• Re: Part for Router Table

    From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 27 11:06:36 2022
    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a square
    piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the cut so
    there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the 70's I
    have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 27 12:28:59 2022
    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a square >piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the cut so
    there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the 70's I
    have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Mon Jun 27 15:33:54 2022
    On 6/27/2022 11:28 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a square
    piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the cut so
    there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the 70's I
    have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.


    I never quite understood the miter slot myself.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Leon on Mon Jun 27 22:04:12 2022
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 6/27/2022 11:28 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a square >>> piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the cut so
    there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the 70's I
    have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.


    I never quite understood the miter slot myself.

    To use a sled, much like on a shaper table.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Mon Jun 27 15:50:32 2022
    On Monday, June 27, 2022 at 12:06:45 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?

    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the cut so
    there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the 70's I
    have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I found this gem out on the ole interwebs...

    "I use mine on a daily basis. The t-bar works perfectly as a shoe horn and in the summer time,
    if you slide the t-bar under the door to the shop, the miter fence prevents the wind from slamming
    the door shut. Kinda like a door stop, but with the convenience of holding your door open at
    precise angles. :laughing: (where do I come up with this stuff? :wink:"

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From knuttle@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Mon Jun 27 19:47:43 2022
    On 6/27/2022 12:28 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a square
    piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the cut so
    there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the 70's I
    have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.
    I made two Miter gages for my router table. Both to be able to
    accurately cut end grain cuts. One was for an interlocking corner bit.

    I both were made similarly. Since the slot of the Sears table is
    shallow. I glued and screwed two pieces of 1 X 2 in a "T" shape, and
    attached the runner bar to the bottom of the stem of the "T".

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Puckdropper@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Thu Jun 30 06:00:48 2022
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the
    cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the
    70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Puckdropper on Thu Jun 30 09:48:36 2022
    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the
    cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the
    70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    Puckdropper


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    Dado, a grove across the grain, otherwise it is a groove.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Leon on Thu Jun 30 14:55:38 2022
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    I believe the 'rebate' spelling is a UK thing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Thu Jun 30 15:15:30 2022
    scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) writes:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    I believe the 'rebate' spelling is a UK thing.


    http://www.woodworkinghistory.com/glossary_rabbet.htm

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jun 30 12:55:29 2022
    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the >>>cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the >>>70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Thu Jun 30 12:58:27 2022
    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 09:48:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the >>>> cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the
    70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again,
    it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    Puckdropper


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    Region, as in UK/US? I've never hear "rebate" in the US. Maybe some old-schoolers.

    Dado, a grove across the grain, otherwise it is a groove.

    What is it in plywood? MDF?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From knuttle@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Thu Jun 30 13:23:34 2022
    On 6/30/2022 10:55 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    I believe the 'rebate' spelling is a UK thing.

    Rebate is the most vital thing in wood working, as it lowers the cost of expensive wood and tools

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Puckdropper@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Fri Jul 1 07:40:55 2022
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9k86ibtf0ko36ik2jf@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs
    the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the
    other shelf boards.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best
    thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?

    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that
    wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jul 1 11:40:04 2022
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9k86ibtf0ko36ik2jf@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I >>>have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the >other shelf boards.

    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool >manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best
    thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?

    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're
    selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?

    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that >wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.

    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to k...@notreal.com on Fri Jul 1 12:18:28 2022
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9...@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2a...@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I >>>have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how >>>to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to >push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the >other shelf boards.
    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool >manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best >thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?
    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?
    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that >wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.
    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    Here's a possible reason...

    https://i.imgur.com/SlHZbNO.jpg

    I *thought* about putting one in the router table top I added to my table saw. Mostly
    because just about all of the vendors include one. Kreg, Rockler, JessEm, MLCS, etc.

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Fri Jul 1 15:04:53 2022
    On 6/30/2022 9:55 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    I believe the 'rebate' spelling is a UK thing.




    Remember Swingman? He hunted and ate rabbit when he was younger. And
    he married a girl that he met in a sheep herders hut in Austrailia, way
    back when. She was from England and they both lived for a short
    period in England... Whew!

    I wander if he liked to go rebate hunting. ;~)

    Don't get me started on how the English like to smoke a fag.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Fri Jul 1 15:06:24 2022
    On 6/30/2022 11:58 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 09:48:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs the >>>>> cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker since the >>>>> 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then again, >>>> it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    Puckdropper


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    Region, as in UK/US? I've never hear "rebate" in the US. Maybe some old-schoolers.

    Dado, a grove across the grain, otherwise it is a groove.

    What is it in plywood? MDF?



    Plywood? The same rule applies. MDF, it is a groove.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Puckdropper on Fri Jul 1 15:13:21 2022
    On 7/1/2022 2:40 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9k86ibtf0ko36ik2jf@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs
    the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the other shelf boards.

    If the board is bigger than the router table the miter gauge may not
    reach the miter slot. Still much simpler to take a square piece of
    3/4" plywood to set against the fence and push the work through.



    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best
    thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?

