• My 'standard' lens ...

    From geoff@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 14 19:19:00 2021
    ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall
    quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    geoff

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  • From newshound@21:1/5 to geoff on Sun Nov 14 11:58:50 2021
    On 14/11/2021 06:19, geoff wrote:
     ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    geoff

    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for
    artistic effect. Not that you necessarily have to pay big money for
    that, I have a TT Artisans manual lens for the Fuju-Xs just for that reason.

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  • From Alan Browne@21:1/5 to geoff on Sun Nov 14 08:42:22 2021
    On 2021-11-14 01:19, geoff wrote:
     ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    I find these longish zooms are soft towards the long end. DOF can be an
    issue too.

    Do you actually print your images? How large? (Or crop significantly).

    That ultimately shows the benefits or limits of the capture lens.

    --
    "...there are many humorous things in this world; among them the white
    man's notion that he is less savage than the other savages."
    -Samuel Clemens

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  • From Alfred Molon@21:1/5 to All on Sun Nov 14 21:06:30 2021
    Am 14.11.2021 um 07:19 schrieb geoff:
     ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    If you don't need full frame you could use an Olympus 14-150 lens (same
    range of field of view) and pair with an E-M5 III camera. Total weight
    is 699 grams, compared to the 1.8 Kg of your current setup.
    --
    Alfred Molon

    Olympus 4/3 and micro 4/3 cameras forum at
    https://groups.io/g/myolympus
    https://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site

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  • From geoff@21:1/5 to newshound on Mon Nov 15 14:08:15 2021
    On 15/11/2021 12:58 am, newshound wrote:
    On 14/11/2021 06:19, geoff wrote:
      ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall
    quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    geoff

    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for artistic effect.

    Yes, I guess that is the unavoidable tradeoff....

    geoff

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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to newshound on Mon Nov 15 10:19:44 2021
    On 2021-11-14, newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:
    On 14/11/2021 06:19, geoff wrote:
     ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall
    quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    geoff

    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for artistic effect. Not that you necessarily have to pay big money for
    that, I have a TT Artisans manual lens for the Fuju-Xs just for that reason.

    You *can* do that without fast glass - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so
    at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to u9536612@gmail.com on Mon Nov 15 05:38:29 2021
    In article <slrnsp4d20.k07.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:


    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for artistic effect. Not that you necessarily have to pay big money for
    that, I have a TT Artisans manual lens for the Fuju-Xs just for that reason.

    You *can* do that without fast glass

    yep, in software.

    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so
    at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also
    annoy the subject and others nearby.

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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to geoff on Mon Nov 15 10:17:34 2021
    On 2021-11-14, geoff <geoff@nospamgeoffwood.org> wrote:
    ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    Yes. The AF-P 70 - 300 4.5-5.6E is much sharper with more contrast, particularly at 300mm wide open. A prime lens is even better. A 28 -
    105 has less distortion at the wide end. So-called "super zoom" lenses
    always sacrifice quality for convenience. Distortion can often be
    corrected but you can't correct for low resolving power.

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    It depends on your needs. The D800 has decent low light performance but nothing amazing. If you shoot action or indoor events, a faster lens is
    a must-have if you want clean images without motion blur. If it's not something you find you need then maybe there's not much point for you personally.

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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 11:55:32 2021
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4d20.k07.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:


    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for
    artistic effect. Not that you necessarily have to pay big money for
    that, I have a TT Artisans manual lens for the Fuju-Xs just for that reason.

    You *can* do that without fast glass

    yep, in software.

    Not the same.

    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so
    at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also
    annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass and your need to have the
    last word doesn't change that.

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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to u9536612@gmail.com on Mon Nov 15 07:13:40 2021
    In article <slrnsp4ihn.plt.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    The D800 has decent low light performance but
    nothing amazing.

    actually it's quite amazing, especially compared to film, which could
    only dream about high iso, resulting in the need for fast expensive
    glass.

