On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
On Wednesday, February 23, 2022 at 9:57:33 PM UTC-5, Markem618 wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveThe nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >> >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
that range.
You mean "buy". I don't have any metric wrenches that large. Some sockets, yes,
but I don't if I'll be able to get them in there. Never seen the saw.
I'll just buy a set before I go. I don't want to shop while I'm there, I want to cut. ;-)
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >>wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >>>wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the
crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
Assuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >>> wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
DerbyDad03 <teamarrows@eznet.net> writes:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >> wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Is she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nutIs she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
On 2/24/2022 8:43 AM, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Is she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
First thing I thought of. A little hard to determine if it is a
direction thing or a size thing.
Many nuts/bolts are difficult to remove with a crescent wrench even if
it fits the nut.
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)Assuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find >a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people >looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I >put my eyes on the saw.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench >> at that location.
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >> > there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >> > off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >> > to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people >looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I >put my eyes on the saw.The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench >> >> at that location.
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >> >> > there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >> >> > off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >> >> > to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people >> >looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular >saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >specifically a Pro-Tech.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular >saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >specifically a Pro-Tech.These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >> >> >> > a metric arbor nut?Assuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts >> >> >> and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts >for a treadmill.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >> >> >> > a metric arbor nut?Assuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts >> >> >> and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >> >> the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts >for a treadmill.Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
settle the issue as well.
Joe Gwinn
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 9:43:33 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveIs she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >> >wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Based on what I was told, yes. Arbor enters blade from left, she (and her >boyfriend, a concrete contractor) were pulling the wrench towards the
front of the saw. We even talked about it on the phone.
I've seen the saw. It's well used. No one knows when the blade was last >changed or how tight the nut was tightened. I'll know more tonight when
I put my own eyes on it. It could be just a leverage thing. Her boyfriend >didn't have any "large" tools with him, just her 10" crescent.
On 2/23/2022 9:54 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>> to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
LOL. I recall working with Swingman several years ago and removing the
arbor nut on his Unisaw, pre 2005. Small, very thin, compared to the
one on my Jet cabinet saw.
Then he saw the arbor nut on my SS and his eyes about popped out of his
head.
A 1.25" wrench is required and it is about triple the depth of his.
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:54:50 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >>>>wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
I have offset closed end 7/8 actually two of them, and a bandsaw blade
cutoff that is custom made by my dad. If a unicorn has two horns it is
a gazelle right.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >>> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>> >> >> > a metric arbor nut?Assuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts >>> >> >> and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >>> >> the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >>Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts >>for a treadmill.
Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
settle the issue as well.
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:43:32 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:54:50 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>>that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn >>>horns are easier to come by, too.
I have offset closed end 7/8 actually two of them, and a bandsaw blade >>cutoff that is custom made by my dad. If a unicorn has two horns it is
a gazelle right.
The outer, arbor nut, is easy. It's the arbor itself that's the
problem. Is the bandsaw blade wide enough to get to the arbor? That's
really what's needed.
I've seen some skinny wrenches on Amazon. I should buy one just in
case but haven't.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:31:51 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:43:32 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:54:50 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>>off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>>to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>>>that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn >>>>horns are easier to come by, too.
I have offset closed end 7/8 actually two of them, and a bandsaw blade >>>cutoff that is custom made by my dad. If a unicorn has two horns it is
a gazelle right.
The outer, arbor nut, is easy. It's the arbor itself that's the
problem. Is the bandsaw blade wide enough to get to the arbor? That's >>really what's needed.
I've seen some skinny wrenches on Amazon. I should buy one just in
case but haven't.
It is about a 16th thick so it slips easily between the arbor and
blade, also works on the craftsman ras.
This is not your ordinary bandsaw, it was used to cut things in half
at IH/JI Case research center. Like tractors and combines.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 21:13:22 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:31:51 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:43:32 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:54:50 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>>a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>>>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>>>off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>>>to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>>>>that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn >>>>>horns are easier to come by, too.
I have offset closed end 7/8 actually two of them, and a bandsaw blade >>>>cutoff that is custom made by my dad. If a unicorn has two horns it is >>>>a gazelle right.
The outer, arbor nut, is easy. It's the arbor itself that's the
problem. Is the bandsaw blade wide enough to get to the arbor? That's >>>really what's needed.
I've seen some skinny wrenches on Amazon. I should buy one just in
case but haven't.
It is about a 16th thick so it slips easily between the arbor and
blade, also works on the craftsman ras.
This is not your ordinary bandsaw, it was used to cut things in half
at IH/JI Case research center. Like tractors and combines.
I found one on ebay (I think) ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/265524555198?hash=item3dd27f2dbe:g:JKgAAOSwZnRdAmgz>
And a nut ><https://www.ebay.com/itm/174178506628?epid=1363908782&hash=item288dd91784:g:GV8AAOSwlJBb1Oxq>
I don't think either is original (the wrench certainly isn't).
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 15:53:17 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joeg...@comcast.net>
wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >>> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >>> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >>> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >>> >> the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >>Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
settle the issue as well.
No it won't. The battery will be dead. I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:24:15 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 9:43:33 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveIs she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Based on what I was told, yes. Arbor enters blade from left, she (and her >boyfriend, a concrete contractor) were pulling the wrench towards theWell, that's how I know how rare the open-end wrench is.
front of the saw. We even talked about it on the phone.
I've seen the saw. It's well used. No one knows when the blade was last >changed or how tight the nut was tightened. I'll know more tonight whenI can tell you that the nut can be put on there *real* tight! DAMHIK
I put my own eyes on it. It could be just a leverage thing. Her boyfriend >didn't have any "large" tools with him, just her 10" crescent.
A Crescent wrench can really bugger up that nut. It's a thin nut.
There is space around it but a wrench wider than the nut can do a real
number on it. I don't know how hard the nuts are to get.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 22:22:11 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 21:13:22 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:31:51 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:43:32 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:54:50 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>>>wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>>>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>>>a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>>>>there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>>>>off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>>>>
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>>>>to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>>>>>that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn >>>>>>horns are easier to come by, too.
I have offset closed end 7/8 actually two of them, and a bandsaw blade >>>>>cutoff that is custom made by my dad. If a unicorn has two horns it is >>>>>a gazelle right.
The outer, arbor nut, is easy. It's the arbor itself that's the >>>>problem. Is the bandsaw blade wide enough to get to the arbor? That's >>>>really what's needed.
I've seen some skinny wrenches on Amazon. I should buy one just in >>>>case but haven't.
It is about a 16th thick so it slips easily between the arbor and
blade, also works on the craftsman ras.
This is not your ordinary bandsaw, it was used to cut things in half
at IH/JI Case research center. Like tractors and combines.
I found one on ebay (I think) >><https://www.ebay.com/itm/265524555198?hash=item3dd27f2dbe:g:JKgAAOSwZnRdAmgz>
And a nut >><https://www.ebay.com/itm/174178506628?epid=1363908782&hash=item288dd91784:g:GV8AAOSwlJBb1Oxq>
I don't think either is original (the wrench certainly isn't).
