OK, I know this is a digital group, but I dare say the group wisdom here goes back a fair way to the days of film.
I have been given (long story - a late friend's estate) a number of cameras, mainly an Olympus and some Leicas. The OM-1 (yes, the original OM-1, so I'm guessing mid to late '70s) feels like it has film in it if I slowly tension the film rewind knob.
My late friend died about 20 years ago (estate only wound up after his wife passed away last year), so I'm wondering what the chances are of there being anything salvagable on the film. If there's anything there, I'd like to get it processed and pass it on to the family.
AFAIK, the camera was stored in a relatively cool place (well, cool for Australia, so say +/-18°C or 65°F).
Most of the local camera houses that dealt in film and processing seem to have disappeared and all we seem to be left with are office supply warehouses of the 'Bring in your SD card and we'll print it for you' type of thing.
In article <2b44aef7-ca14-41f0...@googlegroups.com>,
Magani <cds...@gmail.com> wrote:
OK, I know this is a digital group, but I dare say the group wisdom here goes
back a fair way to the days of film.
I have been given (long story - a late friend's estate) a number of cameras,there's film in it. rewind it fully and try to get it processed.
mainly an Olympus and some Leicas. The OM-1 (yes, the original OM-1, so I'm
guessing mid to late '70s) feels like it has film in it if I slowly tension
the film rewind knob.
My late friend died about 20 years ago (estate only wound up after his wifethere's a very good chance it's salvageable, although the colours will
passed away last year), so I'm wondering what the chances are of there being
anything salvagable on the film. If there's anything there, I'd like to get
it processed and pass it on to the family.
be way off.
if it's kodachrome, your only option is to have it processed as
black&white negatives by blue moon in portland oregon. as far as i
know, they're the only lab that does this:
<https://bluemooncamera.com/store/product/35BWK14/black-and-white-develo ping-of-35mm-k-14-film>
We use this process to produce a black and white negative from
Kodachrome films. We have a custom-tailored chemical process
based on recommendations provided by Kodak data sheets and
further optimized to mitigate the effects of aging and base fogging.
a quick check of their web site suggests they are a good choice
regardless of what type of film might be in it, as they claim to deal
with fading of older films.
AFAIK, the camera was stored in a relatively cool place (well, cool for Australia, so say +/-18蚓 or 65蚌).
that helps.
Most of the local camera houses that dealt in film and processing seem to have disappeared and all we seem to be left with are office supply warehousessearch for pro labs in your area. they still exist. or contact blue
of the 'Bring in your SD card and we'll print it for you' type of thing.
moon, although international shipping might be an issue.
On Saturday, 2 April 2022 at 10:28:09 am UTC+10, nospam wrote:
In article <2b44aef7-ca14-41f0...@googlegroups.com>,
Magani <cds...@gmail.com> wrote:
OK, I know this is a digital group, but I dare say the group wisdom here goesthere's film in it. rewind it fully and try to get it processed.
back a fair way to the days of film.
I have been given (long story - a late friend's estate) a number of cameras,
mainly an Olympus and some Leicas. The OM-1 (yes, the original OM-1, so I'm >>> guessing mid to late '70s) feels like it has film in it if I slowly tension >>> the film rewind knob.
My late friend died about 20 years ago (estate only wound up after his wife >>> passed away last year), so I'm wondering what the chances are of there beingthere's a very good chance it's salvageable, although the colours will
anything salvagable on the film. If there's anything there, I'd like to get >>> it processed and pass it on to the family.
be way off.
if it's kodachrome, your only option is to have it processed as
black&white negatives by blue moon in portland oregon. as far as i
know, they're the only lab that does this:
<https://bluemooncamera.com/store/product/35BWK14/black-and-white-develo
ping-of-35mm-k-14-film>
We use this process to produce a black and white negative from
Kodachrome films. We have a custom-tailored chemical process
based on recommendations provided by Kodak data sheets and
further optimized to mitigate the effects of aging and base fogging.
a quick check of their web site suggests they are a good choice
regardless of what type of film might be in it, as they claim to deal
with fading of older films.
AFAIK, the camera was stored in a relatively cool place (well, cool for
Australia, so say +/-18蚓 or 65蚌).
that helps.
Most of the local camera houses that dealt in film and processing seem to >>> have disappeared and all we seem to be left with are office supply warehousessearch for pro labs in your area. they still exist. or contact blue
of the 'Bring in your SD card and we'll print it for you' type of thing.
moon, although international shipping might be an issue.
Thanks, nospam.
A friend in a local camera club has pointed me in the direction of a local lab, so I'll talk to them next week.