    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jul 1 15:31:37 2022
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9...@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2a...@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model >>>>>>>> #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>>> square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>>> the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table. >>>>>>
    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router >>>>>> table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I >>>>> have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how >>>>> to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the >>> other shelf boards.
    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool
    manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best
    thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?
    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're
    selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?
    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that
    wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.
    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    Here's a possible reason...

    https://i.imgur.com/SlHZbNO.jpg

    I *thought* about putting one in the router table top I added to my table saw. Mostly
    because just about all of the vendors include one. Kreg, Rockler, JessEm, MLCS, etc.

    You know how manufacturers will add a feature that 90% of woodworkers
    will never use.... A blade guard on a TS comes to mind. If they did
    not include the slot on a router table they would lose sales. I have
    never used a TS blade guard but would not buy one with out the guard,
    strictly from a resale point of view.





    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Fri Jul 1 15:26:12 2022
    On 7/1/2022 10:40 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9k86ibtf0ko36ik2jf@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>> the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I >>>> have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how >>>> to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the
    other shelf boards.

    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Well, what do you call a regular miter gauge that is set to cut at 90
    degrees?

    Woodpeckers sells a single angle miter gauge.

    I looked up the definition and the answers are all over the place. Some definitions indicate a miter cut results in 2 pieces of wood coming
    together at a 90 degree angle. So that could be 90 degrees, a butt
    joint, or 45 degrees. I wonder what they call a miter gauge set to
    cut pieces to form an octagon.





    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool
    manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best
    thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?

    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?

    Bingo!


    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that
    wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.

    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From John S@21:1/5 to Leon on Fri Jul 1 17:23:21 2022
    On 7/1/2022 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9...@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2a...@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model >>>>>>>>> #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>>>> square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>>>> the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table. >>>>>>>
    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router >>>>>>> table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but
    now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself >>>>>> how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter >>>>> gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to >>>> push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe >>>> left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold
    the
    other shelf boards.
    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool
    manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best >>>> thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?
    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're
    selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?
    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that >>>> wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.
    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    Here's a possible reason...

    https://i.imgur.com/SlHZbNO.jpg

    I *thought* about putting one in the router table top I added to my
    table saw. Mostly
    because just about all of the vendors include one. Kreg, Rockler,
    JessEm, MLCS, etc.

    You know how manufacturers will add a feature that 90% of woodworkers
    will never use....   A blade guard on a TS comes to mind.   If they did not include the slot on a router table they would lose sales.   I have never used a TS blade guard but would not buy one with out the guard, strictly from a resale point of view.





    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it
    wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few
    years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    There are jigs designed to run in the miter channel. The Incra box
    joint jig is one example.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to John S on Fri Jul 1 15:43:25 2022
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 5:23:26 PM UTC-4, John S wrote:
    On 7/1/2022 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9...@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com> >>>>> wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2a...@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model >>>>>>>>> #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>>>> square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>>>> the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker >>>>>>>> since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table. >>>>>>>
    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router >>>>>>> table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then >>>>>>> again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but >>>>>> now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself >>>>>> how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter >>>>> gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to >>>> push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe >>>> left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold >>>> the
    other shelf boards.
    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool >>>> manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best >>>> thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?
    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're >>> selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?
    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that >>>> wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually >>>> expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.
    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    Here's a possible reason...

    https://i.imgur.com/SlHZbNO.jpg

    I *thought* about putting one in the router table top I added to my
    table saw. Mostly
    because just about all of the vendors include one. Kreg, Rockler,
    JessEm, MLCS, etc.

    You know how manufacturers will add a feature that 90% of woodworkers
    will never use.... A blade guard on a TS comes to mind. If they did
    not include the slot on a router table they would lose sales. I have never used a TS blade guard but would not buy one with out the guard, strictly from a resale point of view.





    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it
    wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few
    years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    There are jigs designed to run in the miter channel. The Incra box
    joint jig is one example.

    Which came first - the chicken or the jig?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Fri Jul 1 23:54:32 2022
    On Fri, 1 Jul 2022 15:04:53 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 6/30/2022 9:55 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 6/30/2022 1:00 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    krw@notreal.com wrote in

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?


    Real rabbits have eyes/I's. Wood working rabbets have E's

    A Rebate is a rabbet and I think this is a regional thang.

    I believe the 'rebate' spelling is a UK thing.




    Remember Swingman? He hunted and ate rabbit when he was younger. And
    he married a girl that he met in a sheep herders hut in Austrailia, way
    back when. She was from England and they both lived for a short
    period in England... Whew!

    I wander if he liked to go rebate hunting. ;~)

    Don't get me started on how the English like to smoke a fag.

    Upon checking in at a hotel in England, a friend was asked if she
    wanted to be knocked up in the morning.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Sat Jul 2 00:04:05 2022
    On Fri, 1 Jul 2022 15:26:12 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/1/2022 10:40 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9k86ibtf0ko36ik2jf@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2as705jhgani4m68767@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model >>>>>>>> #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>>> square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>>> the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table. >>>>>>
    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router >>>>>> table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I >>>>> have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how >>>>> to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the >>> other shelf boards.

    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Well, what do you call a regular miter gauge that is set to cut at 90 >degrees?

