If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
BobWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
animal.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I had not thought about making dominoes with the Origin. That idea has a lot of merit. However, the onboard design will not make rounded end rectangles, or I am overlooking it. Its no sweat to use shaper labs or affinity designer to make such an
The other choice is to teach myself not to make mistakes. I am guilty of trying to keep track of things in my head when I have a workpiece that takes up a lot of table space. The most recent example is the palette frame for my wife's easel project. Itis 40" x 35" and has dominoes or dowels 20 joints. That is 20 opportunities for mistakes. My assembly table is big enough when I clean all the crap off of it. So that is what I will have to do. :-)
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
animal.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I had not thought about making dominoes with the Origin. That idea has a lot of merit. However, the onboard design will not make rounded end rectangles, or I am overlooking it. Its no sweat to use shaper labs or affinity designer to make such an
The other choice is to teach myself not to make mistakes. I am guilty of trying to keep track of things in my head when I have a workpiece that takes up a lot of table space. The most recent example is the palette frame for my wife's easel project.It is 40" x 35" and has dominoes or dowels 20 joints. That is 20 opportunities for mistakes. My assembly table is big enough when I clean all the crap off of it. So that is what I will have to do. :-)
Bob
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
BobWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismy workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >>
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6hLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >> >>
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisin my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >> >> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >> >> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >> >> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven'tOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots of
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
Bob
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven'tOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots of
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that gap once it's planed/sanded down?
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >> >> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven'tAs promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all the
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
Bob
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisin my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >> >> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >> >> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop together).OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots
apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or soBobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that gap once it's planed/sanded down?
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >> >> >> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >> >> >> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote: >> > On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> > > >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> > > >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that >> gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or so
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisdomino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >> > > >> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >> > > of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >> > > 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >> > > that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >> > > make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >> > > time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around >> the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
Bob
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or so
I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisdomino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all the
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 5:48:49 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven'tAs promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
BobLooks like you need some new heels for your Grr-Ripper. ;-)
Hey Kevin, did you notice the angled handle?
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:01:27 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >> >> >> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> >> >> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
inches offset. Go look closely at the cut photos and note the depth and offset settings as they change in each photo.I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
The origin will not allow a climb cut unless you do some tricks in the configuration. None of the photos I posted have a climb cut. I made progressive passes cutting deeper each time with an offset of 0.01 inches. I made a finishing pass with 0.0
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >> >> > > >> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >> >> > > of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >> >> > > 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >> >> > > that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >> >> > > make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >> >> > > time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around >> >> the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
Bob
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or so
I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisa domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >> >> > > >> >> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >> >> > > rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >> >> > > lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >> >> > > here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >> >> > > used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or
I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:18:11 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >> >> >> > > >> >> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp
x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >> >> >> > > rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >> >> >> > > lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >> >> >> > > here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >> >> >> > > used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or
to come back to that exact place that I had so carefully set previously.From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker'sI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
Yes, I've had it since last summer. I did not use it much at first, but I seem to use it daily now. I find it quite useful to "bookmark" my setting with it. I find myself needing to move the fence for one reason or another and it's great to be able
On the far left side of the saw, I have installed a sawstop cast iron router table extension with Incra router insert, jessem mastr lift, and rockler dust box. It is a super fine router set up and being on the left side is genius for a small shop.
By the way, Infinitytools.com has the Jessem table saw guides in stock and on sale.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:18:11 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >> >> >> > > >> >> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp
x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >> >> >> > > rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >> >> >> > > lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >> >> >> > > here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >> >> >> > > used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or
to come back to that exact place that I had so carefully set previously.From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker'sI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
Yes, I've had it since last summer. I did not use it much at first, but I seem to use it daily now. I find it quite useful to "bookmark" my setting with it. I find myself needing to move the fence for one reason or another and it's great to be able
On the far left side of the saw, I have installed a sawstop cast iron router table extension with Incra router insert, jessem mastr lift, and rockler dust box. It is a super fine router set up and being on the left side is genius for a small shop.
By the way, Infinitytools.com has the Jessem table saw guides in stock and on sale.
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots of
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
Bob
I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that gap once it's planed/sanded down?
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismy workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >>>>>
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davisdomino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and lots
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>> lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around >>>>> the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
Bob
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or
I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismy workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>>> lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works. >>>> I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like aI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
On 1/28/2022 7:01 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
As Bob pointed out the Origin dictates the direction of travel unless
making a pocket cut to clear/hollow out a section.
In the early videos, by the Shaper guys, they often recommend cutting a
few "thousandths" shy of the finished shape. Then sneaking up on the
final size for a smoother edge cut.
I think this is mostly to guard against bit chatter that may leave a
rough edge.
That said, I seldom do this as most of the wood that I work with does
not fuzz out on the edges and or small sanding stick takes care of the
issue.
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside
would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the >calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch some
of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the >point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4
guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly
sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should
only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause,
back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older >watching the Sessions videos.
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG files
of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
AND there is https://labs.shapertools.com/.
That is good if you want very basic design features to create SVG files.
Hopefully you also got the workstation. I use the workstation 75% of
the time and is great for cutting box joints.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:41:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
wrote:
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside
would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the >calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch someIt was my retirement present to me. ;-)
of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the >point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4
guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly
sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should
only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause,
back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older >watching the Sessions videos.
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG filesYou need Sketchup Pro, I believe, to use plugins. I tried the online Sketchup. I won't live long enough to design anything with that. It's excruciatingly slow. I'm still using Sketchup-2017. I believe there
of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
are third party programs that will convert from .skp to .svt but I
haven't tried them. There are some, perhaps obvious, restrictions on
the shapes.
AND there is https://labs.shapertools.com/.
That is good if you want very basic design features to create SVG files.
Hopefully you also got the workstation. I use the workstation 75% ofYes, it was a package that came with some other stuff too. I bought it
the time and is great for cutting box joints.
when I knew I wouldn't have time to use it for a while, because of the package.
I have no lights in my shop right now so I have to get that fixed
first. Then the computer and TV. Everything is taking four times as
long as I expected it to. And then there is the creeping complexity
problem.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 09:03:46 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 7:01 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
As Bob pointed out the Origin dictates the direction of travel unless >making a pocket cut to clear/hollow out a section.And if the cut is the same width as the cutter?
In the early videos, by the Shaper guys, they often recommend cutting a >few "thousandths" shy of the finished shape. Then sneaking up on theI've seen that mentioned in the training videos.
final size for a smoother edge cut.
I think this is mostly to guard against bit chatter that may leave a
rough edge.
That said, I seldom do this as most of the wood that I work with doesI noticed that on DerbyDad's plugs. Routers don't seem to do this.
not fuzz out on the edges and or small sanding stick takes care of the >issue.
Have you tried a normal router bit in your Shaper?
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 09:03:46 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 7:01 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
As Bob pointed out the Origin dictates the direction of travel unless >making a pocket cut to clear/hollow out a section.And if the cut is the same width as the cutter?
In the early videos, by the Shaper guys, they often recommend cutting a >few "thousandths" shy of the finished shape. Then sneaking up on theI've seen that mentioned in the training videos.
final size for a smoother edge cut.
I think this is mostly to guard against bit chatter that may leave a
rough edge.
That said, I seldom do this as most of the wood that I work with doesI noticed that on DerbyDad's plugs. Routers don't seem to do this.
not fuzz out on the edges and or small sanding stick takes care of the >issue.
Have you tried a normal router bit in your Shaper?
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 09:03:46 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 7:01 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and then hammeredLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm
all the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard,
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
As Bob pointed out the Origin dictates the direction of travel unless
making a pocket cut to clear/hollow out a section.
