If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan >to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan >to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan >>to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >>hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs
for not wicking water.
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >>hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legsMany years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote: >> On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >> >>have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs
for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.Long ago I use spar urethane on most of my outside stuff. It will yellow to some extent.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
Knock down the shine (burnish) with a ScotchBrite pad or crumpled brown paper bag....
steel wool will work, but I don't like cleaning up the filings from the nooks and crannies.
My red maple patio swing was coated with Spar U 30 yrs ago.... partial afternoon sun
exposure. I recently power washed it, as 75% of the finish had failed. Only one seat slat
has become damaged and unsightly. I don't plan to refinish it, but more likely build a
new one with old cypress.
Sonny
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote: >> On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >> >>have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs
for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
gloss semi-gloss satin
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish
Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan >> to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >> hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
No suggestions here but has anyone considered IPE for this sort of
thing? I'm considering it for deck railing, um, rails with black iron balusters. and white PVC covered (PT) posts.
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>>> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs
for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 10:15:04 AM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote:The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs >> >> >for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
gloss semi-gloss satin
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish
Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.
From what I've been reading, any polyurethane finish is a b*itch to refinish as it has
to be sanded off once it starts to peel. That's why oil based finishes seem to be
recommended for exterior work. Just clean and recoat.
It's infuriating trying to find consistently clear comparisons on Pure Tung Oil, Tung Oil
Finishes, Pure Linseed Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil. I know the differences between the
products but so many articles (and forum responses) start out by explaining the
differences and then tend to drop the qualifiers, just calling one Tung Oil and the other
Linseed Oil. Most of the time you can't tell if they are talking about Pure or Boiled and
Pure or Finish.
As far as General Finishes products, I'm looking their Arm-R-Seal. They have a satin
finish, it's wipe-on so it's easy to apply and re-apply, but the ambering may be an issue.
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/arm-r-seal-oil-based-topcoat
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 10:31:29 AM UTC-4, Sonny wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:46:22 PM UTC-5, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.Long ago I use spar urethane on most of my outside stuff. It will yellow to some extent.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
As will most of the finishes I'm looking at. Either yellow over time or start out by ambering :-(
Knock down the shine (burnish) with a ScotchBrite pad or crumpled brown paper bag....
Thanks for that suggestion.
steel wool will work, but I don't like cleaning up the filings from the nooks and crannies.
I hate using steel wool on wood for the same reason. I safe it for my pots and pans after
SWMBO makes one of her excellent meals. Phenomenal cook but she tends to leave the
pots and pans a bit difficult to clean.
My red maple patio swing was coated with Spar U 30 yrs ago.... partial afternoon sun
exposure. I recently power washed it, as 75% of the finish had failed. Only one seat slat
has become damaged and unsightly. I don't plan to refinish it, but more likely build a
new one with old cypress.
Sonny
In reality, any refinishing I'll need to do (for appearance sake) will be limited to the 3 armrest
sections, the front seat rails and the top rails that support the back cushions. Whatever finish
I choose will be wipe on because I don't want to have sand any peeling finish (like poly) off
every few years.
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 08:09:44 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 10:15:04 AM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote: >> On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote:The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >> >> >>this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is >> >> >not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to >> >> >how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs >> >> >for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
gloss semi-gloss satin
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish
Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.
From what I've been reading, any polyurethane finish is a b*itch to refinish as it has
to be sanded off once it starts to peel. That's why oil based finishes seem to be
recommended for exterior work. Just clean and recoat.
It's infuriating trying to find consistently clear comparisons on Pure Tung Oil, Tung Oil
Finishes, Pure Linseed Oil and Boiled Linseed Oil. I know the differences between the
products but so many articles (and forum responses) start out by explaining the
differences and then tend to drop the qualifiers, just calling one Tung Oil and the other
Linseed Oil. Most of the time you can't tell if they are talking about Pure or Boiled and
Pure or Finish.
As far as General Finishes products, I'm looking their Arm-R-Seal. They have a satin
finish, it's wipe-on so it's easy to apply and re-apply, but the ambering may be an issue.
https://generalfinishes.com/wood-finishes-retail/oil-based-topcoats/arm-r-seal-oil-based-topcoat
It doesn't say it's for exterior use ?