    It's nothing amazing compared to newer cameras or cameras designed for
    high ISO performance. How does comparing it to obsolete techonology
    that enthusiasts use help?

    it's more than sufficient for indoor work with a non-fast lens.

    even dx cameras do quite well.

    If you shoot action or indoor events, a faster lens is
    a must-have if you want clean images without motion blur.

    no it isn't.

    use auto-iso with a fast enough shutter speed.

    With a 28 - 300? Good luck with that.

    no need for luck. i've shot theatre and dance with lenses from f/4 to
    f/5.6, no issues whatsoever.

    Maybe all the professionals
    using the 70 - 200 2.8, 85mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8 for sports and events have
    got it wrong and they should use a slow zoom lens at ISO 6400 or beyond.
    I'm sure their clients would love that.

    they use those lenses because of generally higher quality results,
    weather sealed and/or shallow depth of field.

    the clients don't care what lens is used as long as the results are
    what they want. they probably don't know anything about lenses or
    f/stops or depth of field.

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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 11:53:27 2021
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4ctu.k07.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    The D800 has decent low light performance but
    nothing amazing.

    actually it's quite amazing, especially compared to film, which could
    only dream about high iso, resulting in the need for fast expensive
    glass.

    It's nothing amazing compared to newer cameras or cameras designed for
    high ISO performance. How does comparing it to obsolete techonology
    that enthusiasts use help?

    If you shoot action or indoor events, a faster lens is
    a must-have if you want clean images without motion blur.

    no it isn't.

    use auto-iso with a fast enough shutter speed.

    With a 28 - 300? Good luck with that. Maybe all the professionals
    using the 70 - 200 2.8, 85mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8 for sports and events have
    got it wrong and they should use a slow zoom lens at ISO 6400 or beyond.
    I'm sure their clients would love that.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to u9536612@gmail.com on Mon Nov 15 07:45:45 2021
    In article <slrnsp4k7n.qrv.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:


    So you're saying one can't get shallow depth of field with close focus?

    nope. i'm saying that it is not always possible.

    You'd better let the macro photographers know;

    macro is just one scenario, but even then, getting close is not always
    an option.

    for more common scenarios, such as portraits, sports, theatre and many
    others, it is not possible to get close, nor is it even desirable if it
    were.

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  • From newshound@21:1/5 to Incubus on Mon Nov 15 12:43:04 2021
    On 15/11/2021 11:53, Incubus wrote:
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4ctu.k07.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    The D800 has decent low light performance but
    nothing amazing.

    actually it's quite amazing, especially compared to film, which could
    only dream about high iso, resulting in the need for fast expensive
    glass.

    It's nothing amazing compared to newer cameras or cameras designed for
    high ISO performance. How does comparing it to obsolete techonology
    that enthusiasts use help?

    If you shoot action or indoor events, a faster lens is
    a must-have if you want clean images without motion blur.

    no it isn't.

    use auto-iso with a fast enough shutter speed.

    With a 28 - 300? Good luck with that. Maybe all the professionals
    using the 70 - 200 2.8, 85mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8 for sports and events have
    got it wrong and they should use a slow zoom lens at ISO 6400 or beyond.
    I'm sure their clients would love that.

    Quite. The extra light doesn't just let them keep ISO down and speeds
    up, it gives them faster and better autofocus which really matters when
    you rely on selling pics for a living.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 12:22:15 2021
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4ilk.plt.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for >> >> > artistic effect. Not that you necessarily have to pay big money for
    that, I have a TT Artisans manual lens for the Fuju-Xs just for that
    reason.

    You *can* do that without fast glass

    yep, in software.

    Not the same.

    that depends on the software.

    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so
    at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also
    annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass

    as i said, not always.

    try running up to the stage in a theatre during a performance.

    and your need to have the
    last word doesn't change that.

    it's not about having the last word.

    you're simply wrong. very wrong.