And if the cut is the same width as the cutter?
In the early videos, by the Shaper guys, they often recommend cutting a
few "thousandths" shy of the finished shape. Then sneaking up on the
final size for a smoother edge cut.
I think this is mostly to guard against bit chatter that may leave a
rough edge.
I've seen that mentioned in the training videos.
That said, I seldom do this as most of the wood that I work with does
not fuzz out on the edges and or small sanding stick takes care of the
issue.
I noticed that on DerbyDad's plugs. Routers don't seem to do this.
Have you tried a normal router bit in your Shaper?
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:41:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
wrote:
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes. >>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside
would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the
calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch some
of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the
point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4
guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly
sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should
only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause,
back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older
watching the Sessions videos.
It was my retirement present to me. ;-)
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG files
of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
You need Sketchup Pro, I believe, to use plugins. I tried the online Sketchup. I won't live long enough to design anything with that. It's excruciatingly slow. I'm still using Sketchup-2017. I believe there
are third party programs that will convert from .skp to .svt but I
haven't tried them. There are some, perhaps obvious, restrictions on
the shapes.
AND there is https://labs.shapertools.com/.
That is good if you want very basic design features to create SVG files.
Hopefully you also got the workstation. I use the workstation 75% of
the time and is great for cutting box joints.
Yes, it was a package that came with some other stuff too. I bought it
when I knew I wouldn't have time to use it for a while, because of the package.
I have no lights in my shop right now so I have to get that fixed
first. Then the computer and TV. Everything is taking four times as
long as I expected it to. And then there is the creeping complexity
problem.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>>>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>>>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>>>> lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>>>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>>>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>> together).
so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works. >>>>> I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is >>>>> stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>> it's going to take a while.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60 or
There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
On 1/31/2022 3:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:41:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location >>>>>>>> of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside
would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the
calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch some
of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the >>> point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4
guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly
sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should
only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause,
back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older
watching the Sessions videos.
It was my retirement present to me. ;-)
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG files
of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
You need Sketchup Pro, I believe, to use plugins. I tried the online
Sketchup. I won't live long enough to design anything with that. It's
excruciatingly slow. I'm still using Sketchup-2017. I believe there
are third party programs that will convert from .skp to .svt but I
haven't tried them. There are some, perhaps obvious, restrictions on
the shapes.
You can probably use the plugin with a 2016 version of Sketchup. Before
they made you pay.
On Monday, January 31, 2022 at 3:55:09 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 09:03:46 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 7:01 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 14:48:46 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >> >>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >> >>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
the way to ripping the piece on the tablesaw.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >> >>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
As promised, I took a bunch of pictures. I hope these are helpful. I did not take time to add captions. Ask questions. Each picture represents a step in the process beginning with setting the workpiece in place on my DIY horizontal spoilboard, all
And if the cut is the same width as the cutter?
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gG9Gd2NGiwyh8
I see. I see you used a 1/4" bit (if I understand the Shaper) and it
looks like the cut is also 1/4". Would it be better to make the cut
slightly larger so there is no climb cut? Would taking off a few mils
on a second cut against the plug make it smoother?
Again, thanks for your help. I'm trying to visualize the operation.
As Bob pointed out the Origin dictates the direction of travel unless
making a pocket cut to clear/hollow out a section.
In the early videos, by the Shaper guys, they often recommend cutting aI've seen that mentioned in the training videos.
few "thousandths" shy of the finished shape. Then sneaking up on the
final size for a smoother edge cut.
I think this is mostly to guard against bit chatter that may leave a
rough edge.
That said, I seldom do this as most of the wood that I work with doesI noticed that on DerbyDad's plugs. Routers don't seem to do this.
not fuzz out on the edges and or small sanding stick takes care of the
issue.
Have you tried a normal router bit in your Shaper?
To which plugs of mine are you referring?
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>> On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>>>>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>>>>> lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>>>>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>>>>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>> together).
or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works. >>>>>> I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is >>>>>> stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>>> it's going to take a while.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60
There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I have the Dubbys but am not in love with the extension bars and or the
lack of a rule.
I have the Incra 1000HD but hate the fact that fine tuning the flip stop >throws the stop out of calibration.
I now have the Exact 90 and it could have been a bit better thought out
for use with the sacrificial fence. But that is me Monday morning >quarterbacking. I really like the rule and stop except for the fact
that when the stop is flipped up it changes position. Meaning do not
set the stop unless it is in the down position. And in the down
position it is a bit harder to read the scale. And I like the flop
stop, I can cut really wide/deep panels, compared to the Incra, and the >miter gauge and work remain in place and do not fall to the floor.
BUT THE Shaper Origin!!!! That is a great tool that gets better with >software upgrades.
The box joint feature is stupid simple and extremely accurate. You
simply tell the Origin how wide/tall the side of the box is and tell it
how many tails you want on "both" mating pieces. It does the math and >adjusts for the slots. You do not have to make the sides the
size/height, that a jig would dictate. You just have to make the slots
the same size or larger than the bit you are using.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 18:40:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 3:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:41:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside
would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the
calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch some >>>> of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the >>>> point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4
guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly >>>> sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should
only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause,
back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older
watching the Sessions videos.
It was my retirement present to me. ;-)
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG files >>>> of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
You need Sketchup Pro, I believe, to use plugins. I tried the online
Sketchup. I won't live long enough to design anything with that. It's
excruciatingly slow. I'm still using Sketchup-2017. I believe there
are third party programs that will convert from .skp to .svt but I
haven't tried them. There are some, perhaps obvious, restrictions on
the shapes.
You can probably use the plugin with a 2016 version of Sketchup. Before
they made you pay.
2017 was free too. I have both. I just looked, I have the
installation files for 2010 and 2012, too. ;-)
I noticed that the 3D Warehouse no longer works. Well, it works but
none of the models do.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>>>> On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>>>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>>>>>> lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>> together).
or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works. >>>>>>> I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is >>>>>>> stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>>>> it's going to take a while.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60
I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myThere are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, >>>>> cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means >>>> is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
...and I can't count the number of pencils I have. ;-)
I have the Dubbys but am not in love with the extension bars and or the
lack of a rule.
I thought you really liked them. My point was that they can be easily
made, though perhaps not quite so pretty.
I have the Incra 1000HD but hate the fact that fine tuning the flip stop
throws the stop out of calibration.
I have the 1000HD, as well. I also have the original JessEm
Mite-R-Excel gauge. Nice but it take a bit to get used to it.
<https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/03/01/mite-r-excel-miter-gauge-review>
I now have the Exact 90 and it could have been a bit better thought out
for use with the sacrificial fence. But that is me Monday morning
quarterbacking. I really like the rule and stop except for the fact
that when the stop is flipped up it changes position. Meaning do not
set the stop unless it is in the down position. And in the down
position it is a bit harder to read the scale. And I like the flop
stop, I can cut really wide/deep panels, compared to the Incra, and the
miter gauge and work remain in place and do not fall to the floor.
Not having to actually cut a miter makes the design of a miter gauge a
bit easier.
BUT THE Shaper Origin!!!! That is a great tool that gets better with
software upgrades.
The box joint feature is stupid simple and extremely accurate. You
simply tell the Origin how wide/tall the side of the box is and tell it
how many tails you want on "both" mating pieces. It does the math and
adjusts for the slots. You do not have to make the sides the
size/height, that a jig would dictate. You just have to make the slots
the same size or larger than the bit you are using.
It hasn't displaced at least one router?
