• No till organic

    From Frank Miles@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 5 03:45:03 2021
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden 'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F

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  • From Bob F@21:1/5 to Frank Miles on Thu Mar 4 20:23:20 2021
    On 3/4/2021 7:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden 'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.


    I just pull them as soon as I see them, and never let them go to seed.

    If you are starting from lawn, use a sod cutter to remove all the grass,
    and you can end up with a fairly weed free bed.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to Frank Miles on Thu Mar 4 22:39:04 2021
    On 3/4/2021 9:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden 'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F


    The secret is MULCH . Cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper will
    stop the weeds from reaching the sunlight . Heavy layers of straw will
    do the same , plus will enrich and lighten your soil as it decomposes .
    See if you can buy or borrow (your library may have it) a copy of the
    Ruth Stout gardening book . Here's a link : https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/ruth-stouts-system-zmaz04fmzsel
    You can also use a barrier fabric or plastic sheeting, but that
    contributes nothing to your soil . You might also want to check out non-chemical pest controls - bacillus thurigensis , diatomaceous earth
    , and beneficial nematodes will all be a part of my arsenal this year .
    FWIW , I use only heirloom varieties of seed and that makes
    pest and weed control more work . But worth it IMO in the end for stuff
    that breeds true and can be relied on to produce the same results year
    after year . The only seeds I've bought this year was a package of
    yellow squash , and only because my saved seed didn't germinate . It was
    old ...
    --
    Snag
    In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns.
    We shot them

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  • From hubops@ccanoemail.ca@21:1/5 to Snag on Fri Mar 5 08:21:20 2021
    On Thu, 4 Mar 2021 22:39:04 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 3/4/2021 9:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F


    The secret is MULCH . Cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper will
    stop the weeds from reaching the sunlight . Heavy layers of straw will
    do the same , plus will enrich and lighten your soil as it decomposes .
    See if you can buy or borrow (your library may have it) a copy of the
    Ruth Stout gardening book . Here's a link : >https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/ruth-stouts-system-zmaz04fmzsel
    You can also use a barrier fabric or plastic sheeting, but that
    contributes nothing to your soil . You might also want to check out >non-chemical pest controls - bacillus thurigensis , diatomaceous earth
    , and beneficial nematodes will all be a part of my arsenal this year .
    FWIW , I use only heirloom varieties of seed and that makes
    pest and weed control more work . But worth it IMO in the end for stuff
    that breeds true and can be relied on to produce the same results year
    after year . The only seeds I've bought this year was a package of
    yellow squash , and only because my saved seed didn't germinate . It was
    old ...


    I first thought that the glue and ink and residual chemicals of
    the paper-making paper-recycling process would render corrugated
    cardboard " not suitably organic " but a google search seems
    to prove me wrong ... < ? > Happy mulching !
    John T.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to hubops@ccanoemail.ca on Fri Mar 5 13:39:46 2021
    On 3/5/2021 7:21 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
    On Thu, 4 Mar 2021 22:39:04 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 3/4/2021 9:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F


    The secret is MULCH . Cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper will
    stop the weeds from reaching the sunlight . Heavy layers of straw will
    do the same , plus will enrich and lighten your soil as it decomposes .
    See if you can buy or borrow (your library may have it) a copy of the
    Ruth Stout gardening book . Here's a link :
    https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/ruth-stouts-system-zmaz04fmzsel
    You can also use a barrier fabric or plastic sheeting, but that
    contributes nothing to your soil . You might also want to check out
    non-chemical pest controls - bacillus thurigensis , diatomaceous earth
    , and beneficial nematodes will all be a part of my arsenal this year .
    FWIW , I use only heirloom varieties of seed and that makes
    pest and weed control more work . But worth it IMO in the end for stuff
    that breeds true and can be relied on to produce the same results year
    after year . The only seeds I've bought this year was a package of
    yellow squash , and only because my saved seed didn't germinate . It was
    old ...


    I first thought that the glue and ink and residual chemicals of
    the paper-making paper-recycling process would render corrugated
    cardboard " not suitably organic " but a google search seems
    to prove me wrong ... < ? > Happy mulching !
    John T.