That would work well, but if you know a machinist it is 7/8" and a
16th" plate harden it (soak at 500 degree f, quench in a room temp
water). Bought a replacement nut when Saw Center still existed. Never
got around to ordering the replacements for my unisaw that I wanted.
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 8:40:48 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:24:15 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 9:43:33 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote:Well, that's how I know how rare the open-end wrench is.
DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveIs she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >> >> >there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >> >> >off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Based on what I was told, yes. Arbor enters blade from left, she (and her >> >boyfriend, a concrete contractor) were pulling the wrench towards the
front of the saw. We even talked about it on the phone.
I can tell you that the nut can be put on there *real* tight! DAMHIK
I've seen the saw. It's well used. No one knows when the blade was last
changed or how tight the nut was tightened. I'll know more tonight when
I put my own eyes on it. It could be just a leverage thing. Her boyfriend >> >didn't have any "large" tools with him, just her 10" crescent.
A Crescent wrench can really bugger up that nut. It's a thin nut.
There is space around it but a wrench wider than the nut can do a real
number on it. I don't know how hard the nuts are to get.
So, for lack of a better post to respond to with the outcome, you win. ;-)
This is what I was I dealing with:
https://i.imgur.com/FGoP7eW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8LEUOtN.jpg
As you can see the nut and washer are pretty rusty, and yes, buggered
up. I discovered that my daughter (and her BF) were trying to break
it free with an 8" crescent wrench. Ain't no friggin' way they were
getting that nut off with an 8" crescent wrench.
Turns out the nut might be 23 mm, per my caliper. (22.8x depending
on where I measured it.) All I had with me was SAE. 7/8" was too small, >15/16" was a little loose, but I got it to work. It took about all I had to >break it free, but once it did, it spun off real easy.
However, looking at that saw, especially the fence, I'm not sure I even
want to use it. My daughter told me that it shot a piece of trim into
her BF's knee the last time he used it. Could have been his technique,
who knows.
It's got a new blade on it now...I just hope I don't need it for the projects I'm
working on. I may let my circular saw handle any ripping I need to do. I'm >not building furniture.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:27:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 8:40:48 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:24:15 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 9:43:33 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: >> >> DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:Well, that's how I know how rare the open-end wrench is.
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveIs she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >> >> >there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >> >> >off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Based on what I was told, yes. Arbor enters blade from left, she (and her >> >boyfriend, a concrete contractor) were pulling the wrench towards the
front of the saw. We even talked about it on the phone.
I can tell you that the nut can be put on there *real* tight! DAMHIK
I've seen the saw. It's well used. No one knows when the blade was last >> >changed or how tight the nut was tightened. I'll know more tonight when >> >I put my own eyes on it. It could be just a leverage thing. Her boyfriend >> >didn't have any "large" tools with him, just her 10" crescent.
A Crescent wrench can really bugger up that nut. It's a thin nut.
There is space around it but a wrench wider than the nut can do a real
number on it. I don't know how hard the nuts are to get.
So, for lack of a better post to respond to with the outcome, you win. ;-)
This is what I was I dealing with:
https://i.imgur.com/FGoP7eW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8LEUOtN.jpg
As you can see the nut and washer are pretty rusty, and yes, buggeredNope. It's a mess.
up. I discovered that my daughter (and her BF) were trying to break
it free with an 8" crescent wrench. Ain't no friggin' way they were
getting that nut off with an 8" crescent wrench.
Turns out the nut might be 23 mm, per my caliper. (22.8x dependingIf at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer (or breaker
on where I measured it.) All I had with me was SAE. 7/8" was too small, >15/16" was a little loose, but I got it to work. It took about all I had to >break it free, but once it did, it spun off real easy.
bar/pipe).
However, looking at that saw, especially the fence, I'm not sure I even >want to use it. My daughter told me that it shot a piece of trim intoIf it were me, I'd buy them a better (perhaps even new) saw. My son
her BF's knee the last time he used it. Could have been his technique,
who knows.
has no interest in doing anything himself (but should). I gave him
some really nice tools but I don't think he's ever plugged them in.
It's got a new blade on it now...I just hope I don't need it for the projects I'mIf you don't feel safe using it, should they be using it?
working on. I may let my circular saw handle any ripping I need to do. I'm >not building furniture.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 15:53:17 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03No it won't. The battery will be dead. I can't keep batteries in HF
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >>>> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >>>> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>> >> >> > a metric arbor nut?Assuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts >>>> >> >> and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >>>> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >>>> >> the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >>>Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts >>>for a treadmill.
Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
settle the issue as well.
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:47:11 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 15:53:17 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:No it won't. The battery will be dead. I can't keep batteries in HF >>calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >>>>> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has >>>>> the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded >>>>> by Sears.
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >>>>> >> >> On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >>>>> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation. >>>>> >> Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >>>>> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >>>>> >> the bar
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >>>>> >specifically a Pro-Tech.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >>>>Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
settle the issue as well.
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
I have a Cen-Tech 6" digital caliper bought on sale some years ago. It
does not eat batteries. But you do need to use silver oxide
batteries, not alkaline. Even if they came with alkaline.
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:57:24 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:27:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 8:40:48 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:24:15 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03Nope. It's a mess.
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 9:43:33 AM UTC-5, Scott Lurndal wrote: >> >> >> DerbyDad03 <teama...@eznet.net> writes:Well, that's how I know how rare the open-end wrench is.
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveIs she turning the wrench in the _right_ direction?
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
Based on what I was told, yes. Arbor enters blade from left, she (and her
boyfriend, a concrete contractor) were pulling the wrench towards the
front of the saw. We even talked about it on the phone.
I can tell you that the nut can be put on there *real* tight! DAMHIK
I've seen the saw. It's well used. No one knows when the blade was last >> >> >changed or how tight the nut was tightened. I'll know more tonight when >> >> >I put my own eyes on it. It could be just a leverage thing. Her boyfriend
didn't have any "large" tools with him, just her 10" crescent.
A Crescent wrench can really bugger up that nut. It's a thin nut.
There is space around it but a wrench wider than the nut can do a real
number on it. I don't know how hard the nuts are to get.
So, for lack of a better post to respond to with the outcome, you win. ;-) >> >
This is what I was I dealing with:
https://i.imgur.com/FGoP7eW.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/8LEUOtN.jpg
As you can see the nut and washer are pretty rusty, and yes, buggered
up. I discovered that my daughter (and her BF) were trying to break
it free with an 8" crescent wrench. Ain't no friggin' way they were
getting that nut off with an 8" crescent wrench.
Turns out the nut might be 23 mm, per my caliper. (22.8x dependingIf at first you don't succeed, get a bigger hammer (or breaker
on where I measured it.) All I had with me was SAE. 7/8" was too small,
15/16" was a little loose, but I got it to work. It took about all I had to >> >break it free, but once it did, it spun off real easy.
bar/pipe).