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
On 1/31/2022 7:51 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 18:40:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 3:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:41:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the >>>>>>>>>> correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>> lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside
would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the
calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch some >>>>> of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the >>>>> point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4 >>>>> guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly >>>>> sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should >>>>> only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause, >>>>> back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older >>>>> watching the Sessions videos.
It was my retirement present to me. ;-)
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG files >>>>> of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
You need Sketchup Pro, I believe, to use plugins. I tried the online
Sketchup. I won't live long enough to design anything with that. It's >>>> excruciatingly slow. I'm still using Sketchup-2017. I believe there
are third party programs that will convert from .skp to .svt but I
haven't tried them. There are some, perhaps obvious, restrictions on
the shapes.
You can probably use the plugin with a 2016 version of Sketchup. Before >>> they made you pay.
2017 was free too. I have both. I just looked, I have the
installation files for 2010 and 2012, too. ;-)
I noticed that the 3D Warehouse no longer works. Well, it works but
none of the models do.
As you probably know, each new version of Sketchup changes the file
format.
Fortunately the current versions of Sketchup can save files in the
previous file version so that older version users can open files created
with the newer version of SU.
Clear as MUD?
Plug-ins should work though. I am using an ancient version of "Get >Dimensions" It is tricky to install but works like a champ. I have to
use a "Simple Install" Plug-in to install it. LOL
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>>>>>>> lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>> together).
or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works. >>>>>>>> I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is >>>>>>>> stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>>>>> it's going to take a while.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60
I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myThere are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both >>>> when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, >>>>>> cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means >>>>> is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
...and I can't count the number of pencils I have. ;-)
I have the Dubbys but am not in love with the extension bars and or the
lack of a rule.
I thought you really liked them. My point was that they can be easily
made, though perhaps not quite so pretty.
I still do for cutting accurate angles but the Incra and Exact 90 are
easier to suet up for repeat length cuts. I would not want to be with
out either one, the Dubby's.
I have the Incra 1000HD but hate the fact that fine tuning the flip stop >>> throws the stop out of calibration.
I have the 1000HD, as well. I also have the original JessEm
Mite-R-Excel gauge. Nice but it take a bit to get used to it.
<https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/03/01/mite-r-excel-miter-gauge-review>
Recently "The WoodWhisperer came out with a YouTube video comparing
several miter gauges.
He discusses what he likes and dislikes. He hates the Kreg. I had a
Kreg and was OK with it until the brass indexing pin seized in the
aluminum part. I did not put 2 + 2 together and did not realize that
the morning sunlight directly on the miter gauge would cause this issue.
I forced the indexing pin out. And that was the end of the miter gauge.
I now have the Exact 90 and it could have been a bit better thought out
for use with the sacrificial fence. But that is me Monday morning
quarterbacking. I really like the rule and stop except for the fact
that when the stop is flipped up it changes position. Meaning do not
set the stop unless it is in the down position. And in the down
position it is a bit harder to read the scale. And I like the flop
stop, I can cut really wide/deep panels, compared to the Incra, and the >>> miter gauge and work remain in place and do not fall to the floor.
Not having to actually cut a miter makes the design of a miter gauge a
bit easier.
YES! I had an issue with it in the beginning. MY FAULT! I was not
getting square cuts and it was an intermittent thing. I make my own >sacrificial fence and it sits flat on the TS top. It needs to be
elevated slightly to allow for saw dust and or slight tear out on the
stop end of the piece to fit into. I have not clearance so the dust and
tear out push out on that end of the work. And you guessed it, a non
square cut. Blowing the dust and raking the tear out off solved the issue.
BUT THE Shaper Origin!!!! That is a great tool that gets better with
software upgrades.
The box joint feature is stupid simple and extremely accurate. You
simply tell the Origin how wide/tall the side of the box is and tell it
how many tails you want on "both" mating pieces. It does the math and
adjusts for the slots. You do not have to make the sides the
size/height, that a jig would dictate. You just have to make the slots
the same size or larger than the bit you are using.
It hasn't displaced at least one router?
LOL. I have 2~3 routers that have displace the previous routers. But I >think I am down to 5 routers. I use 2 of them regularly, the other 3
not so much. I bought a Leigh DT jig probably 30 years ago and a Bosch >1617evs in 1998 IIRC, when they were first introduced. I bought that
router specifically to use with the Leigh jig. At the time it's micro
adjust was pretty unique.
The Origin has made the Leigh jig and it's Finger Joint template pretty
much obsolete.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm
lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (and
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>> together).
or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $60
There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is >>>>>> stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>>> it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, >>>> cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means >>> is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
...and I can't count the number of pencils I have. ;-)
I have the Dubbys but am not in love with the extension bars and or the >lack of a rule.I thought you really liked them. My point was that they can be easily
made, though perhaps not quite so pretty.
I have the Incra 1000HD but hate the fact that fine tuning the flip stop >throws the stop out of calibration.I have the 1000HD, as well. I also have the original JessEm
Mite-R-Excel gauge. Nice but it take a bit to get used to it.
<https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/03/01/mite-r-excel-miter-gauge-review> >I now have the Exact 90 and it could have been a bit better thought out >for use with the sacrificial fence. But that is me Monday morning >quarterbacking. I really like the rule and stop except for the fact
that when the stop is flipped up it changes position. Meaning do notNot having to actually cut a miter makes the design of a miter gauge a
set the stop unless it is in the down position. And in the down
position it is a bit harder to read the scale. And I like the flop
stop, I can cut really wide/deep panels, compared to the Incra, and the >miter gauge and work remain in place and do not fall to the floor.
bit easier.
BUT THE Shaper Origin!!!! That is a great tool that gets better with >software upgrades.It hasn't displaced at least one router?
The box joint feature is stupid simple and extremely accurate. You
simply tell the Origin how wide/tall the side of the box is and tell it >how many tails you want on "both" mating pieces. It does the math and >adjusts for the slots. You do not have to make the sides the
size/height, that a jig would dictate. You just have to make the slots
the same size or larger than the bit you are using.
On Monday, January 10, 2022 at 6:21:56 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
fun puzzle for you. I am sure everyone will score 100, but it may take a moment. There are five patches in this picture. Find them all.https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bobwhen I wrote this original post, it was triggered by a period of really bad mistakes on my part. I almost remade the frame I was working on, but I could not bear giving up on all that beautiful mahogany. I finished all the patches today. So here is a
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
Bob
On Monday, January 10, 2022 at 6:21:56 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
a fun puzzle for you. I am sure everyone will score 100, but it may take a moment. There are five patches in this picture. Find them all.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
when I wrote this original post, it was triggered by a period of really bad mistakes on my part. I almost remade the frame I was working on, but I could not bear giving up on all that beautiful mahogany. I finished all the patches today. So here is
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
Bob
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:13:28 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On 1/31/2022 7:51 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 18:40:29 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 3:08 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:41:44 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/27/2022 10:40 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place. >>>>>>>>>>> But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use >>>>>>>>> double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut >>>>>>>>> though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm x
I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outside >>>>>>> of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line >>>>>>> 6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess >>>>>>> that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the >>>>>>> lines.
More than likely he cut on the outside of the line. Cutting inside >>>>>> would mean that he would have had to take the cutter size into the >>>>>> calculation of the resulting size
Yes resaw.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that >>>>>>> make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't >>>>>>> used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play >>>>>>> time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
O M G 3 of us now? LOL. It is really easy to learn if you watch some >>>>>> of the early YouTube videos with Sam as the illustrator. He gets to the >>>>>> point. There are weekly videos called Sessions that are usually 3~4 >>>>>> guys involved in showing the capabilities of the Origin. I can hardly >>>>>> sit still watching that. It takes an hour for something that should >>>>>> only take about 10 minutes. With Sam you will likely have to pause, >>>>>> back up, and replay a few times but that is better than growing older >>>>>> watching the Sessions videos.