John T.
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV
light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch
is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It
faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
maybe keep it
covered with a cover when not in use, not just in the winter. But then critters and mildew may take up residence. To keep it looking good you
have to have absolute minimum direct sunlight exposure.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, hereTo keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >>> hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from
turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV
light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch
is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It
faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any
maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
maybe keep it
covered with a cover when not in use, not just in the winter. But then
critters and mildew may take up residence. To keep it looking good you
have to have absolute minimum direct sunlight exposure.
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, hereTo keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I
don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking
nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and
get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from
turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV
light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch
is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It
faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any
maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint.  Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned
up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the
sun.  If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you.  Otherwise
you would not see the color of the wood.  UV inhibitors are short lived.
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply
every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight.  The
less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
On 7/24/2022 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, hereTo keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>> you have two options.
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I
don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking
nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and
get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from >>> turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV >>> light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch >>> is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It
faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any
maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned
up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the
sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise
you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived.
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. TheSomething to think about.
less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period
of time, it would not be difficult to find.
Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long
the features will actually last....
If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and
continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine furniture.
And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home
when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too.
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote: >>> On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>> >>have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs
for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
gloss semi-gloss satin
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish
Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.
On 7/23/2022 9:20 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >>> hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
No suggestions here but has anyone considered IPE for this sort of
thing? I'm considering it for deck railing, um, rails with black iron
balusters. and white PVC covered (PT) posts.
Ipe is a good outdoor wood. BUT it too will fade to a grey color when >exposed to sunlight. About 14 years ago I rebuilt 3 home owner park
benches out of Ipe. They look great other than a few years of sun
exposure when they turned grey.
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan >> to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >> hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan >to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:15:21 -0400, hubops@ccanoemail.com wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote: >>>> On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>>> >>have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is
not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to
how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs >>>> >for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
gloss semi-gloss satin
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish
Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
Spar varnish is called "spar varnish" because it's used to varnish the
spars on a sailboat. The spars flex under wind loading so the varnish
has to be flexible or it'll just flake off. If you don't need a
flexible finish, spar varnish isn't needed.
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 12:21:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:Something to think about.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, hereTo keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>>>> you have two options.
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I >>>>>> don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking
nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and
get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from >>>>> turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV >>>>> light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch >>>>> is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It
faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any
maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned
up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the
sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is
penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise
you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived. >>>
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply
every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. The
less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period
of time, it would not be difficult to find.
Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to
figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long
the features will actually last....
If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and
continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine
furniture.
And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home
when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too.
I guess it's possible that you haven't read all of my posts.
I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe even
more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that
I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way,
I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was
sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.
The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny
finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I
acknowledged his suggestions.
From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish, Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.
I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:33:56 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few >>> hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seen
plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).
On 7/24/2022 3:34 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:33:56 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seenA good idea but he has already bought the wood. Returning "may not" be possible.
plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).
And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo
our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and
less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or varnish!
Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 8:46:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 3:34 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:33:56 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>A good idea but he has already bought the wood. Returning "may not" be
wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't >>>>> have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>>> you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and
reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the
wood will not see the sun, or you it.
If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seen
plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).
possible.
Returning *was* possible, but not anymore.
The sofa section of the sectional, more or less. ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/YbrMW8Q.jpg
They've got some kind a weird return policy that includes the words
"not modified". Picky, picky.
And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo
our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and
less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or
varnish!
Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.
No problem. If you go that route, what will the inside of the doors look like? Different flooring has different backing. (Some have pads, etc.)
And while yes, the panels can be changed out, do you think you'd actually ever do that?
On 7/24/2022 9:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 8:46:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 3:34 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:33:56 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>A good idea but he has already bought the wood. Returning "may not" be
wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>>> you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seen
plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).
possible.
Returning *was* possible, but not anymore.
The sofa section of the sectional, more or less. ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/YbrMW8Q.jpgYour need to refinish that chest of drawers! LOL
They've got some kind a weird return policy that includes the wordsTell them the reason your are returning is because you bought short and
"not modified". Picky, picky.
got billed for long!.