    Woodpeckers sells a single angle miter gauge.

    I looked up the definition and the answers are all over the place. Some >definitions indicate a miter cut results in 2 pieces of wood coming
    together at a 90 degree angle. So that could be 90 degrees, a butt
    joint, or 45 degrees. I wonder what they call a miter gauge set to
    cut pieces to form an octagon.

    An "Exact 22.5"?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sat Jul 2 00:00:00 2022
    On Fri, 1 Jul 2022 12:18:28 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9...@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2a...@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model
    #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a
    square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs
    the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker
    since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table.

    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router
    table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then
    again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind myself how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter
    gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe
    left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to hold the
    other shelf boards.
    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool
    manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best
    thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?
    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're
    selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?
    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge that
    wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually
    expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.
    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    Here's a possible reason...

    https://i.imgur.com/SlHZbNO.jpg

    <https://jessem.com/products/clear-cut-stock-guides>

    I *thought* about putting one in the router table top I added to my table saw. Mostly
    because just about all of the vendors include one. Kreg, Rockler, JessEm, MLCS, etc.

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.

    That was my thought. It's not a big deal to add one. Like I said, I've
    just always seen them and hadn't considered how one would actually be
    used.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Leon on Sat Jul 2 13:39:22 2022
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Sat Jul 2 08:48:15 2022
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sat Jul 2 20:27:26 2022
    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jul 2 18:42:03 2022
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>
    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp holding your stock firmly against the fence"

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From knuttle@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Sat Jul 2 18:55:01 2022
    On 7/2/2022 6:42 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>
    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp huolding your stock firmly against the fence"
    Dumb question: Is a sled not a more sophisticated version of a miter gauge?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net on Sat Jul 2 20:40:04 2022
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 18:55:01 -0400, knuttle
    <keith_nuttle@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

    On 7/2/2022 6:42 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>
    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp huolding your stock firmly against the fence"
    Dumb question: Is a sled not a more sophisticated version of a miter gauge?

    A crosscut sled and coping sled are different, IMO. One is a table
    saw tool that uses the slot as a reference. It has a miter gauge to
    select the angle and usually doesn't hold the workpiece fast. It's
    used to crosscut (side-grain). The miter gauge isn't used with the
    fence to avoid kickback if the workpiece gets trapped between the
    blade and fence.

    The coping sled is more or less a workpiece carrier to keep the world
    from ending when the blade hits the end-grain. It keeps it from
    exploding your fingers and supports the backside of a, perhaps
    complicated, cut to limit tearout. Its angle setting is more of a
    secondary function. It's used to help cut end-grain rather than
    side-grain. The coping sled's reference is the fence not the other
    end of the workpiece (or none).

    Can both be used to help cut angles in wood? Sure but both a saw and a
    router cut wood. They aren't the same thing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Sat Jul 2 19:38:41 2022
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sat Jul 2 22:36:10 2022
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k

    Either method works right? But you use what you have.
    For a coping for a cabinet door frame a miter guage work for thats
    what I have.

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 3 07:44:18 2022
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k
    Either method works right? But you use what you have.
    For a coping for a cabinet door frame a miter guage work for thats
    what I have.


    That wasn't the point of Scott's comment or my response. Scott implied
    that you need a miter gauge to cope an end rail end because a coping sled
    held against the fence won't work. I simply pointed out that that was not
    true.

    I didn't say anything about not using a miter gauge. The point is that you don't *need* one for that operation.

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response: "But you use what you have."

    Back when my kids were racing Soap Box Derby cars I made some money
    by making parts using a Craftsman router in a Craftsman router table. I was able to sell the parts for way less than All American SBD organization was selling them for.

    I used Craftsman router in a Craftsman router table because, as you said,
    "you use what you have".

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Jul 3 11:37:20 2022
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response: >"But you use what you have."


    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 3 12:13:54 2022
    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response: >"But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the
    router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making
    those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sun Jul 3 14:57:09 2022
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the
    router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table >I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making
    those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason
    I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to
    the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 3 18:41:40 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a >>> >> tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the
    router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table >>I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason
    I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to
    the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of
    space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed
    table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good
    idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am
    worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation
    impeding the other's).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 3 19:53:43 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a >>>>> >> tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the >>>>> price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that >>>>> is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table >>>>I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did >>>>> what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason
    I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to >>>the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of
    space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed
    table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good
    idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round
    tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with
    rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it
    hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    Sold both the rails and fence and cast iron wing on Ebay many many
    moons ago.

    I wouldn't give up my cast wings but that's just me. I have the 50"
    Unisaw (36-L31X) with a Biesemeyer fence. It would be easy to drop a
    router in the side table.

    There are also cast wings with router plate/lift holes but they're
    (way) on the expensive side. I considered it but I'd have to buy a
    new lift too. Mine is apparently an odd size. I thought JessEM made
    them a standard size but it's an inch too wide (deep, or whatever).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Sun Jul 3 18:18:59 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a >>>> >> tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the >>>> price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that >>>> is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the
    router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table >>>I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason
    I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to
    the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of
    space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed
    table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good
    idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am
    worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and
    replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round
    tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with
    rails for the fence.

