One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that
was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be
slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly
right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are
the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

Good job.

More importantly for me, what is the diameter of the holes in your work bench? If an inch, where did you get your holdfasts and what might be todays price, if they are still available from your source?
I've looked for (preferred) 7/8" diameter holdfasts and can't find any. Had a local blacksmith "try" to make some, but that asshole simply can't follow instructions, specs, profiles, etc. I'd appreciate any good leads to decent Sheppard's hook
holdfasts. Otherwise, why don't you just send me yours.... I want 4 of them.

Sonny

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
(in article<47059878-42cf-4948-a058-fc1f86c9370bn@googlegroups.com>):

I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.

Bob,

One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw
into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into
the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held screwdriver.
A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for years...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDHQQCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image ?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Joe

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 4:47:49 AM UTC-6, 10x wrote:

On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
(in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):

I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.

Bob,

One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held screwdriver.
A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for years...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDHQQCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image
?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the great tips, as well as the source for the beeswax.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 9:06:24 PM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

Good job.

More importantly for me, what is the diameter of the holes in your work bench? If an inch, where did you get your holdfasts and what might be todays price, if they are still available from your source?
I've looked for (preferred) 7/8" diameter holdfasts and can't find any. Had a local blacksmith "try" to make some, but that asshole simply can't follow instructions, specs, profiles, etc. I'd appreciate any good leads to decent Sheppard's hook

holdfasts. Otherwise, why don't you just send me yours.... I want 4 of them.

Sonny

Sonny, I wish I could help. The holes in my bench are 3/4". All of the hardware used with these holes came from Leevalley. I've never seen 7/8" hardware. If I do, I will post it here.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 9:06:24 PM UTC-6, Sonny wrote:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

Good job.

More importantly for me, what is the diameter of the holes in your work bench? If an inch, where did you get your holdfasts and what might be todays price, if they are still available from your source?
I've looked for (preferred) 7/8" diameter holdfasts and can't find any. Had a local blacksmith "try" to make some, but that asshole simply can't follow instructions, specs, profiles, etc. I'd appreciate any good leads to decent Sheppard's hook

holdfasts. Otherwise, why don't you just send me yours.... I want 4 of them.

Sonny

This looks like what you describe:

https://www.amazon.com/Large-woodworking-holdfast-benchdog-hole/dp/B07PBCFTY5

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro= >te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 12/31/2021 6:20 AM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 4:47:49 AM UTC-6, 10x wrote:

On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
(in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):

I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I >>> was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.

Bob,

One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw >> into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into >> the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
screwdriver.
A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for >> years...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HDHQQCE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image
?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Joe

Joe,

Thanks for the great tips, as well as the source for the beeswax.

Bob

Yes! using steel screws of the same size, to prethread, is preferred to
having the brass screws do the work.
And any wax will do. I use Briwax, expensive, but I always have it
around for ummmm, waxing wood surfaces.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 5:47:49 AM UTC-5, 10x wrote:

On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
(in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):

I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I
was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.

Bob,

One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held screwdriver.
A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for years...

Grandpa always soaped his screws. When he passed I inherited most of his
tools. I opened a small wooden box of drill bits and found the last chunk of soap he had been using, all marked up with grooves from the screws he swiped across it.

I used it until I barely hold onto the sliver any more.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 12/31/2021 12:35 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 5:47:49 AM UTC-5, 10x wrote:

On Dec 30, 2021, Bob Davis wrote
(in article<47059878-42cf-4948...@googlegroups.com>):

I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid.
These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole that was too small for the teak
hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I >>> was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure.

Bob,

One of the tricks I picked up over the years is to run a small steel screw >> into the hole first after drilling the pilot hole. It will cut threads into >> the wood for you, and is a lot less likely to twist off using a hand held
screwdriver.
A little bit of softened beeswax will also help quite a bit. I ordered a
smallar of Murray’s Beeswax from Amazon for $4.50. That jar will last for >> years...

Grandpa always soaped his screws. When he passed I inherited most of his tools. I opened a small wooden box of drill bits and found the last chunk of soap he had been using, all marked up with grooves from the screws he swiped across it.

I used it until I barely hold onto the sliver any more.