However, looking at that saw, especially the fence, I'm not sure I evenIf it were me, I'd buy them a better (perhaps even new) saw. My son
want to use it. My daughter told me that it shot a piece of trim into
her BF's knee the last time he used it. Could have been his technique,
who knows.
has no interest in doing anything himself (but should). I gave him
some really nice tools but I don't think he's ever plugged them in.
It's got a new blade on it now...I just hope I don't need it for the projects I'mIf you don't feel safe using it, should they be using it?
working on. I may let my circular saw handle any ripping I need to do. I'm >> >not building furniture.
Her BF works for his father. Concrete business. I didn't know it until
last night, but the saw is technically a "business asset". I thought that
the TS and a miter saw that have been at my daughter's house for few
months were the BF's, but they are actually his dad's/the business's.
I've been using the miter saw for various projects around the house, just >didn't need the TS. However, they both needed blades, so I bought them, >basically for the BF for all the work he's done around the house. My daughter >doesn't use the TS and I'm not buying tools for the Dad's business.
On Fri, 25 Feb 2022 12:12:58 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:47:11 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 15:53:17 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> >>>wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:No it won't. The battery will be dead. I can't keep batteries in HF >>>calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote: >>>>>> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has >>>>>> the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded >>>>>> by Sears.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >>>>>> >> >> On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >>>>>> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation. >>>>>> >> Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >>>>>> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >>>>>> >> the bar
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade. >>>>>> >
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >>>>>> >specifically a Pro-Tech.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >>>>>Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will >>>>settle the issue as well.
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
I have a Cen-Tech 6" digital caliper bought on sale some years ago. It
does not eat batteries. But you do need to use silver oxide
batteries, not alkaline. Even if they came with alkaline.
I've bought at least three or four of them. I don't think I've ever
picked one up, unless I'd just changed batteries, that worked. Yes, I
use the silver oxide batteries but the fact is that these leak like
hell. They really are crap.
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
On Fri, 25 Feb 2022 14:47:00 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 25 Feb 2022 12:12:58 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net>
wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 20:47:11 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 15:53:17 -0500, Joe Gwinn <joegwinn@comcast.net> >>>>wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03 >>>>><teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:No it won't. The battery will be dead. I can't keep batteries in HF >>>>calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote: >>>>>>> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has >>>>>>> the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded >>>>>>> by Sears.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >>>>>>> >> >> On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >>>>>>> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation. >>>>>>> >> Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >>>>>>> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade. >>>>>>> >
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >>>>>>> >specifically a Pro-Tech.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >>>>>>Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
Vintage Machinery may also help.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simple
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
Bring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will >>>>>settle the issue as well.
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
I have a Cen-Tech 6" digital caliper bought on sale some years ago. It >>>does not eat batteries. But you do need to use silver oxide
batteries, not alkaline. Even if they came with alkaline.
I've bought at least three or four of them. I don't think I've ever
picked one up, unless I'd just changed batteries, that worked. Yes, I
use the silver oxide batteries but the fact is that these leak like
hell. They really are crap.
Silver oxide batteries *of good manufacture* do not "leak like hell".
Hmm. Lots of alkaline batteries are sold as "silver oxide", a lie.
Don't buy batteries on Amazon, or online at all.
But maybe you need to get Mitutoyo calipers. But they want silver
oxide as well.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 10:07:01 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/23/2022 9:54 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:The arbor or the nut?
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>> to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
LOL. I recall working with Swingman several years ago and removing the
arbor nut on his Unisaw, pre 2005. Small, very thin, compared to the
one on my Jet cabinet saw.
Then he saw the arbor nut on my SS and his eyes about popped out of his
head.
A 1.25" wrench is required and it is about triple the depth of his.
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:43:32 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 22:54:50 -0500, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>> to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in
that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
I have offset closed end 7/8 actually two of them, and a bandsaw blade
cutoff that is custom made by my dad. If a unicorn has two horns it is
a gazelle right.
The outer, arbor nut, is easy. It's the arbor itself that's the
problem. Is the bandsaw blade wide enough to get to the arbor? That's
really what's needed.
I've seen some skinny wrenches on Amazon. I should buy one just in
case but haven't.
On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a
2x4 into the blade.
On 2/24/2022 7:33 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 10:07:01 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/23/2022 9:54 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:The arbor or the nut?
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com>
wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>> a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>> to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>>> that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn
horns are easier to come by, too.
LOL. I recall working with Swingman several years ago and removing the
arbor nut on his Unisaw, pre 2005. Small, very thin, compared to the
one on my Jet cabinet saw.
Then he saw the arbor nut on my SS and his eyes about popped out of his
head.
A 1.25" wrench is required and it is about triple the depth of his.
The nut. The arbor is still 5/8 on the small diameter end. The bearing
end is quite a bit larger in diameter.
On Fri, 25 Feb 2022 16:56:51 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/24/2022 7:33 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 10:07:01 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/23/2022 9:54 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:The arbor or the nut?
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 20:57:23 -0600, Markem618 <markrm618@hotmail.com> >>>>> wrote:
On Wed, 23 Feb 2022 17:34:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>> a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>>>
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>>> to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
The nut on Unisaw is a 7/8" is equal to 21 mm, so would take a few in >>>>>> that range.
You're not going to get a normal wrench on a Unisaur arbor. Unicorn >>>>> horns are easier to come by, too.
LOL. I recall working with Swingman several years ago and removing the >>>> arbor nut on his Unisaw, pre 2005. Small, very thin, compared to the
one on my Jet cabinet saw.
Then he saw the arbor nut on my SS and his eyes about popped out of his >>>> head.
A 1.25" wrench is required and it is about triple the depth of his.
The nut. The arbor is still 5/8 on the small diameter end. The bearing
end is quite a bit larger in diameter.
5/8" arbor but how large are the flats the wrench bites into?
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveA decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a >>> 2x4 into the blade.
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>> to buy a set.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a >decent size.
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveA decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent >>> wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
2x4 into the blade.
Check out the picture I posted.
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveA decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a >>>> 2x4 into the blade.
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>> to buy a set.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a
decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
John T.
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveA decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a >>> 2x4 into the blade.
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>> to buy a set.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a >decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveA decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a >>>> 2x4 into the blade.
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>> to buy a set.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a >>decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 10:11:30 -0500, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote: >>>>> On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>> a metric arbor nut?A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a >>>>> 2x4 into the blade.
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>> to buy a set.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a >>> decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
I used to keep a 3 foot long crescent wrench around for such
situations. It would open to more than 3 inches and doubled
occasionally as a BFH. People didn't tend to mess with me when I had
it in my hand either. But one day somebody nicked it and I haven't
felt the need to shell out for another one.
On 2/26/2022 11:09 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/26/2022 9:09 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 10:11:30 -0500, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote: >>>>>>> On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>>> a metric arbor nut?A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm >>>>>>>> heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get >>>>>>>> the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that >>>>>>>> the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>>>>
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I >>>>>>>> may have
to buy a set.
you jam a
2x4 into the blade.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut >>>>> is a
decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ? >>>> I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide >>>> good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
I used to keep a 3 foot long crescent wrench around for such
situations. It would open to more than 3 inches and doubled
occasionally as a BFH. People didn't tend to mess with me when I had
it in my hand either. But one day somebody nicked it and I haven't
felt the need to shell out for another one.