    Sold both the rails and fence and cast iron wing on Ebay many many
    moons ago.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Sun Jul 3 20:36:38 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 19:53:43 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a >>>>>> >> tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the >>>>>> price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that >>>>>> is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table
    I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did >>>>>> what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason >>>>I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to >>>>the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of
    space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed
    table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good
    idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >>replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round
    tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with
    rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it
    hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence


    Sold both the rails and fence and cast iron wing on Ebay many many
    moons ago.

    I wouldn't give up my cast wings but that's just me. I have the 50"
    Unisaw (36-L31X) with a Biesemeyer fence. It would be easy to drop a
    router in the side table.

    There are also cast wings with router plate/lift holes but they're
    (way) on the expensive side. I considered it but I'd have to buy a
    new lift too. Mine is apparently an odd size. I thought JessEM made
    them a standard size but it's an inch too wide (deep, or whatever).

    There are cast iron router extensions, but mine is the high pressure
    laminate type but they do not have it anymore.

    https://www.rockler.com/power-tools/routers/router-tables/router-table-tops

    That is Rockler's selection

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Jul 3 23:03:31 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 20:36:38 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 19:53:43 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>> >> On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the >>>>>>> price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that >>>>>>> is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table
    I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>>>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did >>>>>>> what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason >>>>>I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to >>>>>the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of >>>>space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed
    table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good >>>>idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>>>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>>>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >>>replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round
    tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with >>>rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it
    hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence

    So it's the same as the stock table, though the legs at the far end
    are on the same frame with casters under the frame and saw. Level?

    Sold both the rails and fence and cast iron wing on Ebay many many
    moons ago.

    I wouldn't give up my cast wings but that's just me. I have the 50"
    Unisaw (36-L31X) with a Biesemeyer fence. It would be easy to drop a >>router in the side table.

    There are also cast wings with router plate/lift holes but they're
    (way) on the expensive side. I considered it but I'd have to buy a
    new lift too. Mine is apparently an odd size. I thought JessEM made
    them a standard size but it's an inch too wide (deep, or whatever).

    There are cast iron router extensions, but mine is the high pressure
    laminate type but they do not have it anymore.

    https://www.rockler.com/power-tools/routers/router-tables/router-table-tops

    That's more or less the top I have on a separate cabinet (JessEm,
    though).

    That is Rockler's selection

    That's the cast wing/table I was looking at. I didn't want to give up
    my wing and it wouldn't fit my lift anyway.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Sun Jul 3 22:36:32 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 23:03:31 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 20:36:38 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 19:53:43 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote:
    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>> >> On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the >>>>>>>> price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that >>>>>>>> is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table
    I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>>>>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did >>>>>>>> what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason >>>>>>I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to >>>>>>the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of >>>>>space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed >>>>>table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good >>>>>idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>>>>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>>>>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >>>>replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round
    tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with >>>>rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it
    hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence

    So it's the same as the stock table, though the legs at the far end
    are on the same frame with casters under the frame and saw. Level?


    There are no legs at all, it is part of the saw the end that butts up
    to the saw is flat like the back of a cabinet. Flush with the top
    surface of the saw, it extended twelve inches beyond the old wing
    width. There are four lag bolts attaching it to the fifty two inch
    fence rails, no need of legs.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 4 00:04:24 2022
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 22:36:32 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 23:03:31 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 20:36:38 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 19:53:43 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>>>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>>> On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>>> >> On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>>>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table
    I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>>>>>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did >>>>>>>>> what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason >>>>>>>I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to >>>>>>>the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of >>>>>>space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed >>>>>>table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good >>>>>>idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>>>>>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>>>>>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >>>>>replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round >>>>>tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with >>>>>rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it >>>>hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence

    So it's the same as the stock table, though the legs at the far end
    are on the same frame with casters under the frame and saw. Level?


    There are no legs at all, it is part of the saw the end that butts up
    to the saw is flat like the back of a cabinet. Flush with the top
    surface of the saw, it extended twelve inches beyond the old wing
    width. There are four lag bolts attaching it to the fifty two inch
    fence rails, no need of legs.

    Sounds like it has to sag. Cast is stiff and bolts can be torqued
    down. Laminate, not so much.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to k...@notreal.com on Sun Jul 3 23:47:10 2022
    On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 12:04:29 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 22:36:32 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 23:03:31 -0400, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 20:36:38 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com> >>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 19:53:43 -0400, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com> >>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <mark...@hotmail.com> >>>>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>>>>>><teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>>> On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>>> >> On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement. >>>>>>>>>
    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>>>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table
    I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making
    those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason
    I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to
    the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of >>>>>>space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed >>>>>>table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good >>>>>>idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>>>>>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>>>>>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >>>>>replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round >>>>>tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with >>>>>rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it >>>>hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence

    So it's the same as the stock table, though the legs at the far end
    are on the same frame with casters under the frame and saw. Level?