    So you're saying one can't get shallow depth of field with close focus?
    You'd better let the macro photographers know; they've been stopping
    down and using focus stacking for years. All those photos people have
    taken using a Nikkor 28 - 105 or a 200mm f4 must have used software to
    achieve the effect, right?

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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to newshound on Mon Nov 15 07:45:44 2021
    In article <yP6dnbJRz_xFyA_8nZ2dnUU78IOdnZ2d@brightview.co.uk>,
    newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    Quite. The extra light doesn't just let them keep ISO down and speeds
    up, it gives them faster and better autofocus which really matters when
    you rely on selling pics for a living.

    autofocus works up to f/5.6, and f/8 on some cameras.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 13:51:43 2021
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <yP6dnbJRz_xFyA_8nZ2dnUU78IOdnZ2d@brightview.co.uk>,
    newshound <newshound@stevejqr.plus.com> wrote:

    Quite. The extra light doesn't just let them keep ISO down and speeds
    up, it gives them faster and better autofocus which really matters when
    you rely on selling pics for a living.

    autofocus works up to f/5.6, and f/8 on some cameras.

    The more light the better.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 14:00:46 2021
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4k7n.qrv.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:


    So you're saying one can't get shallow depth of field with close focus?

    nope. i'm saying that it is not always possible.

    In fact, this is how the conversation went:

    Me: As I said, you can do it without fast glass

    You: as i said, not always.

    Then: you're simply wrong. very wrong.

    So how am I wrong? It's either possible or it isn't. I didn't say it
    was always possible, as you keep saying.

    for more common scenarios, such as portraits, sports, theatre and many others, it is not possible to get close, nor is it even desirable if it
    were.

    As I said, it is possible. I didn't say it is always an option.

    For portraits, however, a comparatively slow lens can easily have
    shallow depth of field at the closest focus distance if the lens is long enough. A 200mm f4 or a 300mm f4.5 aren't considered fast but they will definitely work for portraits if you get as close as the lens allows.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to u9536612@gmail.com on Mon Nov 15 09:46:52 2021
    In article <slrnsp4q0e.sq3.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    So you're saying one can't get shallow depth of field with close focus?

    nope. i'm saying that it is not always possible.

    In fact, this is how the conversation went:

    Me: As I said, you can do it without fast glass

    You: as i said, not always.

    Then: you're simply wrong. very wrong.

    So how am I wrong? It's either possible or it isn't. I didn't say it
    was always possible, as you keep saying.

    you left out the full exchange:

    In article <151120210713426401%nospam@nospam.invalid>, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so >> at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass

    as i said, not always.

    try running up to the stage in a theatre during a performance.

    it's rare that getting close is an option, especially when raising the
    iso is easier and maintains perspective.

    for more common scenarios, such as portraits, sports, theatre and many others, it is not possible to get close, nor is it even desirable if it were.

    As I said, it is possible. I didn't say it is always an option.

    For portraits, however, a comparatively slow lens can easily have
    shallow depth of field at the closest focus distance if the lens is long enough. A 200mm f4 or a 300mm f4.5 aren't considered fast but they will definitely work for portraits if you get as close as the lens allows.

    those are a bit long for portraits, and getting close is not desirable
    because it changes perspective and creeps out the subject.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 15:42:11 2021
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4q0e.sq3.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    So you're saying one can't get shallow depth of field with close focus? >> >
    nope. i'm saying that it is not always possible.

    In fact, this is how the conversation went:

    Me: As I said, you can do it without fast glass

    You: as i said, not always.

    Then: you're simply wrong. very wrong.

    So how am I wrong? It's either possible or it isn't. I didn't say it
    was always possible, as you keep saying.

    you left out the full exchange:

    In article <151120210713426401%nospam@nospam.invalid>, nospam
    <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so >> > >> at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also
    annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass

    as i said, not always.

    try running up to the stage in a theatre during a performance.

    it's rare that getting close is an option, especially when raising the
    iso is easier and maintains perspective.