    I use cages made of concrete reinforcing wire (about 24"diameter and
    5 feet tall) for my tomatoes . I lay of pieces of cardboard on the
    ground around the plants stem before I place the cages . Viola (yeah
    yeah) no weeds inside the cage to pull . I generally use either wheat or
    rice straw between cages .
    --
    Snag
    In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns.
    We shot them

    --- SoupGate-Win32 v1.05
    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From hubops@ccanoemail.ca@21:1/5 to Snag on Fri Mar 5 15:13:41 2021
    On Fri, 5 Mar 2021 13:39:46 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 3/5/2021 7:21 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
    On Thu, 4 Mar 2021 22:39:04 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 3/4/2021 9:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F


    The secret is MULCH . Cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper will
    stop the weeds from reaching the sunlight . Heavy layers of straw will
    do the same , plus will enrich and lighten your soil as it decomposes .
    See if you can buy or borrow (your library may have it) a copy of the
    Ruth Stout gardening book . Here's a link :
    https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/ruth-stouts-system-zmaz04fmzsel
    You can also use a barrier fabric or plastic sheeting, but that
    contributes nothing to your soil . You might also want to check out
    non-chemical pest controls - bacillus thurigensis , diatomaceous earth
    , and beneficial nematodes will all be a part of my arsenal this year .
    FWIW , I use only heirloom varieties of seed and that makes
    pest and weed control more work . But worth it IMO in the end for stuff
    that breeds true and can be relied on to produce the same results year
    after year . The only seeds I've bought this year was a package of
    yellow squash , and only because my saved seed didn't germinate . It was >>> old ...


    I first thought that the glue and ink and residual chemicals of
    the paper-making paper-recycling process would render corrugated
    cardboard " not suitably organic " but a google search seems
    to prove me wrong ... < ? > Happy mulching !
    John T.


    I use cages made of concrete reinforcing wire (about 24"diameter and
    5 feet tall) for my tomatoes . I lay of pieces of cardboard on the
    ground around the plants stem before I place the cages . Viola (yeah
    yeah) no weeds inside the cage to pull . I generally use either wheat or
    rice straw between cages .


    Watering ? ... doesn't the cardboard shed the water somewhat ?
    John T.

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  • From Ralph Mowery@21:1/5 to All on Fri Mar 5 18:03:44 2021
    In article <s1u1eq$ltn$1@dont-email.me>, Snag_one@msn.com says...

    I use cages made of concrete reinforcing wire (about 24"diameter and
    5 feet tall) for my tomatoes . I lay of pieces of cardboard on the
    ground around the plants stem before I place the cages . Viola (yeah
    yeah) no weeds inside the cage to pull . I generally use either wheat or
    rice straw between cages .



    The cardboard sounds like a good it for me to try this year. I do use
    similar cages made out of the reinforcing wire.

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  • From Snag@21:1/5 to hubops@ccanoemail.ca on Fri Mar 5 16:16:45 2021
    On 3/5/2021 2:13 PM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
    On Fri, 5 Mar 2021 13:39:46 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 3/5/2021 7:21 AM, hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
    On Thu, 4 Mar 2021 22:39:04 -0600, Snag <Snag_one@msn.com> wrote:

    On 3/4/2021 9:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F


    The secret is MULCH . Cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper will
    stop the weeds from reaching the sunlight . Heavy layers of straw will >>>> do the same , plus will enrich and lighten your soil as it decomposes . >>>> See if you can buy or borrow (your library may have it) a copy of the
    Ruth Stout gardening book . Here's a link :
    https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/ruth-stouts-system-zmaz04fmzsel
    You can also use a barrier fabric or plastic sheeting, but that
    contributes nothing to your soil . You might also want to check out
    non-chemical pest controls - bacillus thurigensis , diatomaceous earth >>>> , and beneficial nematodes will all be a part of my arsenal this year . >>>> FWIW , I use only heirloom varieties of seed and that makes
    pest and weed control more work . But worth it IMO in the end for stuff >>>> that breeds true and can be relied on to produce the same results year >>>> after year . The only seeds I've bought this year was a package of
    yellow squash , and only because my saved seed didn't germinate . It was >>>> old ...


    I first thought that the glue and ink and residual chemicals of
    the paper-making paper-recycling process would render corrugated
    cardboard " not suitably organic " but a google search seems
    to prove me wrong ... < ? > Happy mulching !
    John T.


    I use cages made of concrete reinforcing wire (about 24"diameter and
    5 feet tall) for my tomatoes . I lay of pieces of cardboard on the
    ground around the plants stem before I place the cages . Viola (yeah
    yeah) no weeds inside the cage to pull . I generally use either wheat or
    rice straw between cages .