    There are no legs at all, it is part of the saw the end that butts up
    to the saw is flat like the back of a cabinet. Flush with the top
    surface of the saw, it extended twelve inches beyond the old wing
    width. There are four lag bolts attaching it to the fifty two inch
    fence rails, no need of legs.
    Sounds like it has to sag. Cast is stiff and bolts can be torqued
    down. Laminate, not so much.

    My table saw router table is homemade of melamine with an
    aluminum insert. It’s pocket screwed to a 2 1/2” deep poplar
    frame. 1 side of the frame is bolted to the edge of the cast saw
    top, 2 sides are bolted to the rails. No sag at all.

    I mounted the power box/switch from a previous bench top
    router table to the right front corner of the frame. Something
    like this switch but mounted horizontally to front rail of the frame.
    It doesn’t stick out beyond the frame rail and it’s easy to reach.

    <https://www.homedepot.com/p/Kreg-Multi-Purpose-Router-Table-Switch-PRS3100/205435728>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Mon Jul 4 09:08:28 2022
    On Mon, 04 Jul 2022 00:04:24 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 22:36:32 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
    wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 23:03:31 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 20:36:38 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 19:53:43 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:18:59 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 18:41:40 -0400, krw@notreal.com wrote:

    On Sun, 03 Jul 2022 14:57:09 -0500, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>>>>wrote:

    On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 12:13:54 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03 >>>>>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Sunday, July 3, 2022 at 12:37:30 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>>>> On Sun, 3 Jul 2022 07:44:18 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 11:36:19 PM UTC-4, Markem618 wrote: >>>>>>>>>> >> On Sat, 2 Jul 2022 19:38:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    Will concede any Craftsman router table is worth more as scrap than a
    tool.

    That's a bit drastic and also contradicts the very premise of your response:
    "But you use what you have."

    That is just my opinion of Craftsman's router tables, depending on the
    price of aluminum scrap, it may also be a true statement.

    If what "you" have is a Craftman and it does the job good enough, that
    is a good thing.

    Key point here: *had*, not *have* ;-)

    I'm 3 upgrades removed from the Craftsman and very happy with the >>>>>>>>>router table that I built into my table saw. Better than any benchtop table
    I've used and always set-up, ready to use. Sure would have made making >>>>>>>>>those Derby parts easier.


    Kind of like the first jointer I bought at Lowes, cost maybe $100 did
    what I wanted but it is still a cheap bench top tool.

    I understood you no longer have the Craftsman router table, the reason >>>>>>>>I put you in quotes. My router tale setup is a Rockler top attached to >>>>>>>>the Unisaw, like you I am happy with that setup.

    Do you have the extended table on the Unisaw? If you're short of >>>>>>>space, that's a good place to put the router. If not, an outfeed >>>>>>>table works well. A table top of a table doesn't seem to be a good >>>>>>>idea to me.

    I may put a router in my Unisaw table but I'm not space limited so am >>>>>>>worried about one interfering with the other (junk from one operation >>>>>>>impeding the other's).

    I toook off one of the cast iron wing on the right side of the saw and >>>>>>replace it with the router setup. At the same time I replace round >>>>>>tube fence with Vega style fence, attached the table to the saw with >>>>>>rails for the fence.

    So your table is free-standing but is stabilized by the rails? Is it >>>>>hard to keep it flat/level with the saw top?

    It is suspend with bolt through the rails for the fence

    So it's the same as the stock table, though the legs at the far end
    are on the same frame with casters under the frame and saw. Level?


    There are no legs at all, it is part of the saw the end that butts up
    to the saw is flat like the back of a cabinet. Flush with the top
    surface of the saw, it extended twelve inches beyond the old wing
    width. There are four lag bolts attaching it to the fifty two inch
    fence rails, no need of legs.

    Sounds like it has to sag. Cast is stiff and bolts can be torqued
    down. Laminate, not so much.

    Nope it has a frame underneath, top is about an inch thick.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Mon Jul 4 13:03:26 2022
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled,
    just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with
    out a miter bar.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to John S on Mon Jul 4 12:52:17 2022
    On 7/1/2022 4:23 PM, John S wrote:
    On 7/1/2022 4:31 PM, Leon wrote:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 01 Jul 2022 07:40:55 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:a6lrbhp632tt6rsh9...@4ax.com:

    On Thu, 30 Jun 2022 06:00:48 GMT, Puckdropper <puckd...@yahoo.com> >>>>>> wrote:

    k...@notreal.com wrote in
    news:83mjbhptrvmoq0v2a...@4ax.com:

    On Mon, 27 Jun 2022 11:06:36 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>> wrote:

    On 6/26/2022 5:45 PM, Ed wrote:
    I'm looking for a miter gage for a old Sears Router Table model >>>>>>>>>> #171.254790. Anyone know where I can get one?



    No.

    BUT if you need to make cuts 90 degrees to the fence simply use a >>>>>>>>> square piece of plywood to push your work through. It also backs >>>>>>>>> the cut so there is little to no tear out. Being a woodworker >>>>>>>>> since the 70's I have never used a miter gauge on a router table. >>>>>>>>
    I'm trying to think of an application for a miter gauge on a router >>>>>>>> table. I suppose a sled could be considered a miter gauge. Then >>>>>>>> again, it is from Sears.