    Close with a 200mm or even a 135mm lens isn't all that close.

    for more common scenarios, such as portraits, sports, theatre and many
    others, it is not possible to get close, nor is it even desirable if it
    were.

    As I said, it is possible. I didn't say it is always an option.

    For portraits, however, a comparatively slow lens can easily have
    shallow depth of field at the closest focus distance if the lens is long
    enough. A 200mm f4 or a 300mm f4.5 aren't considered fast but they will
    definitely work for portraits if you get as close as the lens allows.

    those are a bit long for portraits, and getting close is not desirable because it changes perspective and creeps out the subject.

    I've seen lots of good portraits taken with 200 and 300mm lenses. 85mm
    seems to be the most popular to-day.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Whisky-dave@21:1/5 to nospam on Mon Nov 15 08:01:28 2021
    On Monday, 15 November 2021 at 12:13:48 UTC, nospam wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4ilk....@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus <u953...@gmail.com> wrote:

    Depends on whether you want to make use of shallow depth of focus for >> > artistic effect. Not that you necessarily have to pay big money for
    that, I have a TT Artisans manual lens for the Fuju-Xs just for that >> > reason.

    You *can* do that without fast glass

    yep, in software.

    Not the same.
    that depends on the software.
    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so
    at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass
    as i said, not always.

    try running up to the stage in a theatre during a performance.

    Not sure you're allowed to do that, or it would be a good reason to throw you out.
    Well in the UK you would be disturbing the performance and be escorted out.

    I tried my camera out at 25600 ISO it was a bit woolly, but not bad considering

    and your need to have the
    last word doesn't change that.
    it's not about having the last word.

    you're simply wrong. very wrong.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to u9536612@gmail.com on Mon Nov 15 11:44:21 2021
    In article <slrnsp4vuj.42n.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    I've seen lots of good portraits taken with 200 and 300mm lenses. 85mm
    seems to be the most popular to-day.

    85 is a bit short for full frame. it's ideal for dx.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From nospam@21:1/5 to Whisky-dave on Mon Nov 15 11:44:22 2021
    In article <d1228c24-1089-42a2-b9ff-3dc3930ea9d3n@googlegroups.com>, Whisky-dave <whisky.dave@gmail.com> wrote:

    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so >> at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass
    as i said, not always.

    try running up to the stage in a theatre during a performance.

    Not sure you're allowed to do that, or it would be a good reason to throw you out.
    Well in the UK you would be disturbing the performance and be escorted out.

    exactly the point.

    I tried my camera out at 25600 ISO it was a bit woolly, but not bad considering

    no need to go that high.

    iso 3200 and 6400 are very good, much better than iso 400 film.

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From geoff@21:1/5 to Incubus on Tue Nov 16 09:18:54 2021
    On 16/11/2021 12:53 am, Incubus wrote:
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4ctu.k07.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    The D800 has decent low light performance but
    nothing amazing.

    actually it's quite amazing, especially compared to film, which could
    only dream about high iso, resulting in the need for fast expensive
    glass.

    It's nothing amazing compared to newer cameras or cameras designed for
    high ISO performance. How does comparing it to obsolete techonology
    that enthusiasts use help?

    If you shoot action or indoor events, a faster lens is
    a must-have if you want clean images without motion blur.

    no it isn't.

    use auto-iso with a fast enough shutter speed.

    With a 28 - 300? Good luck with that. Maybe all the professionals
    using the 70 - 200 2.8, 85mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8 for sports and events have
    got it wrong and they should use a slow zoom lens at ISO 6400 or beyond.
    I'm sure their clients would love that.

    I am referring to a 'standard lens', for day-to-day general photography.