Yes soap works well too. BUT soap has water in it and in some cases
will react with the steel and the wood, rust.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 7:58:58 AM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wrote:

This looks like what you describe:

https://www.amazon.com/Large-woodworking-holdfast-benchdog-hole/dp/B07PBCFTY5

Bob

Thanks Bob. I placed an order.

Sonny

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole

that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to
be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed exactly

right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are

the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro= >te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Thanks. I don't have a 1/4" plug cutter. 5/16" would have been too large for this fix. I ordered a 1/4" plug cutter for the next mistake I make. :-)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole

that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be
slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are

the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you
know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the
existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the

existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 12:14:59 AM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:

On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the

existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

Yes, I understand the strength issues. Apparently, I am looking at my dowels wrong. I will see if I can post some closeup pictures of my dowels and seek an opinion.

Thank you,
Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 12:14 AM, J. Clarke wrote:

On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the

existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

While that is generally true, long narrow plugs, an inch and longer made
from face grain are easily broken during insertion.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/


On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole

that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be
slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here are

the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If

you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro= >>te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole

that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be
slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here

are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You >> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will >> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type >> of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you

know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

Bob Davis <wrobertdavis@gmail.com> writes:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:=20

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com = >wro=3D=20
te:=20
=20

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=3D20=20
=3D20=20
Bob=20

=20
Good job.=20

=20
Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain=20
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. =
I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not fi=
nd any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using = >a plug cutter to match the existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, = >I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

I've never, ever seen a dowel where the _ends_, i.e. the part you are
driving your screws into, was not endgrain - the dowel would have no
strength along the length of the dowel.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 08:14:09 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.

I was just saying that there is no need to cut them yourself. I've
never had any luck cutting them myself.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
surface, that you are repairing. ;(

And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
PIA.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot hole

that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid to be
slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here

are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You >>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will >>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type >>>> of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If you

know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
surface, that you are repairing. ;(

Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?

And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
PIA.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 10:44 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 08:14:09 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up.

I was just saying that there is no need to cut them yourself. I've
never had any luck cutting them myself.

Were you using a drill press? If the bit or wood tilts the plug will
break and jam in the cutter. And don't spin too fast. Friction causes
the plug to expand, break and jam the cutter.

AND you have to sneak up on how deep to cut. Any thing past just
beginning to round the bottom end/the surface, past the taper, will
break and jam the plug too.

Once you learn what not to do, LOL, it works great!

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:57:57 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:44 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 08:14:09 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrobertdavis@gmail.com> wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:09:27 AM UTC-6, k...@notreal.com wrote: >>>> On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, sc...@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)

wrote:

Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper >>>> a bonus.

I use leevalley plug cutters, which come in a variety of sizes 1/4" on up. >>

I was just saying that there is no need to cut them yourself. I've
never had any luck cutting them myself.

Were you using a drill press? If the bit or wood tilts the plug will
break and jam in the cutter. And don't spin too fast. Friction causes
the plug to expand, break and jam the cutter.

The sides are too rough to use.

AND you have to sneak up on how deep to cut. Any thing past just
beginning to round the bottom end/the surface, past the taper, will
break and jam the plug too.

Once you learn what not to do, LOL, it works great!

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 10:52 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper
a bonus.

Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
surface, that you are repairing. ;(

Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?

Absolutely but cutting from stock affords you the ability to more
closely match grain and color.

After insertion into the hole I used to use a pull saw to cut the plugs
off at the surface of the work to prevent it from breaking off below the surface. Now I use my Fein Multimaster and wood cutting blade. Then
finish sand.

And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a
PIA.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 11:19:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:52 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal)
wrote:

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper >>>> a bonus.

Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
surface, that you are repairing. ;(

Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?

Absolutely but cutting from stock affords you the ability to more
closely match grain and color.

But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
screw stripped it out. I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
possible. Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction. The color
is fine. ;-)

After insertion into the hole I used to use a pull saw to cut the plugs
off at the surface of the work to prevent it from breaking off below the >surface. Now I use my Fein Multimaster and wood cutting blade. Then
finish sand.

And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the
taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a >>> PIA.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 11:49 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 11:19:32 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:52 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Mon, 3 Jan 2022 10:48:03 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet> wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:09 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 31 Dec 2021 16:05:42 GMT, scott@slp53.sl.home (Scott Lurndal) >>>>> wrote:

Sonny <cedarsonny@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain >>>>>> plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Aren't all plugs face grain? 1/4" depth should be plenty and the taper >>>>> a bonus.