I was once told I could not return a sheet of plywood because I had cut
it. I explained that only after I cut it did I notice the outer
veneer was de laminated. They finally understood.
And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo
our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and
less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or
varnish!
Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.
No problem. If you go that route, what will the inside of the doors look like? Different flooring has different backing. (Some have pads, etc.)The particular ones I was looking at had a hard balance surface on the
back, solid colored in the same shade as the front.
And while yes, the panels can be changed out, do you think you'd actually ever do that?I would like to have the option. In our neck of woods and in our
neighborhood we were the first buyers to go bold with what I described
as the "black" cabinets for the kitchen. They are actually a very dark
moca brown. The other choices for cabinet colors was the multiple
shades of honey brown oak cabinets. We were done with that look.
Apparently the builder was done with the color too as every spec home
that DR Horton built after that, to finish out the neighborhood, had the
dark brown moca color cabinets. In fact the builder asked permission
to photograph the interior of our home, before we moved in, to show the designers for another neighborhood how this all looked. Go figure.
Back to the question, we got tired of the dark brown and our kitchen is
only 12 years old.
Actually my wife is the problem.. ;~) The dark brown along with the
tiny details of the door frames catch dust. And the dust is hard to
remove from the cracks. So a smoother profile for the door frames,
shaker probably, and lighter color paint. We may not like the painted
and wood grain combination. Right now we are thinking some kind of
bleached grey wood grain for the panels and a tinted grey for the paint.
With center panels let into the backs of the door frames via rabbet
joints the panels can be easily removed and replaced. And the frames
can be easily painted another color if the center panels can be easily removed.
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 9:32:13 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 9:29 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 8:46:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:Your need to refinish that chest of drawers! LOL
On 7/24/2022 3:34 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:33:56 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>A good idea but he has already bought the wood. Returning "may not" be >>>> possible.
wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here >>>>>>> you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go... >>>>>>>
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>>>>> you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
If you're going to paint it, just make it out of Trex. I've seen
plenty of outdoor furniture made out of Trex (or equivalent).
Returning *was* possible, but not anymore.
The sofa section of the sectional, more or less. ;-)
https://i.imgur.com/YbrMW8Q.jpg
Tell them the reason your are returning is because you bought short and
They've got some kind a weird return policy that includes the words
"not modified". Picky, picky.
got billed for long!.
I was once told I could not return a sheet of plywood because I had cut
it. I explained that only after I cut it did I notice the outer
veneer was de laminated. They finally understood.
The particular ones I was looking at had a hard balance surface on the
And that reminds me, changing the narrative a bit here, I plan to redo >>>> our kitchen sooner than later. And kitchen cabinets take a beating
from spills and being wiped down. We are strongly considering an oil
based paint. But I still like the wood look. It downed on me that I
could probably use Pergo flooring for the center panels. And insert
them into rabbets on the back of the door frames. That way the panels
could be changed out. The 1/2" thick Pergo we are looking at is a
little more expensive than walnut, cherry, or oak veneer plywood. BUT
it will be tough as nails when it comes to wiping down the surfaces and >>>> less likely to stain. AND I would not have to apply a stain, paint, or >>>> varnish!
Sorry for taking this OT Derby Dad.
No problem. If you go that route, what will the inside of the doors look >>> like? Different flooring has different backing. (Some have pads, etc.)
back, solid colored in the same shade as the front.
I would like to have the option. In our neck of woods and in our
And while yes, the panels can be changed out, do you think you'd actually >>> ever do that?
neighborhood we were the first buyers to go bold with what I described
as the "black" cabinets for the kitchen. They are actually a very dark
moca brown. The other choices for cabinet colors was the multiple
shades of honey brown oak cabinets. We were done with that look.
Apparently the builder was done with the color too as every spec home
that DR Horton built after that, to finish out the neighborhood, had the
dark brown moca color cabinets. In fact the builder asked permission
to photograph the interior of our home, before we moved in, to show the
designers for another neighborhood how this all looked. Go figure.
Back to the question, we got tired of the dark brown and our kitchen is
only 12 years old.
