For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/17/2021 11:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

I am guessing that you don't want one of those
blades that pulls the work into the blade. Also,
your bandsaw may have something to say about the answer.
There may be a chart somewhere that corresponds with "radius"
of the cut you want to make the the size of the blade.
Best of luck! FWIW, If I was thinking of cutting a nice 18" circle,
I think I would be thinking "router". Of course, people have made
jigs for such a task which would work on a table saw, but I
would not have thought of that! : )

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Wed, 17 Nov 2021 22:21:43 -0600, swalker <sw@newsguy.com> wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks

Why 1/2 inch ? Seems like 3 TPI is standard in 1/2 inch :

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/saw-blades/band-saw/30276-viking-bandsaw-blades

https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/saw-blades/band-saw/113877-olson-bandsaw-blades-1-4-x-025-x-6h

John T.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Wednesday, November 17, 2021 at 11:21:54 PM UTC-5, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

Have you considered cutting the circle on your table saw?
I’ve use this technique numerous times.

https://youtu.be/SFHIuZUpMXY

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 08:47:20 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

The rule of thumb I was taught was three teeth in the material, which
makes cutting 1/2 stock a bit strange.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

A 1/2" blade is plenty. That'll get down to 2-1/2" radius.

<https://www.bandsawbladesking.com/blade-resources/band-blade-width-guide/>

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

Hell, Leon, you'd just use your Shaper. Not a bad idea, though. A
router and circle guide right side up or upside down (pin in router
table). It would give a smooth(er) cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >> >>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 16:54:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >> >> >>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I've been thinking along the same lines, though hadn't considered
coasters. I just ordered a pressure pot for doing small projects like
that. A friend's brother does burl/resin globes and makes some good
money at it. It sounded like some fun.

I noticed the Woodcraft I frequent didn't have the California Air
pressure pots displayed anymore. The three they had along the back
wall had $299 tags on them. I know inflation, and all that, but a
couple of weeks ago they were $249. A recent Rockler ad still had them
for $249 and had a 10% "sale", which covered shipping and tax. It's in
the mail.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?

I just might try it.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/18/2021 10:18 PM, swalker wrote:

So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?

I just might try it.

You should *definitely* practice a bit on some scrap wood. I certainly
would. There are probably some YouTube videos showing more than one
technique. I would cut it out with your bandsaw (or any other way),
leaving say 1/4". Then apply the router. For best results, your Last
pass should certain not be taking off much wood. Leon, is the expert, he
can suggest a more appropriate bit to use than I can.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:40:20 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 16:54:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >> >>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon >molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I've been thinking along the same lines, though hadn't considered
coasters. I just ordered a pressure pot for doing small projects like
that. A friend's brother does burl/resin globes and makes some good
money at it. It sounded like some fun.

I noticed the Woodcraft I frequent didn't have the California Air
pressure pots displayed anymore. The three they had along the back
wall had $299 tags on them. I know inflation, and all that, but a
couple of weeks ago they were $249. A recent Rockler ad still had them
for $249 and had a 10% "sale", which covered shipping and tax. It's in
the mail.

I hadn't heard of Pressure Pots for resin casting before. Interesting. I just watched the video at Woodcraft.

At 3:55ish he says "We'll set our timer and come back." What amount of
time are we taking about for the blanks he was making, e.g. knife
handles?

Coasters with 1/4" thick "rivers" appear to take about 24 hours to cure. Does the pressure pot speed up the cure time or just get all the air bubbles out?

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/18/2021 2:56 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

I would use my Shaper Origin! ;~)

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/19/2021 12:47 PM, Leon wrote:


One more thing. If you have a 1/2" shank bit that cuts 1/2" you should
get less chatter, a smoother cut.

And again, first pass shallow, less than 1/8" deep. This goes quickly
so multiple passes don't really take that much longer.

On 11/18/2021 9:18 PM, swalker wrote:

So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?

IIRC I used a carbide up spiral.  Mine was 3/4" thick and I made a very shallow first pass to help prevent tear out and then 3 more passes.  If
you are going to round over the top edge any tear out should be cut away during that process.

