• OT: Miter box

    From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Tue Sep 21 07:24:46 2021
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so
    I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption. https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Tue Sep 21 20:39:05 2021
    On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 07:24:46 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were
    only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so
    I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took >> > me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you." >> > -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you
    check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I wouldn't use a miter saw on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    ...and on the ground.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Thu Sep 23 00:15:20 2021
    On 9/21/2021 8:39 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 07:24:46 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took >>>> me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you." >>>> -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I wouldn't use a miter saw on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    ....and on the ground.

    Trust me, the miter saw stays on the ground.. haha

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to All on Thu Sep 23 00:16:46 2021
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were
    only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so
    I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took >>> me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already >>> had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you." >>> -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you
    check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Bill@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Thu Sep 23 01:30:18 2021
    On 9/23/2021 12:16 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry.
    It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I
    already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but
    then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with
    you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    It is not a "box", but mine is more the style of this one (in it's flexability):

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/194038075041?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1GxiM0JKjS2m-zc_WyYAEIg11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=194038075041&targetid=4580702890871448&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640321&
    mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702890871448&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0fefd936e9781affaa23b87af97c92be

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Thu Sep 23 09:00:33 2021
    On Thursday, September 23, 2021 at 12:16:44 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom >> why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution >> was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a >> darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >> really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >> considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.
    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    Common sense certainly comes into play when using any power tool, but
    many people, with a lot of common sense, have been injured on the job site.

    Mistakes happen, distractions happen, wandering minds happen.


    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    If it keeps getting gaumed/gummed up, I have to question what you are
    cutting.

    BTW...when a safety device is involved, I lean towards "repair" vs. "removal".

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to Bill on Thu Sep 23 15:04:11 2021
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 01:30:18 -0400, Bill <nonegiven@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 12:16 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>>> On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the >>>>> baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry.
    It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I
    already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but >>>>> then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might >>>>> find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with
    you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one >>>> of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom >>>> why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution >>>> was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a >>>> darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic >>>> safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >>>> really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough >>>> to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >>>> considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny
    spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;) >>
    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    It is not a "box", but mine is more the style of this one (in it's >flexability):

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/194038075041?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1GxiM0JKjS2m-zc_WyYAEIg11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=194038075041&targetid=4580702890871448&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640321&
    mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702890871448&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0fefd936e9781affaa23b87af97c92be
    The "cordless radial arm saw"

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Clare Snyder@21:1/5 to michael.trew@att.net on Thu Sep 23 15:02:33 2021
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:15:20 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 8:39 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 07:24:46 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>>> On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the >>>>> baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might >>>>> find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you." >>>>> -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one >>>> of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom >>>> why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution >>>> was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a >>>> darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic >>>> safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >>>> really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough >>>> to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >>>> considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I wouldn't use a miter saw on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    ....and on the ground.

    Trust me, the miter saw stays on the ground.. haha
    That's why they make the blade tip on a table saw!!! 14 inch high baseboadrs?? NO PROBLEM!!!! As long as they aren't over about 2 inches
    thick - - -
    Cut to the "outside" length plus a predetermined amount, install the
    fence so with the end on the fence the blade cuts EXACTLY where you
    want it and start cutting. As long as you measure and cut to the
    proper length the miters will be exactly the right length and angle
    EVERY TIME.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Markem618@21:1/5 to michael.trew@att.net on Thu Sep 23 15:11:03 2021
    On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 00:51:35 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were
    only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so
    I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took >> me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already >> had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic >safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr

    Search around see if you can find a Delta Buck Saw, hard to find but
    better than SCMS.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Thu Sep 23 16:33:25 2021
    On 9/22/2021 11:16 PM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry.
    It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I
    already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but
    then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with
    you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you are
    capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how smart
    you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws. Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that brings
    us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.