Cheers,
Magani
On 4/3/22 2:11 AM, Magani wrote:
On Saturday, 2 April 2022 at 10:28:09 am UTC+10, nospam wrote:
In article <2b44aef7-ca14-41f0...@googlegroups.com>,
Magani <cds...@gmail.com> wrote:
OK, I know this is a digital group, but I dare say the group wisdom here goesthere's film in it. rewind it fully and try to get it processed.
back a fair way to the days of film.
I have been given (long story - a late friend's estate) a number of cameras,
mainly an Olympus and some Leicas. The OM-1 (yes, the original OM-1, so I'm
guessing mid to late '70s) feels like it has film in it if I slowly tension
the film rewind knob.
My late friend died about 20 years ago (estate only wound up after his wifethere's a very good chance it's salvageable, although the colours will
passed away last year), so I'm wondering what the chances are of there being
anything salvagable on the film. If there's anything there, I'd like to get
it processed and pass it on to the family.
be way off.
if it's kodachrome, your only option is to have it processed as
black&white negatives by blue moon in portland oregon. as far as i
know, they're the only lab that does this:
<https://bluemooncamera.com/store/product/35BWK14/black-and-white-develo >> ping-of-35mm-k-14-film>
We use this process to produce a black and white negative from
Kodachrome films. We have a custom-tailored chemical process
based on recommendations provided by Kodak data sheets and
further optimized to mitigate the effects of aging and base fogging.
a quick check of their web site suggests they are a good choice
regardless of what type of film might be in it, as they claim to deal
with fading of older films.
AFAIK, the camera was stored in a relatively cool place (well, cool for >>> Australia, so say +/-18蚓 or 65蚌).
that helps.
Most of the local camera houses that dealt in film and processing seem tomoon, although international shipping might be an issue.
have disappeared and all we seem to be left with are office supply warehouses
of the 'Bring in your SD card and we'll print it for you' type of thing. >> search for pro labs in your area. they still exist. or contact blue
Thanks, nospam.
A friend in a local camera club has pointed me in the direction of a local lab, so I'll talk to them next week.
Cheers,
Magani
If it is color print/negative film, look for "Process C-41" or "Process C-22" on the cassette. Process C-41 is current and shouldn't be a
problem. You could take the film to the local drug store or Walmart, if
you feel lucky! C-22 is older and will require specialty processing. DO
NOT take it to the local drug store or Walmart- it will destroy their chemistry and every roll that goes through the machine after it until
the chemicals are dumped and the machine cleaned!
If it is color slide film, look for "Process K-12", Process K-14",
Process E-4" or "Process E-6". E-6 is the current process, available at
any good lab- not the local drug store or Walmart; see above warning
about C-22! Process K-12 is old Kodachrome, K-14 is latest, but
discontinued Kodachrome, E-4 is old Ektachrome. Any of those older
processes will require a specialty processor. My recommendation is Film Rescue International. I have toured the facility and talked at length
with Greg Miller, the owner. He knows what he is doing.
For the sake of history, the last Kodachrome K-14 was run on December
30, 2010 at Dwayne's Photo in Parsons, Kansas, USA.
--
Ken Hart
kwh...@centurylink.net
On Monday, 4 April 2022 at 3:56:12 am UTC+10, Ken Hart wrote:
I've rewound it (I suspect it might only have 1 or 2 exposures taken as it was only a couple of turns). It's Kodak Gold III 100 12 exposure, so C-41. Who ever bought 12 exposures?
I had a trick: I would rewind the film carefully, just leaving a bit
showing, and store the roll with a paper stating which was the last
photo, then put a B/W roll on the machine.
Months later I could put back the half used colour roll, and with the
lid put on the lenses I would shoot the same number of blanks, then one
or two more for safety, and then start using the roll again.
The danger was that the lab might not notice and cut the film at the
middle of a photo.
In article <tftqhi-...@Telcontar.valinor>, Carlos E.R.
<robin_...@es.invalid> wrote:
I had a trick: I would rewind the film carefully, just leaving a bit showing, and store the roll with a paper stating which was the last
photo, then put a B/W roll on the machine.
Months later I could put back the half used colour roll, and with thethat was a common trick to switch between different types of film, such
lid put on the lenses I would shoot the same number of blanks, then one
or two more for safety, and then start using the roll again.
as colour/b&w, daylight/tungsten, slide/print, fast/slow, etc.
some photographers carried more than one camera, with different film in
each to avoid switching. it was both expensive and primitive,
plus the
photos were out of order.
none of that is needed with digital. each photo can have completely
different settings and/or adjusted later afterwards, even if the camera
was incorrectly set when taking the photo.
The danger was that the lab might not notice and cut the film at thetrue, but rare.
middle of a photo.
...
some photographers carried more than one camera, with different film in
each to avoid switching. it was both expensive and primitive, plus the
photos were out of order.