    That doesn't preclude me from using my 80-200/2.8 and my 50/1.4 for
    anything 'critical' and depth-of-field effects on occasions .

    geoff

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to geoff on Tue Nov 16 10:15:04 2021
    On 2021-11-15, geoff <geoff@nospamgeoffwood.org> wrote:
    On 16/11/2021 12:53 am, Incubus wrote:
    On 2021-11-15, nospam <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote:
    In article <slrnsp4ctu.k07.u9536612@localhost.localdomain>, Incubus
    <u9536612@gmail.com> wrote:

    The D800 has decent low light performance but
    nothing amazing.

    actually it's quite amazing, especially compared to film, which could
    only dream about high iso, resulting in the need for fast expensive
    glass.

    It's nothing amazing compared to newer cameras or cameras designed for
    high ISO performance. How does comparing it to obsolete techonology
    that enthusiasts use help?

    If you shoot action or indoor events, a faster lens is
    a must-have if you want clean images without motion blur.

    no it isn't.

    use auto-iso with a fast enough shutter speed.

    With a 28 - 300? Good luck with that. Maybe all the professionals
    using the 70 - 200 2.8, 85mm 1.8 and 50mm 1.8 for sports and events have
    got it wrong and they should use a slow zoom lens at ISO 6400 or beyond.
    I'm sure their clients would love that.

    I am referring to a 'standard lens', for day-to-day general photography.

    That doesn't preclude me from using my 80-200/2.8 and my 50/1.4 for
    anything 'critical' and depth-of-field effects on occasions .

    This was your original question:

    "Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall
    quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?"

    You didn't mention day-to-day photography, otherwise I would have
    restricted my answer to some types of distortion being difficult if not impossible to fix and shorter zooms/prime lenses resolving more detail
    and having more contrast.

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  • From Whisky-dave@21:1/5 to nospam on Tue Nov 16 05:13:56 2021
    On Monday, 15 November 2021 at 16:44:27 UTC, nospam wrote:
    In article <d1228c24-1089-42a2...@googlegroups.com>,
    Whisky-dave <whisk...@gmail.com> wrote:

    - long lenses as close as you can
    get will deliver that too. The 28 - 105 focuses incredibly closely so
    at 105 you'd think was shot at 2.8 or wider.

    that's not always possible, plus it changes perspective and may also annoy the subject and others nearby.

    As I said, you can do it without fast glass
    as i said, not always.

    try running up to the stage in a theatre during a performance.

    Not sure you're allowed to do that, or it would be a good reason to throw you
    out.
    Well in the UK you would be disturbing the performance and be escorted out.
    exactly the point.
    I tried my camera out at 25600 ISO it was a bit woolly, but not bad considering
    no need to go that high.

    There was , as the leaf shock in the wind and it was in shadow , I'd had prefered a slightly high shutter speed
    and a bit more DoF for other smaller insects I was trying to take photos of.

    The F16 versions was a bit too whoolly so I just kept this version.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/whiskydave/51625283461/


    iso 3200 and 6400 are very good, much better than iso 400 film.

    but sometimes not quite good enough.
    I wouldn't complian if I could get a decent ISO of a million+ or so. ;-)
    But I'd prefer an ISO of a billion+ :-), one day maybe .


    But geoff is right even though _I_ refer to this sort of thing as MY standard day to day photography
    with my camera whereas my standard day-day snaps are done with my iPhone7.
    Like pictures of a cats and people and standard stuff.

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  • From Alfred Molon@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 17 18:18:28 2021
    Am 16.11.2021 um 14:13 schrieb Whisky-dave:
    There was , as the leaf shock in the wind and it was in shadow , I'd had prefered a slightly high shutter speed
    and a bit more DoF for other smaller insects I was trying to take photos of.

    The F16 versions was a bit too whoolly so I just kept this version.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/whiskydave/51625283461/

    Hmmmm.... F4 wouldn't have had sufficient DOF?