    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Thu Sep 23 21:02:43 2021
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 15:04:11 -0400, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
    wrote:

    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 01:30:18 -0400, Bill <nonegiven@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 12:16 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>>>> On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the >>>>>> baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw* >>>>>> would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. >>>>>> It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I >>>>>> already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779 >>>>>> It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but >>>>>> then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might >>>>>> find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with >>>>>> you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one >>>>> of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom >>>>> why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution >>>>> was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>>>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a >>>>> darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic >>>>> safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >>>>> really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't >>>>> think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough >>>>> to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >>>>> considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop >>>>> trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;) >>>
    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    It is not a "box", but mine is more the style of this one (in it's >>flexability):
    https://www.ebay.com/itm/194038075041?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1GxiM0JKjS2m-zc_WyYAEIg11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=194038075041&targetid=4580702890871448&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=
    418640321&mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702890871448&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0fefd936e9781affaa23b87af97c92be
    The "cordless radial arm saw"

    Cordless forarm saw.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to michael.trew@att.net on Thu Sep 23 20:59:28 2021
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took >>>> me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you." >>>> -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Bill on Thu Sep 23 21:01:23 2021
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 01:30:18 -0400, Bill <nonegiven@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 12:16 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>>> On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the >>>>> baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>>>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so >>>>> I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry.
    It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I
    already
    had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but >>>>> then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might >>>>> find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with
    you."
    -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one >>>> of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom >>>> why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution >>>> was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a >>>> darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic >>>> safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >>>> really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough >>>> to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >>>> considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny
    spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;) >>
    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    It is not a "box", but mine is more the style of this one (in it's >flexability):

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/194038075041?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1GxiM0JKjS2m-zc_WyYAEIg11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=194038075041&targetid=4580702890871448&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=418640321&
    mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702890871448&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0fefd936e9781affaa23b87af97c92be

    I have one of those, too. My outlaws bought it for me about 50 years
    ago. It's a nice tool but it isn't a Kapex.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Leon on Fri Sep 24 18:36:05 2021
    On 9/23/2021 5:33 PM, Leon wrote:
    On 9/22/2021 11:16 PM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the
    air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the
    shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws
    body parts ;)


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you are
    capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how smart
    you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws. Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that brings
    us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

    Trust me, I'm not advocating to pull off all stops/safeties; I'm not one
    of those people (unless it comes to the doggone safety stop handle on
    power mowers).

    My table saw is downright ancient, I'm pretty sure it's a pre-war model,
    no safeties.

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Bill on Fri Sep 24 18:16:56 2021
    On 9/23/2021 1:30 AM, Bill wrote:
    On 9/23/2021 12:16 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the
    air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the
    shiny spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws
    body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    It is not a "box", but mine is more the style of this one (in it's flexability):

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/194038075041?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1GxiM0JKjS2m-zc_WyYAEIg11&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=194038075041&targetid=4580702890871448&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=
    418640321&mkgroupid=1233652283797640&rlsatarget=pla-4580702890871448&abcId=9300602&merchantid=51291&msclkid=0fefd936e9781affaa23b87af97c92be

    That's pretty cool!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to All on Fri Sep 24 18:18:19 2021
    On 9/23/2021 12:00 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Thursday, September 23, 2021 at 12:16:44 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Tuesday, September 21, 2021 at 12:51:38 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>>> I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom >>>> why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution >>>> was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you >>>> check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a >>>> darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic >>>> safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those >>>> really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough >>>> to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw, >>>> considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr


    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.
    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny
    spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    Common sense certainly comes into play when using any power tool, but
    many people, with a lot of common sense, have been injured on the job site.

    Mistakes happen, distractions happen, wandering minds happen.

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    If it keeps getting gaumed/gummed up, I have to question what you are cutting.

    BTW...when a safety device is involved, I lean towards "repair" vs. "removal".

    The guard was halfway broken when I bought the used saw, and never
    worked correctly. I'm pretty sure my neighbor who sold it to me bought
    it as part of a lot in an auction. No clue what the PO's did to it.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Fri Sep 24 18:37:40 2021
    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny
    spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;) >>
    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to All on Fri Sep 24 18:49:30 2021
    On 9/23/2021 4:11 PM, Markem618 wrote:
    On Tue, 21 Sep 2021 00:51:35 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/20/2021 8:37 PM, Bryan Simmons wrote:
    Why are miter boxes so short? I have to cut 45 degree angles for the
    baseboards at my son's house. They are 6.5" tall, but even if they were >>> only 4 inches, most miter boxes would be too short. My miter *saw*
    would cut 4" ones, but I'm going to have to hand cut them, and to do so
    I had to make my own extra tall miter box. By now the glue is dry. It took
    me a couple of hours to figure it out and build it from wood than I already >>> had at home. Here's my crazy contraption.
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/36178182@N08/albums/72157719878210779
    It's not done. There's still some hand sawing left to finish it, but then I have
    to cut the baseboards by hand. Those of you who do woodworking might
    find this amusing.

