• #### I'm Building A Gate...Should Have Used Trigonometry

From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jun 10 18:42:26 2022
This gate frame is not a square. It's 47" x 42", so the cuts for the
diagonal are not 45°. I laid the rectangle on top of the diagonal,
traced the angles and determined that the cuts needed to be 50°
and 40°.

https://i.imgur.com/wc0ICKR.jpg

After I was done, I decided to dust off the old trig formulas. I don't think I've used them in 3 or 4 decades. My calculations show that the angles
should have been 49° and 41°. Damn! 1° off. Major failure. I guess I'll
have to start over. ;-)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
• From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Sat Jun 11 12:35:38 2022
On 6/10/2022 8:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This gate frame is not a square. It's 47" x 42", so the cuts for the
diagonal are not 45°. I laid the rectangle on top of the diagonal,
traced the angles and determined that the cuts needed to be 50°
and 40°.

https://i.imgur.com/wc0ICKR.jpg

After I was done, I decided to dust off the old trig formulas. I don't think I've used them in 3 or 4 decades. My calculations show that the angles
should have been 49° and 41°. Damn! 1° off. Major failure. I guess I'll have to start over. ;-)

You want the diagonal pointing down on the HINGE side. As wood shrinks
and screw/nails loosen the pressure will continue to keep the diagonal
union tight.

And late now but I have built countless gates. about 25 years ago I
switched to to this kit and the gates never sag.

D21-021_008_FENCING-NA-NA-NA-SMART-2996800-NA-NA-NA-NBR-NA-NA-NEW-D21New_Active-71700000093642218-58700007799447907-92700070858519800&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pCVBhCFARIsAGMxhAc8suZC3WrlB84-QG7LgUhg9iW4lUme0ujE9RPAMDsH_8UORzLTpzsaAqQvEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

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• From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Mon Jun 13 09:54:53 2022
On Saturday, June 11, 2022 at 1:35:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/10/2022 8:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This gate frame is not a square. It's 47" x 42", so the cuts for the diagonal are not 45°. I laid the rectangle on top of the diagonal,
traced the angles and determined that the cuts needed to be 50°
and 40°.

https://i.imgur.com/wc0ICKR.jpg

After I was done, I decided to dust off the old trig formulas. I don't think
I've used them in 3 or 4 decades. My calculations show that the angles should have been 49° and 41°. Damn! 1° off. Major failure. I guess I'll have to start over. ;-)

You want the diagonal pointing down on the HINGE side. As wood shrinks
and screw/nails loosen the pressure will continue to keep the diagonal
union tight.

And late now but I have built countless gates. about 25 years ago I
switched to to this kit and the gates never sag.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-EasyGate-No-Sag-Gate-Bracket-Kit-2614/100020199

So one gate build turned into two. Gate #1 is the one that was planned from the
beginning. I needed to replace the sagging gate in a 35 YO fence. Gate #2 just sort of happened because I had a bunch of left over wood.

Gate #1

Key notes -
- In order to match the existing fence yet still make the gate as strong as possible,
I wasted a lot of wood. Using 2 x 4's for the frame and standard width pickets (5 1/2")
would have made the gate too bulky. Instead, I used 5/4 x 6 decking for the frame,
ripped down to 4", adding a bullnose on the ripped edge to match the factory edge. I
also ripped down the pickets to 3 1/4" to get the spacing I needed and match the existing
board-on-board style fence.

- The old gate was sagging for more than one reason. Not only was the original frame
built incorrectly, but the hinge post is no longer plumb or straight. It leans in towards
the latch side slightly and the top 1/3 also curves towards the latch side. Let's just say
that some tweaks were required to get the gate to work properly and appear level.

Here's the gate and one of the required tweaks. You can tell how out of plumb/curved
the hinge post is by the way that I had to mount the bottom hinge.

https://i.imgur.com/qH1zz6f.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LftYZpJ.jpg

Gate #2:

After I finished that gate, I had a bunch of wood left over from the ripped down pickets.
Let's see, what can I do with them?