One would assume that OP would be intelligent enough to know what a
"good size" adjustable wrench for the saw he owns is. Its his saw
after all. Of course there is the possibility he has never change a
blade before, doesn't know if he can pull a dust cover if need be or
must reach through a plate opening in the table, and has no ability to
visualize simple spacial relations. I don't think that is very
likely. Even those most limited in ability develop those skills over
time with practice in trades such as wood working. You all could
choose to argue for the incompetence of DerbyDad03, but I choose to
think based on observation even if just in this group that is not the
case. If you prefer not the term good size, then try on appropriate
size, decent size, or right size. In spite of the fact that many seem
to think dumping selection and raising prices is a best business
practices for retail I still choose to believe most of you possess a
reasonable modicum of intelligence.
Finished now?
On 2/26/2022 9:09 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 10:11:30 -0500, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote: >>>>>> On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>> a metric arbor nut?A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you >>>>>> jam a
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm
heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get
the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that
the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>>>
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I
may have
to buy a set.
2x4 into the blade.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut
is a
decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
I used to keep a 3 foot long crescent wrench around for such
situations. It would open to more than 3 inches and doubled
occasionally as a BFH. People didn't tend to mess with me when I had
it in my hand either. But one day somebody nicked it and I haven't
felt the need to shell out for another one.
One would assume that OP would be intelligent enough to know what a
"good size" adjustable wrench for the saw he owns is. Its his saw after all. Of course there is the possibility he has never change a blade
before, doesn't know if he can pull a dust cover if need be or must
reach through a plate opening in the table, and has no ability to
visualize simple spacial relations. I don't think that is very likely.
Even those most limited in ability develop those skills over time with practice in trades such as wood working. You all could choose to argue
for the incompetence of DerbyDad03, but I choose to think based on observation even if just in this group that is not the case. If you
prefer not the term good size, then try on appropriate size, decent
size, or right size. In spite of the fact that many seem to think
dumping selection and raising prices is a best business practices for
retail I still choose to believe most of you possess a reasonable
modicum of intelligence.
On 2/26/2022 11:09 AM, Bob La Londe wrote:
On 2/26/2022 9:09 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 10:11:30 -0500, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote: >>>>>>> On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>>>> a metric arbor nut?A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you >>>>>>> jam a
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm >>>>>>>> heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get >>>>>>>> the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that >>>>>>>> the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>>>>
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I >>>>>>>> may have
to buy a set.
2x4 into the blade.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut
is a
decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ? >>>> I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
I used to keep a 3 foot long crescent wrench around for such
situations. It would open to more than 3 inches and doubled
occasionally as a BFH. People didn't tend to mess with me when I had
it in my hand either. But one day somebody nicked it and I haven't
felt the need to shell out for another one.
One would assume that OP would be intelligent enough to know what a
"good size" adjustable wrench for the saw he owns is. Its his saw after
all. Of course there is the possibility he has never change a blade
before, doesn't know if he can pull a dust cover if need be or must
reach through a plate opening in the table, and has no ability to
visualize simple spacial relations. I don't think that is very likely.
Even those most limited in ability develop those skills over time with
practice in trades such as wood working. You all could choose to argue
for the incompetence of DerbyDad03, but I choose to think based on
observation even if just in this group that is not the case. If you
prefer not the term good size, then try on appropriate size, decent
size, or right size. In spite of the fact that many seem to think
dumping selection and raising prices is a best business practices for
retail I still choose to believe most of you possess a reasonable
modicum of intelligence.
Finished now?
On 2/26/2022 9:11 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote: >>>>> On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>> a metric arbor nut?A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a >>>>> 2x4 into the blade.
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have >>>>>> to buy a set.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a >>> decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
John T.
I know right? LOL. I looked on line sad saw no adjustable sized
wrenches with the size stated as "good sized". ;~)
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one: ><https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
On 2/26/2022 9:09 AM, J. Clarke wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 10:11:30 -0500, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Sat, 26 Feb 2022 08:53:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 2/25/2022 8:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, February 25, 2022 at 3:59:40 PM UTC-5, Bob La Londe wrote: >>>>> On 2/23/2022 6:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will have >>>>>> a metric arbor nut?A decent size adjustable wrench should do the job just fine if you jam a
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading >>>>>> there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut >>>>>> off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >>>>>>
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
2x4 into the blade.
I wonder what wold qualify as a "decent size". I wonder if the nut is a >>> decent size.
I wonder what range of sizes a table saw arbor nut could possibly be ?
I wonder what size of adustable wrench would fit and also provide
good leverage for the stuck nut ?
Oh my goodness .. so many important details to ponder !
I used to keep a 3 foot long crescent wrench around for suchOne would assume that OP would be intelligent enough to know what a
situations. It would open to more than 3 inches and doubled
occasionally as a BFH. People didn't tend to mess with me when I had
it in my hand either. But one day somebody nicked it and I haven't
felt the need to shell out for another one.
"good size" adjustable wrench for the saw he owns is. Its his saw after
all.
Of course there is the possibility he has never change a blade
before, doesn't know if he can pull a dust cover if need be or must
reach through a plate opening in the table, and has no ability to
visualize simple spacial relations. I don't think that is very likely.
Even those most limited in ability develop those skills over time with practice in trades such as wood working. You all could choose to argue
for the incompetence of DerbyDad03, but I choose to think based on observation even if just in this group that is not the case. If you
prefer not the term good size, then try on appropriate size, decent
size, or right size. In spite of the fact that many seem to think
dumping selection and raising prices is a best business practices for
retail I still choose to believe most of you possess a reasonable
modicum of intelligence.
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one: <https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>>> issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>>>> issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge >(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>>>> issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge >(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper thanI like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >> >>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >> >>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >> >>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >> >>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >> >>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >> >>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>>>>> issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge >>(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16
If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by
two.
For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>>>>>> issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
On 3/3/2022 7:52 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 and
subtract 27.
If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by1.5625, not checking, I believe is 1-9/16" Just checked YES!
two.
For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm
good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like >49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75"
On 3/3/2022 7:52 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest
denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16
But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 and
subtract 27.
If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by
two.
For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
1.5625, not checking, I believe is 1-9/16" Just checked YES!
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:10:08 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:52 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest
denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16
But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 andOK, that's 2-14/32 - 27/32
subtract 27.
You know you're going to have to borrow one so add one (32/32) to the
14/32, giving 46/32. 46/32 - 27/32 is 19/32,
1-19/32
If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by
two.
For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
1.5625, not checking, I believe is 1-9/16" Just checked YES!
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm
good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like
49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75"
I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come
out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up
gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:10:08 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:52 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest
denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16
But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 and
subtract 27.
OK, that's 2-14/32 - 27/32
You know you're going to have to borrow one so add one (32/32) to the
14/32, giving 46/32. 46/32 - 27/32 is 19/32,
1-19/32
If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by
two.
