I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such
On 7/4/2022 6:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
It sounds like you're looking for something like this:
BOSCH 1/2 In. x 1/4 In. Top Bearing Dado Clean Out Bit https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-85674M-Carbide-2-Flute-Bearing/dp/B000WAAQR0/ref=sr_1_10?crid=14OPCW3J3JJNL&keywords=1%2F2%22+dado+router+bit&qid=1656982740&s=hi&sprefix=1%2F2+dado+router+bit%2Ctools%2C105&sr=1-10
Changing the subject, I recommend you spring for a router that
uses 1/2" shanks like these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004T7CK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
(This one is a 1/2" dia. 1 1/4" deep double-fluted
straight bit.)
If you cut dados frequently, you could get a stacked dado
table saw blade set. https://www.amazon.com/8-INCH-STACKED-DADO-SET/dp/B072MJ2V9J/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1OY5R61TDJA3U&keywords=stacked%2Bdado%2Btable%2Bsaw%2Bblade%2Bset&qid=1656981937&s=hi&sprefix=stacked%2Bdado%2Btable%2Bsaw%2Bblade%2Bset%2Ctools%2C185&sr=1-3&th=1
For the price of four router bits you get the ability to cut dados from
1/4" to 13/16" in 1/32" increments.
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such a
On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 17:37:36 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarinoa thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such
Instead of a trim bit, why not a bushing and up-spiral bit.
- Make a wider dado through the top half of your jig (or add another
layer. It really doesn't matter how wide the dado is just wider than
the bushing and centered.
- Slide the left and right pieces (so the bottom of the jig touches).
- Use the router bit with the bushing to cut all the way through the
jig.
- You can now use the bottom half you your jig to reference the
thickness of your board. The top of the slot is the difference
between the bushing and bit.
Just run the bushing along the top edge of the jig and your dado is
the width of your reference. You can expose as much of the bit as you
want past the bottom edge of your jig.
It's kinda like a shooting board crossed with a Kerf Master for a
router. Use the same bushing and bit and there is no further
calibration needed. The minimum dado width will be your bit diameter, obviously.
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such
On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 17:37:36 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarinoa thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
<gdguarino@gmail.com> wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such
Instead of a trim bit, why not a bushing and up-spiral bit.
- Make a wider dado through the top half of your jig (or add another
layer. It really doesn't matter how wide the dado is just wider than
the bushing and centered.
- Slide the left and right pieces (so the bottom of the jig touches).
- Use the router bit with the bushing to cut all the way through the
jig.
- You can now use the bottom half you your jig to reference the
thickness of your board. The top of the slot is the difference
between the bushing and bit.
Just run the bushing along the top edge of the jig and your dado is
the width of your reference. You can expose as much of the bit as you
want past the bottom edge of your jig.
It's kinda like a shooting board crossed with a Kerf Master for a
router. Use the same bushing and bit and there is no further
calibration needed. The minimum dado width will be your bit diameter, obviously.
On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 10:34:27 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 17:37:36 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdgu...@gmail.com> wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
Instead of a trim bit, why not a bushing and up-spiral bit.
- Make a wider dado through the top half of your jig (or add another
layer. It really doesn't matter how wide the dado is just wider than
the bushing and centered.
- Slide the left and right pieces (so the bottom of the jig touches).
- Use the router bit with the bushing to cut all the way through the
jig.
- You can now use the bottom half you your jig to reference the
thickness of your board. The top of the slot is the difference
between the bushing and bit.
Just run the bushing along the top edge of the jig and your dado is
the width of your reference. You can expose as much of the bit as you
want past the bottom edge of your jig.
It's kinda like a shooting board crossed with a Kerf Master for a
router. Use the same bushing and bit and there is no further
calibration needed. The minimum dado width will be your bit diameter,
obviously.
I had to read that a couple of times before I could imagine it. My solid wood "runners" are only about 1/4" wide. Unless I have a bushing that is really close to the size of the bit I'm going go all the way through the "runner".
Another issue I can imagine is the centering of the bushing. As it stands, the roller on the bit is obviously perfectly centered on the bit. But with a bushing I have to do some fancy alignment, or (I suppose) make sure to keep the router in the sameorientation for every cut. I'm going to mull this over a little more.
On 7/4/2022 9:34 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 17:37:36 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdguarino@gmail.com> wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
Instead of a trim bit, why not a bushing and up-spiral bit.
- Make a wider dado through the top half of your jig (or add another
layer. It really doesn't matter how wide the dado is just wider than
the bushing and centered.
- Slide the left and right pieces (so the bottom of the jig touches).
- Use the router bit with the bushing to cut all the way through the
jig.
- You can now use the bottom half you your jig to reference the
thickness of your board. The top of the slot is the difference
between the bushing and bit.
Just run the bushing along the top edge of the jig and your dado is
the width of your reference. You can expose as much of the bit as you
want past the bottom edge of your jig.