    --Bryan

    "If you don’t like tamales, then there must be something wrong with you." >>> -- https://iamnm.com/traditional-new-mexico-red-chile-tamales/

    I don't do a lot of woodworking, but I have to do some for work in one
    of my homes. This is a good topic for rec.woodworking

    I've had the same complaint about too-small miter boxes, I can't fathom
    why they can't even hold a normal sized piece of baseboard. My solution
    was to buy an electric miter saw from my neighbor, used for $30.. if you
    check the prices in stores on 12 inch blade miter saws, I think I got a
    darn good deal. I did, of course, have to buy a new blade. The plastic
    safety shield was broken, so I ripped it the rest of the way off (those
    really get in the way).

    Pic linked of my saw. Please don't mind the filthy basement. I don't
    think the laser guide works, but you can set the angle accurate enough
    to do nice 45's or whatever. I would not get a smaller blade miter saw,
    considering that you'd be in the same boat of not being able to chop
    trim; this time because the blade won't reach.

    https://postimg.cc/PLRK88Jr

    Search around see if you can find a Delta Buck Saw, hard to find but
    better than SCMS.

    I think I just found one on Facebook Marketplace for $40.. thanks, might
    go pick that up!

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to k...@notreal.com on Fri Sep 24 19:55:47 2021
    On Friday, September 24, 2021 at 10:45:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 18:37:40 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michae...@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michae...@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting >>> gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?
    Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

    Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago. <https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/miter/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html>

    I prefer mine...

    https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/miter-saws-cm10gd-48431-p/

    I kept my old 10" Delta non-slider for cutting metal, PT wood, branches, and anything else I don't want to put under the Bosch.

    Both guards are intact, although the Delta's is basically opaque from all the metal it's cut. Sparks and plastic don't play well together.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to michael.trew@att.net on Fri Sep 24 22:45:04 2021
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 18:37:40 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;) >>>
    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting
    gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?

    Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

    Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago. <https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/miter/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html>

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Sat Sep 25 08:01:27 2021
    On 9/24/2021 9:45 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 18:37:40 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air, >>>>> a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >>>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;) >>>>
    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting >>>> gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?

    Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

    Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago. <https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/miter/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html>


    I thought you had the articulating Bosch. Some one on here indicated
    that dust collection on the Bosch was hideous.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Sat Sep 25 20:41:17 2021
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 19:55:47 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Friday, September 24, 2021 at 10:45:08 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 18:37:40 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michae...@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michae...@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >> >>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting >> >>> gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?
    Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

    Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago.
    <https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/miter/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html>

    I prefer mine...

    https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/boschtools-ocs/miter-saws-cm10gd-48431-p/

    Hardly a $100 tool. I have a Bosch 5312 (no longer sold) but it was a
    bit more than $100 too.

    <https://mitersawhub.com/bosch-5312-12-inch-dual-bevel-slide-compound-miter-saw-review/>

    I kept my old 10" Delta non-slider for cutting metal, PT wood, branches, and >anything else I don't want to put under the Bosch.

    Sounds, well, loud.

    Both guards are intact, although the Delta's is basically opaque from all the >metal it's cut. Sparks and plastic don't play well together.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sat Sep 25 20:42:38 2021
    On Sat, 25 Sep 2021 08:01:27 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 9/24/2021 9:45 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 18:37:40 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michael.trew@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >>>>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting >>>>> gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not >>>> that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry. >>>> It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?

    Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

    Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago.
    <https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/miter/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html>


    I thought you had the articulating Bosch. Some one on here indicated
    that dust collection on the Bosch was hideous.

    Nope, a Bosch Glider (above). I'm dumping it soon because it takes
    too much (front to back) space.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Leon on Sat Sep 25 20:18:30 2021
    On Saturday, September 25, 2021 at 9:01:34 AM UTC-4, Leon wrote:
    On 9/24/2021 9:45 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Fri, 24 Sep 2021 18:37:40 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michae...@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/23/2021 8:59 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 23 Sep 2021 00:16:46 -0400, Michael Trew
    <michae...@att.net> wrote:

    On 9/21/2021 10:24 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    I guess if you don't mind standing on rickety scaffolding 30' in the air,
    a blade guard would certainly seem to be an inconvenience. ;-)

    I'll keep mine intact.