Actually my wife is the problem.. ;~) The dark brown along with the
tiny details of the door frames catch dust. And the dust is hard to
remove from the cracks. So a smoother profile for the door frames,
shaker probably, and lighter color paint. We may not like the painted
and wood grain combination. Right now we are thinking some kind of
bleached grey wood grain for the panels and a tinted grey for the paint.
With center panels let into the backs of the door frames via rabbet
joints the panels can be easily removed and replaced. And the frames
can be easily painted another color if the center panels can be easily
removed.
I have snipped major portions of this post and forwarded it to your wife, highlighting the line where you said. "Actually my wife is the problem."
Good luck.
On 7/24/2022 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 12:21:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:Something to think about.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here >>>>>> you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>>>> you have two options.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go... >>>>>>
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I >>>>>> don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking
nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and >>>>>> get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type
varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from >>>>> turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV >>>>> light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The
front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to
rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch >>>>> is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It >>>>> faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any >>>>> maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned >>> up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the
sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is
penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise
you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived. >>>
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply >>> every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. The
less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period >> of time, it would not be difficult to find.
Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to >> figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long
the features will actually last....
If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and
continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine
furniture.
And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home
when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too.
I guess it's possible that you haven't read all of my posts.I have not.
I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe evenI understand. But every product is different and some products will
more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that
I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way,
I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was
sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.
have to be removed to refinish after they have fully cured. No need
to apologize!
The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I acknowledged his suggestions.
From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish, Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. PleaseMost of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between" maintenance.
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.
I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what
you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do
what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no
answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no
answer will not be good either. ;~)
And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only
indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At
that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.
Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
how it is working.
And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform
like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is
always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.
I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic expectations.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 8:38:52 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 12:21:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:I have not.
On 7/24/2022 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:Something to think about.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here >>>>>>>> you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors >>>>>>> you have two options.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go... >>>>>>>>
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I >>>>>>>> don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking >>>>>>>> nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and >>>>>>>> get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type >>>>>>> varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>>>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>>>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from >>>>>>> turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV >>>>>>> light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The >>>>>>> front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to >>>>>>> rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch >>>>>>> is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It >>>>>>> faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any >>>>>>> maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned >>>>> up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the >>>>> sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is >>>>> penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise >>>>> you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived. >>>>>
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply >>>>> every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. The
less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period >>>> of time, it would not be difficult to find.
Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to >>>> figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long >>>> the features will actually last....
If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and
continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine >>>> furniture.
And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home >>>> when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too.
I guess it's possible that you haven't read all of my posts.
I understand. But every product is different and some products will
I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe even
more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that
I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way,
I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was
sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.
have to be removed to refinish after they have fully cured. No need
to apologize!
Most of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a
The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny
finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I
acknowledged his suggestions.
From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish,
Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.
layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between"
maintenance.
I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what
I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do
what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no
answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no
answer will not be good either. ;~)
And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only
indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At
that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.
Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
how it is working.
And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform
like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is
always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.
I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic
expectations.
I get the impression that you are thinking that my expectations are higher than they actually are. I totally expect to have to maintain the finish on a regular basis. Always have.
In any case...
Monocoat is sending me some samples of their Hybrid Wood Protector.
https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961
I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
color as close to the original as possible.
Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if
there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may impart some pink tones - which I won't want.
Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep
the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks
the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all
I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more
sooner than later, should postpone the greying.
Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I
had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)
I hope that the Monocoat product gets SWMBO and I the look we want
because it fits one of my desires - maintenance does not require any
sanding, just cleaning and re-coating. (Yes, I am aware that "no sanding"
is not a given. Only the aging is.)
Woodcraft carries a resin-modified Tung Oil product - Waterlox Marine
Formula that supposedly "forms a protective and elastic finish against
sun/UV rays, harsh weather and moisture exposure."
Resin-modified Tung Oil - geez, something else for me to look up. ;-)
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 16:27:31 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sun, 24 Jul 2022 10:15:21 -0400, hubops@ccanoemail.com wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:46:19 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, July 23, 2022 at 4:33:47 PM UTC-4, hub...@ccanoemail.com wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 14:19:54 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Sat, 23 Jul 2022 07:04:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03Many years ago, I used spar varnish on a couple of pine outdoor
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>> >>this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
I have used an antique oil finish on the cedar stuff I built, but is >>>>> >not outside stuff. I think an oil finish would look good guess as to >>>>> >how often would be 6 months for outside.
