Air is same? Air increases in volume as it mooves nitrogen keeps same volume as temp increaces....
Nitrogen from a tank has no oxygen or water vapor, both of which react with metals and elastomers in your shock.
On Sat, 1 Aug 2020 10:19:29 -0700 (PDT), sturd.virtec@gmail.com wrote:
Nitrogen from a tank has no oxygen or water vapor, both of which react with metals and elastomers in your shock.
And water vapor increases the expansion as it gets hot, making things worse.
I just rebuilt a Works Pro Racer shock that I've been running for over 20 years.
Parts to rebuild it were dirt cheap online and the rebuild process was simple.
It's just a seal, a few o-rings, and a rubber bladder that looks like an industrial condom. The eBay seller was out of California, was most helpful on
the phone in making sure I got the right kit for my antique shock. I left feedback on his site saying that it fits the Pro Racer since his description didn't specifically mention it. Apparently most Works (and later Worx) shocks
use one of two different kits, the only difference being the diameter of the shock rod. There are apparently two different sized bladders and luckily he stocked the one I needed.
The only thing I couldn't do for myself was the nitrogen because that requires a
nitrogen tank, a regulator that will go up to 250 pounds, and a zero loss chuck
assembly. None of that stuff is cheap and that's why they charge you $30 for that tiny puff of nitrogen.
Welding shops will have the nitrogen, usually, and they may even have the regulator, but they won't the zero-loss chuck. Tire shops that offer nitrogen
for tires will have it all except the chuck. You can buy your own chuck for about $50 and then all you have to do is find someone who is willing to connect
their nitrogen source to your regulator. Or you can pay $30 a shot from someone
who has all the stuff. Buying a nitrogen cylinder to charge one or two shocks
is the equivalent of buying a swimming pool to get a cup of water.
Whatever you do, DO NOT check your nitrogen pressure with a common tire gauge.
The volume of nitrogen in most shocks is so tiny that checking it a time or two
with a common gauge will let most of it out and if you weren't low before you checked, you will be after you do check.
I have a family member who builds off-road dune buggies and he had all the recharge stuff.
--
Futility Man
On 8/4/2020 8:56 AM, Futility Man wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2020 10:19:29 -0700 (PDT), sturd.virtec@gmail.com wrote:
Nitrogen from a tank has no oxygen or water vapor, both of which react with metals and elastomers in your shock.
And water vapor increases the expansion as it gets hot, making things worse.
I just rebuilt a Works Pro Racer shock that I've been running for over 20 years.
Parts to rebuild it were dirt cheap online and the rebuild process was simple.
It's just a seal, a few o-rings, and a rubber bladder that looks like an industrial condom. The eBay seller was out of California, was most helpful on
the phone in making sure I got the right kit for my antique shock. I left feedback on his site saying that it fits the Pro Racer since his description
didn't specifically mention it. Apparently most Works (and later Worx) shocks
use one of two different kits, the only difference being the diameter of the
shock rod. There are apparently two different sized bladders and luckily he
stocked the one I needed.
The only thing I couldn't do for myself was the nitrogen because that requires a
nitrogen tank, a regulator that will go up to 250 pounds, and a zero loss chuck
assembly. None of that stuff is cheap and that's why they charge you $30 for
that tiny puff of nitrogen.
Welding shops will have the nitrogen, usually, and they may even have the regulator, but they won't the zero-loss chuck. Tire shops that offer nitrogen
for tires will have it all except the chuck. You can buy your own chuck for
about $50 and then all you have to do is find someone who is willing to connect
their nitrogen source to your regulator. Or you can pay $30 a shot from someone
who has all the stuff. Buying a nitrogen cylinder to charge one or two shocks
is the equivalent of buying a swimming pool to get a cup of water.
Whatever you do, DO NOT check your nitrogen pressure with a common tire gauge.
The volume of nitrogen in most shocks is so tiny that checking it a time or two
with a common gauge will let most of it out and if you weren't low before you
checked, you will be after you do check.
I have a family member who builds off-road dune buggies and he had all the recharge stuff.
--
Futility Man
Some of our containers for the industrial chemical industry require a
dry nitrogen blanket <-60deg c dew point> before we ship them to the
chemical plants.... our method is to pressurize then vent-purge to a few
psi. replete 3 times. this gets us to a dry nitrogen state quickly.
purging 3 times is pretty much industry standard to get most of the air
out. some folks go 5-10 times if the product is really persnickety about contamination. for a shock i'd just fill & burp, fill & burp, fill to
desired psi.
john
gasgas ec250
On Tuesday, August 4, 2020 at 11:12:25 AM UTC-4, john wrote:
On 8/4/2020 8:56 AM, Futility Man wrote:
On Sat, 1 Aug 2020 10:19:29 -0700 (PDT), sturd.virtec@gmail.com wrote:
Nitrogen from a tank has no oxygen or water vapor, both of which react with metals and elastomers in your shock.
And water vapor increases the expansion as it gets hot, making things worse.
I just rebuilt a Works Pro Racer shock that I've been running for over 20 years.
Parts to rebuild it were dirt cheap online and the rebuild process was simple.
It's just a seal, a few o-rings, and a rubber bladder that looks like an >>> industrial condom. The eBay seller was out of California, was most helpful on
the phone in making sure I got the right kit for my antique shock. I left >>> feedback on his site saying that it fits the Pro Racer since his description
didn't specifically mention it. Apparently most Works (and later Worx) shocks
use one of two different kits, the only difference being the diameter of the
shock rod. There are apparently two different sized bladders and luckily he
stocked the one I needed.
The only thing I couldn't do for myself was the nitrogen because that requires a
nitrogen tank, a regulator that will go up to 250 pounds, and a zero loss chuck
assembly. None of that stuff is cheap and that's why they charge you $30 for
that tiny puff of nitrogen.
Welding shops will have the nitrogen, usually, and they may even have the >>> regulator, but they won't the zero-loss chuck. Tire shops that offer nitrogen
for tires will have it all except the chuck. You can buy your own chuck for
about $50 and then all you have to do is find someone who is willing to connect
their nitrogen source to your regulator. Or you can pay $30 a shot from someone
who has all the stuff. Buying a nitrogen cylinder to charge one or two shocks
is the equivalent of buying a swimming pool to get a cup of water.
Whatever you do, DO NOT check your nitrogen pressure with a common tire gauge.
The volume of nitrogen in most shocks is so tiny that checking it a time or two
with a common gauge will let most of it out and if you weren't low before you
checked, you will be after you do check.
I have a family member who builds off-road dune buggies and he had all the >>> recharge stuff.
--
Futility Man
Some of our containers for the industrial chemical industry require a
dry nitrogen blanket <-60deg c dew point> before we ship them to the
chemical plants.... our method is to pressurize then vent-purge to a few
psi. replete 3 times. this gets us to a dry nitrogen state quickly.
purging 3 times is pretty much industry standard to get most of the air
out. some folks go 5-10 times if the product is really persnickety about
contamination. for a shock i'd just fill & burp, fill & burp, fill to
desired psi.
john
gasgas ec250
Now if you had some liquid nitrogen you could just squirt in a little, common in the food packaging industry.
Doesn't store for long as a liquid though!
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