• Re: Beginner : Nailing up T-111 siding

    From Ben there@21:1/5 to All on Mon Nov 15 19:45:02 2021
    Beware of glueing bad idea screws I recommend easy removal, T1-11 siding is okay if proper installation is done, anymore people are switching to Stuco pre colored zero maintenance compared to wood products. Depending on you climate zone Hot summer and
    Freezing winters T1-11 is known for its Expansion and retraction to seasons.

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    For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/woodworking/beginner-nailing-up-t-111-siding-273331-.htm

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  • From Sonny@21:1/5 to Ben there on Mon Nov 15 13:51:14 2021
    That is a very interesting answer, well worth the 14 years we waited for it.

    On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 1:45:06 PM UTC-6, Ben there wrote:
    Beware of glueing bad idea screws I recommend easy removal, T1-11 siding is okay if proper installation is done, anymore people are switching to Stuco pre colored zero maintenance compared to wood products. Depending on you climate zone Hot summer and
    Freezing winters T1-11 is known for its Expansion and retraction to seasons.

    LOL, Ed. Now 17 yrs.

    Screws are a bad idea. They rust and are a pain to removed once rusted.... ask me how I know. I used screws on T1-11 for my garage siding and on the shop, has held up well, though small areas on the garage has needed replacing in the past 30 yrs.
    No problems yet on the shop (11 yrs). I thought ahead, installing a 20" or so skirt nearer to the ground, assuming the bottom edge would suffer the most from weather, weed eating and the like. If damaged, I only need to replace a skirt section,
    not mess with a whole sheet. I primed and painted front and back of the skirts. Above the skirt I installed a drip edge, then full sheets above that. Primed and painted the bottom edge and the bottom 1' of the back sides of the full sheets before
    installing.... just in case, didn't want any wetness to wick up that back side on any bare wood, should moisture get back there. Behind the sheeting I installed felt.

    Use just smooth galvanized nails, not ring shank. Ring shanks are hard to pull out, often times.

    Skirt application - shop construction/remodel https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4734021406/in/photostream

    Sonny

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  • From Aoli@21:1/5 to Sonny on Wed Nov 17 11:10:19 2021
    On my, rebuilt in place wood garage door, I use all stainless screws
    with torx heads. I had 20 year old door to repair that was using deck
    screws. I used a hole saw to drill around the deck screws and just
    lifted the old rotted plywood sheeting off. Installed new exterior
    grade plywood one pane at a time to maintain squareness of the 18 foot
    door using SS screws. Worked perfectly and now I have a new door. (Kept
    the framing as it was in perfect condition, only the plywood panels were rotted).




    Sonny wrote:
    That is a very interesting answer, well worth the 14 years we waited for
    it.

    On Monday, November 15, 2021 at 1:45:06 PM UTC-6, Ben there wrote:
    Beware of glueing bad idea screws I recommend easy removal, T1-11 siding is okay if proper installation is done, anymore people are switching to Stuco pre colored zero maintenance compared to wood products. Depending on you climate zone Hot summer and
    Freezing winters T1-11 is known for its Expansion and retraction to seasons.

    LOL, Ed. Now 17 yrs.

    Screws are a bad idea. They rust and are a pain to removed once rusted.... ask me how I know. I used screws on T1-11 for my garage siding and on the shop, has held up well, though small areas on the garage has needed replacing in the past 30 yrs.
    No problems yet on the shop (11 yrs). I thought ahead, installing a 20" or so skirt nearer to the ground, assuming the bottom edge would suffer the most from weather, weed eating and the like. If damaged, I only need to replace a skirt section,
    not mess with a whole sheet. I primed and painted front and back of the skirts. Above the skirt I installed a drip edge, then full sheets above that. Primed and painted the bottom edge and the bottom 1' of the back sides of the full sheets before
    installing.... just in case, didn't want any wetness to wick up that back side on any bare wood, should moisture get back there. Behind the sheeting I installed felt.

    Use just smooth galvanized nails, not ring shank. Ring shanks are hard to pull out, often times.

    Skirt application - shop construction/remodel https://www.flickr.com/photos/43836144@N04/4734021406/in/photostream

    Sonny


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