It was my retirement present to me. ;-)
FWIW there is a plug in for Sketchup that works for creating SVG files >>>>>> of your shapes. You do not need to learn Fusion 360.
You need Sketchup Pro, I believe, to use plugins. I tried the online >>>>> Sketchup. I won't live long enough to design anything with that. It's >>>>> excruciatingly slow. I'm still using Sketchup-2017. I believe there
are third party programs that will convert from .skp to .svt but I
haven't tried them. There are some, perhaps obvious, restrictions on >>>>> the shapes.
You can probably use the plugin with a 2016 version of Sketchup. Before >>>> they made you pay.
2017 was free too. I have both. I just looked, I have the
installation files for 2010 and 2012, too. ;-)
I noticed that the 3D Warehouse no longer works. Well, it works but
none of the models do.
As you probably know, each new version of Sketchup changes the file
format.
Fortunately the current versions of Sketchup can save files in the
previous file version so that older version users can open files created
with the newer version of SU.
I didn't know that. I can download from the 3D Warehouse into the web version, then convert back to '16 or '17? It would be the only
possible use for the web version. It's useless otherwise.
Clear as MUD?
Plug-ins should work though. I am using an ancient version of "Get
Dimensions" It is tricky to install but works like a champ. I have to
use a "Simple Install" Plug-in to install it. LOL
I'll have to see.
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a
x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole and thenDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are 6mm
and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the >>>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $
I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myI thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both >>>>> when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range ofI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>>>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>>>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is >>>>>>>>> stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>>>>>> it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, >>>>>>> cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means >>>>>> is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >>>>
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
I had to replace a few parts on the JessEm. The indexing pin was...and I can't count the number of pencils I have. ;-)
I have the Dubbys but am not in love with the extension bars and or the >>>> lack of a rule.
I thought you really liked them. My point was that they can be easily
made, though perhaps not quite so pretty.
I still do for cutting accurate angles but the Incra and Exact 90 are
easier to suet up for repeat length cuts. I would not want to be with
out either one, the Dubby's.
I have the Incra 1000HD but hate the fact that fine tuning the flip stop >>>> throws the stop out of calibration.
I have the 1000HD, as well. I also have the original JessEm
Mite-R-Excel gauge. Nice but it take a bit to get used to it.
<https://www.finewoodworking.com/2006/03/01/mite-r-excel-miter-gauge-review>
Recently "The WoodWhisperer came out with a YouTube video comparing
several miter gauges.
He discusses what he likes and dislikes. He hates the Kreg. I had a
Kreg and was OK with it until the brass indexing pin seized in the
aluminum part. I did not put 2 + 2 together and did not realize that
the morning sunlight directly on the miter gauge would cause this issue.
I forced the indexing pin out. And that was the end of the miter gauge. >>
pretty well corroded. Fortunately, JessEm is decent for parts.
I now have the Exact 90 and it could have been a bit better thought out >>>> for use with the sacrificial fence. But that is me Monday morning
quarterbacking. I really like the rule and stop except for the fact
that when the stop is flipped up it changes position. Meaning do not
set the stop unless it is in the down position. And in the down
position it is a bit harder to read the scale. And I like the flop
stop, I can cut really wide/deep panels, compared to the Incra, and the >>>> miter gauge and work remain in place and do not fall to the floor.
Not having to actually cut a miter makes the design of a miter gauge a
bit easier.
YES! I had an issue with it in the beginning. MY FAULT! I was not
getting square cuts and it was an intermittent thing. I make my own
sacrificial fence and it sits flat on the TS top. It needs to be
elevated slightly to allow for saw dust and or slight tear out on the
stop end of the piece to fit into. I have not clearance so the dust and
tear out push out on that end of the work. And you guessed it, a non
square cut. Blowing the dust and raking the tear out off solved the issue. >>
BUT THE Shaper Origin!!!! That is a great tool that gets better with >>>> software upgrades.
The box joint feature is stupid simple and extremely accurate. You
simply tell the Origin how wide/tall the side of the box is and tell it >>>> how many tails you want on "both" mating pieces. It does the math and >>>> adjusts for the slots. You do not have to make the sides the
size/height, that a jig would dictate. You just have to make the slots >>>> the same size or larger than the bit you are using.
It hasn't displaced at least one router?
LOL. I have 2~3 routers that have displace the previous routers. But I
think I am down to 5 routers. I use 2 of them regularly, the other 3
not so much. I bought a Leigh DT jig probably 30 years ago and a Bosch
1617evs in 1998 IIRC, when they were first introduced. I bought that
router specifically to use with the Leigh jig. At the time it's micro
adjust was pretty unique.
I counted mine the other day. Counting the Shaper, I'm at eight.
The Origin has made the Leigh jig and it's Finger Joint template pretty
much obsolete.
Dovetails? I haven't seen that done yet but I don't see why not. I
have the PC Omni-Jig aircraft carrier. I don't know how much use
it'll get now. I'm kinda pissed that there are no parts anywhere for
it (I believe it's a patent issue) but it might not matter anymore.
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>> On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry >>>>>>>>>>>>>> here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $
I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myI thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both >>>>>> when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >>>>>I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a >>>>>>>>>> Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the >>>>>>>>>> Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so >>>>>>>>>> it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, >>>>>>>> cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means >>>>>>> is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
$60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myI thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >>>>>
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
$60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>>>I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both >>>>>>>> when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >>>>>>>I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off.
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience (
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed. At $
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myI thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought both >>>>>>> when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >>>>>>I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler, >>>>>>>>> cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
On 2/3/2022 8:20 PM, Bob Davis wrote:Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com
wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on >>>>>>> sale.
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6,
k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6,I see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It >>>>>>>>>>>>> looks like a
DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> k...@notreal.com wrote:I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> small gap around
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:OHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> pictures that should answer your questions and more. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> enough experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> is becoming quite comfortable to use.
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> k...@notreal.com wrote:of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shape a line
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Leon wrote:Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> outside? Did you use
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> made a mistake using it, skip this topic. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> advice on improvements or alternative approaches. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> bit of the day repairing my mistakes. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> always mark the location
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> off one side until it is half the width of the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> and glue them together. Then I just put the wide >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the picture, I am using a SIPO domino which is an >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> almost perfect match for the mahogany piece. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> to describe what I did and hope it answers your >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> The dimensions I used are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> glue in the hole and then hammered the plug in. I used >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> a No. 4 smoothing plane to level it out, followed by a >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> hand scraper. I will do some more tests, playing with >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> the length of the plug. I'll try 25.25 mm next time. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inside or outside
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> shop
together).
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up >>>>>>>>>>>>>> and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut >>>>>>>>>>>>>> would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 >>>>>>>>>>>>>> degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC >>>>>>>>>>>>>> bits listed. At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain >>>>>>>>>>>>>> more insight into if and how well it works.
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just >>>>>>>>>>>>> ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there >>>>>>>>>>>>> are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on >>>>>>>>>>>>> order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use >>>>>>>>>>>> them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp >>>>>>>>>>>> industrial model.
 From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, >>>>>>>>>>> simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by >>>>>>>>>> no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>>>
bought both
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a >>>>>>>>> little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent
range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as >>>>>>>>> wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit >>>>>>>>> more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many >>>>>>>>> tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't >>>>>>>>> you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks
like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool
domino.