    Watering ? ... doesn't the cardboard shed the water somewhat ?
    John T.


    It does a little . But the straw around it doesn't , and both help a
    lot to prevent moisture loss from evaporation . The soil is usually
    moist unless we're in a drought .
    --
    Snag
    In 1775, the British demanded we give them our guns.
    We shot them

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    * Origin: fsxNet Usenet Gateway (21:1/5)
  • From Frank Miles@21:1/5 to Bob F on Fri Mar 5 23:50:37 2021
    On Thu, 04 Mar 2021 20:23:20 -0800, Bob F wrote:

    On 3/4/2021 7:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.


    I just pull them as soon as I see them, and never let them go to seed.

    If you are starting from lawn, use a sod cutter to remove all the grass,
    and you can end up with a fairly weed free bed.

    I _try_ to do that, but with ~1000 sq ft of garden it's easy to miss the
    small ones. By now (30+ years) the selection pressure has led to the
    smallest, fastest, most prolific weeds :(

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  • From Frank Miles@21:1/5 to Snag on Sat Mar 6 00:18:34 2021
    On Thu, 04 Mar 2021 22:39:04 -0600, Snag wrote:

    On 3/4/2021 9:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F


    The secret is MULCH . Cardboard or multiple layers of newspaper will
    stop the weeds from reaching the sunlight . Heavy layers of straw will
    do the same , plus will enrich and lighten your soil as it decomposes .
    See if you can buy or borrow (your library may have it) a copy of the
    Ruth Stout gardening book . Here's a link : https://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/ruth-stouts-system-zmaz04fmzsel
    You can also use a barrier fabric or plastic sheeting, but that contributes nothing to your soil . You might also want to check out non-chemical pest controls - bacillus thurigensis , diatomaceous earth
    , and beneficial nematodes will all be a part of my arsenal this year .
    FWIW , I use only heirloom varieties of seed and that makes
    pest and weed control more work . But worth it IMO in the end for stuff
    that breeds true and can be relied on to produce the same results year
    after year . The only seeds I've bought this year was a package of
    yellow squash , and only because my saved seed didn't germinate . It was
    old ...

    We have her book. It's great! Our copy was printed 1971 (paper is yellowing). We mulch as we can, limited by [a] the slugs and snails that *love* the
    mild damp environment mulch fosters (diatomaceous earth only being
    partly useful in the Pacific NW due to rain); and [b] our limited supply of mulch material.

    It's especially a problem with overwintering crops, with lots of rain.
    There's a difficult transition as the last of the real crops are removed,
    and the overwintering seed is put in the ground. This fall/winter has
    been even more challenging as we've had wild rabbits going after the vetch, small-seed favas, and some other overwintering plants (they love the
    fresh new greens!). This leaves the ground more exposed than usual.
    The weeds I'm getting are small but so numerous!

    Once the edibles are established in the spring - and especially after
    the rains fade into the usual dry summer, weeds are not such a problem.

    We save seed for corn, peas, edamame(soy), beans, scallions, one of our
    tomato varieties, and intermittently some others. It all depends on
    how long it takes to produce viable seed, and whether the varieties
    exist that we like. For example - do you grow carrots? As a biennial
    that's gotta take a lot of extra space, right? We've lately given up
    on buying corn seed in part because we like the old style non-sugary
    corn, and can't find the really early varieties we've enjoyed in the past.
    Our short growing season limits our choices...

    Thanks for the ideas!
    -F

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  • From songbird@21:1/5 to Frank Miles on Fri Mar 5 20:57:40 2021
    Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden 'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.

    Thanks for any tips!
    -F

    stirrup hoe, good control of the area around the garden. like
    a deep enough edge to prevent weeds from intruding underneath
    and a wide enough pathway around to keep a lot of things from
    flopping over and dropping seeds in.

    note that this doesn't prevent all weeds and it will take
    several years to get rid of the seed bank in any newly
    cultivated garden, but after several years it does get
    easier once you understand how it goes.

    we keep about an acre of gardens here with using the
    stirrup hoes and no-till or low-till organic techniques.

    but you have to use the hoe, it goes quick to just
    skim the surface. closer work near the garden plants
    may need to be done by hand or i use a large steak
    knife with a wooden handle or a small mason trowel.
    the sooner you get the weeds the easier it is.