For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
1.5625, not checking, I believe is 1-9/16" Just checked YES!
On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 2:23:20 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:10:08 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:52 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:OK, that's 2-14/32 - 27/32
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >> >>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >> >>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >> >>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >> >>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >> >>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >> >>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >> >>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >> >>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings.
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone.
Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest
denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16
But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 and
subtract 27.
You know you're going to have to borrow one so add one (32/32) to the
14/32, giving 46/32. 46/32 - 27/32 is 19/32,
1-19/32
Everyone here (I'm assuming) knows the math.
We also know how to write a letter, put it in an envelope, stamp it and get it >into the USPS system in one manner or the other. Yet most of us use email.
We all know how to chop nuts into little pieces with a knife, but many of us >use a food processer.
I could beat my clothes on a rock down by the river, but I choose to use my >washing machine.
Like I said earlier, tapping buttons gets me the same answer, quicker, easier >and with less (zero?) chance of error.
Repeating my other example, I'd use the app for this every time:
(4 3/16 - 2 5/8 + 1 1/2 + 3 23/32) / 3 = 2 25/96 or 2.26042
If it needs to be divided by two, multiply the largest denominator by
two.
For what purpose? So that you can convert to metric?
It also provides a decimal result (1.5625)
1.5625, not checking, I believe is 1-9/16" Just checked YES!
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>>> thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>>>>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up >>>> a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm
good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like >>> 49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75"
I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come
out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up
gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was
learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is
not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the
object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you
wanted.
I try not to actually drag and click on an attachment point. I try to
start the line in the direction that I want it to go and then type the >distance.
I found that this most often happened when not insuring the lines were
going in the direction that I expected, although they appeared to be.
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> >>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than >>>>> one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up >>>>> a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm
good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like >>>> 49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75"
I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come
out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up
gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was
learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is
not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the
object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you
wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that
it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I
tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect
it to be.
I try not to actually drag and click on an attachment point. I try to
start the line in the direction that I want it to go and then type the
distance.
I found that this most often happened when not insuring the lines were
going in the direction that I expected, although they appeared to be.
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> >>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than >>>>>> one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up >>>>>> a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm >>>>> good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like >>>>> 49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75"
I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come
out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up >>>> gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was
learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is
not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the
object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you
wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that
it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I
tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect
it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes on small details the snap
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line.
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new
line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection >point.
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>I think all, at least most digital calipers show MM, inch and fractions.
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed >>>>>>> between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the >>>>>>> batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor >>>>>>> issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my >>>>>>> shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to >>>>>>> read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have >>>>>>> to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries.
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30 >>>>>>> on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more.
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with >>> tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
On Friday, March 4, 2022 at 2:23:20 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:10:08 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:52 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:OK, that's 2-14/32 - 27/32
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 13:43:47 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, March 3, 2022 at 4:33:30 PM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >>>>>> On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hub...@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbst...@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>>>
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I >>>>>>>>>>> thought I would.
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html> >>>>>>>>>>> Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ... >>>>>>>>>>
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial >>>>>>>>> calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The >>>>>>>>> dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are >>>>>>>>> what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic >>>>>>>>> ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is >>>>>>>> going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless >>>>>>>> for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say
bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old
combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I >>>>>>> doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
Same here. 3 types of physical measurements and 3 types of readings. >>>>>
I also like the Fraction Calculator app that I have on my smartphone. >>>>> Direct entry of mixed numbers:
4 3/16 - 2 5/8 = 1 9/16
I don't use a calculator, just do the arithmetic using the largest
denominator.
4-3/16 - 2-10/16 or 4.3 - 2.10 (mod 16) = 1-9/16
But mixed fractions, 2-7/16" - 27/32". I know double the 7 and
subtract 27.
You know you're going to have to borrow one so add one (32/32) to the
14/32, giving 46/32. 46/32 - 27/32 is 19/32,
1-19/32
Everyone here (I'm assuming) knows the math.
We also know how to write a letter, put it in an envelope, stamp it and get it
into the USPS system in one manner or the other. Yet most of us use email.
We all know how to chop nuts into little pieces with a knife, but many of us use a food processer.
I could beat my clothes on a rock down by the river, but I choose to use my washing machine.
Like I said earlier, tapping buttons gets me the same answer, quicker, easier and with less (zero?) chance of error.
Repeating my other example, I'd use the app for this every time:
(4 3/16 - 2 5/8 + 1 1/2 + 3 23/32) / 3 = 2 25/96 or 2.26042
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 17:34:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> >>>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example.
99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>>>>>>>> combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than >>>>>>> one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up >>>>>>> a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm >>>>>> good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like >>>>>> 49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75"
I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come
out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up >>>>> gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was
learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is
not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the >>>> object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you
wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that
it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I
tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect
it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes, I was thinking about the circuit CAD I used at work. It was
called "gravity" because it tended to pull the "cursor" toward the
point, effectively like snap-to but it had a different "snap" (to
grid).
Yes on small details the snap
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line.
I got that.
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new
line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection
point.
OK but how does this solve the 1/64" off problem?
On 3/4/2022 9:43 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 17:34:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come >>>>>> out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up >>>>>> gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote: >>>>>>>>>
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>>>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter).
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more >>>>>>>>>>> accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better >>>>>>>>>>> than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example. >>>>>>>>>>
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>>>>>>>>> combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than >>>>>>>> one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up >>>>>>>> a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm >>>>>>> good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments.
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like
49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75" >>>>>>
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was
learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is >>>>> not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the >>>>> object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you >>>>> wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that
it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I
tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect >>>> it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes, I was thinking about the circuit CAD I used at work. It was
called "gravity" because it tended to pull the "cursor" toward the
point, effectively like snap-to but it had a different "snap" (to
grid).
Yes on small details the snap
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line.
I got that.
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new >>> line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection
point.
OK but how does this solve the 1/64" off problem?
The simple answer is draw more accurately. ;~)
It is an accuracy drawing problem. I was always at fault.
I use a plug-in for Sketchup that I have a short cut key to use. I
select a line and or object and invoke the short cut key and a pop up
window gives me dimensions of that selection so that I can verify.
Also if I do something wrong I begin to see stuff not working correctly.
An error multiplies. This is an important reason to make components
so that correcting an issue does not involve the whole drawing.
I have found Sketchup to be dead on accurate once I determined that
small discrepancies were my errors.
The plug-in mentioned above is what I often use to quickly find the problem.
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:Vintage Machinery may also help.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote: >> >> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >> >> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish. >> >> >> >> >
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >> >> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut >> >> >> the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >> >Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simpleBring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
settle the issue as well.