I totally agree! I am starting to see Woodpecker tools as quality built gadgets. I am not certain that their "gadgets" are needed. Now I will
say their squares and lay out story sticks are a pretty good investment.
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:mistakes.
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
(and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myI thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >> >>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >> >>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >> >>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >> >>>>>
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >> >>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >> >>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >> >>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismistakes.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> >>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> >>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >> >>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >> >>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >> >>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >> >>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >> >>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
On 2/3/2022 7:26 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:mistakes.
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
(and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>>There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Nope, the Domino is still way too easy and faster to use.
I will add that the Morty has adjustable stops for making elongated mortises. BUT that ends up being the initial cut and then adding the elongated smaller cut. AND that appears to make the cut to one side of
the first cut mortise, effectively moving the center of the elongated mortise. The Domino elongated mortises remain centered.
Why do you make elongated mortises? Elongating a mating mortise gives
you wiggle room, left or tight. The Morty, unless I am missing
something, only allows you to elongate the mortise on one end.
How often do I use the elongated mortise with the Domino? 99% of the
time and the adjustment from exact fit to elongated is the turn of the adjustment knob. I typically cut all of the exact fit mortises and then
cut all of the mating elongated mortises.
Cost of the Morty is $400, $600 for the equivalent set up to the Domino
500. Then you need to add up to 7 different size cutters and about $45
to $55 each.
Tenon stock is expensive for the Morty. I predominately use the 5mm
Festool tenons. I buy 1800 at a time for the best pricing. I have
bought 4 of these boxes since 2008. I have cut approximately 14,000
mortises with the single 5mm bit that came with the Domino.
The box of 1800, 5mm tenons, today costs $110. Each tenon is
approximately 1-3/16" long.
The Morty 5mm tennon stock comes in 31" lengths, in 10 packs, $24.
So, Festool 5mm, 1800 x 1-3/16" = 2137" of tenons for $110.
Morty 5mm, 31" x 10 = 310" for $24. The equivalent amount of Morty
tenon stock would cost approximately $165.
AND you have to cut every tenon to length with the Morty.
The Morty is probably a good tool if you do not need to cut very many floating tenon mortises.
I bought the Domino in 2008, IIRC, as a luxury item and hoping I would actually use it. Well I can say that almost every piece of furniture
that I have built have had a boat load of mortise and tenon joints.
More than 7,000.
The Domino 500 works almost exactly like a biscuit/plate joiner with at least the quality of a Lameo plate joiner. So the set up time is not
even a consideration. Speed probably could not be faster for one at a
time mortises.
So no, for me the Domino will always be in my shop.
I think because of the accuracy and ease of use the Domino has been used
way past my initial expectations. And has afforded me the ability to
produce these otherwise hard to produce joints with little to no more
effort over even using pocket hole screws.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 5:19:49 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:mistakes.
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> >> >>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> >> >>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >> >> >>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >> >> >>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >> >> >>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >> >> >>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >> >> >>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
Well, a ryobi table saw is cheaper than a sawstop industrial table saw, too. They both cut wood.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:31:02 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:mistakes.
On 2/3/2022 7:26 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> >>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myThere are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >> >>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >> >>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >> >>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >> >>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >> >>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >> >>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >> >>>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >> >>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >> >>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Nope, the Domino is still way too easy and faster to use.
I will add that the Morty has adjustable stops for making elongated
mortises. BUT that ends up being the initial cut and then adding the
elongated smaller cut. AND that appears to make the cut to one side of
the first cut mortise, effectively moving the center of the elongated
mortise. The Domino elongated mortises remain centered.
Why do you make elongated mortises? Elongating a mating mortise gives
you wiggle room, left or tight. The Morty, unless I am missing
something, only allows you to elongate the mortise on one end.
How often do I use the elongated mortise with the Domino? 99% of the
time and the adjustment from exact fit to elongated is the turn of the
adjustment knob. I typically cut all of the exact fit mortises and then
cut all of the mating elongated mortises.
Cost of the Morty is $400, $600 for the equivalent set up to the Domino
500. Then you need to add up to 7 different size cutters and about $45
to $55 each.
Tenon stock is expensive for the Morty. I predominately use the 5mm
Festool tenons. I buy 1800 at a time for the best pricing. I have
bought 4 of these boxes since 2008. I have cut approximately 14,000
mortises with the single 5mm bit that came with the Domino.
The box of 1800, 5mm tenons, today costs $110. Each tenon is
approximately 1-3/16" long.
The Morty 5mm tennon stock comes in 31" lengths, in 10 packs, $24.
So, Festool 5mm, 1800 x 1-3/16" = 2137" of tenons for $110.
Morty 5mm, 31" x 10 = 310" for $24. The equivalent amount of Morty
tenon stock would cost approximately $165.
AND you have to cut every tenon to length with the Morty.
The Morty is probably a good tool if you do not need to cut very many
floating tenon mortises.
I bought the Domino in 2008, IIRC, as a luxury item and hoping I would
actually use it. Well I can say that almost every piece of furniture
that I have built have had a boat load of mortise and tenon joints.
More than 7,000.
The Domino 500 works almost exactly like a biscuit/plate joiner with at
least the quality of a Lameo plate joiner. So the set up time is not
even a consideration. Speed probably could not be faster for one at a
time mortises.
So no, for me the Domino will always be in my shop.
I think because of the accuracy and ease of use the Domino has been used
way past my initial expectations. And has afforded me the ability to
produce these otherwise hard to produce joints with little to no more
effort over even using pocket hole screws.
In trying to do apples to apples comparison, I think we all overlooked that the Morty has no motor. You have to provide a router to work with it. It is not a complete package.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 9:21:42 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:mistakes.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:31:02 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/3/2022 7:26 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
listed. At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0. >>>>>>
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >> fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I bow to the wisdom and experience of all the senior woodworkers here.Nope, the Domino is still way too easy and faster to use.
I will add that the Morty has adjustable stops for making elongated mortises. BUT that ends up being the initial cut and then adding the elongated smaller cut. AND that appears to make the cut to one side of the first cut mortise, effectively moving the center of the elongated mortise. The Domino elongated mortises remain centered.
Why do you make elongated mortises? Elongating a mating mortise gives you wiggle room, left or tight. The Morty, unless I am missing something, only allows you to elongate the mortise on one end.
How often do I use the elongated mortise with the Domino? 99% of the time and the adjustment from exact fit to elongated is the turn of the adjustment knob. I typically cut all of the exact fit mortises and then cut all of the mating elongated mortises.
Cost of the Morty is $400, $600 for the equivalent set up to the Domino 500. Then you need to add up to 7 different size cutters and about $45 to $55 each.
Tenon stock is expensive for the Morty. I predominately use the 5mm Festool tenons. I buy 1800 at a time for the best pricing. I have
bought 4 of these boxes since 2008. I have cut approximately 14,000 mortises with the single 5mm bit that came with the Domino.
The box of 1800, 5mm tenons, today costs $110. Each tenon is approximately 1-3/16" long.
The Morty 5mm tennon stock comes in 31" lengths, in 10 packs, $24.
So, Festool 5mm, 1800 x 1-3/16" = 2137" of tenons for $110.
Morty 5mm, 31" x 10 = 310" for $24. The equivalent amount of Morty
tenon stock would cost approximately $165.
AND you have to cut every tenon to length with the Morty.
The Morty is probably a good tool if you do not need to cut very many floating tenon mortises.
I bought the Domino in 2008, IIRC, as a luxury item and hoping I would actually use it. Well I can say that almost every piece of furniture that I have built have had a boat load of mortise and tenon joints.
More than 7,000.