    Alternatively, you could have used a flash.
    --
    Alfred Molon

    Olympus 4/3 and micro 4/3 cameras forum at
    https://groups.io/g/myolympus
    https://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site

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  • From RichA@21:1/5 to geoff on Wed Nov 17 16:44:22 2021
    On Sunday, 14 November 2021 at 01:19:14 UTC-5, geoff wrote:
    ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    geoff

    Worst aspect of most long zoom designs is the mushy long end. This also makes no sense because if you examine most people's
    images, they use a lens like that mostly for reach. The companies if possible should err on the side of focal length.

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  • From Alan Browne@21:1/5 to All on Wed Nov 17 20:07:21 2021

    Worst aspect of most long zoom designs is the mushy long end. This also makes no sense because if you examine most people's
    images, they use a lens like that mostly for reach. The companies if possible should err on the side of focal length.

    Someone posted many years ago that the majority of shots with zooms is
    not randomly distributed FL wise but full short or full long.

    Caused me to examine my habits and lo and behold he was not perfectly
    right, but truer than not.

    The higher the zoom ratio the harder it is to make the lens equally
    sharp end to end. Why holy trinity lenses have zoom ratios less than
    3:1 rather than the out there 4:1 of a 75:300.

    My 80-200 f/2.8 remains one of my favourite and sharpest lenses along
    with the 28-70 f/2.8. Of course my 135 f/1.8 and 100 f/2.8 macro are
    fantastic ffl's. Don't use the 20 or 50 much. Always wanted a nice 85
    f/ 1.4mm for portraiture but the 28-70 was "good 'nuff" or when there
    was room for it, the 100.

    Sold the 300 f/2.8 a long time ago. (Didn't use it enough).

    --
    "...there are many humorous things in this world; among them the white
    man's notion that he is less savage than the other savages."
    -Samuel Clemens

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  • From Incubus@21:1/5 to RichA on Thu Nov 18 10:00:31 2021
    On 2021-11-18, RichA <rander3128@gmail.com> wrote:
    On Sunday, 14 November 2021 at 01:19:14 UTC-5, geoff wrote:
    ... on my D800 is the Nikkor 28-300 f3.5~5.6.

    Give the high light-sensitivity (=ISO range, sort of), is there really
    much advantage these days in sacrificing convenience (and maybe a few
    types and degrees of distortions) for the potentially 'better' overall
    quality and low-light/high-speed light-performance of a smaller zoom
    range and/or faster lens ?

    And is there really much point in a fast lens these days anyway, in
    general use ?

    geoff

    Worst aspect of most long zoom designs is the mushy long end. This also makes no sense because if you examine most people's
    images, they use a lens like that mostly for reach. The companies if possible should err on the side of focal length.

    This is what Nikon did with the AF-P 70 - 300 4.5 - 5.6E. It's a
    remarkable lens - sharp wide open at every length with four stops of
    image stabilsation but definitely resolves more detail at 300mm than 70
    if you view at 100%. It has weather sealing as well.

    I paid about £200 less for it by buying a grey market import.

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  • From Whisky-dave@21:1/5 to Alfred Molon on Mon Nov 22 08:10:22 2021
    On Wednesday, 17 November 2021 at 17:18:34 UTC, Alfred Molon wrote:
    Am 16.11.2021 um 14:13 schrieb Whisky-dave:
    There was , as the leaf shock in the wind and it was in shadow , I'd had prefered a slightly high shutter speed
    and a bit more DoF for other smaller insects I was trying to take photos of.

    The F16 versions was a bit too whoolly so I just kept this version.

    https://www.flickr.com/photos/whiskydave/51625283461/
    Hmmmm.... F4 wouldn't have had sufficient DOF?

    Alternatively, you could have used a flash.
    --
    Alfred Molon

    Olympus 4/3 and micro 4/3 cameras forum at
    https://groups.io/g/myolympus
    https://myolympus.org/ photo sharing site


    Not very practical as I didn't have one.
    Also I don't like flashing at insects or anyone/thing else. :)

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