    Well, the old common sense tells me not to put my fingers near the shiny >>>> spinning sharp hunk of wood-gnawing metal.. as it also gnaws body parts ;)

    If it weren't broken, I would have kept it intact, but it kept getting >>>> gaumed up and wouldn't retract.

    I would have spent the $100 on a HF SMCS. I've had one for years, not
    that gets much use these days. It's purpose is now outside carpentry.
    It works and I don't care if it gets wet.


    What is that, harbor freight saw?

    Yes, HF == Harbor Freight

    Something like this but I bought mine fifteenish years ago. <https://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/power-saws/miter/10-in-sliding-compound-miter-saw-61971.html>

    I thought you had the articulating Bosch. Some one on here indicated
    that dust collection on the Bosch was hideous.

    That may have been me. I don't recall that I said that it was "hideous" but
    I do recall posting a link to the mod that I employed to improve it.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRlZGApo6vA

    Don refers to the stock dust collection as "not overly effective". Is
    "overly effective" actually a good thing? Somehow it sounds like
    something you *wouldn't* want a thing to be. Like using a shotgun
    to kill a spider. Effective, sure, but maybe just a bit too much. ;-)

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Puckdropper@21:1/5 to Leon on Sun Sep 26 07:44:09 2021
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:fuOdnVxPI9U4b9H8nZ2dnUU7-RvNnZ2d@giganews.com:


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near
    shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you
    are capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how
    smart you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws. Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that
    brings us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered
    woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also,
    however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a
    guard.

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my
    saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in half
    or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm taking 1/2"
    off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the guard.

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From J. Clarke@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 26 12:21:01 2021
    On Sun, 26 Sep 2021 07:44:09 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in >news:fuOdnVxPI9U4b9H8nZ2dnUU7-RvNnZ2d@giganews.com:


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near
    shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you
    are capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how
    smart you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws.
    Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that
    brings us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered
    woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also, >however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a
    guard.

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my
    saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in half
    or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm taking 1/2"
    off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the guard.

    That's an issue with the design of guards. They shouldn't just flop
    down on the workpiece--that should be an option but there should be a
    way to _easily_ lock them at a height that allows clearance.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Sun Sep 26 20:17:37 2021
    On Sun, 26 Sep 2021 07:44:09 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in >news:fuOdnVxPI9U4b9H8nZ2dnUU7-RvNnZ2d@giganews.com:


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near
    shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you
    are capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how
    smart you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws.
    Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that
    brings us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered
    woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also, >however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a
    guard.

    How many of those (either group) do dados?

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my
    saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in half
    or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm taking 1/2"
    off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the guard.

    I don't either, mainly because it's a PITA to mount. The riving knife
    isn't any better (poorly implemented afterthought).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Puckdropper on Sun Sep 26 19:26:46 2021
    On 9/26/2021 2:44 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:fuOdnVxPI9U4b9H8nZ2dnUU7-RvNnZ2d@giganews.com:


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near
    shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you
    are capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how
    smart you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws.
    Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that
    brings us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered
    woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also, however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a
    guard.

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my
    saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in half
    or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm taking 1/2"
    off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the guard.

    Puckdropper



    I do not use a gurard on my TS. Does 9.5 Fingers count? But then
    again, SawStop.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Mon Sep 27 20:50:19 2021
    On Sun, 26 Sep 2021 19:26:46 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:

    On 9/26/2021 2:44 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in
    news:fuOdnVxPI9U4b9H8nZ2dnUU7-RvNnZ2d@giganews.com:


    Well, common sense is not always with us when we are working near
    shiny spinning sharp things. Unless you are GOD or a Super Hero you
    are capable of making a mistake regardless of how much training or how
    smart you think you are.

    I will say the number reason that most woodworkers have accidents on
    their table saws is because they did not have a guard on their saws.
    Unfortunately 99.999999999999999% of table saw guards hindered rather
    than helped.
    Some cuts are impossible to make with a guard mounted. And that
    brings us to the solution to mistakes, SawStop.

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered
    woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also,
    however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a
    guard.

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my
    saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in half
    or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm taking 1/2"
    off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the guard.

    Puckdropper



    I do not use a gurard on my TS. Does 9.5 Fingers count? But then
    again, SawStop.