The Domino 500 works almost exactly like a biscuit/plate joiner with at least the quality of a Lameo plate joiner. So the set up time is not even a consideration. Speed probably could not be faster for one at a time mortises.
So no, for me the Domino will always be in my shop.
Well, you don't *need* a motor.I think because of the accuracy and ease of use the Domino has been used way past my initial expectations. And has afforded me the ability to produce these otherwise hard to produce joints with little to no more effort over even using pocket hole screws.In trying to do apples to apples comparison, I think we all overlooked that the Morty has no motor. You have to provide a router to work with it. It is not a complete package.
A brace and bit, along with a few chisels (and time) would get the job done. ;-)
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:31:02 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:mistakes.
On 2/3/2022 7:26 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >> fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Nope, the Domino is still way too easy and faster to use.
I will add that the Morty has adjustable stops for making elongated mortises. BUT that ends up being the initial cut and then adding the elongated smaller cut. AND that appears to make the cut to one side of
the first cut mortise, effectively moving the center of the elongated mortise. The Domino elongated mortises remain centered.
Why do you make elongated mortises? Elongating a mating mortise gives
you wiggle room, left or tight. The Morty, unless I am missing
something, only allows you to elongate the mortise on one end.
How often do I use the elongated mortise with the Domino? 99% of the
time and the adjustment from exact fit to elongated is the turn of the adjustment knob. I typically cut all of the exact fit mortises and then cut all of the mating elongated mortises.
Cost of the Morty is $400, $600 for the equivalent set up to the Domino 500. Then you need to add up to 7 different size cutters and about $45
to $55 each.
Tenon stock is expensive for the Morty. I predominately use the 5mm Festool tenons. I buy 1800 at a time for the best pricing. I have
bought 4 of these boxes since 2008. I have cut approximately 14,000 mortises with the single 5mm bit that came with the Domino.
The box of 1800, 5mm tenons, today costs $110. Each tenon is
approximately 1-3/16" long.
The Morty 5mm tennon stock comes in 31" lengths, in 10 packs, $24.
So, Festool 5mm, 1800 x 1-3/16" = 2137" of tenons for $110.
Morty 5mm, 31" x 10 = 310" for $24. The equivalent amount of Morty
tenon stock would cost approximately $165.
AND you have to cut every tenon to length with the Morty.
The Morty is probably a good tool if you do not need to cut very many floating tenon mortises.
I bought the Domino in 2008, IIRC, as a luxury item and hoping I would actually use it. Well I can say that almost every piece of furniture
that I have built have had a boat load of mortise and tenon joints.
More than 7,000.
The Domino 500 works almost exactly like a biscuit/plate joiner with at least the quality of a Lameo plate joiner. So the set up time is not
even a consideration. Speed probably could not be faster for one at a
time mortises.
So no, for me the Domino will always be in my shop.
I think because of the accuracy and ease of use the Domino has been used way past my initial expectations. And has afforded me the ability to produce these otherwise hard to produce joints with little to no more effort over even using pocket hole screws.In trying to do apples to apples comparison, I think we all overlooked that the Morty has no motor. You have to provide a router to work with it. It is not a complete package.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 5:19:49 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:mistakes.
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> >> >>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> >> >>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >> >> >>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >> >> >>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >> >> >>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >> >> >>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >> >> >>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
Well, a ryobi table saw is cheaper than a sawstop industrial table saw, too. They both cut wood.
On Fri, 4 Feb 2022 16:39:33 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismistakes.
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 5:19:49 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> >>
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> >> >>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
I clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino.
used are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in theDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
listed. At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >> >> >fast for what it does.I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at myThere are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >> >> >>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >> >> >>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >> >> >>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery.
Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands. >> >> >
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
It absolutely does. My previous saw was a Jet hybrid cabinet saw which was pretty good. The sawstop is ridgid, heavy, and all the bearings and cast parts are monstrous. This translates to glassy smooth, repeatable cuts that are hard to define unlessYa think? I remember their dowel press.
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
Well, a ryobi table saw is cheaper than a sawstop industrial table saw, too. They both cut wood.But does the Sawstop actually cut it any better than the Ryobi, or
just last longer and have a safety feature that many feel to be
excess.
On Fri, 4 Feb 2022 16:39:33 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismistakes.
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 5:19:49 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> >> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>> >>
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>> >> >>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>> >> >>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>> >> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
listed. At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>> >> >>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>> >> >>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told
(here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>> >> >>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a
KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's
rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>> >> >>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >>> >> >fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
Well, a ryobi table saw is cheaper than a sawstop industrial table saw, too. They both cut wood.
But does the Sawstop actually cut it any better than the Ryobi, or
just last longer and have a safety feature that many feel to be
excess.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 9:21:42 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:mistakes.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:31:02 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/3/2022 7:26 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> > >
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >> > >>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >> > >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeLooks pretty good. The side grain works really well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >> > >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h
Did you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you use
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends.
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >> > >>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's
flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >> > >>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC.
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >> > >>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all.
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of
dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >> > >>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >> > >>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >> > >> fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Nope, the Domino is still way too easy and faster to use.In trying to do apples to apples comparison, I think we all overlooked that the Morty has no motor. You have to provide a router to work with it. It is not a complete package.
I will add that the Morty has adjustable stops for making elongated
mortises. BUT that ends up being the initial cut and then adding the
elongated smaller cut. AND that appears to make the cut to one side of
the first cut mortise, effectively moving the center of the elongated
mortise. The Domino elongated mortises remain centered.
Why do you make elongated mortises? Elongating a mating mortise gives
you wiggle room, left or tight. The Morty, unless I am missing
something, only allows you to elongate the mortise on one end.
How often do I use the elongated mortise with the Domino? 99% of the
time and the adjustment from exact fit to elongated is the turn of the
adjustment knob. I typically cut all of the exact fit mortises and then
cut all of the mating elongated mortises.
Cost of the Morty is $400, $600 for the equivalent set up to the Domino
500. Then you need to add up to 7 different size cutters and about $45
to $55 each.
Tenon stock is expensive for the Morty. I predominately use the 5mm
Festool tenons. I buy 1800 at a time for the best pricing. I have
bought 4 of these boxes since 2008. I have cut approximately 14,000
mortises with the single 5mm bit that came with the Domino.
The box of 1800, 5mm tenons, today costs $110. Each tenon is
approximately 1-3/16" long.
The Morty 5mm tennon stock comes in 31" lengths, in 10 packs, $24.
So, Festool 5mm, 1800 x 1-3/16" = 2137" of tenons for $110.
Morty 5mm, 31" x 10 = 310" for $24. The equivalent amount of Morty
tenon stock would cost approximately $165.
AND you have to cut every tenon to length with the Morty.
The Morty is probably a good tool if you do not need to cut very many
floating tenon mortises.
I bought the Domino in 2008, IIRC, as a luxury item and hoping I would
actually use it. Well I can say that almost every piece of furniture
that I have built have had a boat load of mortise and tenon joints.
More than 7,000.
The Domino 500 works almost exactly like a biscuit/plate joiner with at
least the quality of a Lameo plate joiner. So the set up time is not
even a consideration. Speed probably could not be faster for one at a
time mortises.
So no, for me the Domino will always be in my shop.
I think because of the accuracy and ease of use the Domino has been used >> > way past my initial expectations. And has afforded me the ability to
produce these otherwise hard to produce joints with little to no more
effort over even using pocket hole screws.
Well, you don't *need* a motor.
A brace and bit, along with a few chisels (and time) would get the job done. ;-)
On Fri, 4 Feb 2022 16:39:33 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismistakes.