I just might try it.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel.   Perfect circle and >>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On 11/18/2021 9:18 PM, swalker wrote:

So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?

IIRC I used a carbide up spiral. Mine was 3/4" thick and I made a very
shallow first pass to help prevent tear out and then 3 more passes. If
you are going to round over the top edge any tear out should be cut away
during that process.

I just might try it.

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do. >>>>>>
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product, starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process, before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 07:04:59 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:40:20 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 16:54:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >> >> >>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >> >> >> > bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >> >> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I've been thinking along the same lines, though hadn't considered
coasters. I just ordered a pressure pot for doing small projects like
that. A friend's brother does burl/resin globes and makes some good
money at it. It sounded like some fun.

I noticed the Woodcraft I frequent didn't have the California Air
pressure pots displayed anymore. The three they had along the back
wall had $299 tags on them. I know inflation, and all that, but a
couple of weeks ago they were $249. A recent Rockler ad still had them
for $249 and had a 10% "sale", which covered shipping and tax. It's in
the mail.

I hadn't heard of Pressure Pots for resin casting before. Interesting. I just >watched the video at Woodcraft.

At 3:55ish he says "We'll set our timer and come back." What amount of
time are we taking about for the blanks he was making, e.g. knife
handles?

Coasters with 1/4" thick "rivers" appear to take about 24 hours to cure. Does >the pressure pot speed up the cure time or just get all the air bubbles out?

It's just a few hours as the casting sets up, I think. It doesn't
have to be fully cured. Just gets the bubbles out, AFAIK.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that >makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I >use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product, >starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.

There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process, >before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 02:02:40 -0500, Bill <nonegiven@att.net> wrote:

On 11/18/2021 10:18 PM, swalker wrote:

So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?

I just might try it.

You should *definitely* practice a bit on some scrap wood. I certainly
would. There are probably some YouTube videos showing more than one >technique. I would cut it out with your bandsaw (or any other way),
leaving say 1/4". Then apply the router. For best results, your Last
pass should certain not be taking off much wood. Leon, is the expert, he
can suggest a more appropriate bit to use than I can.

I think this is the best way. I'd then to avoid tear-out, trim to
size using a compression bit.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do. >> >> >>>>>>
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >> >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I >> >> > went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon >> >> > molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy >> >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently >> >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.

It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the >start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.

G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
clear, AFAIK.

There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.

I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.

That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.

A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.

One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.

Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple >> >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.

I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.

I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.

It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.

I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I >> > went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon >> > molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.

It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.

There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.

I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.

A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.

One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.

I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.

I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.

It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do. >> >> >>>>>>
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.

That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy. >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.

It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.

G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
clear, AFAIK.

G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:

"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."

The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.

The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.

I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.

That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.

A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.

One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.

Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.

I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.

I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.

It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.

I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.

Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue, that makes sense.

The instructions don't say much about how thick you can pour it, other than "thicker layers cure faster than thin". As far as heating it, I think I just went
too far.

The first couple of passes released some air like I've seen in a few videos but,
after I removed the flame some bubbles appeared around the edges of the pour. When I tried to get rid of those bubbles it "flashed foamed" and actually started
burning.

https://i.imgur.com/BkWWL60.jpg

I hope to sand them tonight (after 24 hours) but I'm heading out of town for the
Thanksgiving week, so it depends on how much packing I get done today. Stay tuned.

As an attempt to apologize for the thread drift, I suggest that swalker consider
adding an epoxy stripe or river to his Lazy Susans. That might look really cool.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Sat, 20 Nov 2021 06:56:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teamarrows@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.

Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain. >> >> >> >>>>>
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy. >> >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.

It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like >> >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.

G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
clear, AFAIK.

G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:

OK, but it's not something intended for A&C. AFAIC, Epoxe is a glue.

"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."

Ok...

The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.

The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

The result isn't clear. That's what matters.

There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.

I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.

That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.

A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.

One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.

Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.

I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.

I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping >> >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the >> >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.

It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.

I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.

Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue, >that makes sense.

I would expect the instructions to give the bounds. "Heating" could
be/do anything.

