For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >> >>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. TheThe cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >> >> >>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. TheThe cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?
I just might try it.
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. TheThe cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 16:54:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >> >>> circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon >molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHEI've been thinking along the same lines, though hadn't considered
coasters. I just ordered a pressure pot for doing small projects like
that. A friend's brother does burl/resin globes and makes some good
money at it. It sounded like some fun.
I noticed the Woodcraft I frequent didn't have the California Air
pressure pots displayed anymore. The three they had along the back
wall had $299 tags on them. I know inflation, and all that, but a
couple of weeks ago they were $249. A recent Rockler ad still had them
for $249 and had a 10% "sale", which covered shipping and tax. It's in
the mail.
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. TheThe cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
On 11/18/2021 9:18 PM, swalker wrote:
So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?
IIRC I used a carbide up spiral. Mine was 3/4" thick and I made a very shallow first pass to help prevent tear out and then 3 more passes. If
you are going to round over the top edge any tear out should be cut away during that process.
I just might try it.
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?
I just might try it.
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 14:45:30 -0600, Leon <lcb11211@swbelldotnet>
wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. TheThe cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18" >>>>>>> circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do. >>>>>>
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-) >> Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:40:20 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 16:54:44 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03I've been thinking along the same lines, though hadn't considered
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >> >> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >> >> >>> circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >> >> >> > bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
coasters. I just ordered a pressure pot for doing small projects like
that. A friend's brother does burl/resin globes and makes some good
money at it. It sounded like some fun.
I noticed the Woodcraft I frequent didn't have the California Air
pressure pots displayed anymore. The three they had along the back
wall had $299 tags on them. I know inflation, and all that, but a
couple of weeks ago they were $249. A recent Rockler ad still had them
for $249 and had a 10% "sale", which covered shipping and tax. It's in
the mail.
I hadn't heard of Pressure Pots for resin casting before. Interesting. I just >watched the video at Woodcraft.
At 3:55ish he says "We'll set our timer and come back." What amount of
time are we taking about for the blanks he was making, e.g. knife
handles?
Coasters with 1/4" thick "rivers" appear to take about 24 hours to cure. Does >the pressure pot speed up the cure time or just get all the air bubbles out?
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that >makes them work so well for deep pours.
There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I >use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product, >starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process, >before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
On 11/18/2021 10:18 PM, swalker wrote:
So Leon, what kind of bit do you use in the router and how many passes
if the walnut is 1" thick?
I just might try it.
You should *definitely* practice a bit on some scrap wood. I certainly
would. There are probably some YouTube videos showing more than one >technique. I would cut it out with your bandsaw (or any other way),
leaving say 1/4". Then apply the router. For best results, your Last
pass should certain not be taking off much wood. Leon, is the expert, he
can suggest a more appropriate bit to use than I can.
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy >> >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do. >> >> >>>>>>
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >> >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I >> >> > went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon >> >> > molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently >> >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.
There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the >start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.
I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.
A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.
It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple >> >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.
I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and >> >>>> a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The >> >>>>>>> circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my >> >>>>> bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I >> > went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon >> > molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back >> > in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy >> pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently >take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.
There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems II don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.
I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple >dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been >> >> advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do. >> >> >>>>>>
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain.
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy. >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing >> >> > something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.
There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from theG-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
clear, AFAIK.
The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.
There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.
I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.
A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes region
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxyOh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...
It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.
I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. ButI wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:
On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >> >>>>>> On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge.
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain. >> >> >> >>>>>
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut.
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy. >> >> >> > Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.
There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like >> >ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
clear, AFAIK.
G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is more
flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:
"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress of
expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."
The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.
The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.
https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/
That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.
There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.
I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.
A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes regionOh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...
I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.
It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.
I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping >> >bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the >> >cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue, >that makes sense.
The instructions don't say much about how thick you can pour it, other than >"thicker layers cure faster than thin". As far as heating it, I think I just went
too far.
The first couple of passes released some air like I've seen in a few videos but,
after I removed the flame some bubbles appeared around the edges of the pour. >When I tried to get rid of those bubbles it "flashed foamed" and actually started
burning.
https://i.imgur.com/BkWWL60.jpg
I hope to sand them tonight (after 24 hours) but I'm heading out of town for the
Thanksgiving week, so it depends on how much packing I get done today. Stay >tuned.
As an attempt to apologize for the thread drift, I suggest that swalker consider
adding an epoxy stripe or river to his Lazy Susans. That might look really cool.
On Sat, 20 Nov 2021 06:56:52 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 11:14:44 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 19:54:35 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 6:54:04 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote: >> >> On Fri, 19 Nov 2021 11:49:00 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03G-Flex is a glue, isn't it? The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Friday, November 19, 2021 at 1:43:17 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote:I don't think that's a big problem. Bars, and such places, have
On 11/18/2021 6:54 PM, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 7:25:32 PM UTC-5, k...@notreal.com wrote:I have not yet dabbled in the Epoxy decorative use yet. BUT I have been
On Thu, 18 Nov 2021 12:56:21 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
<teama...@eznet.net> wrote:
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 3:45:40 PM UTC-5, Leon wrote: >> >> >> >>>> On 11/18/2021 11:55 AM, DerbyDad03 wrote:Hole saw (w/dowel). ;-)
On Thursday, November 18, 2021 at 9:47:28 AM UTC-5, Leon wrote:My preferred method is with a router on a trammel. Perfect circle and
On 11/17/2021 10:21 PM, swalker wrote:
For the lazy Susans I am building for my daughters I will cut the 18"The cut will still have to be dealt with to smooth the edge. >> >> >> >>>>>>
circle on my band saw. I need to buy a blade for that purpose. The
circle will be about 1" thick.