    as summer gets on the garden plants get bigger and
    crowd out more weeds from sprouting as easily but again
    you cannot let things go. just work on a schedule and
    go through all gardens in rotation.

    i keep things as simple as i can here, but we have
    a lot of decorations and small gardens that are more
    work too. so if you can plant a bigger area it is much
    easier with fewer edges and obstacles. i also plant
    the pathways once i'm done planting the bigger plots
    if i have space for something. i'd rather grow some-
    thing in a space than leave it bare.

    green manure and cover crop as much as you can.
    peas and beans are yum. :)


    songbird

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  • From songbird@21:1/5 to Bob F on Fri Mar 5 21:01:32 2021
    Bob F wrote:
    On 3/4/2021 7:45 PM, Frank Miles wrote:
    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden
    'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ? That is, without
    spending all your time manually pulling them? And with limited
    space I can't solarize without losing a year.


    I just pull them as soon as I see them, and never let them go to seed.

    If you are starting from lawn, use a sod cutter to remove all the grass,
    and you can end up with a fairly weed free bed.

    except that sod has a huge nutritional value,
    what i do is dig a deep enough hole and bury it
    so the worms eat it up. a layer of cardboard
    or newspapers over the sod will help keep a lot
    of the roots from coming back up. just do it
    again if a second or third time is needed. i've
    had some gardens where i've skimmed and buried
    them a few times just because i had injuries and
    could not keep all the gardens clear. so they
    were allowed to go to weeds and then got cleared
    again. the worms love it all when you can bury
    it. don't waste it.

    if you get a seedy plant that has dropped a lot
    of seeds on the surface, again, dig a hole and
    then scrape all the surface area in the hole and
    bury it again. if you put it down deep enough
    and don't disturb that area again for years then
    the worms may take care of those weed seeds or
    not, but if you keep after it with the stirrup
    hoe they won't be a major issue again.


    songbird

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  • From songbird@21:1/5 to hubops@ccanoemail.ca on Fri Mar 5 21:06:23 2021
    hubops@ccanoemail.ca wrote:
    ...
    I first thought that the glue and ink and residual chemicals of
    the paper-making paper-recycling process would render corrugated
    cardboard " not suitably organic " but a google search seems
    to prove me wrong ... < ? > Happy mulching !

    avoid any of the colored and shiny cardboards as they may
    have plastic coating on them. just use the plainest cardboards
    you can find with black ink. remove any tape or labels that
    might also be plastic coated. otherwise worms love it and
    chew it up eventually. also it is easy to redo if the card-
    board gets chewed up, just scrape the mulch back and put it
    down and then move the mulch back on. works great. i've
    done that for smothering some tough areas of weeds and
    grasses.


    songbird

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  • From songbird@21:1/5 to Frank Miles on Fri Mar 5 21:02:21 2021
    Frank Miles wrote:
    ...
    I _try_ to do that, but with ~1000 sq ft of garden it's easy to miss the small ones. By now (30+ years) the selection pressure has led to the smallest, fastest, most prolific weeds :(

    cover crops with more rotational planting might help
    with that.


    songbird

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  • From songbird@21:1/5 to Frank Miles on Fri Mar 5 21:03:29 2021
    Frank Miles wrote:
    ...
    I _try_ to do that, but with ~1000 sq ft of garden it's easy to miss the small ones. By now (30+ years) the selection pressure has led to the smallest, fastest, most prolific weeds :(

    oh and the other thing about smaller weeds, they might
    be ok to just leave alone since they don't grow tall
    enough to outcompete the garden plants. some things do
    ok interplanted like that. not sure what specific weeds
    you might be up against though. :)


    songbird

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  • From songbird@21:1/5 to Ralph Mowery on Fri Mar 5 21:07:46 2021
    Ralph Mowery wrote:
    ...
    The cardboard sounds like a good it for me to try this year. I do use similar cages made out of the reinforcing wire.

    it's good for smothering problem areas and such but
    i don't use it in all the gardens because it is in the
    way if i want to do rotational planting in different
    areas (which i do in all my vegetable gardens).


    songbird

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  • From derald@invalid.com@21:1/5 to Frank Miles on Fri Mar 5 21:58:41 2021
    Frank Miles <pedicularis@mail.com> wrote:

    What's the magic trick to dealing with weeds if you want to garden >'organically' _and_ are trying to go 'no-till' ?
    mulch, and lots of it.
    --
    Derald
    Peninsular FL, USA
    USDA 9b

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