On Friday, October 27, 1995 at 12:00:00 AM UTC-7, N1DDZ RJC wrote:

Subj: HOW TO: Graphic to Graflok conversion
Date: 95-10-22 19:07:04 EDT
From: N1DDZ RJC
To: Exakta

Steve,

You asked how to replace the old Graphic back on a Series D 2X3 with a
more
modern Graflok back. Here's how.......

well,

I've never done a 2X3 before, but assuming the Graflok assembly is similar
to
the 4X5 I did just a coupel of weeks ago, the steps are as follows:

1. Cut the mounting ears off the back assembly (frame) with a bandsaw to
the
same dimension, minus the thickness of the brass frame material, as your Series B or D frame.

In the 4X5, you cut off the top and bottom ears, and about 1/8" of the
left
part of the frame. The 2X3 could be similar.

2. Remove the old wood strips from the Series B or D frame after removing the
frame from the camera. Save the screws for something else later.

3.. Remove all the felt and velvet from the filmholder side, but not from
the
side that bears against the revolving plate - leave that alone!

4. With a nibbler, cut off the right hand edge of the brass frame so that the right hand side of the Graflok frame will sit flat against the inner
part
of the brass frame. File down any you miss with the nibbler. The nibbler
is
a gadget sold by Radio Shack and is very handy for removing sheet metal - especially brass which it cuts easily.

5. With the Graflok frame in place in the brass frame, center the two by either filing the edges or removing one of the brass lips (better to file
and
neatly fit it into the frame than butcher the brass)

6. Make sure that the two pieces sit flat and centered with one another. Clean corresponding edges of any residual glue, gunk or felt material and then clean it again. Lightly sand both surfaces with sandpaper and clean.

7. To attach the two pieces - this is the best way and the easiest to accomplish correctly - please don't write me and say this is sacriledge - Apply GOOP Mfg. by Eclectic Products, Inc., Carson Ca very carefully to
the
back of the Graflok frame. Don't use so much that the GOOP slops over
into
the revolving part when you press the two together.

8. Put a weight on the two pieces and go away for two days. Don't touch it.

9. The GOOP is a super tacky adhesive (tack is a good quality for an adhesive) and when dried tends to pull the pieces together. You cannot remove the two units now unless you soak them in a bath of suitable
solvent
such as methylene chloride (dangerous, don't do it).

10. Now the new back is ready to take the ground glass insert. Don't
forget
to measure that small extra distance back that the new film plane is
relative
to the old, and shim up your reflex viewer ground glass accordingly.
(this
is a task that takes longer than the above instructions to mount the new
back
I have found, details at a later date)

11. Remount the back making sure that the flat herad screws go under the revolving part and the round ones at the side of the camera body.

I'd look for light leaks after doing this, and fill in any voids around
the
cut Graflok back with putty or even epoxy, then paint the edges black.
Let
me know if you are going to do this and we can get some diminsions
straight
before you start. It's really easy to do and it turns an otherwise
marginal
artifact into a very handy camera.

Please post this email to the newsgroup - I am having access troubles with AOL again today.

Bob Crowley
AMBIT Corp
Wayland MA

Bob Crowley, Staff Inventor
AMBIT Corporation,
Wayland MA

Do you know who is following WD Service since the gentleman died in 2012? I have a Super D that needs its shutter CLA'd
George Clarke 925-984-3785

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