It's kinda like a shooting board crossed with a Kerf Master for a
router. Use the same bushing and bit and there is no further
calibration needed. The minimum dado width will be your bit diameter,
obviously.
This works but...... you have to use a guide bushing and it has to be >perfectly centered with the bit and or you have to remember to not clock
the router when making the cut.
A top bearing bit precisely makes the cut with no adjustments needed for
a bushing that might be off center.
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 08:46:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On 7/4/2022 9:34 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 17:37:36 -0700 (PDT), Greg Guarino
<gdguarino@gmail.com> wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
Instead of a trim bit, why not a bushing and up-spiral bit.
- Make a wider dado through the top half of your jig (or add another
layer. It really doesn't matter how wide the dado is just wider than
the bushing and centered.
- Slide the left and right pieces (so the bottom of the jig touches).
- Use the router bit with the bushing to cut all the way through the
jig.
- You can now use the bottom half you your jig to reference the
thickness of your board. The top of the slot is the difference
between the bushing and bit.
Just run the bushing along the top edge of the jig and your dado is
the width of your reference. You can expose as much of the bit as you
want past the bottom edge of your jig.
It's kinda like a shooting board crossed with a Kerf Master for a
router. Use the same bushing and bit and there is no further
calibration needed. The minimum dado width will be your bit diameter,
obviously.
This works but...... you have to use a guide bushing and it has to be >>perfectly centered with the bit and or you have to remember to not clock >>the router when making the cut.
Again, use a centering mandrel. If the bushing isn't centered the whole thing doesn't work. You can't guarantee that the bushing was put on the same way each time.
A top bearing bit precisely makes the cut with no adjustments needed for
a bushing that might be off center.
Not a problem.
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find such
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_rd_r=
He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_rd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy toget distracted.
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
to get distracted.And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make it
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_rd_
big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be too
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy toget distracted.
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_rd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
to get distracted.
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make it
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 12:06:17 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
to get distracted.
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make itHow do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 2:00:39 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:find such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 12:06:17 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> >>>
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to
rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_
be too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might
easy to get distracted.
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make it
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
I assume he means to do it while the work is still in the jig. The easiest way being with a plunge router so you can repeatedly go back and forth between "first pass" depth and second pass.
On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 12:06:17 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
to get distracted.
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make it
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
On Wednesday, July 6, 2022 at 2:00:39 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 12:06:17 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
to get distracted.
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make it
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
I assume he means to do it while the work is still in the jig. The easiest way being with a plunge router so you can repeatedly go back and forth between "first pass" depth and second pass.
On 7/6/2022 1:00 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:such a thing. I saw some much deeper bits, but I feel like I might get clumsy someday and more easily damage the "runners" of the jig. Any ideas?
On Wed, 6 Jul 2022 12:06:17 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/5/2022 10:55 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
On Tuesday, July 5, 2022 at 3:11:50 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:27:06 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 7/4/2022 7:37 PM, Greg Guarino wrote:
I made this router dado jig for an upcoming project. It's my third iteration of this jig and hopefully my last. (The first, made ten years ago, was crude but reasonably effective, the second was better but got damaged in a flood).
https://flic.kr/p/2nw3SV8
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of cut and a 1/4" shaft. That works, but I'd like to at least have the option of a deeper dado. Ideally it would be 1/2" in diameter with a 3/8" depth of cut. I can't seem to find
rd_r=d81a90b2-2515-4e9f-94c9-6e484083885c&s=hi&spLa= ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUExQ1k3MDQ0MEhaTUhBJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNDg4Njk2M0xMS0FJTkwwU05NOCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNjM4MDg1SjA3V0xXT01CQ0ozJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ==
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LX50EVT/ref=sspa_dk_detail_2?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01LX50EVT&pd_rd_w=hRCkh&content-id=amzn1.sym.3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_p=3be1c5b9-5b41-4830-a902-fa8556c19eb5&pf_rd_r=B4P7J62MN5SA6FWGRXHA&pd_rd_wg=diMqz&pd_
too big a bite all at once.He was afraid of screwing up his fixture if a longer bit slipped. I
think he wanted a bit exactly the depth of his dado.
In the past, partly because it was the bit I had, I made 1/4" deep dados. Which worked fine, but I'd like to at least have the choice to make them 3/8" deep. I'd prefer to do it in one pass. Although I I've never actually done that, so that might be
to get distracted.
And yes, I do wonder if there's a greater chance to somehow nick the "runners" when so much of a 3/4" deep cutter is "extra" and microscopically close to the runner. All it would take is a little tilt. Which, granted, shouldn't happen, but it's easy
Remember, once you have the established dado/groove you can make it
deeper by using it's sides as the bearing guide.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
If the cutter is 1/4" and the dado is 1/4" deep simply plunge 1/8"
deeper, then the bearing will ride along the existing 1/4" deep side.
On Fri, 8 Jul 2022 10:11:54 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
Ok, that's a mighty short trim bit.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
If the cutter is 1/4" and the dado is 1/4" deep simply plunge 1/8"
deeper, then the bearing will ride along the existing 1/4" deep side.