Joe Gwinn
Already packed...It's one of my standard "take along" tools. ;-)
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 10:54:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 9:43 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 17:34:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come >>>>>>> out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up >>>>>>> gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well >>>>>>>>>> as decimal inch and metric)
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my >>>>>>>>>>> drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter). >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example. >>>>>>>>>>>
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>>>>>>>>>> combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I >>>>>>>>>>> don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than >>>>>>>>> one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm >>>>>>>> good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments. >>>>>>>>
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like
49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75" >>>>>>>
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was
learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is >>>>>> not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the >>>>>> object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you >>>>>> wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that >>>>> it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I
tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect >>>>> it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes, I was thinking about the circuit CAD I used at work. It was
called "gravity" because it tended to pull the "cursor" toward the
point, effectively like snap-to but it had a different "snap" (to
grid).
Yes on small details the snapI got that.
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line. >>>
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new >>>> line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection >>>> point.
OK but how does this solve the 1/64" off problem?
The simple answer is draw more accurately. ;~)
It is an accuracy drawing problem. I was always at fault.
I use a plug-in for Sketchup that I have a short cut key to use. I
select a line and or object and invoke the short cut key and a pop up
window gives me dimensions of that selection so that I can verify.
I do use lengths when not snapping to an existing point. Somewhere
along the way something goes wacky. I'm wondering if it's not a
conversion or rounding error.
Also if I do something wrong I begin to see stuff not working correctly.
An error multiplies. This is an important reason to make components
so that correcting an issue does not involve the whole drawing.
I have found Sketchup to be dead on accurate once I determined that
small discrepancies were my errors.
I don't think I can make any dimension less a 1/64th.
The plug-in mentioned above is what I often use to quickly find the problem.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 13:35:07 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:Vintage Machinery may also help.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's >> >> >> rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation. >> >> >> Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn >> >> >> the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching >> >Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simpleBring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
settle the issue as well.
Joe Gwinn
Already packed...It's one of my standard "take along" tools. ;-)
What size did that arbor nut turn out to be?
On 3/5/2022 2:52 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 10:54:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 9:43 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 17:34:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come >>>>>>>> out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up >>>>>>>> gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring >>>>>>>>>>>> threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter). >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see.
I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite >>>>>>>>>>>>> useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example. >>>>>>>>>>>>
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to >>>>>>>>>>>> 128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>>>>>>>>>>> combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than >>>>>>>>>>>> yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than >>>>>>>>>> one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm >>>>>>>>> good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments. >>>>>>>>>
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like
49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75" >>>>>>>>
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was >>>>>>> learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is >>>>>>> not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the >>>>>>> object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not
form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you >>>>>>> wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that >>>>>> it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I >>>>>> tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect >>>>>> it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes, I was thinking about the circuit CAD I used at work. It was
called "gravity" because it tended to pull the "cursor" toward the
point, effectively like snap-to but it had a different "snap" (to
grid).
Yes on small details the snapI got that.
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line. >>>>
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new >>>>> line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection >>>>> point.
OK but how does this solve the 1/64" off problem?
The simple answer is draw more accurately. ;~)
It is an accuracy drawing problem. I was always at fault.
I use a plug-in for Sketchup that I have a short cut key to use. I
select a line and or object and invoke the short cut key and a pop up
window gives me dimensions of that selection so that I can verify.
I do use lengths when not snapping to an existing point. Somewhere
along the way something goes wacky. I'm wondering if it's not a
conversion or rounding error.
No, not by the program in the increment that you're referencing, 1/64".
I don't think so. Sketchup really only rounds if your input is wonky.
Do you work in smaller fractions that would require Sketchup to round up?
If your length is input or snaps to x/128 or smaller it would round up.
But if you are drawing, intentionally, in x/32" of an inch or greater
I don't see any rounding.
I have never found it to be Sketchup's fault.
Also if I do something wrong I begin to see stuff not working correctly. >>> An error multiplies. This is an important reason to make components
so that correcting an issue does not involve the whole drawing.
I have found Sketchup to be dead on accurate once I determined that
small discrepancies were my errors.
I don't think I can make any dimension less a 1/64th.
Not in fractions but in decimal/engineering you can go to .00000"
The plug-in mentioned above is what I often use to quickly find the problem.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to? Yes on small details the snap
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the
line.
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the
new
line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a
connection point.
Absolutely!!! I try to watch for the red, blue, and green lines when drawing a line. Pink/Purplish lines mean that lines are not setting
up in ortho mode and are possibly going in a direction that is the
same as another non ortho line.
On Saturday, March 5, 2022 at 6:56:08 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 13:35:07 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:Vintage Machinery may also help.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has >> >> >> the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded >> >> >> by Sears.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >> >> >> On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation. >> >> >> >> Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade.
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >> >> >> >specifically a Pro-Tech.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching
Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simpleBring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
settle the issue as well.
Joe Gwinn
Already packed...It's one of my standard "take along" tools. ;-)
What size did that arbor nut turn out to be?
I think a 23 mm wrench would have worked the best.
A 7/8" wrench was too small, a 15/16" was a little sloppy, but
with slow, steady pressure I got it to break free. They were
trying to get it off with a cheap 8" crescent. No way.
The nut was buggered up a bit, but I don't think it was so
bad that that was what prevented the 7/8" from going on.
<https://imgur.com/8LEUOtN>
Then I turned the saw on. It sure sounds like the bearings
are shot. I didn't use it. It would have made some of what I
doing easier, but I got it done with a circular saw and a
straight edge.
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 17:56:07 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/5/2022 2:52 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 10:54:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/4/2022 9:43 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 17:34:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come >>>>>>>>> out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter). >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example. >>>>>>>>>>>>>
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>>>>>>>>>>>> combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm >>>>>>>>>> good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments. >>>>>>>>>>
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like
49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75" >>>>>>>>>
gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was >>>>>>>> learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is >>>>>>>> not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the >>>>>>>> object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not >>>>>>>> form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the
dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you >>>>>>>> wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that >>>>>>> it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I >>>>>>> tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect >>>>>>> it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes, I was thinking about the circuit CAD I used at work. It was
called "gravity" because it tended to pull the "cursor" toward the
point, effectively like snap-to but it had a different "snap" (to
grid).
Yes on small details the snapI got that.
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line. >>>>>
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new
line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection >>>>>> point.
OK but how does this solve the 1/64" off problem?
The simple answer is draw more accurately. ;~)
It is an accuracy drawing problem. I was always at fault.
I use a plug-in for Sketchup that I have a short cut key to use. I
select a line and or object and invoke the short cut key and a pop up
window gives me dimensions of that selection so that I can verify.
I do use lengths when not snapping to an existing point. Somewhere
along the way something goes wacky. I'm wondering if it's not a
conversion or rounding error.
No, not by the program in the increment that you're referencing, 1/64".
I don't think so. Sketchup really only rounds if your input is wonky.
Do you work in smaller fractions that would require Sketchup to round up?
I don't even use 64ths. I don't often use 1/8s, unless forced to.
Probably not but it's happened so many times that it's something
If your length is input or snaps to x/128 or smaller it would round up.
But if you are drawing, intentionally, in x/32" of an inch or greater
I don't see any rounding.
I have never found it to be Sketchup's fault.
that's repeated. It seems to always be 1/64".