    Dados and Rebates, Rabbits, Rabbets?

    Fence, too much blood, fence

    I found a use for the miter gauge storage on my router table but >>>>>>> now I
    have to go out to the shop to get the dictionary and remind
    myself how
    to spell that word!

    I really can't imagine a reason dadoes or rabbets would need a miter >>>>>> gauge or, really, how it could even be used.


    What it would be good for is locking the gauge at 0/90 then using
    it to
    push through a board that's larger than the table. So let's say you
    want a bookcase and buy two 1x12x4s from the hardware store. Uncle Joe >>>>> left his Router Table to you and you have no other tools. You could
    lock the miter gauge and use it to make your assorted groves to
    hold the
    other shelf boards.
    Are you going to use the router table as a saw, too? Is a 90-degree
    miter gauge a "miter" gauge? I guess Woodpeckers thinks it is.

    Are there numerous better ways to do this? Yes. Does that stop a tool >>>>> manufacturer from adding the feature and trying to sell it as the best >>>>> thing since someone discovered eating cures hunger?
    ...or a manufacturer/retailer doesn't know anything about what they're >>>> selling. Or perhaps the customer doesn't either and will choose the
    one with more features?
    Of course such a manufacturer probably will give you a miter gauge
    that
    wiggles and jiggles no matter what you do to it. They don't actually >>>>> expect you to *use* the tool, just *buy it*.
    The issue is really how you'd use it and why people add it to their
    table. Having not really thought about it until now, I would have too
    on my next table. It's not a big deal but why?

    Here's a possible reason...

    https://i.imgur.com/SlHZbNO.jpg

    I *thought* about putting one in the router table top I added to my
    table saw. Mostly
    because just about all of the vendors include one. Kreg, Rockler,
    JessEm, MLCS, etc.

    You know how manufacturers will add a feature that 90% of woodworkers
    will never use....   A blade guard on a TS comes to mind.   If they
    did not include the slot on a router table they would lose sales.   I
    have never used a TS blade guard but would not buy one with out the
    guard, strictly from a resale point of view.





    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it
    wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few
    years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    There are jigs designed to run in the miter channel.  The Incra box
    joint jig is one example.

    And that jig, the iBox works on a TS also. Can you name another jig
    that only works in a router table slot?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Mon Jul 4 13:05:39 2022
    On 7/2/2022 3:27 PM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.


    Yes it does. Why would you think that it would not? The rail/work
    simply sits on the router table top and is pushed through with the plywood/sled. A fresh piece of ply even asks as a zero clearance back
    up for no tear out.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to knuttle on Mon Jul 4 13:09:40 2022
    On 7/2/2022 5:55 PM, knuttle wrote:
    On 7/2/2022 6:42 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com
    wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, >>>>>>> it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a
    few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>

    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp huolding your stock firmly against the fence"
    Dumb question:  Is a sled not a more sophisticated version of a miter
    gauge?




    Some sleds are. My sled is simply a square piece of square plywood to
    push the work perpendicular to the fence. My plywood push sled is
    normally about 10' square.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Mon Jul 4 13:07:47 2022
    On 7/2/2022 5:42 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>
    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp holding your stock firmly against the fence"



    Sorta, to cope then ends of the rails you don't need to have the work on
    top of the sled. Put the work on the router table surface and push it
    through with the sled.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 4 13:14:22 2022
    On 7/2/2022 9:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k


    This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.

    All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece
    and push it through.

    Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of
    the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jul 4 13:57:28 2022
    On 7/4/2022 1:32 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 2:14:31 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/2/2022 9:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote: >>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k
    This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.

    All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece
    and push it through.

    Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of
    the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.

    True, you don't *need* to use the top of the sled, but I think safety (or call it comfort)
    is the biggest pro of doing it that way. Secured both front & rear, held down tight, firm
    2 hand feed, etc.

    When I've used mine for that operation, I liked that I could just drop the next piece
    between the backer blocks, clamp it down and push it through.

    There's nothing wrong with doing it "free-hand" i.e. with a piece of plywood. Using the
    the top of the sled just makes me feel more comfortable, which equates to me feeling
    safer.

    Comfort is a perceived notion for these sleds. I see the "cope sleds"
    as being more of a PIA to set up and also to insert the next piece and
    remove and so on. I could be wrong.


    But simply using a piece of plywood, the thickness of the work being
    coped, is very much like using a miter gauge to push a rail over a
    stacked dado to cut tenons on a TS.

    No clamps necessary.

    My method of coping with plywood is to use a relative large 10 "square
    piece of plywood.

    I place the rail to be coped against the front of the plywood and hold
    it there, in a clamping motion, with my left hand and fingers, well away
    from the cutter. My right palm is against the back edge of the plywood pushing forward. Works great.


    But if you feel safer using a clamping coping sled by all means use that.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Mon Jul 4 11:32:34 2022
    On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 2:14:31 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/2/2022 9:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k
    This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.

    All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece
    and push it through.

    Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of
    the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.

    True, you don't *need* to use the top of the sled, but I think safety (or call it comfort)
    is the biggest pro of doing it that way. Secured both front & rear, held down tight, firm
    2 hand feed, etc.