Think I would try and not have the end grain on the bottom of the legs >>>>> >for not wicking water.
benches. They sat semi-protected under a patio roof - but left
outside all winter - blowing snow etc. the patio was wide open on
two sides - to the westerlies - and they still looked like almost
new 6 years later when we moved. Just some re-finish
required on the legs where the end-grain meets the patio stones
and where the finish would have worn off from dragging them
around the patio.
The Lee Valley web site < General brand > suggests 3 coats
- I'm pretty sure that is what I did.. but it was probably a
different brand - called spar varnish < boating ? >
John T.
Spar varnish is shiny, isn't it? If so, that's not the look we want.
Is there a way to make it not shiny (assuming it is)?
The brand that Lee Valley sells comes in
gloss semi-gloss satin
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/supplies/finishing/finishes/101863-general-water-based-exterior-varnish
Not called spar varnish maybe because it's water based <?>
Spar varnish is called "spar varnish" because it's used to varnish the >>spars on a sailboat. The spars flex under wind loading so the varnish
has to be flexible or it'll just flake off. If you don't need a
flexible finish, spar varnish isn't needed.
but it does have the UV and mold inhibiters.
John T.
My understanding at the time was that spar varnish
had UV inhibitors whereas regular "indoor varnish" did not.
... hence the price.
My fiberglass canoe builder recommended carnuba floor wax
for the canoe - from the hardware store - $ 5.99 per can -
same stuff at the boat store was 3 X the price.
John T.
On 7/25/2022 2:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 8:38:52 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/24/2022 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 12:21:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:I have not.
On 7/24/2022 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:I guess it's possible that you haven't read all of my posts.
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:Something to think about.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here >>>>>>>> you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go... >>>>>>>>
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I >>>>>>>> don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking >>>>>>>> nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and >>>>>>>> get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type >>>>>>> varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>>>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>>>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from
turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV
light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The >>>>>>> front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to >>>>>>> rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch
is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It >>>>>>> faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any >>>>>>> maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish
maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned >>>>> up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the >>>>> sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is >>>>> penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise >>>>> you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived. >>>>>
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply >>>>> every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. The >>>>> less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period >>>> of time, it would not be difficult to find.
Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to >>>> figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long >>>> the features will actually last....
If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and
continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine >>>> furniture.
And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home >>>> when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too. >>>
I understand. But every product is different and some products will
I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe even >>> more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that >>> I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way, >>> I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was
sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.
have to be removed to refinish after they have fully cured. No need
to apologize!
Most of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a >> layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between"
The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny >>> finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I
acknowledged his suggestions.
From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish, >>> Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.
maintenance.
I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what
I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do
what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no
answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no
answer will not be good either. ;~)
And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only
indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At
that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.
Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
how it is working.
And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform
like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is
always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.
I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic
expectations.
I get the impression that you are thinking that my expectations are higher than they actually are. I totally expect to have to maintain the finish on aYeah, ;~) but how many times?
regular basis. Always have.
In any case...
Monocoat is sending me some samples of their Hybrid Wood Protector.I was unaware that any of their products were for out doors. I'll be
anxious to see the results.
WOW! That may be your ticket for ease of application and
reapplication.
I have been using Rubio Monocoat and really like the ease of use.
Pricey but a little goes a very long way. I did not see any mention of
using their harder for the out door product.
https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961
I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
color as close to the original as possible.
Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may impart some pink tones - which I won't want.
Put a bit of mineral spirits on the wood to see what color it would
naturally be with a clear finish.
Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep
the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all
I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more
sooner than later, should postpone the greying.
Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)Remember the comment about my wife? I have sent this to Tammy, because
you know, you are a good friend! ;~)
On 7/24/2022 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish,
Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.
Most of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a >layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between" >maintenance.
I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what
I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do
what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no >answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no
answer will not be good either. ;~)
And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only
indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At
that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.
Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
how it is working.
And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform
like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is
always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.