    But your wiener has a chunk out of it.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Puckdropper@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Tue Sep 28 08:29:34 2021
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:2832lglhci7l5crl68t8jle6kc32uogoo4@4ax.com:

    On Sun, 26 Sep 2021 07:44:09 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered >>woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also, >>however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a
    guard.

    How many of those (either group) do dados?

    My guess is it's probably the same in both groups. It's just the
    guard-users do it for every cut they can, the guard-don't-users just
    don't.

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my
    saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in
    half or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm
    taking 1/2" off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the
    guard.

    I don't either, mainly because it's a PITA to mount. The riving knife
    isn't any better (poorly implemented afterthought).

    Every time I go to Ikea, I'm impressed by something. Some item I'm
    looking at is well thought out, cheap, and very functional.

    I wish they would do something like that for table saw guards. They've
    already got the cheap part, it's just the other two that are missing.

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Puckdropper@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Tue Sep 28 08:22:24 2021
    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:5kp4lg109u8ssicti9v69mdgo2jojb150n@4ax.com:

    On Sun, 26 Sep 2021 19:26:46 -0500, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
    wrote:



    I do not use a gurard on my TS. Does 9.5 Fingers count? But then
    again, SawStop.

    But your wiener has a chunk out of it.


    That's how you know it's done. It's split on the end and stuff is coming
    out.

    Puckdropper

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to Puckdropper on Tue Sep 28 13:41:56 2021
    On 9/28/2021 4:29 AM, Puckdropper wrote:
    Every time I go to Ikea, I'm impressed by something. Some item I'm
    looking at is well thought out, cheap, and very functional.

    I wish they would do something like that for table saw guards. They've already got the cheap part, it's just the other two that are missing.

    Puckdropper

    I feel the same way, until I have to figure out how to assemble that
    IKEA item, then I change my mind..

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to All on Tue Sep 28 14:43:44 2021
    On Tue, 28 Sep 2021 08:29:34 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    krw@notreal.com wrote in
    news:2832lglhci7l5crl68t8jle6kc32uogoo4@4ax.com:

    On Sun, 26 Sep 2021 07:44:09 GMT, Puckdropper <puckdropper@yahoo.com>
    wrote:

    I saw a saying here a long time ago. There are many 10-fingered >>>woodworkers who use their table saw without a guard. There are also, >>>however, NO 9-fingered woodworkers who use their table saw without a >>>guard.

    How many of those (either group) do dados?

    My guess is it's probably the same in both groups. It's just the
    guard-users do it for every cut they can, the guard-don't-users just
    don't.

    I have to admit, I'm one of those 10-fingered guys... The guard for my >>>saw was so big and clumsy I could only use it if cutting plywood in
    half or something giant like that. For the average cut where I'm
    taking 1/2" off the remaining 3/8" offcut would get caught under the >>>guard.

    I don't either, mainly because it's a PITA to mount. The riving knife
    isn't any better (poorly implemented afterthought).

    Every time I go to Ikea, I'm impressed by something. Some item I'm
    looking at is well thought out, cheap, and very functional.

    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.

    I wish they would do something like that for table saw guards. They've >already got the cheap part, it's just the other two that are missing.

    It doesn't seem that it would be all that hard, starting from scratch.
    I guess they make them just to satisfy their lawyers.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to krw@notreal.com on Thu Sep 30 00:20:29 2021
    On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.

    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb.
    It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Thu Sep 30 07:46:24 2021
    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb.
    It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO
    house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company,
    are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler
    strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to All on Thu Sep 30 11:04:44 2021
    On 9/30/2021 10:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb.
    It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company, are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).

    True, it should always be plumb, but standard pre-built cabinets are far
    more forgiving to shim and install in an out of square house, rather
    than trying to build complex MDF cabinets that interlock and keep them
    plumb.

    The IKEA cabinets would have gone together far easier if the walls were
    plumb to start with.. IIRC (it's been almost a decade), we had to build
    some of them "on the wall", as opposed to just zipping in and shimming pre-built cabinets -- and none of the holes were coming close to lining up.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Thu Sep 30 12:20:59 2021
    On Thu, 30 Sep 2021 07:46:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb.
    It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO >house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company, >are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler >strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a >dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).

    I'd give a 100yo house a better chance at being plumb and square.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to k...@notreal.com on Thu Sep 30 10:45:41 2021
    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:21:07 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 30 Sep 2021 07:46:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb. >> It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO >house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company, >are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler >strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a
    dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).
    I'd give a 100yo house a better chance at being plumb and square.