    When I've used mine for that operation, I liked that I could just drop the next piece
    between the backer blocks, clamp it down and push it through.

    There's nothing wrong with doing it "free-hand" i.e. with a piece of plywood. Using the
    the top of the sled just makes me feel more comfortable, which equates to me feeling
    safer.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Mon Jul 4 16:21:06 2022
    On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 13:14:22 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/2/2022 9:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k


    This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.

    All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece
    and push it through.

    How do you cope at an angle? Use the table saw and miter gauge to
    "unsquare" your plywood?

    Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of
    the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Mon Jul 4 16:18:16 2022
    On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 11:32:34 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Monday, July 4, 2022 at 2:14:31 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 7/2/2022 9:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k
    This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.

    All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece
    and push it through.

    Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of
    the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.

    True, you don't *need* to use the top of the sled, but I think safety (or call it comfort)
    is the biggest pro of doing it that way. Secured both front & rear, held down tight, firm
    2 hand feed, etc.

    Two hands, both ABOVE the bit.

    When I've used mine for that operation, I liked that I could just drop the next piece
    between the backer blocks, clamp it down and push it through.

    There's nothing wrong with doing it "free-hand" i.e. with a piece of plywood. Using the
    the top of the sled just makes me feel more comfortable, which equates to me feeling
    safer.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Mon Jul 4 16:16:36 2022
    On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 13:07:47 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/2/2022 5:42 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>
    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp holding your stock firmly against the fence"



    Sorta, to cope then ends of the rails you don't need to have the work on
    top of the sled. Put the work on the router table surface and push it >through with the sled.

    The point is that the piece has to be held firmly against the fence so
    the fence is the key, not the slot. That's harder to do if the sled
    rode in the miter slot. Can't have both. You'd have a similar
    situation as using both a fence and miter gauge on a saw.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Leon on Tue Jul 5 14:01:13 2022
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled,
    just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with
    out a miter bar.

    If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping,
    as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.

    I use this: https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-43-188-Sliding-Shaper-Jig/dp/B00004TQG7

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Tue Jul 5 09:09:25 2022
    On 7/4/2022 3:16 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 13:07:47 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/2/2022 5:42 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Sat, 02 Jul 2022 20:27:26 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
    wrote:

    DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote: >>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.

    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Why not? That's how sleds work.

    <https://www.woodpeck.com/woodpeckers-coping-sled-3029.html>
    (can't copy from the Woodpecker's online catalog)

    <https://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/k-premium_coping_sled.html>
    "Offset clear fence guide"

    <https://www.ptreeusa.com/rtr_jigs_coping_sled.html>
    "hold the stock firmly up against a router table fence."

    <https://www.rockler.com/rockler-rail-coping-sled>
    "clamp holding your stock firmly against the fence"



    Sorta, to cope then ends of the rails you don't need to have the work on
    top of the sled. Put the work on the router table surface and push it
    through with the sled.

    The point is that the piece has to be held firmly against the fence so
    the fence is the key, not the slot. That's harder to do if the sled
    rode in the miter slot. Can't have both. You'd have a similar
    situation as using both a fence and miter gauge on a saw.

    Holding every thing in place is not an issue.

    FWIW I very very often use the miter gauge and rip fence together for
    making cabinet door rail stub tenons and rabbets for drawers corners.


    I did this last month when making rabbets for corner joints for 3
    drawers and 8 stub tenons for a sewing table for a customer. I built a
    hutch for NailShooter's significant other last fall. 6 drawers with
    rabbets for corner joints. 32 stub tenons for drawer fronts and cabinet
    doors.

    Then the kitchen rehab that I did for a customer in the spring of last
    year. 27 doors that had decorative rails and stiles. That was 108
    passes through the router table being pushed with a piece of plywood.
    and then on the TS about 24 drawers, 96 rabbets cut with the miter gauge
    and the drawer side ends referenced against the sacrificial fence.

    I have been doing this type cutting on the TS and the router table for
    20+ years on a regular basis. I have never felt the need for anything
    better, or more complicated.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Tue Jul 5 09:19:49 2022
    On 7/4/2022 3:21 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Mon, 4 Jul 2022 13:14:22 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/2/2022 9:38 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 4:27:32 PM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
    On Saturday, July 2, 2022 at 9:39:27 AM UTC-4, Scott Lurndal wrote: >>>>>> Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>>> mount the feather board.
    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.

    My sled rides along the fence.
    That won't work for coping rail ends.

    Of course it will.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MtHZefxbw0k


    This is just another sales pitch for selling a sled.

    All you need is a square piece of plywood to sit behind the work piece
    and push it through.

    How do you cope at an angle? Use the table saw and miter gauge to
    "unsquare" your plywood?

    Essentially, yes. Fortunately I have never had to cut anything but a 90
    degree angle for a rail on the router table but if I had to do this I
    would simply cut the front support edge of the plywood to be at an angle
    to compliment the angle on the end of the rail.



    But then again, I have never have come across the need to cut anything
    but 90 degrees in these situations.