My daughter has a dog and we need a gate on the deck for when he visits. Over the
winter we just used a piece of scrap plywood over the opening but spring is here so

I grabbed a few of the scrap strips from the ripped down pickets and came up with an
idea. Just for fun, I decided to waste a lot of time and use half lap joints instead of just
attaching the pickets to an internal frame, like the other one. I also thinks it matches
the deck railings better.

This is what I ended up with. It's not mounted yet, but I'm going to use strap hinges and
mount it to the existing gate mounting strip that is still on the house from when we had
dogs many years ago.

https://i.imgur.com/JUrJ4Ih.jpg

Will it sag over time? I don't know. I glued all 20 joints with Titebond III and most of them
are pretty tight. The gate will be open >99.99% of the time and flat against the house, so
I plan to give it a base to rest on when open. When closed, it will be supported by a latch.
Worst case, I'll add a turnbuckle cable at some point.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
• From Leon@21:1/5 to All on Mon Jun 13 18:47:01 2022
On 6/13/2022 11:54 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Saturday, June 11, 2022 at 1:35:49 PM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
On 6/10/2022 8:42 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
This gate frame is not a square. It's 47" x 42", so the cuts for the
diagonal are not 45°. I laid the rectangle on top of the diagonal,
traced the angles and determined that the cuts needed to be 50°
and 40°.

https://i.imgur.com/wc0ICKR.jpg

After I was done, I decided to dust off the old trig formulas. I don't think
I've used them in 3 or 4 decades. My calculations show that the angles
should have been 49° and 41°. Damn! 1° off. Major failure. I guess I'll >>> have to start over. ;-)

You want the diagonal pointing down on the HINGE side. As wood shrinks
and screw/nails loosen the pressure will continue to keep the diagonal
union tight.

And late now but I have built countless gates. about 25 years ago I
switched to to this kit and the gates never sag.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Homax-EasyGate-No-Sag-Gate-Bracket-Kit-2614/100020199

So one gate build turned into two. Gate #1 is the one that was planned from the
beginning. I needed to replace the sagging gate in a 35 YO fence. Gate #2 just
sort of happened because I had a bunch of left over wood.

Gate #1

Key notes -
- In order to match the existing fence yet still make the gate as strong as possible,
I wasted a lot of wood. Using 2 x 4's for the frame and standard width pickets (5 1/2")
would have made the gate too bulky. Instead, I used 5/4 x 6 decking for the frame,
ripped down to 4", adding a bullnose on the ripped edge to match the factory edge. I
also ripped down the pickets to 3 1/4" to get the spacing I needed and match the existing
board-on-board style fence.

- The old gate was sagging for more than one reason. Not only was the original frame
built incorrectly, but the hinge post is no longer plumb or straight. It leans in towards
the latch side slightly and the top 1/3 also curves towards the latch side. Let's just say
that some tweaks were required to get the gate to work properly and appear level.

Here's the gate and one of the required tweaks. You can tell how out of plumb/curved
the hinge post is by the way that I had to mount the bottom hinge.

https://i.imgur.com/qH1zz6f.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/LftYZpJ.jpg

Wow that fence is 35 years old??????

Anyway,,,,,, ELEGANT solution to the leaning post. Good Job!

Gate #2:

After I finished that gate, I had a bunch of wood left over from the ripped down pickets.
Let's see, what can I do with them?

My daughter has a dog and we need a gate on the deck for when he visits. Over the
winter we just used a piece of scrap plywood over the opening but spring is here so

I grabbed a few of the scrap strips from the ripped down pickets and came up with an
idea. Just for fun, I decided to waste a lot of time and use half lap joints instead of just
attaching the pickets to an internal frame, like the other one. I also thinks it matches
the deck railings better.

This is what I ended up with. It's not mounted yet, but I'm going to use strap hinges and
mount it to the existing gate mounting strip that is still on the house from when we had
dogs many years ago.

https://i.imgur.com/JUrJ4Ih.jpg

Will it sag over time? I don't know. I glued all 20 joints with Titebond III and most of them
are pretty tight. The gate will be open >99.99% of the time and flat against the house, so
I plan to give it a base to rest on when open. When closed, it will be supported by a latch.
Worst case, I'll add a turnbuckle cable at some point.

It looks light enough to probably not sag. BUT if it does you can add
a turn buckle to both sides. Adding to only one side will likely warp
the gate.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)