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 5:19:49 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>>> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop
together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >>>>>> fast for what it does.I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>>>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little
above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide
as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0. >>>>>>>>>>
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools
can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you?
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>>>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands. >>>>>>
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
Well, a ryobi table saw is cheaper than a sawstop industrial table saw, too. They both cut wood.
But does the Sawstop actually cut it any better than the Ryobi, or
just last longer and have a safety feature that many feel to be
excess.
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davismistakes.
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the hole andDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useI followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.Well, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used are
(and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough experience
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.BobI assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>>>>I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0.There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more. >>>>>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and
fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 9:21:42 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:mistakes.
On Friday, February 4, 2022 at 12:31:02 PM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 2/3/2022 7:26 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>>>>>There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0. >>>>>>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >>>>> fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
Nope, the Domino is still way too easy and faster to use.In trying to do apples to apples comparison, I think we all overlooked that the Morty has no motor. You have to provide a router to work with it. It is not a complete package.
I will add that the Morty has adjustable stops for making elongated
mortises. BUT that ends up being the initial cut and then adding the
elongated smaller cut. AND that appears to make the cut to one side of
the first cut mortise, effectively moving the center of the elongated
mortise. The Domino elongated mortises remain centered.
Why do you make elongated mortises? Elongating a mating mortise gives
you wiggle room, left or tight. The Morty, unless I am missing
something, only allows you to elongate the mortise on one end.
How often do I use the elongated mortise with the Domino? 99% of the
time and the adjustment from exact fit to elongated is the turn of the
adjustment knob. I typically cut all of the exact fit mortises and then
cut all of the mating elongated mortises.
Cost of the Morty is $400, $600 for the equivalent set up to the Domino
500. Then you need to add up to 7 different size cutters and about $45
to $55 each.
Tenon stock is expensive for the Morty. I predominately use the 5mm
Festool tenons. I buy 1800 at a time for the best pricing. I have
bought 4 of these boxes since 2008. I have cut approximately 14,000
mortises with the single 5mm bit that came with the Domino.
The box of 1800, 5mm tenons, today costs $110. Each tenon is
approximately 1-3/16" long.
The Morty 5mm tennon stock comes in 31" lengths, in 10 packs, $24.
So, Festool 5mm, 1800 x 1-3/16" = 2137" of tenons for $110.
Morty 5mm, 31" x 10 = 310" for $24. The equivalent amount of Morty
tenon stock would cost approximately $165.
AND you have to cut every tenon to length with the Morty.
The Morty is probably a good tool if you do not need to cut very many
floating tenon mortises.
I bought the Domino in 2008, IIRC, as a luxury item and hoping I would
actually use it. Well I can say that almost every piece of furniture
that I have built have had a boat load of mortise and tenon joints.
More than 7,000.
The Domino 500 works almost exactly like a biscuit/plate joiner with at
least the quality of a Lameo plate joiner. So the set up time is not
even a consideration. Speed probably could not be faster for one at a
time mortises.
So no, for me the Domino will always be in my shop.
I think because of the accuracy and ease of use the Domino has been used >>> way past my initial expectations. And has afforded me the ability to
produce these otherwise hard to produce joints with little to no more
effort over even using pocket hole screws.
Well, you don't *need* a motor.
A brace and bit, along with a few chisels (and time) would get the job done. ;-)
On Tuesday, February 1, 2022 at 9:08:52 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Monday, January 10, 2022 at 6:21:56 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
fun puzzle for you. I am sure everyone will score 100, but it may take a moment. There are five patches in this picture. Find them all.https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bobwhen I wrote this original post, it was triggered by a period of really bad mistakes on my part. I almost remade the frame I was working on, but I could not bear giving up on all that beautiful mahogany. I finished all the patches today. So here is a
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
BobNow step back to the standard viewing position and take another picture.
How do they look from where most people would be standing?
On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 10:31:20 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Tuesday, February 1, 2022 at 9:08:52 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote: >>> On Monday, January 10, 2022 at 6:21:56 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
fun puzzle for you. I am sure everyone will score 100, but it may take a moment. There are five patches in this picture. Find them all.when I wrote this original post, it was triggered by a period of really bad mistakes on my part. I almost remade the frame I was working on, but I could not bear giving up on all that beautiful mahogany. I finished all the patches today. So here is a
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
mostly covered by a piano hinge so I did not bother remaking them.Now step back to the standard viewing position and take another picture.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
Bob
How do they look from where most people would be standing?
I added a photo taken from 2 feet away. they look better. You will also see two prominent hole plugs in the upper left part of the picture. My drill press was set too fast and I burned the plugs. These are going to be on the back side of the easel,
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
On 2/4/2022 5:19 PM, krw@notreal.com wrote:mistakes.
On Thu, 3 Feb 2022 18:20:35 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, February 3, 2022 at 7:27:06 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Wed, 2 Feb 2022 16:54:55 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>
On 2/1/2022 7:27 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Tue, 1 Feb 2022 14:55:22 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote: >>>>>>
On 2/1/2022 12:44 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 19:01:43 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/31/2022 2:48 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Mon, 31 Jan 2022 08:53:34 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> >>>>>>>>>> wrote:
On 1/28/2022 10:18 PM, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 17:49:38 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 7:07:20 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 28 Jan 2022 10:34:11 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 10:27:35 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Friday, January 28, 2022 at 6:53:46 AM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 10:40:25 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 17:57:29 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Thursday, January 27, 2022 at 7:32:58 PM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 27 Jan 2022 12:24:23 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> <wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:
On Tuesday, January 11, 2022 at 11:57:30 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:
On 1/10/2022 6:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my
clamp a domino in my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I
are 6mm x 25 mm with 3mm radius ends. I cut 1/4" deep in a 3/4" thick piece of mahogany. Then I ripped it on the table saw to retrieve the wood plug. I touched it up with a sanding block. It was a tight fit for the hole. I put a little glue in the holeDid you define a line 8mm (Domino) wide then cut outside? Did you useWell, I don't recall making this mistake as I always mark the location
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Bob
of the mortise on the wood with the pieces set correctly in place.
But with in excess of 10K mortises I may have forgotten a few mistakes.
Now that you have a Shaper Origin, make a plug with the grain in the
correct orientation/direction.
That can be easily done with the onboard rectangle setup.
I followed up on Leon's suggestion to use the Shaper Origin to make a wood plug. It worked pretty well.
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0g5cLqfNn9m6h >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Looks pretty good. The side grain works really well. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
double stick tape on the back to keep it all in place or not cut
though and separate later?
I'm not sure I followed your thoughts, but I will try to describe what I did and hope it answers your questions.
I defined a rectangle with semicircle ends in the shaper origin. As a starting point, I just measured the length of the hole with a caliper. It was for a 6 mm wide domino, so that was what I used as the width. The dimensions I used
experience (and lots of mistakes) that the tool is becoming quite comfortable to use.I guess what I was asking is whether you cut on the inside or outsideOHHHH! Now I understand! I am going to take a series of pictures that should answer your questions and more. That will come later today. It's taken a few weeks, but I finally developed what I call "shaper brain". I have enough
of your shape. I was thinking that you could make your shape a line
6mm wide and ?? long. Then cut on the outside of that shape. I guess
that wouldn't give the proper radius on the ends. >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
What I was really wanted to know if you were cutting inside the
rectangle (line), on the line, or outside. You answered this; the
rectangle is the size of the Domino and you're cutting outside the
lines.
Since you were making the cut on the face of the board, doesn't that
make the cut a resaw? I'm just trying to understand the geometry
here.
I'm trying to understand the Shaper more. I bought one but haven't
used it yet. After I get the power back on in my shop, it'll be play
time for a while (then back to cleaning and putting the shop >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> together).