That's why I think there may be some rounding going on.
Also if I do something wrong I begin to see stuff not working correctly. >>>> An error multiplies. This is an important reason to make components >>>> so that correcting an issue does not involve the whole drawing.
I have found Sketchup to be dead on accurate once I determined that
small discrepancies were my errors.
I don't think I can make any dimension less a 1/64th.
Not in fractions but in decimal/engineering you can go to .00000"
The plug-in mentioned above is what I often use to quickly find the problem.
Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote in news:MfOdneAkZ6ebP7__nZ2dnUU7-KnNnZ2d@giganews.com:
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to? Yes on small details the snap
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the
line.
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the
new
line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a
connection point.
I did that once...man that was annoying. I think it was 1.15 rather than 1.25 and nothing was lining up.
Absolutely!!! I try to watch for the red, blue, and green lines when
drawing a line. Pink/Purplish lines mean that lines are not setting
up in ortho mode and are possibly going in a direction that is the
same as another non ortho line.
I also watch for the colors when drawing the line, but use the keyboard shortcuts to help. If I know the line is going in the red direction, I
press right to snap it to the red direction. Left is green and Blue is up/down.
Puckdropper
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 16:46:54 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, March 5, 2022 at 6:56:08 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 13:35:07 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote: >> >> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03Vintage Machinery may also help.
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has >> >> >> the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded >> >> >> by Sears.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >> >> >> On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade. >> >> >> >
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS, >> >> >> >specifically a Pro-Tech.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching
Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simpleBring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
settle the issue as well.
Joe Gwinn
Already packed...It's one of my standard "take along" tools. ;-)
What size did that arbor nut turn out to be?
I think a 23 mm wrench would have worked the best.
A 7/8" wrench was too small, a 15/16" was a little sloppy, but7/8" is 22.23 mm, and 15/16" is 23.81 mm.
with slow, steady pressure I got it to break free. They were
trying to get it off with a cheap 8" crescent. No way.
A US 7/8" wrench opening range is 0.880 to 0.888 inches.
A US 15/16" wrench opening range is 0.944 to 0,953 inches.
There is no standard 23 mm wrench, only 22 mm and 24 mm. But 29/32"
is almost exactly 23 mm. There were such things as 29/32" wrenches in
the old days (before WW2?), but no longer.
The 15/16" wrench you used, is it 12-point or 6-point, or open-end? A
6-point wrench is standard for corroded and/or battered nuts.
What is the diameter of the arbor shaft that holds the saw blade.
Likely 5/8", as this is standard for circular saw arbors from 6" to
8.5" in diameter. In this case, the standard nut is 15/16" across
flats.
The nut was buggered up a bit, but I don't think it was so
bad that that was what prevented the 7/8" from going on.
<https://imgur.com/8LEUOtN>Agree. Nicely rounded.
Then I turned the saw on. It sure sounds like the bearingsWell, I inherited an old Delta franken-saw from my father, and while
are shot. I didn't use it. It would have made some of what I
doing easier, but I got it done with a circular saw and a
straight edge.
it worked OK, it did very much need new bearings. Which it eventually
got.
I did have to make a special wrench to unscrew the bearing retaining
spanner nut, which was recessed into the cavity holding the bearings.
Making the tool required metalworking tools, a lathe and a mill.
Nothing else would work.
Joe Gwinn
On Sunday, March 6, 2022 at 2:41:03 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 16:46:54 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Saturday, March 5, 2022 at 6:56:08 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:7/8" is 22.23 mm, and 15/16" is 23.81 mm.
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 13:35:07 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 3:53:30 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote:
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 12:28:27 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 2:27:29 PM UTC-5, Joe Gwinn wrote: >> >> >> >> On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 09:23:33 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03Vintage Machinery may also help.
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 11:53:21 AM UTC-5, Clare Snyder wrote:These saws were sold by Sears, at least for a while. Sears often has
On Thu, 24 Feb 2022 08:28:03 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 10:57:38 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:The nut ALWAYS tightens in the opposite direction of the saw blade's
On 2/23/2022 7:34 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Is it safe to assume that a TS made in Taiwan (Pro-Tech) will haveAssuming that where you are going is near a hardware store, buy a wrench
a metric arbor nut?
I want to change the blade, but the TS is 180 miles away. (I'm heading
there tomorrow.) The person who has it (borrowed it) can't get the nut
off with a crescent wrench. The best she could tell me is that the crescent
wrench is opened to about 15/16", so it might be 23 - 24 mm-ish.
I've SAE much bigger than that, but metric only up to 19 mm. I may have
to buy a set.
From Harbor Freight, of course. ;-)
at that location.
Past that, what brand? Can you google a parts schematic of the parts
and wrenches of that particular model?
The brand is in the first line of my post ;-)
Pro-Tech. I don't know the model number, but I (and she) weren't able to find
a manual for any Pro-Tech table saw. The closest we found was other people
looking for a manual.
As I mentioned in a couple of other responses, I'll know more tonight when I
put my eyes on the saw.
rotation. In other words, it loosens in the direction of rotation.
Block the blade with a bar in the gullet of the blade tooth and turn
the nut in the direction that would cause the blade to attempt to cut
the bar
I assume that info is just for general knowledge for anyone lurking in the wRec.
Those of us that have been around and using table saws, miter saws, circular
saws, etc. for decades are familiar with how to change the blade. >> >> >> >> >
The question was about the size of the arbor nut in a Taiwanese TS,
specifically a Pro-Tech.
the documentation, even on old stuff, even if the say is not branded
by Sears.
Joe Gwinn
Thanks.
I'd need to find a model number that works in the Sears system. Searching
Sear Parts Direct with various forms of "Pro-Tech" returns a couple of parts
for a treadmill.
I'll be in front of the saw later this evening. Maybe the solution is as simpleBring a digital caliper. Even one from Harbor Freight. That will
as what I have in my toolbox. I'll know soon enough.
settle the issue as well.
Joe Gwinn
Already packed...It's one of my standard "take along" tools. ;-)
What size did that arbor nut turn out to be?
I think a 23 mm wrench would have worked the best.
A 7/8" wrench was too small, a 15/16" was a little sloppy, but
with slow, steady pressure I got it to break free. They were
trying to get it off with a cheap 8" crescent. No way.
A US 7/8" wrench opening range is 0.880 to 0.888 inches.
A US 15/16" wrench opening range is 0.944 to 0,953 inches.
There is no standard 23 mm wrench, only 22 mm and 24 mm. But 29/32"
is almost exactly 23 mm. There were such things as 29/32" wrenches in
the old days (before WW2?), but no longer.
Then what are all these? There's some unrelated items mixed in, but lots
of 23 mm, singles and in sets.
https://www.amazon.com/23mm-wrench/s?k=23mm+wrench
The 15/16" wrench you used, is it 12-point or 6-point, or open-end? A
6-point wrench is standard for corroded and/or battered nuts.
12 point and open end. The 12 point worried me, but it actually
felt better wobble wise, so I used it and it worked.
What is the diameter of the arbor shaft that holds the saw blade.
