• Kitchen cabinet doors

    From Aoli@21:1/5 to All on Fri Jan 7 10:18:56 2022
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back or
    a some other eas to fabricate way. Suggestions please.

    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw. 45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Thank you.

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  • From Just Wondering@21:1/5 to Aoli on Fri Jan 7 11:36:53 2022
    On 1/7/2022 11:18 AM, Aoli wrote:
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back or
    a some other eas to fabricate way.  Suggestions please.

    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw.  45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Thank you.

    I think if you have to ask that many questions, the job is
    beyond your current skill level.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Just Wondering@21:1/5 to Just Wondering on Fri Jan 7 12:15:32 2022
    On 1/7/2022 11:36 AM, Just Wondering wrote:
    On 1/7/2022 11:18 AM, Aoli wrote:
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back
    or a some other eas to fabricate way.  Suggestions please.

    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw.  45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Thank you.

    I think if you have to ask that many questions, the job is
    beyond your current skill level.

    First purchase should be a decent book on cabinet making. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cabinetry+book&crid=1OEJI1LZZPFDY&sprefix=cabinetry%2Caps%2C118&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_9

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  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Just Wondering on Fri Jan 7 11:36:35 2022
    On Friday, January 7, 2022 at 2:15:36 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
    On 1/7/2022 11:36 AM, Just Wondering wrote:
    On 1/7/2022 11:18 AM, Aoli wrote:
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back
    or a some other eas to fabricate way. Suggestions please.

    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw. 45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Thank you.

    I think if you have to ask that many questions, the job is
    beyond your current skill level.
    First purchase should be a decent book on cabinet making. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=cabinetry+book&crid=1OEJI1LZZPFDY&sprefix=cabinetry%2Caps%2C118&ref=nb_sb_ss_ts-doa-p_3_9

    You should have led with that.

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  • From DerbyDad03@21:1/5 to Just Wondering on Fri Jan 7 11:35:59 2022
    On Friday, January 7, 2022 at 1:36:57 PM UTC-5, Just Wondering wrote:
    On 1/7/2022 11:18 AM, Aoli wrote:
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back or
    a some other eas to fabricate way. Suggestions please.

    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw. 45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Thank you.
    I think if you have to ask that many questions, the job is
    beyond your current skill level.

    Dream crusher.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Aoli on Fri Jan 7 14:45:18 2022
    On 1/7/2022 12:18 PM, Aoli wrote:
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back or
    a some other eas to fabricate way.  Suggestions please.

    I have probably built several hundred cabinet doors and drawers.
    When putting glass in a door I build the door with a rabbet on the
    inside back edge for the rails and stiles. I paint or varnish the door
    frame and then my glass guy uses a clear caulk adhesive inside the
    rabbet. Then he drops the glass in and he is done. Adding a slot to
    the top rail simply complicates the whole process.




    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    Glass will be much more scratch resistant and easier to clean. I would
    go with tempered glass to resist easy breakage. A textured glass like
    Flemish can add look good.

    Here is what I am talking about. This is Flemish glass that distorts
    the focus of what is behind it. And shows the glass fitting inside the
    rabbet.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6485169773/in/dateposted/

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6485171439/in/photostream/


    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    As stated above, finish the doors however you like and then add the
    glass with the proper clear adhesive. If the glass gets broken your
    glass guy or you can remove the broken glass with out any complicated
    reapair to the door.




    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    That depends how much cleaning of the doors you will be doing. For
    kitchen doors I typically apply General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. A good
    quality foam brush, think Wooster brand. Works shockingly well. Do not overwork the finish. Just get it on there and let it settle out. When
    dry if the surface is rough you can wrap a piece of paper around a block
    of wood and rub the surface a few light strokes. The surface will
    smooth out with little effort.




    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw.  45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    I do not use any of the above stated tools to build Shaker style doors.
    I only use rail and stile bits in a router table. 90% of the doors
    that I build are Shaker style, see the above links. I do it all on the
    table saw with a dado set for the corner lap joints. I try to avoid 45
    mitered corners. Those are weak.



    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Well pretty much all of them assuming the non soft close version is easy
    to install. Soft close does not add any difficulty over the non self
    close version. Again I pretty much only use Euro style face frame
    hinges in bulk a hundred at a time. BUT with Euro hinges you will need
    a way to drill a 35mm/1-3/8" hole 1/2" deep on the back of the door stile.

    I buy this hinge, but not at this supplier.
    Blum COMPACT 1/2" Overlay Wrap Around Screw-On Hinge
    Model:38N355C.08

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850



    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Any wood that is in the hardwood family.
    Oak, Walnut, Cherry and or Poplar if you plan to paint. All of the
    above can be stained and varnished and or simply varnished for a nicer
    look. Be certain to get flat and straight stock.



    Thank you.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Leon on Fri Jan 7 15:08:11 2022
    On 1/7/2022 2:45 PM, Leon wrote:


    I buy this hinge, but not at this supplier.
    Blum COMPACT 1/2" Overlay Wrap Around Screw-On Hinge
    Model:38N355C.08

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850



    Let me clarify here. The hinge at the link above is not soft close but
    the soft close version fits and installs exactly the same way.

    I would advise to go to the Blum website to get the correct model model
    of the hinge you want if you go with a face frame Euro style hinge.


    Here is the soft close version of the hinge that I buy and from this
    company.

    https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-compact-38n-face-frame-hinges-side-mnt-overlay-1-2.html

    Note once logged in they typically offer a bulk price break. IIRC a box
    of 50 gets a pretty good discount over the single hinge price.