On Monday, 4 April 2022 at 22:10:14 UTC+1, nospam wrote:
In article <tftqhi-...@Telcontar.valinor>, Carlos E.R.
<robin_...@es.invalid> wrote:
none of that is needed with digital. each photo can have completely
different settings and/or adjusted later afterwards, even if the camera
was incorrectly set when taking the photo.
And of course no one needs more than one camera do you ;-)
The danger was that the lab might not notice and cut the film at thetrue, but rare.
middle of a photo.
My biggest problem was remembring just how many shots I'd taken so I could 'wind on'
that number , did get some interesting double exposure due to it though.
some photographers carried more than one camera, with different film in each to avoid switching. it was both expensive and primitive,
Never found it particually expensive as I used to shoot both colour slide film
and black & white aka monochrome. Much more convenient than keep swaping film in and out,
less likely to scratch the film or fog it too.
Sometimes I'd even have 3 cameras
plus the
photos were out of order.
Mine never were, not sure how that would happen.
And of course no one needs more than one camera do you ;-)
My biggest problem was remembring just how many shots I'd taken so I could 'wind on'
that number , did get some interesting double exposure due to it though.
some photographers carried more than one camera, with different film in each to avoid switching. it was both expensive and primitive, plus the photos were out of order.
I've done this with digital systems; found that what's important to do is
to get each body's internal clocks synchronized very well between them.
Likewise, if one travels, its also important to doublecheck each body for just what time zone it is set to.
Some DAMs allow you to fix timestamps in post, but its much more straightforward to prevent the problem in the first place than to have
to work out how to fix it later.
-hh wrote:
some photographers carried more than one camera, with different film in each to avoid switching. it was both expensive and primitive, plus the photos were out of order.
I've done this with digital systems; found that what's important to do is to get each body's internal clocks synchronized very well between them.
that's not that critical. a few seconds one way or another isn't going
to matter.
Likewise, if one travels, its also important to doublecheck each body
for just what time zone it is set to.
set it to gmt. problem solved.
Some DAMs allow you to fix timestamps in post, but its much more straightforward to prevent the problem in the first place than to have
to work out how to fix it later.
the only way to prevent it is use gmt.
In article <03949e9d-c778-4caf-ba10-5a1e830faa68n@googlegroups.com>,
-hh <recscuba_google@huntzinger.com> wrote:
Likewise, if one travels, its also important to doublecheck each body for
just what time zone it is set to.
set it to gmt. problem solved.
Some DAMs allow you to fix timestamps in post, but its much more
straightforward to prevent the problem in the first place than to have
to work out how to fix it later.
the only way to prevent it is use gmt.
In article <24a39d7c-2864-4be5-9f50-5e54014b5823n@googlegroups.com>, Whisky-dave <whisky.dave@gmail.com> wrote:
And of course no one needs more than one camera do you ;-)
not anymore, except for pros who carry a backup camera, which usually
always sits idle because digital cameras are *far* more reliable than
film cameras.
In article <03949e9d-c778-4caf...@googlegroups.com>,
-hh <recscub...@huntzinger.com> wrote:
some photographers carried more than one camera, with different film in each to avoid switching. it was both expensive and primitive, plus the photos were out of order.
I've done this with digital systems; found that what's important to do is to get each body's internal clocks synchronized very well between them.that's not that critical. a few seconds one way or another isn't going
to matter.
Likewise, if one travels, its also important to doublecheck each body for just what time zone it is set to.set it to gmt. problem solved.
Some DAMs allow you to fix timestamps in post, but its much more straightforward to prevent the problem in the first place than to havethe only way to prevent it is use gmt.
to work out how to fix it later.
On 2022-04-05 14:05, Whisky-dave wrote:
On Monday, 4 April 2022 at 22:10:14 UTC+1, nospam wrote:...
In article <tftqhi-...@Telcontar.valinor>, Carlos E.R.
<robin_...@es.invalid> wrote:
none of that is needed with digital. each photo can have completely
different settings and/or adjusted later afterwards, even if the camera
was incorrectly set when taking the photo.
And of course no one needs more than one camera do you ;-)
Happened to me.The danger was that the lab might not notice and cut the film at thetrue, but rare.
middle of a photo.
My biggest problem was remembring just how many shots I'd taken so I could 'wind on'I wrote that in a paper inside the plastic tube holding the film
that number , did get some interesting double exposure due to it though.
cartridge. So didn't have that problem.
--
Cheers, Carlos.
| Sysop: | Keyop |
|---|---|
| Location: | Huddersfield, West Yorkshire, UK |
| Users: | 361 |
| Nodes: | 16 (2 / 14) |
| Uptime: | 82:12:07 |
| Calls: | 7,713 |
| Files: | 12,854 |
| Messages: | 5,723,783 |