Likely 5/8", as this is standard for circular saw arbors from 6" to
8.5" in diameter. In this case, the standard nut is 15/16" across
flats.
Don't know, don't care. Not my saw. ;-)
On 3/5/2022 10:12 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 17:56:07 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/5/2022 2:52 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I don't even use 64ths. I don't often use 1/8s, unless forced to.
On Sat, 5 Mar 2022 10:54:48 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 3/4/2022 9:43 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 17:34:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>
On 3/4/2022 5:22 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 15:36:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>>>
On 3/4/2022 12:37 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 4 Mar 2022 11:02:56 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 3/3/2022 7:41 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I find that conversion much harder, particularly if it doesn't come >>>>>>>>>> out exact. I don't know how it happens but once in a while, Sketch up
On Thu, 03 Mar 2022 16:33:25 -0500, Clare Snyder <clare@snyder.on.ca>
wrote:
On Thu, 3 Mar 2022 11:36:44 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:
On 3/2/2022 2:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:I like my digital caliper that reads out fractional inches. (as well
On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 10:25:12 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:99.99% of the time a rule works fine in a wood shop. For measuring
On 3/2/2022 10:05 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On Wed, 2 Mar 2022 09:47:19 -0500, Jack <jbstein2@comcast.net> wrote:I disagree but I get your point. Setting up tools takes a lot more
On 2/26/2022 3:05 PM, whit3rd wrote:
On Thursday, February 24, 2022 at 5:47:17 PM UTC-8, k...@notreal.com wrote:Both my digital calipers and my Wixey gauge need the battery removed
... I can't keep batteries in HF
calipers (or Wixey widgets for that matter). >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Dial calipers, even Harbor Freight, don't have that problem but
haven't found dial Wixey gauges. ;-)
Try this one:
<https://www.harborfreight.com/dial-gauge-angle-finder-34214.html>
between uses or they go dead. I rarely use the Wixey, but to my
surprise, I use the digital calipers in my woodshop far more than I
thought I would.
The rather cheap digital calipers has two major problems. One is the
batteries go dead and the other is the battery cover falls off. A minor
issue is it measures to the thousands which I almost NEVER need in my
shop.
Recently, I bought a dial caliper that has no batteries and is easy to
read, measures to the 64th but super easy to read. No longer do I have
to fool with 7/128 of an inch, nor worry about batteries. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Best thing I bought in a while for the shop. I think it was around $30
on Ebay.
These ones are as accurate as my old eyesight is to read them ...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/52906-imperial-metric-vernier-caliper?item=99W2003
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/calipers/72518-longlife-pocket-caliper?item=24N0655
Most any measuring tool is accurate enough for a wood shop. The dial
calipers are accurate, but super duper easy for old eyes to read. The
dials are designed like a machinist would use but the increments are
what wood workers use. Ideal combination. More money than the plastic
ones you list, but better for the old eyes to see. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
accuracy/resolution than a rule can give. 1/64" out on a miter slot is
going to get noticed. Measuring threads is going to take more. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
For either of these there is a better way but it takes a lot better
than what a rule can do.
As pointed out, inside/outside/depth, in any combination is quite
useful and something that doesn't come with a rule. A rule is useless
for setting dado width, at least in one pass, for example. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
threads, a thread gauge is the correct tool, and to measure say >>>>>>>>>>>>>> bolt/screw diameter 1/64" is plenty accurate, particularly since my
drill bits to drill the holes are in 1/64 increments, measuring to
128ths in not useful.
When I bought the Wixey angle gauge, I tested every one of my tools with
tilt tables and they ALL were withing the accuracy limits of the Wixey gauge
(+/- 0.1 degrees.) I always set them with my 70 some year old >>>>>>>>>>>>>> combination-square so that surprised me.
At any rate, the dial calipers I recently bought were cheaper than
yours, but likely also cheaper in build quality but it works great. I
doubt I'll use my digital battery powered calipers much, if ever. I
don't need the accuracy or the aggravation.
as decimal inch and metric)
I'm rarely if ever working in two systems at once. Having more than
one dial caliper in the drawer is far less aggravation than picking up
a caliper with dead batteries.
I *never* use decimal inches.
I find it much faster to draw in Sketchup using Decimal inches. I'm
good for most any resolution that I draw to, .125" increments. >>>>>>>>>>>
And when plaining I can visualize decimal increments over something like
49/64" Do I need to stop or take off more if headed to 3/4"/.75" >>>>>>>>>>
gets slightly (1/64, typically) off.
I remember that issue coming up every once in a while when I was >>>>>>>>> learning. It most often happened when I dimension something that is >>>>>>>>> not closed in to make a flat surface. IE. The last line to close the
object looks close enough but does not. If the surface did not >>>>>>>>> form/darken it was probably not drawn as expected. And the >>>>>>>>> dimensioning measures the line that looked like it was the length you >>>>>>>>> wanted.
Does that attach it to another object? Using gravity guarantees that >>>>>>>> it's attached (but perhaps not where you think it is, I guess). I >>>>>>>> tend to spin the objects around to make sure everything is as I expect >>>>>>>> it to be.
Gravity? Are you referring to snap-to?
Yes, I was thinking about the circuit CAD I used at work. It was
called "gravity" because it tended to pull the "cursor" toward the >>>>>> point, effectively like snap-to but it had a different "snap" (to
grid).
Yes on small details the snap
points can be either end or mid point, and lengthen or shorten the line.
I got that.
AND often a type-o can draw a line a certain distance and then the new
line to connect to it makes the object NON Square to reach a connection >>>>>>> point.
OK but how does this solve the 1/64" off problem?
The simple answer is draw more accurately. ;~)
It is an accuracy drawing problem. I was always at fault.
I use a plug-in for Sketchup that I have a short cut key to use. I
select a line and or object and invoke the short cut key and a pop up >>>>> window gives me dimensions of that selection so that I can verify.
I do use lengths when not snapping to an existing point. Somewhere
along the way something goes wacky. I'm wondering if it's not a
conversion or rounding error.
No, not by the program in the increment that you're referencing, 1/64".
I don't think so. Sketchup really only rounds if your input is wonky.
Do you work in smaller fractions that would require Sketchup to round up? >>
Probably not but it's happened so many times that it's something
If your length is input or snaps to x/128 or smaller it would round up.
But if you are drawing, intentionally, in x/32" of an inch or greater
I don't see any rounding.
I have never found it to be Sketchup's fault.
that's repeated. It seems to always be 1/64".
That's why I think there may be some rounding going on.
Also if I do something wrong I begin to see stuff not working correctly. >>>>> An error multiplies. This is an important reason to make components >>>>> so that correcting an issue does not involve the whole drawing.
I have found Sketchup to be dead on accurate once I determined that
small discrepancies were my errors.
I don't think I can make any dimension less a 1/64th.
Not in fractions but in decimal/engineering you can go to .00000"
The plug-in mentioned above is what I often use to quickly find the problem.
If your inputs are correct and your lines are snapping to where they
should be attaching, there should be no rounding at all.
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