On 7/8/2022 6:38 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2022 10:11:54 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:Snip
Ok, that's a mighty short trim bit.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length >>>> is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
If the cutter is 1/4" and the dado is 1/4" deep simply plunge 1/8"
deeper, then the bearing will ride along the existing 1/4" deep side.
The same as what the OP mentioned, he said,
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of
cut and a 1/4" shaft.
Me,
I personally use a 1/2" depth of cut bit and often cut to a deeper depth.
I did an airplane display for Volga Neper Airlines and needed to bore a
5/8" hole in the center of the top of a post with a top set at 30 degrees. A DP was way too much trouble.
I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of plywood and attached that plywood to
the top of the angled top post. I plunged 1/2" deep, removed the
plywood and then proceeded to plunge deeper with out the plywood template. Once I reached about 1" deep I followed with a 5/8" brad point bit to
reach the desired depth 3~4". The starter hole guided the drill bit so that it went down perpendicular to the surface. I had to think about
that one for a while to figure that one out.
On 7/8/2022 6:38 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2022 10:11:54 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:Snip
Ok, that's a mighty short trim bit.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
If the cutter is 1/4" and the dado is 1/4" deep simply plunge 1/8"
deeper, then the bearing will ride along the existing 1/4" deep side.
The same as what the OP mentioned, he said,
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of
cut and a 1/4" shaft.
Me,
I personally use a 1/2" depth of cut bit and often cut to a deeper depth.
I did an airplane display for Volga Neper Airlines and needed to bore a
5/8" hole in the center of the top of a post with a top set at 30
degrees. A DP was way too much trouble.
I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of plywood and attached that plywood to
the top of the angled top post. I plunged 1/2" deep, removed the
plywood and then proceeded to plunge deeper with out the plywood template. >Once I reached about 1" deep I followed with a 5/8" brad point bit to
reach the desired depth 3~4". The starter hole guided the drill bit so
that it went down perpendicular to the surface. I had to think about
that one for a while to figure that one out.
On Sat, 9 Jul 2022 10:14:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/8/2022 6:38 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 8 Jul 2022 10:11:54 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:Snip
Ok, that's a mighty short trim bit.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
If the cutter is 1/4" and the dado is 1/4" deep simply plunge 1/8"
deeper, then the bearing will ride along the existing 1/4" deep side.
The same as what the OP mentioned, he said,
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth ofI did miss (forget) the 1/4" depth part of the bit. I've never seen
cut and a 1/4" shaft.
one that short. It seems like a really odd bit to me but that _is_
what he said.
Me,
I personally use a 1/2" depth of cut bit and often cut to a deeper depth.
I did an airplane display for Volga Neper Airlines and needed to bore a >5/8" hole in the center of the top of a post with a top set at 30
degrees. A DP was way too much trouble.
I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of plywood and attached that plywood to >the top of the angled top post. I plunged 1/2" deep, removed the
plywood and then proceeded to plunge deeper with out the plywood template. >Once I reached about 1" deep I followed with a 5/8" brad point bit to
reach the desired depth 3~4". The starter hole guided the drill bit so
that it went down perpendicular to the surface. I had to think about
that one for a while to figure that one out.
On Sunday, July 10, 2022 at 12:36:38 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jul 2022 10:14:18 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 7/8/2022 6:38 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I did miss (forget) the 1/4" depth part of the bit. I've never seen
On Fri, 8 Jul 2022 10:11:54 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:Snip
Ok, that's a mighty short trim bit.
How do you do that. He's going from 1/4" to 3/8". The cutter length
is certainly more than 1/4". The bearing will still be out of the
piece. Obviously a bottom bearing isn't going to work.
If the cutter is 1/4" and the dado is 1/4" deep simply plunge 1/8"
deeper, then the bearing will ride along the existing 1/4" deep side.
The same as what the OP mentioned, he said,
I have a flush-trim bit that is 1/2" in diameter with a 1/4" depth of
cut and a 1/4" shaft.
one that short. It seems like a really odd bit to me but that _is_
what he said.
Me,
I personally use a 1/2" depth of cut bit and often cut to a deeper depth. >> >
I did an airplane display for Volga Neper Airlines and needed to bore a
5/8" hole in the center of the top of a post with a top set at 30
degrees. A DP was way too much trouble.
I drilled a 5/8" hole in a piece of plywood and attached that plywood to
the top of the angled top post. I plunged 1/2" deep, removed the
plywood and then proceeded to plunge deeper with out the plywood template. >> >Once I reached about 1" deep I followed with a 5/8" brad point bit to
reach the desired depth 3~4". The starter hole guided the drill bit so
that it went down perpendicular to the surface. I had to think about
that one for a while to figure that one out.
Yep, it's 1/4" all right. Here's an old photo of the bit in my very first dado jig:
https://flic.kr/p/dEwuHu
I made my original post because I was (am) having trouble finding a bit that's a little deeper, but not a lot deeper.
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