I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic >expectations.
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here
you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go...
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read
this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking nice. I plan to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and get a few hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 4:36:08 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/25/2022 2:09 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 8:38:52 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:Yeah, ;~) but how many times?
On 7/24/2022 12:17 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 12:21:10 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:I have not.
On 7/24/2022 11:11 AM, Leon wrote:I guess it's possible that you haven't read all of my posts.
On 7/24/2022 11:00 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:Something to think about.
On Sunday, July 24, 2022 at 11:34:06 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 7/23/2022 9:04 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
If you were wondering what $1200 of clear Cedar looks likes, here >>>>>>>>>> you go. 20 @ 2 x4 x 8, 7 @ 1 x 4 x 10.To keep Cedar, or ANY OTHER wood for that matter, looking good outdoors
https://i.imgur.com/H91wIJl.jpg
If you are wondering what I'm going to do with it, here you go... >>>>>>>>>>
https://i.imgur.com/xWJqUBn.jpg
If you are wondering how I plan to finish it, so am I.
Seems that Boiled Linseed Oil is the finish or choice for Cedar. I >>>>>>>>>> don't
have any real issue with that except perhaps for the upkeep. I read >>>>>>>>>> this somewhere:
Once a week for a month
Once a month for year
Once a year for life
Yikes!
I don't want to stain the Cedar, I just want to keep it looking >>>>>>>>>> nice. I plan
to cover it in the winter, but it's going to to get rained on and >>>>>>>>>> get a few
hours of sun each day.
Any suggestions would be welcome. Thanks!
you have two options.
Keep it out of direct sunlight and or reapply a UV blocking type >>>>>>>>> varnish. This deteriorates every few years and had to be removed and >>>>>>>>> reapplied.
Or paint with a quality opaque paint. It still will look good but the >>>>>>>>> wood will not see the sun, or you it.
You have to block the suns UV direct rays to help prevent the wood from
turning grey.
My experience is that rains is not as big of an issue as the direct UV
light.
FWIW the home that my son bought from us is now 40 years old. The >>>>>>>>> front door is varnished solid fir. During storms it is exposed to >>>>>>>>> rain and the humidity is oppressive in the Houston area. BUT the porch
is about 8' deep and the front door NEVER gets direct sunlight. It >>>>>>>>> faces north. The door still looks really good and has never had any >>>>>>>>> maintenance.
Past the suggestions that you did not want to hear,
What suggestions did I "not want to hear"? I'm open to all
options and just discussing pros and cons.
Paint with a quality opaque paint. Then you only have to refinish >>>>>>> maybe every 10~15 years.
Clear finishes pretty much only protect against spills that get cleaned >>>>>>> up quickly.
For long lasting protection against sun damage you need to block the >>>>>>> sun. If you see the color of the wood through the finish some sun is >>>>>>> penetrating the clear finish and is reflected back to you. Otherwise >>>>>>> you would not see the color of the wood. UV inhibitors are short lived. >>>>>>>
What ever translucent or clear finish you use you will have to reapply >>>>>>> every few to several years if it is exposed to direct sunlight. The >>>>>>> less direct exposure the longer the finish will last.
If there was a product that did what you want it to do for a long period >>>>>> of time, it would not be difficult to find.
Instead products tell you what features they have and it is up to you to >>>>>> figure out if that suits your needs or not. Most do not state how long >>>>>> the features will actually last....
If you want your cedar project to be the most maintenance free and >>>>>> continue to look good for years to come, treat is like a piece of fine >>>>>> furniture.
And remember even fine wood furniture will fade or darken in your home >>>>>> when exposed to direct sunlight through the window glass. Cherry
darkens considerably. And long direct exposure would turn it grey too. >>>>>
I understand. But every product is different and some products will
I know that it will need to be attended to every few years, maybe even >>>>> more often. I don't believe that I ever disputed that or indicated that >>>>> I wasn't willing to do that. If any of my words made it sound that way, >>>>> I apologize. The only thing I mentioned that I didn't want to do was >>>>> sand to remove the old finish as part of the maintenance process.
Light sanding before wiping on a few new coats is fine.
have to be removed to refinish after they have fully cured. No need
to apologize!
