be a problem either. The
manual for the Unisaw says the blade has to be rated for >4000RPM.
Then there is a metal blade "for aluminum and non-ferrous metals":
<https://www.amazon.com/TOMAX-10-Inch-Aluminum-Non-Ferrous-8-Inch/dp/B01LXDARMZ/ref=psdc_552292_t2_B0052IP0GO?th=1>
I intend to bury the screws in a 2x4(?) so the blade won't be exposed
in any case.
Don't you have an old Craftsman radial arm saw lying around?
Back in my Soap Box Derby days, we used to use the abrasive cut off wheels
in a Craftsman RAS to cut 1/2"+ steel plates, some has wide as 12". Many, >many slow, shallow cuts.
This is a picture of a rear axle mount. The view is into the rear of my son's car,
the white "walls" being the fiberglass body of the car that tapered to a point at
the rear. The 3/4" square stock running across the picture is the axle. You can
see the holes where it comes through the shell. The other 5 pieces of steel, >including the large base plate, make up the mount. They were all cut on the RAS.
https://i.imgur.com/PYh58Pw.jpg
On Wed, 12 Oct 2022 18:51:56 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Sunday, October 9, 2022 at 9:02:16 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 9 Oct 2022 07:23:32 -0700 (PDT), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Saturday, October 8, 2022 at 5:51:08 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> >> I'm looking to a slot the heads of some brass knurled knobs. I was
thinking of mounting them in a line recessed in a piece of wood. I
was going to use threaded inserts to hold the knobs and a jam nut
on the back to fix the knob to hold its depth and keep from rotating. >>> >> I can then use my table saw (with an old carbide tip blade) to cut
through the wood, and brass in small increments until I have the slot >>> >> at the right depth.
Sound like a bad idea? Suggestion?
Use an abrasive cutoff blade.
That's a good idea. Amazon has 10" metal blades for $11. It says
they're for chop saws but I don't see why it wouldn't work. The max
RPM is in the 6K region so that shouldn't be a problem either. The
manual for the Unisaw says the blade has to be rated for >4000RPM.
Then there is a metal blade "for aluminum and non-ferrous metals":
<https://www.amazon.com/TOMAX-10-Inch-Aluminum-Non-Ferrous-8-Inch/dp/B01LXDARMZ/ref=psdc_552292_t2_B0052IP0GO?th=1>
I intend to bury the screws in a 2x4(?) so the blade won't be exposed
in any case.
Don't you have an old Craftsman radial arm saw lying around?
No, since I hadn't used it in 30 years, I found someone who wanted it.
I gave it away a few months ago to the same friend I gave my Craftsman >jointer to, last year. I was tired of looking at it and I wanted to
put the bandsaw there (to get it closer to the DC).
Impressive. It all looks machined.
Back in my Soap Box Derby days, we used to use the abrasive cut off wheels >>in a Craftsman RAS to cut 1/2"+ steel plates, some has wide as 12". Many, >>many slow, shallow cuts.
This is a picture of a rear axle mount. The view is into the rear of my son's car,
the white "walls" being the fiberglass body of the car that tapered to a point at
the rear. The 3/4" square stock running across the picture is the axle. You can
see the holes where it comes through the shell. The other 5 pieces of steel, >>including the large base plate, make up the mount. They were all cut on the RAS.
https://i.imgur.com/PYh58Pw.jpg
Santa Amazon delivered the non-ferrous metal, table saw blade
yesterday so I'll give it a try in the next couple of days.
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 343 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 12:57:33 |
| Calls: | 7,553 |
| Files: | 12,730 |
| Messages: | 5,653,528 |