    ALSO if you buy 52 hinges, you get the bulk pricing on the box of 50 and
    you pay full price for the 2 extra. Something to keep in mind. You
    will need a minimum of 40 hinges for 20 doors. A box of 50 might be
    less expensive than 40 singles.

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Leon@21:1/5 to Leon on Fri Jan 7 15:18:50 2022
    On 1/7/2022 3:08 PM, Leon wrote:
    On 1/7/2022 2:45 PM, Leon wrote:


    I buy this hinge, but not at this supplier.
    Blum COMPACT 1/2" Overlay Wrap Around Screw-On Hinge
    Model:38N355C.08

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850



    Let me clarify here.  The hinge at the link above is not soft close but
    the soft close version fits and installs exactly the same way.

    I would advise to go to the Blum website to get the correct model model
    of the hinge you want if you go with a face frame Euro style hinge.


    Here is the soft close version of the hinge that I buy and from this
    company.

    https://www.woodworkerexpress.com/blum-compact-38n-face-frame-hinges-side-mnt-overlay-1-2.html


    Note once logged in they typically offer a bulk price break.  IIRC a box
    of 50 gets a pretty good discount over the single hinge price.

    ALSO if you buy 52 hinges, you get the bulk pricing on the box of 50 and
    you pay full price for the 2 extra.  Something to keep in mind.  You
    will need a minimum of 40 hinges for 20 doors.  A box of 50 might be
    less expensive than 40 singles.


    Ok, I do not buy from the above site, again. Sorry.

    Woodworkers Hardware is who I normally buy from. They give volume
    discounts.

    wwhardware.com

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  • From krw@notreal.com@21:1/5 to Leon on Fri Jan 7 16:57:57 2022
    On Fri, 7 Jan 2022 14:45:18 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

    On 1/7/2022 12:18 PM, Aoli wrote:
    I want to replace my 20 kitchen cabinet doors.

    I plan to put a top drop in slot for a window or inset from the back or
    a some other eas to fabricate way. Suggestions please.

    I have probably built several hundred cabinet doors and drawers.
    When putting glass in a door I build the door with a rabbet on the
    inside back edge for the rails and stiles. I paint or varnish the door
    frame and then my glass guy uses a clear caulk adhesive inside the
    rabbet. Then he drops the glass in and he is done. Adding a slot to
    the top rail simply complicates the whole process.




    No sure if glass or Lexan (polycarbonate).
    I am not concerned about the utmost best looks.
    No knobs.

    Glass will be much more scratch resistant and easier to clean. I would
    go with tempered glass to resist easy breakage. A textured glass like >Flemish can add look good.

    Tempered glass may save a finger or an arm (sorta like a SawStop ;-).
    Glass has a habit of breaking into large, knife-edged chunks, which
    can (do) fall slicing anything in their path. My wife ran through a
    glass window when she was a kid. The ER doctor stopped counting at
    100 stitches.

    Tempered glass "explodes" into a billion little "B-Bs", none with
    enough energy to cut skin. It's used for side windows in cars which
    is they you see all the little pieces of glass after an accident.
    Tempered glass is now building code for exterior doors (likely windows
    now too). Hundreds of accidents like my wife's are the reason why.

    Here is what I am talking about. This is Flemish glass that distorts
    the focus of what is behind it. And shows the glass fitting inside the >rabbet.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6485169773/in/dateposted/

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/lcb11211/6485171439/in/photostream/


    I wood like to see the wood grain so I plan a whitewash.
    Do not care about type of wood.

    As stated above, finish the doors however you like and then add the
    glass with the proper clear adhesive. If the glass gets broken your
    glass guy or you can remove the broken glass with out any complicated
    reapair to the door.




    What finish would be good enough but easy to apply.

    That depends how much cleaning of the doors you will be doing. For
    kitchen doors I typically apply General Finishes Arm-R-Seal. A good
    quality foam brush, think Wooster brand. Works shockingly well. Do not >overwork the finish. Just get it on there and let it settle out. When
    dry if the surface is rough you can wrap a piece of paper around a block
    of wood and rub the surface a few light strokes. The surface will
    smooth out with little effort.




    I have a few tools to work with. Router, radial arm saw. 45 deg jig.

    What other tools should I invest in.

    I do not use any of the above stated tools to build Shaker style doors.
    I only use rail and stile bits in a router table. 90% of the doors
    that I build are Shaker style, see the above links. I do it all on the
    table saw with a dado set for the corner lap joints. I try to avoid 45 >mitered corners. Those are weak.



    Which soft close hinges are easy to install ?

    Well pretty much all of them assuming the non soft close version is easy
    to install. Soft close does not add any difficulty over the non self
    close version. Again I pretty much only use Euro style face frame
    hinges in bulk a hundred at a time. BUT with Euro hinges you will need
    a way to drill a 35mm/1-3/8" hole 1/2" deep on the back of the door stile.

    I buy this hinge, but not at this supplier.
    Blum COMPACT 1/2" Overlay Wrap Around Screw-On Hinge
    Model:38N355C.08

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850

    https://www.build.com/product/summary/185436?uid=1672850



    Most important:
    What wood would be the best to work with.

    Any wood that is in the hardwood family.
    Oak, Walnut, Cherry and or Poplar if you plan to paint. All of the
    above can be stained and varnished and or simply varnished for a nicer
    look. Be certain to get flat and straight stock.



    Thank you.


    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)