Most of the finishes you mentioned above only penetrate and do not add a >>>> layer of protection. That layer of protection prolongs "in between"
The other item I mentioned is that I'm not looking for an overly shiny >>>>> finish like I've seen with varnishes. Sonny addressed that and I
acknowledged his suggestions.
From what I've been reading, an oil finish (Tung Oil, Tung Oil Finish, >>>>> Linseed Oil, BLO) don't require too much (if any) sanding prior to
recoating while varnishes and polyurethane products do. Please
correct me if I misunderstood what I've read.
maintenance.
I suggest when you call to not beat around the bush. Tell them what
I've also come across some Polymerized Tung Oil Finishes for
exterior use that provide UV protection. Like all other exterior
finishes, they require maintenance. I'll be making some phone
calls when the businesses open tomorrow to get some details.
you are doing, with what materials, and ask them if the product will do >>>> what you want, specifically. If they don't give you a simple yes or no >>>> answer it is probably not going to do what you want. Well the no
answer will not be good either. ;~)
And keep in mind that the wood starting to grey may be your only
indicator that the finish is not doing what you expected it to do. At
that point, a lot of sanding to restore the color or stain.
Out door wooden projects require work to maintain.
But hey! If you find tat ideal product, let me know 5 years from now
how it is working.
And thinking outside the box. IF your choice of finishes don't perform >>>> like you want and you are no longer enamored with the look, paint is
always a longer lasting alternative vs. reapplying a clear finish.
I am not trying to poo poo your goal so much as to give you realistic
expectations.
I get the impression that you are thinking that my expectations are higher >>> than they actually are. I totally expect to have to maintain the finish on a
regular basis. Always have.
I was unaware that any of their products were for out doors. I'll be
In any case...
Monocoat is sending me some samples of their Hybrid Wood Protector.
anxious to see the results.
WOW! That may be your ticket for ease of application and
reapplication.
I have been using Rubio Monocoat and really like the ease of use.
Pricey but a little goes a very long way. I did not see any mention of
using their harder for the out door product.
What final grit do *you* use before application? This cedar (specifically the 2 x 4's) seems almost ready to finish right from the lumber yard. The 1 x 4's are a different story but they'll be under the cushions so the finish is more for protection than looks. I ran them through the planer, then a quick hit with
180 in the ROS to smooth off the "tops" so the cushions won't snag and pull threads. Put a round over on all the edges too.
https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/products/hybrid-wood-protector?variant=31368893988961
I sent them a picture of the wood and expressed my desire to keep the
color as close to the original as possible.
Tammy suggested a 50/50 blend of Pure (which has no UV protection)
and Natural which will provide the UV protection. She mentioned that if
there is any red in the cedar (which I don't really see) the Natural may >>> impart some pink tones - which I won't want.
My wife says she sees red in it, I don't. We'll see what the samples reveal.
Put a bit of mineral spirits on the wood to see what color it would
naturally be with a clear finish.
I've done that. I also tried a couple of coats of Tung Oil (which I know won't
last outside) just to see what a clear oil finish looks like. It looks like I want
it to look. ;-)
Remember the comment about my wife? I have sent this to Tammy, because
Her co-worker suggested 50/50 Pure and White which he thinks will keep
the wood looking pretty much as is but as it ages towards grey he thinks >>> the white will look really cool. I'm skeptical on that "cool" comment, but all
I'll be able to test is the initial results. Of course, another coat or two, more
sooner than later, should postpone the greying.
Tammy also likes Royal so she is going to toss in a sample for free but I >>> had to promise that I wouldn't tell anyone. ;-)
you know, you are a good friend! ;~)
(Putting on my General's stripes) "Fifth!"
On 7/25/2022 5:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:<...>
On Monday, July 25, 2022 at 4:36:08 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
My wife says she sees red in it, I don't. We'll see what the samples reveal.
Do not doubt what your wife sees, even if she is wrong. Just a
frindly warning.
Sysop: | Keyop |
---|---|
Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
Users: | 417 |
Nodes: | 16 (3 / 13) |
Uptime: | 94:15:46 |
Calls: | 8,750 |
Calls today: | 13 |
Files: | 13,282 |
Messages: | 5,962,498 |