Just about all face grain plugs are only good at being plugs to hide
screws or holes. And in many cases they will break off below the
surface, that you are repairing. ;(

Aren't ones cut from stock going to do the same thing?

Absolutely but cutting from stock affords you the ability to more
closely match grain and color.

But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
screw stripped it out. I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
possible. Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction. The color
is fine. ;-)

So not really, I think the screw broke and it had to be taken out by a
plug cutter of some sort.

Regardless I would still use a dowel over a face cut plug to repair a
hole to receive a screw.

After insertion into the hole I used to use a pull saw to cut the plugs
off at the surface of the work to prevent it from breaking off below the
surface. Now I use my Fein Multimaster and wood cutting blade. Then
finish sand.

And the taper is a bonus but the hole has to be deep enough so that the >>>> taper actually snugs up against the perimeter of the hole it is
plugging. Yes, you can shorten the plug after cutting it but that is a >>>> PIA.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:02:51 AM UTC-6, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 12:14:59 AM UTC-6, J. Clarke wrote:

On Sun, 2 Jan 2022 21:05:50 -0800 (PST), Bob Davis
<wrober...@gmail.com> wrote:

On Friday, December 31, 2021 at 10:05:48 AM UTC-6, Scott Lurndal wrote: >> Sonny <cedar...@aol.com> writes:

On Thursday, December 30, 2021 at 4:22:01 PM UTC-6, wrober...@gmail.com wro=
te:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs=20
=20
Bob

Good job.

Although it may be better to use a plug cutter to make a face-grain
plug rather than using an end-grain dowel for this application.

Scott, out of curiosity, I looked at the grain structure of all my dowels. I have over a 1000 in different sizes from several sources. I could not find any that were end-grain. I understand the aesthetic advantage of using a plug cutter to match the

existing wood. Since this was a hidden repair, I now do not see the advantage of using a plug instead of the dowel.

A screw in end-grain is much weaker than a screw in face-grain. And
I've never seen a dowel whose ends were face-grain.

Yes, I understand the strength issues. Apparently, I am looking at my dowels wrong. I will see if I can post some closeup pictures of my dowels and seek an opinion.

Thank you,
Bob

I am always willing to admit a mistake, especially in this conference. My dowels are end grain.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot

hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid
to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here

are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If

you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

Great idea. I will see what I can do. I sure would like a reliable vix bit for these small hinges. The other bits work great for larger applications.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot

hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid
to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here

are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If

you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

Unfortunately, the smallest bit got bent in drop to the concrete. I ran across this in an amazon review:

"I use these for the very small sizes on Jewelry and Keepsake boxes. I found that the three smallest bits do not have a tapered end (visible if you zoom in on the picture, so I presume they all come that way), HOWEVER, I was able to easily remove the
barrel and O-spring, then place it into a drill press chuck and then use a file to put my own taper on the end. This allows the bit end to 'hold' itself in the 1/16 and 5/64 holes much better. It only took about two minutes per bit to fix and it was easy
with a drill press and file. I hope this helps some else too, because I wasn't to happy with my first impression, but since it was so easy to fix, I'm giving 5 stars instead of three. I like how they can be taken apart easily, too for changing bits, etc.
I'd certainly buy these again or maybe get a second set."

So I ordered the set and will see how the drill press/file fix works.

Bob

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/3/2022 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:

On 1/3/2022 11:49 AM, krw@notreal.com wrote:

But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
screw stripped it out.  I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
possible.  Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction.  The color
is fine.  ;-)

So not really, I think the screw broke and it had to be taken out by a
plug cutter of some sort.

Regardless I would still use a dowel over a face cut plug to repair a
hole to receive a screw

Another solution would be to fill the hole with epoxy like JBWeld. I
recently watched the guy that tests everything on YouTube and JBWeld
(and others) could resist over 1000lb pull on a screw drilled into solid
epoxy. JBWeld tested at or near the top in all tests and was the
cheapest per ounce.