    Hint, the work does not have to sit on the sled. It sits in front of
    the sled/square plywood and is pushed through by the plywood.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Tue Jul 5 13:37:41 2022
    On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:22:40 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/5/2022 9:01 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled,
    just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with
    out a miter bar.

    If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping,
    as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.

    I use this: https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-43-188-Sliding-Shaper-Jig/dp/B00004TQG7


    So I do not use a shaper and I will assume that it offers a different
    set of issues over a regular router table.

    But with a square scrap of plywood, not a dedicated sled, to push the
    work through you want the cutters to cut into the scrap to back up the
    cut and reduce tear out.

    You do with a sled, too. Part of the sled is sacrificial and
    replaceable. It's a lot more expensive than a scrap of plywood,
    though.

    I like your method better than a sled except for the hold down,
    actually. Not as pretty but cheaper/better. A push block and bit
    guard solves these problem all way around (push, angle, tear-out,
    hold-down, and fingers into sharp spinning metal). As a bonus, it gets
    rid of scrap plywood laying around the shop.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Scott Lurndal on Tue Jul 5 12:22:40 2022
    On 7/5/2022 9:01 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:

    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled,
    just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with
    out a miter bar.

    If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping,
    as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.

    I use this: https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-43-188-Sliding-Shaper-Jig/dp/B00004TQG7


    So I do not use a shaper and I will assume that it offers a different
    set of issues over a regular router table.

    But with a square scrap of plywood, not a dedicated sled, to push the
    work through you want the cutters to cut into the scrap to back up the
    cut and reduce tear out.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Tue Jul 5 15:09:30 2022
    On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 13:49:08 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/5/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:22:40 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/5/2022 9:01 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>>> mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled, >>>>> just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with >>>>> out a miter bar.

    If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping,
    as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.

    I use this: https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-43-188-Sliding-Shaper-Jig/dp/B00004TQG7


    So I do not use a shaper and I will assume that it offers a different
    set of issues over a regular router table.

    But with a square scrap of plywood, not a dedicated sled, to push the
    work through you want the cutters to cut into the scrap to back up the
    cut and reduce tear out.

    You do with a sled, too. Part of the sled is sacrificial and
    replaceable. It's a lot more expensive than a scrap of plywood,
    though.

    I like your method better than a sled except for the hold down,
    actually. Not as pretty but cheaper/better. A push block and bit
    guard solves these problem all way around (push, angle, tear-out,
    hold-down, and fingers into sharp spinning metal). As a bonus, it gets
    rid of scrap plywood laying around the shop.


    I reccomend what ever makes you feel the safest. In my case my router
    table fence has a guard that fits over the bit, just in case.

    Belt and suspenders.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Tue Jul 5 13:49:08 2022
    On 7/5/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Tue, 5 Jul 2022 12:22:40 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 7/5/2022 9:01 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to >>>>>> mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled,
    just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with >>>> out a miter bar.

    If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping,
    as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.

    I use this: https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-43-188-Sliding-Shaper-Jig/dp/B00004TQG7


    So I do not use a shaper and I will assume that it offers a different
    set of issues over a regular router table.

    But with a square scrap of plywood, not a dedicated sled, to push the
    work through you want the cutters to cut into the scrap to back up the
    cut and reduce tear out.

    You do with a sled, too. Part of the sled is sacrificial and
    replaceable. It's a lot more expensive than a scrap of plywood,
    though.

    I like your method better than a sled except for the hold down,
    actually. Not as pretty but cheaper/better. A push block and bit
    guard solves these problem all way around (push, angle, tear-out,
    hold-down, and fingers into sharp spinning metal). As a bonus, it gets
    rid of scrap plywood laying around the shop.


    I reccomend what ever makes you feel the safest. In my case my router
    table fence has a guard that fits over the bit, just in case.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Scott Lurndal@21:1/5 to Leon on Tue Jul 5 19:44:36 2022
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/5/2022 9:01 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/2/2022 8:39 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> writes:
    On 7/1/2022 2:18 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Friday, July 1, 2022 at 11:40:10 AM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>
    I decide to wait, telling myself that if I ever really needed it, it wouldn't take but a few
    minutes to rout the slot and drop some T-track in. It's been a few years and I haven't
    needed it yet, but the option is still there.


    IMHO the only use for the router table slot is to provide a spot to
    mount the feather board.

    Have you never use a sled on the router table (or shaper)? I use
    one on the shaper when coping rail ends, amongst other things.


    Absolutely!!! But you do not need a miter slot to guide the sled,
    just use the fence as the guide for a sled/square piece of plywood with
    out a miter bar.

    If I do that with my stacked cope&stick shaper cutters, it will cut into the sled when coping,
    as the bottom cutter is wider than the stock.

    I use this: https://www.amazon.com/DELTA-43-188-Sliding-Shaper-Jig/dp/B00004TQG7


    So I do not use a shaper and I will assume that it offers a different
    set of issues over a regular router table.

    But with a square scrap of plywood, not a dedicated sled, to push the
    work through you want the cutters to cut into the scrap to back up the
    cut and reduce tear out.

    Or a slightly wider rail, ripped to final size after shaping/routing. Or
    use scrap rail stock to back the cut.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)