    How many 100 YO houses have you worked in?

    Maybe when it was first built it was "built better". (I assume that is what you are implying) However, 100 years later and a lot of that care has been overtaken
    by nature.

    I've worked in many older homes with full sized hardwood timbers and amazing craftsmanship. Still, the ravages of nature and the laws of gravity have had a lot
    of time to do their thing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Michael Trew on Thu Sep 30 13:36:48 2021
    On 9/30/2021 10:04 AM, Michael Trew wrote:
    On 9/30/2021 10:46 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>> On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb. >>> It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO
    house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any
    company,
    are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler
    strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either.
    That's a
    dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself
    (correctly).

    True, it should always be plumb, but standard pre-built cabinets are far
    more forgiving to shim and install in an out of square house, rather
    than trying to build complex MDF cabinets that interlock and keep them
    plumb.

    I do not in particular care for Ikea and mostly just because of the
    store lay out. I don't go to a store for the entertainment value. I
    want to get in and get out.

    With that behind me, I have never ever installed kitchen cabinets where everything worked like the drawings. Prefab cabinets should be built
    prior to install. And then units are normally attached to each other
    prior to attaching to the walls. You do not want to try to attach each individual cabinet to the final spot and then add another cabinet and so on.




    The IKEA cabinets would have gone together far easier if the walls were
    plumb to start with.. IIRC (it's been almost a decade), we had to build
    some of them "on the wall", as opposed to just zipping in and shimming pre-built cabinets -- and none of the holes were coming close to lining up.

    And again, the wall being out of plumb should have had no bearing on
    ease of assembly.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to teamarrows@eznet.net on Fri Oct 1 19:46:57 2021
    On Thu, 30 Sep 2021 10:45:41 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:21:07 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 30 Sep 2021 07:46:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >> >> On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but
    their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb. >> >> It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO
    house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company, >> >are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler
    strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a
    dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).
    I'd give a 100yo house a better chance at being plumb and square.

    How many 100 YO houses have you worked in?

    Maybe when it was first built it was "built better". (I assume that is what you
    are implying) However, 100 years later and a lot of that care has been overtaken
    by nature.

    Perhaps not but I've seen runout of a wall close to a foot. Tile or
    wood looks like crap. Nothing can be done either. They don't make
    triangular tile.

    I've worked in many older homes with full sized hardwood timbers and amazing >craftsmanship. Still, the ravages of nature and the laws of gravity have had a lot
    of time to do their thing.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Michael Trew@21:1/5 to All on Fri Oct 1 21:00:12 2021
    On 9/30/2021 1:45 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:21:07 PM UTC-4, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    On Thu, 30 Sep 2021 07:46:24 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
    <teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

    On Thursday, September 30, 2021 at 12:20:29 AM UTC-4, Michael Trew wrote: >>>> On 9/28/2021 2:43 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
    I'm most impressed by their packaging. Designing stuff to perfectly
    fit into a box takes genius. FOr termite barf, their stuff is OK but >>>>> their hardware is bad. Really bad. I can't imagine an Ikea kitchen
    lasting a year, much less 20.
    When I worked for a contractor, we had to assemble an IKEA kitchen..
    keep in mind, it was nearly a 100 year old house, and nothing was plumb. >>>> It was absolute hell.. he said "IKEA kitchen.. NEVER AGAIN, unless
    it's a new construction home. I absolutely loathe assembling their
    furniture.

    Wouldn't that same problem exist with *any* kitchen install in a 100 YO
    house?

    I'm pretty sure that all cabinets, custom built or stock from any company, >>> are (should be) square and plumb. Proper measurements, shims and filler
    strips are essentials.

    BTW...there is no guarantee that "new construction" is plumb either. That's a
    dangerous assumption to make, unless you built the place yourself (correctly).
    I'd give a 100yo house a better chance at being plumb and square.

    How many 100 YO houses have you worked in?

    Maybe when it was first built it was "built better". (I assume that is what you
    are implying) However, 100 years later and a lot of that care has been overtaken
    by nature.

    I've worked in many older homes with full sized hardwood timbers and amazing craftsmanship. Still, the ravages of nature and the laws of gravity have had a lot
    of time to do their thing.

    Yep, everything settles over time.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)