I never tried it but based on what I saw, it should work easily for this
use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3r0UZ7txzs
Tensile test results at 8:36
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Wednesday, January 5, 2022 at 9:02:51 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 1/3/2022 2:16 PM, Leon wrote:

On 1/3/2022 11:49 AM, k...@notreal.com wrote:

But we've been talking about repairing the wood behind a hinge where a
screw stripped it out. I'd think you'd want the wood as dense as
possible. Matching grain isn't on the list of priorities. He's using
a dowel now which as the grain going the wrong direction. The color
is fine. ;-)

So not really, I think the screw broke and it had to be taken out by a
plug cutter of some sort.

Regardless I would still use a dowel over a face cut plug to repair a
hole to receive a screw

Another solution would be to fill the hole with epoxy like JBWeld. I
recently watched the guy that tests everything on YouTube and JBWeld
(and others) could resist over 1000lb pull on a screw drilled into solid epoxy. JBWeld tested at or near the top in all tests and was the
cheapest per ounce.

I never tried it but based on what I saw, it should work easily for this
use.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3r0UZ7txzs
Tensile test results at 8:36
--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

thanks, Jack. That is good information. I used JB weld one time to repair the broken cast frame on a bench grinder. I did not have much faith that it would work. It did! I could not break it after that and I tried with a sledge hammer.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot

hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid
to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here

are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You
also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will
constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type
of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If

you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

I bought another vixbit set and chucked the smallest bit into the drill press at 3600 rpm. Using a mill file, I created a perfectly smooth, perfectly centered taper that works great with my small hinges. I will pay more attention to the fit for vixbits
to the job at hand, then file accordingly. This was a great learning experience.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 1/8/2022 3:34 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:50:34 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

On 1/3/2022 10:12 AM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Monday, January 3, 2022 at 10:04:13 AM UTC-6, Leon wrote:

According to this site, the "Vicks" brand Vixbit #3 will drill 5/64"
holes, for #3 and #4 screws.

https://www.srshardware.com/product/vicks-bits/
On 1/2/2022 12:49 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

On Sunday, January 2, 2022 at 9:29:47 AM UTC-6, Jack wrote:

On 12/30/2021 5:21 PM, Bob Davis wrote:

One of the Christmas boxes I built for a grandson had an unfortunate accident and I thought I would share how I repaired it. I used #4 x 3/8" solid brass wood screws to attach the hinges to the box lid. These screws are fragile. I used a pilot

hole that was too small for the teak hardwood and the head of one of the screws twisted right off, even though I was only using a hand screw driver with gentle pressure. Also, I did not get the screw placement right on one of the hinges, causing the lid
to be slightly canted and not lining up with the box body properly. I could have made a new lid. Since it involved small hinge mortises, engraving, and more sanding and finishing, I decided to try to repair instead.

I also will say that I have yet to find a self centering 5/64" drill bit that is good enough quality to get the holes consistently placed. i ended up using a regular center punch and drill press (against the fence) to get four new holes placed

exactly right.

The basis for the repair is to drill out a 1/4" hole, glue in a 1/4" dowel, trimming the dowel flush and re-drilling the hole. I think the photos tell the story pretty well. The result is a perfectly fitting box lid with no patches visible. Here

are the photos:

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGWBC59GxesPs

Bob

You need Vix bits to drill holes centered in hinges for your screws. You >>>>>> also need the correct hole size for your screw. Other than that you will >>>>>> constantly be in an uphill battle to drill holes correctly for this type >>>>>> of hinge.

--
Jack
Tolerance is the virtue of the man without convictions.

I have several sets. The ones with required 5/64" bit size have a shell size that is too large to properly center in the holes on the little hinges I was using. I am having good success with a Lisle spring loaded center punch, in the meantime. If

you know of a brand of vixbit that has a tiny diameter nose for the 5/64" bit, I would gladly buy it.

Bob

Thanks, Leon

I have a vixbit with 5/64" drill bit. But the nose is too big for little hinges. It was advertises as handling #4 screws, but does not work. See this picture.

https://www.icloud.com/sharedalbum/#B0gGVfZ2vG4cLwu

Got'cha. Can you sacrifice that particular one? Disassemble it and
chuck up the centering piece in a drill and sand the tip more pointey? ;~)

I bought another vixbit set and chucked the smallest bit into the drill press at 3600 rpm. Using a mill file, I created a perfectly smooth, perfectly centered taper that works great with my small hinges. I will pay more attention to the fit for

vixbits to the job at hand, then file accordingly. This was a great learning experience.

Necessity is the mother of invention!

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)