The instructions don't say much about how thick you can pour it, other than >"thicker layers cure faster than thin". As far as heating it, I think I just went
too far.

I'm surprised that thicker layers cure faster. Wonder why.

The first couple of passes released some air like I've seen in a few videos but,
after I removed the flame some bubbles appeared around the edges of the pour. >When I tried to get rid of those bubbles it "flashed foamed" and actually started
burning.

https://i.imgur.com/BkWWL60.jpg

I hope to sand them tonight (after 24 hours) but I'm heading out of town for the
Thanksgiving week, so it depends on how much packing I get done today. Stay >tuned.

As an attempt to apologize for the thread drift, I suggest that swalker consider
adding an epoxy stripe or river to his Lazy Susans. That might look really cool.

--- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
* Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)

On Saturday, November 20, 2021 at 8:32:56 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Sat, 20 Nov 2021 06:56:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03

<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:

On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >> >>>> On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:

On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:

For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.

How man TPI should I be looking for.

I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.

Any other considerations?

Thanks

The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge. >> >> >> >>>>>>
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.

Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.

And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain. >> >> >> >>>>>
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut. >> >> >> >>>>>

My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.

Seen it, never tried it. I should.

Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)

Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)

My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.

There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.

I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.

Maybe coasters would be a good start.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE

I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.

Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.

There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.

I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.

It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like
ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.

G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
clear, AFAIK.

G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:

OK, but it's not something intended for A&C. AFAIC, Epoxe is a glue.

We could spend hours debating definitions & terms, but I don't plan to. ;-)

Epoxy, epoxy resins, epoxy coating resins, casting resins, oh my!

https://epoxycountertopdiy.com/difference-between-epoxy-and-resin/

"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."

Ok...

The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.

The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.

https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/

The result isn't clear. That's what matters.

There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.

I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.

That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.

A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.

One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.

Oh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...

I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.

It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.

I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.

I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping
bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the
cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.

It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.

I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.

Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue, >that makes sense.

I would expect the instructions to give the bounds. "Heating" could
be/do anything.

The instructions for the G/Flex do discuss using heat for various applications, but they don't cover removing air bubbles to any extent. Barely a mention. They do discuss - and I have done it - flame-treating certain plastics before bonding
and also heating some surfaces so that the epoxy thins out on contact and
gets absorbed by the material a little better.

The instructions don't say much about how thick you can pour it, other than >"thicker layers cure faster than thin". As far as heating it, I think I just went
too far.

I'm surprised that thicker layers cure faster. Wonder why.

The thicker the layer, the more heat that is generated. More mass, less surface area
for the heat to dissipate. In the best of cases, the extra heat simply speeds up the cure.
In the worst of cases, you get an uncontrolled cure, nasty vapors, melting containers,
and a frothy mess like I caused with the torch.

More here:

https://www.westsystem.com/safety/uncontrolled-cure/

Anyway, I sanded my 2 coasters and applied one cost of wipe on poly. I wasn't expecting anything especially presentable...this was just a learning experience.

Here's what I learned:

Don't overheat the resin while trying to remove the air bubbles. Some of the foaming that I experienced sanded off, but on one dado it's all the way down to bottom of the pour. I didn't even attempt to reheat it to see if it would clear up.
I don't plan on using G/Flex for the real coasters, so I'll hone my skills on the
epoxy/resin that's actually made for this type of project.

I watched one video where the guy complained that he forgot to use sealer and therefore expected to get some bleeding. I wasn't sure what he meant, but I think I do now. You can see where the epoxy bled into the wood at the edges
of the dado. Obviously, a nice crisp line would be more desirable. Deeper sanding
might clear that up.

I may try planing the over-pour before sanding next time. The epoxy is so much harder than the Douglas Fir that I used that my ROS left a wavy surface. A drum sander might work too, but I don't have one. I guess the other option is to underpour
and sand the wood down to the level of the epoxy.

Obviously, color matters. Amber epoxy and Douglas Fir don't exactly make a dramatic combination.

Anyway, here's the good, the bad and the ugly.

https://i.imgur.com/5IV41Kv.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wtgIjP8.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/RrH3clg.jpg

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