At $60 or so apiece, I would like to gain more insight into if and how well it works.I assume that the shaper can make a tapered cut. I see a small gap around
Bob
the plug. Wouldn't a tapered plug that extends above the surface fill that
gap once it's planed/sanded down?
A tapered cut would be ideal. The origin is limited to up and down router bit movement. To achieve a tapered cut would require a 1/4" shank bit with a taper around 3 degrees or less. I have no experience with this. I see CNC bits listed.
Woodpeckers+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_campaign=Production+Update+Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig&utm_content=Morty+Loose+Tenon+Joinery+Jig>How about this? (Kinda looks like a Mortise Pal.)I thought it was too but I looked it up, $229. I looked back at my >>>>>>>> paperwork from last year and I paid $209, which may have been on sale. >>>>>>>>>There are two KerfMakers, the original and a larger one. I bought bothI see you have the JessEm Clearcut TS on your fence. It looks like a
Biesemeyer on a Unisaw? That's the setup I have and just ordered the
Clearcut from the local Woodcraft. It's on sale and there are none is
stock anywhere. The sales guy said they have 350 of them on order so
it's going to take a while.
I've had the guides on my tablesaw for almost 3 years. I use them for almost every rip cut. My tablesaw is a sawstop 3 hp industrial model.
From that angle they looked similar. Is that the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>>>> flip-stop fence flip on there too? I ordered one when I was told >>>>>>>>>>>> (here) that it could do what a Bridge City KerfMaker can do, simpler,
cheaper, and all the other things it'll do.
It can be used to work like the BridgeCity Kerfmaker but is by no means
is cheaper.
The Original smaller Bridge City Kerfmaker is around $59 IIRC. >>>>>>>>>>>
And FWIW there are countless YouTube videos showing how to make a >>>>>>>>>>> KerfMaker in your shop for practically no investment at all. >>>>>>>>>>>
when they came out and I remember they were about $100, one a little >>>>>>>>>> above and one a little below. Both are needed for a decent range of >>>>>>>>>> dados. The Woodpecker's fence flip-stop can make them nearly as wide >>>>>>>>>> as the saw plus table. ;-) I didn't remember what the Woodpecker's >>>>>>>>>> rip-flip, or whatever it's called, cost but it's $229, so a bit more.
I thought the WoodPecker flip stop for the TS was $100. :~0. >>>>>>>>>
Two actually, left and right, since about 2000.
Certainly KerfMakers can be made by copying the original. Many tools >>>>>>>>>> can be made once you see how they work. You have a Dubby, don't you? >>>>>>>>>
A lot of my tools are becoming redundant.
I hear that. I have a Mortise Pal for doing floating tenon joinery. >>>>>>>> Nice idea but there are far easier ways to do it now.
<https://www.woodmagazine.com/review/joinery-tools-jigs/doweling-mortising-jigs/mortise-pal-mortising-jig>
Well now you have the Origin!
I'm sure you can find someone to take your Domino off your hands.
No, It will be replaced if it wears out. It is still way too easy and >>>>> fast for what it does.
<https://www.woodpeck.com/morty-loose-tenon-jig.html?trk_msg=HJ6RKN10LO4K9A9LN4JVJ0QJJ8&trk_contact=KQTSG16SEK63VR876LV4HQS4NS&trk_sid=FJ5P65AF162V24D2V6UFN8HA7G&trk_link=CUAQU4VG8OF4NB696KIE607RI0&utm_source=listrak&utm_medium=email&utm_term=
I think woodpecker's is getting desparate for new ideas. It looks like very limited, if not clumsy applications compared to a Festool domino.
Ya think? I remember their dowel press.
Yes! I thought it was an April Fool's spoof.
OTOH, at $600 it is cheaper than a Domino.
;~)
On 2/6/2022 1:22 PM, Bob Davis wrote:workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 10:31:20 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Tuesday, February 1, 2022 at 9:08:52 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, January 10, 2022 at 6:21:56 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in my
a fun puzzle for you. I am sure everyone will score 100, but it may take a moment. There are five patches in this picture. Find them all.when I wrote this original post, it was triggered by a period of really bad mistakes on my part. I almost remade the frame I was working on, but I could not bear giving up on all that beautiful mahogany. I finished all the patches today. So here is
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bob
mostly covered by a piano hinge so I did not bother remaking them.Now step back to the standard viewing position and take another picture. >>>
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
Bob
How do they look from where most people would be standing?
I added a photo taken from 2 feet away. they look better. You will also see two prominent hole plugs in the upper left part of the picture. My drill press was set too fast and I burned the plugs. These are going to be on the back side of the easel,
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
Most people probably will not see the plugs and a woodworker will likely >think this was intentional. And 40 years you will not remember. ;~)
On Wednesday, February 2, 2022 at 10:31:20 AM UTC-6, DerbyDad03 wrote:my workbench front vice and use a hand plane to cut off one side until it is half the width of the wide slot. I make a second identical "half domino" and glue them together. Then I just put the wide domino into the wide slot and finish it off. In the
On Tuesday, February 1, 2022 at 9:08:52 PM UTC-5, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:
On Monday, January 10, 2022 at 6:21:56 PM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:
If you own a festook domino tool and have never made a mistake using it, skip this topic.
I am describing how I repair a domino slot that was cut in the wrong place and would love to hear advice on improvements or alternative approaches. I screw up regularly and sometimes spend a good bit of the day repairing my mistakes.
The mistake in the pictures is a wide slot cut on the wrong side of the workpiece. If its a regular domino slot, I just glue in a domino, cut off the excess and sand it smooth. For the wide slot, I have to make a wide domino. I clamp a domino in
a fun puzzle for you. I am sure everyone will score 100, but it may take a moment. There are five patches in this picture. Find them all.https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGAfJVYGQv4Qt
Bobwhen I wrote this original post, it was triggered by a period of really bad mistakes on my part. I almost remade the frame I was working on, but I could not bear giving up on all that beautiful mahogany. I finished all the patches today. So here is
mostly covered by a piano hinge so I did not bother remaking them.https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
BobNow step back to the standard viewing position and take another picture.
How do they look from where most people would be standing?I added a photo taken from 2 feet away. they look better. You will also see two prominent hole plugs in the upper left part of the picture. My drill press was set too fast and I burned the plugs. These are going to be on the back side of the easel,
https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGsCn7GGJtt2Z
I don't remember who did it (Lee Valley?) but one of the companies did
an April Fools joke, selling a tape measure with no markings. The
spoof was on them. They sold tons of them. People used them as "story-tapes".
krw@notreal.com wrote in
news:r9m00h5mgdfrbfjk2fsarcvhrl67hrqgaa@4ax.com:
I don't remember who did it (Lee Valley?) but one of the companies did
an April Fools joke, selling a tape measure with no markings. The
spoof was on them. They sold tons of them. People used them as
"story-tapes".
My favorite April Fool's joke. My SISTER, who wouldn't know who Lee Valley is (or even if he's part of the Four Seasons), bought several of them as gifts.
Puckdropper
On 2/10/2022 4:21 PM, Puckdropper wrote:
k...@notreal.com wrote in
news:r9m00h5mgdfrbfjk2...@4ax.com:
I don't remember who did it (Lee Valley?) but one of the companies did
an April Fools joke, selling a tape measure with no markings. The
spoof was on them. They sold tons of them. People used them as
"story-tapes".
My favorite April Fool's joke. My SISTER, who wouldn't know who Lee Valley is (or even if he's part of the Four Seasons), bought several of them as gifts.
PuckdropperFranky and Lee were great!
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