How man TPI should I be looking for.
I plan to buy a 1/2" blade.
Any other considerations?
Thanks
Most any blade, that is not too wide to fit in the arc, will do.
Just go slowly if the blade you have does not cut quickly.
And use some time of jig. Free handing a circle can be a pain. >> >> >> >>>>>
That's why I like the table saw method. That, and the fact that my
bandsaw table is too small for most of the circles I've cut. >> >> >> >>>>>
a very clean cut that needs little prep after the cut.
Seen it, never tried it. I should.
Do you use a trim router and a tiny, little trammel to make coasters. ;-)
My own mention of coasters got me thinking about Christmas gifts, so I
went looking.
There's quite a few videos of DIY coasters made with wood and epoxy.
Some were done in the "river" style of epoxy use and some used silicon
molds.
I've been using epoxy for various things over the years, especially back
in my Soap Box Derby days and I keep tinkering with the idea of doing
something with epoxy and wood.
Maybe coasters would be a good start.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bh5ZRUXvwDs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5UggyQJsVHE
advised that, depending on the project and thickness/ depth of the Epoxy
pour, you want to get specific types. Food for thought.
Yeah, there are Deep Pour versions vs. "normal". Deep pour types apparently
take much longer to cure even at shallow depths. It's the slow cure time that
makes them work so well for deep pours.
There's also the yellowing issue to deal with. I know that the West Systems I
use for most repair/reinforcing tasks, especially their newer G-Flex product,
starts out as amber and gets darker over time.
tables with a thick pour on them. I haven't seen any yellowing.
It's based on the type of resin. The G-flex is definitely amber right from the
start. The hardener is amber. Both the resin and hardener in products like
ArtResin and Deep Pour are clear.
clear, AFAIK.
G/Flex is not a glue. It's a "toughened epoxy". It's defining trait is that is moreOK, but it's not something intended for A&C. AFAIC, Epoxe is a glue.
flexible than standard epoxies. I quote:
"This gives it the ability to make structural bonds that can absorb the stress ofOk...
expansion, contraction, shock, and vibration."
The resins they use in arts-n-crafts is clear, AFAIK.
The G/Flex resin is clear. It's the hardener that's amber.
https://www.westsystem.com/specialty-epoxies/gflex-650-toughened-epoxy/The result isn't clear. That's what matters.
That was my point. Use very little or it'll be opaque, or nearly so.
There are dyes, too. It doesn't take much to turn the Epoxies opaque
so it goes go a long way.
I make not want opaque. Some of the swirl designs are cool as are imbedded objects.
A few years ago SWMBO and I went on an "open studio tour" in the Finger Lakes regionOh, how cruel. I'm not sure it's my cup of tea. I have ten, give or
of New York. Artists, craft-persons, jewelers, etc. all opened up their studios and shops
for a "behind the scene" look at what they do.
One guy owns a huge piece of land and uses his own trees to make live edge and epoxy
tables. He had lots of tables with leaves and berries embedded in the epoxy. He
showed me one table and explained that a while back he and his wife were cutting up a
tree and a whole bunch of beetles came crawling out. He was about to stomp them but
his wife stopped him. She gathered them up, put them in a jar and said "These would look
really good in a table." Sure enough, he floated the beetles - live - in the epoxy, where
they slowly died in various states of contortion.
take, sugar maple 2x8x8s. They still have the tap holes. I thought
they'd make a nice table top. Not sure what I need another table for,
but...
I wouldn't expect it to be but experiments are how we learn.
It looks like a lot of fun to me. The combination of wood and
I'm thinking of trying something small, like a coaster or two with a simple
dado'd stripe or maybe two - using my G-flex - just to play with the process,
before I buy any "specialty" supplies.
acrylics looks nice on chachskis.
I just poured 2 soon-to-be coasters. I may have f'd them up. We'll see after they
cure and are sanded.
I overheated the epoxy and it foamed up on me. It went from lightly popping
bubbles to Oh-Sh*t! in an instant. I'm hoping I over-poured enough that the
cured foam will sand off. Maybe a re-heat will smooth the surface.
It could also be that G-Flex isn't meant for this type of pour and heating. But
hey, that's why we try stuff with scraps.
Why wouldn't you expect it to be? If it's because you thought it was a glue, >that makes sense.I would expect the instructions to give the bounds. "Heating" could
be/do anything.
The instructions don't say much about how thick you can pour it, other than >"thicker layers cure faster than thin". As far as heating it, I think I just wentI'm surprised that thicker layers cure faster. Wonder why.
too far.
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